General
Topo pf north side of Piz Palü and surrounding mountains. Credit:
Ari Paulin, Shot on
2015-09-15 Photo taken in
Pontresina, Graubünden, Switzerland.Licensed under:
Public Domain.
Most grading systems used to grade alpine climbs try to combine a bunch of factors affecting the seriousness and difficulty of a climb into one grade. This is a very difficult task as climbs to be found in an alpine setting come in widest range of flavours. To make things even more difficult, conditions can greatly affect the difficulty and/or seriousness of a given route between (and within) seasons. When choosing an alpine route, make sure to have enough reserves in terms of technical difficulty.
Aforementioned complexity of the factors makes grading a difficult task. Unfortunately it also makes it somewhat subjective, so beware of surprises. If you read several guidebooks, you'll propably find out, that a certain route might have slightly different grade in different books.
Character of alpine climbing
On mountains climbers are faced with varied conditions and often several types of climbing are encountered. Usually this means that while properly geared up climbers are sufficiently equipped for most foreseeable challenges, they seldom are ideally equipped for any type of climbing. Heavier clothing, footwear and perhaps most notably a backpack all limit technical ability. Climbers also typically must face the challenges when already feeling tired due the physical effort of the approach and climb itself, altitude etc.
In the mountains climbing mostly takes place with no previous knowledge of the route. Furthermore, while some mountain routes are equipped with bolts and other fixed gear, mostly climbers are to place protection themselves. This is made more difficult because limited size of rack and often less than perfect quality of rock and snow/ice. On moderately difficult snow and ice realiable protection is often especially difficult to arrange. While deadmen and snow stakes offer satisfactory protection on consolidated snow, they are often too consuming to place on the whole length of the route. Besides, due to greater length of mountain routes often healthy runouts, and sometimes simulclimbing and soloing the easier parts, are necessary for a party to be able to cover the route in a reasonable time.
Falling off at the sports crag is often relatively safe as routes are normally vertical or overhanging, thus when falling, the climber will only catch the air. On the mountains, however, routes often are not totally vertical which greatly increases the risk of a falling climber to hurt himself. Furthermore, uncontrolled nature of many falls on the mountains together with backpack dramatically increases risk of a fall to turn into upside down affair. Add together greater risk to hurt oneself when falling, greater length of the fall and poorer quality of protection and you should realise that taking a leader fall in the mountains is generally a really bad idea.
Conditions
It is impossible to exaggerate the impact conditions have on the route. Changing conditions can radically change the difficulty (usually for the more difficult) and character of a route. John Biggar, the author of "The Andes - a guide for Climbers" illustrates this by example of normal route of Illimani. He says he'd rate it AD in the 1992 conditions, F in 1995 and PD in 1996. Consensus grade is PD/AD. Unusually warm conditions in the European Alps during the summer 2003 generated many popular and normally straight forward glacier climbs such as Three Mont Blanc Route (PD/PD+) far more difficult and dangerous (big crevasses, vertical and overhanging steps, more like stiff D or TD than normal PD/PD+).
On rock, climbing gets much more difficult when the rock is of poor quality, dirty, wet, verglassed or all of the above. On ice and snow the difficulty and strenuousness of a route varies considerably. If ice/snow routes have a ready spur, they feel easier and far less strenuous. Also, on good firn conditions (typical in the European Alps during late winter and early summer), many classic ice climbs take much less time to complete and firn offers welcome support for the calf muscles (although reliable protection in such conditions may be problematic to arrange). In contrast, when the route features blank ice, it is typically much more strenuous and often also more difficult to climb (often easier to protect, though). If ice melts considerably, what was a straight forward ice climb in the winter may become technically difficult mixed climb on thin and poorly attached ice with bowel-emptying runouts and minimal (if any) possibilities for protection. Further still, bergschrunds typically gets more difficult to pass as snow cover diminishes. Sometimes passing the bergschrund may be significantly more difficult than the actual route itself.
Besides affecting the difficulty, melting can chance the seriousness of a route dramatically. This have turned many routes that once were pure ice routes and relatively free of objective danger into mixed affairs that are made very serious due to severe rock fall danger. Thus many classic ice routes in European Alps are nowadays reasonable only during the winter and spring. Weather patterns in the mountains are not to be forgotten, some routes are more prone to bad weather than others. Any route feels much harder in snow storm.
It is important not to forgert that gradings are typically gven assuming the conditions are good for the route in question. It is quite possible that many ice/snow routes must then be climbed outside the traditional (summer) season.
Technical difficulty
To be able to give more information about the technical difficulty and character of the route, many grading systems utilise technical grade of appropriate type of climbing (or several) together with overall alpine grade. Don't be fooled by the numbers though, crag (especially sport) climbing grades are of no significance in the mountains. Climbs graded similarly are supposed to be absolutely as difficult whether they locate in the mountains or in the crag. However, climbs located in the mountains most certainly will feell harder. If you just manage to redpoint a well trained sport climb rated VII at sea level when wearing rock climbing shoes, you definitely won't stand a slightest change doing a route with same level of technical difficulty in the mountains placing your own gear and wearing heavier clothing, footwear and pack.
Many guidebooks give degree of steepness on snow and ice sections as inclination angle. While this appears to be simple enough figure, in real world this seems not to be the case. In some cases there may well be short sections with greater inclinations, especially at the bergschrund. Be especially aware of long routes, on which only average angle is given. On some routes, the inclination may well be uniform for, say 1000m. On the other hand, a route with average angle of 55° for 1000m may have even long significantly steeper sections. Another consideration is the meaning of a degree. Many people, especially less experienced, tend to overrate the steepness. It is, for example, not seldom one hears the north flank of Col du Mont Maudit (part of Three Mont Blanc route) to be of steepness "near vertical" or "at least 60°". The reality is somewhere around 45°. Average angle of 60° is already steep for big ice routes, for example, Cornuau-Davaille (on North Face of Les Droites) has average inclination of 60° (and has several long sections that are far steeper graded at IV/AI4+ with overall difficulty at ED). On genuinely steep group, ice grading system is often used as it is much better able to communicate the difficulty.
Technical grades can also tell whole lot about the seriousness of a route. If the level of technical difficulties of a given route is low in comparison with other routes of similar alpine grade, there's a good reason to assume that the route is large scale or serious (propably both). Conversely, when a route features high technical difficulties in relation to routes having similar alpine grade, it can be assumed that the route is short, unserious or has a short crux that is considerably more difficult than the rest of the route (or misgraded).
Ice grading system in itself tells a whole lot about the character of the climb, in many cases way more than the actual alpine grade. For example, classic ice routes Cordier Couloir on Aiguille Verte and Goulotte Chèré on Mont Blanc du Tacul are both graded D+. Albeit both ice routes, they are totally different in nature. Goulotte Chèré is a modern classic and in many ways resembles closely ice fall climbing. It is very easily accessible from Aiguille du Midi telepherique and free of objective danger (save for climber-generated ice fall dangfer). It is also equipped with bolts facilitating easy retreat if need be. Descent is also easy either by rappelling from the bolts or continuing to the top on Mont Blanc du Tacul and walking down along the normal route (PD). The climb has altitude gain of 350m with WI4 (uncharacteristically steep for a climb graded D+) crux while mostly being WI3 and has easier sections. Cordier Couloir, on the other hand, is totally different kind of undertaking. It is nowhere near as steep but climbs up a 1000 meter face with average angle of 55° (AI1). It is heavily endangered by seracs and retreat is difficult and descent is everything but trivial as it involves descending Whymper Couloir (AD+/D), Moine Ridge (AD) or South Pillar of Grande Rocheuse (AD), all of which are 900m routes. If full ice grade is given, the nature of these undertakings is made clear, since Goulotte Chèré is II/WI4 while Cordier Couloir is V/AI1.
Comparing alpine grades
Comparing alpine grades between different grading systems is a classic example of comparing apples and oranges. The grade of different systems take into consideration different factors. Even when the factors considered might be same, their weight in the grade may not be, thus direct translation from one system into another is not possible.
There are especially big differences how different systems compare shorter but technically demanding routes to much longer but technically easier routes. Many grading systems give more emphasis to overall seriousness and scale of the climb than is the case with French adjectival systems. For example, while International French Adjectival System and G-rade system are mostly quite closely related, there are some notable exceptions. For example Ruta Normal on Aconcagua (6960m) has a very modest grade of F in French Adjectival system. This very same grade is given to straight forward and relatively small scale ascents like Glittertind in Norway (2464m). On the other hand, the G-grade of Aconcagua Ruta Normal is G5 while G-grade of Glittertind is G1 (mostly hike with some scrambling). Routes in the European Alps with a grade G5 are typically technically far more difficult than Aconcagua (I, 40°). For example well-known Hörnli Ridge on Matterhorn is also G5 and has technical difficulties up to III, A0 (International French Adjectival Grade AD-). The Russian system gives by far most emphasis on the altitude and sheer scale of the climb. Because of this, some climbers consider it to be the only system capable of communicating the demands of big climbs.
In the description part of grading systems, approximation of grades in other systems are derived from sample routes and various other sources. These are marked in parethesis after the descripton of the grade and denoted with "~". Once again, there are routes that just don't follow this pattern. Several routes have been graded with many systems, when alternative grades are known, they are given together with appropriate technical grades in order to give a more complete picture what is to be expected.
Take the following conversion chart with a very healthy portion of grain of salt:
ifas | G-grade | AK | NCCS | NZ | Rus | Nor | Sco (O) |
---|
F | G1-2 | AK1 | I | NZ1 | 1A-B | I | I |
PD | G3-4 | AK1-2 | I-III | NZ2 | 2A-B | II | II |
AD | G4-6 | AK2-3 | I-III | NZ3 | 3A-B | III-IV | III |
D | G6-8 | AK3-4 | III-IV | NZ4 | 4A-B | IV | IV |
TD | G8-12 | AK4-5 | IV-V | NZ5 | 5A-5B | V | V |
ED1-3 | G12-15 | AK5-6 | V-VII | NZ6 | 5B-6A | VI | VI |
ED4-5 | G16-20 | AK6 | VI-VII | NZ7 | 6B | VI+ | |
International French Adjectival System
The most common grading system used in the European Alps is based on expanded Welzenbach scale and often referred as IFAS (for International French Adjectival System). The system is used in the Western Alps except for Bernese Alps and sometimes in the Eastern Alps. This same system is used also to grade climbs in the Andes, Himalaya and some other areas.
Traditionally the system has combined several factors affecting the difficulty and seriousness of the climb, the most important of them being:
- The technical difficulty of the route (has by far the most impact)
- The seriousness (length, quality of the rock, objective hazards, remoteness...)
- The equipment (quality, serious passages...)
- The conditions (altitude, climate...)
Currently overall commitment grade is sometimes added to complement the overall technical grade to create 2-tier system.
1) Commitment
Roman number running from I to VII is used to present the character of the route. It is determined by a number of factors such as:
- length of the route
- length and difficulty of approach and descent
- how sustained the route is
- the number of difficult pitches
- how exposed the route is
- frequency of ascents
- possibilities to bail
- in-situ gear
- altitude
- objective hazards
2) Overall technical difficulty
The system uses letters derived from French adjective to indicate overall difficulty of the route. Cotations "+" and "-" are sometimes used to indicate minor differences. There are two variations of the grading system may vary at the extreme end. Some use ED-, ED, ED+, ABO- and ABO to refine grading of the extreme routes whereas another way is to add a number after ED making ED grade open ended to classify such routes. The interralation with these cotation are roughly: ED- = ED1, ED = ED2, ED+ = ED3, ABO- = ED4 and ABO = ED5. This part of the grade is often used alone.
Note that this is a climbing grading system, thus it does not begin with no difficulties at all. So F does not mean a nice walk in the park. For instance, routes marked as PD may already have crevassed glaciers, rock climbing with long sections of UIAA II (short sections may be harder) and long sections of 35-45° snow/ice slopes (with short sections up around 50°).
Grade | Description |
---|
F; L | facile (easy). May include glacier approach, moderate snow/ice (up to around 40°/ice grade F-PD) and some simple climbing (usually no more than UIAA I). Little objective danger. Note that this is a grading system for climbing, so the F is already a climbing route. Relatively easy via ferratas. |
PD; WS | peu difficile (little difficult). Involves more complex glacier work and moderate steepness in snow/ice (significant sections of ice/snow up to 45°, steeper bulges possible/ice grade PD-AD). Typically includes UIAA II on rock (short sections of III/f3 not uncommon). Objective dangers apparent but retreat is usually not too complicated. Routes may be long and/or at reside at altitude. Harder via ferratas. |
AD; ZS | assez difficile (quite difficult). Sustained snow/ice up to 45-50deg; with bulges up to around 65 degrees (ice grade AD-AI/WI2, max AI/WI3). On mixed routes up to M3. Rock climbing up to around IV/f4 and sustained at III/f3. Routefinding may be difficult. Note that some guidebooks give time estimates of ice/snow ascents of this level of difficulty with an assumption that they are climbed without rope or simul-climbed. On ice routes two tools are usually needed. Thus they may take much longer if the party chooses to belay the route. |
D; S | difficile (difficult). Sustained snow/ice of 50-70 degrees (ice grade 1-3), may contain short section of AI/WI4. Mixed climbing up to M4. Sections of Rock climbing at UIAA IV-V/f5 and sustained at IV/f4. Can contain easy aid (usually no more A0). Some routes of this grade are serious undertakings. Several classic big routes are graded at D. Retreat can be difficult, thus routes of this caliber shall not be undertaken unless the weather is good (and is going to stay so). |
TD; SS | très difficile (very difficult). Sustained snow/ice 50-70 with occasional pitches of AI/WI 4/5. Mixed climbing up to M5. Rock climbing up to UIAA V+-VI/f6. Can contain sections of A1. Serious undertakings with high objective danger. |
ED1-3/ED; AS | extrêment difficile (extremely difficult). Very hard routes. Extreme difficulties in rock (UIAA VI+ - VIII-/f7), significant sections requiring aid climbing at A2 or harder not uncommon) and ice (ice grades 4-6/80-90°) or mixed terrain at M5 or harder and/or with exceptional objective danger. |
ED4-5/ABO; EX | abominablement difficile (abominably difficult)/exceptionellement difficile (exceptionally difficult). Horrible... Everything that ED1-3 has to offer and more of it. Typically UIAA VIII/f7 or more on the rock, significant sections of hard aid (A3 and upwards) are typical; grade 5 or harder on ice (90+°), often with difficult mixed sections. |
3) Technical difficulty
To give better idea of the difficulties found on a route, sometimes technical rock and/or ice grade is used to give impression on the technical difficulties of hardest moves/pitches. When these technical difficulties are indicated, the conditions are supposed to be good (for example the rock is supposed to be dry). If in-situ climbing aid exist (such as fixed ropes), the grading expects them to be used unless the contrary is explicitly stated (sometimes all-free grades are given separately).
