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Big peak on the left is Gaherbrum IV with its NW ridge forming the left skyline. The face directly towards the camera is West Face, aka Shining Wall. Credit: Florian Ederer, Shot on 2014-06-19 Photo taken in Skardu, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan.(c) Florian Ederer, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

Karakoram (sometimes spelled Karakorum) lies in northeast Pakistan and Northern India, some 1500km west of Nepalase Himalayas and north of westernmost part of Himalaya, separated from it by the river of Indus. It is often regarded as a part of the Himalayas. The mountains in Karakoram typically have sharp, angular form and many of icy peaks are surrounded by wild towers and spires.

Based on geographical features Karakoram can be divided into Greater Karakoram formed by Karakoram main chain running more or less from west to East and northern and southern lesser Karakoram chains on either side of it. Greater Karakoram consists of several Muztaghs and most of the highest and best known peaks are located on this part of the range. For climbers though, probably more meaningful distinction is to use the division based on general location. The following combines the two so that areas are listed generally from West to East and within each area from North to South.

Western Karakoram

Hindu Raj

• Lesser Karakoram, north
  • Lupgar
• Greater Karakoram
  • Batura Muztagh
• Lesser Karakoram, south
  • Naltar

Lupgar

Lupgar range is located to the north of Batura glacier in NW corner of Karakoram. The mountains lie close to the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan with some valleys buffering the border falling in a 'restricted zone'. Most peaks are around 6000m and rock quality is generally very poor. Many 5000m peaks in this area are generally easy to climb and ideal for the first time visitor in Pakistan.

Batura Muztagh

Batura Muztagh forms the westernmost part of Karakoram main chain lying to the west of Hunza valley in Gilgit-Baltistan province of northern Pakistan. Closeness to Karakoram highway make this part easily accessible by Karakoram standards. The area contains some of the Karakoram's highest peaks outside the Baltoro region and some of the most impressive. Most imposing peaks in Passu massif and Batura wall lie to the south of Batura glacier but most ascents have been made from the south. Batura II (7762m) was and Muchu Chhish (7453m) still is among the highest unclimbed peaks in the world, therefore particularly Batura II has seen several suitors.

• West Karakoram Bonanza. The two-man team of Bruce Normand (a Scot residing in Switzerland) and Markus Walter from Germany made a series of attempts and ascents in the Western Karakoram of Pakistan this past summer. The pair began with an unsuccessful attempt on Batura II (7762m), one of six high points on part of the watershed ridge separating the Batura Glacier to the north from the Hunza valley to the south. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2006-10-17.

Kampire Dior group

Group of peaks rising in a horseshoe form around the end of Baltoro glacier. The highest peak is Kampe Dior with several other peaks either a little over or just below 7000m. The best known climbs of the area are Kampe Dior and Beka Brakai Chhok, both of whic have been visited by few parties. Other than that, not much information about the climbing is available. Of the unclimbed objectives, particularly North Face of Kuk Sar II is highly impressive.

Batura group

Batura peaks lie on Batura Muztagh main chain in NW-SE direction forming long continuous ridge known as Batura Wall. The order of peaks starting from North is IV, III, II, I, V (Muchu Chhish) and VI (Far East). The group has a major side ridge toward NE from III and one towards SW from II (Hachindar Chhish). Another prominent ridge drops towards South from Muchu Chhish. Huge north face is well visible from Baltoro glacier, but there have been remarkably few attempts from this side. South side climbs west if SW ridge of Bature II start from Baltar glacier while the ones on its east side start from Muchuchar glacier. The ridge can be crossed at Batokshi Col (~6000m) thus some of the routes on Batura I and II can be started from either of the valleys.

• Batura I, 7794 m (Batura II, III, IV). Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse. By Günter Seyfferth at Die Berge des Himalaya.

Pasu group

Peaks located on the ridge branching towards (N)E from Barura main chain on Pasu Sar, while SE chain consists of Shispare - Ultar Sar. Peaks are high and fairly accessible via Batura glacier (north side) or Pasu glacier (south side), yet not a lot information about climbs or attempts on the peaks can be found.

Atabad group

Southwestern cluster of peaks on Batura main ridge. The peaks are located close to Karimabad and Karakoram highway. The highest peak of the group is Ultar Sar with Bojohagur Duanasir and Hunza Peaks being the other main peaks of the area. Furthermore sharp pinnacles of Ladyfinger Peak (Bublimating) and Gulmit Tower are aesthetic peaks providing technical climbs. Very few successful ascents have been made in the peaks, therefore lots of room for new routes. The main goal of the area is SE spur of Ultar Sar that has been attempted several times by strong parties, so far without success.

Hachindar Chhish

Hachindar Chhish is the principal peak on the long chain branching SW from main chain at Batura II. Not much information about the climbs, but based on the first ascent party reporting to have aided several pitches and pictures of the peak, it seems safe to assume that all the possible routes are technical. Gutum Talji and Pute Towers are the other main features of the group.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 1982, isbn: 9780930410155, pp: 279.'Thaime Chhish, Batura Region Attempt' by John Nixon.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 1984, isbn: 9780930410230, pp: 303.'Sia Chhish, Batura Group' by Giorgio Mallucci.

