General
When talking about Africa and climbing, most everyone think of Kilimanjaro5895m at first. If anything else rings a bell, then it would most likely be sport climbing and bouldering in South Africa or Mount Kenya5199m. However, there's much more to climbing potential in Africa. For example high peaks of and Ruwenzori, High Atlas and Ethiopia offer mountaineering challenges to those interested in treading the path less traveled while huge rock walls of Morocco, South Africa and Madagaskar offer extreme technical challenges on rock of very alpine proportions.
The prominent narrow is couloir in the center is famous Diamond Couloir. Credit:
Utilizator:Radu.vatcu, Shot on
2012-03-14 Photo taken in
Mount Kenya National Park, Nyeri, Central Kenya, Kenya.(c) Radu Vatcu, licensed under:
CC BY-SA 3.0.
- Northern Africa
Atlas mountains the highest largest mountain range in northern Africa. The broken chain extends for over 1500km across Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. Highest mountains are located in High Atlas, the western part of the range culminating at Toubkal (4165m), located only 75km south of the city of Marrakech. Other ranges, such as Ahaggar Mountains are lower and a lot less known. Todra Gorge and Taghia Gorges, as well as Tafraoute have gained some popularity among foreign climbers. Particularly as a autumn-winter-spring destination.
- West Africa As far as high mountain s and climbing goes, Western Africa is least known part of the continent. The highest peak is Mount Cameroon (4040m).
- Ethiopian Highlands The Ethiopian Highlands is a rugged mass of mountains in Ethiopia in northeast Africa. It forms the largest continuous area of its elevation in the continent, with little of its surface falling below 1500m, while the summits reach heights of up to 4550m. It is sometimes called the Roof of Africa due to its height and large area. Most of the Ethiopian Highlands are part of central and northern Ethiopia, and its northernmost portion reaches into Eritrea. The highest part of Ethiopian Highlands is Semien Mountains in the north, culminating at Ras Dashan (4550m). The southeastern portion's highest peaks are located in Bale Mountains, which rises to nearly as great altitude as Semien Mountains with peaks reaching above 4000m. Among these are Mount Tullu Demtu (4337m), which is the second-highest peak in Ethiopia, and Mount Batu (4307m).
- East Africa
The highest and by far the most famous peaks of the continent, Kilimanjaro (5895m) and Mount Kenya (5199m) are located in the eastern Africa. Both are free-standing peaks located outside of any real mountain range. Albeit probably unknown to most climbers, there are several other high peaks in Eastern Africa, which is by far most mountainous area of the continent with vast highlands. Most alpine mountain s of the continent are to be found on the Western side of Rift valley, particularly in Rwenzori (Mount Stanley, 5109m).
- Southern Africa
While not having any giants like Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya, southern part of Africa also has several mountain ranges. The highest ranges are found Drakensberg (culminating at Thabana Ntlenyana, 3482m), Mulanje massif (Sapitwa Peak, 3002) and in the island of Madagaskar. That said the beast known climbing in the southern part of the continent is certainly to be found in the rock faces of iconic Table Mountain (1087m), close to Cape Town.
- Indian Ocean islands
Madagascar is a large island in the Indian ocean, 380km off the southeast coast of Africa. Its narrow coastal plain rises to a high mountainous plateau in the island's center. The mountains' granite peaks rise above grasslands and cultivated slopes and valleys. Highest mountains are Maromokotro (2876m), Ankaratara (2643m) and Pic Boby (2658m). Towns and villages are scattered throughout the mountains, predominantly inhabited by native islanders known as the Malagasy. Also Réunion Island has high mountains.
References
- Africa. Alpine Journal articles by area. At Alpine Journal.
- Rock climbing in Africa and the Middle East. "Rock climbing in Africa offers the opportunity to go somewhere different and adventurous for a rock climbing holiday. Some of the best climbing to be found in Africa are at Rocklands in South Africa and the Moroccan Mountains, particularly at Tafraoute and the Todra Gorge." At Climb Europe.
- Africa. Africa holds great potential, from the deserts fascinating rock formations in Egypt, to the rugged mountains in Eastern Africa and then the jagged rocky coastlines of South Africa. The iconic Mt Mount Kenya offers climbers a challenge of epic proportions while the southern parts of Africa offer less hostile climbing. Table Mountain in South Africa is seen as a tourist attraction for it's beauty- but you can also find great climbing around these parts. While the continent hosts some exciting named routes let it be known that the vast majority of the continent remains untapped and holds amazing potential and an endless amount of routes waiting to be discovered. At rockclimbing.com.
- Africa's magnificent mountains: Seven amazing climbs. "If you're looking to soak up the continent's breathtaking scenery, and have an eye for adventure, then there's only one place to be: at the top." By Teo Kermeliotis at CNN on 2013-07-09.
Northern Africa
Atlas mountains the highest largest mountain range in northern Africa. The broken chain extends for over 1500km across Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. Highest mountains are located in High Atlas, the western part of the range culminating at Toubkal (4165m), located only 75km south of the city of Marrakech. Other ranges, such as Ahaggar Mountains are lower and a lot less known. Todra Gorge and Taghia Gorges, as well as Tafraoute have gained some popularity among foreign climbers. Particularly as a autumn-winter-spring destination.
- Atlas Mountains
Atlas mountains are the most northernly and the highest of the mountains in northern Africa. The broken chain of Atlas extends for over 1500km across Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia.
- Ahaggar Mountains Ahaggar Mountains, aka Hoggar Mountains, is high altitude area in the Sahara desert. The highest point of the range is Mount Tahat (2918m).
- Tibest Mountains Tibest is cluster on dormant volcanoes in the middle of Sahara desert. The highest peak is Emi Koussi (3415m).
- Marrah Mountains >Marrah Mountains are a range of volcanic peaks located in the center of the Darfur region of Sudan. The massif rises up to 3042m (Deriba Caldera).