For rock parts, either UIAA scale (Roman numbers) or French sport grade (Arabic numbers are used). The same value does not mean equal difficulties, although the systems are roughly identical up to around grade 4. In France it is a common practice that the longer the route, the less severe is the rating. Thus if the pitch would get a technical grade 6a at low-altitude crag, the same pitch high in the mountains would be graded a bit higher.
For snow and ice sections, inclination angle is typically used to indicate the difficulty (mostly maximum inclination, sometimes average). For genuinely steep climbs (usually around 60°or more), ice climbing grade, most commonly WI-grade but sometimes Scottish grade, might be used.
For mixed parts, sometimes WI-grade system is used (M-grade). However, it is more common to use normal rock grade, even though it might not tell that much about the actual difficulty.
Complete grade
In complex situations the whole alpine grade combined with appropriate technical grades can lead to pretty algeabric cotations like: D+ IV/AI3 M3 R III+ & A0 (VI+). This kind of cotations tell a whole lot about the route. First of all, since there are technical difficulties on both ice and rock, the route is obviously a mixed one. Furthermore, the order of these cotations tell that the crux is on ice/mixed terrain, has both alpine ice up to technical grade 3 and mixed terrain up to grade 3. Its also has long run-outs, possibly due the thin nature of the ice. The commitment ice grade IV is rathar hard for a climb of technical difficulty of the grade three, so it suggeststs that the climb may be remote, large scale or have some objective hazards (or quite possibly all of the mentioned). Rock part is up to UIAA III+ when using in situ gear (A0) and up to VI+ if climbed completely free. This all adds up to give a overall alpine grade D+.
Few considerations
One should always keep in mind that gradings are given supposing the conditions are good. The conditions can (and do) greatly affect the difficulty and seriousness of a route. Rock routes may feel several grades harder when the rock is wet, and even relatively moderate ice climbs can be very hard (or even impossible) and objectively hazardous when out of condition.
Although overall difficulty grade takes several factors into account, the technical difficulties have most impact on the grade. For example the NNE ridge of Aiguille de l'M (a relatively short (180m), well-protected rock climb with IV+, mostly III-IV-, at low-altitude and free from serious objective hazards) and the mega-classic Brenva Spur in the awesome East Face of Mont-Blanc (900m for the technical part, total of 1400m featuring mixed climbing with difficulties up to 50°, possibly more at the serac barrier, on snow/ice and III on rock and involves serious objective hazards due to seracs) receive the same rating: D- (Unfortunately Brenva Spur in it's classic form has been destroyd in a rock fall).
Finally, some of the very high but technically easy mountains have a low grade (normal route of Aconcagua for example has been graded F). Due the high altitude, more remote location, and overall scale of the undertaking, this kind of climbs are way more serious than a climb with the same grade in European Alps. Also, routes on more remote areas see far less traffic than more popular routes, which adds to the seriousness of a climb (routefinding problems, anyone?). Some other systems see the situation differently. The same Ruta Normal of Aconcagua is graded G5 with the system used in Bernese Alps. The routes in the Alps that receive the same grade of G5 are typically technically much more difficult, such as Hörnligrat of Matterhorn (AD with III and A0) or Mitteleggigrat on Eiger (AD/D, IV).
Examples
In the following table I have gathered the grades used with a short explanation. Technical difficulties given in the description part give the technical difficulty of the most difficult move/pitch that are typically encountered on the route. However, short sections may well be more difficult. Bear also in mind that the difficulties faced on a particular route may change significantly because of snow and ice conditions, rock falls etc. The gradings of the routes mentioned below as examples are based on various sources, so there are no guarantees to their validity.
Grade | Examples |
---|
F; L | facile (easy). May include glacier approach, moderate snow/ice (up to around 40°/ice grade F-PD) and some simple climbing (usually no more than UIAA I). Little objective danger. Note that this is a grading system for climbing, so the F is already a climbing route. Relatively easy via ferratas. |
| - Aconcagua6959mNW sideRuta NormalG5/NZ2; I, 40°2730m, 5-9 days
- Aconcagua6959mEast sidePolish Traversenccs IV/AK22762m, Two or three high camps usual
- Allalinhorn4027mWest flankWest FlankE1; 40°580m, 2,5h
- Aonagh EagachAonagh Eagach ridge
- Breithorn4164mWest summit, North sideSW flankAD1300m, 5h from Gandegghütte
- Breithorn4164mWest summit, SW sideSW flankG1; 35°350m, 1-2h
- Cotopaxi5897mNorth sideNorth side40-50°1100m, 5,5h
- Dômes de Miage3673mEast sideTraverse East to WestII/PD/45°, III
1090m
6-8h from round trip from Conscritis Hut
- Glittertind2465mWest sidefrom SpiterstulenG11350m
- Grosses WiesbachhornKaindlgrat
- Himlung Himal7126mWest sidenormal route from westV F2276m
- Hochfeiler3509mSW sideSW RidgeG2; I (short passage)950m, 3h
- Jbel Toubkal4167mSouth sideIkhibi Sud35°950m, 3-4h from the hut
- Kilimanjaro5895mSouth sideMaranguF4096m
- Mangart2679mSlovenian routeF600m, 3-4h from Lahnscharte (2072m)
- Maparaju5326mWest sideSW and W slopes45°1000m
- Mardi Himal5587mnormal route
- Middle Teton3903mSW sideSW Couloir4th class1810m
- Mont Blanc4808mNorth faceGrands MuletsG4; 40°
From téléphérique station Plan de l'Aiguille (2310m) to the Grands Mulets Hut 800m, summit climb 1776m
From téléphérique station Plan de l'Aiguille to the Grands Mulets Hut 3h, summit climb 6-7h
- Monte Cevedale3769mNE ridgeNormal route30°650m, 1,5-2h from Casati hut. 1170m, 8-9h from Schaubach hut.
- Monte Leone3553mWest sideWSW RidgeG2/E2; II/3a, 35°700m/1500m, 5h from Simplonpass (2005m), 4h from Monte Leone hut.
- Monte Viso3841mSouth faceSouth faceG2; II1130m
- Nevado Pissis6793mNorth sideNE sideRus 4A2205m, 3 days
- Petite Aiguille Verte3512mNW sideNW Ridge3b, III (one move), I AI1
100m
1h
- Pico de Orizaba5636mNorth side north sideGlacier de Jamapanccs III 30°1350m
- Piz Buin3312mWest sideWest RidgeG3; 45°1700m, 6,5h
- Outha Huichuli7134mmnormal routeF
- Ramdung Go5930mnormal route
- South Teton3750mNW couloir
- Triglav2864mWSW Ridge - SE RidgeIII1850m
- Mount Vinson4892mBranscombe glacier & Vinson Shin colF2200m
- Wildspitze3770mWest sidevia Mitterkarjoch45°/M3, I-II950m, 3,5h
- Zugspitze2962mNE RidgeHöllentalsteigG2; via ferrata C7-8h, 2200m
|
PD; WS | peu difficile (little difficult). Involves more complex glacier work and moderate steepness in snow/ice (significant sections of ice/snow up to 45°, steeper bulges possible/ice grade PD-AD). Typically includes UIAA II on rock (short sections of III/f3 not uncommon). Objective dangers apparent but retreat is usually not too complicated. Routes may be long and/or at reside at altitude. Harder via ferratas. |
| - Aconcagua6959mEast sidePolish Glacier40°2762m, Two or three high camps usual
- Aconcagua6959mEast sidePolish Glacier50-55°2762m, Two or three high camps usual
- Aconcagua6959mEast sidePolish Glaciernccs IV/AK22762m, Two or three high camps usual
- Aiguille d'Argentière3901mWest faceMilieu GlacierG3; II/PD+°/50°
1200m, 400 of them 35°-40° steep
4-5h
- Alphubel4206mNorth sideEast FlankG3; 45°, II (50m)1300m, 4-5h from Täsch hut (2701m, 1500m of ascent)
- Barre des Écrins4102mNorth faceNorth Face & West RidgeG4/nccs II; 40°, II, mostly I1060m, 4h from Refuge des Écrins (3175m)
- Baruntse7129mSE sideSE Ridge45-50°2400m
- Chimborazo6270mEl Castillo40°1310m, 13-16h (round trip)
- Cho Ouy8201mNW flank
- Dom4545mNorth sideNorth Flank40°, 2a/II1650m, 5-7h from Dom Hut
- Dufourspitze4634mNorth sideN Face and W RidgeG4; 3a/II+, mostly I, III/AI1/40°1840m, 5-7h in ascent, 4h in descent.
- Elbrus5642mWest Peak West PeakWest Peak, Southern routeRus 2A/nccs III 35-40; 35-40°1540m, 6-8h from Eleven Hut in ascent, 4-5h in descent.
- Finsteraarhorn4274mWest sideSW Face and NW RidgeG3-4/Rus 2A; II and I, 35°1250m, 4-5h in ascent, 2-2,5h in descent
- Gran Paradiso4061mWest faceWest FlankG2-3; 35°, II1350m, 4-5h
- Grand Combin4320mCombin de Grafeneire, NW side Combin de Grafeneire, NW sideNW Flank of Combin de Grafeneire45°, I1650m, 6-8h from Panossiérehütte (2645m)
- Grivola3969m
Via NormalePD1380m, 5-6h
- Grossglockner3798mEast sideNormal Route35°, II344m, 1,5h from Erzherzog-Johannshütte
- Grossvenediger3666mNorth sideNorth routeG2; 35°
- Hoher Dachstein2995mWest sideLinzer Weg & traverseG3; I+/via ferrata A/B250m/800m, 3,5h from hut to Hunekogen ski lift via East face klettersteig.
- Huascarán Sur6746mWest side West SlopeGargantanccs IV 45; II, 45°6-8h from Garganta. 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho
- Huyana PotosiNorth Peak, East sideEast slope & North ridge
- Illimani6438mWest sideSW face & W ridgenccs II 50°; II, 50°1000m, 5-7h from Nido de Codones camp
- Imja Tse6183mSouth sideSE Flank & SW Ridgenccs III 45° A0; 45°1000m
- Ishinca5530mNW sideNW Slopesnccs III 45°700/1130m, 5-6h
- Königsspitze3851mSouth sideSE Spur45°, I1200m, 4-5h from Pizzini hut, descent 4h
- Liberty Bell2360mBeckey Routenccs II 5.6150m
- LyskammEast Ridge
- Makalu II7678mnormal route
- Marmolada di Penia3343mNE sideNormal route from northG1-2; 30°700m, 1,5-2h
- Mera Peak6476mNorth FaceNorth FaceSco I/45°1400m
- Mont Blanc4808mMiage faceAiguilles Grisesnccs III/Rus 2A/B; III AI1/40°, II1736m, 7-8h
- Mont Blanc4808mBosses areteGoûter RidgeIII PD/Sco I/40°, II
1050m
4-5h
- Mont Blanc4808mNE ridgeThree Mont BlancNZ2+/3; III/AI1/50°1730m
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mNorth faceNorth-West FaceG2-3/Rus 2A; II/AI1/40°
700m
2,5-3h
- Monte Disgrazia3678mNW RidgePreda RossaG4; III, mostly II and I, 45°1100m, 4-5h from the hut.
- Monte Perdido3355mFrom Nerín
- Mount Ararat5165mNormal route
- Mount Athabasca3491mNorth FaceNorth glaciernccs II 45°1500m
- Mount Everest8848mSouth sideSouth col routeRus 5A-B; 50°842m, 2km. One day round trip from South Col (ascent time 5-10h). 3500m
- Mount Rainier4394mEast sideDisappointment Cleavernccs II 35°/AK1+1290m
- Mönch4107mSouth sideSE RidgeG3; II, 45°650m, 2,5-3h from Jungfraujoch, 450m, 2-3h from Mönchjochs hut
- Nadelhorn4327mnormal route
- Nevado Ojos del Salado6893mChilean sideChilean climbIII1660m
- Pisco Oeste5752mSW ridgeSW Slopesnccs II; 45°/AI1850m, 3-5h from moraine camp
- Nevado Sajama6550mWest sideNW ridgenccs II 50°; 50° (50m)°1000/2300m
- Urus Este5420mSouth faceSE slopes to east ridgenccs III 45-50°; 45-50°1040m, 5-6h from BC
- Ortler3905mTabarettagratTabaretta RidgeIII/II,A0, 45°900m, 3-5h from Julius Payer Hut (3029m)
- Paldor5928mTilman Ridge
- Pico de Aneto3404mWest sideCorredor Estasen45-50°, II220m, 3h
- Pico de Aneto3404mNorth sidePortillón SuperiorII1700m
- PiggtindenWest RidgeHS
- Pique Longue3298mSouth sideNormal routeII+, 35°750m
- Piz Bernina4049mSouth ridgeSpallagratII, 35°1050m from Diavolezza Hut (1973m) to Marco e Rosa Hut (3597m), summit climb 500m, 1,5h.