Kampire Dior group

Batura group

Pasu group

Atabad group

Hachindar Chhish

Naltar

Naltar valley lies in the NW of Gilgit surrounded by the peaks of Naltar mountains. The range is low by Karakoram standards with none of the peaks reaching 6000m. Sentinel (5260m) and Shani peak (5887m) are likely most climbed peaks of the range. Sentinel is a moderately difficult alpine climb, while Shani peak is a serious mixed rock and I snow climb.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 1989, isbn: 9780930410391, pp: 264.'Shani Attempt and Ascents of Other Peaks, Naltar Valley, Western Karakoram' by Stephen Thompson.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 1990, isbn: 9780930410438, pp: 296.'Shani, Naltar Valley' by Peter Leeming.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2000, isbn: 9780930410872, pp: 327.'Naltar Mountains, Shani Peak, Various Ascents' by Elwin van der Gragt.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2001, isbn: 9780930410896, pp: 148.'The Karakoram, Whatever Your Game, The Karakoram Has It' by Stephen Venables.

Northern Karakoram

Ghujerab Mountains

Despite being visible to Karakoram highway, Ghujerab areas are not too popular among foreign climbers. Lack of really famous peaks is certainly one reason for that, the reportedly appalling rock quality without a doubt another. The highest peak of the area is Karun Koh (7164m). The most accessible part of the range is Tupopdan and the entire cathedral ridge, both of which are visible from Karakoram Highway.

Main access to Ghujerab Mountains is from Shimshal valley. The valley apparently has strong mountaineering tradition and several Pakistani climbers who have climbed the high peaks of the country come from the valley. Therefore no reason to expect the peak to be unclimbed if no reports can be found on the usual sources.

Tupopdan

The group located on the east side of Hunza valley and Karakoram highway, NE of Passu and more or less opposite Batura glacier. The highest peak of the group is Tupopdan (6106m, also known as "Passu Cones" or "Passu Cathedral"). Other than that the whole Cathedral ridge is full of sharp rock summits.

North Ghujerab

North Ghujerab mountains are located between Khunjerab valley in the north ans Ghujerab valley in the south. Jerzy Wala map does not name any other mountains but there are several peaks above 6000m. The highest peak is Charchingal Sar (6483m). At least Koksil Sar has been visited by climbers.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 2012, isbn: 9781933056753, pp: 245-246. By Janusz Majer.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2012, isbn: 9781933056753, pp: 247.'Koksil Sar I (6,176m, Polish Map; 6,152m GPS), west flank and northwest ridge; Koksil Sar II (5,909m GPS), west ridge; Koksil Sar III (5,888m GPS), southeast flank' by Markus Gschwend.
• http://jac.or.jp/english/images/JAPANESE%20ALPINE%20NEWS%20Vol13-48.pdf Koksil Valley - Ghujerab mountains Japanese Alpine News

South Ghujerab

South Ghujerab mountains are located between Ghujerab valley in the north ans Shimshal valley in the south. The highest peak of the group is Karun Koh. Jerzy Wala map does not name any other mountains but there are several peaks above 6000m.

Central Karakoram

All of the most famous peaks in Karakoram are located in Central Karakoram, that contains Hispar, Panmah and Baltoro Muztaghs in the Greater Karakoram. Baltoro has all four 8000m peaks in Karakoram, as well as famous rock spires of Uli Biaho, Trango and Muztagh Towers. Panmah is home to Ogre and Latok groups, both having host of the most coveted unclimbed lines. Also southern Lesser Karakoram has some very impressive peaks like Rakaposhi and Masherbrum range. Particularly the latter has become popular as several parties have visited Charakusa and Nangma valleys around Hushe.

• Lesser Karakoram, north
  • Wesm/Yengisogat
• Greater Karakoram
  • Hispar Muztagh
  • Panmah Muztagh
  • Baltoro Muztagh
• Lesser Karakoram, south
  • Rakaposhi-Haramosh
  • Spantik-Sosbun
  • Mango Gusor
  • Shimshak
  • Masherbrum

Wesm/Yengisogat

Wesm range (also known as Yengisogat), is a Chinese (Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region) subrange of the Karakoram, located due north of Baltoro Muztagh. The highest peak is Huangguan Shan (Crown Peak) at 7265m. Not well known range among the climbers.

Insgaiti Muztagh

Crown group

Hispar Muztagh

Hispar Muztagh is located in the Gojal region of Pakistan, north of Hispar Glacier, south of Shimshal Valley, and east of the Hunza Valley. The chain south of Hispar glacier with numerous 6000m peaks is not part of Hispar Muztagh, it belongs to Lesser Karakoram. Hispar is the second highest sub-range of the Karakoram after Baltoro Muztagh. Aside of 8000m peaks in Baltoro, the highest peaks of Karakoram are located in Hispar Muztagh, with Distaghil Sar (7885m), Kunyang Chhish (7852m) and Kanjut Sar (7760m) being the highest. The area is not part of the restricted border zone. Despite of this, the area is not very often visited by climbers.

• Mountain Info, #513 issue: 31, date: 2007-09.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2009, isbn: 9781933056098, pp: 269-271.

• Hispar Muztagh. At American Alpine Journal.
• Hispar Muztagh. At Alpine Journal.
• The Hispar Muztagh, Pakistan. The Hispar Muztagh is a sub-range of the mighty Karakoram mountains. It lies on the north side of the Hispar glacier, Pakistan's fifth largest glacier and certainly one of the most impressive. To the north of the Hispar Muztagh is the Shimshal valley, named after the village at the heart of the region. The range contains numerous 7000m+ peaks, some of which remain unclimbed with many only having been ascended once. By BigLee at SummitPost on 2007-01-31.

Momhil group

Westernmost mountains in Hispar Muztagh. Several 7000m peaks, yet the peaks are seldom climbed.

Disteghil group

Northern group on the Central Hispar Muztagh. The peaks are connected with Momhil group by a high ridge, so these two groups are not really separated. Distaghil Sar, the highest peak of entire Hispar Muztagh, is located in this group. Other than that Malangutti Sar and Yazghil Domes are the other main peaks.