- Egypt & Sinai main peaks of Egypt are found in Red Seah Hills located to the east of Nile and in the Sinai Peninsula. The country's highpoint is Jabal Katrinah (Mount Catherine or Gabal Katrîne, 2642m). Probably the most famous epak howeverf is Mount Sinai (2285m).
- Rock Climbing Morocco. "Morocco is only a short flight from Europe, is a country that is relatively cheap to visit and stay, as well as offering something somewhere different and adventurous for a rock climbing holiday. The weather is generally very good (particularly in the winter) and the rock climbing is good on generally solid rock. The three main rock climbing areas are all situated in the mountains, which are Tafraoute, Todra Gorge, and Taghia Gorge, as shown on the map below." At Climb Europe.
- Morocco - climbing at the end of the road. By Sarah Harrison at PlanetFear.com.
- New routes on the Hand of Fatima. Overcoming intestinal distress and dehydration, Giovanni Ongaro, Marco Vago, Adriano Selva, Cece Bugada and Simone Pedeferri, from the legendary Italian climbing club, the Lecco Spiders, established three new routes in the Hombori region of Mali throughout December. In three consecutive weeks of climbing in the Hombori, the climbers repeated easier lines and established three new ascents in the Hand of Fatima Group. By Erik Lambert at Alpinist on 2007-02-16.
Atlas Mountains
Atlas mountains are the most northernly and the highest of the mountains in northern Africa. The broken chain of Atlas extends for over 1500km across Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia.
- Moroccan Atlas
- Middle Atlas Northernmost chain of Moroccan Atlas Mountains.
- High Atlas
Highest mountains are located in High Atlas, located in central Morocco between Anti-Atlas in SW and Middle Atlas in NE.
- Anti-Atlas ranges
SW part of Atlas Mountains. Desolate world of rocky outcrops and lunar landscapes where the contrasts are extreme. Most of the land is dry and barren, but water gathers and runs in some remote places, forming clear basins. The summits of the Anti-Atlas reach average heights of 2500–2700m, with a few peaks reaching higher. Most of the better known rock climbing destinations such as Tafraout and Todra are located in Anti-Atlas.
- Saharan Atlas The Saharan Atlas of Algeria is the eastern portion of the Atlas mountain range. Though not as high as the Grand Atlas, they are far more imposing than the Tell Atlas range that runs to the north of them and closer to the coast. The highest peak in the range is the 2236m high Djebel Aissa.
- Tell Atlas Long west to east chain along Mediterranean Coast and to the east of Middle Atlas.
The summers of the area are hot and harsh while winter snows are very heavy. The high peaks maintain their snow caps for much of the year, but there are no glaciers. The two best climbing seasons are in the winter/spring period, from February to May, when snow is still present but temperatures are comfortable; and in early Autumn (September), when the mountains are dry and the weather is cool again before winter storms return.
- Alsford, Emma & Donnithorne, Paul: Morocco Rock - Jebel El Kest & Taskra North. Isbn: 9780957366602. Crack Addicts, 2012.
- Groenewegen, Wynand; Berg, Marloes van Den & Jaeggi, Daniel: Rock Climbing Atlas - South Western Europe and Morocco. Isbn: 9789078587033. Rocks Unlimited Publications, 2007.
- A Taste of Africa. When I met two American girls in El Chorro, Spain, it seemed easy to slip into that end of the day chat with a couple of like minded strangers at the crag. I could tell straight away that they were competent climbers, and obviously super keen too, it was something about the way they flowed on the rock, merrily chatting their way through each crux. By Emma Alsford at UKC Climbing on 2012-10.
High Atlas
Highest mountains are located in High Atlas, located in central Morocco between Anti-Atlas in SW and Middle Atlas in NE.
The highest mountain of northern Africa is Toubkal (4165m), located only 75km south of the city of Marrakech. It dominates the area with its steep rocky faces, and is surrounded by massive granite buttresses and several secondary peaks. There are several other mountains rising to around 4000 meters.
Despite a scarcity of roads, most of the major mountains are easily accessible. The approach to the mountains is short, and there are mountain huts, plenty of guides, good trails, and mules to carry gear.
- Brown, Hamish: The High Atlas - Treks and Climbs on Morocco's Biggest and Best Mountains, 1 Edition edition. Isbn: 9781852846718. Cicerone Press Limited, 2012.
- Clark, Des: Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas, 1 Edition edition. Isbn: 9781852846114. Cicerone Press Limited, 2011.
- Central High Atlas. Rising to 4167m at the well known Mount Toubkal, the Central High Atlas mountain range has 6 peaks over 4000m (The remaining peak is Irhil Mgoun 4078m to the N.E.)and a whole host of 3000m peaks. The whole Atlas range runs in a WSW - ENE line, stretching from Agadir on the coast of Morocco right through the top of Algeria, eventually petering out in Tunisia! However, the Central High Atlas is a core of high mountains near Marrakech. By MattHC at SummitPost.
- Moroccan High Atlas Winter Mountaineering. For those looking for a winter mountaineering fix, the Moroccan High Atlas range offers a very different experience compared with the often fickle UK winter climbing conditions. Coupled with the contrasting North African Arabic/Berber culture, a winter climbing trip to Morocco is much more than just big mountains and technical routes. By Thomas Skelhon at UKC Climbing on 2015-04.
Anti-Atlas ranges
SW part of Atlas Mountains. Desolate world of rocky outcrops and lunar landscapes where the contrasts are extreme. Most of the land is dry and barren, but water gathers and runs in some remote places, forming clear basins. The summits of the Anti-Atlas reach average heights of 2500–2700m, with a few peaks reaching higher. Most of the better known rock climbing destinations such as Tafraout and Todra are located in Anti-Atlas.
Todra Gorge and Taghia Gorges, as well as Tafraoute have gained some popularity among foreign climbers. Particularly as a autumn-winter-spring destination.