- Piz Palü3923mEast ridgeEast ridge via East summit40°950m, 4,5h from Diavolezza Hut
- Shisha Pangma8012mNorth faceNW face and north ridgeRus 6A; 45°3400m, camps usually at 6350, 6950 and 7350m
- Tofana di Rozes3225mnormal route
- Tour Ronde3792mSE ridgeSouth-East RidgeRus 2B; II AD/35-40° on snow/ice (snow couloir variant up to 45°)°, I-II/5.3
250m, ridge length 600m
3-4h from Col du Géant
- Weissmies4017mNorth sideNW Face and W RidgeE2; 45°1050m, 3-4h from Hohsaas; 1h longer from Weissmies hut
- Wildspitze3770mEast sidePetersen RouteII900m
|
AD; ZS | assez difficile (quite difficult). Sustained snow/ice up to 45-50deg; with bulges up to around 65 degrees (ice grade AD-AI/WI2, max AI/WI3). On mixed routes up to M3. Rock climbing up to around IV/f4 and sustained at III/f3. Routefinding may be difficult. Note that some guidebooks give time estimates of ice/snow ascents of this level of difficulty with an assumption that they are climbed without rope or simul-climbed. On ice routes two tools are usually needed. Thus they may take much longer if the party chooses to belay the route. |
| - Aconcagua6959mEast sideEast Glacier60-65°, IV-VI/5.5-5.92762m
- Aiguille de ChardonnetForbes Arete
- Aiguille de BionassayArete de Bionassay
- Aiguille de l'Index2595mSE RidgeSE Ridge3b/4b/5.7 (one move)200m, 1,5h
- Aiguille de Rochefort4001mRochefort ridgeArete de RochefortRus 3B-4A; III/AI1°/45°, II and I
ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, 450m, ridge length 2500m
9-10h from refugio Torino to Col des Grandes Jorasses, descent from there to Montenvers 5-7-h/to Val Ferret 6-7h.
- Aiguille de Rochefort4001mRochefort ridgeArete de RochefortIV, mostly II and I
Total 600m, Ridge 2,5km
10-12h from bivouac to Col du Géant
- Aiguille de Blaitière3507mNE faceSpencer CouloirSco I/avg. 51°300m
- Aiguille du Midi3842mCosmiques RidgeArete des CosmiquesSco III, 4c/5.6/IV+/III,A0
250m
2-4h
- Aiguille du Plan3673mWest sideMidi-Plan TraverseSco II/40°, 3200m
- Aiguille Verte4122mSE Side (Talèfre)Whymper Couloir55°, avg.48°
Hut climb from Montenvers 900m, summit climb 620m/1450m
Hut climb from Montenvers 3-4h, summit climb 6-9h
- Alphubel4206mWest sideRotgratG6; 4a/III+/IV and II1500m, 5-7h from Täsch hut
- Artesonraju5999mNorth ridgeNorth Ridge60°, IV+800m (6-8h) from the glacier, 1200m (10-12h) from the camp
- Barre des Écrins4102mNorth faceEast RidgeIII and II, 50°450m, 2h from Bréche des Écrins
- Barre des Écrins4102mSouth faceSouth FaceIII and II, 55°630m, 3-4h from Col des Avalanches, 1700m, 6-8h from Temple Hut
- Ben Nevis1343mTower RidgeTower Ridge600m
- Ben Nevis1343mTower RidgeTower RidgeSco III/IV,3, Diff (in summer)600m
- Breithorn4164mEast summit, South sideTraverse E-WE2; 45-50°, 4a/IV730m, 5-7h from Cesare e Giorgio Rosi bivouac hut (3750); 1180m, 6,5-8,5h from Val d'Ayas
- Bugaboo Spire3186mSouth side South RidgeKain routenccs III 5.6+ 40°
- Carstenz Pyramid4884mHarrer
- Chopicalqui6345mWest sideSW ridge65°760m, 5-7h from high camp. Total 2150m. 1-2 days round trip from moraine camp (4800m). Col camp at 5600m.
- Cima Brenta3150mNorth sideNordrinne45°, II350m, 1-2h
- Tre Cime di LavaredoCima GrandeNormal route
- Cima Tosa3140mNorth sideCanale della Tosa55, (one passage, mostly 40-45)°, II-III900m, 2,5-4h
- Clariden3267mNordwandE4; 3b, 45-50°950m from Vartrutt (1799m) on the Klausenpass road or from Klausenpass
- Condoriri5648mSW sideSW Ridgenccs III 40-50° 5.3-5.4; 40-50°, III/5.3-5.4400m
- Dent Blanche4357mSouth RidgeWandlügratG5; III, 35°850m, 3-6h from Dent Blache hut
- Dent d'Hérens4174mSW sideSW side & West RidgeG4; I-II600m, 3h from Tiefenmattenjoch, 1400m, 5-6h from Aosta hut
- Dent du Géant4013mSouth sideSW FaceIII,A0/5.7,A0/4c/V+
ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, summit block 180m
ascent to the Sella á Manger 2-3h, summit block 1h
- Dhaulagiri8172mNE Ridge via NE col
- Dom4545mNorth sideFestigratG4; 2a/II, 50°3h from Festijoch; 1600m, 5-6h from Dom hut
- Eiger3970mWest ridgeWest FlankG4; III-1650m. 6-8h in ascent, 3-4h in descent.
- Grand Combin4320mCombin de Valsorey, South sideMeitingrat3c/III, mostly II and easier1300m, 5-6,5h from Valsorey hut, 7-8h from Panossiérehütte
- Grand Teton4199mSouth side South SideExum Ridgenccs III 5.7-5.8; 5.7-5.8/5a/IV+/V450m/2197m, 6 pitches. 8h for Lower Exum ridge (to summit), 5-6h for Upper Exum Ridge.
- Grand Teton4199mSouth side South SideExum Ridgenccs II 5.5; 4c/IV640m/2650m
- Grandes Jorasses4208mSouth sideSW side via Pointe WhymperIV/AD/45, 3c/III (occasionally), mostly II
Hut climb 1200m, summit climb 1400m
Hut climb 4h, summit climb 6-7h
- Grossglockner3798mSouth sideStüdlgratIII534m, 3h
- Grossglockner3798mSouth sideSüdgratIV600m
- Huyana Potosi6088mEast slope & North ridge
- Huandoy Norte6395mEast faceEast Icefall45°2-3 days
- Jungfrau4158mSW sideRottalgratG5; III1400m, 6-7h from Rottal hut
- Les Courtes3856mNorth faceNE SlopeIII/AD/50° (avg. 48°)°
850m, total 1100m
5-6h
- Lobuje East6119mSouth sideSouth Ridge to Presummit40-50°1000m
- LyskammTraverse W-E
- Margheritafrom Stanley ice plateau via Alexandria
- Matterhorn4478mEast FaceHörnligratG5/E4/NZ3+/4/nccs III; III,A0/3a1200m, climbing distance 1700m, 5-6h from Hörnlihut (3260m)
- Marmolada di Penia3343mNorth faceNorth face50-55°, II-III650m, 4h. Approach 0,5h (75m) from Pian dei Fiacconi (2626m)
- Mont Blanc4808mMiage faceTournette SpurIII PD/30-45°, III, mostly II
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mTringle du TaculContamine-MazeaudII WI2/Sco III/65°, IV
350m from bergschrund to the top of the triangle (P 3970), further 280m to the summit
approach 1h, face to the summit 4h, descend to Aiguille du Midi 2-3h
- Mont Collon3637mWest sideWest RidgeII500m
- Monte Disgrazia3678mNW RidgeSchenatti CouloirII AD/50°, II400m/1100m, 4-7h from the hut
- Mount Andromeda3450mNorth sideSkyladdernccs II AI2; II/AI2/45°1400m
- Mount Cook3754mNortheast face North sideLinda glacierNZ3/3+; 40-45°
1700m
15-18h
- North Palisade4341mU-Notch & Chimney variationnccs III-IV 5.2 50°300m
- Mount Whitney4421m
East Facenccs III 5.6-5.9; 5b/5a,A01,000'/5,860'
- Mulhacén3479mNorth faceNorth face central couloir55°500m, 4-5h
- Nevado Sajama6550mWest sideSW Ridgenccs III 55°; 55°1100m
- Obergabelhorn4063mSouth sideArbengratE4; 4b/III+500m/1200m. 2,5-3h from Arben Biwak to summit.
- Petit Vignemale3032mNorth sideNW Buttress4c350m
- Pik Lenin7134mNorth facevia RazdelnayaRus 5A; IV/AI1/45-50°3450m
- Piz Badile3308mNorth ridgeNorth RidgeRus 4A/E4; 5a+ E4 (mostly 4b)/IV+ (mostly III and IV)/5.7800m height gain, 1250m climbing with 18-25 pitches, 8-10h. Round trip from Bondo typically 3 days.
- Piz Bernina4049mNorth ridgeBiancogratG6/E4; 45-50°, III/III+600m 4h (ridge itself), 1450m, 7-8h from Tschierva Hut
- Quitaraju6036mNorth sideWest Ridge60°400/650m, 4-7h
- Punta del'ArgenteraÉperon du Promontoire
- Punta del'ArgenteraCouloir de Lourousa
- Schreckhorn4078mSW Ridge via Schrecksattel
- Stetind1392mSouth sideSE ridgeNor IV,4/4+; 5.6800m, 5h from camp at Svartvatnet
- Store SkagastølstindHeftyes Ramp
- Store SkagastølstindAndrews renne
- Täschhorn4491mNW sideKinflankeG5; 2a/II+, 50°1700m, 6h from Dom hut (2940m, approach from Randa).
- Tocllaraju5980mNW RidgeArista NOnccs III 50-55°; 50-55° (100m, rimaye wall 60-70°)°1032m, 5-7h. 2 days round trip from BC
- Vallunaraju5686mEast sideNorth ridgeII AD-550m, 2-3 day round trip from Huaraz
- Vågakallen942mNorth ridgeNorth Ridge4+/5.512 pitches of climbing and plenty of scrambling
- Weisshorn6882mEast Ridge
- Wildspitze3770mNorth FaceNorth Face50°300m, 2,5h
- Zsigmondyspitze3087mSouth sideSE RidgeIII- (short passage), II200m, 1-2,5h. 1830m, 11h from Ginzling-Darrenberg
- Zinalrothorn4221mSouth SideSE Ridge3b/III-, mostly II and I1050m, 4-5h from Rothorn hut
- Zinalrothorn4221mSouth SideSE RidgeG10; V and IV+4-5h
|
D; S | difficile (difficult). Sustained snow/ice of 50-70 degrees (ice grade 1-3), may contain short section of AI/WI4. Mixed climbing up to M4. Sections of Rock climbing at UIAA IV-V/f5 and sustained at IV/f4. Can contain easy aid (usually no more A0). Some routes of this grade are serious undertakings. Several classic big routes are graded at D. Retreat can be difficult, thus routes of this caliber shall not be undertaken unless the weather is good (and is going to stay so). |
| - Aconcagua6959mSouth faceArgentine routeD2462, 2-4 days
- Aiguille de ChardonnetGabarrou Couloir
- Aiguille de l'Index2595mEast facevoie Perroux5c250m
- Aiguille de l'M2844mNNE ridgeNNE Ridge5b/IV+/5.7240m
- Aiguille du Midi3842mNorth faceFrendo SpurRus 4A-B; III WI4/80°, IV/5.7
1100m
6-8h
- Aiguille du Plan3673mEast sideRyan-Lochmatter RidgeIV+/5.6550m
- Aiguille Verte4122mNorth faceGrands Montets RidgeIV+, mostly III and IV, 50°
900m
10-12h
- Aiguille Verte4122mNant Blanc Face Nant Blanc FaceCharlet-Platonov4c/IV, mostly III, V/AI2/58°, avg.52°
900m
7-12h
- Alpamayo5947mSW faceFerrari50-65°400m from the bergschrund (8 pitches)
- Ama Dablam6814mSW faceSW Ridge5.5/IV,A0/5a, 45-55°/IV/WI4 M3+2200m, 4 days
- Artesonraju5999mSouth sideSouth-East Face45-55°800m from camp at Paron glacier (5200m), 7-9h
- Barre des Écrins4102mNorth faceCouloir Barre NoireSco I/II/50°, avg. 47°2-3h. 1100m, 4h from Ecrins hut (3175)
- Ben Nevis1343mTower RidgeGlovers ChimneySco III/IV/WI3/75°140/650m
- Ben Nevis1343mCoire na SisteComb GullyII/WI3/Sco III/IV/80°135m
- Bishorn4153mNE FaceNE FaceG10; 50-58°, IV650m
- Bugaboo Spire3186mNorth sideNorth-East Ridgenccs IV 5.7450m
- Tre Cime di LavaredoCima GrandeDibona
- Tre Cime di LavaredoCima Piccola di Lavaredovia delle guide
- Cima Presanella3558mNorth sideNorth Face50-55°500m (start at 3050m), 2,5-5h for the face
- Dent Blanche4357mFerpéclegratFerpèclegratE5; IV+, IV and III850m, 7h
- Dent d'Hérens4174mWest sideWNW FaceG6; III, 50°1500m, 6-9h
- Dom4545mTäscchorn-Dom traverse
- Dufourspitze4634mEast faceMarinelli CouloirG10/E5; 55°, 4a/III-IV1700m, 9-12h from Marinelli Hut
- Eiger3970mNE faceMitteleggigratG5/nccs IV 5.8,A0; IV,A0615m/820m, 4-8h from Mitteleggi hut.