Yazghil group

Southern group of Central Hispar Muztagh. The peaks are located close to Biafo glacier and not very remote by Karakoram standards. Very few ascents on any of the peaks. Khunyang Chhish East got attention from elite climbers as it was among the highest unclimbed peaks until Simon Anthamatten and Auer brothers climbed it in 2013.

Khunyang Chhish lies in the heart of the Hispar Muztagh, north of the Hispar Glacier, one of the major glaciers of the Karakoram, and actually it location is in Skardu District of Baltistan. It rises on the southwest side of the Khunyang Glacier while Distaghil Sar (the highest peak of the Hispar Muztagh) dominates the glacier on its northern end.

• Kunyang Chhish, 7852m. Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse. By Günter Seyfferth at Die Berge des Himalaya.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 1975, isbn: 9780930410728, pp: 215.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2010, isbn: 9781933056234, pp: 264.'Pumari Chhish East, Attempt; Rasool Sar, First Ascent; 'Lunda Sar,' First Ascent of Southwest Face (No Summit); Khani Basa Sar, First Ascent' by Raphael Slawinski.

Kanjut group

Groups to the east of Yazghil and Yutmary glaciers and to the west of Khundopin glacier. There being several high peaks, particularly Kanjut and Yukshin Gardan Sar. The peaks are furthest away road ends of all of Hispar Muztagh which is certainly one reason why the peaks are little explored.

Momhil group

Disteghil group

Yazghil group

Pumari Chhish

Kanjut group

Kanjut Sar group

Yazghil Sar-Yutmaru Sar

Panmah Muztagh

Panmah Muztagh lies in the heart of Karakoram in Baltistan District of Pakistan. Peaks of the area are not particularly high by Karakoram standards, the highest being Baintha Brakk (The Ogre, 7285m). However, what they lack in height, they more than make up for grandeur. This area is home to particularly wild and exceedingly steep rock spires offering no easy way up. Baintha Brakk has only been climbed thrice (by 2014), each time by world class teams. First ascent is famous for epic as Doug Scott broke both ankles close to summit and Chris Bonington broke two ribs and contracted pneumonia. Second ascent took 24 years and 25 failed attemps. Another highlight of the area is Latok group, the ascents on which are of similar difficulty.

Ogre and Latok groups aside, not much is known about the peaks on Panmah. The long chain to the north of Chocktoi glacier contains Biacherahi Towers, at least some of which have been climbed. Still further north, a chain of peaks runs generally from west to east. The chain has several peaks above 6000m high, but no real giants or famous peaks. The main peaks of this chain are Braldu Brakk, Lupke Brakk and Bobisghir.

• Panmah Muztagh. Articles on AAJ. At American Alpine Journal.
• Panmah Muztagh. Articles on AJ. At Himalayan Club.
• Pakistani Karakoram 2013 — Magical Mystery Tour. By Anton Karnoup on 2013-10-21.

Ogre Group

The group is dominated by two main peaks, Ogre I and II. Ogre III is not so much an independent mountain, rather West summit of Ogre II. Both of the main peaks are supremely difficult, as far as I know, there has been a grand total of five ascent by spring 2014 to any summit of Ogre I, II or III. That is not for the lack of trying either, as there has been tens of serious attempts by very strong parties.

Unlike III, Ogre II is very much an independent, and imposing for that matter, peak. Certainly not a side summit of Ogre I as the two are separated by a col at 5650m. Ogre III on thew other hand is West summit of Ogre II but apparently nowadays counts as independent mountain. The peaks is complex and very difficult, considered to be at least as difficult as Ogre I.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 1997, isbn: 9780930410711, pp: 320.'Ogre's Thumb, South Face'
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2009, isbn: 9781933056098, pp: 275.'Baintha Kabata, First Ascent' by Colin Haley.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 2001, isbn: 9780930410896, pp: 353.'Ogre II, Southeast Ridge, Attempt' by Emanuele Pellizzari.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 1983, isbn: 9780930410216, pp: 276-279.'Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II) Attempt' by Paul Nunn.

Latok Group

Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group and form a horseshoe around Baintha Lupga glacier. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier.From west to East the peaks are Latok II, I, III, IV and V. The lack of more descript name does not mean that Latok group would be a single ridge with multiple summits, instead all five of Latok peaks are independent mountains.

All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world. First party that gained permit to climb in Latok group described the area: "Like a row of El Capitans, only... somewhat bigger". Latok II used to be considered the highest of the peaks.

• Alpinist, issue: 30.'Mountain Profile: Latok' by Conrad Anker.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 1981, isbn: 9780930410773.
• Mountain Info, #513 issue: 31, date: 2007-09.
• Mountain #49

• Canadians send unexpected summit in the Latok group. By Jeremy Frimer at Alpinist on 2007-09-10.
• Three Women, a Mountain and a Mosque. During the summer of 2007, three women—Luisa Giles (British, 25), Sarah Hart (Canadian, 27) and Jacqueline Hudson (Canadian, 28)—attempted a new ca. 950-meter free rock line in the Karakorum Range of Pakistan. The route is on a possibly unclimbed 5200-meter rock peak, on the Choktoi Glacier, in the Latok group. The peak, on the south side of the Choktoi glacier, is situated east (down valley) of Latok I's famous North Ridge. By Jacqui Hudson at Alpinist on 2007-10-31.

Choktoi group

The long chain to the north of Chocktoi glacier contains Biacherahi Towers, at least some of which have been climbed.

