Western Alps: Bernese Alps

General info

The Bernese Oberland is located in the north-western part of the Swiss Alps. Apart from a eight 4000m peaks it has many challenging summits above the 3000m mark. Although Finsteraarhorn is the highest peak in the area (4274m), the Bernese Alps are dominated by the famous trilogy of Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger. The area is highly heavily glaciated, in fact, around 25 km long Aletschgletscher, the longest glacier in the Alps, is found in the Bernese Alps. The center of Bernese Alps is Grindelwald (1034m). Jungfraubahn from Lauterbrunnen to Jungfraujoch (3454), the highest railway in the Europe, makes approaches to several climbs much shorter.

Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, view from Männlichen. Source: . Credit: Cable1, Shot in Grindelwald Bern Switzerland , Grindelwald, Switzerland. Licensed under: Public Domain.
Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, view from Männlichen. Source: . Credit: Cable1, Shot in Grindelwald Bern Switzerland , Grindelwald, Switzerland. Licensed under: Public Domain.

Geographic layout

Alpes & Préalpes vaudoises

Peaks located to the west of Bernese Alps (separated from them by Sanetsch pass). Peaks are lower and far less glaciated (some small ones exist). A lot of rock climbing, not so much classic mountaineering or climbs on snow, ice and mixed terrain except for frozen waterfalls during the winter. Highest peak of the area is Les Diablerets. Tour d'Ai is another popular climbing destination.

  • Gummfluh Group located to the north of Les Diablerets and SW of Gstaadt.
  • Dents de Morcles Two-summited group located to the north of Martigny, forming the westernmost peak in Alpes Vaudoises. Grande Dent de Morcles rises to 2969m and Petite Dent de Morcles (2929m) is only few meters lower.
  • Les Diablerets

Bernese Alps

  • Berner Voralpen Lower peaks to the north of main Bernese Alps. The area can be divided into three main sections: Simmentaler Voralpen, Lauterbrunner Voralpen and North-Easternly Voralpen (Emmentaler Alpen), each of which is in turn divided into several groups. The highest peak is Schilthorn (2970m) in Lauterbrunner group. Probably the best known part of Bernese Voralpen among climbers is Gastlosen chain. It is a group of rather low peaks (the highest being Dent de Savigny (2252m), however known for rock climbs on limestone.
  • Sanetsch-Gemmi-Petersgrat Westernmost part of Bernese Alps main crest. The groups furthest to the west are lower and not as steep as those located further east. These peaks are also popular ski mountaineering destinations. Doldenhorn, Balmhorn and Gspaltenhorn in the eastern part of the group have several classic mid-grade and difficult routes, mostly on ice and/or mixed terrain.
    • Wildhorn group Westernmost group on Bernese Alps, totally dominated by Wildhorn. Easy climbs and popular ski mountaineering.
    • Wildstrubel group
    • Balmhorn group
    • Blüemlisalp group
  • Biethschhorn, Breithorn, Aletschhorngruppen Group located in the southern Bernese Alps, to the south of main crest. The group is surrounded by Lötschental on west and NW and bu Aletschgletscher in East and NE. The group consist of main crest forming the southern border of Lötschental and Aletsgletscher. All the main peaks except of Nesthorn and Geisshorn are located on this crest. There are several north-south ridges from the high crest forming numerous valleys accessible from Rhone valley in the south. Three easternmost of those, Beichgletscher, Oberaletsgletscher and Mittelaletscgletscher are very heavily glaciated. The highest peak of the area is Aletschhorn located at the eastern end of the group. Bietschhorn in the western end is the second highest peak. Lötschentaler Breithorn, Nesthorn, Schinhorn and Geisshorn are the other main peaks.
    • Bietschhorn group
    • Lötschentaler group
    • Breithorn group
    • Nesthorn group Located not far from Biethschhorn - Breithorn - Aletschhorn crest on it's south side. Forms a long parallel ridge towards south to the ridge running south of Lötschtaler Breithorn.
    • Aletschhorn group
    • Eggishorn group Ski lifts from Fiesch. Useful as starting point, otherwise not much interest.
  • Tschingelhorn - Finsteraarhorn Central section of Bernese Alps with most of the famous and high peaks. Heavily glaciated area with steep north faces, particularly on Lauterbrunner wall, Jungrfrau, Mönch, Eiger and Fiescherwand.
    • Tschingelhorn group
    • Jungfrau group
    • Fiescherhörner group
    • Finsteraarhorn group
  • "Grindelwald-Grimselpass Eastern part of Bernese Alps. Some of the big peaks in this part are very impressive remote giants (Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn). On the other hand, Wetterhorn and some peaks accessible from Grimselpass are readily accessible. Aside big peaks of Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn and Wetterhorn, lots of rock climbing on lower peaks from Haslital and Grimselpass.
    • Wetterhorn group
    • Schreckhorn group
    • Ewigschneehorn- & Bächlistock group" name="bachlistock_group Large half circle of peaks to the east of Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn and Finsteraarhorn and north of Grimselsee - Unteraargletscher - Lauteraargletscher. Peaks between 3000 and 3500m, none of them very famous alpine destinations. Access from the valleys Reichenbachtal on NW, Urbachtal in NE and Grimselsee - Unteraargletscher - Lauteraargletscher in SE. The most accessible areas, Engelhörner in the north and the peaks in SE close to Grimselpass have rock climbing.
    • "Ritzlihorn group Group of peaks inside "Ewigschneehorn- & Bächlistock, to the east and accessible from Urbachtal (west) and Haslital (east). Bächlital in the southern part with Gross Diamantstock is popular rock climbing destination.
    • Oberaarhorn-Sidelhorn Groups located in SE Bernese Alps, to the east of Fiensteraarhorn and south of Grimselsee - Unteraargletscher - Finsteraargletscher. Access from Fieschergletscher (west), Finsteraargletscher (north) or Upper Rhônetal (south). None of the peaks are very or very famous and most peaks are easy. best known difficult route is Studerhorn north face.
      • Oberaarhorn group
      • Galmihorn group
      • Sidelhorn group Long west-east chain from Oberaarrothorn towards Grimsel pass south of Oberaargletscher. The ridge is known as Aargat. Main peaks are Löffelhorn (3095m) and Grosser Sidelhorn (2879m). Ascent of Sidelhorn does not require climbing.
  • Munter #974, 883

Urner Alps

Strictly speaking no longer part of Berner Alps as Urner Alps are located to the east of Haslital and Grimselpass. In the north the border is formed by Griessental and Isital, due south of Vierwaldstättersee. In the east the group is bordered on Glarus Alps and separated from it by Reuss and Reusstal. In the south the border is formed by Furkapass, Garschen, Urseren and Furkareuss.

Compared to nearby Bernese Alps, the peaks in Urner Alps are lower and known mostly for rock climbing (still, there are several peaks around 3500m). In contrast to Bernese Alps rock is often excellent granite and there are no big glaciers complicating access. Most popular climbing areas are Furkapass, Grimselpass and Göschenertal.

Urner Alps consist of two main areas divided by Gadmertal and Sustenpass:

  • Northern Urner Alps By far the best known peak of northern Urner Alps is Titlis, located to the north of Sustenpass. Generally northern Urner Alps are less known among the climbers than the southern part. The most imposing feature of northern Urner Alps is Wendenstock group, a huge wall with loads of difficult rock routes. Technically it is a sport climbing venue, but bolts tend to be few and far between. The wall does not have much of anything below upper grade 6 and climbing is usually very much run out.
  • Southern Urner Alps
    • Tieralplistock-Gelmerhörner chain Westernmost north south chain of southern Uri Alps. West side is readily accessible from the road Haslital - Grimselpass - Rhônetal either directly or from the side valleys. Gelmerhörner ids the most important climbing venue.
    • Dammastock chain Next nort-south chain to the east of Tieralplistock-Gelmerhörner chain. Dammastock is the highest peak in Uner Alps. Besides Dammastock, peaks to the south of it and readily accessible from Furkapass are very important climbing objectives. Galenstock, Gross and Chly Bielenhorn sand Gross and Klein Furkahorn each has classic routes.
    • Sustenhorn- und Bergseeschijen chain North-south chain immediately to the south of Sustenpass. The ridge extends to the northern bank of Göscheneralpsee and divides the northern side of Göschenertal into Chelenalptal (west) and Voralptal (east).
    • Fleckistock-Salbitschijen chain Northeastern groups of southern Uri Alps. Located to the south of Sustenpass group and east of Sustenhorn group. The highest peak of the chain is Fleckistock located in the middle of the chain. However, by far the best known climbs in the group are those on Salbitschijen, well accessible from Salbit hut in Göschenertal.
    • Gletschhorn-Schöllenen chain Southern west-east chain rising to the east of Galenstock, north of Furkapass - Andermatt road and south of Göschenertal. The highest point of the chain is Gletschhorn, not far from where the chain joins north-south chain between Dammastock and Galenstock. The peaks along the ridge get lower towards East. Schöllenen is a pass between Andermatt in the south and Göschenen in the north. Most climbing is to be found of the south side of the ridge above Furkapass and road to Andermatt. Albert Heim hütte is the most convenient point of access for most climbs, most easterly are more convenient from the road by Real.

Logistics

Accommodation

Col du Pillon
  • Sex Rouge2971Ski lift from Col du Pillon.
Simmental
  • Wildhornhütte46.3791677.3880562303 2002
Kandertal
  • Balmhorn hut (Balmhornhütte)46.4513897.6894441956
  • Hotel Schwarenbach46.4319447.6252060
  • Fründen hut46.48357.741972562
  • Doldenhorn hut46.4868917.6974161915
  • Mutthornhütte46.4861117.832901
  • Blümisalphütte46.501757.7716672834
  • Lämmerenhütte46.4002787.5744442502
Kiental
  • Blümisalphütte46.501757.7716672834
Lauterbrunnertal
  • Schmadrihütte (Schmadri hut)46.4991677.8919442262
  • Rottalhütte46.5261117.9447222755
Lütschental
  • Eismeer46.5722228.0105563159
  • Jungfraujoch46.54757.9836113454
  • Mönchsjochhütte (Mönchjochs hut)46.5547228.0055563627
  • Mitteleggi hut46.5833338.02253355
  • Guggi Hut46.565317.968932791
  • Gleckstein hut46.6258.0966672317
  • Schreckhorn hut46.5816678.0988892529
  • Aarbiwak46.5555568.1522222731
  • Silberhorn hut46.5488897.9336112663
Haslital
  • Finsteraarhorn hut46.5219448.1144443048
  • Lauteraarhütte (Lauteraarhorn hut)46.578.2222222393
Rhône valley
  • Lämmerenhütte46.4002787.5744442502
  • Baltshiederklause46.3957.8897222783
  • Belalp hotel46.3808337.9913892130
Lötschental
  • Bietchhornhütte46.3957.8172222565
  • Hollandia hut (Hollandiahütte, Lötschen hut)46.4757.9633333240
  • hotel Fafleralp46.4341677.8616671766
Aletschgletcher
  • Oberaletschhütte (Oberaletsch hut)46.4247227.9738892640
  • Mittelaletschbiwak46.4658.0238893013
Fieschertal
  • Konkordia hut (Konkordiahütte)46.5004728.053252850
Fiestertal
  • Oberaarjoch hut46.5261118.1730563256
Furka pass
  • Sidelenhütte46.59758.4269442708
  • Hotel BelvédèreLocated by the road a bit below Furka pass on Rhônetal side, at the entrance to Rhônegletscher.
Göschenertal
  • Salbithütte46.6763898.5516672105
  • Bergseehütte46.65758.4852370
  • Voralphütte46.6905568.4877782126
  • Dammahütte46.6447228.4577782438
  • Kehlenhütte46.6716678.442350
Voralp
  • Horefelli1786
  • Salbitschijen biwak2400
  • Voralphütte46.6905568.4877782126

Climbing info

About climbing in the area

Bernese Alps is a remote area by European Alps standards. Approaches are often long and total ascents between 1500 and 2000m from the hut to summit are not rare.

The area offers a wealth of good climbs, in particular for those interested in traditional alpine mountaineering on ice and mixed routes. Even the easier routes, require some alpine experience, as many of the routes traverse long and complex glacial terrain. Popular peaks include Jungfrau, Eiger, Mönch and Finsteraarhorn, all of them having several routes with normal routes graded between PD and AD. Middle grade classics include Mitteleggi Ridge of Eiger and Nollen on Mönch. There's host of other fine routes graded around AD and D. Schreckhorn, reputably the most difficult 4000m peak in Bernese Alps, features good rock unlike most other big mountains of the range, and has several high quality routes predominantly on good rock.

Bernese Alps has the finest concentration of major ice and mixed routes in the Alps. Although there are several higher peaks in the Bernese Oberland, no other climb is nearly as famous as the Eigerwand, the north face of Eiger. With it's 1800 height and notoriously bad weather, it is probably the most legendary climb of the Europe. It's first ascent in 1938 marked a major milestone in alpine climbing. Even today, it is a serious undertaking.

Other classics among the big routes include Lauper routes on Jungfrau, Eiger and Mönch. Lauterbrunner Wall, consisting of north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebneflüh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Lauterbrunner Breithorn, has host of routes, some of these objectively serious. Particularly Grosshorn is a huge climb. Fiescherwand offers similar type on climbs.

Even though the rock quality on big mountains is generally not very good, there is also fine rock climbing in the area. Best known areas for rock climbing are Grimsell Pass, Leysin, Engelhorner group, Salbitschijen and Argentine. Bernese Oberland also has plenty of high quality ice climbing in the frozen waterfalls and several of the hardest new-style mixed climbs are located in the area. Central for waterfall ice and mixed climbing is Kandersteg.

Rescue

Switzerland has a good rescue system. It does come with considerable cost though, be sure to have valid insurance.

Alpine distress signal
6 x within a minute with regular intervals, give some sort of visual or acoustic signal. Then pause for a minute and repeat the signal until you get an answer. To answer: 3 x within a minute - one minute pause.
Telephone
  • Switzerland +41
Rescue services
  • REGA (pref)+41 1 3831111
  • Police (pref)+41117
  • Schweizerische Rettungsflugwacht, Zürich (pref)+41 1 383 1111
  • Alarmzentrale für den Kanton Wallis (pref)+41 27 22 5656

Grading

Several grading systems are used depending on the type of climbing:

Alpine climbs
G-grade is the most common system used to grade alpine climbs. Several climbs have been graded using international French adjectival system as well.
Rock climbs
For alpine rock routes UIAA grade is used. Standard aid climbing grade is used when appropriate.
Ice & mixed
For moderate and middle grade climbs, most common way is to express the steepness either as maximum or average angle of the slope. For the difficult routes, WI grading is used, usually as two-part variation (including commitment grade). For mixed stuff, some modern routes sometimes use M grades for mixed sections, which certainly tells a lot more about the actual demands met by a climber rather than more commonly used normal rock grade. British guidebooks sometimes use Scottish winter grade.

Guidebooks and maps

Authoritative guide to the area is Swiss Alpine Club's Clubführer, available in six volumes both in German and French. Best maps are Swiss Landeskarte maps available in 1:25 000.

  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1249 Finsteraarhorn1:25 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1250 Ulrichen1:25 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1269 Aletschgletscher1:25 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1229 Grindelwald1:25 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 264 Jungfrau1:50 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 266 Nufenenpass1:50 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 5004 Berner Oberland1:50 000
  • Berner Oberland
  • Remy, Claude & Remy, Yves: Alpes Et Préalpes Vaudoises - Gummfluh, Les Diablerets Et Dents De Morcles. Isbn: 9783859022911. SAC-Verlag, 2011.
  • Gerber, Martin: Alpinführer/Clubführer Berner Voralpen - Von Gstaad bis Meiringen, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859021655. SAC-Verlag, 1997.
  • Gerber, Martin: Kletterfuhrer Berner Voralpen, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859021747. SAC-Verlag, 1998.
  • Mosimann, Ueli: Wildhorn, Wildstrubel, Blüemlisalp - Vom Sanetsch Zum Petersgrat (BE 1/2), 1. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783859023208. SAC-Verlag, 2011.
  • Blum, Christoph; Oberli, Alfred & Senn, Ruedi: Berner Alpen, Bd.3 - Bietschhorngruppe, Breithorngruppe, Nesthorngruppe, Schinhorngruppe, Aletschhorngruppe, Eggishorngruppe, 6. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783859021334. SAC-Verlag, 1994.
  • Hausmann, Karl: Alpine Touren Jungfrau-Region, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859023086. SAC-Verlag, 2010.
  • Mosimann, Ueli: Berner Alpen 5 - Von Grindelwald zur Grimsel, 6. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783859021556. SAC Verlag, 1996.
  • Hunziker, M.; Brandt, M. & Brenna, G.: Gotthard - von der Furka bis zum Lukmanier. Isbn: 9783859021495. SAC-Verlag, 2005.
  • Fullin, Toni & Banholzer, Andi: Urner Alpen 2 - Göscheneralp - Furka - Grimsel. Isbn: 9783859022225. SAC-Verlag, 2003.
  • Fullin, Toni & Banholzer, Andy: Urner Alpen 3 - Vom Susten zum Urirotstock, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859021723. SAC-Verlag, 1999.
  • Mosimann, Ueli: SAC Hochtouren Berner Alpen, 2., Überarbeitete Auflage. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783859022546. SAC-Verlag, 2006.
  • Collomb, Robin G.: Bernese Alps East - Mönch, Eiger, Flescher, Finsteraar, Schreck, Lauteraar, Wetterhörner, Obernaar, Grimsel. Isbn: 0900523271. Alpine Club, 1979.
  • Swindin, Les: Bernese Oberland (Alpine Club Guides), 3rd edition. Isbn: 0900523646. Alpine Club, 2003.
  • Munter, Werner & Munter, Margrit: Berner Alpen - Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Kletterer. Vom Sanetschpaß zur Grimsel., 10 überarbeitete Auflage edition. Isbn: 3-7633-2415-1. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1995.
  • Pusch, Wolfgang; Schmitt, Edwin; Senf, Thomas & Waeber, Michael: Hochtouren Westalpen - Band 1 - 86 Fels- und Eistouren zwischen Tödi und Grand Combin. Isbn: 9783763330287. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2007.
  • Wullschleger, Stefan & Silbernagel, Daniel: Berner Alpen, Hochtouren Topoführer - 70 Klassische Hochtouren in Fels Und Eis Zwischen Les Diablerets Und Grimsel. Isbn: 9783952400906. Topo.Verlag, 2012.
  • Mürner, Andreas; Garett, James & Meier, Rudolf: Schweiz Plaisir WEST, 1., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087399. Filidor, 2012.
  • Känel, Sandro Von; Garrett, James & Meier, Rudolf: Schweiz Plaisir SELECTION, 1., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087405. Filidor, 2012.
  • Känel, Sandro Von: Interlaken Vertical. Isbn: 9783906087467. Filidor, 2013.
  • Känel, Sandro Von; Kaenel, Sandro Von & Garrett, James: Schweiz Extrem West, 1., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087344. Filidor, 2010.
  • Känel, Sandro Von: Schweiz Extrem OST. Isbn: 9783906087436. Filidor, 2013.
  • Känel, Jürg von; Ruedi Meier; Fuller, Lisa & Chlaus Lötscher: Schweiz Plaisir ALPIN, 2., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087313. Filidor, 2008.
  • Känel, Jürg von: Salbit Erleben!. Isbn: 9783906087214. Filidor, 2004.
  • Widmaer, Johanna: Best of - Genuss Bd. 3 - Schweiz. Alpine Genussklettereien Von 3 Bis 6., 2. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783936740387. Panico Alpinverlag, 2011.
  • Blum, Christoph & Silbernagel, Daniel: Best of Keepwild!climbs. Isbn: 9783936740332. Panico Alpinverlag, 2006.
  • Sertori, Mario: Alpine Ice - The 600 Best Ice Falls In The Alps. Isbn: 9788887890839. Versant Sud, 2009.
  • Odermatt, Urs: Hot Ice - Eisklettern In Der Schwiez. Isbn: 978-3-033-00635-5. Panico Alpinverlag, 2005.
  • Odermatt, Urs: Hot Ice, Cold Rock - Mixedklettern & Drytooling In Der Schweiz. Isbn: 978-3-033-00330-8. Panico Alpinverlag, 2004.

Valleys

Saanen

NW corner of the group is formed by the road from Aigle in Rhonetal via Château-d'Oex - Saanen (Gstaad) - Simmental - Spiez on the southern shore of Thunersee. Another road from Forent de Mimont to Gstaadt via Les Diablerets 'inside' the main road. Furthermore, one large side valley from Gstaadt.

Rock climbing in Sanetsch pass area is probably the most interesting climbing attraction of the area. Tour d'Ai and les Diablerets has several via ferratas as well.