- Eiskögele3462mNorth faceErwincouloir60-70°450m. Approach 2-3,5h from Rudolfshötte (2311m), ascent 3-5h
- El Altar5319mEl ObispoItalian route
- Fletschhorn3985mNorth faceWiener RouteG10; 60°600m, 4-8h
- Gran Paradiso4061mNorth sideNorth FaceIV/D/50-55°600m (11 pitches)
- Grand Combin4320mCombin de Valsorey, NW sideNW Face of Combin de Valsorey60°, III700m, 4h. 5-7h from Valsorey hut
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth faceHirondelles Ridge5c,A1/V+ (20m, mostly III and IV)
750m
6-8h
- Grossglockner3798mNorthwest ridge & GlocknerwandGlocknerwand traverseIV/IV+, 50°1000m, 5,5h
- Grossglockner3798mNorth sideMayerlrampeWI3-/60-70°, III4-6h from base to summit
- Grossglockner3798mNorth sidePallavicinirinneAI1-2/50-55°, III600m, 2-6h
- Grossglockner3798mNorth sidePallavicinirinneAI2/60°, II600m, 2-6h
- Half Dome2695mSouth sideSnake Dikenccs III 5.7 R; 5a250m (8 pitches), 3-4h
- Hochalmspitze3360mNorth faceGussenbauerrinne57°, II-III280m, 1,5-3h
- Hochfeiler3509mNorth FaceNorth Face55°, avg. 45°350m, 1,5-4h
- Hohe Riffl3338mNordwand57°250m (7-8 pitches), 2-3,5h
- Huascarán Sur6746mWest sideShield40-60°400/1000m. 10h from Garganta camp (5900m)
- Huyana Potosi6088mvia de los Franceses
- Illimani6438mWest side Pico Norte, south sideSW facenccs II 50°; II, 50°1000m, 5-7h from Nido de Codones camp
- Jungfrau4158mNW sideRottbrettgratG7; III,A0/IV1500m, 8-12h from Silberhorn hut
- Kilimanjaro5895mSouth sideHeim glacier originalnccs III+12h
- Khan Tengri6995mNorth sideWest RidgeRus 5B; 50°3210m, 5 days
- Khan Tengri6995mSouth sideWest RidgeRus 5A; Sco III3000m
- Kusum Kanguru6369mNE side East summit, north sideNE ridgeD/TD2080m, 7 days
- Kusum Kanguru6369mNE side East summit, north sideNE ridge2090m, 5 days
- Kwangde6187mSouth face Kwangde Lho, South faceSouth RidgeIII AD/D1500m
- Kwangde6187mSouth face Kwangde Lho, South faceSouth Ridge
- Königsspitze3851mLanger SuldengratSuldengratIV and III, 55-60°1100m, climbing distance 2500m, 6-10h from Hintergrat hut
- Königsspitze3851mKurzer SuldengratSuldengratIV- and III, 55-60°400m, climbing distance 1200m, 3-5h from Suldenjoch.
- La Meije3982mSouth faceTraverse South-NorthIV, 35°890m ascent, 530m descent. 10-12h from Promontoire hut (3092m) to Refuge de l'Aigle (3450m)
- La Meije3982mNorth faceCouloir en ZIV/AI3+/70°900m, 6h from Refuge de l'Aigle, 9-11h from Promentoire hut
- Lenzspitze4294mNorth sideDreieselswandRus 3B; 56°/50°, 3c/III490m. Approach 1,25h from the hut, face 3-4h
- Lobuje East6119mSouth sideSouth Ridge to True summitIII D
- LyskammNorman-Neruda/Klucker Rib
- Matterhorn4478mWest FaceZmuttgratG9; 3c/IV and III, 50°1200m, 7-9h from Hörnlihut
- Mönch4107mNW faceNollenG6; III/AI2/60-65°1310m, 6-8h from Guggi Hut
- Mont Blanc4808mBrenva faceBrenva SpurIV D/45-50°, II-III
900m to the Col de la Brenva, total of 1300m to the summit
From Rifugio Quintino Sella 2,5-8,5h
- Mont Blanc4808mInnominata RidgeInnominata RidgeIV+, IV AI2 M2/54°
1000m
7-12h
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mTringle du TaculGoulotte ChèréII WI4; II/WI4/Sco IV/85°350m, 3-4h to the top of the Triangle
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mEast faceDiable RidgeIV+, 35°
600m
11-13h from Torino Hut
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mEast faceGervasutti CouloirV/AI2/Sco III
700m
2-6h
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mEast faceGervasutti CouloirV/AI1/55°, avg.50°
700m
2-6h
- Mont Dolent3820mNorth faceWest Slope & North RidgeIV, 50°
600m
8h
- Mount Athabasca3491mNorth FaceRegular North Facenccs III 5.4; 52°7-8 pitches
- Mount Cook3754mNortheast faceEast RidgeNZ41550m
- Mount Kenya5199mSouth face South FaceIce WindowIV WI3-4 in the narrow gully400m, 6h from Darwin Glacier to Gate of Mists
- Mount Kenya5199mSouth face SE FaceMcInder's Routenccs IV 5.7+; III+/IV-, mostly III300m/20 pitches), 5h to Nelion, round trip to Batian additional 3h.
- Mount Rainier4394mNorth sideLiberty Ridgenccs III-IV AI2; III-IV/AI2/50°1300m
- Mount Robson3945mNorth faceNorth Facenccs IV 55°; 55°850m/2290m. 3-4 days from car to car.
- Mount Tasman3497mGrand PlateauSilberhorn AreteNZ3+/4; 70°
1100m
16-20h if pitched
- Yerupaja6617mWest sideWest Face & SW Ridge60°800m, 12h
- Mount Washington1917mHuntington ravine Huntington RavinePinnacle Gullynccs III WI2+/3; III/WI2+/3/80°/NEI 3200m/1300m
- Ortler3905mNorth FaceNordwandIV, 55°
- Ortler3905mNorth FaceNordwandIV/AI2/50-60°, I-1200m. 4-8h from Tabaretta hut
- Peak Pobedy7439mNorth sideMedzmarishviliRus 5B3400m
- Petites Jorasses3650mSouth Ridge
- Pik Kommunizma7495mNorth sideBorodkin SpurRus 5B; 55°3800m
- Pik Lenin7134mNorth faceNorth Face ClassicRus 5A3450m
- Pique Longue3298mNorth faceNorth Face5b900m
- Piz Palü3923mNorth faceKuffnerpfeilerE4; IV-, AI1°/50°580m, 3-5h.
- Piz Roseg3937mNordostwand
- Pordoispitze2952mPordoiwand PordoiwandFedeleIV+/HS,4b/5.7800m, 26 pitches, 6h (to big ledge, another 1,5h to summit)
- PumoriSE ridge
- Quitaraju6036mNorth sideNorth Face55° (last 50m, mostly 50°)°400/650m, 3-5h (face only)
- Quitaraju6036mNorth sideNorth Face60-65°700m
- Ranrapalca6162mNE FaceNE face55°, IV/5.5862m, 5-7h
- Shivling6543mNorth sideWest RidgeIV+/V, 70°1400m
- Shivling6543mNorth sideWest RidgeIII/IV2100m
- Singu Chuli6501mNE Face & East RidgeNE Face50°2350m
- Tocllaraju5980mWest faceWest Face Directnccs V; AI3/70°600m/1100m
- Tofana di Rozes3225mPrimo Spigolo
- Tour Ronde3792mNorth faceNorth FaceII/AI2/Sco II/60° (avg.52°)°, IV (Direct Finnish variant)
350m/10-12 pitch
4h (3-5h)
- Triglav2864mNorth FaceGerman RouteIV-1200m. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m).
- Ushba4710mNorth Peak, north side North Peak, north sideNE RidgeRus 4A; 50°700m, 6-9h
- Weisshorn6882mSchaligrat
|
TD; SS | très difficile (very difficult). Sustained snow/ice 50-70 with occasional pitches of AI/WI 4/5. Mixed climbing up to M5. Rock climbing up to UIAA V+-VI/f6. Can contain sections of A1. Serious undertakings with high objective danger. |
| - Aiguille de ChardonnetCharlet-Bettembourg Couloir
- Aiguille du Plan3673mNorth faceLagarde-Segogne couloirIV/WI4/Sco IV/avg. 64°, 5c900m
- Aiguille du Plan3673mNorth faceNorth Face DirectIV/D/60°, 4c/IV1000m
- Aiguille Triolet3870mNorth face North FaceGréloz-RochV AI2/Sco III/60/65°, avg.54°
800m
6-8h
- Aiguilles des Grands Charmoz3445mNorth faceNorth FaceV/M4+/Sco V,6/65°900m
- Aiguille Noire de Peuterey3772mSouth RidgeSouth RidgeV+,A0/VI1032m
- Aiguille Noire de Peuterey3772mWest faceRatti-VitaliV+,A1700m
- Ailefroide3954mDevies-GervasuttiIV/V1050m
- Arwa Spires6193mEast summit, East ridgeEast RidgeWI4/Sco V, VI/5.91000m
- Barre des Écrins4102mSouth faceSouth PillarV+ (one passage), V (several passages) and IV+ (sustained)/6a1100m, 6-9h on the face
- Ben Nevis1343mOrion FaceOrion Face DirectIV WI4/5/Sco V,5400m (2-4h)
- Ben Nevis1343mObservatory Gully areaPoint Five GullyII-III/WI4/Sco V,5/80-90°325m
- Breithorn4164mBethman-Hollweg/Supersaxo
- Tre Cime di Lavaredo2999mCima Grandevia Dulder
- Civetta3220mVia Solleder-Lettenbauer
- Dent Blanche4357mNE Face NW faceOriginalV/V+950m, 12-15h from Bivouac Dent Blanche
- Dent du Crocodile3640mEast RidgeEast RidgeV520m
- Dent du Requin3422mNorth faceNorth Face OriginalV,A1700m
- Eiger3970mNE face NE FaceLauper routeG12; V (mostly IV+, VI and III), 50-55°1700m, 15-18h
- Finsteraarhorn4274mNE FaceOstspornG9; IV+/V850m, 8-10h
- Fitzroy3440mSouth sideSupercanaletanccs VI 5.10b,A1 WI3; 5.10b,A1/6a,A2, WI3/85°1600m
- Pic Svobodnaya Korea4740mNorth faceBarberRus 5B; 60-70°800m/22 pitches
- Gletscherhorn3983mNorth faceReiss-Etter-JaunG11-12; 55°, V10-12h from Rottal hut
- Grand Capucin3838mEast faceBonatti routeV+/VI,A1/VIII/VIII+
350m
10h
- Grand Teton4199mWest face & the EnclosureBlack Ice Couloirnccs IV AI3+ 5.7; IV/AI3+, 5.7640m/15 pitches, 7-10h
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth faceThe ShroudRus 5A-6A; IV/4/Sco IV/75°-80°, avg.60°750m
- Grosshorn3754mNorth faceFeuz - von AlmenG10-11; average on 1000m 53°, 2 pitches 55-60°1200m, 10-12h
- Huantsan6369mWest sideNNW RidgeD+/TD-1000m, 2 days round trip from camp at 5500m (from Quebrada Shallap)
- Kusum Kanguru6369mNorth face North faceBall-CurtisTD+1500m, 4 days
- Königsspitze3851mNorth Face North faceErtl55-65°, IV (one passage)700m, 3-6h (climb itself)
- Jirishanca6094mWest FaceCassin60-70°, IV+750m
- Howser Tower3412mSouth Howser Tower South TowerBeckey-Chouinardnccs V 5.10a,A03,500', 15 pitches
- Innerkofler3098mNW face NW faceMisticaTD+; III/IV WI4+500m
- Jungfrau4158mNW sideLauper routeG9-10; 55°, IV9-10h from Silberhorn hut
- Les Courtes3856mNorth face North FaceAustrian RouteIII/AI1°/Sco II-III
800m
7-9h
- Les Courtes3856mNorth face North FaceSwiss RouteIV/3+°/Sco III-IV (3 pitches)/avg.54°
800m
8-10h
- Les Droites4000mNorth faceNE SpurRus 4B(?); 5c/V, mostly IV and III, V/4+/Sco IV/V/70°
1100m
12-15h
- Lobuje East6119mEast sideEast Face CouloirSco VOne day
- Long's PeakNE FaceCasual Route
- Mönch4107mNW faceLauper routeG9; IV/V-, 60+°1200m, 10-12h from Guggi hut
- Mont Blanc4808mGrand Pilier d'Angle Grand Pilier d'AngleBoivin-VallencantIV WI4/Sco IV/85-90°900m
- Mont Blanc4808mPeterey RidgePeuterey Ridge IntegralV+, mostly IV and V (S Ridge of Aiguille Noire), otherwise II and IV, V M5 AI1-2/50-60°
> 4500m
2-n days
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mEast faceAlbinoni-GabarrouIII/WI4+/85°600m
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mEast faceGervasutti PillarVI+ one place/A0, mostly V, V+ and VI-, WI3-
800m
7-10h
- Mont Maudit4465mEast facevoie CretierIV D+/58°, 4c/IV+
750m
7-10h from Trident Hut
- Mount Cook3754mSheila Face Central Buttress
- Mount Cook3754mCarolina FaceDenzNZ5-; 60-65°2000m
- Mount Kenya5199mSouth faceDiamond CouloirIV/WI4+/5, V-1000m/15-18 roped pitches, 9h (Darwin Glacier-Gate of Mists)
- Mount Kitchener3505mNorth faceRamp routenccs V 5.8,A11000m
- Mount Robson3945mEmperor FaceEmperor Ridgenccs V 5.62500m
- Obergabelhorn4063mNorth sideNorth FaceIV/AI2 M2/55°, III500m, 2,5-4h; 1250m from from Mountet hut.