- Broadbent, Stephen: Moroccan Anti-Atlas North - Rock Climbing on the North Side of Jebel El Kest. Isbn: 9780956728807. Oxford Alpine Club, 2010.
- Broadbent, Steve: Tafraout - Rock Climbing in Morocco's Anti-Atlas. Isbn: 9780956728821. Oxford Alpine Club, 2013.
- Davies, Claude: Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas - Tafroute and Jebel El Kest (Climbing Guides Series). Isbn: 9781852844127. Cicerone Press Limited, 2004.
- Todra - Rock Climbing in the Todra Gorge. Isbn: 9780956728883. Oxford Alpine Club, 2015.
- Broadbent, Steve: Tafraout Pocket Guide - Afantinzar, Samazar and Tagzene Volume 3: Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco's Anti-Atlas. Isbn: 9780956728876. Oxford Alpine Club, 2014.
- Broadbent, Steve: Tafraout Pocket Guide - Tarakatine, Sidi M'zal, Idaougnidif and Jebel Taskra Volume 2: Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco's Anti-Atlas. Isbn: 9780956728869. Oxford Alpine Club, 2014.
- Climbing in Morocco - Gorges du Todra. By Nicolò Berzi at Planet Mountain.
- Taghia. Taghia, a little village on the northern side of the Central Atlas Mountains, sits at the confluence of three huge canyons (Akka n'Tazarte, Akka n'Taghia and Akka n'Kandate) each of which are ten kilometers long, 200 to 700 meters deep and sometimes as little as two meters wide. By Alain Bruzy at Alpinist on 2004-03-01.
- Taghia, Morocco. The stunning orange limestone walls of Taghia are known to visitors as having some of the greatest multi-pitch bolted routes anywhere. By Virgil Scott at UKC Climbing on 2009-08.
West Africa
As far as high mountain s and climbing goes, Western Africa is least known part of the continent. The highest peak is Mount Cameroon4070m (4040m).
- Guinea Highlands
- Niger River Area
- Cameroon Mountains The highest peak of Western Africa is Mount Cameroon (4040m). It is active isolated volcano that rises from the coast through tropical rainforest to a bare summit, which is cold, windy, and occasionally dusted with snow.
- Bight of Benin Bigh of Benin consists of mountaine ous islands of Equatorial Guinea and São Tomé. The highest peak of the area is Pico Basilé (3008m).
- West-Central Africa
- Massif de Bongos
Ethiopian Highlands
The Ethiopian Highlands is a rugged mass of mountains in Ethiopia in northeast Africa. It forms the largest continuous area of its elevation in the continent, with little of its surface falling below 1500m, while the summits reach heights of up to 4550m. It is sometimes called the Roof of Africa due to its height and large area. Most of the Ethiopian Highlands are part of central and northern Ethiopia, and its northernmost portion reaches into Eritrea. The highest part of Ethiopian Highlands is Semien Mountains in the north, culminating at Ras Dashan4550m (4550m). The southeastern portion's highest peaks are located in Bale Mountains, which rises to nearly as great altitude as Semien Mountains with peaks reaching above 4000m. Among these are
Ethiopian Highlands
(4337m), which is the second-highest peak in Ethiopia, and
Ethiopian Highlands
(4307m).
- Northwestern Ethiopion Highlands
- Balta Mountains
- Central Ethiopian Highland
- Choqa Mountains
- Denakil
- Gurage Mountains
- Kollo Massif
- Lasta Massif
- Salale Mountains
- Semien Mountains The Semien Mountains are located in North-Western corner of Ethiopia and contain the country’s highest peaks. The tallest point is Ras Dashen (4543m), the fourth highest mountain in Africa. Other notable peaks are Biuat (4437m) and Abba Yared.
- Tigray Mountains
- Southeastern Ethiopion Highlands
- Arsi Mountains
- Bale Mountains
- Mount Gugu
- Climbing in Ethiopia. Ethiopia is part of the Horn of Africa, it is the oldest African independent country and it is 4.6 times larger than the UK . It covers 1.13 million Km², and has the second largest population of any African country. By Mandy Tee at UKC Climbing on 2015-02.
East Africa
The highest and by far the most famous peaks of the continent, Kilimanjaro (5895m) and Mount Kenya (5199m) are located in the eastern Africa. Both are free-standing peaks located outside of any real mountain range. Albeit probably unknown to most climbers, there are several other high peaks in Eastern Africa, which is by far most mountainous area of the continent with vast highlands. Most alpine mountain s of the continent are to be found on the Western side of Rift valley, particularly in Rwenzori (Mount Stanley, 5109m).
- Western Rift Valley Cluster of ranges located to the western edge of east African Rift valley.
- Imatong Mountains The Imatong Mountains (also Immatong, or Matonge) are mainly located in southeastern South Sudan, and extend into the Northern Region of Uganda. Mount Kinyeti is the highest mountain of the range at 3187m, and the highest point of South Sudan.
- Mitumba Mountains Mitumba Mountain range stretches along the Western Rift Valley in Eastern Congo (DRC), west of lake Tanganyika. The two main peaks, Mount Kahuzi (3308m) and Mount Biéga (2790m) are extinct volcanoes.
- Eastern Rift Valley Cluster of ranges located to the eastern edge of east African Rift valley.
- Rwenzori Snow-capped range of Rwenzori (also spelled Rwenzori and Rwenjura) is located to the east of Lake Victoria, just north of equator. The highest peak of the range is Mount Stanley (5109m) with nearby Mount Speke and Mount Baker being the other major peaks of the range. The range is high enough to sport snow fields and glaciers despite its location almost squarely on the equator.
- Virunga Mountains The Virunga Mountains (also known as Mufumbiro) are a chain of volcanoes in East Africa, along the northern border of Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), and Uganda. The mountain range is a branch of the Albertine Rift Mountains, which border the western branch of the East African Rift. The mountain range consists of eight major volcanoes. Most of them are dormant, except Mount Nyiragongo (3462m) and Mount Nyamuragira (3063m). The highest peak of the range is Mount Karisimbi (4507m).