Chiring group

Chiring group is the chain of peaks NW of Payu and Trango peaks of Baltoro Muztagh in the easternmost part of Panmah Muztagh.

Ogre Group

Latok Group

Chiring group

Baltoro Muztagh

Baltoro Muztagh is without a doubt the best known area of Karakoram among the climbers and also the most visited. Obvious highlights are the 8000ers K2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak. Very difficult K2 is obviously by far the most famous of the peaks, but its difficulty and steepness keep the number of attemps at bay. Particularly as its relentless steepness make it far less suitable for siege tactics typically used by commercial expeditions. The other three 8000m peaks are among the easier 8000m peaks, particularly Gasherbrum II. Those 8000m peraks aside, other famous peaks of the area are Gasherbrum IV (aka Shining Mountain) and Muztagh and Trango Towers. All three of them being extremely difficult.

• Central Karakoram. At Blank on the map.
• Baltoro glacier sketch map. At Czech Gasherbrum Expedition 2007.

Western Baltoro Muztagh (Trango)

Baltoro Muztagh is without a doubt the best known area of Karakoram among the climbers and also the most visited. Obvious highlights are the 8000ers K2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak. Very difficult K2 is obviously by far the most famous of the peaks, but its difficulty and steepness keep the number of attemps at bay. Particularly as its relentless steepness make it far less suitable for siege tactics typically used by commercial expeditions. The other three 8000m peaks are among the easier 8000m peaks, particularly Gasherbrum II. Those 8000m peaks aside, other famous peaks of the area are Gasherbrum IV (aka Shining Mountain) and Muztagh and Trango Towers. All three of them being extremely difficult.

Payu group

Uli Biaho group consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (6109m) and Uli Biaho Peak (6417m). Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style via the direct East Face by John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Ron Kauk & Bill Forrest on 1979 and the first ascent was widely considered to be the most difficult climb in the greater ranges at the time (first ncss grade VII). Roskelley included a chapter on Uli Biaho in his 1993 book Stories Off the Wall. Hainabrakk and Shipton Spire are the other famous peaks of the group.

Group of mighty rock spires, each with difficult routes. Particularly Shipton Spire has attracted several climbers and correspondingly there are several routes.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 2001, isbn: 9780930410896.

• The Flame. "The Flame" (ca. 20,700') is an alluring needle visible on the back cover of the 2001 American Alpine Journal. Brian McMahon and I made three unsuccessful trips up the Hainabrakk Glacier during the month of July to establish an advance base camp below the Flame's lower wall. These failed attempts were extremely frustrating, as the approach to advance base camp involved two highly dangerous icefalls and nearly 4,000 feet of elevation gain." By Josh Wharton at Alpinist on 2002-12-01.

• Mountain Info, #503 issue: 21, date: 2006-11.
• Mountain Info, #513 issue: 31, date: 2007-09.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2001, isbn: 9780930410896, pp: 14-22.'Trick of the Light' by Jonathan Copp.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2001, isbn: 9780930410896, pp: 23-32.'For Better of for Worse' by Brian McCray.

• Great Trango Tower, Hainabrakk East and Shipton Spire. By Vladimir Linek at Alpinist on 2006-03-01.

Trango Towers

The Trango Towers are a group of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier between Uli Biaho in the West and Muztagh Towers in the east. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. In fact, the east face of the Great Trango Tower is commonly considered the tallest vertical face in the world.

All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, trending northwest-southeast, between the Trango Glacier on the west and the Dunge Glacier on the east. The group is reasonable easy to access as it is located much closer to civilization than many other popular peaks in Pakistan.

The highest point in the group is the large massif of Great Trango Tower culminating at 6286m high main summit. Just northwest of Great Trango is the Trango Tower (6239 m), often called "Nameless Tower". This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1000m out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as "Trango Monk." To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, though they share the Trango name. Trango II (6327m) lies northwest of the Monk, and the highest summit on the ridge, Trango Ri (6363m), lies northwest of Trango II. Just southeast of Great Trango (really a part of its southeast ridge) is the Trango Pulpit (6050m), whose walls present similar climbing challenges to those of Great Trango itself. Further to the south is Trango Castle (5753m), the last large peak along the ridge before the Baltoro Glacier.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 2006, isbn: 9781933056012.
• Mountain Info, #512 issue: 30, date: 2007-08. By Lindsay Griffin.
• Mountain Info, #513 issue: 31, date: 2007-09. By Lindsay Griffin.
• Mountain Info, #621 issue: 86, date: 2012-04. By Lindsay Griffin.

• Trango group. At Mastertopo.