Col du Pillon

  • Plaisir West 2006 #19, #22-25
  • Best of Genuss 3 C1-2
  • Hot Ice #73
  • Plaisir Selection #19
  • Leysin. At Mountain Project.
  • Les Diablerets. Listed as Col du Pillon in Plaisir West. Mostly multi-pitch routes of 3 to 10 pitches in 2 sectors. Grade range 5c to 6c. Other routes on the wall are indicated in the Plaisir guidebook, usually meaning harder routes will be found in the specialised guidebooks. Stays wet for a long term after rain. At UKC Climbing.

Lauenental

Valley from Gstaadt towards SE leading to north side of Wildhorn. To the NW, Gastlosen chain has plenty of rock climbs.

  • Plaisir West 2006 #34-38
  • Best of Genuss 3 B
  • Hot Ice #72
  • Plaisir Selection #22
  • Gastlosen. A crinkly limestone ridge with bolted single and multipitch routes on both sides and an excellent ridge climb. At UKC Climbing.

Obersimmental

Upper part of Simmental with city of Lenk near the end of the valley. Not too far from Adelboden (Entschligental) but no direct connection between the two except fro walk though high mountain pass. NW side of Wildstrubel.

Simmental

SW of Spiez.

  • Plaisir West 2006 #26
  • Hot Ice #71

Kander/Kien/Lötschen regions

Valley system SW of Spiez on the southern shore of Thunersee. The main valley contains Reichenbach in Kandertal, Frutigen and Adelboden at the end of the valley. There are two large side valley towards SE, Kienertal from Reichenbach in Kandertal and Kandertal from Frutigen.

Entschligental

Weöö known skiing resort Adelboden is the center of the valley. Guring the winter the valley has ice climbing, despite it not being as imposing or famous as neighboring Kandertal. Moderate Lurking Fear (III WI3+, 120m) is a classic.

  • Hot Ice #69-70
  • Sertori Switzerland #3

Kandertal

Centrally located in the valley is small city of Kandersteg (1176m). Kandersteg is logistically very important, as it is a station on Lötschberg train which crosses the Berber Alps chain and proving direct access to Brig in Rhonetal.

Kandersteg area is world-famous among ice climbers as one of the absolute hot spots. There is a great concentration of very difficult ice and mixed routes on the steep faces of Breitwanflüe and Ueschinen. Probably the most famous pure ice routes are Crack Baby (IV WI6, 340m) and Beta Block Super (V WI7 X, 285m).

Trekking connection through Gemmipass to Leukerbad accessible from the south side of the group.

Most important mountains accessible from Kandersteg are those on Balmgorngrouppe (NW and NE sides the massif), Doldenhorn and Blüemlisalp.

  • Plaisir West 2006 #44-47
  • Plaisir Selection #23
  • Hot Ice #59-67
  • Sertori Switzerland #2
  • Best of Genuss 3 #I14

Kiental

Gspaltenhorn NW side is the dominating peak from the valley. Some climbs on Blüemisalp-group are accessible from the valley as well as from Kandertal. It is also possible to gain Kanderfirn from the valley to gain north side climbs on Tschingelhorn.

Interlaken region

Jungfrau area is mainly accessed from Interlaken, either through Lütschental (Grindelwald (1034), Wengen) or Lauterbrunnen (795m, Stechelberg (910m), Gimmelwald (1303m)). Many of the climbs make use of Jungfraujochbahn, that leads from Lauterbrunnen via Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch (3454). It is possible to get to Jungfraujoch also from Lütschental by taking Wengeralpbahn to Kleine Scheidegg. This makes many climbs located quite a distance away (like Finsteraarhorn and Aletschhorn) still practical from this side, keeping in mind that alternative access is long as well.

Obvious attraction of the area are the big three Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger. Also Wetterhorn is very prominent from Grindelwald, perhaps even more so than Eiger north face. For connoisseurs of hard mixed climbs, Lauterbrunner wall and Fiescherwand both have lot of big routes on mixed terrain.

  • Plaisir West 2006 #48-50
  • Hot Ice #58

Lauterbrunnertal

  • Jungfrau group
  • Blümisalp group

Lütschental

Grindelwald (1034m) is the most famous base for climbing in Bernese Alps. Due to Jungfraubahn can be used to access most climbs on 4000m peaks and many other popular climbing destinations.

  • Best of Keepwild #8
  • Plaisir West 2012 #47-48
  • Best of Genuss 3 #I13
  • Plaisir Selection #24
  • Wetterhorn group
  • Schreckhorn group
  • Finsteraarhorn group
  • Fiescherhorn group
  • Jungfrau group

Haslital-Grimsel pass

Haslital

The valley towards SE from the eastern end on Grienzersee (Brienz). The valley forms NE border of Bernese Alps separating it from Urner Alps located to the east of the valley.

The road through the valley forms eastern north south connection. From there the road leads via Meiringer and Innertkirchen to Grimselpass from where the road descents to Rhone valley. From the descent, another road climbs towards NE to Furkapass. Two relatively short side valleys towards SW from Meiringer and Innertkirchen and a major side valley towards East from Innertkirchen to Sustenpass.

The valley is mostly known rock climbs on Engelhörner, Gelmerhörner, Bächlital and Grimselpass areas as well as Sustenpass in Gadmertal.

  • Plaisir West 2006 #51-62, #63-65
  • Best of Keepwild #9
  • Plaisir Selection #25, 27-32
  • Plaisir West 2012 #49-62
  • Hot Ice #55-57
  • Best of Genuss 3 #H27-29

Reichenbachtal

Northern of SW side valleys from Meiringer. Access to NW side of Engelhörner.

  • Plaisir Selection #25
  • Best of Genuss 3 #I10-12

Grübenkessel

Southern of SW side valleys from Innertkirchen. Access to SE side of Engelhörner, Bärglistock, Ewigschneehorn, Bächlistock, Gross Diamanstock and Ritzlistock. Grëbenhütte is located in the valley serving as the primary base for accessing the climbs. The valley is mostly trad climbing destination. The following are considered to be the classics of the valley:

  • Kleiner DiamantstockNordgrat
  • Grosser DiamantstockOstgrat
  • HiendertelltihornOstgrat
  • GolegghornÜberschreitung
  • SteinlauihornSüdostgrat
  • Ritzlihorn3282mEast ridgeÄrlengrätliTD-; V
  • Best of Keepwild #9
  • Gebietsführer Gruebenkessel

Gelmertal

Eastern side valley of Haslital, towards NE from Handegg. Gelmerhütte is the base in the valley. Rock climbing on Gelmerhörner are the most famous climbs from the valley, particularly on traverse Chlys Gelmerhorn - Grosses Gelmerhorn. The valley also provides access to Gwächtenhorn, Diechternhorn and Tieralplistock located on the long north-south chain of Gelmerhörner-Tieralplistock.

  • Plaisir Selection #39
  • Gelmerhörner. Multi-pitch and single pitch "Plaisir" routes starting at altitude 1960m to 2600m and in the grade range 4a-6a. Most routes realistically accessed from a stay at the Gelmerhütte, some routes before the hut do-able in a day from the road. At UKC Climbing.

Bächlital

Relatively short western side valley of Haslital between Handegg and Grimselpass. The valley has Bächlitalhütte and several rock climbs, most famous of which being Gross Diamanstock.

  • Best of Genuss 3 #I7-9
  • Plaisir Selection #30-31
  • Bächlital. 5 Sectors near the Bächlital-Hütte with single pitch and mostly multipitch sport routes covering mainly the grades 4a to 6a+. The Diamantstock is also approached from the hut. At UKC Climbing.

Unteraargletscher

The largest and longest valley system towards west from Haslital, just north of Grimselpass. The lower part of the valley contains Grimselsee, the upper valley consists of Unteraargletscher and still further up Lauteraargletscher (north) and Finsteraargletscher (south). The valley provides access to east sides of Schreckhorn and Lauteraarhorn as well as NE side of Finsteraarhorn.

  • Best of Genuss 3 #H1-6
  • Plaisir Selection #32

Rhône valley

Rhône valley

The very natural southern border of the group is very big Rhone valley running all the way from Lac Leman to Simplonpass. There are some shorter side valleys towards north, but only very few with the roads. The biggest are the one north from Leuk with Leukerbad and particularly Lötschental north from Gampel. The latter is located opposite Kandersteg and is used to access Lötschberg train connection.

Rhone valley is is very large with several cities including Montreaux, Aigle, Martigny, Sion, Visp, Brig and Fiesch before the valley reaches it's end below Simplon and Furka passes, the former on the north and the latter on the east side of the upper valley.

  • Plaisir West 2006 #14-21, #27 #31, #33
  • Best of Keepwild #4-6, #7
  • Best of Genuss 3 #D3-9
  • Switzerland's Rhone Valley (from Lake Geneva to Martigny). Geneva airport sees a constant stream of climbers arriving from all over the world, with the majority heading straight for Chamonix or the alpine ranges of Valais. Very few stop to sample the little known crags around the Rhone valley in Switzerland, between Lake Geneva and Martigny. The climbing in the Rhone valley is worth knowing about for a couple of reasons. By Ian M at UKC Climbing on 2012-03.

Sanetsch

Important col between Les Diablerets (Alpes & Prealpes Vaudoises) in the west and Wildhorn-group in the east. Road from Sion in Rhonetal. No road connection to north side of the group albeit Gsteig along the road from Les Diablerest via Col Pillon and Gsteig to Gstaadt is close enough to make ther pass accessible for walkers also from the north side. Lot of rock climbing.

  • Plaisir West 2006 #26
  • Best of Genuss 3 D5
  • Plaisir Selection #20
  • Sanetsch. At Mountain Project.
  • Sanetsch. Perfect, rough and steep limestone with many gouttes d'eau. Mostly between 4-10 pitches long. Grades starting at around 6a, up to 7c. Also single pitch sectors with easier routes, 4a to 5c+. At UKC Climbing.

Lötchental

Lötschental north from Gampel and opposite Kandersteg and is used to access Lötschberg train connection. The longest road accessible side valley from Rhône valley into Bernese Alps. South side climbs on Tschingelhorner, Lauterbrunner Breithorn, Grosshorn and Mittaghorn, as well as north sides of Schinhorn, Lötschentaler Breithorn and Bietschhorn are accessible from the valley.

Aletschgletcher

The largest glacier system in the Alps with numerous side arms. The upper reaches of the glacier system gives access th many of the highest and most famous peaks of Berner Alps, namely, Mittaghorn, Äbeni Flue, Gletscherhorn, Jungrau, Mönch, Fiescherhorner and Gross Grünhorn. Most climbers approach the upper valleys from Jungfraujoch train station from where the approach is far shorter. Further south, Aletschhorn in the west and Grosses Wannenhorn form borders of the valley before it widens at glacier junction known as Konkordia. Alettschhorn is the highest and most famous climb from the lower valley.

Area around Overaletschhütte has rock climbs on southern side branches, particularly on Weisshorn-Torberh and Fusshörner chains.

Fieschertal

Fiesch (1049m), located 25km NE of Brig is the most important base for climbs on Central Bernese Alps from south. It can be used to access Aletschgletcher and Fieschertal/Fieschergletscher.

Grosses Wannenhorn, Gross Grünhorn, Fiesgerhörner, Finsteraarhorn, Oberaarrothorn

  • Plaisir West 2006 #32

Rhonegletscher

Access into SW corner of Urner Alps. Between Gelmerhörner-Tieralps chain in the west and Dammastock-Galestock in the east.

Brünigpass - Vierwaldstättersee

West and northern borders of northern borders of Urner Alps. Not particularly well-known alpine climbing from the valley.

  • Best of Genuss 3 E
  • Plaisir Selection #39,40

Engelberger Tal

Large north-south valley reaching into the center of northern Urner Alps from Vierwaldstättersee. Engelberg at the end of the valley is the center in the valley. By far the most famous peak from Engelberger Tal is Titlis. Getting to the top is easy with a cable car, but the peaks has several rock climbing routes as well, including some very difficult ones. During the winter the valley has quite a bit of ice climbing on frozen waterfalls. Furthermore, Graustock Nordwand ha big ice/mixed routes.

  • Plaisir Ost 2001 #27-34, 39
  • Hot Ice #49-53
  • Sertori Switzeland #3

Gadmertal/Sustenpass

Large valley to east of Innertkirchen rising to Sustenpass between Titlis in the north and Sustenhorn in the south. Plenty of rock climbing in Sustenpass area.

  • Plaisir Ost 2001 #1-7
  • Best of Keepwild #11
  • Hot Ice #46
  • Plaisir Selection #26
  • Best of Genuss 3 #H1-8

Reuss

North-south valley from Altdorf at the southern end of Vierwaldstättersee, Wassen, Göschenen and Andermatt. The valley forms natural border between Urner Alps in the west and Glarus Alps in the east.

Göschenertal

Furka pass leads to Andermatt in Göschenertal. It is very popular for alpine rock, as the area has excellent rock and lower altitude means warmer temperatures and much easier approaches due to lack of big glaciers. Particularly Salbitschijen is very popular destination. There are several huts in the valley, of which Salbithütte and Bergseehütte are of greatest interest as means to access most popular climbing objectives.

  • Plaisir Ost 2001 #21-26
  • Best of Genuss 3 H9-15
  • Plaisir Selection #37-38
  • Hot Ice #47

Furka pass

  • Plaisir Ost 2001 #9-19
  • Best of Keepwild #12
  • Best of Genuss 3 H16-26
  • Plaisir Selection #33-36
  • Furka Pass. The Furka pass provides a connection between central Switzerland on its east side and the Valais to the west. The road itself is paved, and is generally open to traffic from the early/mid summer until late autumn, depending on weather conditions. On the east side of the pass, there are numerous superb venues for mountaineering activities. At Mountain Project.
  • Furka. At UKC Climbing.
  • Schoellenen. Nice straightforward multipitch sport routes all with abseil descents. Busy road at the bottom spoils it a bit, although it does mean quick access! At UKC Climbing.

Mountains

Bernese Alps

Catena Finsteraarhorn-Oberaarhorn-Galmihorn

Gruppo Galmihorn-Sidelhorn

Gruppo del Sidelhorn
Sidelhorn (Siedelhorn)46.552528.312652764
Located immediately to the west of Grimselpass.
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
T2.
Grosses Sidelhorn46.540928.285472879
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Uelistock (Üelistock)46.535028.269882890
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Geschinerstock46.529438.258022856
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Gruppo del Galminhorn
Oberaarrothorn
Löffelhorn46.52698.237193095
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
PD/T5.
Blatthörner46.526418.227653040
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Roosehörner46.524748.20953131
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Oberaarrothorn46.520338.18083477
  • Munter 1995 #1460
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
G3.
Nollen46.522898.178463409
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Oberaarotjoch46.52168.179613290
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Wasenhorn
Oberlicke (Bieligerlicke)46.502488.173993141
  • Munter 1995 #1395
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
G2-3.
Wasenhorn (Gomser Wasenhorn)46.49805555555568.165833333333333447
Located to the east of Fieshergletscher, opposite to Grosses Wannenhorn.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Munter 1995 #1475
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
PD/T6-.
Setzehorn46.475978.160693061
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
T5-.
Täschehorn46.472768.161233008
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Galmihorn
Galmilicke46.516078.188793293
  • Munter 1995 #1395
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
G1.
Galmihorn (Vorderes Galmihorn)46.50666666666678.1853505
  • Galmihorn (Vorderes Galmihorn) (3505m46.50666666666678.185)
  • Hinteres Galmihorn (3466m46.513738.1897)
Located in the eastern part of Bernese Alps abobe Goms. Mostly visited by skis.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Hochtouren Berner Alpen 2013
  • Munter 1995 #1466
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
PD/G2.
Hinteres Galmihorn46.513738.18973466
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Bächlilicke46.51098.185073378
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Unnerlicke46.501118.187783127
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Gälmjinihörner46.499738.189323236
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Ritzihorn46.487878.196922893
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Firehorn
Firehornlicke46.50888.197613067
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Firehorn46.506298.203613182
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Heji Zwächte46.504758.210853086
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto
Gross Chastelhorn46.496558.220042842
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1251 - Val Bedretto

Gruppo del Finsteraarhorn-Oberaarhorn

Gruppo dell'Oberaarhorn
Oberaarhorn
Oberaarhorn46.5313898.1744443629
Located near Finsteraarhorn. Popular panorama peak. Easy ascents along South and West ridges from Oberaarjochhütte.
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #27
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #28
  • Munter 1995 #1430
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
South ridge
South ridge. F/G1; 1,5h.
  • Westalpen I #27
  • Munter #1431
Traverse Studerhorn-Oberaarhorn. G3; 6-7h.
  • Munter #1421, #1425, #1432
Unders Studerjoch46.531278.161073385
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Oberaarjoch46.525718.174153208
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #507
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Grunerhorn46.541358.181333431
  • Munter 1995 #1437
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
G2.
Altmann46.531918.164183462
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Scheuchzerhorn
Scheuchzerhorn46.543978.190453456
  • Munter 1995 #1437
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
PD/G1-2.
Escherhorn46.557598.196883078
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Hintere Tierberg
Hintere Tierberg46.547238.213123205
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Vordere Tierberg46.549978.228673111
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Hintere Zinggenstock46.552788.240663040
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
T5.
Vordere Zinggenstock46.554248.257632921
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
PD+/T6.
Zinggenlicken46.55128.238562984
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
Scheuchzerjoch46.545368.202053072
  • Munter 1995 #1395
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 265 - Nufenenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1250 - Ulrichen
G2.
Gruppo del Finsteraarhorn
Agazzihorn
P.374546.548648.104983745
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Agazzihorn46.5465568.1144173946
Located NW of Finsteraarhorn. Easy from SE side (Agazzijoch). Very difficult north face.
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #46A
  • Munter 1995 #1345
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #501
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
North face
North face. ED; 80°, V; 10-12h.
  • SAC Jungfrau #501.4
PD/G2-3.
Agazzijoch46.543998.117163737
  • Munter 1995 #1253
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #502
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G2.
Finsteraarjoch46.550238.121823284
  • Munter 1995 #1248
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2-3.
Finsteraarhorn
Finsteraarhorn46.53722222222228.126111111111114274
  • Finsteraarhorn (4274m46.53722222222228.12611111111111)
  • P.4167 (Finsteraarhorn SÖ) (4167m46.535368.12724)
  • P.3883 (3rd tower) (3883m46.531858.13054)
  • P.3787 (3787m46.530058.13349)
  • P.3694 (3694m46.528478.13545)
  • P.3604 (3604m46.524718.13950)
  • P.3979 (3979m46.541848.12061)
  • Hugisattel (4088m46.539838.12331)
The highest mountain in the Bernese Alps but less famous than nearby Junfrau, Mönch and Eiger. Moderate standard Route via SW Face and NW Ridge was found in 1829. Parade side of the peak is its long SE ridge with multiple towers. It can be joined at various points. First ascent of ENE Spur was one of the most difficult routes climbed anywhere prior to World War I.
1812-08-16
Finsteraarhorn, ,
First ascent		Arnold Abbühl, Joseph Bortis, Alois Volker
1812-08-16
Finsteraarhorn, SE Ridge,
First ascent		SE Ridge: Alois Volker, Joseph Bortis & Arnold Abbühl. They belonged to Rudolf Meyer's team and used SE Ridge. Finsteraarhorn was the third 4000er in the Alps after Mont Blanc and Jungfrau.
1829-08-10
Finsteraarhorn, SW Face and NW Ridge,
First ascent		SW Face and NW Ridge: Jakob Leuthold & Johann Withren
1904-07-08
Finsteraarhorn, ENE Spur,
First ascent		ENE Spur: Fritz Amatter & Gustav Hasler
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #46
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #47
  • Alpine Touren Jungfrau-Region 2010 #503
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #23
  • Munter 1995 #1353
  • Finsteraarhorn - Die einsame Spitze 1997
  • Moran 2007 #4
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
NE Face
ENE Spur (Ostsporn). ED/G9; IV+/V; 850m, 8-10h. 1904-07-08First ascentFritz Amatter & Gustav Hasler, 1904-07-08.
Elegant ridge route on good gneiss.
  • Munter #1358
  • SAC Jungfrau #503.6
SE Ridge
Very long ridge that can be joined at various points. 2,5km from Gemslicke (3335m). The ridge has several towers: P3604, I Turm (3694m), II Turm (3787m), III Turm (3883m) and SE Vorgipfel (4167m). It is possible to gain the ridge at several points, probably the best option is at col 3527 between P3604 and I Tower.
SE Ridge integral. D/G6-7; IV; 14-15h from Oberaarhütte.
  • Munter #1357c
  • Moran 4d
  • SAC Jungfrau #503.10
SE Ridge. AD+; III, 50°; 1100m, 10-12h from the hut. 1812-08-16First ascentAlois Volker, Joseph Bortis & Arnold Abbühl. They belonged to Rudolf Meyer's team and used SE Ridge. Finsteraarhorn was the third 4000er in the Alps after Mont Blanc and Jungfrau., 1812-08-16.
Classic ridge climb. Joins the ridge by 2nd tower.
  • Munter #1357
  • Moran 4c
Südroute (Upper SE ridge). AD+; 1250m, 8-9h.
Joins SE ridge close to 3rd tower (3885m).
  • Munter #1357b
  • Moran 4d
West side
SW Face and NW Ridge. II AD-/G3-4/Rus 2A; II and I, 35°; 1250m, 4-5h in ascent, 2-2,5h in descent. 1829-08-10First ascentJakob Leuthold & Johann Withren, 1829-08-10.
Normal route. From Finsteraarhornhütte via SW Face and NW Ridge.
  • Munter #1354
  • Moran 4a
  • Westalpen I #23
  • SAC Jungfrau #503.1
NW ridge
NW ridge (Agazzigrat). AD; 1680m, 3-4h from Agazzijoch.
  • Moran 4b
  • SAC Jungfrau #5.03-2
P.4167 (Finsteraarhorn SÖ)46.535368.127244167
  • Alpine Touren Jungfrau-Region 2010 #503.9
  • Alpine Touren Jungfrau-Region 2010 #503.10
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
D.
P.3883 (3rd tower)46.531858.130543883
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.378746.530058.133493787
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.369446.528478.135453694
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.360446.524718.139503604
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.397946.541848.120613979
  • Alpine Touren Jungfrau-Region 2010 #503.2
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD.
Col 365146.548718.096653651
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Hugisattel46.539838.123314088
  • Alpine Touren Jungfrau-Region 2010 #503.2
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD.
Gemschlicke46.520578.143533335
Located between Finsteraarrothorn and SE ridge of Finsteraarhorn.
1828-07-12
Gemschlicke, ,
First ascent		Rudolf Meyer
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #504
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Finsteraarrothorn46.517788.148413530
  • Munter 1995 #1363
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #505
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G2-3.
Studerhorn
Studerhorn46.5329258.1476783638
Attractive and popular north face. Other routes on NE ridge, East ridge and south ridge are non-technical. NE ridge serves as the easiest means to get from Aarbiwak to Oberaarjoch hut.
1940-08-01
Studerhorn, ,
First ascent		P. Bonnant, L. Boulaz
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #74
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #74A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #75A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #75
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #28
  • Munter 1995 #1420
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2-3.
P.345646.531588.154273456
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Obers Studerjoch46.535118.138463399
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #506
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
F.