- Petit Dru3750mNorth face North FaceOriginalV+850m
- Petit Dru3750mWest faceBonatti PillarVI,1/7a/VIII/VIII-600m
- Petites Jorasses3650mWest Face Original
- Pique Longue3298mNorth faceCouloir de GaubeIV/WI4+ M3+/70-85°600m
- Piz Badile3308mNE faceCassinnccs IV 5.9/Rus 5B/E5; VI+/V,A0/5c+/6a/5b,A0/5.10a-b800m, 22 pitches, 6-8h for the ridge, further 1-1,5h to the summit (5 pitches)
- Piz Palü3923mNorth faceBumiller PillarV (mostly III and IV), AI4-/60-90 (depending on the condition of the serac)°750m, 6-8h
- Singu Chuli6501mSouth RidgeSouth RidgeIV AD2300m
- Siula Grande6344mNE faceNorth ridgeIII, 55-70°800m
- Ullu-TauShield
|
ED1-3/ED; AS | extrêment difficile (extremely difficult). Very hard routes. Extreme difficulties in rock (UIAA VI+ - VIII-/f7), significant sections requiring aid climbing at A2 or harder not uncommon) and ice (ice grades 4-6/80-90°) or mixed terrain at M5 or harder and/or with exceptional objective danger. |
| - Aconcagua6959mSouth face South faceFrench route5.92462m
- Aiguille du Fou3501mSouth facevoie ClassiqueVII,A2/VIII+/7b/c350m
- Aiguille du Fou3501mSouth facevoie ClassiqueVIII+/7b/c350m
- Aiguilles des Pélerins3318mNorth face North FaceRebuffat-TerrayIV/WI5 M6/Sco VI,6550m
- Ben Nevis1343mOrion FaceOrion Face DirectIV WI4/5/Sco V,5400m (2-4h)
- Cerro Torre3127mEast faceCompressor Routenccs VI 5.10b,A2 70°; 6a,A2-3/5.10,A-2/VI,A2-3, 80°900m (27 roped pitches)
- Cerro Torre3127mWest FaceFerrari RouteVI/WI6/6+800m
- Tre Cime di LavaredoCima GrandeComici
- Tre Cime di LavaredoCima GrandeHasse-Brandler
- Eiger3970mLes Portes du Chaos
- Eiger3970mNorth face North face1938 RouteG14; V-,A0, 50-70°1800m, 20-30h
- El Capitan2307mSW faceThe Shieldnccs VI 5.9,A3; 6a800m
- Fitzroy3440mSouth sideCalifornia RouteV/V+,A1/6b/c
- Fitzroy3440mSouth sideFranco-Argentine50-60°, VI+,A2/VII+300m/6 pitches of ice + 650m/14 pitches of rock
- Pic Svobodnaya Korea4740mNorth faceBagaevRus 5B; 70°, 5.9,A2800m
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth faceColton-McIntyreVI/WI5 AI3 M6/90°, A31200m
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth faceCroz SpurV+, 60°
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth faceWalker SpurG13/Rus 5B; VI-,A1/VII- (often VI, VI- and V+), 60°
1200m, length 1800m
12-15h
- Great Sail PeakRubiconnccs VI 5.11a,A41150m
- Gross Fiescherhorn4049mFiescherwandNorth Face DirectIV, 65°1300m, 10-12h
- Grossglockner3798mEisnase "Theo-Riml-Gedenkanstieg"
- Jirishanca6094mSE faceFear and LoathingVII/WI6+/Sco VII++, A21050m, 25 pitches
- Kilimanjaro5895mBreach wallBreach Wall DirectV/WI6900m
- Les Droites4000mNorth faceCornuau-DavailleIV/4+/Sco IV-V/70°, avg.60°, 5c,A1/V,A1
1050m
10-20h
- Les Droites4000mNorth face North FaceLa GinatIV/WI5/Sco V,51050m
- Les Droites4000mNorth face North FaceVoie JacksonV/WI5+/Sco V/90°, constantly 60°-80°
1050m
12-20h
- Grande Dru3753mNorth faceCouloir Nord des DrusV/WI5/80°, 5c,A1-2
750m
10-20h
- Matterhorn4478mNorth Face North FaceSchmidG12; IV+/V, M5 AI1-2/55°1100m, 10-12h
- Matterhorn4478mNorth Face North FaceZmuttnaseG16; VI+,A3, AI1/50°1218m, 2-3 days
- Mont Blanc4808mPeuterey faceCentral Pillar of FrêneyVI,A1/7a/VIII/VIII+500m
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mEast faceSupercouloir DirectIV WI4-6 M6/Sco V/85°, 5c,A1
800m
8-10h
- Mount Kitchener3505mNorth faceGrand Central Couloirnccs V 5.9 AI4; V/AI4 M6 VS, 5.91000m, 8-16h
- Mount Andromeda3450mNorth side N FaceAndromeda Strainnccs V 5.9,A2 WI41400m total
- Mount Alberta3619mNorth FaceNorth Facenccs VI 5.9,A3 WI41000m
- Mount Alberta3619mNorth FaceNorth FaceWI5+ M8 R/X1000m
- Mount Robson3945mEmperor Face Emperor FaceStump-Logannccs VI 5.9,A2
- Mount Robson3945mEmperor Face Emperor FaceInfinite Patiencenccs VI WI5 M5 5.9; WI5 M5, 5.92200m
- Petit Dru3750mWest faceAmerican Direct6c,A0/5.10+,A0/VI,A0/VII1000m
- Petit Dru3750mWest faceAmerican DirectA3/A4/7a+,A0/VIII/VIII+,A0600m
- Petit Dru3750mWest faceAmerican DirectissimaA3/A4/7a+,A0/VIII/VIII+,A0600m
- Siula Grande6344mWest faceTouching the VoidSco VI/90°1000m/27 pitches
- ScheidegwetterhornWest Pillar Direct5.91000m
- Taulliraju5830mSW face South-East Buttressvia Italiana5.9,A1, VI/WI6 M6/75-80°900m
- Trollryggen1742mTrollveggen TrollveggenRussian Routenccs VI 5.10,A4/Rus 6B; 6+,A41150m
- Hot-red-chili-pepper7a,A4300m
- Vågakallen942mNorth face North FaceScottish routeSco V/VI800m
|
ED4-5/ABO; EX | abominablement difficile (abominably difficult)/exceptionellement difficile (exceptionally difficult). Horrible... Everything that ED1-3 has to offer and more of it. Typically UIAA VIII/f7 or more on the rock, significant sections of hard aid (A3 and upwards) are typical; grade 5 or harder on ice (90+°), often with difficult mixed sections. |
| - Aiguille du Fou3501mSouth Face
- Aiguille du Midi3842mSouth face South FaceMa Daltonnccs V 5.12c; 7b+/IX-/V,A1120m
- Cerro Torre3127mSouth sideSouth Facenccs VII 5.11 A4 75°1300m
- Eiger3970mGeneva Pillar North faceGelber Engel6c/VII+/VIII-/5.11a1100m
- Eiger3970mNorth face
- Eiger3970mNorth face North faceHarlin DirectRus 6B; V+,A3/M8- 5.11+/5.12- R, 85°1800m
- Eiger3970mNorth face, Geneva PillarSymphonie de liberté
- Eiger3970mNorth faceJapanese Direttissima7c+/8a/X-/VI,A2/5.9,A3/5.13b, M51800m
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth face North FaceDirecte de l'AmitieVI,A2/3
- Mont Blanc4808mGrand Pilier d'Angle Grand Pilier d'AngleDivine Providence7c+/5.12d/VII/VII+,A2/3; very sustained at V+, VI, VI+900m, total 1500m
- Mount Hunter4442mNorth side North Buttressthe KnowledgeAK6; AI6, 5.7,A2+1200m
- North Twin3684mNorth Face North faceLowe-Jonesnccs VI 5.10,A34,500'
- Piz Badile3308mNW face NW faceJumar Iscariota6c,A1/VII+,A1 (VII obl.)450m, 11 pitches, 10-12h
- Signalkuppe4554mSE face East FaceGabarrou90, M°, VII+/6c1250m
|
G-grade (Bernese Alps)
The G-grading system used in Bernese Alps is designed to indicate overall difficulty and seriousness of climbing routes (hiking routes are graded with BW1 - BW3). It consists of 20 grades, with mid-point cotated i.e. G6-7 (meaning G6,5). The grade is a product of following primary factors:
- technical difficulty
- alpine character: including altitude, creavsses, dependability of conditions, exposition.
- objective hazards
- physical demands/length of the route
The grade formed concerning the primary factors may then be rounded up or down based on the following secondary factors:
- number and length of difficult sections
- quality of rock
- in-situ gear
- protection possibilities
- retreat options
- descent options
- popularity of a route
- difficulty of route-finding
More emphasis is given on the seriousness and scale of the climb as is the case with IFAS-system. Mixed routes are typically graded harder than pure rock routes. On popular ice/snow routes the grade is given assuming there's a spur. If this is not the case, the grade could be (slightly) harder.
Grade | Examples |
---|
G1 | (~F) |
| - Bishorn4153mNW Flank,
- Breithorn4164mWest summit, North sideSW flankAD1300m, 5h from Gandegghütte
- Breithorn4164mWest summit, SW sideSW flankF/PD-; 35°350m, 1-2h
- Galdhøpiggen2469mNE sidefrom JuvashyttaI F650m, 3,5h, 5,5km
- Glittertind2465mWest sidefrom SpiterstulenF1350m
- Hochferner3463mTraverse from HochfeilerG1-2950m
- Marmolada di Penia3343mWest ridgeWest ridgePD; I3,5h
- OberaletschhütteG1
- Rohrbachstein2950m
- Similaun3606mWest ridgeWest ridgeG1-2600m, 1-2h
- SäntisNorth Ridge1150m
|
G2 | (~F+/PD-) |
| - Gran Paradiso4061mWest faceWest FlankPD-; 35°, II1350m, 4-5h
- Grosser Möseler3480mNorth sideFrom West via S RidgePD-; I and II (short passage), 35°1200m, 3,5h
- Grossvenediger3666mNorth sideNorth routeF+; 35°
- Doldenhorn3638mNW sideNW faceII PD; 45°1700m, 5-6h
- Hochfeiler3509mSW sideSW RidgeF/PD-; I (short passage)950m, 3h
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mNorth faceNorth-west faceII/PD-/Rus 2A; II/AI1/40°
700m
2,5-3h
- Monte Leone3553mWest sideWSW RidgeF/PD/E2; II/3a, 35°700m/1500m, 5h from Simplonpass (2005m), 4h from Monte Leone hut.
- Mount Hood3428.8mSouth sidePalmer glaciernccs II 35°1600m
- Store Ringstind2124m
- Store SmørstabbtindNorth Ridge
- Storebjørn2222mNorth sideSmørstabbreen via north flankPD; 40-45°950m
- Strahlhorn4190mWest ridgeWest ridgeF+/PD1250m, 4-5h from Britannia hut. 2h longer from Berghaus Flüe
- Watzmann2713mNorth ridgetraverseII (via ferrata)2500m, 10-15h, 26km (1-2 days)
- Wildhorn3248m
From WildhornhütteII F/PD1540m, 3-3,5h
- Wildstrubel3243mSE sideEast flankE1 F/T4/E1780m, 2,5-3h
- Zugspitze2962mNE RidgeHöllentalsteigF+; via ferrata C7-8h, 2200m
|
G3 | (~PD) |
| - Aiguille d'Argentière3901mWest faceMilieu GlacierII PD+; II/PD+°/50°
1200m, 400 of them 35°-40° steep
4-5h
- Aletschhorn4193mSE sideSE face and NE ridgeII PD/PD+; 40°, I-II on the final ridge1190m, 4-5h
- Finsteraarhorn4274mWest sideSW Face and NW RidgeII AD-/Rus 2A; II and I, 35°1250m, 4-5h in ascent, 2-2,5h in descent
- Gross Fiescherhorn4049mSouth sideSüdostgratPD; II and I780m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch. From Konkordia hut 1350m, from Finsteraarhorn hut 1000m.
- Gross Grünhorn4044mWest sidevia Grünegghorn and SW RidgeII PD; 40°, III- and II4,5-5h from Konkordia hut
- Grossglockner3798mEast sideNormal RouteII PD; 35°, II344m, 1,5h from Erzherzog-Johannshütte
- Hoher Dachstein2995mEast FaceRandkluftsteigII/Via ferrata B/C250m
- Jungfrau4158mEast sideNormal route from RottalsattelII PD+/AD/Rus 2B-3A; 55°, III850m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch
- Mönch4107mSouth sideESE RidgeII AD-; II, 45°650m, 2,5-3h from Jungfraujoch, 450m, 2-3h from Mönchjochs hut
- Mount Rainier4394mEast sideEmmons-Winthrop Glaciernccs II-III 30°10,000'
- Piz Buin3312mWest sideWest Ridge45°1700m, 6,5h
- Piz Palü3923mEast ridgeEast ridge via East summitII-III PD/G3-4; 40°950m, 4,5h from Diavolezza Hut
|
G4 | (~PD+/AD-) |
| - Aletschhorn4193mSouth sideSW ribAD-; II1700m, 7-8h
- LyskammEast ridge
- Aletschhorn4193mSouth sideSE ridgeAD-; II1600m, 7-8h
- Barre des Écrins4102mNorth faceNorth Face & West RidgeIII PD+/nccs II; 40°, II, mostly I1060m, 4h from Refuge des Écrins (3175m)
- Dufourspitze4634mNorth sideN Face and W RidgeIII AD-; 3a/II+, mostly I, III/AI1/40°1840m, 5-7h in ascent, 4h in descent.
