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Eastern Alps: Dolomites & Garda

General info

Dolomites are located in northern Italy. Their name comes from the mineral dolomite which is common in the rocks, colourful dolomitic limestone. Although Dolomites are relativeley low, the mountains are very dramatic featuring characteristic limestone pinnacles and spires and high vertical or overhanging faces, some of them over 1000 meters high. The highest peak of the Dolomites is Marmolada (3342m). However, propably the most famous is Cima Grande (2999m), a classic climbing peak with impressive North Face.

Paternkofel (2744m) and Tre Cime di Lavaredo (2999m) seen from the Dreizinnenhut (2405m). Compounded panorama of three single photographs. Source: . Credit: Günter Seggebäing, Shot in Cortina d'Ampezzo Trentino Italy , Cortina d'Ampezzo, Italy. Licensed under: Public Domain.

Geographic layout

Considering that the whole Dolomites is fairly compact it consists of a lot of groups and subgroups. Many of these groups are very small, perhaps only containing one or two main mountains and number of subsidiary peaks. Many mountains consist of large number of rock towers which are often given a name. In most other mountain areas that would not be the case. For the sake of this site Dolomites is divided the following way:

• Brenta Dolomites Brenta Dolomites form the westernmost part of Dolomites. They are located in the Province of Trentino, west of river Adige. Main convenient centers of the group are Madonna di Campiglio (1550m) and Pinzolo. The highest and most dominating peaks of the group are Cima Tosa (3173m) and Cima Brenta (3155m).
• Western Dolomites Central part between river Adige in the west and axis Val Badia–Campolongo Pass–Cordevole Valley (Agordino) in the east.
• Eastern Dolomites Eastern dolomites consists of a number of ranges around the city of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Grouping varies somewhat according to level of detail and source, but typically at least the following groups are identified:
• Southern Dolomites

Brenta Dolomites

Wilder and more alpine mountains than those on other Dolomites groups. Separated from the rest of the groups by Adige valley. Several small glaciers and snow gullies and a lot of cia ferratas.

Via delle Bocchette, a series of via ferratas, crosses Brenta group in north-south direction. This is servers as important means of access to some of the climbs.

• Northern Brenta
• Southern Brenta
• Sfulmini-group North south chain in central Brenta with four main peaks from north to south: Torre di Brenta, Campanile Alto, Campanile basso and Brenta Alta. From the east the chain is almost uniform ridge, from the west there there are several ridges and towers. Main climbing destinations are campanile Basso and Torre di Brenta.

Western Dolomites

Central part between river Adige in the west and axis Val Badia–Campolongo Pass–Cordevole Valley (Agordino) in the east.

• Langkofel Langkofel group is located due west of Sella group, separated from it by passo Sella (2244m). The main peaks form a horseshoe around Langkofel hut with peaks surrounding it in clockwise order: Langkofel, Fünffingerspitze, Grohmannspitze, Innerkofler, Zahnkofel and Plattkofel. Main access is from val Gardena in the north. Southern access from Canazei (1440m) in val de Fassa. During the winter the group has several long and steep ice couloirs offering big ice routes.
• Rosengarten/Catinaggio The group is popular among trekkers and hikers from val di Fassa but not very popular among climbers. Most popular climbing targets are three pinnacles of Torri del Vajolet, east face of Catinaccio and West face of Roda di Vael (Rotwand). Most of the climbing routes moderately difficult as well as short and accessible enough to be possible as day trips from cabin or camp site. Classics are Steger on the East face of Rosengartenspitze and the climbs on Vajolet towers. Rotwand is the best known difficult objective of the group.
  • Molignon-Antermoia
  • Catinaccio
  • Southern Catinaccio Southern Catinaccio group is located to the south of passo delle Coronelle (2630m). It is a horseshoe of peaks around Gran baja de Vael with Roda di Vael, La Sforella, Tscheinerspitaze, la Coronelle, Mugoni (Cima de Mugoni). By far the most famous climb is this area is Rotwand.
• Sella Centrally located group with roads around the whole group. It appears giant fortress of vertical walls and not distinct summit. Access to the group is very easy due to roads and lifts. Most popular climbs are Sella Towers, Piz Ciavazes and Pordoispitze. Piz Boé is known as the easiest 3000m peak in Dolomites.
• Marmolada
• Pala Group Pala-group is the westernmost of the southern groups. Main city is San Martino. NW part is best accessed from Volpi/Mulaz or Rolle pass, sentral part from San Martino di Castrozza via lift to col verde, Pedrotti/Rosetta hut or Velo hut, SE part from Trevido hut and Ne part from val di San Lucano. Best known climbs are located in the central section of the group. Probably the best known peak of the area is Pala di San Martino. Classic route on it is Gran Pilastro. Another well known climbs are Scarf arete and big routes on Sass Maor. Apparently there are a lot of worthwhile mid-grade climbing in the group as well as winter ice climbing.