Catena Jungfrau-Fiescherhorn

Gruppo Fiescherhorn-Grünhorn

Pfaffestecki
Ochsejoch46.569328.080573054
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #413
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Pfaffestecki46.569818.08113114
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #414
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD-.
Obere Buggel46.575898.08482831
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Fiescherhörner
Walcherhorn
Walcherhorn46.568.0353692
Located on NW ridge of Gross Fiesherhorn (Walchergrat). Short and easy from Mönchjoch via Ewigschneefäld. Short mid-grade climbs on NW and West faces and West ridge. Regularly traversed as part of complete Fieschergrat.
1890-07-16
Walcherhorn, ,
First ascent		Thomas Henry Philpott, Christian Almer, Christian Roth, H. Bowyer, Rudolf Almer, Peter Almer
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #44A
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #13
  • Munter 1995 #1320
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #401
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
From Mönchjoch via Ewigschneefäld. F/G1; 2,5-3h.
  • SAC Jungfrau #401.1
  • Munter #1321
P.366846.558768.037983668
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.362146.557608.041153621
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.362446.561838.033223624
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.361146.562428.029833611
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Gross Fiescherhorn
Gross Fiescherhorn46.55138888888898.061388888888894049
  • Gross Fiescherhorn (4049m46.55138888888898.06138888888889)
  • P.3844 (3844m46.553978.05684)
  • P.3804 (3804m46.556028.05358)
  • P.3711 (3711m46.548688.05756)
  • Kleines Fiescherhorn (Ochsen, Ochs) (3895m46.555568.07556)
Located on Bernese Alps main ridge between Mönch in the west and Finsterarrhorn in the east. Large ridge system contaioning Gross Grünhorn, Fiescher Gabelhorn and Wannenhorn deviates to the south at Gross Fiescherhorn. The peak itself has two major summits besides the main summit, Kleines Fiescherhorn and Hinteres Fiescherhorn. Ascents are usually made via SW or SE Ridge starting from Mönchsjoch, Konkordia or Finsteraarhorn Hut. The real attraction of the peak is famous Fiescherwand, rising 1300 above the glacier and sporting several serious mixed routes. Rock quality is not very good.
1862-07-23
Gross Fiescherhorn, ,
First ascent		Adolphus Warburton Moore, H. B. George, Ulrich Kaufmann, Christian Almer
1871-08-10
Gross Fiescherhorn, Südostgrat,
First ascent		Südostgrat: F. Bischoff, P. Bohren & P. Egger
1887-07-31
Gross Fiescherhorn, Fieschergrat,
First ascent		Fieschergrat: H. Wolly, C. Jossi & H. Kaufmann
1926-08-13
Gross Fiescherhorn, NE Rib,
First ascent		NE Rib: P. Schumacher & W. Amstutz
1930-09-05
Gross Fiescherhorn, Welzenbach,
First ascent		Welzenbach: Willo Welzenbach & H. Tillmann
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #44
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #45C
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #25
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #26
  • Munter 1995 #1310
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402
  • Moran 2007 #6
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Fiescherwand (North face)
Welzenbach (North Face Direct). ED2; IV, 65°; 1300m, 10-12h. 1930-09-05First ascentWillo Welzenbach & H. Tillmann, 1930-09-05.
One of the hardest ice faces in the Alps.
  • SAC Jungfrau #402.3
NE Rib (Nordostrippe, Nordpfeiler zum Nordwestlichen Vorgipfel (P3804), North rib of Gross Fiescherhorn fore-summit). Mixed, TD+/G9; IV+ (passages), mostly IV and III; 1000m, 8-12h. 1926-08-13First ascentP. Schumacher & W. Amstutz, 1926-08-13.
The easies route through 1250m high and 4km wide Fiescherwand to Point 3804. Objectiv safe except for summit cornice.
  • Munter #1314
  • SAC Jungfrau #402.2
North Ridge
Fieschergrat (NW Ridge, West flank & NW ridge). AD-/G4-5; 50-55°, III; 650m, 3-5h from Mönchjoch hut. 1887-07-31First ascentH. Wolly, C. Jossi & H. Kaufmann, 1887-07-31.
4km long mixed and ice ridge from Unteren Mönchsjoch. Often corniced.
  • Moran 6c
  • Munter #1312
  • Westalpen I #26
  • SAC Jungfrau #416
South side
Südostgrat (SE ridge). Glacier, PD/G3-4; II and I; 780m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch. From Konkordia hut 1350m, from Finsteraarhorn hut 1000m. 1871-08-10First ascentF. Bischoff, P. Bohren & P. Egger, 1871-08-10.
Normal route. Glacier route from Mönchjoch hut. Also possible from Konkordia hut or Finsteraarhorn hut.
  • Moran 6a,6b
  • Munter #1312
  • SAC Jungfrau #402.4
Hinteres Fiescherhorn46.5463468.0677084025
Easy routes on SE ridge (AD), NW ridge (F) and SW rib (Konkordiahutte, PD). East ridge is significantly more difficult (D).
1885-07-28
Hinteres Fiescherhorn, ,
First ascent		Eugen Guido Lammer, August Lorria
  • SAC Jungfrau #404
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #25
  • Munter 1995 #1300
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #404
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G3.
P.384446.553978.056843844
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.380446.556028.053583804
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.2
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.371146.548688.057563711
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.397346.548468.065383973
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1a
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.399846.547558.066423998
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #402.1a
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.398146.544268.068273981
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #404.3
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD.
Fieschersattel46.549118.064843923
  • Munter 1995 #1240
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #403
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G3.
Fieschergrat
Kleines Fiescherhorn (Ochsen, Ochs)46.555568.075563895
Easy ascents from south side via Walliser Fieschergletscher (SE ridge from Fiescherjoch). NW face is part Fiescherwand. North ridge forms the left hand border of the face.
1920-08-05
Kleines Fiescherhorn, ,
First ascent		De Villiers, Schwab
1920-08-05
Kleines Fiescherhorn, NE flank of Ochs,
First ascent		NE flank of Ochs: De Villiers & Schwab
1935-08-09
Kleines Fiescherhorn, Lüthi-Steuri,
First ascent		Lüthi-Steuri: M. Lüthi & H. Steuri
  • Munter 1995 #1325
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #412
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
NE flank
North ridge. G6-7; 7-8h.
  • Munter #1332
NE flank of Ochs. AD+/G6; 5,5-7h from hut. 1920-08-05First ascentDe Villiers & Schwab, 1920-08-05.
  • Moran 6e
  • Munter #1328
  • SAC Jungfrau #412.5
NW face
Lüthi-Steuri. ED1/G11-12; V, 75°; 1300m, 13-15h. 1935-08-09First ascentM. Lüthi & H. Steuri, 1935-08-09.
Direct route to the summit of Klein Fiescherhorn.
  • SAC Jungfrau #412.3
  • Munter #1333
Fieschergrat (P.3742)46.551398.088333742
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #416
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.357846.558778.078463578
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.334346.562968.077043343
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.382446.554168.078923824
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.374246.551758.088153742
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.370146.551378.093553701
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Fiescherjoch46.553068.081313685
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #421
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Grünhorn
Gross Grünhorn46.53194444444448.077777777777784044
  • Gross Grünhorn (4044m46.53194444444448.07777777777778)
  • P.3585 (3585m46.528438.08441)
  • Klein Grünhorn (3913m46.5365288.073917)
Located between Aletschgletscher and Fieschergletscher, on the ridge system running south of Gross Fiescherhorn, spank in the middle of the biggest glaciers in the Alps.
1865-08-07
Gross Grünhorn, ,
First ascent		Edmund von Fellenberg, Peter Michel, Peter Egger, Peter Inäbnit
1885-08-07
Gross Grünhorn, via Grünegghorn and SW Ridge,
First ascent		via Grünegghorn and SW Ridge: Edmund von Fellenberg, Peter Egger, Peter Michel & Peter Innit
1907-08-04
Gross Grünhorn, Nordgrat,
First ascent		Nordgrat: J. Farrar & H. Reade
1913-05-26
Gross Grünhorn, SE Ridge & Face,
First ascent		SE Ridge & Face: F. von Bethmann-Hollweg, O. Supersaxo & O. Supersaxo
1967-07-27
Gross Grünhorn, East Pillar,
First ascent		East Pillar: C Blum & U Frei
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #45
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #45B
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #22
  • Munter 1995 #1276
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #407
  • Moran 2007 #5
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
North ridge
Nordgrat. D/G6-7; III/IV-; 800m, 6-7h from Mönchjoch. 1907-08-04First ascentJ. Farrar & H. Reade, 1907-08-04.
Over Klein Grünhorn.
  • Moran 5d
  • SAC Jungfrau #407.3
  • Munter #1279
SE side
East Pillar (Ostpfeiler). TD/G8; V-; 650m, 7-11h (actual climb), 1400m from the hut. 1967-07-27First ascentC Blum & U Frei, 1967-07-27.
  • Moran 5f
  • Munter #1283
  • SAC Jungfrau #407.5
SE Ridge & Face. Mixed, D/G5-6; III; 1000m, 4-6h from Finsteraarhorn hut. 1913-05-26First ascentF. von Bethmann-Hollweg, O. Supersaxo & O. Supersaxo, 1913-05-26.
  • Moran 5e
  • Munter #1282
  • SAC Jungfrau #407.7
SW Ridge from Finsteraarhorn hut (SE flank & SW ridge). G4; 1050m, 4-5h.
More recommended in descent. Bolts for rappel.
  • Moran 5b
  • Munter #1281
West side
via Grünegghorn and SW Ridge. II PD/G3-4; 40°, III- and II; 4,5-5h from Konkordia hut. 1885-08-07First ascentEdmund von Fellenberg, Peter Egger, Peter Michel & Peter Innit, 1885-08-07.
  • Moran 5a
  • Munter #1277
  • Westalpen I #22
  • SAC Jungfrau #407.1
West Ridge from Ewigschneefeld. AD+/G4-5; 1600m, 6-7h.
  • Munter #1278
Nordwestgrat (NW ridge). D/G6-7; IV (short passage), otherwise III; 750m, 3h from Lücke, 1200m7-7,5h from Konkordia hut (2850m), 3-4h from Klein Grünnhorn.
  • Munter #1279
P.358546.528438.084413585
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Kleine Grünhornlücke46.540378.071553739
  • Munter 1995 #1295
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #405
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G2.
Klein Grünhorn46.5365288.0739173913
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #45A
  • Munter 1995 #1288
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #406
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
East side
Ostrippe. D; IV.
  • SAC Jungfrau #406.2
West side
SW ridge. PD; 3h.
Via Ewigschneefäld.
  • SAC Jungfrau #406.4
Grünegghorn46.526398.073613863
  • Grünegghorn (3863m46.526398.07361)
  • Grünhörnli (3595m 46.518088.08139)
  • P.3475 (3475m46.517198.06399)
  • P.3787 (3787m46.524948.07014)
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #45
  • Munter 1995 #1270
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #408
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G3.
Grünhörnli 46.518088.081393595
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.347546.517198.063993475
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.378746.524948.070143787
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Grünhornlücke46.513758.0835283279
Separates Fiescherhorn-Grünhorn group in the north from Walliser Fieshorner in the south. The pass also acts as connection from Konkordia hut (west) to Fisnetraarhorn hut (east). Easy (F) from both sides.
1812-08-11
Grünhornlücke, ,
First ascent		Johann Rudolf Meyer, Arnold Abbühl, Kaspar Huber, Alois Volker, Joseph Bortis
  • SAC Jungfrau #411
  • Munter 1995 #1175
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #411
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
F.