- Burundi Highlands
- Central East Africa Plateau Central East Africa Plateau is located around Lake Victoria to the east of East African Rift. The highest peak is Mount Elgon (4321m). It is colcano with several possible treks/scrambles leading to the summit.
- East Central Kenya
Mount Kenya (5199m) is tha main/sole attrfaction to climbers in East Central Kenya. Albeit lower than Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya has more to offer for climbers. While Kilimanjaro offers easy hiking trail to the highest summit, reaching the highest point of Mount Kenya requires technical rock or ice climbing. Most of the people visiting Mont Kenya don't go beyond the trail end at Point Lenana (4985m). Besides rock routes, both Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya have several ice climbs, most famous of them Diamond Couloir and slightly easier Ice Windows on Mount Kenya.
- Northeast Tanzania
Kilimanjaro offers easy hiking trail to the highest summit. Besides those, probably the best known climbing routes are Heim Glacier and Breach Wall Direct. Melting of the glaciers has deteriorated the conditions off all ice climbs in Africa.
- Southern Tanzania Lowest and least mountaineous part of east Africa. The highest peak is Mtorwi (2980m).
Mountain climbing in the Africa is dominated by two highest mountains, Kilimanjaro (5895m) and Mount Kenya (5199m). Both are free-standing peaks located outside of any real mountain range. Albeit lower, Mount Kenya has more to offer for climbers. While Kilimanjaro offers easy hiking trail to the highest summit, reaching the highest point of Mount Kenya requires technical rock or ice climbing. Most of the people visiting Mont Kenya don't go beyond the trail end at Point Lenana (4985m). Besides rock routes, both Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya have several ice climbs, most famous of them Diamond Couloir and slightly easier Ice Windows on Mount Kenya.
Both Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya are extremely popular among trekkers, although reaching true summit of Kenya requires technical rock climbing. Besides rock routes, both Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya have several ice climbs, most famous of them Diamond Couloir and slightly easier Ice Windows on Mount Kenya. On Kilimanjaro, probably the best known climbing routes are Heim Glacier and Breach Wall Direct. Melting of the glaciers has deteriorated the conditions off all ice climbs in Africa.
Best Climbing Months for rock climbs are January and February (dry season on South side) and August and September (dry season on North side). The best conditions for snow/ice on the south face occur between mid May and late October. Like all glaciers in Africa, those on Mount Kenya are in retreat. Because of this, the ice climbs are not in condition every year.
- East Africa Climbing Guide. Plenty of information about the mountains and routes. Includes the most significant mountains of Eastern Africa. A truly indespensible site.
Rwenzori
Snow-capped range of Rwenzori (also spelled Rwenzori and Rwenjura) is located to the east of Lake Victoria, just north of equator. The highest peak of the range is Mount Stanley5109m (5109m) with nearby Mount Speke4890m and Mount Baker4844m being the other major peaks of the range. The range is high enough to sport snow fields and glaciers despite its location almost squarely on the equator.
The range is very compact consisting of six main massifs:
- Mount Stanley Mount Stgan ley is the highest summit of the Ruwenzori Range ans well as the third highest in Africa (after Mounts Kilimanjaro and Kenya). The massif is located between Lake Albert (Lake Mobutu Sese Seko) to the north and Lake Edward to the south on the Congo (Kinshasa)–Uganda border. The massif has multiple summikts of which Margherita Peak is the highest.
- Mount Speke
- Mount Baker Massif separated from Mount Stanley by Scott Elliot pass (4372m).
- Mount Emin
- Mount Gessi
- Mount Luigi di Savoia
Due to significant height and, alpine nature and exotics would no doubt attract climbers, but unfortunately since Uganda's independence from the British Empire, the Rwenzori Mountains have repeatedly become sanctuaries to rebel groups, thus keeping the range practically out of bounds for alpinists.
East Central Kenya
Mount Kenya (5199m) is tha main/sole attrfaction to climbers in East Central Kenya. Albeit lower than Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya has more to offer for climbers. While Kilimanjaro offers easy hiking trail to the highest summit, reaching the highest point of Mount Kenya requires technical rock or ice climbing. Most of the people visiting Mont Kenya don't go beyond the trail end at Point Lenana (4985m). Besides rock routes, both Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya have several ice climbs, most famous of them Diamond Couloir and slightly easier Ice Windows on Mount Kenya.
- Allan, Iain: Guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro, 5Rev Ed edition. Isbn: 978-9966985606. African Books Collective, 1991.
- Burns, Cameron M.: Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya. Isbn: 9781871890983. Menasha Ridge Press, 1998.
Northeast Tanzania
Kilimanjaro offers easy hiking trail to the highest summit. Besides those, probably the best known climbing routes are Heim Glacier and Breach Wall Direct. Melting of the glaciers has deteriorated the conditions off all ice climbs in Africa.
- Allan, Iain: Guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro, 5Rev Ed edition. Isbn: 978-9966985606. African Books Collective, 1991.
- Burns, Cameron M.: Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya. Isbn: 9781871890983. Menasha Ridge Press, 1998.
Southern Africa
general
While not having any giants like Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya, southern part of Africa also has several mountain ranges. The highest ranges are found Drakensberg (culminating at Thabana Ntlenyana, 3482m), Mulanje massif (Sapitwa Peak, 3002) and in the island of Madagaskar. That said the beast known climbing in the southern part of the continent is certainly to be found in the rock faces of iconic Table Mountain (1087m), close to Cape Town.
- Mulanje massif
Mulanje is a large granite massif in Malawi, a small African nation, situated snugly between southern Tanzania, northeastern Zambia, and Northern Mozambique. The massif rises abruptly from the surrounding plain, and reaches its highest point of 3002m in Sapitwa Peak. Mulanje has a well organized system of trails and huts, leading through forests of large cedar trees.