• Sassolungo Group. The large area hosts a variety of routes with the N and NE face hosting 1000m+ rock routes. The S and W faces hosts shorter routes of varying lengths. There are also shorter routes on the Punta Della Cinque Dita which range from 200-350m. At UKC Climbing.
• L'Onda di Hokusai. The Molignon peak dominates the upper Duron valley with its imposing face that marks the southern end of the Seiser Alm. The route takes a line up the eastern flank and finished immediately to the right of the Molignon di Dentro summit. The route follows a line of ice unique to the Dolomies, a real north face reminiscent of the Western Alps which, due to its beauty and length, could easily be found in the Mont Blanc massif. By Andreas Tonelli & Philipp Angelo at Planet Mountain.
• L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli. Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2013-04-02.
• Sella Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Langkofel/Sassolungo Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Puez-Geisler (Odle) Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Catinaccio (Rosengarten). Area page. At SummitPost.
• Pale di San Martino Group. Area page. At SummitPost.

Eastern Dolomites

Eastern dolomites consists of a number of ranges around the city of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Grouping varies somewhat according to level of detail and source, but typically at least the following groups are identified:

• Fanes & Tofana Due west of Cortina d'Ampezzo (1210m). Quite large area with several groups of peaks.
  • Le Conturinas Large half circle of peaks in the NW part of Fanes, above rifugi la Veralla (2042m) and Rifugi Fanes (2060m).
  • passo Valparola Long North-south chain due north from passo Valparola (2192m) and passo Falzarego (2109m) forming the western bank of val Travenanzes. The chain extends from Crode del Valon Bianco (2687) in the north via Cime di Furcia Rossa to Monte Ciavai (2912m), Cima Scotoni, Lagazuoi Nord and Sud to Lagazuoi Piccola and Sas de Stria. The latetr lies somewhat isolated from the rest of the peaks on the south side of the road but very close to it and the other peaks. Southern peaks of the group are easily accessible from the passes and are by far the most polular climbs in this area. Further from the road, the main starting point of the area is Rifugi Scotoni (1985m).
  • passo Falzarego South facing climbs not far from passo Falzarego. Particularly popular is combination of South arete of Piccolo and West face of Grande, as descent from Piccolo places climbers directly to the base of the latter.
  • Tofana di Rozes Tight group of several worthwhile routes of all grades. Most routes are easily accessed from Rifugi Dibona (2030m), short drive away from Cortina d'Ampezzo. The group has lots of via ferratas as well as World War I history.
  • Tofana North-South chain of peaks located to the east of Tofana di Rosez and forming the eastern bank of val Travenanzes.
  • Fanestal Group located to the north of val di Fanes. Modern rock routes on Spalti di col Bechei (250-350m). Approach from the road 2h.
• Cinque Torri Group located to the south of Falzarego pass and SE of road Cortina d'Ampezzo - Pocol - Selva di Cdore (1335m). Relatively short routes (up to 220m). Easy access fro most routes from Cortina d'Ampezzo along the road to Falzarego pass. Road to Cinque Torri hut (2137m) for the hut guests, chair lift for others. Croda da Lago and north side of Nuvolau are best approached from the road Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Giau.
• Monte Pelmo Compact massif NE of Civetta group and south of Cortina d'Ampezzo. The massif consists only two peaks, Monte Pelmo and Pelmetto. Both of them are of their steepest and most interesting from the north.
• Cortina Dolomites SE of Cortina d'Ampezzo, there are three mountains/groups. Sorapiss, Marmorole group and Antelao. These are high and wild peaks, but not as famous and popular as Tre Cime and areas in the central part of Dolomites.
• Monte Cristallo-Pomagagna NE of Cortina d'Ampezzo and north of passo Croci.
  • Pomagagna group Westernmost of groups located NE oof Cortina d'Ampezzo, located very close to the city. Best known climbs of the area are Fiemes arete and via Comune on Punta Fiemes.
  • Monte Cristallo group
  • Cadinspitzen Cadini di Misurina. Located to the east of laguna Misurina, north of val d'Ansiei and south of Sexten Dolomites. Attractive small pinnaclesa with number of short and mainly easy climbs.
• Sexten Undisputed king of Sexten Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo rising in the western part of the group, not far from Cortina d'Ampezzo.
  • Tre Cime di Lavaredo
  • Paternkofel-Croda dei Toni-Cima Una Located to the east of Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Croda dei Toni and Cima Una are big isolated peaks with interesting normal routes (II and III0 respectively) and big north faces. Paternkofel on the other hand is located close to Tre Cime and has several via ferratas.