- Eiger3970mWest ridgeWest FlankIV AD; III-1650m. 6-8h in ascent, 3-4h in descent.
- Eiger3970mSE faceSouth RidgeD; III5-6h from Mönchjoch
- Gross Fiescherhorn4049mNorth RidgeFieschergratAD-; 50-55°, III650m, 3-5h from Mönchjoch hut
- Gross Grünhorn4044mWest sideWest Ridge from EwigschneefeldAD+1600m, 6-7h
- Königsspitze3851mEast sideEast Flank45-50°650m, 3h
- Mönch4107mSouth sideSW RidgeII AD; III+550m, 3-4h from Jungfraujoch
- Mont Blanc4808mNorth faceGrands MuletsPD; 40°
From téléphérique station Plan de l'Aiguille (2310m) to the Grands Mulets Hut 800m, summit climb 1776m
From téléphérique station Plan de l'Aiguille to the Grands Mulets Hut 3h, summit climb 6-7h
- Monte Disgrazia3678mNW RidgePreda RossaPD+/AD; III, mostly II and I, 45°1100m, 4-5h from the hut.
- Ortler3905mSE sideHintergratIV PD+/AD; II+-III,A0, 45°550m/1240m, 5-6h from Hintergrat Hut
- Ortler3905mSE sideHintergratIII, 45°
- Piz Roseg3937mNW Ridge via Agugliouls-saddle
|
G5 | (~AD) |
| - Aconcagua6959mNW sideRuta NormalF/NZ2; I, 40°2730m, 5-9 days
- Aletschhorn4193mNorth faceHasler RibAD+; 50°, II700m to NE Ridge, further 500m to summit. 7-8h from Lötschen hut, 0,75h longer from Konkordia hut.
- Aletschhorn4193mNW sideWestnordwestgratAD+/D; III6-8h from Oberaletsch hut
- Dent Blanche4357mSouth RidgeWandlügratIV AD; III, 35°850m, 3-6h from Dent Blache hut
- Doldenhorn3638mNorth sideGalletgratE3 AD+/III AD+; III/AD/45°, 3b/III/II,A0
5-6h from Fründen hut in good conditions and if there's ready spur
When blank ice or no spur 7-8h (G6)
- Eiger3970mNE faceMitteleggigratIII D/nccs IV 5.8,A0; IV,A0615m/820m, 4-8h from Mitteleggi hut.
- Gross Grünhorn4044mSE sideSE Ridge & FaceD; III1000m, 4-6h from Finsteraarhorn hut.
- Jungfrau4158mSW sideInnerer RottalgratIII D; III1400m, 6-7h from Rottal hut
- Matterhorn4478mEast FaceHörnligratIII AD-/E4/NZ3+/4/nccs III; III,A0/3a1200m, climbing distance 1700m, 5-6h from Hörnlihut (3260m)
- Nesthorn3821mNNE RidgeNordostgratAD+/D-; III8-9h
- Schreckhorn4078mSW Ridge via Schrecksattel
- Weisshorn6882mEast Ridge
- Wetterhorn3692mNW Ridge via Chrinne and Gutzgletscher
|
G6 | (~AD+/D) |
| - Grand Cornier3962mNW ridgeNW RidgeIII AD-; 3b/III1150m
- Gross Grünhorn4044mWest sideNordwestgratD; IV (short passage), otherwise III750m, 3h from Lücke, 1200m7-7,5h from Konkordia hut (2850m), 3-4h from Klein Grünnhorn
- Matterhorn4478mSouth FaceLiongratIII AD/D/Rus 4A/B; III,A0/IV650m/1680m, 5h from Carrell hut to summit
- Mönch4107mNW faceNollenIII D; III/AI2/60-65°1310m, 6-8h from Guggi Hut
- Piz Bernina4049mNorth ridgeBiancogratIII AD/AD+/E4; 45-50°, III/III+600m 4h (ridge itself), 1450m, 7-8h from Tschierva Hut
|
G7 | (~D/D+) |
| |
G8 | (~D+/TD) |
| - Alphubel4206mSouth sideSouth FlankD; III+/IV650m
- Doldenhorn3638mEast ridgeOstgratD+; V-8-10h
- Dufourspitze4634mSouth sideCresta ReyAD+; 3a/III- and II400m, 3h; 1330m, 5,6-8h from Gnifetti hut; 700m, 5,5-6h from Margherita hut, 1800m, 8-9h from Monte Rosa hut
- Ebneflüh3962mNorth faceAschenbrenner-MarinerIV TD-; 50-55°, avg. 52°750m, 4-6h
- Gross Grünhorn4044mSE sideOstpfeilerTD; V-650m, 7-11h (actual climb), 1400m from the hut
- Grosshorn3754mNorth faceLauper RouteTD; V (1 pitch)1500m, 9-10h from Schmadri hut
- Jungfrau4158mNordostgrat
- Lauteraarhorn4042mEast sideOstwandrippeD; IV1000m/1600m, 10-12h from Lauteraar hut
- Rinderhorn3448mNorth sideNorth faceG7-88h from Hotel Schwarenbach
- Schreckhorn4078mNorth sideNE AreteIV (passages) and III, avg. 50°500m. 3-4h from the begin of the climb, 8-10h from Gleckstein and Lauteraarhorn huts
- Studerhorn3638mNordwand
- Zinalrothorn4221mSouth SideRothorngratIII AD+/D/E4; 4c/IV and III+370m, 3-4h from Oberrotjoch. 1100m, 7h from Rothorn hut
|
G9 | (~TD-/TD) |
| - Dent d'Hérens4174mEast RidgeEast RidgeD; IV and III700m, climbing distance 2km, 8-10h from Col Tournauche
- Finsteraarhorn4274mNE FaceOstspornED; IV+/V850m, 8-10h
- Gross Fiescherhorn4049mFiescherwandNE RibTD+; IV+ (passages), mostly IV and III1000m, 8-12h
- Jungfrau4158mNW sideLauper routeTD; 55°, IV9-10h from Silberhorn hut
- Matterhorn4478mWest FaceZmuttgratD; 3c/IV and III, 50°1200m, 7-9h from Hörnlihut
- Mönch4107mNW face North FaceLauper routeTD; IV/V-, 60+°1200m, 10-12h from Guggi hut
|
G10 | (~TD) |
| |
G11 | (~TD+) |
| |
G12 | (~TD+/ED1 |
| |
G13 | (~ED1-2) |
| |
G14 | (~ED2) |
| - Eiger3970mNorth face North face1938 RouteV ED2; V-,A0, 50-70°1800m, 20-30h
|
G15-20 | (~ED3-5) |
| - Eiger3970mNorth face, Geneva PillarLes Portes du Chaos
- Eiger3970mNorth face, Geneva PillarSymphonie de liberté
- Eiger3970mNorth face
- Eiger3970mNorth face North faceHarlin DirectED3/4/Rus 6B; V+,A3/M8- 5.11+/5.12- R, 85°1800m
- Eiger3970mGeneva Pillar North faceYetiABO-; 7c/7c+/6c+,A1/7c,A0/5.10a,A2/VIII-,A21000m
- Eiger3970mNorth faceJapanese DirettissimaED+/ABO; 7c+/8a/X-/VI,A2/5.9,A3/5.13b, M51800m
- Matterhorn4478mNorth Face North FaceZmuttnaseED+; VI+,A3, AI1/50°1218m, 2-3 days
|
Alaska grade
Because of Alaska's often horrible weather conditions (severe storms, cold, altitude, and extensive cornices) Boyd Everett Jr. introduced a unique grading system to indicate the seriousness of climbs in his 1966 paper "The Organization of an Alaskan Expedition." In the Alaska system, each ascending grade incorporates all the elements of the grades that precede it. Alaska grade system emphasises overall seriousness. Factors affecting this are time required to do the route, bivouac options, length of route, technical difficulty, how sustained the route is, descent and retreat options. Thus some routes with no or little technical difficulties may get a higher grade, if speed and avalanche awareness are keys to success on the route. "+" and "-" may be used to denote slight differences in difficulty.
Grade | Examples |
---|
AK1 | Moderate with no technical difficulties (approximately max. YDS 3-4th class). Grade 1 routes are simple glacier ascents with no technical difficulties and can usually be climbed from base camp in a day. (~F-PD (longer routes), AD (shorter climbs), NCCS I-II). |
| |
AK2 | Moderate with no serious technical difficulties aside from knife-edges, high altitude, and weather. Typically multiday climbs featuring technical difficulties roughly equivalent of YDS 3-4th class or one day climbs featuring low 5th class. (~PD-AD, NCCS II-IV). |
| |
AK3 | Moderate to hard with mild technical climbing, steep sections, and cornicing. Multiday climbs have typically technical difficulties equivalent of YDS 4th or low 5th class. One day climbs may have difficulties at harder 5th class. (~AD/-D, NCCS IV-V). |
| |
AK4 | Hard to difficult multiday climbs involving more sustained climbing. Also routes with significant cornice problems. Furthermore, routes with considerable cornice problems and technical difficulty with long stretches of easy terrain are usually given Alaskan Grade 4. (~D-TD, NCCS IV-V). |
| - Denali6190.5mNW faceNW Buttress of North summit65°, low 5th class13,000', 27km.
- Denali6190.5mWest sideWest RimAI3/70°4000m from base camp
- Denali6190.5mWickersham Wall Wickersham WalHarvard Route50°, 5.5,A115,000'
- Mount Foraker5304mNorth side N SideArchangel RidgeAK411,000'
- Mount Hunter4442mWest sideWest Ridgenccs IV AI3 5.8; V/AI3/70°, 5.8,A32440m, 7-10 days on route
|
AK5 | Difficult with sustained technical climbing and open bivouacs. Requires high level of commitment with sustained technical difficulties. (~TD-ED, NCCS V-VI). |
| |
AK6 | Extremely committing multiday climbs with typically poor retreat options. Very long sections with technical difficulties. (~ED-ED5, NCCS VI-VII). |
| - Denali6190.5mSouth face South faceCzech DirectWI6 M5/100°, 5.9/V+2700m
- Denali6190.5mSE side South ButtressRidge of No Return5.9,A3
- Denali6190.5mSW faceSW face5.9,A38,000'/4000m from base camp
- Mount Foraker5304mSouth side S sideInfinite Spurnccs VII 5.9 AI4; VII/AI4/85°, 5.99,000'/60-80 roped pitches to the south summit
- Mount Hunter4442mNorth side North ButtressMoonflowerVI AI6 M6/Sco 7, 5.9,A32100m, 7-10 days on route
- Mount Hunter4442mSouth sideSE SpurAK65,800'
- Mount Logan5959mSouth side S RidgeHummingbird Ridgenccs VII AI4; VII/AI44000m, 9km
|
North American Alpine Grade
North American Alpine Grading (or NCCS) system tries to combine technical and other difficulties of a given route to a single number representing an estimate of how long a competent party will take to complete the route. Like is the case with many other alpine grading systems, this overall grade is often used together with technical grade to give more complete picture of the climb. The system is often used to grade big wall routes also on other areas.
Time required for a route is highly subjective, however. Many routes that have traditionally taken several days, or even weeks, have been completed in a day or two. For example the first ascent of the Nose on El Capitan (mega classic grade VI climb in Yosemite, California) took 45 days in 1958. The same route was completed in a day in 1975 and 4,5 hours in 1992.
Sometimes the climbs have technical rock grade for a technical grade even if the route's principal technical difficulties are on ice or snow. For example The Regular North Face of Mount Athabasca is graded III 5.4 (involved 52 degree snow/ice).
Because NCCS grades give more emphasis to the length of a climb than French adjectival system, especially grades I-III can be just about anything in a French adjectival scale.
Grade | Examples |
---|
I | Several hours, any technical difficulty. (~F-AD/D) |
| |
II | A half day, any technical difficulty. (~PD-D) |
| |
III | Most of a day for the technical part of the route, any technical difficulty. (~PD-D) |
| - Bugaboo Spire3186mSouth side South sideKain routeIII AD
- Condoriri5648mSW sideSW RidgeIV AD/AD+; 40-50°, III/5.3-5.4400m
- Elbrus5642mWest Peak West PeakSouthern routeRus 2A/PD-; 35-40°1540m, 6-8h from Eleven Hut in ascent, 4-5h in descent.
- Elbrus5642mEast Peak West PeakSouthern routeRus 2A/PD-1540m, 6-8h from Eleven Hut.
- Forbidden Peak2688mWest sideWest RidgeAD5,600'
- Galenstock3586mGalengratGalengrat-Verschneidung5c/5a,A0/V300m, 10 pitches
- Grand Teton4199mSouth side South SideExum RidgeIII AD+/D; 5.7-5.8/5a/IV+/V450m/2197m, 6 pitches. 8h for Lower Exum ridge (to summit), 5-6h for Upper Exum Ridge.