Gruppo della Jungfrau

Jungfrau
Jungfrau46.53666666666677.96254158
The highest peak in Lauterbrunner-Grindelwald area and part of the famous three of Bernese Alps together with Mönch and Eiger. Jungfrau was the second 4000 meter peak in the Alps to be climbed. The famous railway inside the mountains end at Jungfraujoch (3454m), which greatly shortens the access to east side of the peak. SE ridge via Rottalsattel is the normal route and very popular.
1811-08-03
Jungfrau, ,
First ascent		Johann Rudolf, Hieronymus Meyer, Alois Volker, Joseph Bortis
1811-08-03
Jungfrau, Normal route from Rottalsattel,
First ascent		Normal route from Rottalsattel: Johann Rudolf Meyer, Hieronymus Meyer, Alois Volker and Joseph Bortis.
1865-08-29
Jungfrau, Guggi Route,
First ascent		Guggi Route: H. George, G. Young, C. Almer, U. Almer sr. & H. Baumann
1885-09-21
Jungfrau, Innerer Rottalgrat,
First ascent		Innerer Rottalgrat: F. von Allmen, U. Brunner, F. Graf jr., K. Schlunegger & J. Stager
1911-07-30
Jungfrau, Nordorstgrat,
First ascent		Nordorstgrat: A. Weber & H. Schlunegger sr.
1926-08-24
Jungfrau, Rottbrettgrat,
First ascent		Rottbrettgrat: E, Gertsch, Ed Gertsch & F. Fuchs
1997-01-01
Jungfrau, Jungfrau Marathon,
First ascent		Jungfrau Marathon: Sacha Wettstein & Andreas Leibundgut
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #37
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #38
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #14
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #206
  • Moran 2007 #8
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
North face
North face rises whopping 3000m above the ground of Lauterbrunnen valley.
Guggi Route. Ice, G7/D+; 50-55°; 480m/1400m, 8-10h from Guggi hut. 1865-08-29First ascentH. George, G. Young, C. Almer, U. Almer sr. & H. Baumann, 1865-08-29.
Fine but serious ice route route on the hanging glacier of North Face.
  • Munter #1096
East side
Nordorstgrat (NE ridge). D+/G8; IV/V-; 760m, 7-9h from Mönchjoch, 8-10h from Jungfraujoch. 1911-07-30First ascentA. Weber & H. Schlunegger sr., 1911-07-30.
  • Munter #1097
  • Moran 8b
  • SAC Jungfrau #206.8
Normal route from Rottalsattel (SE ridge). Snow/mixed, II PD+/AD/G3-4/Rus 2B-3A; 55°, III; 850m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch. 1811-08-03First ascentJohann Rudolf Meyer, Hieronymus Meyer, Alois Volker and Joseph Bortis., 1811-08-03.
Normal route. Classic snow/mixed climb from Jungfraujoch via Rottalsattel and SE Ridge.
  • Westalpen I #14
  • Moran 8a
  • Munter #1090
  • SAC Jungfrau #206.1
SW side
Innerer Rottalgrat (SW Ridge). III D/G5; III; 1400m, 6-7h from Rottal hut. 1885-09-21First ascentF. von Allmen, U. Brunner, F. Graf jr., K. Schlunegger & J. Stager, 1885-09-21.
  • Moran 8c
  • Munter #1094
  • SAC Jungfrau #206.3
NW side
The face has several extreme routes like Schäli-Weber (ABO, 90) and Siegrist-Weber (ABO, M6+, 75).
Lauper route (Nordwestflanke). TD/G9-10; 55°, IV; 9-10h from Silberhorn hut.
Classic mixed climb on NW Flank on Wengen Jungfrau.
  • Munter #1098
  • SAC Jungfrau #207.2
Rottbrettgrat (NW Ridge). G7/D+; III,A0/IV; 1500m, 8-12h from Silberhorn hut. 1926-08-24First ascentE, Gertsch, Ed Gertsch & F. Fuchs, 1926-08-24.
  • Moran 8d
  • Munter #1095
  • SAC Jungfrau #206.6
Jungfrau Marathon. 7a; 300m, 16h. 1997-01-01First ascentSacha Wettstein & Andreas Leibundgut, 1997.
Combination of "Stägers Bürtblätz" (350m, 7a+) and "Fätze und Bitze" (300m, 7a). The Jungfrau is then reached along Rotbrättfgrat.
P.379046.535127.9543790
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Silberlicka46.539277.950943638
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.399246.541287.967323992
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.380946.544877.969773809
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Wengen Jungfrau46.539637.963424089
North summit of Jungfrau.
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #207
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Rottalhorn46.531947.967223972
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #204
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD.
Silberhorn46.542227.948893695
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #206.7
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #208
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
TD.
Jungfraujoch46.54737.978623466
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #215
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
F.
Louvitor (Louwitor, Lauitor)46.523567.975653659
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #201
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Rottalsattel46.533467.965123885
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #205
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Louvihorn (Louwihorn)46.52687.969243777
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #203
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD-.
Schneehoren46.549097.961853400
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #209
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Mönch
Unteres Mönchjoch46.562738.018483518
  • Munter 1995 #1245
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #217
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Mönch46.55833333333337.997222222222224107
  • Mönch (4107m46.55833333333337.99722222222222)
  • P.3770 (3770m46.556147.99057)
  • P.3885 (3885m46.555718.00231)
  • P.3811 (3811m46.554727.9927)
  • Sphinx (3571m46.547557.98545)
  • P.3559 (Nollen) (3559m46.557767.98760)
  • P.3680 (3680m46.561048.00819)
Central peak of the famous three. Three prominent ridges: West, SE and NE. Very popular climbing objective, particularly on West and SE ridges. Nollen is famous and reasonably popular mid-grade outing.
1857-08-15
Mönch, ,
First ascent		Sigismund Porges, Christian Almer, Christian Kaufmann, Ulrich Kaufmann
1866-01-01
Mönch, Nollen,
First ascent		Nollen: Edmund von Fellenberg, Christian Michel & Peter Egger
1921-01-01
Mönch, Lauper route,
First ascent		Lauper route: Hans Lauper
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #39
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #40
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #40A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #40B
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #15
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #16
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #17
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #18
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #216
  • Moran 2007 #7
  • Mittelpunkt im Dreigestirn
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
NE face
NE Face. TD-; 57, mostly 45°; 250m, 3h. 550m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch.
  • Moran 7f
  • Westalpen I #17
  • SAC Jungfrau #216.21
NE ridge. AD+; 5-6h from Möncjoch.
Most difficult of three main ridges.
South side
Above Jungrfraufirn and Mönchjoch. Mönchjochshütte is located at the feet of SE ridge.
ESE Ridge. Mixed, II AD-/G3; II, 45°; 650m, 2,5-3h from Jungfraujoch, 450m, 2-3h from Mönchjochs hut.
  • Moran 7a
  • Munter #1104
  • Westalpen I #15
  • SAC Jungfrau #216.1
South face. D; 55°; 500m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch.
Climbs the obvious snow/ice ramp on the south face.
  • Moran 7c
  • Westalpen I #16
  • SAC Jungfrau #216.2
SW Ridge. II AD; III+; 550m, 3-4h from Jungfraujoch.
  • Moran 7b
  • Munter #1105
  • SAC Jungfrau #216.5
West face
Difficult mixed routes at (TD and above).
  • SAC Jungfrau #216.6-8
NW face
Several mixed routes around 1200m and in TD-ED range.
Nollen (Nordwestbollwerk, NW Spur). Ice, III D/G6; III/AI2/60-65°; 1310m, 6-8h from Guggi Hut. 1866-01-01First ascentEdmund von Fellenberg, Christian Michel & Peter Egger, 1866.
Classic. Classic ice route on NW Spur. Best conditions normally during early summer, later often blank ice. possibly 10m of 75-80.
  • Moran 7g
  • Munter #1107
  • Westalpen I #18
  • SAC Jungfrau #216.10
Lauper route (Nordwandrippe). Ice/mixed, TD/G9; IV/V-, 60+°; 1200m, 10-12h from Guggi hut. 1921-01-01First ascentHans Lauper, 1921.
Classic. Big scale mixed route on famous north face.
  • Munter #1108
  • SAC Jungfrau #216.17
P.377046.556147.990573770
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.388546.555718.002313885
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.381146.554727.99273811
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Sphinx46.547557.985453571
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #215
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.3559 (Nollen)46.557767.987603559
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #216.10
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
D.
P.368046.561048.008193680
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Obers Mönchjoch46.554698.006793624
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #217
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
F.
Trugberg46.54666666666678.015277777777783933
One of the least known high peaks in Bernese Alps. It is located close to Jungrau, Eiger and Mönch does nothing to attract climbers to it. It is located on short ridge running south of Mönch.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #41
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #19
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #219
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD.
Eiger
Eiger46.577618.005223970
  • Eiger (3970m46.577618.00522)
  • Chlyne Eiger (3467m46.571417.99572)
  • Grosser Turm (3688m46.580418.01274)
Famous for its notorious north face (knows as Eigerwand). Eiger's 1800 meter high north face was called 'the last and most difficult problem in the Alps'. It is quite possibly the most famous climb in the Alps. Mitteleggiridge is popular mid-grade classic. North Face plays central part in Clint Eastwood movie "Eiger Sanction".
1858-01-01
Eiger, ,
First ascent		Almer, Barrington, Bohren
1858-01-01
Eiger, West Slope and West Ridge,
First ascent		West Slope and West Ridge: Almer, Barrington & Bohren
1876-01-01
Eiger, South Ridge,
First ascent		South Ridge: G.Faster, H. Baumann & U. Rübi
1921-01-01
Eiger, Mitteleggigrat,
First ascent		Mitteleggigrat: Amatter, Brawand, Maki & Steuri
1932-01-01
Eiger, Lauper route,
First ascent		Lauper route: J.Knubel, A. Graven, H.Lauper & Zürcher
1937-08-12
Eiger, SE Face,
First ascent		SE Face: O. Eidenshink, E. Möller, H. Rebitsch & L. Vörg
1938-07-24
Eiger, Original Route,
First ascent		Original Route: Andreas Heckmair, Ludvig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer & Fritz Kasparek
1965-01-01
Eiger, Harlin Direct,
First ascent		Harlin Direct: Dougal Haston, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel, Roland Votteler and Siegfried Hupfauer
1968-01-01
Eiger, Northeast Pillar,
First ascent		Northeast Pillar: Hiebeler, Messner, Messner & Maschka
1968-01-01
Eiger, North Pillar,
First ascent		North Pillar: Cielecki, Laukajtys, Szafirski & Zysak
1969-08-15
Eiger, Japanese Direttissima,
First ascent		Japanese Direttissima: Imai, Kato, Kato, Negishi, Hirofumi & Kubo
1970-01-01
Eiger, Northeast Pillar,
First ascent		Northeast Pillar: MacEacheran, McKeith & Spence
1976-01-01
Eiger, Czech Pillar,
First ascent		Czech Pillar: Smíd, Kysilková, Placheck & Rybicka
1978-01-01
Eiger, Czech Route,
First ascent		Czech Route: Smíd, Rybicka, Smíd & Flejberk
1979-01-01
Eiger, Geneva Pillar,
First ascent		Geneva Pillar: Hopfgartner & Michel Piola
1980-01-01
Eiger, Direct West Ridge,
First ascent		Direct West Ridge: Piola & Sprungli
1981-01-01
Eiger, North Corner,
First ascent		North Corner: Howald, Howald & Ruedi
1982-01-01
Eiger, Knez Route,
First ascent		Knez Route: Knez
1982-01-01
Eiger, Nordwand Westausläufer Schlupfloch,
First ascent		Nordwand Westausläufer Schlupfloch: Ochsner & Brunner
1983-01-01
Eiger, Ideal Direttissima,
First ascent		Ideal Direttissima: Pochyl
1983-01-01
Eiger, Piola-Ghilini Direttissima,
First ascent		Piola-Ghilini Direttissima: Rene Ghilini & Michel Piola
1983-01-01
Eiger, Spit Verdonesque Édenté,
First ascent		Spit Verdonesque Édenté: Maillefer & Steiner
1985-01-01
Eiger, Slovenian Route,
First ascent		Slovenian Route: Knez, Freser & Tic
1985-01-01
Eiger, Toni Hiebeler Memorial Route,
First ascent		Toni Hiebeler Memorial Route: Luke, Pitelka & Smid
1988-01-01
Eiger, Gelber Engel,
First ascent		Gelber Engel: Coubal & Coubal
1988-01-01
Eiger, Eigersanction,
First ascent		Eigersanction: Daniel Anker & Michel Piola
1988-08-17
Eiger, Löcherspiel,
First ascent		Löcherspiel: Daniel Anker & Gruber
1991-01-01
Eiger, Métanoïa,
First ascent		Métanoïa: Jeff Lowe
1992-01-01
Eiger, Le Chant du Cygne,
First ascent		Le Chant du Cygne: Daniel Anker & Michel Piola
1998-01-01
Eiger, Yeti,
First ascent		Yeti: Forlini & Faggiani
1999-01-01
Eiger, La Vida es Silbar,
First ascent		La Vida es Silbar: Daniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist
2001-01-01
Eiger, The Young Spider,
First ascent		The Young Spider: Steck & Siegrist
2001-01-01
Eiger, Deep Blue Sea,
First ascent		Deep Blue Sea: Rathmaier & Ruhstaller
2002-01-01
Eiger, Griff ins Licht,
First ascent		Griff ins Licht: Odermatt & Keller
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #42
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #43
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #42A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #42B
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #8
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #302
  • Filidor extrem WEST (2010) #33
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
North face (Eigerwand, NW face)
Mega classic, the most famous north face in the Alps. North face has host of big mixed routes, all of them difficult. Geneva Pillar on the right side of the face is home to modern rock routes, that finish much below the summit.
Northeast Pillar (Messner Route, Austrian Route). TD; 1800m, 10-14h. 1968-01-01First ascentHiebeler, Messner, Messner & Maschka, 1968.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.59
Griff ins Licht. ABO; 7c, M5; 1800m. 2002-01-01First ascentOdermatt & Keller, 2002.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.56
Northeast Pillar (Scottish Route). ED3; VI,A3; 1800m. 1970-01-01First ascentMacEacheran, McKeith & Spence, 1970.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.57
North Pillar (Polish Route). TD; 5.7/V; 1800m. 1968-01-01First ascentCielecki, Laukajtys, Szafirski & Zysak, 1968.
700m to junction with Messner Route. One pitch of aid.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.55
Slovenian Route. ED; 5.10c/VII; 1800m. 1985-01-01First ascentKnez, Freser & Tic, 1985.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.54
Harlin Direct (Harlin Direttissima). ED3/4/Rus 6B; V+,A3/M8- 5.11+/5.12- R, 85°; 1800m. 1965-01-01First ascentDougal Haston, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel, Roland Votteler and Siegfried Hupfauer, 1965.
  • World Mountaineering #3
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.51
Czech Route. ABO; 5.10a,A3, 80°; 1800m. 1978-01-01First ascentSmíd, Rybicka, Smíd & Flejberk, 1978.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.53
The Young Spider. ABO; 7a,A2, WI6 M7; 1100m. 2001-01-01First ascentSteck & Siegrist, 2001.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.52
Ideal Direttissima. ED; 1800m. 1983-01-01First ascentPochyl, 1983.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.45
Japanese Direttissima. ED+/ABO; 7c+/8a/X-/VI,A2/5.9,A3/5.13b, M5; 1800m. 1969-08-15First ascentImai, Kato, Kato, Negishi, Hirofumi & Kubo, 1969-08-15.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.44
Toni Hiebeler Memorial Route. ED+; V+,A3, 80°; 1400m. 1985-01-01First ascentLuke, Pitelka & Smid, 1985.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.43
Métanoïa. ED4/nccs VII 5.10,A5; A5; 1800m, 60 pitches. 1991-01-01First ascentJeff Lowe, 1991.
  • World Mountaineering #6
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.42
Original Route (Heckmair route, 1938 route). V ED2/G14; V-,A0, 50-70°; 1800m, 20-30h. 1938-07-24First ascentAndreas Heckmair, Ludvig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer & Fritz Kasparek, 1938-07-24.
Classic. 1800m with almost 3000m climbing distance (numerous traverses). Often at least one bivouac necessary. Harrer's book 'The White Spider: The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger' recounts the first ascent.
  • Westalpen I #8
  • Munter #1141
  • World Mountaineering #4
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.30
Geneva Pillar
'Sport climbing' sector of the north face. Routes generally stop at the end of difficult rock sections without going to the summit.
La Vida es Silbar. ABO; 7c/7a,A0; 900m. 1999-01-01First ascentDaniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist, 1999.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.35
Czech Pillar. ED; 5.10a,A4/VI+,A4; 1300m. 1976-01-01First ascentSmíd, Kysilková, Placheck & Rybicka, 1976.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.34
Geneva Pillar. ED2; 900m. 1979-01-01First ascentHopfgartner & Michel Piola, 1979.
Piola-Ghilini Direttissima. ED3/4; 6a,A3; 1400m. 1983-01-01First ascentRene Ghilini & Michel Piola, 1983.
  • World Mountaineering #7
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.33
Gelber Engel. ABO; 6c/VII+/VIII-/5.11a; 1100m. 1988-01-01First ascentCoubal & Coubal, 1988.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.32
North Corner. ED3; 6a+; 1200m, 1-2 days. 1981-01-01First ascentHowald, Howald & Ruedi, 1981.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.31
Yeti. ABO-; 7c/7c+/6c+,A1/7c,A0/5.10a,A2/VIII-,A2; 1000m. 1998-01-01First ascentForlini & Faggiani, 1998.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.27
Eigersanction. ED3; 7a; 1000m. 1988-01-01First ascentDaniel Anker & Michel Piola, 1988.
Le Chant du Cygne. ED3/ABO; 7a/6b+,A0; 900m, 12-16h. 1992-01-01First ascentDaniel Anker & Michel Piola, 1992.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.24
Spit Verdonesque Édenté. ABO/IV 7a,A1; 8a; 300m. 1983-01-01First ascentMaillefer & Steiner, 1983.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.22
Deep Blue Sea. ABO; 7b+; 300m, 7-11h. 2001-01-01First ascentRathmaier & Ruhstaller, 2001.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.21
Nordwand Westausläufer
Knez Route. TD; 5.7/IV+; 650m, 3h. 1982-01-01First ascentKnez, 1982.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.17
Nordwand Westausläufer Schlupfloch (Ochsner & Brunner Route). TD+; 5.9/VI-; 600m, 5,5h. 1982-01-01First ascentOchsner & Brunner, 1982.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.16
Löcherspiel. ED; 6a/b/5.10d; 350m, 4-6h. 1988-08-17First ascentDaniel Anker & Gruber, 1988-08-17.
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.15
NE face (Nordostwand)
Lauper route. Mixed, G12/ED-; V (mostly IV+, VI and III), 50-55°; 1700m, 15-18h. 1932-01-01First ascentJ.Knubel, A. Graven, H.Lauper & Zürcher, 1932.
Classic. Very long classic mixed route on the NE Face.
  • Munter #1140
  • World Mountaineering #1
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.60
Mitteleggigrat (Mitteleggi Ridge). Rock, III D/G5/nccs IV 5.8,A0; IV,A0; 615m/820m, 4-8h from Mitteleggi hut. 1921-01-01First ascentAmatter, Brawand, Maki & Steuri, 1921.
Classic. Classic ridge route on the Northeast ridge.
  • Munter #1136
  • World Mountaineering #15
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.1
SE face
Aside of classic routes, several modern routes.
SE Face. TD/G10; V+,A0; 10-12h. 1937-08-12First ascentO. Eidenshink, E. Möller, H. Rebitsch & L. Vörg, 1937-08-12.
  • Munter #1139
  • World Mountaineering #14
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.6
South Ridge. D/G4; III; 5-6h from Mönchjoch. 1876-01-01First ascentG.Faster, H. Baumann & U. Rübi, 1876.
The most achievable of the Eiger’s ridges. More popular as descent.
  • World Mountaineering #12
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.10
West ridge
Direct West Ridge. 5.12a; 350m. 1980-01-01First ascentPiola & Sprungli, 1980.
West Slope and West Ridge (West Flank). IV AD/G4; III-; 1650m. 6-8h in ascent, 3-4h in descent. 1858-01-01First ascentAlmer, Barrington & Bohren, 1858.
Normal route. Very long route with difficult route finding. Poor Rock.
  • Munter #1131
  • World Mountaineering #11
  • SAC Jungfrau #302.13
Chlyne Eiger46.571417.995723467
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #302
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Grosser Turm46.580418.012743688
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Südliches Eigerjoch46.564358.002773747
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #217
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
PD.
Nördliches Eigerjoch46.572398.006643607
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #301
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
D.
Ostegg46.596978.041352709
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald

Gruppo Wannenhorn-Eggishorn

Walliser Fiescherhörner
Wyssnollen (Weissnollen)46.509638.08823590
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #48A
  • Munter 1995 #1189
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #606
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
F/G2-3.
Fiescher Gabelhorn46.5023338.084253876
Northernmost main peak of Walliser Fiescherhörner. Long east-west side ridge towards Konkordiahütte with Chamm (3866m) and Fülbärg (3242m). Normal route is via east flank and SE ridge (G4, 4h from Finsteraarhornhütte).
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #48
  • Munter 1995 #1192
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #605
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G4.
Gabelhornsattel46.500028.086223759
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #607
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Chamm (Kamm)46.501678.079173866
  • Munter 1995 #1185
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #603
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G3.
Faulberg (Fülbärg)46.500958.059743243
  • Munter 1995 #1180
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #601
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD/G2-3.
Chammjoch46.502178.079883765
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #604
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Fülbärgpass46.501738.061773170
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #602
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD.
Schönbuhljoch46.496998.092473724
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #609
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Schönbühlhorn46.4981948.0915283854
The peak has poor rock, so ridges are the only routes with alpinistic interest.
  • Munter 1995 #1195
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #608
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
NW ridge
NW ridge. G3-4; 4-4,5h.
  • Munter #1196
  • SAC Jungfrau #608.5
Wannenhorn
Gross Wannenhorn46.49388888888898.096944444444443906
  • Gross Wannenhorn (3906m46.49388888888898.09694444444444)
  • Klein Wannenhorn (3706m46.4836168.104772)
The highest peaks of Walliser Fiesherhörner. Mostly climbed during the winter using skis from the east side.
1864-08-06
Gross Wannenhorn, ,
First ascent		Gottlieb Studer, Rudolf Lindt, Kaspar Blatter, Peter Sulzer
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #24
  • Munter 1995 #1200
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #610
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
East side
Nordflanke und Ostrgrat (Ostflanke). PD+/T5/G3; 4-5h.
  • SAC Jungfrau #610.1
  • Munter #1201
Wannenhornsattel46.485568.102953669
1866-08-23
Wannenhornsattel, ,
First ascent		Sedley taylor, W.H. Gladstone, C.S. Parker, Fridolin Schwick, Joh. Tännler
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #611
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Klein Wannenhorn46.4836168.1047723706
Lower and more southern than Gross Wannenhorn. Far more frequent climbing target during the summer. Alpinistically the most interesting feature is long SE ridge (Distelgrat), which has several rock climbs from Fieschertal. Normal route is North ridge (PD).
1866-08-23
Klein Wannenhorn, ,
First ascent		Sedley taylor, W.H. Gladstone, C.S. Parker, Fridolin Schwick, Joh. Tännler
1935-01-01
Klein Wannenhorn, Südostwand,
First ascent		Südostwand: Diehl & Baumgartner
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #48
  • Munter 1995 #1207
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #612
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #7.1
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G2.
SE face
Südostwand. D/G7; IV; 700m, 7h; 12-14h from Burghütte. 1935-01-01First ascentDiehl & Baumgartner, 1935.
  • SAC Jungfrau #612.4
  • Munter #1209
Distelgrat (SE ridge)
SE ridge is known as Distelgrat (Paroi du Slot). It has several difficult rock routes (french 6 and upwards), all accessible from Burghütte in Fieschertal. The complete ridge itself is D, 7-8h in descent. No complete ascent of the ridge is recorded.
Icarus. Rock, TD; 6b/6a,A0; 11 pitches.
Classic. Classic route on SW face of the ridge.
  • SAC Jungfrau #616.1
Genius. Rock, II TD; 6a+; 400m.
Classic. Classic route on SE face of the ridge.
Wannenzwillinge (Nördliche Wannenzwillinge)46.478758.1036113481
Two sharp rock peaks located on continuation of Klein Wannenhorn South ridge.
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #613
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.2
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Wannenzwillinge (Südliche Wannenzwillinge)46.476998.103113430
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #613
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.3
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Strahlhorn46.452758.0951943027
Culmination point of Strahlgrat, which is continuation of Klein Wannenhorn South ridge.
  • Jungfrau Region 2010 #615
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
T5.
Gruppo dell'Eggishorn
Eggishorn46.43138888888898.094166666666672927
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #13
T2.