• Trango Towers. At SummitPost.
• Slovenian Bonanza in the Trango Group. Alpinist Issue 11 featured a 20-page Mountain Profile on Pakistan's Trango Tower by Trango veteran Greg Child. One year later, the article appears to have inspired a spate of activity, when, in late August, a large group of Slovenians blasted the Trango Group. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2006-09-28.
• Trango Group. Trango Group, Various Activity. Since many climbers had told us late summer in the Karakoram has the best rock-climbing weather, we chose that time to visit the Trango towers. By Andrej Grmovsek at Alpinist on 2007-03-01.
• Mexican climber, Pakistani cook go big. From July 19-22 a Mexican climber, Luis Carlos Garcia Ayala, and Pakistani cook and guide, Ali Muhammad, opened a route on La Reina Roja (aka The Red Queen), the southwest-facing wall above Sadu Peak (4400m), in the Trango Range, Pakistan Karakoram. By Chris Zajchowski at Alpinist on 2007-08-22.
• Trango Towers Group. From August 2-September 28, Klemen Mali, Miha Valic and I climbed in the Trango group. Our main target was the southwest ridge of Great Trango Tower, but a few days before our departure, we got the news that Josh Wharton and Kelly Cordes had climbed it. We were a little disappointed but not too sad because there are a lot of good mountains in the area. By Tomaz Jakofcic at Alpinist on 2005-03-01.
• Karakoram development continues. The last couple of years have seen the Trango Glacier establish itself as perhaps the world's preeminent alpine-rock playground. Climbing Trango Tower (6239m; see Alpinist 11's Mountain Profile for complete route details) has become a far more accessible goal since the Pakistan government, forced to realize the long-term implications of restrictive regulations, raised the altitude, below which peaks in open areas would be free of royalty and cumbersome liaison officer services, to 6500 meters. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2006-10-26.
• New routes and a virgin peak above the Trango Glacier. A Polish Sage Symfonia Polish Karakorum Expedition, Pakistan 2006 operated in the area of Trango Towers in the Karakoram between the end of August and 20th of September. The climbing team included Maciej Ciesielski, Jakub Radziejowski and Wawrzyniec Zakrzewski. By Jakub Radziejowski at ClimbAndMore.com.

Muztagh Tower group

Group located to the East of Trango group and west of Chongtar-Skil Brum and K2. Significantly higher but less known than the climbs of Trango group. Both routes climbed in 1956 were among the most difficult climbing ever done at such altitude at the time.

Lobsang group

Peaks between Trango group and Dunge glacier in the west and Muztagh glacier and Tower in the east.

Choricho group

Payu group

Trango group

Muztagh Tower group

Northern Baltoro Muztagh

Northernmost part of Baltoro Muztagh located between Trango group in the west and Gasherbrum group in the east. The group contains several high peaks, yet it is completely dominated by K2, which is the only peak in the area that gets regularly climbed. The peaks are almost always climbed from Godwin-Austen glacier or one of its tribunaries. The areas located on the north side of Baltoro Muztagh main chain are very remote and get visited very seldom. The access is trough China and involves major logistical challenges. Only North side of K2 gets occasionally climbed.

• Kielkowski, Jan: K2 and Northern Baltoro Mustagh. Isbn: 8386054956. Explo Publishers, 1998.

Chongtar group

Group located between Sarpo Laggo glacier in the west and Qoqori glacier in the east. Chongtar group is north-south chain just north of Skil Brum and west of Savoia Pass (6258m). The highest peak is in the souther part of the group, not far from Savoia pass. All other aspects of the group require approach from the Chinese side; from Sarpo Laggo glacier on the west side and Qoqori glacier on the east side. Not much information about climbing is available.

Skil Brum

North-South chain between Muztagh Tower group in the west and Savoia and Godwin Austen glaciers (K2) in the east. The group has three main ridges: NW ridge connects Skil Brum with Savoia Pass (6258m) and K2, west ridge leads to Moni Pass and Muztagh Tower and south ridge leads to Concordia. Despite the peaks being high, they are overshadowed by neighboring Trango group and Muztagh Tower in the West and K2 in the east.

K2 group

K2 group really consists just of one mountain, although there are few other summits on the ridges. The peaks has classic pyramid shape with six main ridges:

• NE ridge to Skyang La. There are several towers along the ridge: Shanjian 2, Shanjian 1 (7187m) and Xiafong (6845m) names on a Chinese map.
• SE ridge (Abruzzi ridge) with Shoulder Peak (7722m)
• SW ridge (SSW ridge, South ridge) to Negrotto pass and Angelus Peak (6802m)
• West ridge
• NW ridge to Savoia la (6258). 4km with 23000m altitude gain
• North ridge to Qogori glacier. The ridge split the north side into narrow NW face and wide N(E) faces.

Skyang Kangri group

Skyang Kangri has three main peaks located on the Baltoro main ridge. There are additionally three separate ridge systems generally towards north. Alöö three groups have peaks above 600 and generally next to nothing is known about the climbing. Most of the peaks, including the highest, don't even have names.

Baltoro main chain extends from Skyang SW La over Skyang Kangri III, II and I to Skyang La (Windy Gap, 5925m). Skyang Kangri I and II are connected by high ridge with no distinct col. III on the other hand is significantly more independent being separated from II by7038m col.

West Skyang Peaks is the smallest of three ridge systems. It branches off the main chain a south of Skyang Kangri III. The highest peaks of the group is P.6639 which is also one of the very few peaks on all of Skyang Kangru group that has been climbed.

North Skyang Kangri peaks are located on a ridge running north from Skyang Kangri I. Several peaks rise to above 6000m.

East ridge of Skyang Kangri I connects with another north south ridge with several side ridges. The group is known as East Skyang peaks. The group is significantly larges and more complex than the other two Skyand side ridges. The peaks are of similar height than the others, with P.6436 being the highest. The area is the least explored of the little explored groups. No ascents or attempts are known.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 1999, isbn: 9780930410841.'Aghil Mountains, Various Ascents' by John Nankervis.

Skilbrum group

K2 group

Chongtar group

Skyang Kangri group

Eastern Baltoro Muztagh

Broad Peak Group

Broad Peak is not so much a group, rather than a massive single mountain with few side summits. The peaks sits on Baltoro main chain and consists just two main ridges: NE ridge over North peak to Sella Pass and S(W) ridge towards Gaherbrum IV (becomes NW ridge of GIV). Furthermore there's a short side ridge running north-south to the west of Broad Peak between it and Godwin-Austen glacier.