- Drakensberg
Drakensberg is a major escarpment of South Africa, stretching for hundreds of miles along the southeastern edge of the vast interior plateau. For much of their length, the mountains are capped by a thick layer of basaltic lava, which has been heavily eroded over the centuries, leaving a bewildering assortment of rugged blocks and pinnacles. Erosion has caused the isolation of many free-standing rock peaks, excellent for rock climbing. The mountains are typically covered with snow and ice in Winter. The highest peaks and most spectacular scenery are found in a compact area along the 90-mile boundary between Lesotho and Natal provinces. Here crags and pinnacles tower above sandstone foothills and rolling grasslands. Some of the more popular climbing peaks are Mont-aux-Sources (3282m), Monk's Cowl (3234m) and Cathedral Peak (3004m).
- Cape Town
Large and flat-topped Table mountain (1087m) is located southwestern corner of Africa, close to Cape Town. Its deeply scarred and craggy sandstone cliffs are one of the most popular climbs in the world, and there are over 500 documented routes to the top, many of them serious technical climbs.
South Africa has been known for bouldering and some sport climbing, but during the recent years larger scale rock climbing has become somewhat exposed to the world. One of the better known rock climbing venues is Large and flat-topped Table mountain (1087m) is located southwestern corner of Africa, close to Cape Town. Its deeply scarred and craggy sandstone cliffs are one of the most popular climbs in the world, and there are over 500 documented routes to the top, many of them serious technical climbs.
- The Mountain Club of South Africa
- Rocklands trad climbing for James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini. From 19 June to 9 July James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini travelled to South Africa to check out the trad climbing at Rocklands. By Planetmountain at Planet Mountain on 2014-07-18.
- Africa Fusion Film. Alex Honnold (USA) and Hazel Findlay (UK) head to Southern Africa for an experience of a lifetime. By Fresh Rock Films at Rollo mixed on 2015-02-24.
- South Africa's Best Dispatch 5.13 Big Wall. Amid thunderstorms on November 24-25, Clinton Martinengo, Charles Edelstein and Stewart Middlemiss established the most difficult big wall line in South Africa on Blouberg North's main cliff, a thousand-foot-high and mile-wide quartzite wall in the Limpopo Province. By Erik Lambert at Alpinist on 2007-12-23.
- Culture of South African Alpinism. Does one exist? This was a questioned posed to a South African Mountain Guides Association (SAMGA) representative by a member of a very respected international climbing authority in recent times. By Rob Powell at ClimbZA on 2013-07-27.
- Waterval Boven: South Africa's Sport Climbing Mecca. Driving up a pot-holed dirt track in the middle of the night, eyes out on stalks, wondering if we've taken a wrong turn and with the rest of the team tense and silent in the back of a Fiat Punto - accessing African crags can be quite a challenge! It’s a very bumpy final 7km to the clearing and a welcome sign saying Tranquilitas Farm. Congratulations, you've made it to South Africa's climbing Mecca – Boven! By Sam Hamer at UKC Climbing on 2015-04.
Mulanje massif
Mulanje is a large granite massif in Malawi, a small African nation, situated snugly between southern Tanzania, northeastern Zambia, and Northern Mozambique. The massif rises abruptly from the surrounding plain, and reaches its highest point of 3002m in Sapitwa Peak. Mulanje has a well organized system of trails and huts, leading through forests of large cedar trees.
Drakensberg
Drakensberg is a major escarpment of South Africa, stretching for hundreds of miles along the southeastern edge of the vast interior plateau. For much of their length, the mountains are capped by a thick layer of basaltic lava, which has been heavily eroded over the centuries, leaving a bewildering assortment of rugged blocks and pinnacles. Erosion has caused the isolation of many free-standing rock peaks, excellent for rock climbing. The mountains are typically covered with snow and ice in Winter. The highest peaks and most spectacular scenery are found in a compact area along the 90-mile boundary between Lesotho and Natal provinces. Here crags and pinnacles tower above sandstone foothills and rolling grasslands. Some of the more popular climbing peaks are Mont-aux-Sources (3282m), Monk's Cowl (3234m) and Cathedral Peak (3004m).
The highest peak is Thabana Ntlenyana, at 3482m. Other notable peaks include Mafadi (3450m), Makoaneng (3416m), Njesuthi (3408m), Champagne Castle (3377m), Giant's Castle (3315m), Ben Macdhui (3001m) and Popple Peak (3331m), all of these are in the area bordering on Lesotho. Another popular area for hikers is Cathedral Peak. North of Lesotho the range becomes lower and less rugged until entering Mpumalanga where the quartzite mountains of the Transvaal Drakensberg are loftier and more broken and form the eastern rim of the Transvaal Basin, the Blyde River Canyon lying within this stretch. The geology of this section is the same as and continuous with that of the Magaliesberg.
Cape Town
Large and flat-topped Table mountain (1087m) is located southwestern corner of Africa, close to Cape Town. Its deeply scarred and craggy sandstone cliffs are one of the most popular climbs in the world, and there are over 500 documented routes to the top, many of them serious technical climbs.
Indian Ocean islands
Madagascar is a large island in the Indian ocean, 380km off the southeast coast of Africa. Its narrow coastal plain rises to a high mountainous plateau in the island's center. The mountains' granite peaks rise above grasslands and cultivated slopes and valleys. Highest mountains are Maromokotro (2876m), Ankaratara (2643m) and Pic Boby (2658m). Towns and villages are scattered throughout the mountains, predominantly inhabited by native islanders known as the Malagasy. Also Réunion Island has high mountains.
- North Indian Ocean Islands Socotra High Point (1503m)
- Mozambique Channel The highest peak on Mozambique Channel is Kartala (Karthala, 2361m). It is the southernmost and larger of the two shield volcanoes forming Grande Comore island, the largest island in the nation of Comoros. The Karthala volcano is very active, having erupted more than 20 times since the 19th century.