• Monte Pelmo Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Civetta Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Fanes Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Sexten Dolomites/Dolomiti di Sesto. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Cortina Dolomites. Area page. At SummitPost.

Southern Dolomites

• Moiazza-Civetta
  • Civetta Civetta group is Y-shaped which consists of Civetta and several lower features. Torre di Caldri is located at NE end, Torre Venezia in SW end and Torre Trieste at south end. Most obvious target for climbers is 1000m high NW face of Civetta rising above Alleghe. Other better known targets include South face of Torre Trieste and Torre Venezia. Of three normal routes of Civetta, two involve via ferrata.
  • Moiazza Moiazza group is located to the south of Civetta group. separated from it by by a col close to Torre Trieste. Most routes are located on the lower reaches going nowhere near the summit. Routes consist of pure rock and approaches ands descents are usually easy. Pala delle Masenade is probably the best known climbing venue of Moiazza group. Fr. Corestiato hut is the main base.
• Bosconero-Mezzodi Bosconero and Mezzodi groups are located in Zoldo Dolomites, in the south-eastern part of Dolomites. There are no high or otherwise very well known peaks in the area. As a result, the area is far less frequented as more famous parts of Dolomites. Val di Zoldo is important base for accessing the climbs in the group. Most climbs start from Bosconero cirque in NW.
  • Bosconero
  • Mezzodi Located west of Bosconero group. The group consists of four major pinnacles, with Spiz di Mezzo (2324m) being the dominating one. Access is from Forno di Zoldo via val Pramper.

Logistics

Access to climbs is easy as the Dolomite region has excellent roads, which are used today as geographical boundaries when dividing the range into smaller groups. Many of the villages in the area, like so many others throughout the Alps, have become well-organized tourist attractions. Of great importance as access to mountains are long road 48 running from SW to NE connecting Adige river valley with Cortina d'Ampezzo (val di Fiemme, val di Fassa, passo di Sella - passo Falazarego) and two north-south roads: one from Bruneck (Pustertal) to Agorda (Val Badia – Campolongo Pass – Cordevole) and road 51 from Toblach (Pustertal) in the north to Belluno. The former of north-south roads divides Dolomites into western and eastern sections.

Generally the best approach to climbing here is to establish a central base in a hotel or camp area, and make excursions from there. Most climbs can be done in a day from the car, but some are best approached from a high alpine hut.

Climbing info

About climbing in the area

Dolomites has various kinds of climbing:

• Dolomites is best known for being known as the mecca for multipitch rock. The terrain in the Dolomites is steep and complex. But the rock is amazingly featured and seemingly unclimbable walls can go free at only moderate levels of difficulty. There's loads and load of classic routes on various parts of the area. Probably the best known big and hard climbs are north faces of Climbing info About climbing in the area and south faces of Climbing info About climbing in the area and Marmolada3343m.
• During the winter there are quite a few places where ice and mixed routes can be found. Particularly Sottoguda, val Vallunga, val Travenanzes and val Daone are well known among ice climbers for . Difficult alpine ice/mixed routes can also be found of the area, particularly on the gullies of Langkofel group, Rosengarten and Antelao3264m.
• There are also several places with sport climbs. Best known of these areas is probably Arco by the northern end of lake Garda (although this is strictly speaking not part of the Dolomites).
• Classic mountaineering is not the dominating style of climbing on Dolomites. That being said, there are some classic ice/snow faces and couloirs on Cima Tosa3140m, Cima Brenta3150m, north side of Marmolada3343m and Monte Cristallo3221m in particular.
• Ski mountaineering mostly around the peaks as many of the peaks are far too rocky and steep for ski ascents. However, the classic couloir are a playground for extreme skiers.
• Great number of via ferratas on many of the high peaks.