Gasherbrum Group

Gasherbrum is a remote group of peaks located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya on the border of the Chinese Shaksgam Valley and the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan. The massif contains two or three of the world's 8000m peaks depending on whether Broad Peak is considered part of Northern Baltoro Muztagh or Gasherbrum group. Despite the presence of lot-hyper 8000m peaks in the group, the most striking and also alpinistically most important peak is Gasherbrum IV that misses the magic mark by some meters.

Severeal ascents that have pushed the boundaries of what is possible in alpine style have occurred on Broad Peak and Gasherbroum group. Of particular importance are 1957 the first ascent of Broad Peak, 1975 three-day climb in pure alpine style by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 1984 enchainment of Gasherbrum I and II by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander and 1985 first ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV by Robert Schauer and Wojciech Kurtyka (not to summit).

• Gasherbrum group summits marked. At Wikipedia.

Sia group

Separated from Gasherbrum group by col SE of Urdok II. East ridge leads first to Indira col and further to Turkestan col, which separates it from Siachen Muztagh. South ridge leads to Sia La, which separates the group from Saltoro Mountains.

Broad Peak Group

Gasherbrum Group

Sia group

Rakaposhi-Haramosh

Rakaposhi-Haramosh is located in Gilgit district in the SW corner of Karakoram. The area has huge glaciers and peaks have huge prominence as they rise over relatively low valleys. Hunza valley is the most visited part of this range.

Rakaposhi-Bagrot group

Western end on Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain. Rakaposhi is highly commanding presence rising stupendously above the low valleys of Hunza and Nalgar and easily visible to Karakoram Highway. North face ranks among the highest faces in the world. Diran is the other major peak of the group.

Malubiting group

Central peaks on Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain. Besides several Malubiting summits, the main peak of the group is Laila Peak. Laila peak of Rakaposhi-Haramosh group is not to be mixed with lower but a lot more famous peak located in Garherbrum range. Malubiting group is located very close to Spantik on Spantik-Sosbun chain, separated from it by Polan la (5629m). Malubiting has several summits, the highest one is West summit. Of other Malubiting summits North and South/East summits are fairly independent, Central much less so.

Haramosh group

SE end of Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain. Haramosh peaks are separated by the rest of Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain by Haramosh Pass (5100m), that connects Mani and Chogo Lungma glaciers.

Rakaposhi-Bagrot group

Malubiting group

Haramosh group

Spantik-Sosbun

The Spantik-Sosbun group is a subrange of the Karakoram in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. It forms the souther bank of both Hispar and Biafpo glaciers. On the southern side, the natural border is Chogo Lungma glacier system. The most famous and the highest peak is Spantik (7027m). Spantik is probably the easiest 7000m peak in Karakoram and correspondingly popular among the climbers. The other namesake peak is Sosbun Brakk (6413m).

Chogo Lungma group

Westernmost part of Spantik-Sosbun chain. Spantik is located close to Malubiting group of Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain, separated from it by Polan la (5629m). Spantik is reputed the easiest 7000m peak in Karakoram and correspondingly popular. The neighboring peaks on the other are very much overshadowed by Spantik and hand see very few climbers.

Balchhish group

The peaks form the southern bank of Hispar glacier. There are several low 6000ers, particularly in the western part of the chain, but well known climbing objectives.

The most famous peaks of the group is likely Solu Towers, located on the eastern end of the chain, very close to Hispar La and Sosbun Brakk. There are four distinct peaks: Solu Peak (5901m), Solu Tower I (5979m), Unnamed and Solu Hidden Tower (ca 5850m). Solu Tower II (5959m) is not very independent, rather a shoulder on Solu Tower I.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 2009, isbn: 9781933056098.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2013, isbn: 9781933056791, pp: 286-288.'Baintha Brakk (Ogre, 7,285m), north face reconnaissance; Hispar Muztagh, Muki (6,330m), traverse; Peak 5,966m; Sosbun Group, Solu Hidden Tower (ca 5,850m), northeast and northwest faces.' by Hervé Barmasse.

• Der Solu-Gletscher im Karakorum. By Kai Maluck at Deutscher Alpenverein Sektion Braunschweig e. V. Hochtourengruppe.

Sosbun group

Sosbun group is located in the eastern part of Spantik-Sosbun chain, due south of Biafo glacier. The highest peak of the group is Sosbun Brakk which lies close to Solu Tower and not very far from Hispar La. Other than that the group has several low 6000ers and several 5000ers on the chain running south from Spantik_Sosbun chain, particularly Socun Tower and 9 Sosbun Spires. Most of the peaks are accessible either from Sokha glacier is NW or Sosbun glacier in SE. The former glacier is accessible a bit before reaching Arandu at the head of Chogo Lungma glacier or from Hispar glacier via Sokha La. The latter is accessible from the road to Askole or from Hispar glacier via Sokha La and Sosbun-Sokha La (5200m).

South-easternmost part of Spantik-Sosbum chain consists of Ganchen and Meru (or Gama Sokha Lumbu) groups. The groups have several low 6000ers and several 5000ers.

Group of nine spires to the west of Sosbun Brakk and Sosbun Tower. I is the one closest to Sosbun Tower.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 2013, isbn: 9781933056791, pp: 285.'Sosbun Group, Solu Glacier, various ascents' by Kai Maluck.
• Alpine Journal, year: 1989, isbn: 9780091736590.'Crossing the Kurdopin' by Philip Bartlett.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 1989, isbn: 9780930410391, pp: 257.'Sosbun Spires Attempt and P 5890 Ascent' by Robert Renzler.