Catena Schreckhorn-Wetterhorn

Gruppo dello Schreckhorn

Gwächta
Gwächtejoch46.603378.094923100
  • Munter 1995 #1543
Gwächta46.604568.091123163
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #49
  • Munter 1995 #1572
PD/G2.
Mättenberg46.608528.078693103
  • Munter 1995 #1565
G2.
Schreckhorn
Klein Lauteraarhorn46.578898.139173737
  • Munter 1995 #1603
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G4.
Hugihorn46.572788.146943647
  • Munter 1995 #1610
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
PD.
Lauteraarsattel46.602568.133183124
  • Munter 1995 #1550
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G2.
Lauteraarrothörner46.56588.15453469
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Abshwunghorn46.565898.165273134
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Schreckhorn46.598.118055555555564078
  • Schreckhorn (4078m46.598.11805555555556)
  • P.3650
  • P.3157
Largely a rock peak with good rock quality uncharacteristically good for high mountains of the area. Reputably the most difficult 4000m peak in Bernese Alps, easiest routes at AD+. Long approach to all routes, thus one of the most exacting peaks in the Alps. Most popular routes are from the south side.
1864-08-01
Schreckhorn, ,
First ascent		Leslie Stephen, Ulrich Kaufmann, Peter Michel, Christian Michel
1883-08-07
Schreckhorn, Andersongrat,
First ascent		Andersongrat: J.St Anderson, G.P.Baker, U.Almer & A.Pollinger
1902-01-01
Schreckhorn, SW Ridge,
First ascent		SW Ridge: J.H.Wicks, E.H.F.Bradby & C.Wiloen
1955-01-01
Schreckhorn, South Pillar,
First ascent		South Pillar:
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #58
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #59
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #10
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #11
  • Munter 1995 #1590
  • Moran 2007 #2
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
North side
Andersongrat (NW Ridge). AD+/D/G6-7; III, mixed; 1750m from the hut. 1883-08-07First ascentJ.St Anderson, G.P.Baker, U.Almer & A.Pollinger, 1883-08-07.
Most difficult and the longest of three classic ridges. From Gleckstein hut or Lauteraarhorn hut. 4-5h from Lauteraarhorn hut to Lauteraarsattel. From there first descent to Lauteraar glacier then ascent via Nässijoch (4-5h from the hut) and Andersongrat to summit (3h from Nässijoch).
  • Munter #1593
  • Moran 2c
NE Arete (Nordostkante). Mixed, G7-8; IV (passages) and III, avg. 50°; 500m. 3-4h from the begin of the climb, 8-10h from Gleckstein and Lauteraarhorn huts.
Long and difficult mixed route.
  • Munter #1594
South side
SW Ridge. III AD+/G5; III+/IV-, 40°; 600m/1560m, 7-8h from Schreckhorn hut (2520m). Approach 1570m, 5-6h, with cable car 1160m, 4-5h. 1902-01-01First ascentJ.H.Wicks, E.H.F.Bradby & C.Wiloen, 1902.
Normal route. Schreckfirn - shoulder - SW ridge.
  • Westalpen I #10
  • Munter #1592
  • Moran 2a
South Pillar. D+/TD-; V; 600m, 5-6h (actual climb). 1955-01-01Schreckhorn, South Pillar, First ascent , 1955.
Left side of the prominent couloir.
  • Munter #1595
  • Moran 2d
SE ridge (ESE ridge). AD+/G5; 50°, II.
Via Schrecksattel. From Schreckfirn to Schrecksattel (col between Lauteraarhorn and Schreckhorn, 3914m) either entirely via curved snowy couloir, over the narrow rock rib in the couloir or via Grosse Rippe on the left side of couloir above the upper part of the couloir. From Schrecksattel along SE Ridge to summit.
  • Westalpen I #11
  • Munter #1591
  • Moran 2b
Lauteraarhorn
Traverse from Lauteraarhorn. IV; 5-6h summit to summit.
P.3650 46.588648.11444
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.315746.586458.10765
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Klein Schreckhorn46.601818.102063493
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #50
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #50A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #50B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #58A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #58B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #59A
  • Munter 1995 #1577
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G2-3.
Lauteraarhorn46.5833338.1280564042
  • Lauteraarhorn (4042m46.5833338.128056)
  • Klein Lauteraarhorn (3737m46.578898.13917)
  • P.3981 (3981m46.585038.12812)
  • P.4013 (4013m46.585978.12751)
  • P.4014 (4014m46.587348.12685)
  • P.3938 (3938m46.588618.12449)
  • P.3918 (3918m46.582238.13121)
  • P.3864 (3864m46.581528.13329)
  • P.3620 (3620m46.579548.13828)
Lauteraarhorn is the southern high peak on the 10km Schreckhorn crest.
1842-08-08
Lauteraarhorn, S Face Couloir and SE Ridge,
First ascent		S Face Couloir and SE Ridge: Arnold Escher, Eduard Desor & Christian Girard
1865-08-07
Lauteraarhorn, ,
First ascent		Pierre Jean Édouard Desor, Arnold Escher von der Linth, Christian Girard, Melchior Bannholzer, Jakob Leuthold
1885-01-01
Lauteraarhorn, WSW Ridge with traverse to SE Ridge,
First ascent		WSW Ridge with traverse to SE Ridge:
1902-01-01
Lauteraarhorn, NW Ridge,
First ascent		NW Ridge:
1907-01-01
Lauteraarhorn, Ostwandrippe,
First ascent		Ostwandrippe:
1930-01-01
Lauteraarhorn, WSW Ridge Direct,
First ascent		WSW Ridge Direct:
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #60
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #60A
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #29
  • Munter 1995 #1597
  • Moran 2007 #3
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
East side
Ostwandrippe (East Rib of NW Ridge (point 4011), ENE ridge if point 4011). D/G7-8; IV; 1000m/1600m, 10-12h from Lauteraar hut. 1907-01-01Lauteraarhorn, Ostwandrippe, First ascent , 1907.
  • Munter #1601
  • Moran 3e
South face
S Face Couloir and SE Ridge. AD/AD+; avg. 40°, II+; 1300m, 5-6h from Aarbiwak (2731m), 1550m, 3h more from Lauteraarhorn hut. 1842-08-08First ascentArnold Escher, Eduard Desor & Christian Girard, 1842-08-08.
Normal route. Avalanche danger when new snow.
  • Munter #1598
  • Moran 3a
  • Westalpen I #29
WSW Ridge (SW ridge)
WSW Ridge Direct (Westgrat). TD-/G8; V; 4-5h from Strahleggpass, 8-9h from the hut. 1930-01-01Lauteraarhorn, WSW Ridge Direct, First ascent , 1930.
Splendid crack climbing on the summit wall. From Schreckhorn hut to Strahlegg Pass (3345m) and along the ridge to summit.
  • Munter #1599
  • Moran 3c
WSW Ridge with traverse to SE Ridge. AD+; II; 1400m, 6-7h from Schreckhorn hut. 1885-01-01Lauteraarhorn, WSW Ridge with traverse to SE Ridge, First ascent , 1885.
From below summit wall traverse along ledge system (II) to SE Ridge and along it to summit.
  • Moran 3b
NW Ridge (Lauteraargrat)
NW Ridge (Lauteraargrat). D+/G7; IV; 4-5h from Schrecksattel, 5-6h from Schreckhorn summit. 1902-01-01Lauteraarhorn, NW Ridge, First ascent , 1902.
  • Moran 3d
  • Munter #1600
P.398146.585038.128123981
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.401346.585978.127514013
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.401446.587348.126854014
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.393846.588618.124493938
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.391846.582238.131213918
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.386446.581528.133293864
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.362046.579548.138283620
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Nässihorn46.5946778.1115433741
  • Munter 1995 #1582
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G2.
Nässijoch46.593978.113533728
  • Munter 1995 #1587
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G3.
Schrecksattel46.588948.122543913
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Strahlegghorn
Strahleggpass46.577598.118363332
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #60B
  • Munter 1995 #1530
G2.
Strahlegghorn46.575488.117943460
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #57
  • Munter 1995 #1614
PD+.
Nasse Strahlegg46.55438.131343482
  • Munter 1995 #11618
G2.

Gruppo del Wetterhorn

Wetterhörner massif
Wetterhörner
Mittelhorn (Wetterhörner)46.63527777777788.124722222222223704
  • Mittelhorn (Wetterhörner) (3704m46.63527777777788.12472222222222)
  • P.3655 (3655m46.633198.12681)
  • P.3550 (3550m46.632718.12931)
  • P.3368 (3368m 46.639278.13289)
  • P.3339 (3339m 46.627428.12694)
  • P.3164 (3164m46.644348.13955)
Seen from Grindelwald blatantly obvious steep rock face (NW face). Much gentler and snowier from the east side. The first confirmed ascent from the Grindelwald side in 1854 is considered to have marked the start of the 'Golden Age' of alpinism.
1854-09-17
Mittelhorn, ,
First ascent		A. Wills, A Balmat, A. Simmond, U. Lauener, P. Bohren
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #54B
  • Munter 1995 #1695
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
PD.
P.365546.633198.126813655
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.355046.632718.129313550
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.3368 46.639278.132893368
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.3339 46.627428.126943339
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Wetterhorn46.638768.115583692
1844-08-31
Wetterhorn, ,
First ascent		Melchior Bannholzer, Joh. Jaun
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #51
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #52
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #53
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #52A
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #9
  • Munter 1995 #1675
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
AD-/G3.
P.342846.637088.110143428
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.342846.640288.121963428
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.345246.642298.114153452
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Rosenhorn46.631948.137223689
  • Munter 1995 #11711
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G2.
P.364346.630228.139213643
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.350746.628578.144263507
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.329946.635358.142283299
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Rosenegg46.625088.143273469
  • Munter 1995 #1662
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G2-3.
Scheideggwetterhorn46.645018.110553361
Not much of a summit, but but highly impressive erocj face well visible from Grindelwald.
  • Munter 1995 #1686
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #8.1
  • Filidor extrem WEST (2010) #32
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G12.
Chrinnenhorn46.632718.097222741
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
T4.
Wettersattel46.635298.117593479
  • Munter 1995 #1653
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G3.
Bärglistock
Bärglistock (Berglistock)46.615568.140833656
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #55
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #55A
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Bärglijoch46.621628.14093431
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Ankerbälli46.611468.145413600
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
PD+.
P.354246.609028.149923542
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.351946.607538.150453519
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Östliche Ankenbällilücke46.603208.158493266
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Catena del Wellhorn
Wellhornsattel46.641228.136313199
  • Munter 1995 #1650
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Wellhorn46.655648.142013191
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #62
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #62A
  • Munter 1995 #1725
  • Munter 1995 #1726
  • Filidor extrem WEST (2010) #38
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
G3-4.
P.316446.644348.139553164
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.312546.651768.140243124
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
P.2962 46.660128.144542962
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Klein Wellhorn46.665118.150162700
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #63
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 254 - Interlaken
  • Swisstopo - 1229 - Grindelwald
Gruppo dell'Hangendgletscherhorn
Hangendgletscherhorn46.629448.182513292
1788-01-01
Hangendgletscherhorn, ,
First ascent		Johann Heinrich Weiss, Joachim Eugen Müller
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
PD/T3.
Tossen (Dossen, Dossenhorn)46.645938.162443144
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
PD+/T4.
Ränfenhorn46.633528.163453255
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Tossensattel46.650388.162583009
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Ränfenjoch46.642798.159473040
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Westliche Wätterlimi46.629628.153563216
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Engelhörner
Engelhorn North
Hohjegiburg46.68088.186192639
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Tennhorn46.684048.188322519
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
T5.
Mittaghiri46.688458.191982282
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Tennlücke 46.683148.188422462
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Simelistock-Gross Engelhorn
Gross Simelistock46.6788898.1705562482
Not very independent mountain, but among the most visited climbing destinations. Traverse from Klein Simelistock (2384m) to Gross Simelistock is quite possibly the most frequented route in Engelhörner group. Another classic is Gagelfänger on Klein Simelistock (II TD+, 6b))
1898-01-01
Gross Simelistock, ,
First ascent		Macdonald, Allmer
  • Plaisir West 2004 #52
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
NW ridge
Traverse from Klein Simelistock. Rock, III AD; 4b/4a,A0/IV/5.4; 6-8h.
  • Plaisir West 2006 52.6
Klein Simelistock (Klein Simeler)46.6823558.1790512384
Located on NW ridge of Gross Simelistock. One of the best known vlimbing peaks in Bernese Alps. Most famous classic route is Gagelfänger (II TD+, 6b).
  • Best of Genuss 3 2011 #I10
  • Plaisir West 2004 #52
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Gagelfänger. Rock, II TD/nccs IV 5.10b; 6b; 400m, 13 pitches. 1900-01-01First ascentKaspar Ochsner.
Simelisattel46.681508.181382426
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Grosses Engelhorn46.6719448.182782
  • Filidor plaisir WEST (2012)
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Urbachsengelhorn46.672398.184092767
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Gertrudspitze46.679788.183402633
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Chlys Engelhorn46.677448.1852643
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Vorderspitze46.680098.182962619
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Gemsensattel46.676278.184142541
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Gemsenspitze46.677088.184322617
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Mittelspitze46.678038.184672633
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Ulrichspitze46.678788.183652637
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Engelhorn South
Obere Engellücke46.672558.181752731
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Ürbachsattel (Urbachsattel)46.658838.170392488
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Gstellihorn (Gross Gstellihorn)46.662018.174812854
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
T2.
Untere Engellücke (Engellicken)46.669868.178842671
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Sagizähne 46.669458.178592715
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Äbnisgrat46.667108.176522735
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Engelhorn West
Kingspitz46.6756358.1763192621
Central peak on the side riudge running south-north on the west side of Ochsental.
1932-09-26
Kingspitz, ,
First ascent		Hermann Steuri, M.Lüthy, H.Haidegger
1932-09-26
Kingspitz, Nordorstwand,
First ascent		Nordorstwand: Hermann Steuri, M.Lüthy & H.Haidegger
  • Best of Genuss 3 2011 #I12
  • Plaisir West 2004 #52
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Nordorstwand (Kingwand)
Nordorstwand (Via Steuri). Rock, III D+/TD; 5c/5b,A0/5.8/VI+/VII-; 550m, 5-7h. 1932-09-26First ascentHermann Steuri, M.Lüthy & H.Haidegger, 1932-09-26.
  • Plaisir West 2006 52.11
  • Best of Genuss 3 l12.1
Rosenlauistock46.6790928.1702882198
Most interesting feature is SW face with several rock routes. Classic routes are around 200m high and around 5c-6a, e.g. Haslizwerg (TD-, 6a+).
  • Plaisir West 2004 #52
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
TD-.
Sattelspitzen46.678538.173612335
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Kastor2522
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Pollux2490
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Engelburg2204
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Tannspitze46.679198.171682255
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Haubenstock
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Niklausspitze
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Froschkopf46.673418.177662675
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Prinzen (Oberer Prinz)2621
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen
Teufelsjoch 46.674928.176852509
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1210 - Innertkirchen

Gruppo Ewigshneehorn-Ritzlihorn

Gruppo Ewigschneehorn-Bächlistock
Brandlammhoren46.579748.258473089
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #70
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Juchlistock46.580778.307932594
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
F.
Brünberg46.57618.276972982
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
AD/T4.
Chüetrifterhoren46.584988.23073117
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Hienderstock46.586518.218133307
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #72
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
PD+.
Hubelhoren46.58578.206313244
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
PD/T6.
Trifthoren46.591838.178013230
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Ewigschneehorn46.5973068.1686113329
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #65
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #65A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #65B
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Bächlistock46.5863898.2397223247
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #71
  • Munter #1930
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Gruebenjoch46.608878.244172954
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Hiendertellihorn46.600268.236893179
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #67
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #67A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #67B
  • Best of Genuss 3 2011 #I9
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #9.2
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #9.3
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
East ridge
Ostgrat (East ridge). Rock, 4c; 370m, 7 pitches, 3-4h.
It is possible to gain Südwandpfeiler as a more difficult finish option.
  • Best of Genuss 3 l9.1
Gross Diamantstock46.59258.2433333162
Absolute classic is East ridge. Normal route via East face and south ridge is substantially easier (PD, II).
1911-07-04
Gross Diamantstock, ,
First ascent		W. Preiswerk, H Zürcher, H. Baer, H. Anderegg
1911-07-04
Gross Diamantstock, Ostgrat,
First ascent		Ostgrat: W. Preiswerk, H Zürcher, H. Baer & H. Anderegg
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #68
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #68B
  • Best of Genuss 3 2011 #I8
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #9.4
  • Plaisir West
  • Gruebenkesel
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
East ridge
Ostgrat. Rock, II AD+/D-/G4-5; 4c/IV-V; 400m, 5-6h. 1km in length. 1911-07-04First ascentW. Preiswerk, H Zürcher, H. Baer & H. Anderegg, 1911-07-04.
  • Plaisir West 2006 632 pp.299
  • Munter #1946
  • Best of Genuss 3 I8.1
Alplistock
Unddri Bächlilicken (Untere Bächli-Lücke)46.594478.253492746
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Chli Diamantstock (Chlyne Diamantstock)46.596318.266892839
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #67C
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #9.5
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
PD/T4.
Alplistock46.59448.282532894
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #69
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #10.1
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
AD-/T5.
Ärlenhoren46.605498.291052453
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
T5.
Gruppo del Ritzlihorn
Ritzlihorn46.63222222222228.258888888888893282
  • Ritzlihorn (3282m46.63222222222228.25888888888889)
  • Ritzlihorn Nordgipfel (3263m)
  • Ritzlihorn Südgipfel (3278m46.632228.25888)
  • P.3193 (3193m46.627738.25823)
  • P.3137 (3137m46.624168.25739)
1900-01-01
Event
 Ärlengrätli: O. Gerecht, H. Hitss, E. Meir & G. Strüssle
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #66
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #9.1
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
East ridge
Ärlengrätli (East ridge). TD-; V. 1949-08-01First ascentO. Gerecht, H. Hitss, E. Meir & G. Strüssle, 1949-08.
Joins south ridge by P.3193. The start of the climb is at the deepest gap in the ridge between P.3193 m and Stampfhoren.
Südgrat
Südgrat. PD/T5/G5; III; 6-7h.
  • Munter #1971
Ritzlihorn Nordgipfel3263
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Ritzlihorn Südgipfel46.632228.258883278
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
P.319346.627738.258233193
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
P.313746.624168.257393137
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Golegghoren46.615558.249773076
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
PD/T5.
Ärlenlücke46.620928.254163057
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Stampfhoren46.624478.282872552
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #66A
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
PD-/T5.
Schaflägersteck46.647178.242792869
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Gallauistöck46.652128.234762869
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Bättlerhoren46.66268.229432535
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen
Mattenlimmi46.640698.249442701
  • Swisstopo - 37 - Brünigpass
  • Swisstopo - 255 - Sustenpass
  • Swisstopo - 1230 - Guttannen