Brenta Dolomites has few classic couloirs (Canale della Tosa, Brenta Nordrinne) offering playground for classical alpinism as well extreme skiing. Classic rock climbs of the area are to be found on especially on Campagnolo Basso (Via Preuss and Diedro Fehrmann), Crozzon di Brenta (Via Schulz and Pilastro die Francesi), Cima Margherita (Via Videsott) and Croz dell'Altissimo (Via Dibona). Also there are loads of low altitude rock climbs around Arco located at the northern end of Garda.

The best known climbing destinations in Western Dolomites are big rock faces of Marmolada (South face) and Civetta (NW face). Sella group is probably the most visited areas with lots of popular climbs of far less intimidating size. During the winter Catinaccio and especially Sassolungo groups have several ice routes of alpine scale on steep couloirs.

By far the most prominent feature of eastern Dolomites are towers of Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen). Particularly their north faces have been the place where standards of alpine rock climbing have been pushed during the years. And they still are as many of the most difficult multipitch rock routes of the world are to be found of north faces of Cima Grande and Cima Ovest. Also Civetta-group has big and difficult rock climbs, particularly on 1000m high NW face and South face of Torre Trieste. Cinque Torri group has lower and smaller objectives that are easily accessible.

During the winter ice fall climbing can be found on several valleys of the area. The best known places are Sottoguda-Serrai, Vallunga and val Travenazes. Illuminati is one the most difficult multipitch mixed routes anywhere and has been featured in many articles since its first ascent.

• The Dolomites - Classic Alpine Limestone. The peaks of the Dolomites are characteristically steep, with huge faces and towering summits often breaching 3000m in altitude. These stunning spires of alpine limestone are located south of the Austrian / Italian border and the mountainous area extends for 80km east of the town of Bolzano. By James Rushforth at UKC Climbing on 2010-04.
• Selection of recommended classic routes in the area of Cortina. At Guide Dolomiti.
• Dolomite Classic Climbs, Daily Itineraries. "Given the abundance of climbs in the Dolomites, we can adjust the itinerary during our climbing week to the preferred challenge level of our clients and the weather. Following are some of the routes that we can choose from." At On Top Mountaineering.
• Classic Acts. By Monique Forestier at Rock & Ice.
• Classic Route. Route information of classic routes with route photos.
• The Dolomites - 5 Easy Route Recommendations. The Dolomites have a somewhat fearsome reputation when it comes to trad climbing and when viewing the peaks with their characteristically steep faces it is easy to see why. There are however plenty of easy routes to go at in terms of technical difficulty, just bearing in mind that 7 pitches is a relatively short route and many of the descents require multiple abseils. By James Rushforth at UKC Climbing on 2015-05.

Climbing conditions

Apart from glaciers of Brenta Group and Marmolada, there is little snow or ice in the Dolomites, and that which does occur melts away by May, thus conditions are very good for rock climbing.

Ice climbing season is about the same as in most of the Alps, perhaps a bit on the shorter side due to moderate altitude and southern location.

Grading

Various grading schemes are used depending on the nature of the climb, time of the first ascent and source. Generally

• Rock routes. Traditionally uiaa grades have been used, they baan been partly supercede by using e-frade (in a way extension to uiaa) grade for trad and alpine routes and french grades for modern sport routes. This distinction is not very clear cut though, as at least the most difficult routes are usually fraded with french grades independent on whether they are small sport routes or very alpine in nature. Popularity among visiting climbers has caused them to grade several Dolomites routes to have been graded with several other systems for the purpose of articles, reports etc. Whenever applicaple standard aid grade is used.
• Alpine climbs. Generally alpine grade is not given for pure rock routes even if they would be very alpine in nature. There are several exception to this though. If alpine grade is used, it is almost certainly ifas grade. Some of the big walls routes may have nccs alpine grade though.
• Ice and snow climbs. Generally alpine grade and angle of steepness (older and less steep alpine routes), WI-grade for ice falls and modern alpine ice routes.