- Grand Teton4199mSouth side South SideExum RidgeIII AD+; 4c/IV640m/2650m
- Half Dome2695mSouth sideSnake DikeD; 5a250m (8 pitches), 3-4h
- Huyana Potosi6088East facevia de los Franceses
- Illampu6368mSW sideSW ridgeIV AD/D800m
- Illimani6438mPico Norte, south sideGerman route
- Imja Tse6183mSouth sideSE Flank & SW RidgeIII PD/PD+; 45°1000m
- Ishinca5530mNW sideNW SlopesPD-700/1130m, 5-6h
- Long's PeakEast faceKiener's route
- Matterhorn4478mEast Face NE RidgeHörnligratIII AD-/G5/E4/NZ3+/4; III,A0/3a1200m, climbing distance 1700m, 5-6h from Hörnlihut (3260m)
- Mont Blanc4808mMiage faceAiguilles GrisesIII PD+ (glacier variation)/PD (non-glacier-variation)/Rus 2A/B; III AI1/40°, II1736m, 7-8h
- Mount Adams3743mAdams GlacierIII 45°1350m
- Mount Aspiring3033mSouthwest Ridge
- Mount Athabasca3491mNorth Face North FaceHourglassD-7-8 pitches
- Mount Athabasca3491mNorth Face North FaceSilberhornAD
- Mount Athabasca3491mNorth FaceRegular North FaceD-; 52°7-8 pitches
- Mount Baker4844mNorth Ridge
- Mount Buckner2779mNorth FaceNorth FaceIII 40-50°1,300'
- Mount Edith Cavell3363mEast sideEast RidgeD
- Mount Fay3234mNorth face
- Mount Hood3428.8mSandy Glacier HeadwallIII 50°1000m
- Mount Katahdin1606mNorth side S BasinArmadillo ButtressIII 5.8
- Petit Meeker4240mDreamweaver couloirIII AI2+ M21,500'
- Mount Mendell4179mNorth faceMendel Couloir60-65°330m, 10 pitches
- Mount Rainier4394mEast sideEmmons-Winthrop GlacierG310,000'
- Mount Rainier4394mSouth sideKautz glacierIII 50-60°10,800'
- Mount Shuksan2784mPrice GlacierIII class 4-3 AI36,700'
- Mount Shuksan2784mSouth sideSulphide GlacierPD-6,400'
- Mount Stuart2871mNorth sideNorth RidgeIII 5.44,500'
- Mount Washington1917mHuntington ravine Huntington RavineNortheast Ridge of PinnacleIII 5.75-6 pitches
- Mount Washington1917mHuntington ravine Huntington RavinePinnacle GullyD; III/WI2+/3/80°/NEI 3200m/1300m
- Mount Whitney4421m
East FaceAD; 5b/5a,A01,000'/5,860'
- Nevado Sajama6550mWest sideSW RidgeAD; 55°1100m
- Pequeno Alpamayo5400mWSW RidgeIII PD250m
- Petit Grepon3658mSW CornerIII 5.9
- Pico de Orizaba5636mNorth side north sideGlacier de JamapaIII PD-1350m
- Polemonium Peak4292mV-notch couloirII/AI2 WI3/50-60°300m
- Sir Donald3284m/10,772NW Ridge
- The Spearhead3833mNorth RidgeIII 5.6
- Tocllaraju5980mNW RidgeNW RidgeIII AD+/D; 50-55° (100m, rimaye wall 60-70°)°1032m, 5-7h. 2 days round trip from BC
- Tofana di Rozes3225mPrimo Spigolo
- Urus Este5420mSouth faceSE slopes to east ridgeIII PD-; 45-50°1040m, 5-6h from BC
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IV | A very long day. Most difficult pitch is rated at least YDS 5.7. (~D/TD-) |
| - Aconcagua6959mEast sidePolish TraverseF/AK22762m, Two or three high camps usual
- Aiguille du Peigne3192mSW faceVoie ContamineIII TD; 6a/5c,A0400m
- Bugaboo Spire3186mNorth sideNorth-East RidgeD-450m
- Carstenz Pyramid4884mHarrer
- Condoriri5648mSE FaceSE Face DirettissimaD+350m
- Denali6190.5mWest sideWest ButtressAK2+/NZ2/Rus 5A/VI AD+; 50°4000m from base camp
- Devil's Thumb2777mEast sideEast RidgeIV 5.8 AI4750m, 2-3 days
- Eiger3970mNE faceMitteleggigratIII D/G5; IV,A0615m/820m, 4-8h from Mitteleggi hut.
- El Altar5319mEl ObispoItalian route
- Fairview Dome2966mRegular routeIV 5.9300m
- Grand Teton4199mNorth face North sideRoute CanalIV IW5, 5.91048m/2230m. 8-12h.
- Grand Teton4199mWest face & the Enclosure West FaceEnclosure couloirD-; AI3, 5.7/V640m, 12 pitches. 7-9h.
- Grand Teton4199mWest face & the Enclosure West FaceBlack Ice CouloirTD-/TD; IV/AI3+, 5.7640m/15 pitches, 7-10h
- Grand Teton4199mNorth faceNorth FaceVI-1048m/2230m
- Grand Teton4199mNorth faceNorth RidgeV-1048m/2230m
- Graue Wand3172mSouth faceNiedermannIV TD-; 5c+/VI400m, 11 pitches, 4-5h
- Huascarán Sur6746mWest side West SlopeGargantaPD/AD; II, 45°6-8h from Garganta. 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho
- Huyana Potosi6088West FaceLaba-Hudson
- Huyana Potosi6088West Facevia de Lyon
- Long's PeakAlexander's Chimney/The Notch
- Long's PeakNE FaceCasual Route
- Mount Andromeda3450mNorth side N Ridge CouloirShooting GalleryD+; IV/WI4 M51400m (total)
- Mount Hunter4442mWest sideWest RidgeAK4+; V/AI3/70°, 5.8,A32440m, 7-10 days on route
- Mount Katahdin1606mNorth sideCilley-BarberIV WI4/NEI NEI 4
- Mount Kenya5199mSouth face SE FaceMcInder's routeIV D-; III+/IV-, mostly III300m/20 pitches), 5h to Nelion, round trip to Batian additional 3h.
- Mount Mendell4179mNorth faceIce NineIV AI4/WI5, 5th class330m
- Mount Rainier4394mNorth sideLiberty RidgeD; III-IV/AI2/50°1300m
- Mount Robson3945mNorth face NE RidgeFuhrer RidgeD+; 5.4670m/2290m. 3-4 days from car to car.
- Mount Robson3945mEast side NE FaceKain FaceD/NZ3+/4; 48°250m/2290m
- Mount Robson3945mNorth faceNorth FaceD+; 55°850m/2290m. 3-4 days from car to car.
- Mount Robson3945mWest face West FaceWishbone areteIV 5.62950m, usually 3 days.
- Mount Shuksan2784mNorth FaceNorth FaceIV 50°2,000'
- Mount Stuart2871mNorth sideStuart Glacier couloirIII AI2 5th class1,200'
- Mount Temple3543mEast RidgeEast RidgeIV 5.7 40°Classic ridge climb, one of the 50 Classic climbs of North America. Both longer and more serious than East ridge of Edith Cavell.
- Mount Temple3543mNorth face North FaceElzinga-MillerIV 5.7,A1
- North Palisade4341mU-Notch & Chimney variationAD300m
- Rasac6017mEast sideEast FaceAD+; WI4, II-III/5.6400m
- Shiprock2188mWest face West faceStandard routeRus 3B550m, 5h
- Tre Cime di LavaredoCima GrandeComici
- Tre Cime di LavaredoWestliche ZinneCassin-Ratti
- Washington Column1813mAstroman7a/6b,A012 pitches
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V | A climb of one-and-a-half to two days, at least one bivouac required. Most difficult pitch is rated at least YDS 5.8. (~TD/ED-). |
| - Aiguille du Midi3842mSouth face South FaceMa DaltonABO-; 7b+/IX-/V,A1120m
- Devil's Thumb2777mSouth sideSouth PillarV 5.10,A2
- Grand Teton4199mWest face & the EnclosureNorthwest RidgeV1433m, 2 days from Cascade Canyon
- Howser Tower3412mSouth Howser TowerBeckey-ChouinardTD+3,500', 15 pitches
- La Esfinge5325mEast face1985 routeED; VI+,A1/5.10,C1-2/5.11c/6c-/7a/6a,A1(f6c+)750m, 18 pitches
- Liberty Bell2360mLiberty Crack5.13b12 pitches
- Moose's Tooth3150mSouth sideHam and Eggs CouloirAK3+; WI4 M4900m
- Mount Andromeda3450mNorth side N FaceAndromeda StrainED11400m total
- Mount Kitchener3505mNorth face North FaceGrand Central CouloirED; V/AI4 M6 VS, 5.91000m, 8-16h
- Mount Kitchener3505mNorth face North FaceRamp routeTD+1000m
- Mount Rainier4394mWillis Wall
- Mount Robson3945mEmperor Face NW RidgeEmperor RidgeTD2500m
- Mount Stuart2871mNorth sideGirth Pillar
- Mount Temple3543mNorth face North FaceGreenwood-LockeTD+; 5.8,A2/5.9 M61200m
- Snowdome3456mEast faceSlipstreamVI/WI4+/80°925m
- Tofana di Rozes3225mPilastro
- Vågakallen942mStorpillaren (north face)Original
- Moonlight ButtressV 5.12+9 pitches, 1,200'
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VI | Two or more days, several bivouacs required. Typically includes difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing. (~ED1-5, AK 5-6). |
| - Ak-Su5355mNorth face North FaceMoshnikov's routeED/Rus 6B; 5.10,A31500m
- Cerro Torre3127mEast faceCompressor RouteED-/ED1; 6a,A2-3/5.10,A-2/VI,A2-3, 80°900m (27 roped pitches)
- El Capitan2307mSW faceThe Nose950m
- El Capitan2307mSW faceThe ShieldED2; 6a800m
- Fitzroy3440mSouth side West faceSupercanaletaTD+/ED-; 5.10b,A1/6a,A2, WI3/85°1600m
- Great Trango Tower6286mWest summit, NW face NW FaceRussian routeRus 6B2675m, 66 pitches
- Howse Peak3290mEast sideM-16ED++1000,
- Kusum Kanguru6369mNorth face North FaceBlanchardVI/AI5+
- Kjerag1084mThe Shield
- Kwangde6187mHungo face Kwangde Lho, Hungo FaceLowe-BreashearsED2; VII/WI6 X1400m
- Mount Alberta3619mNorth FaceNorth FaceED31000m
- Mount Alberta3619mNorth FaceNorth FaceWI5+ M8 R/X1000m
- Mount Chephren3266mThe Wild ThingVI 5.9+,A3 WI53-4 days
- Mount Foraker5304mSouth sideInfinite SpurAK6; VII/AI4/85°, 5.99,000'/60-80 roped pitches to the south summit
- Mount Huntington3731mWest face West FaceHarvard routeAK5; 5.9,A23730m
- Mount Robson3945mEmperor Face Emperor FaceCheesmond-DickED
- Mount Robson3945mEmperor Face Emperor FaceStump-LoganED
- Mount Robson3945mEmperor Face Emperor FaceInfinite PatienceED3; WI5 M5, 5.92200m
- North Twin3684mNorth Face North faceLowe-JonesED3/44,500'
- Taulliraju5830mSW face SE Buttressvia ItalianaVI ED2; 5.9,A1, VI/WI6 M6/75-80°900m
- Trollryggen1742mTrollveggen TrollveggenNorwegian RouteNor VI+, 7-,A01200m
- Trollryggen1742mTrollveggen TrollveggenRussian RouteRus 6B/ED; 6+,A41150m
- Trollryggen1742mTrollveggen TrollveggenRimmon routeNor VI+, 6+900m
- Trollryggen1742mTrollveggen TrollveggenSwedish routeNor IV+, 7-/Nor IV+, 6,A2; 6a1000m
- Vågakallen942mNorth face Storpillaren (north face)FreyaVI 5.12+,A3800m/20 pitches
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VII | |
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New Zealand Alpine Grading
The grading system used to grade alpine climbs in New Zealand Alps resembles the one used in European Alps as it tries to combine numerous factors to indicate overall difficulty of a route. Factors affecting the grade are (in desceding order of importance): technical difficulty, objective danger, length and access. The system is open ended ranging traditionally from 1 to 6. Recently grades of 7 and 8 have been proposed. "+" and "-" can be used to refine the grade. On some routes, crux rock pitch, or, less often, all rock pitches, are given an Ewbank (that is to say Australian) rock grade. Alternatively, Yosemite Desimal system may be used to grade technical difficulty of rock climbing.
Grade | Examples |
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NZ1 | Easy scramble. (~F) |
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NZ2 | Steeper sections may require a rope. (~PD) |
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NZ3 | Longer steeper sections. Ice climbs require generally two tools. (~PD+/AD) |
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NZ4 | Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently is necessary. Involves a long day. (~D) |
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NZ5 | Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice. (~D+/TD) |
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NZ6 | Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude ans solid technique are prerequisites. May require bivouac on route and be far away from civilisation. (~TD/ED) |
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NZ7 | (ED) |
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Scottish grading system
On British Isles, Scottish system is applied to grade winter climbs. The system is also used in British guidebooks covering the Alps to grade crux pitches of alpine routes. The system is introduced with Ice climbing grading systems.
Russian alpine grade
In Russia and other parts of former Soviet Union, Russian scale is used. The system consists of two parts:
- Overall grade (CC, Category of Complexity, Kategoriya Slozhnosty) considers mainly the scale and complexity of the selected route. Thus deciding factors are(among others) altitude gain of the route, altitude of the summit, position of the key sections and time it takes of a competent party to climb the route. The scale runs from 1A (close to trekking) to 6B (mountaineering expedition). The scale runs from 1A to 6B. Normal route of Mount Elbrus is graded 2A (basic snow ascent on a 5642m meter peak, IFAS PD-). 6A is considered to be roughly as difficult as ED while 6B is domain of really desperate big routes, often on high mountains, for example Japanese Route on the North Ridge of K2 is graded 6B. This part is often used alone.
- Besides the overall grade, separate grade for the sections of the climb may be used to indicate technical difficulty. This difficulty grade is abbreviated CD (Category of Difficulty, Kategoriya Trudnosti). The scale runs from NC to 3b.