- Madagaskar
Madagascar is a large island in the Indian ocean, 380km off the southeast coast of Africa. Its narrow coastal plain rises to a high mountainous plateau in the island's center. The mountains' granite peaks rise above grasslands and cultivated slopes and valleys. Highest mountains are Maromokotro (2876m), Ankaratara (2643m) and Pic Boby (2658m). Towns and villages are scattered throughout the mountains, predominantly inhabited by native islanders known as the Malagasy. Also Réunion Island has high mountains.
- Mascarene Islands The Mascarene Islands or Mascarenes or Mascarenhas Archipelago is a group of islands in the Indian Ocean east of Madagascar consisting of the islands belonging to the Republic of Mauritius as well as the French department of Réunion. Réunion is home to the highest peaks in the Mascarenes, the shield volcanoes Piton des Neiges (3069 m) and Piton de la Fournaise (2525 m). Piton de la Fournaise, on the southeastern corner of Réunion, is one of the most active volcanoes in the world, erupting last in 2019.
- South Indian Ocean Islands The highest peak of the are is Big Ben (also Big Ben Peak, Old Ben Mountain, Emperor William Peak and Kaiser Wilhelm-Berg, 2745m) dominating he geography of Heard Island in the southern Indian Ocean.
Madagaskar
Madagascar is a large island in the Indian ocean, 380km off the southeast coast of Africa. Its narrow coastal plain rises to a high mountainous plateau in the island's center. The mountains' granite peaks rise above grasslands and cultivated slopes and valleys. Highest mountains are Maromokotro (2876m), Ankaratara (2643m) and Pic Boby (2658m). Towns and villages are scattered throughout the mountains, predominantly inhabited by native islanders known as the Malagasy. Also Réunion Island has high mountains.
- Big new route on Africa's hardest granite. Ondra Benes and Tomas Sobotka from the Czech Republic recently combined forces with Austrians Harald Berger and Florian Scheimpflug to complete a big new route in Madagascar's Tsaranoro Massif. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2006-11-28.
- Big Wall Free Climbing in Africa's Yosemite. The British team of John and Anne Arran, Gaz Parry, Giles Cornah and Jerry Gore was one of the groups on the scene, as was the French-Polish team of Pierre Muller, Denis Roy, Marie-Claire Hourcade and David Kaszlikowski. All managed notable outings on some of the finest routes of the Massif. By David Kaszlikowski & Jerry Gore at Alpinist on 2006-11-28.
- Madagascar - Tsaranoro. The huge granite walls of Tsaranoro have been a popular adventure climbing destination since the late 1990's. By Jack Geldard at UKC Climbing on 2010-10.
Mountains
North Africa
Atlas Mountains
High Atlas
Toubkal Atlas
Jbel Toubkal31.06-7.9154167
- Jbel Toubkal (4167m31.06-7.915)
- Toubkal West (430m31.0559-7.9233)
The highest mountain of Atlas Mountains and entire in northern Africa. The peak is located 60km south of Marrakech and is a popular destination for climbers.
1923-06-02 | Jbel Toubkal, , First ascent | V. Berger, H. Dolbeau & Marquis de Segonzac |
- World Mountaineering pp.272-275
South side
Ikhibi Sud (South Cwm).
F; 35°; 950m, 3-4h from the hut. Normal route. From Refuge du Toubkal to a hanging valley, then breaks right towards a Col, Tiz n’ Toubkal (3940m, 2-2,5h from the hut) and takes easy slopes up to a final narrow crest and the small summit plateau. 3-4h from the hut.
West side
WSW Ridge (SW Ridge, Ouanoums Ridge).
D-; III+/IV/HS/VS 4b, Sco II/III. Something of a classic alpine style climb with marked steps and a fine situation. Leads to a shoulder, Toubkal West, and the col, beyond where the normal route is joined. A splendid winter route.
Ouanoukrim (Ras Ouanoukrim)31.036389-7.9469444088
West High Atlas
Tell Atlas
Djurdjura Range
Akouker
Lalla Khedidja (Tamgut Aâlayen, Azeru amghur)36.44754.2283332308
Range highpoint (Tell Atlas)
Sahara
Tibesti Mountains
Emi Koussi19.79361118.5519443445
Country highpoint (Chad)
Marra Mountains
Deriba Caldera (Jebel Marra)12.95138924.2588893042
Country highpoint (Sudan)
Hoggar Mountains
Mount Tahat23.28755.5291672908
Country highpoint (Algeria)
1931-01-01 | Mount Tahat, , First ascent | Edouard Wyss-Dunant |
West Africa
Cameroon Line
Mount Cameroon4.2166679.1722224070
1861-12-18 | Mount Cameroon, , First ascent | Gustav Mann, Richard Francis Burton, Atilano Calvo Iturburu, Krumen porters |
Ethiopian Highlands
Ethiopian Highland
Semien Mountains
Ras Dashen (Ras Dashan)13.23666738.37254550
1841-01-14 | Ras Dashen, , First ascent | Pierre V.A. Ferret, Joseph G. Galinier |
East Africa
Surrounding East African Rift
Kilimanjaro
Kilimanjaro (Kibo, Uhuru Peak)-3.07583337.35255895
- Kibo (5895m-3.07583337.3525)
- Mawenzi (5149m)
- Shira (4005m)
Kilimanjaro, an extinct volcano, is located on the border of Tanzania and Kenya, just 3° south of the equator. It is the highest mountain in Africa (and thus one of the seven summits) and is also considered to be the highest free-standing mountain (that is to say that it is not part of the any mountain range). Kilimanjaro has several summits. Uhuru Peak is the highest point on Kibo, the main pudding shaped elevation. Mawenzi (5149m) is more jagged and separated from Kibo by The Saddle, a flat semi-desert area extending for 5km. Rock quality on both of these summits is poor. Normal routes on top of Kilimanjaro involve no climbing (there are 7 hiking routes, some of them feature scrambling). However, there are also several climbing routes. Best known of them are probably Heim Glacier and Breach Wall Direct on the south-west face of Kibo. The whole face is steep and heavily glaciated, extending for 5km and broken only by one easy passage - The Western Breach.