Guidebooks and maps

Being very popular area, there's no shortage of information about climbs in the Dolomites. There are loads of guidebooks available in various languages (aside Italian, also several in German and English) covering different areas and every type of climbing.

• Overview map of Italian eastern Alps. At Traildino.com.

• Goedeke, Richard: Südöstliche Dolomiten - Gebietsführer Für Wanderer Und Bergsteiger. Gebietsführer Für Wanderer Und Bergsteiger. Isbn: 9783763333073. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1991.
• Goedeke, Richard & Kammerer, Hans: 3000er Der Dolomiten - Die Normalwege. Ein BERG-Tourenführer. Isbn: 9783763410774. Verlag J. Berg, 1993.
• Hüsler Eugen E.: Dolomiten-Klettersteige. Isbn: 3-7654-3679-8. Denzel-Verlag.
• Hüsler Eugen E.: Klettersteigatlas Alpen. Isbn: . Bruckmann.
• Kohler, Anette; Memmel, Norbert; Carruthers, Tim & Tim, Carruthers: Classic Rock Climbs in the Dolomites. Isbn: 1898573344. Baton Wicks Publications, 1999.
• Auer, Konrad & Unteregelsbacher, Philipp: Eiskletterführer "Südtirol-Dolomiten", 1. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783936740608. Panico Alpinverlag, 2009.
• James, Ron: Dolomites, West and East - Alpine Club Climbing Guidebook, New Ed Edition edition. Isbn: 9780900523656. Alpine Club, 2002.
• Jentzsch, Andreas & Jentzsch-Rabl, Axel: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen - Auswahlführer mit 84 Tourenvorschlägen für Österreich, Südtirol und die Schweiz. Isbn: 9783950092004. Alpinverlag Jentsch-Rabl, 2004.
• Schmitt, Edwin & Pusch, Wolfgang: Hochtouren Ostalpen - 90 Fels- und Eistouren zwischen Bernina und Tauern. Isbn: 9783763330102. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.
• Sertori, Mario: Alpine Ice - The 600 Best Ice Falls In The Alps. Isbn: 9788887890839. Versant Sud, 2009.
• Bernardi, Mauro: Klettern in Den Dolomiten Im 3. Und 4. Grad - Die Schönsten Routen Für Anfänger Und Genie?Er: Die Schönsten Routen Für Anfänger Und Fortgeschrittene, 1., Aufl. (NED). edition. Isbn: 9788882669140. Athesia, 2013.
• Rabanser, Ivo & Bonaldo, Orietta: Vie E Vicende in Dolomiti. 50 Itinerari Scelti E Raccontati (Luoghi Verticali). Isbn: 9788887890273. Versante Sud, 2005.
• Smith, John & Fletcher, Graham: Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites, Vol 1, Revised Edition edition. Isbn: 1852843624. Cicerone Press, 2003.
• Fletcher, Graham & Smith, John: Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites, Vol 2 - Southern Dolomites, Brenta and Lake Garda. Isbn: 1852843802. Cicerone Press Limited, 2010.
• Köhler, Anette & Memmel, Norbert: Dolomiten - Kletterführer 3-4, 4. , Vollst. Überarb. U. Erw. A. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783763330157. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003.
• Gantzhorn, Ralf: Dolomiten - 50 Alpine Kletterrouten., 1. Auflage 2013 edition. Isbn: 9783763370641. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2013.
• Goedeke, Richard: Dolomiten. Sella, Langkofel Extrem. - Für Bergsteiger Und Kletterer.. Isbn: 9783763313150. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2001.
• Goedeke, Richard: Dolomiten. Sella, Langkofel Extrem. - Für Bergsteiger Und Kletterer.. Isbn: 9783763313150. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2001.
• Zorzi, Emiliano; Hall, K. & Hempton, L.: Mid Grade Trad Rock. Western Dolomites 1 - 57 mid grade trad rock in: Odle-Puez-Putia, Sassolungo, Sella, Catinaccio, Marmolada, Pale di San Martino. Isbn: 9788897299080. Idea Montagna, 2011.
• Zorzi, Emiliano: Mid Grade Trad Rock. Western Dolomites 2. Isbn: 9788897299103. Idea Montagna, 2011.
• Bernard, Antonio: La Nuova Guida Del Catinaccio. Isbn: 9788827219652. Edizioni Mediterranee, 2008.
• Kubin, Andreas: Dolomiten. Civettagruppe. - Civettagruppe. Isbn: 9783763313020. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1981.
• Cappellari, Francesco: Ghiaccio Verticale - Le Più Belle Cascate Delle Alpi Orientali. Isbn: 9788880430650.
• Svab, Erik & Renzi, Giovanni: Tre Cime. Vie Classiche E Moderne. Isbn: 9788887890884. Versante Sud, 2009.
• Svab, Erik & Renzi, Giovanni: Tre Cime: Classic & Modern Routes. Isbn: 9788887890976. Versante Sud, 2011.
• Goedeke, Richard: Sextener Dolomiten Extrem - Alpenvereinsführer. Isbn: 9783763312559. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003.
• Goedeke, Richard: Dolomiten - Pelmo Mit Bosconero, Moiazza, Tamer-Gruppe, Cime Di San Sebastiano. Isbn: 9783763313068. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1981.
• Cadore, Ragni Di Pieve Di; Hempton, L. & Krueckl, S.: Arrampicare in Cadore - Falesie Nel Cuore Delle Dolomiti. Isbn: 9788897299257. Idea Montagna, 2012.