Catena Gletscherhorn-Blümlisalp-Balmhorn

Gruppo Blümlisalp-Doldenhorn

Gruppo del Blümlisalp
Blüemlisalphorn (Blüemlisalp)46.48888888888897.77253661
  • Blüemlisalphorn (Blüemlisalp) (3661m46.48888888888897.7725)
  • Weisse Frau (Wyssi Frau) (3650m46.488897.7725)
  • Morgenhorn (3623m46.495177.79222)
  • Ufem Stock (3204m46.499027.77322)
Blüemlisalps group consists of three main peaks: Blüemlisalphorn, Weisse Frau and Morgenhorn. Peaks are completely covered in firn towards north and NW (Blüemisalpgletscher), while south face of 900m rock face above Kanderfirn with loose rock. S-rippe of Morgenhorn is the only recommended route on the south face of the group due to rock fall danger. Traverse of the three main peaks is a classic (G5-6). Normal routes on all three main peaks are along their NW ridges, none of which is overly technical.
1860-08-27
Blüemlisalphorn, ,
First ascent		R. Liveing, L. Stephen, J. Stone, M. Anderegg, F. Ogi, P. Simond
1860-08-27
Blüemlisalphorn, NW ridge,
First ascent		NW ridge: R. Liveing, L. Stephen, J. Stone, M. Anderegg, F. Ogi & P. Simond
1924-07-01
Blüemlisalphorn, Nordflanke,
First ascent		Nordflanke: W. Amstutz, W. Richardet & H. Salvisberg
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #17
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #18
  • Alpine Touren Wildhorn/Wildstrubel/Blüemlisalp 2011
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #5
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #6
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
North side
NW ridge. G3/III AD; II; 4h. 1860-08-27First ascentR. Liveing, L. Stephen, J. Stone, M. Anderegg, F. Ogi & P. Simond, 1860-08-27.
Normal route. Via Rothornsattel.
  • Munter #430
Nordflanke. Ice, G6/AD+; 55°, II; 450m, 2-4h, 4,5-6,5h round trip. 1924-07-01First ascentW. Amstutz, W. Richardet & H. Salvisberg, 1924-07-01.
Average angle is 45 degrees but there are significantly steeper sections.
  • Munter #433
  • Westalpen #6
Traverse
Traverse. G5-6/AD; 50°, II; 1100m, 10-12h.
Classic. Traverse of all three main peaks starting with Morgenhorn NW ridge, then following the ridge over Weisse Frau to Blüemlisalp. Reputedly one of the best climbs of the grade in whole of the Alps, much finer climb than Rochefort arete.
  • Munter #450
  • Westalpen #5
Weisse Frau (Wyssi Frau)46.488897.77253650
Central of the main summits of Blüemisalp. Climbed as part of traverse of Blüemlisalp main peaks.
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #12
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #18
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
III AD.
Morgenhorn46.495177.792223623
Easternmost main peak in Blüemlisalp group. Popular ski ascent from Blüemlisalpshütte along the normal route. East ridge (G6-7, IV) is one of the big ridge climbs in Bernese Alps.
1869-08-14
Morgenhorn, ,
First ascent		H. Baedecker, J. Bischoff, U. Lauener
1869-08-14
Morgenhorn, NW ridge,
First ascent		NW ridge: H. Baedecker, J. Bischoff & U. Lauener
1933-09-08
Morgenhorn, Südwand-Rippe,
First ascent		Südwand-Rippe: W. Gerber & A. Miller
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #12
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #18
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
NW ridge
NW ridge. G3/AD; 800m, 4h. 1869-08-14First ascentH. Baedecker, J. Bischoff & U. Lauener, 1869-08-14.
Normal route. Climbed as part of traverse of Blüemlisalp main peaks.
  • Munter #446
  • Westalpen #5
South face
Südwand-Rippe (S-rippe). D-/E5/G5; 3c/III, 45°; 600m, 4h. 1933-09-08First ascentW. Gerber & A. Miller, 1933-09-08.
  • Munter #449
Oeschinenhorn46.483797.767183297
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
AD.
Blüemlisalp Rothore46.494877.763073297
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Fründenhorn46.476857.757533369
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #16
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
II PD+.
Oeshinenjoch46.479217.765033171
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Ufem Stock46.499027.773223204
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Wildi Frau46.505757.779783260
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
II PD+.
Tschilgelpass46.491727.815992773
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Gruppo del Gspaltenhorn
Gspaltenhorn
Gspaltenhorn46.51166666666677.82753436
  • Gspaltenhorn (3436m46.51166666666677.8275)
  • Böse Tritt (3242m46.513437.82624)
  • Roti Zend (Roten Zähne) (3398m46.510747.82608)
The easternmost main peak on Gspaltenhorn-Blümlisalp-Balmhorn. Might north face rises 1600m abobe Lauterbrunnertal as counts among the biggest and mightiest in the entire Alps. The easiest route is Leiterngrat (NW ridge) while SW ridge (Rote Zähne) and NE face sport famous more difficult routes.
1900-01-01
Event
 NE face Direct: R. Schatz, E. Reiss & E. Haltiner Welzenbach: Willo Welzenbach, A. Drexel & E. Schulze East Ridge & Southeast Face: O. Brügger & H. Kohler SW ridge: S. Herford, G. Young, H. Brantschen & J. Knubel
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #14
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #11
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
NE face
1600m mixed face, one of the biggest faces in Bernese Alps. Several routes on the face (1932 Welzenbach, 1951 Direkt)
NE face Direct. G12/ED1; IV+, 60°; 1600m, 15h. 1951-07-30First ascentR. Schatz, E. Reiss & E. Haltiner, 1951-07-30.
  • Munter #468
Welzenbach. TD; 60°; 1600m. 1932-09-07First ascentWillo Welzenbach, A. Drexel & E. Schulze, 1932-09-07.
  • Munter #468
East ridge
East Ridge & Southeast Face. D; IV+; 6h. 1932-09-05First ascentO. Brügger & H. Kohler, 1932-09-05.
SW ridge (Rote Zähne)
SW ridge (Rote Zähne). G7/D/TD; IV; 6,5h, 10-12h from the hut. 1914-07-14First ascentS. Herford, G. Young, H. Brantschen & J. Knubel, 1914-07-14.
  • Munter #467
NW ridge
NW ridge (Leiterngrat). G4/E2 PD+/II PD+/AD-; II; 2,5h, 4h from the hut.
Normal route. Via Büttlassensattel.
  • Munter #466
Böse Tritt46.513437.826243242
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Gamschilücke46.497697.816082837
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Kamel46.503427.821733094
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Roti Zend (Roten Zähne)46.510747.826083398
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Bütlasse
Bütlasse46.518547.820183193
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #14A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #14B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #14C
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #10
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
T4.
Bütlassensattel46.516517.822723020
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Vorderi Bütlasse46.525267.819853063
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Sefinafurgga46.531587.812912612
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Tschingelgrat
Tschingelspitz46.510967.840543314
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Tschingelgrat46.512937.855543108
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Ellstabhorn46.51917.865542827
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
AD/T6.
Gruppo del Doldenhorn
Doldenhorn46.46888888888897.734722222222223638
  • Doldenhorn (3638m46.46888888888897.73472222222222)
  • Doldenhorn, P.3480 (3480m46.470797.74122)
  • Klein Doldenhorn (Kleindoldenhorn) (3475m46.469927.72722)
  • P.3525 (3525m46.465187.73474)
  • Doldenstock (3221m46.4737.7216)
One of the most interesting peaks in Bernese Alps. North side is completely glaciated while south side is almost glacier free with wild rock faces. Galletgrat (NE) is one of the best firn ridges and north face respectively one of the better ice faces in Bernese Alps. South Ridge (G7/D, IV) not recommended due to rock fall.
1862-06-30
Doldenhorn, ,
First ascent		E. von Fellenberg, A. Roth, C. Lauener, J. Bischoff, K. Blatter, G. Reicher, two porters
1862-06-30
Doldenhorn, NW face,
First ascent		NW face: E. von Fellenberg, A. Roth, C. Lauener, J. Bischoff, K. Blatter, G. Reicher & two porters
1899-07-19
Doldenhorn, Galletgrat,
First ascent		Galletgrat: J.Gallet, J.Kalbermatten, A.Müller
1923-08-05
Doldenhorn, East Ridge,
First ascent		East Ridge: E. Bitrke & O. Bitrke
1954-07-08
Doldenhorn, Nordwand,
First ascent		Nordwand: M. Bachmann & S. Plietz
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #15
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #4
  • Schweiz extrem WEST 2010 #14
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
North side
Completely glaciated face above Oeschinensee by Kandersteg. Both Galletgrat and Nordwand are classic routes.
Galletgrat (NNW ridge, Arête Gallet). Ice, E3 AD+/III AD+/G5; III/AD/45°, 3b/III/II,A0; 5-6h from Fründen hut in good conditions and if there's ready spur When blank ice or no spur 7-8h (G6) . 1899-07-19First ascentJ.Gallet, J.Kalbermatten, A.Müller, 1899-07-19.
Classic. One of the finest ice routes in Bernese Alps.
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #15
  • Munter 1995 #410
  • Hochtouren Westalpen #4
Nordwand (North Face). Ice, III D+/G7; 50-55°; 600m/1100m 8-10h from Fründen hut. 1954-07-08First ascentM. Bachmann & S. Plietz, 1954-07-08.
Classic. Classic ice face, relatively popular.
  • Munter #412
East ridge
East Ridge (Ostgrat). G8/D+; V-; 8-10h. 1923-08-05First ascentE. Bitrke & O. Bitrke, 1923-08-05.
From Fründenjoch (2987,) to P3411 and point where the ridge joins with Galletgrat. Steep rock on the lower part, corniced firn ridge in the upper.
  • Munter #411
NW side
NW face. II PD/G2-3; 45°; 1700m, 5-6h. 1862-06-30First ascentE. von Fellenberg, A. Roth, C. Lauener, J. Bischoff, K. Blatter, G. Reicher & two porters, 1862-06-30.
  • Munter #409
Doldenhorn, P.348046.470797.741223480
Point on East ridge where Galletgrat drops towards north.
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Klein Doldenhorn (Kleindoldenhorn)46.469927.727223475
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Innere Fisistock46.469537.690642787
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
F/T5.
Üssere Fisistock46.473587.704462947
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
T4.
Fründenjoch46.472267.749182984
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
PD/T6.
P.352546.465187.734743525
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Doldenstock46.4737.72163221
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Bibergpass46.472117.712432848
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Gruppo Fedderrothorn-Torrenthorn
Ferdenrothorn
Ferdenrothorn46.408427.707283180
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #9
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T4.
Torrenthorn46.377427.67892998
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #8
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T2.
Gitzifurggu46.413927.704622912
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Ferdenpass46.395227.695392824
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Majinghorn46.391077.689363054
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T4.
Mauerhorn46.387037.701622944
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Schwarzhorn46.391167.710692931
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Restirothorn46.382367.702772969
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
PD-.
Kleines Torrenthorn46.379877.687082996
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Schafberg46.370157.6692848
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Loicherspitza
Restipass46.37927.706722626
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Loicherspitza46.373417.704872843
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Niwen46.361167.712512769
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Faldumpass46.367447.706382640
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Niwenpass46.363107.710162606
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Faldumrothorn46.365767.707332832
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi

Gruppo Balmhorn-Torrenthorn

Gruppo del Balmhorn
Rinderhorn46.41361111111117.654166666666673448
  • Rinderhorn (3448m46.41361111111117.65416666666667)
  • Chli Rinderhorn (3003m46.42577.6431)
Located in Balmhorn group, to the east of Gemmipass and west of Balmhorn (connected to it with Zackengrat). Covered in firn towards north (Kandersteg) while south face facing Leukerbad is steep and rocky.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
East Spur
East Spur (Ostgrat). G5-6; III+; 2-3h from Zuckenpass.
Stone fall danger.
  • Munter #282
North side
North face. G7-8; 8h from Hotel Schwarenbach.
  • Munter #283
North ridge. II PD/G2; 4,5h.
Normal route. From Ridersattel between Rinderhorn and Klein Rinderhorn (3003m). Also ski route.
  • Munter #280
Chli Rinderhorn46.42577.64313003
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
PD/T6.
Gemmipass46.396277.611422269
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Rindersattel46.423917.647372909
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Plattenhörner46.403177.633992855
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.282946.404617.640422829
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.284546.402117.631752845
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.263946.400097.625122639
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Alte Gemmi46.404567.641482723
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Balmhorn46.4257.693611111111113698
Westernmost of the big peaks in Berner Alps. The peak has four main ridges, North and SE ridges joining at the summit at (N)West and SW ridges joining at P.3667. For climbers the peak offers three popular ridges and steep icy north face. Of the ridges, Gitzigrat (SE) is the most difficult and probably also the most famous climb while Zackengrat (SW) provides the easiest ascent. Balmhorn is connected to Altels (3629m) with a sharp firn ridge, which is not too difficult to cross (most commonly starting from Balmhorn).
1864-07-21
Balmhorn, ,
First ascent		F. Walker, H. Walker, L. Walker, M. Anderegg, J. Anderegg
1864-07-21
Balmhorn, Zackengrat,
First ascent		Zackengrat: F. Walker, H. Walker, L. Walker, M. Anderegg, J. Anderegg
1886-07-29
Balmhorn, Gitzigrat,
First ascent		Gitzigrat: H. Dilbi, L. Liechti, C. Hari, H, Hari
1901-07-12
Balmhorn, Wildelisigengrat,
First ascent		Wildelisigengrat: H. Biehly, H. Seiler, A. Miller sr., A. Miller jr.
1937-07-14
Balmhorn, Nordflanke,
First ascent		Nordflanke: P. Desaules & E. Seiler
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #7
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #8
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #7
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #7A
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #3
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #7
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Nordflanke (North face)
Left-hand border is formed by Wildelisigrat and right hand side is north face of Altels (easier alternative to Balmhorn north face).
Nordflanke (North face). Ice, G7/D-; avg. 45°; 1750m, 8-9h from Balmhorn hut. 1937-07-14First ascentP. Desaules & E. Seiler, 1937-07-14.
Very nice ice route.
  • Munter #305
Wildelisigengrat (NE Ridge). Firn, E4 AD/G4-5; 3a/III, 40°; 7h from Balmhorn hut. 1901-07-12First ascentH. Biehly, H. Seiler, A. Miller sr., A. Miller jr., 1901-07-12.
Classic and popular route, poor rock.
  • Munter 1995 #303
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #7
Gitzigrat (SE Ridge)
Gitzigrat (SE Ridge). G5/III AD+/E4 AD+; III+/4b, 50°; 6-7h from Gitzifurgge. 1886-07-29First ascentH. Dilbi, L. Liechti, C. Hari, H, Hari, 1886-07-29.
Classic. Interesting and popular climb.
  • Munter 1995 #304
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #8
Zackengrat (SW Ridge)
Zackengrat (SW Ridge). G2-3/II PD; 40°, I; 1600m, 5-6h. 1864-07-21First ascentF. Walker, H. Walker, L. Walker, M. Anderegg, J. Anderegg, 1864-07-21.
Normal route. From Hotel Schwarenbach via Zackenpass (3036m).
  • Westalpen I #3
  • Munter 1995 #301
Balmhorn Westgipfel (P.3667)46.424727.690243557
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
PD/T4.
P.340246.430187.696533402
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.342046.420287.697783420
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.332646.418847.680873326
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.321146.415777.675063211
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Altels46.4288897.6783333629
Located to NW of Balmhorn and connected to it by sharp firn ridge, most commonly climbed from Balmhorn to Altels.
1874-07-08
Altels, ,
First ascent		H. Lohnert, F. Wyss-Wyss, A. von Steiger, F. Ogi, H. Hari
1874-07-08
Altels, South ridge,
First ascent		South ridge: H. Lohnert, F. Wyss-Wyss, A. von Steiger, F. Ogi & H. Hari
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #7
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
South ridge
South ridge. Firn, G3/AD-; I; 1,5-2h. 1874-07-08First ascentH. Lohnert, F. Wyss-Wyss, A. von Steiger, F. Ogi & H. Hari, 1874-07-08.
firn ridge connecting Altels to Balmhorn. possible in both directions, but more commonly climbed from Balmhorn to Altels.
  • Munter 1995 #302
Punkt 3528 E zum Balmhorn46.426427.685643528
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.3564 46.427557.681383564
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.341846.429067.673203418
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
P.333246.433797.677123332
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Obers Tatelishore46.442197.671702962
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi

Gruppo Gletscherhorn-Hockenhorn

Gruppo Gletscherhorn-Mittaghorn
Kranzberg
Kranzberg (Kranzberg Nordgipfel)46.522227.981113742
  • Munter 1995 #1075
  • Munter 1995 #1076
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Kranzberg Südgipfel 46.514577.992163666
  • Munter 1995 #1078
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2.
Gletscherhorn
Ebneflüh (Ebnefluh, Ebeni Flue)46.5079687.9535983962
Sepated from slightly higher Gletscherhorn by Gletscherjoch. West summit of Abneflüh forms the easten end of Lauterbrunner Wall. West summit itself rises barely from the ridge connecting the two summits.
1868-08-27
Ebneflüh, ,
First ascent		Thomas Lioyd Murray Browne, Peter Bohren, Peter Schlegel
1868-08-27
Ebneflüh, SW Slope,
First ascent		SW Slope: Thomas Lioyd Murray Browne, Peter Bohren & Peter Schlegel
1922-08-18
Ebneflüh, Nordwestgrat,
First ascent		Nordwestgrat: O. Hug & H. Lauper
1924-07-16
Ebneflüh, Nordgrat,
First ascent		Nordgrat: J. Farrar, F. Wills, P. Almer sr., P. Almer j. & P. Boss
1937-01-01
Ebneflüh, Aschenbrenner-Mariner,
First ascent		Aschenbrenner-Mariner: Peter Aschenbrenner & Wastl Mariner
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #36
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #36A
  • Munter 1995 #645
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
North face
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. Classic 900m high and 600m wide north face above Rottalgletscher which is often climbed, objectively safe and often in good condition. North face of west summit is substantially rockier. That aside the face is of uniform steepness (avg. 52 degrees) and lacks distinct features, therefore separating different routes doesn't really make much sense.
Nordgrat. D/G6; III, 55°; 7-8h from Rottalhütte. 1924-07-16First ascentJ. Farrar, F. Wills, P. Almer sr., P. Almer j. & P. Boss, 1924-07-16.
  • Munter 1995 #652
  • SAC Jungfrau #122.5
Aschenbrenner-Mariner (North Face). Ice, IV TD-/G7-8; 50-55°, avg. 52°; 750m, 4-6h. 1937-01-01First ascentPeter Aschenbrenner & Wastl Mariner, 1937.
Fine ice route, if cornices not present, objectively safe. The face is 600m wide with constant angle, route line as conditions suggest.
  • Munter 1995 #653
  • Vanis #39
  • Berner Alpen 4 #172
  • SAC Jungfrau #122.4
Nordwestgrat (Roti flue). G7/TD; III; 8h from Rottalhütte. 1922-08-18First ascentO. Hug & H. Lauper, 1922-08-18.
  • Munter 1995 #651
  • SAC Jungfrau #122.3
SW side
SW Slope. G2/PD; 30°; 3h from Hollandiahütte. 1868-08-27First ascentThomas Lioyd Murray Browne, Peter Bohren & Peter Schlegel, 1868-08-27.
Normal route. From Lötschen hut via SW Slope and in upper part along SE Ridge. Crevasses. Popular ski mountaineering route during winter.
  • Munter 1995 #646, #647
  • SAC Jungfrau #122.1
Ebneflüh, Westgipfel46.507417.941333811
  • Munter 1995 #648
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2.
P.394646.505937.957523946
  • Munter 1995 #650
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2.
P.392446.504577.959993924
  • Munter 1995 #650
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2.
P.371646.498887.964263716
  • Munter 1995 #650
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G4.
Äbeni Flue-joch46.501287.933473698
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.388946.511867.962013889
  • Munter 1995 #660
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G3-4.
P.379446.509937.971533794
  • Munter 1995 #661
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G5.
Gletscherjoch46.509927.958123764
  • Munter 1995 #656
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2.
Gletscherhorn46.51277777777787.967777777777783983
  • Gletscherhorn (3983m46.51277777777787.96777777777778)
  • P.3889 (3889m46.511867.96201)
  • P.3794 (3794m46.509937.97153)
The highest peak of Gletscherhorn-Blümlisalp-Balmhorn group. Not particularly famous due to missing 4000m mark by 17 meters and being located close to a bit higher and much more famous Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger. Of the three main ridges, NE and SW ridges are easy while SE ridge is more difficult. The standout feature of the peak is its 1000m north face, reportedly comparable to Matterhorn north face.
1867-08-15
Gletscherhorn, ,
First ascent		James John Hornby, Christian Lauener
1867-08-15
Gletscherhorn, WSW Ridge,
First ascent		WSW Ridge: James John Hornby & Christian Lauener
1897-07-26
Gletscherhorn, NE Ridge,
First ascent		NE Ridge: Mme Gallet, M. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten & C. Kaufmann
1919-07-09
Gletscherhorn, SE Ridge,
First ascent		SE Ridge: R. Hodel, H. Lamper & H. Rey
1931-09-10
Gletscherhorn, Welzenbach,
First ascent		Welzenbach: Willo Welzenbach, A. Drexel, H. Rudy & E. Schulze
1945-07-16
Gletscherhorn, Reiss-Etter-Jaun,
First ascent		Reiss-Etter-Jaun: E. Reiss, H. Etter & F. Jaun
1945-08-29
Gletscherhorn, North face Rib,
First ascent		North face Rib: E. Reiss & H. Etter
1972-06-01
Gletscherhorn, Carrington-Rouse,
First ascent		Carrington-Rouse: Rab Carrington & Alan Rouse
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #35
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #35B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #35C
  • Munter 1995 #658
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
North face (Nordwestwand)
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. 1000m north face, reportedly comparable to Matterhorn north face.
Welzenbach (Nordwestwand). Ice, ED; 55-60°, III; 1050m, 10-16h. 1931-09-10First ascentWillo Welzenbach, A. Drexel, H. Rudy & E. Schulze, 1931-09-10.
Famous and serious route in the northern part of the face. Not climbed anymore. Over 1000m high mixed route.
  • SAC Jungfrau #124.3
Reiss-Etter-Jaun (Nordwestwand). Mixed/ice, TD+/ED1/G11-12; 55°, V; 10-12h from Rottal hut. 1945-07-16First ascentE. Reiss, H. Etter & F. Jaun, 1945-07-16.
Famous and serious. More direct line than the Welzenbach route. Over 1000m high mixed route. Rock and ice fall danger, more dangerous than Grosshorn Nordwand.
  • Munter 1995 #662
Carrington-Rouse. Mixed/ice, ED2. 1972-06-01First ascentRab Carrington & Alan Rouse, 1972-06.
North face Rib (Nordwandrippe zu P3889). Mixed/ice, TD; 12,5h. 1945-08-29First ascentE. Reiss & H. Etter, 1945-08-29.
  • SAC Jungfrau #124.2
NE side
NE Ridge. G4/AD; III-; 2h from Lauitor. 1897-07-26First ascentMme Gallet, M. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten & C. Kaufmann, 1897-07-26.
  • Munter 1995 #659
South side
SE Ridge. G5/D-; IV-; 6h from Konkordia hut, somewhat shorter from Lötschen hut. 1919-07-09First ascentR. Hodel, H. Lamper & H. Rey, 1919-07-09.
  • Munter 1995 #661
WSW Ridge (Westgrat). G3-4/PD; II; 2h from Gletscherjoch. 1867-08-15First ascentJames John Hornby & Christian Lauener, 1867-08-15.
Normal route. D in SAC guidebook.
  • Munter 1995 #660
  • SAC Jungfrau #124.1
Mittaghorn
Wildhoren46.503347.921163048
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Mittaghorn46.4982117.9325983895
1878-08-19
Mittaghorn, ,
First ascent		Charles Montadon, A. Ringier, Adolf Rubin
1878-08-19
Mittaghorn, SE ridge,
First ascent		SE ridge: Charles Montadon, A. Ringier & Adolf Rubin
1897-07-27
Mittaghorn, Nordgrat,
First ascent		Nordgrat: J. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten & C. Kaufmann
1977-07-02
Mittaghorn, Nordwand,
First ascent		Nordwand: Pietro Zifiropulo & Hannes Stähli
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #32E
  • Munter 1995 #635
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
North face
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. NW face of main summit is slightly easier than north face of West summit.
Nordgrat. Rock/firn, D/G5; IV; 2h from Äbeni Fluejoch, 4-4,5h. 1897-07-27First ascentJ. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten & C. Kaufmann, 1897-07-27.
  • Munter 1995 #639
  • SAC Jungfrau #116.7
Nordwand (North face of West summit). ED1; V; 750m, 9-12h from Schmadrihütte. 1977-07-02First ascentPietro Zifiropulo & Hannes Stähli, 1977-07-02.
  • SAC Jungfrau #116.5
SE ridge
SE ridge (Anungrat). PD/G2-3; 2,5h from Lötschenhütte. 1878-08-19First ascentCharles Montadon, A. Ringier & Adolf Rubin, 1878-08-19.
Normal route. Via Lötschenlücke (3164m).
  • Munter 1995 #636
  • SAC Jungfrau #116.1
P.3835 46.497307.927603835
  • Munter 1995 #638
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G3-4.
P.375446.495047.923443754
  • Munter 1995 #638
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G3-4.
P.371946.493017.924733719
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.3880 (Mittaghorn Südgipfel)46.495797.932993880
  • Munter 1995 #636
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD/G2-3.
Lötschenlücke46.475017.963413158
Col due north of Sattelhorn separating Lötschental and Lötschengletscher in the west from Grosser Aletschgletcher in the east. Hllandiahütte (3240m) is located somewhat norrth of the pass at the foot of Anungrat.
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #32A
  • Munter 1995 #575
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Anujoch46.490137.937143629
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #32E
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Anuschnubel46.479647.949423589
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #32
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Anungrat46.4857.939723714
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #32B
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Grosshorn
Mittagjoch46.491757.921173648
  • Munter 1995 #569
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Brunnenhoren46.493077.898072745
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Jegischubel46.468937.911483124
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #31A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #31B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #31C
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
T5.
Grosshorn Westgipfel46.487097.905853671
  • Munter 1995 #627
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
G3.
Grossjoch46.488647.913153560
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Grosshorn46.4870027.9100533754
The peaks three main ridges, West ridge from Schmadrihoch, North ridge from Grossjoch and long south ridge from Zem Hindri Ligg. Parade side of Grosshorn is 1200m north face that counts among the most difficult faces in Bernese Alps.
1885-08-12
Grosshorn, ,
First ascent		E. Burckhardt, O. Schifferdecker, J. Rubin, P. Schlegel, K. Schlunegger
1885-08-12
Grosshorn, South Ridge,
First ascent		South Ridge: E. Burckhardt, O. Schifferdecker, J. Rubin, P. Schlegel & K. Schlunegger
1921-07-26
Grosshorn, Lauper Route,
First ascent		Lauper Route: H. Lauper & M. Liniger
1932-07-27
Grosshorn, Welzenbach,
First ascent		Welzenbach: A. Drexel, H. Rudy, E. Schulze & Willo Welzenbach
1934-07-01
Grosshorn, Feuz - von Almen,
First ascent		Feuz - von Almen: Feuz, von Almen
2000-05-01
Grosshorn, Via Neerlandica,
First ascent		Via Neerlandica: Haegen, Schif
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #31
  • Munter 1995 #625
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
North face
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. North face consists of two faces separated by NW Ridge; North Face to the left of the ridge and NW Face to the right. NW Face appears rocky, but there's a hidden couloir through steep upper section.
Lauper Route (West Summit N Face Rib, NW rippe des Westgipfels). Mixed, TD/G8; V (1 pitch); 1500m, 9-10h from Schmadri hut. 1921-07-26First ascentH. Lauper & M. Liniger, 1921-07-26.
Big mixed route.
  • Munter 1995 #629
  • SAC Jungfrau #114.7
Feuz - von Almen (Nordwand). TD/G10-11; average on 1000m 53°, 2 pitches 55-60°; 1200m, 10-12h. 1934-07-01First ascentFeuz, von Almen, 1934-07.
One of the biggest and most difficult ice routes of Bernese Alps, most climbed route on the face. Often blank ice, ice fall danger.
  • Munter 1995 #630
Welzenbach (Nordwand). Ice, TD+; M4/60°; 1200m, 12-15h. 1932-07-27First ascentA. Drexel, H. Rudy, E. Schulze & Willo Welzenbach, 1932-07-27.
Classic ice route.
  • SAC Jungfrau #114.9
Via Neerlandica (NW Face). Mixed, TD-; 50-80°; 9h. 2000-05-01First ascentHaegen, Schif, 2000-05.
Mixed, varied snow & ice.
East side
North Ridge via Mittaghorn (NE ridge from Grossjoch). G6; 6,5-8h.
  • Munter 1995 #631
South Ridge
South Ridge. G3/E3 AD; 7,5h from hotel Fafleralp, 6h from Lötschen hut. 1885-08-12First ascentE. Burckhardt, O. Schifferdecker, J. Rubin, P. Schlegel & K. Schlunegger, 1885-08-12.
  • Munter 1995 #626
  • SAC Jungfrau #114.1
West ridge
West ridge. TD/G7; V; 2h.
Traverse from west summit. Until wets summit AD.
  • Munter 1995 #628
  • SAC Jungfrau #114.4, #114.5
P.326246.477977.91583262
  • Munter 1995 #626
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
E3 AD-/G3.
P.356846.482777.91323568
  • Munter 1995 #626
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
E3 AD-/G3.
Zem Hindri Ligg46.472327.912513009
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn
Wärmietenhoren46.48887.883812849
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Schmadrijoch46.482367.896593337
  • Munter 1995 #565
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
G3.
Breithornjoch46.482357.888763338
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Zuckerstock46.48347.890893384
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn (Breithorn)46.47861111111117.876666666666673780
  • Lauterbrunnen Breithorn (Breithorn) (3780m46.47861111111117.87666666666667)
  • Zuckerstock (3384m46.48347.89089)
  • Kleines Breithorn (3656m46.475767.87513)
Located on Lauterbrunner wall between Tschingelhorn and Grosshorn. Not to mix up with 4000m peak in Wallis and Kötschentaler Breithorn located on the opposite side of Lätchental in Bietschhorn group. South ridge is the longest and most prominent of three ridges.
1865-07-31
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn, ,
First ascent		E. von Fellenberg, J. Bischoff, P. Egger, P. Infibnit, P. Michel
1865-07-31
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn, West ridge,
First ascent		West ridge: E. von Fellenberg, J. Bischoff, P. Egger, P. Infibnit & P. Michel
1896-08-02
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn, ONO Grat,
First ascent		ONO Grat: J. Gallet, G. Kalbermatten, J. Kalbermatten & J. Rubin
1924-08-12
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn, Chervetrippe,
First ascent		Chervetrippe: D. Chervet & R. Richardet
1932-09-14
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn, North face original,
First ascent		North face original: E. Schulze & Willo Welzenbach
  • Munter 1995 #615
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
North face
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. 1200m rock and ice wall. Above Breithorngletscher.
North face original. ED1; 60°; 1050m, 10-14h. 1932-09-14First ascentE. Schulze & Willo Welzenbach, 1932-09-14.
  • SAC Jungfrau #110.3
ONO Grat. G5-6/D; III+; 4-5h from Schmadrijoch (3337m), 10-12h from hut. 1896-08-02First ascentJ. Gallet, G. Kalbermatten, J. Kalbermatten & J. Rubin, 1896-08-02.
  • Munter 1995 #617
  • SAC Jungfrau #110.5
Chervetrippe (Östliche Nordwandrippe, Eastern rib). G7/D+; IV; 4,5h, approach 3,5h. 1924-08-12First ascentD. Chervet & R. Richardet, 1924-08-12.
  • Munter 1995 #619
  • SAC Jungfrau #110.4
South ridge
South ridge. D+/G6; III; 12h from fafleralp.
  • Munter 1995 #618
  • SAC Jungfrau #110.7
West ridge
West ridge. III AD+/G4; 3b/III-, 30°; 600/1000m, 2-3h from Wetterlücke, 5-6h from Mutthornhütte. 1865-07-31First ascentE. von Fellenberg, J. Bischoff, P. Egger, P. Infibnit & P. Michel, 1865-07-31.
Normal route. Via Wetterlücke.
  • Munter 1995 #616
  • SAC Jungfrau #110.1
Burstspitza46.463027.878673184
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #30
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
PD+.
Kleines Breithorn46.475767.875133656
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Burstsattel46.468347.876373165
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Gruppo dell'Hockenhorn
Hockenhorn
Märbiglücke46.435847.760672945
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Hockenhorn46.42833333333337.744166666666673293
  • Hockenhorn (3293m46.42833333333337.74416666666667)
  • Kleinhockenhorn (3162m46.425657.74082)
Very popular peak and also recommended ski touring ascent from Lauchenalp. Often climbed in combination with Petersgrat Traverse from Lötschenpasshütte to Mutthornhütte (G5, III, 9-10h). very easy both from SW (Lötschenpass) and South (Kummenalps). Somewhat more difficult, but still non-technical along NW ridge from Gfällalp.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #8A
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #9
  • Munter 1995 #580
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
NW ridge
NW ridge. PD/G2-3; II; 3h.
  • Munter 1995 #584
Kleinhockenhorn46.425657.740823162
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #8B
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Lötschepass46.414437.713322676
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Birghorn
Tennenbachhorn46.435267.786793013
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Sackhorn46.442517.773333204
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #10
  • Munter 1995 #588
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
G1-2.
Birghorn46.446947.780653243
  • Munter 1995 #595
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
G1-2.
Elwerstätsch46.452857.789083208
  • Munter 1995 #592
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Birgsattel46.457687.797253113
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Tschingelhorn - Petersgrat
Mutthorn46.488677.823223035
  • Munter 1995 #602
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Tschingelhorn46.47861111111117.848611111111113562
  • Tschingelhorn (3562m46.47861111111117.84861111111111)
  • Chly Tschingelhorn (Kleines Tschingelhorn) (3495m46.477897.84351)
NW and North aspects of the peak have few short mostly icy routes in AD-D range.
1865-09-06
Tschingelhorn, ,
First ascent		W. Hawker, H. Feuz, C. Lauener, U. Lauener
1865-09-06
Tschingelhorn, South face,
First ascent		South face: W. Hawker, H. Feuz, C. Lauener & U. Lauener
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #11
  • Munter 1995 #605
  • Munter 1995 #606
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
NW face
Nordwestflanke. D+/G5-6; 300m, 3-4h.
  • Munter 1995 #609
  • SAC Jungfrau #106.3
South face
South face. G2-3/II AD-; 40°, II; 250/700m, 3,5h. 1865-09-06First ascentW. Hawker, H. Feuz, C. Lauener & U. Lauener, 1865-09-06.
Via col between Tschingelhörner.
  • Munter 1995 #607
  • SAC Jungfrau #106.1
Traverse of Tschingelhörner
Traverse of Tschingelhörner. G3-4/E3; III; 3,5h.
Starting from Chly Tschingelhorn West ridge.
  • Munter 1995 #610
  • SAC Jungfrau #105.3,#106.1
Chly Tschingelhorn (Kleines Tschingelhorn)46.477897.843513495
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #11
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Wetterlücke46.477817.858173169
  • Munter 1995 #556
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
G1.
Wätterhoren46.48627.850033233
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Chanzel46.492317.856193002
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
P.327246.475477.839943272
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
P.321446.473977.836013214
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
P.320646.471797.830373206
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
P.316346.469347.826523163
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
P.320246.461827.808873202
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Tellispitza46.451407.816823081
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren
Chrindelspitza46.452937.844343017
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1248 - Mürren

Aletschhorn-Bietschhorn group

Gruppo dell'Aletschhorn

Dreieckhorn
Dreieckhorn46.478068.023811
Main peak on the easternmost cluster of peak in Bietschhorn-Aletschhorn chain. The peak is separetd from Aletschhorn in the west by Aletschjoch (3621).
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #29
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #29A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #29B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #29C
  • Munter 1995 #994
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G2.
Olmenhorn46.453728.052163314
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
PD/T5+.
Kleines Dreieckhorn46.468888.03433639
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Aletschhorn
Aletschhorn46.4657.993888888888894193
  • Aletschhorn (4193m46.4657.99388888888889)
  • Aletschhorn, NE summit (P.4087) (4087m46.468867.99409)
  • Kleines Aletschhorn (3747m46.46757.97722)
  • P.4071 (4071m46.466697.98981)
  • P.3947 (3947m46.46137.99627)
The highest peak in Bietschhorn-Aletschhorn chain and the second highest mountain in Bernese Alps. Surrounded by Aletschhorngletscher, the longest glacier in the Alps. 400m or more higher than any of the surrounding peaks. The peak has three main ridges, West towards Sattelhorn, NE towards Dreieckhorn and South towards Geisshorn. Normal route is from Oberaletschhutte over SW ridge. Ice routes on the north face, particularly Hasler-rib and Nordflanke are classic ice routes.
1900-01-01
Aletschhorn, ,
Event		 E. Nugee, M. Cababem Rudolf Kaufman & Peter Schlegel
1859-06-18
Aletschhorn, ,
First ascent		Francis Fox Tuckett, Johann Joseph Bennen, Peter Bohren, V. Tairraz
1859-06-18
Aletschhorn, SE face and NE ridge,
First ascent		SE face and NE ridge: F. Tuckett. J. Brennen, P. Bohren & V. Tiarraz
1862-07-15
Aletschhorn, SE ridge,
First ascent		SE ridge: E. Eggel von Blatten, M. Jossen & E. Ruppen
1868-08-26
Aletschhorn, NE ridge (over Dreieckhorn),
First ascent		NE ridge (over Dreieckhorn): T.L. Browne, P. Bohren & P. Schlegel
1879-08-06
Aletschhorn, SW rib,
First ascent		SW rib: L. Liechti, A. Kummer & a porter
1894-07-05
Aletschhorn, Westnordwestgrat,
First ascent		Westnordwestgrat: W. Coolidge, W. Larden, C. Almer & R. Almer jr.
1902-01-01
Aletschhorn, Hasler Rib,
First ascent		Hasler Rib: G.A. Hasler & party (earlier ascent of rib only)
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #27
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #34
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #20
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #21
  • Moran 2007 #8
  • Munter 1995 #948
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
North face
4km wide and 19000m high north face above Aletschfirn. Several grandes courses, the safest and most popular of them being Hasler-rib.
Hasler Rib (NE Spur). Ice, AD+/G5-6; 50°, II; 700m to NE Ridge, further 500m to summit. 7-8h from Lötschen hut, 0,75h longer from Konkordia hut. 1902-01-01First ascentG.A. Hasler & party (earlier ascent of rib only), 1902.
Classic. Classic ice route on the left side of north face leading to Point 3718 on NE Ridge. Normal route from Lötschen & Konkordia huts, the most difficult of normal routes. Objectively safe.
  • Munter 1995 #956
  • Moran 9g
  • Westalpen I #18
Nordflanke (North Face). Ice, D/TD/G7; 45-50 (much steeper crux)°; 1100m, 5-8h. Approach 1h from Hollandia hut. 1883-08-31First ascentE. Nugee, M. Cababem Rudolf Kaufman & Peter Schlegel, 1883-08-31.
Classic. One of the most interesting ice routes in Bernese Alps. The crux is a 10m ice wall (~70°) at 3800m.
  • Munter 1995 #959
NE side
NE ridge (over Dreieckhorn). PD+; 1780m, 7,5-9h. 1868-08-26First ascentT.L. Browne, P. Bohren & P. Schlegel, 1868-08-26.
  • Moran 9b
SE side
SE face and NE ridge. II PD/PD+/G3; 40°, I-II on the final ridge; 1190m, 4-5h. 1859-06-18First ascentF. Tuckett. J. Brennen, P. Bohren & V. Tiarraz, 1859-06-18.
Normal route. Easiest and shortest route.
  • Munter 1995 #953
  • Moran 9a
South side
SE ridge. AD-/G4-5; II; 1600m, 7-8h. 1862-07-15First ascentE. Eggel von Blatten, M. Jossen & E. Ruppen, 1862-07-15.
  • Munter 1995 #952
  • Moran 9d
SW rib (Südwestgrat). Mixed, AD-/G4; II; 1700m, 7-8h. 1879-08-06First ascentL. Liechti, A. Kummer & a porter, 1879-08-06.
  • Munter 1995 #949
  • Moran 9c
  • Westalpen I #21
NW side
Westnordwestgrat (WNW Ridge). AD+/D/G5; III; 6-8h from Oberaletsch hut. 1894-07-05First ascentW. Coolidge, W. Larden, C. Almer & R. Almer jr., 1894-07-05.
  • Munter 1995 #950
  • Moran 9e
Aletschjoch46.476788.00853623
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Mittelaletschlücke46.457997.997633698
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Aletschhorn, NE summit (P.4087)46.468867.994094087
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Kleines Aletschhorn46.46757.977223747
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #27B
  • Munter 1995 #945
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
P.407146.466697.989814071
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
P.394746.46137.996273947
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Sattelhorn46.468337.965563745
1900-01-01
Event
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #27A
  • Munter 1995 #940
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G4.
Vorderes Geisshorn46.451578.000873634
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Sattellicka (Sattellücke)46.465597.958683375
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
G2.
Geisshorn
Geisshorn46.4410288.0056943740
  • Munter 1995 #965
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
II F.
Grosses Fusshorn (Gross Fusshorn)46.43057.997733627
Besides Geisshorn the other main peak on the ridge system south of Aletschhorn. SSW ridge is the most popular route with several variations. Main attraction of the peak is SSE ridge with 13 dramatic towers.
1894-01-01
Grosses Fusshorn, ,
First ascent		Miss J. Hopkinson, C. Hopkinson
1894-01-01
Grosses Fusshorn, WSW ridge and SW flank,
First ascent		WSW ridge and SW flank: Miss J. Hopkinson & C. Hopkinson
1898-09-02
Grosses Fusshorn, South ridge,
First ascent		South ridge: G. Young & C. Ruppen
1933-01-01
Grosses Fusshorn, Fusshörner traverse,
First ascent		Fusshörner traverse: Josef Imseng & Dr. Andras Seiler
1949-04-16
Grosses Fusshorn, WSW ridge integral,
First ascent		WSW ridge integral: J. Kuhn & H. Rothlisberger
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #28B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #28C
  • Hoch Hinaus #25
  • Munter 1995 #976
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
SW side
WSW ridge and SW flank. PD/G3; 4-5h. 1894-01-01First ascentMiss J. Hopkinson & C. Hopkinson, 1894.
  • Munter 1995 #977
WSW ridge integral. IV AD+/G4-5; 4b/IV; 430m, 5-6h. 1949-04-16First ascentJ. Kuhn & H. Rothlisberger, 1949-04-16.
  • Munter 1995 #978
South ridge. AD; III; 5-6h. 1898-09-02First ascentG. Young & C. Ruppen, 1898-09-02.
Fusshörner traverse
Fusshörner traverse. 5c; 14-18h. 1933-01-01First ascentJosef Imseng & Dr. Andras Seiler, 1933.
Complete traverse of Gross Fusshorn south ridge over all Fusshörner towers.
Fusshörner46.427487.998783494
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.1
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.2
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.3
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.4
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.5
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Fusshorn XII3179
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.1
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.2
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Fusshorn XI3155
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.3
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Fusshorn X46.419978.002293264
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.4
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Fusshorn VII46.422638.001023380
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #6.5
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Zehnbächenhorn46.439078.028263386
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Rotstock46.435288.001943699
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #28
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #28A
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #28D
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
II AD.
Zenbächenlicke46.440528.023523289
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1269 - Aletschgletscher
Geisslücke46.448348.003363583
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Vorderes Zehnbächenhorn46.435958.035573290
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Rothorn46.43488.036663271
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Schinhorn
Schinhorn46.45166666666677.946666666666673797
  • Schinhorn (3797m46.45166666666677.94666666666667)
  • Distlighorn (3716m46.455477.94888)
1900-01-01
Event
  • Munter 1995 #910
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
PD.
Distlighorn46.455477.948883716
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Nördliches Wysshorn46.446017.953353625
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Wysshorn46.443257.954333546
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Südliches Wysshorn46.439447.953353481
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Oberer Torberg46.435127.955513325
  • Munter 1995 #930
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
IV+.
Mittlerere Torberg46.43187.956293160
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Unterer Torberg46.428747.956393023
  • Munter 1995 #935
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Distelberg46.441047.968723127
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn

Gruppo Breithorn della Lötschental-Nesthorn

Lötschentaler Breithorn
Breitlauihorn
Breitlauihorn46.412777.88133655
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #22
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #21A
  • Munter 1995 #768
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
PD+.
Jägihorn (Südliches Jägihorn)46.400757.884193407
  • Munter 1995 #766
  • Munter 1995 #778
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G5.
Nördliches Jägihorn46.406387.883353509
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #22A
  • Munter 1995 #785
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G6.
Nördliches Jägihorn Turm II46.408037.883443509
  • Munter 1995 #790
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G6.
Breitlaujoch46.41067.871123313
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Tyfelsgrat46.414867.884703621
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Lötschentaler Breithorn
Lonzahörner (Lonzahorn West)46.423927.904223560
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #26B
  • Munter 1995 #850
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
AD-/T5+.
Lonzahorn Mittel46.424587.906073547
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Lonzahorn Ost46.425357.906783521
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Beichspitza46.432137.915223208
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
Beichpass46.434787.918713128
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #26B
  • Munter 1995 #729
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1249 - Finsteraarhorn
G1-2.
Lötschentaler Breithorn (Breithorn)46.4189447.8939443784
Not to mix up with Lauterbrunner Breithorn (located opposite site of Lötschental) or Walliser Breithorn located close to Zermatt.
1869-08-28
Lötschentaler Breithorn, ,
First ascent		J. Haberliwith, A. Weissenflub, J. Weissenflub, J. Rubin
1869-08-28
Lötschentaler Breithorn, East flank,
First ascent		East flank: J. Haberliwith, A. Weissenflub, J. Weissenflub & J. Rubin
1898-08-14
Lötschentaler Breithorn, SW ridge,
First ascent		SW ridge: G. Yeld, F. Pession & S. Pession
1922-08-29
Lötschentaler Breithorn, Blanchet ridge,
First ascent		Blanchet ridge: E. Blanchet & P. Zurbriggen
1936-06-18
Lötschentaler Breithorn, Nordwand,
First ascent		Nordwand: W. von Allmen & E. Feuz
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #23
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #23B
  • Munter 1995 #793
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
North face
Nordwand. Mixed, TD; 50-55°, IV; 700m. 1936-06-18First ascentW. von Allmen & E. Feuz, 1936-06-18.
East flank
East flank. Snow, III PD-/G3-4; 5h. 1869-08-28First ascentJ. Haberliwith, A. Weissenflub, J. Weissenflub & J. Rubin, 1869-08-28.
Normal route. Via Beichgletscher, east glank & SE ridge.
  • Munter 1995 #794
SW side
Blanchet ridge. D/G6-7; V-; 6-8h. 1922-08-29First ascentE. Blanchet & P. Zurbriggen, 1922-08-29.
  • Munter 1995 #796
SW ridge. PD+; 6-7h. 1898-08-14First ascentG. Yeld, F. Pession & S. Pession, 1898-08-14.
  • Munter 1995 #795
P.378146.418107.895753781
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
P.365946.414717.901843659
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Gletscherspitze46.424057.888313068
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Chiehorn46.411637.86143055
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Gredetshorli (Gredetshörnli)46.411747.90883646
  • Munter 1995 #802
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G2-3.
Baltschiederhörner
Baltschiederlicka46.405047.911283218
  • Munter 1995 #807
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Nördliche Baltschiederhorn (Baltschiederhörner) 46.408687.911113508
  • Munter 1995 #807
  • Munter 1995 #808
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G6.
Baltschiederturm46.404187.911003260
  • Munter 1995 #807
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Mittlere Baltschiederhorn 46.402187.909783228
  • Munter 1995 #807
  • Munter 1995 #815
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G3.
Südliche Baltschiederhorn46.400767.910393202
  • Munter 1995 #807
  • Munter 1995 #822
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G4.
Gredetschlicka46.397827.910612989
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Strahlhorn
Strahlhorn (Baltschieder Strahlhorn)46.386137.907963200
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
PD/T6.
Alpjuhorn46.367327.908573144
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
PD/T5.
Schilthorn46.360397.911633122
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
I F.
Gärsthorn46.343887.916362927
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T3.
Grüebhorn46.393277.909213192
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
F.
Rothorn46.36447.898342953
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Nesthorn
Nesthorn46.41333333333337.926111111111113821
  • Nesthorn (3821m46.41333333333337.92611111111111)
  • Nesthorn West (3719m46.412297.92050)
The highest peak in the central part of Bietschhorn-Aletschhorn chain. Located somewhat south of the main chain. There are very varied climbs ranging from modest normal route along the west ridge via mid-grade ridge climbs (NE, SE and south ridge) to very difficult north face.
1865-09-18
Nesthorn, West Ridge,
First ascent		West Ridge: B. George, H. Mortimer, Ulrich Almer & Christian Almer
1874-08-27
Nesthorn, Nordostgrat,
First ascent		Nordostgrat: R. Dumford, T. Hammond, A. Pollinger & A. Ritz
1875-09-18
Nesthorn, ,
First ascent		B. George, H. Mortimer, Ulrich Almer, Christian Almer
1895-09-04
Nesthorn, SE Ridge,
First ascent		SE Ridge: J. Hopkinson, E. Hopkinson, G. Lowe, C. Slingsby & a porter
1933-07-25
Nesthorn, Welzenbach,
First ascent		Welzenbach: Willo Welzenbach, A. Drexel & E. Schulze
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #24
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #25
  • Munter 1995 #826
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
North Face
Welzenbach (North face original route). Mixed, G11/TD/TD+; 65°, avg. 55°; 900m, 10-12h. 1933-07-25First ascentWillo Welzenbach, A. Drexel & E. Schulze, 1933-07-25.
Crux is the rock island in the central part of the face. Ice fall danger.
  • Munter 1995 #833
NNE Ridge
Nordostgrat (NE Ridge, NNE Ridge). G5-6/AD+/D-; III; 8-9h. 1874-08-27First ascentR. Dumford, T. Hammond, A. Pollinger & A. Ritz, 1874-08-27.
  • Munter 1995 #828
SE side
SE Ridge (Südgrat). G7/AD+/D+; IV and II; 12h from Belalp hotel, 10h from Oberaletsch hut. 1895-09-04First ascentJ. Hopkinson, E. Hopkinson, G. Lowe, C. Slingsby & a porter, 1895-09-04.
  • Munter 1995 #829
West side
West Ridge. Firn, G3/III PD+; 35°; 6-7h from Oberaletsch hut (2640m). 1865-09-18First ascentB. George, H. Mortimer, Ulrich Almer & Christian Almer, 1865-09-18.
Normal route. Almost purely on snow and ice. Beichgletscher - Gredetsjoch (between Lötschentaler Breithorn and Nesthorn) - Westgrat.
  • Munter 1995 #827
Nesthorn West46.412297.920503719
  • Munter 1995 #827
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
PD+/G3.
Grisighorn46.387727.939383177
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T5.
Unterbächhorn46.409407.934273620
Located at the continuation of Nesthorn SE ridge there are several peaks. The highest of the peaks is P.3620 (NW, closest to Nesthorn), further SE are P.3581 and P.3554. Which one actually is Unterbächhorn varies depending on the source.
  • Munter 1995 #837
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G2.
P.358146.406787.937423581
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
P.355446.405687.939413554
Central point of Nesthorn groups as it is a place where Gänderhorn-Grisighorn chain running generally north-south devaiates from main ridge Nesthorn-Unterbächerhorn-Hochstock-Sparrhorn.
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Gänderhorn46.396047.937593293
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T4.
Hofathorn (Schene Bärg)46.374217.940162845
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T3.
Sparrhorn46.404417.984323021
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #12
  • Munter 1995 #846
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T2.
Gredetschjoch46.412957.911893502
  • Munter 1995 #739
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
III PD+.
Hochstock46.406487.963473226
Hohstock is part of a ski area. A ski lift culminates at 3118m on its SE side.
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Grisigpass46.392687.936593175
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental

Gruppo del Bietschhorn

Bietschhorn
Bietschhorn
Bietschhorn46.391587.850763934
  • Bietschhorn (3934m46.391587.85076)
  • P.3706 (3706m46.396057.84807)
  • P.3780 (3780m46.389957.85288)
  • P.3635 (Rote Turm) (3635m46.391657.84502)
  • P.3532 (3532m46.3877.85694)
  • P.3408 (3408m46.389917.84006)
One of the most spectacular peaks in Bernese Alps. The peak has three main ridges; north, SE and West and few smaller ones towards the east and one deviating from West from the north ridge. The peak is the second highest in Bietschhorn-Aletschhorn chain. There is no easy routes to the summit. North ridge aside, all other routes on the peak are on pure rock. The most popular one is west ridge from Biestchhornhütte. Huge 900m face towards south. SE ridge is one of the big ridge routes in Bernese Alps, comparable to East ridge of Doldenhorn and NE ridge of Jungfrau.
1900-01-01
Bietschhorn, ,
Event		 L. Stephen, J. Siegen, A. Siegen & J. Ebner (from Bietschhorn hut) D. Freshfield, C. Tucker, F. von Allmen & F. Devouassoud (Baltschiederklause hut)
1859-08-13
Bietschhorn, ,
First ascent		Leslie Stephen, Anton Siegen, Johann Siegen, Joseph Ebener
1867-08-19
Bietschhorn, WSW Ridge,
First ascent		WSW Ridge: E. von Fellenberg, P. Egger, P. Michel, A. Siegen & J. Siegen
1878-07-25
Bietschhorn, East Rib,
First ascent		East Rib: C. Dent, J. Oakley Maund, J. Jaun & A. Maurer
1932-08-11
Bietschhorn, SE ridge,
First ascent		SE ridge: F. Kast & W. Stosser
1947-08-21
Bietschhorn, Tissières-de Rahm,
First ascent		Tissières-de Rahm: G. de Rahm & A. Tissières
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #20
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #21
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #20B
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #20D
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #7
  • Bietschhorn - Erbe der Alpinisten 2011
  • Hoch Hinaus #23
  • Munter 1995 #750
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
North side
North Ridge (Nordgrat). Firn/rock, III AD+/E4 AD+/G5; III or IV/4a; 5,5h from Bietsjoch (approach 1,5h from Bietschhorn hut, 2565m), 6h from Baltschiederjoch (2783m). 1859-08-13First ascentL. Stephen, J. Siegen, A. Siegen & J. Ebner (from Bietschhorn hut), 1859-08-13.1866-07-10First ascentD. Freshfield, C. Tucker, F. von Allmen & F. Devouassoud (Baltschiederklause hut), 1866-07-10.
First ascent route, pitons present.
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #20
  • Munter 1995 #752
NW Face. 7-9h.
East side
East Rib (Ostrippe, Ostsporn). Rock, G6-7/E4 D/IV AD+/D-; IV- (passages) and III/4a; 7-8h from hut. 1878-07-25First ascentC. Dent, J. Oakley Maund, J. Jaun & A. Maurer, 1878-07-25.
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #21
  • Munter 1995 #753
SE ridge. Rock, G8/TD-; V; 10-12h. 1932-08-11First ascentF. Kast & W. Stosser, 1932-08-11.
  • Munter 1995 #754
South side
Tissières-de Rahm. G8-9/D+; V-; 8h. 1947-08-21First ascentG. de Rahm & A. Tissières, 1947-08-21.
  • Munter 1995 #755
West side
WSW Ridge (Westgrat). Rock, IV AD/G5; III, 35°; 540m, 3,5h. 1867-08-19First ascentE. von Fellenberg, P. Egger, P. Michel, A. Siegen & J. Siegen, 1867-08-19.
Normal route. Mostly on rock. Most popular route on the mountain.
  • Munter 1995 #751
  • Westalpen I #7
P.370646.396057.848073706
Point on north ridge where NW ridge deviates towards Kleines Nesthorn.
  • Munter 1995 #752
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G5.
P.378046.389957.852883780
  • Munter 1995 #754
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
P.3635 (Rote Turm)46.391657.845023635
  • Munter 1995 #751
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
IV AD/G5.
P.353246.3877.856943532
Point at which side ridge deviates from Bietschhorn SE ridge and runs south towards Wivannihorn.
  • Munter 1995 #754
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
P.340846.389917.840063408
  • Munter 1995 #751
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Baltschiederjoch46.403797.85653178
  • Munter 1995 #725
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G1-2.
Bietsjoch46.388387.825623174
  • Munter 1995 #720
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G1-2.
Shafbärg46.390777.82973240
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T3.
Kleines Nesthorn46.396767.840583336
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #19D
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T5.
Stockhorn (Baltschieder Stockhorn)46.38237.877043212
End point of Bietschhorn SE ridge.
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #5.1
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #5.2
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #5.3
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #5.4
  • Munter 1995 #760
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G2/T2.
Schwarzhorn46.383447.813773126
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Tieregghorn
Tieregghorn46.373167.859323073
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Tiereggpass46.379567.857753046
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Chrütighorn (Krutighorn)46.357797.853843020
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Wiwannijoch46.355837.854292852
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Wiwannihorn46.354917.85583001
Located at the side ridge running south from Bietschhorn and lovated above the city of Visp. One of the more popular rock climbing venues.
  • Kletterführer Wiwanni 2015
  • Plaisir West 2012 #32
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
II PD-.
Augstkummenhorn (Gross Öugstchummuhorn)46.350247.850772924
  • Plaisir West 2012 #32
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Wilerhorn
Hogleifa
Hogleifa46.370637.793183278
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
T5.
Wannihorn46.363037.791763117
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
AD-.
Christehorn46.348087.784632788
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Wilerhorn
Jegihorn46.365087.817673077
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #4.1
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #4.2
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Grosshorn46.358177.816082996
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #4.1
  • Best of Keepwild! 2013 #4.3
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Schwarzhorn46.347137.815292659
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Wilerjoch46.38247.813063069
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
Wilerhorn46.378647.810623307
The main peak at the westernmost end of Bietschhorn-Aletschhorn chain.
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #19C
  • Munter 1995 #745
  • Swisstopo - 42 - Oberwallis
  • Swisstopo - 264 - Jungfrau
  • Swisstopo - 1268 - Lötschental
G2.

Catena Wildhorn-Wildstrubel

Gruppo Wildstrubel-Lohner

Gruppo Wildstrubel
Mont Bonvin
Rawilpass46.383067.441972429
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
Wisshore (Weisshorn)46.383557.473232948
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
T3.
Tiernergsattel46.387387.467582654
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
Mont Bonvin46.364387.507762995
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
T3.
Rohrbachstein46.376647.462422950
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
T4.
Wetzsteihore (Wetzsteinhorn, Sex des Molettes)46.363587.433652782
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
Laufbodenhore46.399387.473642703
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
Gletscherhore (Gletscherhorn)46.38987.489682943
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
F/T5.
Pointe de la Plaine Morte46.370717.48672927
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
Tothore (Torhorn, Sex Mort)46.369857.499212935
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
Bella Lui46.349137.488112548
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1266 - Lenk
T2.
Wildstrubel
Felshore (Felsenhorn)46.428487.610172782
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T3.
Leeshörner46.384177.596182974
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Rothorn46.381657.568083103
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Schwarzhorn46.384297.580053105
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #5
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Trubelstock46.370447.571862999
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T3.
Daubenhorn46.38847.60252942
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T3.
Rote Totz (Roter Totz)46.415547.599592848
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #6
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T4-.
Schneehore46.389047.55533178
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Wildstrubel (Lenkerstrubel)46.40027777777787.528611111111113243
  • Wildstrubel (Lenkerstrubel) (3243m46.40027777777787.52861111111111)
  • Wildstrubel Mittelgipfel (3243m46.40937.5336)
  • Grossstrubel (3243m46.41297.5627)
The highest peak in the large glaciated massif between Rawilpass and Gemmipass. Easy routes from Wildstrubelhütte, Engstligenalp and Lämmerenhütte. Often climbed with skis during the spring. Steep 500m faces towards north and NW. Due to poor rock, difficult rock routes on East ridge and North face are not recommended.
1858-09-11
Wildstrubel, ,
First ascent		T. Hinchliff, L, Stephen, M. Anderegg
1858-09-11
Wildstrubel, From Lämmerenhütte,
First ascent		From Lämmerenhütte: T. Hinchliff, L, Stephen & M. Anderegg
  • Alpine Touren Wildhorn/Wildstrubel/Blüemlisalp 2011
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #2
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #4
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #4A
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
SE side
From Lämmerenhütte (Normal route, East flank). G2/E1 F/T4/E1; 780m, 2,5-3h. 1858-09-11First ascentT. Hinchliff, L, Stephen & M. Anderegg, 1858-09-11.
  • Westalpen I #2
  • Munter 1995 #159
Wildstrubel Mittelgipfel46.40937.53363243
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
PD-/T3+.
Grossstrubel46.41297.56273243
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
F/T4.
Tierhöri (Tierhörnli)46.426117.589782894
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T4-.
Steghorn46.416737.584053146
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #6
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T4.
Tschingellochtighore46.445857.59312735
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
Lämmerenhorn46.406377.572192861
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1267 - Gemmi
T4.
Gruppo del Lohner
Gross Lohner (Vordere Lohner)46.46197.60013049
  • Gross Lohner (Vordere Lohner) (3049m46.46197.6001)
  • Mittaghore (Mittaghorn) (2678m46.467677.58879)
  • Nünihore (Nünihorn) (2717m46.478017.6113)
  • Hindere Lohner (2929m46.473547.61578)
  • Mittlere Lohner (3002m46.469477.60924)
1875-01-01
Gross Lohner, ,
First ascent		Ogi, Hari
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
PD/T5+.
Mittaghore (Mittaghorn)46.467677.588792678
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
T5.
Nünihore (Nünihorn)46.478017.61132717
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
T6-.
First46.504957.642982548
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
T3.
Elsighore46.534647.639642341
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
Bunderspitz46.492477.620272546
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
T2.
Chlyne Loner46.48547.626112584
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
PD/T6.
Hindere Lohner46.473547.615782929
Main peak on the ridge system NE of Wildstrubel separating Entschiligental in the west (Adelboden) and Kandertal (Kandersteg) in the east.
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
T2.
Bunderchrinde46.482447.626112385
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
T2.
Mittlere Lohner46.469477.609243002
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden
Chindbettipass46.431427.591392623
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 263 - Wildstrubel
  • Swisstopo - 1247 - Adelboden

Gruppo del Wildhorn

Gältehore
Rossgrabelücke46.357747.308722598
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
Col de Sanetsh (Sanetschpass)46.331497.286212252
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
Schafhore (Schafhorn)46.365867.312282697
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T4.
Spitzhore (Spitzhorn)46.375137.310242807
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
Arpelistock46.343837.315193036
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #2
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #2B
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T4.
Gältehore (Geltenhorn)46.346457.334743065
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #2
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #2A
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
PD-/T5.
Gältelücke (Col du Brochet)46.350767.350052753
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
PD/T5.
Wildhorn
Wildhorn, North summit46.355987.362293246
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
Mittaghore (Mittaghorn, Tachaigne)46.386187.438812686
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T5.
Schniderhore (Schnidehorn)46.373137.392912937
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T4.
Niesehore (Niesehorn)46.382297.373592776
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #3D
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T4.
Hahnenschritthore46.370947.354762834
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #3C
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T5.
Schniderjoch46.369267.388752756
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
Wildhorn46.35583333333337.362222222222223248
The westernmost main peak of Bernese Alps proper and the highest peak west of Gemmipass. Large glaciated massif with easy normal routes.
1843-01-01
Wildhorn, ,
First ascent		Gottlieb Samuel Studer
1882-07-27
Wildhorn, Wildgrat,
First ascent		Wildgrat: A. von Bonstetten, Fr. Streckeisen, C. Jilggi & J. Jilggi
1884-09-10
Wildhorn, From Wildhornhütte,
First ascent		From Wildhornhütte: G. Studer, A. Schlippiand & a local shepherd
1924-07-16
Wildhorn, Germannrippe,
First ascent		Germannrippe: K. Germann & W. Dilrrenmatt
  • Alpine Touren Wildhorn/Wildstrubel/Blüemlisalp 2011
  • Hochtouren Westalpen 2015 #1
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #3
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #2C
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #2D
  • Topoverlag Berner Alpen 2016 #3A
  • Dreitausender Schweiz 2014 #6
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
Wildgrat (North ridge)
Wildgrat (North ridge). G4/PD; III; 1540m, 3-3,5h. 1882-07-27First ascentA. von Bonstetten, Fr. Streckeisen, C. Jilggi & J. Jilggi, 1882-07-27.
Via Silbeeitzenpass.
  • Munter 1995 #115
Germannrippe (NNE rib). G4/D; IV-; 1540m, 3h. 1924-07-16First ascentK. Germann & W. Dilrrenmatt, 1924-07-16.
The rib falling from P2949 on Wildgrat. Most difficult of classic routes on Wildhorn.
  • Munter 1995 #118
From Wildhornhütte (Normal route). Glacier, G2/II F/PD; 1540m, 3-3,5h. 1884-09-10First ascentG. Studer, A. Schlippiand & a local shepherd, 1884-09-10.
  • Munter 1995 #119
Mont Pucel46.34777.361323177
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
Sex Noir46.317937.35742731
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T5.
Sex Rouge46.331937.376532884
  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 273 - Montana
  • Swisstopo - 1286 - Saint-Léonard
T2.
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