1889-01-01 | Kilimanjaro, , First ascent | Hans Meyer, Ludwig Purtscheller |
1957-01-01 | Kilimanjaro, Heim glacier original, First ascent | Heim glacier original: A. Nelson, H. J. Cooke & D. N. Goodall |
1962-09-22 | Kilimanjaro, Kersten glacier original, First ascent | Kersten glacier original: Walter Welsch & Leo Herncarek |
1978-01-31 | Kilimanjaro, Breach Wall Direct, First ascent | Breach Wall Direct: Reinhold Messner & Renzler |
- Top Climbs pp.70-71
- World Mountaineering pp.288-291
Machame (the whiskey route).
nccs II/AK1; 4000m. From the Park Post (1900m) a well marked path to Machame huts (5h). Above, cross a small valley and up ridges and through heather with occasional scrambling to head of a river valley. Traverse west across this then continue north to the Shira Hut (3800m, 5h). The damaged Lava Tower Hut is reached by a well-cairned trail leading east (3,5h).
South side
Heim glacier original. D/nccs III+; 12h. 1957-01-01First ascentA. Nelson, H. J. Cooke & D. N. Goodall, 1957.
Kersten glacier original. nccs III+. 1962-09-22First ascentWalter Welsch & Leo Herncarek, 1962-09-22.
Decken glacier. AD/nccs III.
Marangu (Coca-Cola).
F; 4096m. Normal route. Starting from the Marangu Gate (1980m) a wide path to the Mandara Hut, 2700m (4h). Shortly after leaving the Mandara Hut the forest gives way to giant heather, then moorland; the roomy Horombo huts are situated in this zone at 3700m (5h). Higher up the vegetation thins and the last water trickle is passed. The path continues to the gravelly Saddle which is crossed at length to the Kibo Huts (4703m), situated below the Kibo scree slopes (5h). Starting well before dawn, climb the tedious scree to the crater rim and Gillman's Point (5680m) (5h). Now more easily along the crater rim for about 1.5km to Uhuru Peak (1h30).
Breach wall
Located to (S)W side of the summit
Breach Wall Direct. V ED2; V/WI6; 900m. 1978-01-31First ascentReinhold Messner & Renzler, 1978-01-31.
Mount Kenya
Mount Kenya (Batian Peak)-0.15194437.3083335199
- Batian (5199m-0.15194437.308333)
- Nelion (5188m)
- Point Lenana (4985m)
Mount Kenya is the second highest mountain in Africa. It is an isolated stratovolcano which dominate the horizons from the plains of Central Kenyan highlands, towering just seventy miles north of Nairobi, and ten miles south of the Equator. The summit region is a series sharp ridges interpersed with glaciers. Two main summits, twin rock towers of Batian (5199m) and Nelion (5188m), are separated by the Gate of the Mists (5144m). There are several subsidiary summits around the two main peaks. The third highest peak, Point Lenana (4985m), is accessible to hikers and is ascended by hundreds of people each year. Numerous excellent rock and ice routes lead to two highest summits, all of them featuring technical climbing. Rock is mostly syenite, a superb rough rock for climbing. The most popular route is the McInder on the South-East Face. Normal route on the North Face is longer and more difficult. West Ridge is reputed to be the finest mountaineering route on Mt Kenya, while Diamond Buttress Direct is a classic hard route. Many of these generally require a bivouac, satellite peaks such as Point John offer fine one day climbs. Despite being located close to Equator, Mount Kenya has several glaciers. There are two legendary ice climbs on the South Face. 1000 meter long Diamond Couloir (TD) is harder and more famous of the two while Ice Window (AD+/D) is shorter and easier.
1929-01-01 | Mount Kenya, McInder's route, First ascent | McInder's route: E. Shipton & P. Wyn Harris |
1930-01-01 | Mount Kenya, West Ridge, First ascent | West Ridge: E.E.Shipton, H.W.Tilman |
1944-01-01 | Mount Kenya, North Face Standard Route, First ascent | North Face Standard Route: A. H. Firmin & P. Hicks |
1973-01-01 | Mount Kenya, Diamond Couloir, First ascent | Diamond Couloir: P Snyder & T Mathenge (avoiding headwall by ramp on the left). First ascent through the headwall by Y Chouinard & M Covington in 1975. |
1973-01-01 | Mount Kenya, Ice Window, First ascent | Ice Window: P. Snyder, Y. Laulan & S. LeDain |
1976-01-01 | Mount Kenya, Diamond Buttress Original, First ascent | Diamond Buttress Original: D. J. Temple & I. F. Howell |
- Top Climbs pp.72-75
- World Mountaineering pp.282-285
North face
North Face Standard Route.
nccs V 5.8+; IV+/5.8/VS 4c; 550m, 10h. 1944-01-01First ascentA. H. Firmin & P. Hicks, 1944. The easiest and most popular rock route on Batian between June and October.
South face
There are two legendary ice climbs on the South Face. 1000 meter long Diamond Couloir (TD) is harder and more famous of the two while Ice Window (AD+/D) is shorter and easier. When in proper condition, South Face route provides the easiest way (PD+/AD) to the Gate of Mists.
Diamond Buttress Original.
Rock,
nccs VI; VI+/VII or A1; 450m, 15h. 1976-01-01First ascentD. J. Temple & I. F. Howell, 1976. Rock climb with difficulty up to VI+/VII or A1.
Diamond Couloir.