• Ice fall climbing. Good introduction to ice climbing areas. Mostly covers the areas in the Dolomites, but selected other areas are covered as well. At Planet Mountain.
• Rock climbing in the dolomites. At Planet Mountain.
• Dolomites. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Dolomites routes. At Planet Mountain.
• Dolomites - Ice, Mixed and Drytooling. The Dolomites need no introducing as a summer climbing venue, however many people don't realise that the climbing is equally impressive during the winter months. There are literally icefalls everywhere, covering all grades and lengths, set in some of the most dramatic scenery in Europe. By James Rushforth at UKC Climbing on 2012-03.
• Dolomites. The Dolomites have to be one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. There are countless long routes at all levels of difficulty. The rock is limestone, the quality of which can vary dramatically! Many of the climbs have short approaches, and the longer ones can often be accessed via lifts. Definitely a classic and historical climbing destination. Most of the routes are "old school", so feel out the ratings. At Mountain Project.
• Dolomites. At UKC Climbing.
• Ice Climbing in the Italian Dolomites. February 7-14, 2010 (Selva di Cadore/Sottoguda, Val di Gares, Valle di Daone). By Peter Valchev at Valchev.net.
• Dolomites - Ice Climbing in the Serrai di Sottoguda, an Ice Climber's Paradise. Talk of the Dolomites and most people either don’t know what you’re talking about, or they instantly start talking about vertiginous Via Ferrata and ridiculous rock climbing lines up soaring cliffs. These mountains, despite their modest stature and proximity to a road head or a ski lift offer some of the finest alpine rock one can find. But there is also a lack of information about other activities which puts people off – the reality is there is so much more to these mountains than just the normal activities your average Briton knows about. By Casa Alfredino at UKC Climbing on 2015-04.
• Gulliver.it. A lot of route info mainly on Italian and nearby areas. Only available in Italian.
• Alpinismo e arrampicate. Sito Web di Sergio Ramella. By Sergio Ramella.
• Quarto Grado. Site seems to have a lot of topos available online.

Valleys

Brenta Dolomites

Val Melednio

Main valley to the west of Brenta group. Madonna di Campiglio (1524m) located in the valley is the convenient center in the valley and excellent starting point for climbing in Brenta Dolomites.

• Madonna di Campiglio

Val Brenta

Due NW of Brenta group, access from Madonna di Campiglio. Main valley to access the climbs with several huts, of which particularly rifugi Brentei is important.

Val Ambiez

Due south of Brenta group with Rifugi Agostini as a base for climbs. Access from San Lorenzo. Main climbing destinations are Cima d'Ambiez and Torre d'Ambiez (2840m). The latter is one of five towers due south of Xima d'Ambiez.