It is worthwhile to note, that unlike in most (all?) other grading systems, altitude is a major factor in Russian scale. Because of this all routes on very high peaks have high grade even if the ascent would have no technical difficulties. Because of the aforementioned significant role of altitude, direct conversion between Russian system and French adjectival system is difficult if not impossible. Robin Collomb and Andrej Wielochovski designed a conversion table for their 1995 "Pamir-Trans Alai Mountains" map is the most accurate we have at hand. This table, however, is based on an assumption of altitude around 5000m mark. If the mountains are considerable higher, their IFAS grade would be lower than suggested by the table.
For example, normal routes on Peak Lenin, Pik Kommunizma (Ismail Samani) and Pik Korzhenevskoy are all graded 5A, which is considered to be roughly equal of TD. However, none of these climbs are nearly as technical as is the case with typical alpine climbs graded TD. For example, normal route of Peak Lenin has IFAS grade of PD+/AD, which is similar to well known and straight forward Three Mont Blanc route in Mont Blanc Massif, which directly converted would be equal to Russian grade 2B or 3A. Routes graded 5A on much lower mountains are technically much harder, for example "Voie Messner - Marchal de la Brèche" on Pointe du Domino (Mont Blanc Massif" features ice climbing up to III/3 and has IFAS grade of TD.
Grade | Examples |
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1A | Easy routes on peaks of up to 4500m. (~F) |
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1B | Easy routes on peaks up to 5000m. Roped belay sometimes beneficial. (~F+) |
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2A | Ascent of more than 500m on a peak between 2000-6000m or traverses at this height involving basic climbing. On rock, difficulties up to UIAA II. On snow or ice, sections of up to 30-35° (up to 100m). (~PD) |
| - Elbrus5642mWest Peak West PeakWest Peak, Southern routePD-/nccs III 35-40; 35-40°1540m, 6-8h from Eleven Hut in ascent, 4-5h in descent.
- Elbrus5642mEast Peak East PeakEast Peak, Southern RoutePD-1540m, 6-8h from Eleven Hut.
- Finsteraarhorn4274mNormal Route
- Kliuchevskaya4750mSouth sidevia ice plateau and Kamen-Kliuchevskaya colPD; I/II3800m, 8-9h
- Mönch4107mSouth sideSE RidgeII AD-/G3; II, 45°650m, 2,5-3h from Jungfraujoch, 450m, 2-3h from Mönchjochs hut
- Mont Blanc du Tacul4248mNorth faceNorth-west FaceII/PD-/G2-3; II/AI1/40°
700m
2,5-3h
- Mount Kazbek5034mGergeti Glacier
- Salters Peak5560mnormal routeII
- Pik Shchurovskiy4259mSouth-East Crest
- Signalkuppe4554mWest sideWest flankF/PD/G21,5h; 900m, 3,5-4,5h
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2B | More technical routes on between 2000-6000m or traverses at this height. Require basic climbing and roped belay techniques. On rock, sections of up to UIAA III,on snow/ice sections of 35-45°. (~PD+) |
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3A | Slightly more technical ascent than 2B on peaks between 2500 and 6500m. Route length up to 600m (technical part). On rock typically at least 1-1,5 pitches of UIAA III. (~AD) |
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3B | Technical climbing routes on peaks between 2500 and 6500m, route length 600m or more. Usually belayed and protected climbing is necessary also for experienced climbers. On rock short sections of UIAA IV or significant sections of III, on snow/ice long sections up to 45° (up to 300m) or shorter sections up to 55°. (~AD+/D-) |
| - Aiguille de Rochefort4001mRochefort ridgeArete de RochefortIII AD; III/AI1°/45°, II and I
ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, 450m, ridge length 2500m
9-10h from refugio Torino to Col des Grandes Jorasses, descent from there to Montenvers 5-7-h/to Val Ferret 6-7h.
- Aiguille de Rochefort4001mRochefort ridgeArete de RochefortD; IV, mostly II and I
Total 600m, Ridge 2,5km
10-12h from bivouac to Col du Géant
- Dufourspitze4634mSE RidgeTraverse from ZumsteinspitzeII AD; 3a/III and II3,5h
- Lenzspitze4294mNorth side NE FaceDreieselswandIII D/D+; 56°/50°, 3c/III490m. Approach 1,25h from the hut, face 3-4h
- Mount Kazbek5034mSE route
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4A | Routes of 600m or more on peaks between 2500m and 7000m. On peaks around 5000m rock pitches (20-50m) up to UIAA IV, on snow and ice significant sections (up to 300m) of 55°. Usually route takes at least 6 hours. (~D) |
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4B | Routes of 600m or more on peaks between 2500m and 7000m. On peaks around 5000m rock pitches (40-80m) up to UIAA IV or short sections of V, on snow and ice long sections (300m or more) of 50° or more or difficult ridges with cornices. Usually route takes at least 8 hours. |
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5A | On lower mountains, pure technical climbing of at least 600m, numerous edges and towers, vertical cliffs and roofs, rock and ice faces. On rock typically long sections of UIAA III-IV with several pitches of V, on ice/snow several hundred meters of 50° or more or difficult corniced ridges. Typically at leat 10 hours, often multiple days. (~TD). On high mountains (7000m or more, with mild technical difficulties. (~F - AD+) |
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5B | On lower mountains, full set of different obstacles that can be found in mountains. On rock typically long sections of UIAA IV with full pitches of V and VI, on ice/snow several hundred meters of 50° or more or difficult corniced ridges. Route height typically at least 700m, typically at leat two days. (~TD+/ED1) On high mountains technical climbs (~D or more). |
| - Ak-Su5355mEast RidgeEast Ridge5B
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth face North FaceThe ShroudIV TD+; IV/4/Sco IV/75°-80°, avg.60°750m
- Grandes Jorasses4208mNorth face North FaceWalker SpurED1/G13; VI-,A1/VII- (often VI, VI- and V+), 60°
1200m, length 1800m
12-15h
- Pic Svobodnaya Korea4740mNorth face North FaceBarberTD; 60-70°800m/22 pitches
- Khan Tengri6995mWest Couloir
- Mount Everest8848mNorth faceNE Ridge
- Mount Everest8848mNW sideNE Ridge5B
- Peak Pobeda7439mNorth sideMedzmarishviliAD+/D3400m
- Pik Kommunizma7495mNorth side North sideBorodkin SpurV PD+; 55°3800m
- Pik Lenin7134mNorth faceNorth Face DirectTD/ED-; VI-
- Pik Moskva6785mNE faceCherevko5B
- Piz Badile3308mNE face NE FaceCassinIV TD/nccs IV 5.9/E5; VI+/V,A0/5c+/6a/5b,A0/5.10a-b800m, 22 pitches, 6-8h for the ridge, further 1-1,5h to the summit (5 pitches)
- Pumori7165mSE ridge
- ShkheldaMartinov's way
- Stetind1392mSouth sideSydpillarennccs IV 5.10-/Nor V+,6; 5,A1/5.10b/E1 5b/VII-480m (11-14 pitches)
- Stetind1392mSouth sideSydpillarenNor 6,A0/6
- Ushba4710mNorth Peak, West faceWest Face DirectSco V1600m
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6A | Long technical routes (800m or more), often on high mountains or very difficult routes on lower mountains. On lower mountains sustained at uiaa IV-V and involves 20m or more of VI. Typically 40h or more of climbing. Alternatively a combination of at least three traverses of 5B. (~ED1/2) |
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6B | Extremely difficult routes, usually on high mountains or on big walls. Very high technical difficulties, often lots of (hard) aid climbing. Routes take typically several days and are often very serious. (~ED2-) |
| - Ak-Su5355mNorth face North FaceChaplinskeynccs VI 5.10,A3/ED+1500m
- Eiger3970mNorth face N FaceHarlin DirectED3/4; V+,A3/M8- 5.11+/5.12- R, 85°1800m
- Grand Capucin3838mEast face NE faceZimniy voyagED+; 6c,A4400m
- Great Trango Tower6286mWest summit, NW face NW FaceRussian routenccs VII 5.11 A42675m, 66 pitches
- K28611mNorth side North RidgeJapanese RouteV, 50-60°4800m
- Khan Tengri6995mSouth side SSW and SW RibSviridenko's route6B3000m
- Kongur7649mSouth side SW ButressOutskirts of InfinityED; VI+2900m
- Kongur7649mNorth side North RidgeJapanese Route6B4100m
- Petit Dru3750mNW faceNW Face6B
- Spantik7027mNW faceRussian routeED2; 7a,A3, 95°2000m
- Trollryggen1742mTrollveggen TrollveggenRussian Routenccs VI 5.10,A4/ED; 6+,A41150m
- Ushba4710mSouth Peak West face South PeakKustovskiyVI1500m
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Norway
Sometimes Norwegian climbs (and possibly some climbs in Sweden) are graded with a system consisting of overall grade and complemented with pitch gradings. Overall grade considers ther maximum difficulty, length and seriousness of the climb. Rock parts are graded with Norwegian rock grade (which is derived from UIAA rock grade but are not identical) and with aid grade (when appropriate). Steepness of ice and snow parts are not often given, unless the difficulties are primarily on ice/snow and the inclination is genuinely steep (such as 70°; or more). Otherwise it may be said in the guidebook bluntly that the difficulties found on ice/snow is heavily depended on the conditions. This is true, of course, but it doesn't give you too much information about what to expect. This, by the way, is often the case with other beta about Scandinavian alpine climbs otherwise as well.
That being said, the system is not always used. Most notably NTK guidebook for Jotunheimen uses typically no overall grade.
Grade | Examples |
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I | Very easy scrambles, possibly withy pitches of Nor 1 and 2. (~F) |
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II | Scrambles and easy climbs. Rope sometimes necessary. Usually pitches of Nor 2 and 3. (~PD) |
| - Finnan1800mSE RidgeII-3-4h
- Finnan1800mNE GlacierII
- Kebnekaise2109mHalspasset~PD; 2-3, 40-45°1000m total ascent
- Kongen1614mSW faceSW faceII-, 23h
- Kvandalstind1744mNorth RidgeII+, 2
- Otertind1356mS Ridge
- Piggtind1505mSW Face
- Romsdalshorn1550mEast FaceS Ridge via Halls renneII, 2+/3800m altitude gain, last 300m climbing. 3-4h from Hornvatnet.
- SnøhettatraverseII/III
- Store AustabottindWest Ridge
- Store DyrhaugstindNW Ridge
- Store KnutholstindS Ridge from Svartdalen
- Store Lakselvtind1616mvia Tomaskar
- Store Trolltind1795mWest sideWest FlankII-, 2+4-5h from Isterdalen, 2,5-3h in descent.
- Store Vengetind1852mNorth ridgeNorth Ridge from VengedalsvatnetII, 26-8h
- Store Vengetind1852mNorth Ridge from VengedalsvatnetII, 26-8h
- Store Vengetind1852mNorth Ridge from VengedalsvatnetII, 26-8h
- Store Vengetind1852mEast faceØstcouloirNor II, 2
- Store Vengetind1852mEast facetraverse from Søre VengetindII, 2
- Store Vengetind1852mtraverse from Søre VengetindII, 36-8h
- Stortind1512mWest Face
- Trollryggen1742mSE sideSE RidgeII
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III | Climbs suitable for inexperienced climbers. Mainly Nor 3, possibly some 4. (~AD) |
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IV | Mainly Nor 4, with pitches of 5 and sometimes 6-. (~AD/D) |
| - Austre Rulten1062mÖstryggen (East Ridge)
- Breitind1759mEast faceEastern CouloirIV, 51500m
- Guhkekajsa1560mWest Face
- Hornaksla1510mSW slabsIV, 51800m
- Klokketinden866mvia Tretinden and Rubicon skar
- Romsdalshorn1550mEast FaceEast RidgeIV, 4180m
- Romsdalshorn1550mWest face West WallOriginalIV+, 5+300m
- Skarfjell1790mNE Tower
- Stetind1392mSouth sideSE Ridge~AD; 5.6800m, 5h from camp at Svartvatnet
- Store Lakselvtind1616mtraverse of Lakselvtindane
- Store Lakselvtind1616mWest face
- Store Styggedalstind2387mStyggedalstraverseIV, 3
- Store SkagastølstindSkagastølstraverse
- Store SmørstabbtindSE Ridge
- Store Trolltind1795mEast FaceFivaruta5.31800m, 5-8h
- Store Vengetind1852mEast faceØstveggenIV+, 4+300m
- Store Vengetind1852mEast faceØstveggenV+, 6,A2300m
- Store Vengetind1852mSouth WallV, 5-
- Store Vengetind1852mWest faceWest RidgeIV-, 4+/5600m
- Store Vengetind1852mWest RidgeIII, 3
- Store Vengetind1852mWest RidgeIII, 3
- Søre Setretind1358mS Pillar
- Tuolpagorni1694mSilhuetleden4-5350m, 11 pitches
- Vågakallen942mEast RidgeEast Ridge5.45h
- Vågakallen942mNorth ridgeNorth RidgeD; 5.512 pitches of climbing and plenty of scrambling
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V | Mainly Nor 5 with any amount of 6. (~TD) |
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VI | Mainly Nor 6, possibly with pitches of of 6+ and any amount of aid climbing. (~ED) |
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VI+ | Sustained Nor 6 and 6+ with any amount of aid climbing. (~ED-) |
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Other areas
Despite the plethora of alpine grading systems, there are areas that don't use one. For European climbers, the most notable of these areas are (parts) of Eastern Alps and Scandinavia.
On Eastern parts of the Alps the same system that is applied to Western Alps is sometimes used. Also Bernese G-grade may be used, particularly on the climbs in Eastern Switzerland. Austrian and German guidebooks don't typically give any overall grade. Technical difficulties are normally given with UIAA rock grade, aid grade and steepness for snow and ice.