Ice,
IV TD; IV/WI4+/5, V-; 1000m/15-18 roped pitches, 9h (Darwin Glacier-Gate of Mists). 1973-01-01First ascentP Snyder & T Mathenge (avoiding headwall by ramp on the left). First ascent through the headwall by Y Chouinard & M Covington in 1975., 1973. Classic. A classic ice route on the South-West Face. In recent years the lower part has failed to form, but there have still been some ascents. However, the start has been much more difficult involving drytooling up to around M7.
Ice Window.
Ice,
AD+/D; IV WI3-4 in the narrow gully; 400m, 6h from Darwin Glacier to Gate of Mists. 1973-01-01First ascentP. Snyder, Y. Laulan & S. LeDain, 1973. Classic. Ice climb on the South Face through Diamond Glacier to Gate of Mists.
McInder's route (South East Face).
Rock,
IV D-/nccs IV 5.7+; III+/IV-, mostly III; 300m/20 pitches), 5h to Nelion, round trip to Batian additional 3h. 1929-01-01First ascentE. Shipton & P. Wyn Harris, 1929. Normal route.
Most of the climbing is I/II, with pitches of III+/IV-. Traverse to Batian via Gate of Mists up to III+ and steep snow.
First Ascent by in 1929.
.
West side
West Ridge.
D-; V-; 350m from Firmin Col, 9h. 1930-01-01First ascentE.E.Shipton, H.W.Tilman, 1930. Rarely climbed route that is reputed to be the finest on Mount Kenya.
Mount Kenya (Lenana Peak)-0.15537.31754985
- World Mountaineering pp.282-285
Mount Meru
Mount Meru (Socialist Pk)-3.24416736.754566
1904-12-01 | Mount Meru, , First ascent | Fritz Jäger, Carl Uhlig, porters |
Mount Elgon
Mount Elgon (Wagagai)1.11833334.5263894321
1911-12-14 | Mount Elgon, , First ascent | Robert Stigler, Richard Storch, Rudolf Kmunke, Ugandan guides and carriers |
Surrounding Western Rift Valley
Rwenzori
Mount Stanley
Ngaliema (Mount Stanley, Margherita Peak)0.38555629.87255109
The highest summit of the Ruwenzori Range in East Africa and the third highest in Africa (after Mounts Kilimanjaro and Kenya). Margherita Peak is the highest peak on Mount Stanley. It rises to 5119m) between Lake Albert (Lake Mobutu Sese Seko) to the north and Lake Edward to the south on the Congo (Kinshasa)–Uganda border.
1906-06-18 | Ngaliema, from Stanley ice plateau via Alexandria, First ascent | from Stanley ice plateau via Alexandria: Joseph Petigax, César Ollier, Joseph Brocherel, Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi |
- World Mountaineering pp.276-279
from Stanley ice plateau via Alexandria. IV PD/AD; 350m. 1906-06-18First ascentJoseph Petigax, César Ollier, Joseph Brocherel, Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, 1906-06-18.
Ngaliema (Mount Stanley, Savoia Peak)0.37388929.8761114977
1906-06-01 | Ngaliema, , First ascent | The Duke of Abruzzi |
1932-01-01 | Ngaliema, West side, First ascent | West side: Belgian team |
- World Mountaineering pp.276-279
Mount Speke
Duwoni (Mount Speke, Vittorio Emanuele Peak)0.39805629.89254890
1906-06-23 | Duwoni, , First ascent | Duke of Abruzzi, J. Petigax, C. Oliver |
1906-06-23 | Duwoni, SW ridge, First ascent | SW ridge: Duke of Abruzzi, J. Petigax, C. Oliver |
West side
SW ridge.
1906-06-23First ascentDuke of Abruzzi, J. Petigax, C. Oliver, 1906-06-23. Normal route. Stuhlman Pass - Speke Glacier - SW ridge.
Mount Baker
Mount Baker (Kiyanja, Edward Pk)0.36111129.8927784844
1906-06-10 | Mount Baker, South ridge, First ascent | South ridge: Duke of Abruzzi, Joseph Petigax, Cesar Ollier & Josef Brocherel |
South side
South ridge. 4th class. 1906-06-10First ascentDuke of Abruzzi, Joseph Petigax, Cesar Ollier & Josef Brocherel, 1906-06-10.
Mount Emin (Umberto Pk)0.42833329.94798
- Umberto (4798m0.42833329.9)
- Kraepelin Peak (4791)
1906-06-28 | Mount Emin, SW ridge, First ascent | SW ridge: Duke of Abruzzi, J. Petigax, L. Petigax, C. Ollier |
SW ridge
SW ridge. 1906-06-28First ascentDuke of Abruzzi, J. Petigax, L. Petigax, C. Ollier, 1906-06-28.
East ridge
East ridge. 5th class.
Mount Gessi (Iolanda Pk)0.42194429.9183334715
- Iolanda (4715m0.42194429.918333)
- Iolanda (4699)
1906-07-17 | Mount Gessi, , First ascent | The Duke of Abruzzi, J. Petgax, L. Petigax, C. Ollier |
Mount Luigi di Savoia (Sella Pk)0.3329.8877784627
1906-01-01 | Mount Luigi di Savoia, , First ascent | J. Brocherel, E. Botta, V. Sella |
Virunga Mountains
Karisimbi-1.50611129.4502784507
1903-01-01 | Karisimbi, , First ascent | Father Barthélémy |
Mikeno-1.46305629.4197224437
1927-07-25 | Mikeno, , First ascent | Fathers Van Hoef and Depluit, Mr Leonard, Mrs Leonard |
Southern Africa
Cape Town
Table Mountain-33.95731418.4031081087
Located close to Cape Town. Extremely popular climbing peak. There are hundreds of routes.
1503-01-01 | Table Mountain, , First ascent | António de Saldanha |
Indian Ocean islands
Mascarene Islands
Réunion
Piton des Neiges-21.09917855.4798473069