Molveno

Due SE from lake Molveno. Rifugi Croz dell'Altissimo

Sarca valley

Arco is situated within the Sarca Valley due north from the northern end of lago di Garda. There are over 50 sports crags and 30 long multi-pitch crags in the area ranging from single-pitsch sport routes to long, Dolomites-style routes on steep limestone rock up to 1400m long. Better known big walls include Monte Casale, Piccolo Dain and Monte Brento.

• Arco Tourism

• Klettern 3/2001 pp.14-27

• Rock Climbing at Arco and in the Sarca Valley. Arco is situated within the Sarca Valley and offers something for everyone, from single pitch sports routes to long Dolomite style airy multi-pitch routes on the big walls of Monte Casale, Piccolo Dain and Monte Brento. The whole area is vast with many 1000's of routes to choose from at all grades on superb limestone rock. Situated just north of Lake Garda and only a couple of hours from the Dolomites it is possible to rock climb throughout most of the year and is easily accessible if wet in the mountains around the Dolomites. At Climb Europe.
• Arco - Italian Sport Climbing Mecca. By Jack Geldard at UKC Climbing on 2008-01.

val Daone

Ice fall mecca of Brenta.

• Cascdaone. Clickable map about ice falls in val Daone.
• ICE Itinerari. Ice routes of Val Daone. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain.

Western and Eastern Dolomites

River Adige

Main valley if the western part between Brenta group in the west and Western Dolomites in the east. Long north-south valley with Trento and Bolzano. Motorway through the valley from Verona to Innsbruch. Separates Brenta Dolomites from Western Dolomites. To access climbs of the western Dolomites, side valleys Val Gardena and val di Fassa are important.

val Gardena

St. Ulrich (1236m), St. Christina (1428m) and Wolkenstein (1564m) are the main convenient centers in the valley.

Main climbing attractions are Sella group and Langkofel group during the summer. During the winter Vallunga (Langental) has a several famous mixed climbs that rank among the most difficult in the world (Illuminati IV M11+ WI6, 170m, Zauberflöte IV M5,A1 WI6 155m, Piovra III WI5+ 130m are among the classics). Obviously there are also less extreme climbs. Sassolungo (Langkofel group) on the other hand has several steep couloirs with difficult ice/mixed climbs.

• Val Gardena
• Seiser Alm

• Bernardi, Mauro: Klettern in Gröden Und Umgebung - Die Schönsten Routen in Den Dolomiten. Isbn: 9788882666095. Athesia, 2009.
• Bernardi, Mauro: Klettern in Gröden Und Umgebung - Die Schönsten Routen in Den Dolomiten Vol. 2. Isbn: 9788882667313. Athesia, 2011.

• Touring Club Italiano: D56 Val Gardena1:50 000
• Val Gardena Dolomites. 3d map. At Val Gardena.
• Ski map val Gardena. At Skimap.info.
• Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: WKS5 Gröden-Cortina-Marmolada1:50 000
• Tabacco: 05 Gröden-Seiser Alm1:25 000

• Rare Trad M10 Goes Up in Italy. January 27-30, Austrian climbers Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established Senza Piombo (WI5 M10, 5 pitches), one of the hardest, traditionally protected mixed routes in the world. By David Crother at Alpinist on 2013-02-11.
• Vallunga valley. A fantastic steep sided valley in an amazing setting. Home to the new 'Sandro Pertini' VF and a popular winter climbing venue. At UKC Climbing.
• Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites. The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2013-02-01.
• Leichtfried blazes Illuminati M11+/WI 6+. On 24 January Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena (South Tyrol) N. Italy . The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2006-02-07.
• Illuminati. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain.
• Dolomites: Illuminati 1^ female repeat. On Jan. 27, the German climber Ines Papert partnered by the Austrian Lisi Steurer managed the ascent of Illuminati M11 + /WI 6 +, the icefall opened by Albert Leichtfried in Vallunga (Val Gardena), thus the probable third repeat and first female ascente. At Up-climbing.
• Selva di Val Gardena. At Gulliver.it.
• Cascate di Ghiaccio - Val Gardena, Sella e Val di Fassa. By Alberico Mangano & Nicola Tondini at Planet Mountain.

val di Fassa

Road from river Adige valley in the west to Falzarego pass and further to Cortina d'Ampezzo is the main west-east road through Dolomites. The main centers in the valley are Pozza di Fassa (1320m) in the loweer valley and Canazei (1450m) in the upper valley.