Chogolungma Group

Makrong group

Balchhish group

Sosbun group

Mango Gusor

Group of mountain south of Askole. The namesake and the highest peaks of the group is Mango Gusor (6288m). Not a lot information about climbing exists except for one report in AAJ (1975) about unsuccessful attempt.

Shimshak

Group located to the south of Mangu Sur and East of Skardu. Lower and far less glaciated as other parts of the range. The highest peak is Shimshak 5609.

Masherbrum range

The Masherbrum Mountains are located on the south side of the Baltoro Glacier. While not as famous as the Baltoro Muztagh, Masherbrum group attracts climbers from around the planet. Oh the other hand, the easternmost parts of the range are little known and little visited. No doubt the proximity to Siachen dispute has been a major factor for that.

The highest peak of the range is its namesake Masherbrum. It has just three routes and a gigantic NE face which is highly coveted unclimbed objective. The other main peaks of the area are Chogolisa and K6. The latter is the highest of the peaks surrounding Charakusa valley. It has become popular as it has both wild rock towers in the lower valley as well as jaw-dropping alpine objectives of the upper valley, all accessible from a single base camp.

Masherbrum group

Masherbrum group forms a south-facing horseshoe around Masherbrum glacier with all the highest peaks of the group: Mandu Peak, Masherbrum and Yermanendu Kangri and Serac Peak. North side of Masherbrum towards Baltoro is even more impressive. NWE face of Masherbrum is one of the most coveted unclimbed lines, right up there with North ridge of Latok I. Described to be El Capitan on top of Denali. Further NW, Biarchedi Peaks, Nuating and Mitre are the main peaks which are significantly lower.

Chogolisa group

Large and complex group that consists of numerous connected ridge systems. The highest peak of the group is Chogolisa with Khumul Peaks, Tasa Brakk, Prupoo Brakka and Baltoro Kangri being the other main peaks.

The western areas are most readily approached from Abruzzi and Vigne glaciers. Main climbing objectives are Chogolisa and pictoresque Laila Peak. Chogolisa group is probably the least visited part of Masherbrum range and that is particularly true to eastern areas, where Baltoro Kangri is the main peak. The reason for those areas seeing very little visitors has for long been the proximity to Siachen dispute. The eastern parts of Chogolisa are most conveniently accesses either from Kaberi or Kondus glacier depending on objective.

Western chain

Western North-South chain of peaks of Chogolisa group rising between Chongogoro glacier in the west and Chogolisa glacier in the east. The chain is joined by Chogolisa chain with a high ridge forming the upper end of Chogolisa glacier. The highest peak of the grouop is Trinity Peak (Tasa Burakha) with Drangra (6325) and Farorin (6294m) the other high peaks. However, surely the most famous peaks around is iconic Laila Peak.

Khumul Gri

Khumul Gri or Vigne peaks is a cluster of peaks located on the ridge leading north from Chogolisa towards Concordia. The group consists of main ridge running north-south over Khumul Gri VI, Khumul Gri V, Khumul Gri IV to I. Further south the ridge joins Chogolisa I. Khumul Gri II and III are located on a short side ridge towards west from Khumul Gri I.

Information about the climbs is pretty much nonexistent. West face (facing Vigne glacier) is almost entirely made of ice and snow and appears to be fairly uniform an angle and devoid of major features (minor spurs exist though). The face is reasonably free of seracs so it appears possible, that reasonably safe routes could be put up on the face.

Chogolisa group

Not very clearly defined cluster of peaks between Chogolisa glacier in the west and Kaberi glacier (Kondus) in the east. The chain joins the peaks on the north side of lower Charakusa valley (Sulu, Beatrice, Nayser Brakk). Chogolisa consists of five ridges. NE ridge is farly short one, SE ridge is a bit longer and Ice Dome peak is located on the ridge, South ridge connects to Kaberi Peak and further peaks of Baltoro Kangri, SW ridge drop to Kaberi col (6500m) from where it continues to Prupuo Barakha, NW ridge connects Chogolisa with Khumul Gri (Vigne Peaks).

Baltoro Kangri

Baltoro Kangri is compact group of five peaks between Gasherbrum group on NE and Chogolisa group in SW. The group is connected with ridges to Chogolisa group and Sia Kangri, these ridges form the end of vast Baltoro glacier systems. The Baltoro Kangri group divides the upper part of the glacier into Abruzzi (northern branch) and North Chogolisa glaciers (south of Baltoro Kangri).

Main ridge runs from Kondus saddle (6470m) in SW to Baltoro Kangri IV and V, from where it continues east to Conways Saddle (5973m) and Sia Kangri. The rest of the summits are located on a ridge NW from Baltoro Kangri IV over III, II and I. There are side ridges from each of the three summits and the ridge connecting the peaks to Baltoro Kangri IV divides into two branches NW of Baltoro Kangri I.

East of Hushe

Peaks to the east of Hushe valley. The main peak of the area is K6, with Link Sar and several high six thousanders near by. There is also several lower peaks with impressive vertical rock faces. The peaks are usually climbed from Nangma or Cjharakusa valleys, bot of which have become popular venues.

• American Alpine Journal, year: 2005, isbn: 9780930410971, pp: 33-40.'Karakoram Summer - A prolific month of new~routing in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan' by Steve House.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2008, isbn: 9781933056074, pp: 72-79.'Twice Lucky, Ascents in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan' by Steve House.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2008, isbn: 9781933056074, pp: 80-87.'Handholds to Heaven - Hard free-climbing on the rock walls of Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley' by Nicolas Favresse.

• Charakusa valley. Steve House, Marko Prezelj (Slovenia) Steve Swenson, Bruce Miller, Doug Chabot and I visited the Charakusa Valley in the Hushe Region of the Karakoram in July. One of many perks to climbing in the Charakusa is that from one base camp you have access to the rock towers of the lower valley as well as the jaw-dropping alpine objectives of the upper valley. By Jeff Hollenbaugh at Alpinist on 2004-12-01.
• Charakusa Valley Pakistan: new big wall first ascents. This summer a four-man team comprised of the Belgians Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse, his brother Olivier Favresse and Adam Pustelnik from Poland travelled to Pakistan where they made three impressive big wall first ascents in the Charakusa Valley. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2007-09-20.
• Massive walls free climbed in Pakistan. By Nicolas Favresse at Alpinist on 2007-08-15.
• Slo-Am in the Charakusa: The Full Report. The Slovenian-American team of Marko Prezelj, Vince Anderson, and Steve House completed a highly productive visit to the Charakusa Valley in the Karakoram in August and September, despite a generally poor season of climbing conditions. By Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine.
• Superalpinists converge on superalpine playground. Numerous teams of world-class alpinists have chosen the stunning Charakusa Valley of Pakistan's Karakoram as their locus for big new routes this season. Despite incessant rain and snow last week, Steve House (who has made nine trips to the Karakoram), Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj climbed two new routes in the valley to prepare for their bids on the unclimbed summits of K6 West (7100m) and K7 West (ca. 6900m). By Erik Lambert at Alpinist on 2007-08-30.

Charakusa North

NW-SE chain forming the northern border of Charakusa valley: Sulu - K7 West - K7 Central - K7 Main - Link Sar - Hassan. The chain makes a sharp turn at Link Sar and and joins K6 forming perfect horseshoe at the end of the valley.

Farol is a ridge with four summits to the north of Charakusa. Most climbed aspect of the peaks is South (west) side towards Charakusa. The face has two prominent buttresses dropping from West and Central summits. East ridge with Farol Far East forms third spur. Between the spurs there are hanging glaciers. Farol Far East has very steep rocky south face that has been attempted at least twice, so far without success.

K7 is located on the NW-SE chain from Farol to Link Sar. The cluster has three main peaks, massive K7 West and much narrower and sharper K7 Central and Main summits. SW side facing Charakusa valley has several prominent buttresses with numerous rock towers on them. Perhaps the most obvious feature of this side of the mountain is large hanging glacier between K7 Central and K7 Main dropping from the col between the two. To the wet (left) of this cols is complex SW ridge system of K7 West, that contains numerous sharp rock towers including First Pillar, Second Pillar, Prezelj-Turgeon pillar and SW Pillar (6200m). To the east of the hanging glaciers lie two prominent rocky spurs of K7 Main which frame a narrow SW face. The first ascent of K7 Main was a huge siege effort taking 40 days, 450 bolts and 6500 meters of fixed line to climb the line in 1984. Since then, K7 has become somewhat of a icon of fast & light alpine style ascents.

• Mountain Info, #489 issue: 7, date: 2005-09.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2008, isbn: 9781933056074.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2011, isbn: 9781933056715, pp: 281.'Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, Pathan Brakk (ca 5,410m), Southwest Flank, Second Ascent, K7 West (6,615m), Southwest pillar, Attempt' by Matt McCormick.

• Mountain Info, #489 issue: 7, date: 2005-09.
• Mountain Info, #504 issue: 22, date: 2006-12.
• Mountain Info, #621 issue: 86, date: 2012-04. By Lindsay Griffin.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2008, isbn: 9781933056074.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2009, isbn: 9781933056098.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2011, isbn: 9781933056715.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2012, isbn: 9781933056753.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2013, isbn: 9781933056791, pp: 299-301.'Link Sar (7,041m), Northwest Face Attempt; Charakusa Climbing Overview' by Jon Griffith.

Charakusa South

W-E chain rising between Charakusa valley in the north and Nangma valley in the south: Namika - Drifika - Kapura - K6 West - K6. From K6, the ridge continues to Hassan to form a perfect horseshoe together with Charakusa north chain. Aside the main ridge, there are several long ridges both towards north and south which contain several sharp peaks with impressive rock faces. The best known of these include the likes of Fathi Brakk, Haji Brakk (5950m) and Farhod Brakk (ca. 5300m).

K6 is the highest peak in the area surrounding the Charakusa Glacier. The Charakusa gives access to the north side of K6; to the southwest of the peak is the small Nangmah (or "Nangpah") Glacier, and to the east is the larger Kaberi Glacier and the Kaberi River valley. The peak consists of four main ridges: NE ridge from main summit toward Hassin, SE ridge from main summit to col 5700m andChangi, NW ridge from K6 west to P. P.6900 and Kapura and SW ridge from K6 West. SW ridge joins into Great Tower chain forming to southern border of Nangma glacier.

K6-Changi

Chain running SE from K6. The main peak of the ridge is Changi, not to be confused with much lower Changi Tower located on the side ridge towards Nangma valley.

Amin Brakk

There are several ridges south from Charakusa south chain into Nangma valley, many of which feature impressive rock walls. There are several separate ridges, but for the sake of this site, they are all combined into single group. Zang Brakk is located further west, the others lie on the branches of large ridge due south of Thanda Parbat. The most famous of the rock peaks is Amin Brakk.

Great Tower

Peaks south of Nangma valley are generally lower that the ones on its north side and most of them have no name. Still there are several peaks around 5800m high and huge vertical rock faces.

Masherbrum group

Chogolisa group

Western chain

Chogolisa

Baltoro Kangri

Charakusa North

Charakusa South