From the lower valley main objective is Catinaccio group, which can be accessed readily from the road leading from Pozza di Fassa to the eastern side of the group.

Canazei gives access to Sassolungo group in NW, Sella group in NE. Road between Sassolungo and Sella groups leads from Canazei to passo Sella and further down to val Gardena. Further up the valley from Canazei towards Cortina d'Ampezzo the road rises to passo Fedaia, which give convenient access to north side of Marmolada.

• Val di Fassa
• Val di Fassa Climbing

• Tabacco: Val di Fassa - Marmolada1:25 000
• Tabacco: 06 Val di Fassa1:25 000
• map. At Rifugio Boè.
• Val di Fassa Hiking Map. At Mappery.

• Val di Fassa - Ice. The Val di Fassa, in the heart of the Trento Dolomites, offers lovers of front-pointing a huge range of climbing on routes that are now classics. New, very interesting lines have been created in the last few seasons, and the Alpine Guide Tommaso Cardelli gives us all the relevant information. By Tommaso Cardelli at Up-Climbing on 2012-01-04.
• Arrampicata su ghiaccio e dry tooling in Val di Fassa. At Planet Mountain.

Pustertal

West-east valley that branches from river Adige valley close to Penserjoch (2215m). The valley forms to northern border of Dolomites. Road through the valley to Lienz. Bruneck and Dobbiaco are main convenient centers in the valley.

• Pustertal
• Toblach

• Klettern 2/99

• Tobblach/Dobbiaco. Pustertal 3d map. At Dolce vita alpina post.
• Alta Pusteria Piste Map. 3d ski map.

Val Badia–Cordevole Valley

Val Badia in the north (from Bruneck in Pustertal) and Cordevole Valley in the south are connected by Campolongo Pass. The road through these valleys is considered to separate Western and Eastern Dolomites.

• Tabacco: 025 Dolomiti de Zoldo, Cadorine e Agordino1:25 000

Val Badia

From Pustertal in the north to Campolongo pass.

• Alta Badia

Primiero

The valley forms SW border of Dolomites. San Martino di Castrozza is well positioned to visit mountains of Pala-group, located immediately to East of the city.

• Ski area San Martino di Castrozza - Passo Rolle

Cordevole Valley

The valley gives access to Civetta NW face and South face of Marmolada, two of the biggest faces in Dolomites. During the winter the main attraction is Serrai di Sottoguda. Agordino and Alleghe are the main cities in the valley.

• Giordani, Maurizio: Marmolada South Face. Isbn: 9788887890716. Versante Sud, 2008.

• Serrai di Sottoguda. Probably the most famous ice climbing venue in Italy outside of Colne. Positioned at the base of the Marmolada between the villages of Sottoguda and Malga Ciapela, the Serrai di Sottoguda is a steep sided gorge with many spectacular icefalls. At UKC Climbing.
• Sottoguda, ice climbing sport crag. At Dolomites Experience.

Val di Zoldo

Long valley NW from Piave Valley by Longarone, somewhat NE of Belluno. Lago Pontesei - Forno di Zoldo - Dont - Zoldo Alto.

The valley is surrounded bu several groups: in clockwise direction Pelmo and Bosconero groups on the east side and Pramper, Moiazze and Civetta on the west side.

From the upper valley road continues up to Forzella Staulanza (2694m) before descending to Selva di Cadore (1335m), passo Giau (2236m) and Cortina d'Ampezzo.

• Val di Zoldo

valle d'Ampezzo

Centrally located valley in the heart of the eastern Dolomites. Cortina d'Ampezzo located in the valley is the most important center of the area. There are numerous side valleys that are used to get to the climbs.

During the winter val Travenanzes is the mecca around Cortina d'Ampezzo. The valley has loads of ice climbs, Sogno Canadese (III WI5, 200m) perhaps the most classic of them.

• Cortina d'Ampezzo

• Bernardi, Mauro: Klettern in Cortina D' Ampezzo Und Umgebung - Dolomiten - Die Schönsten Routen in Den Dolomiten, 3., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9788882669041. Athesia, 2013.

• Tabacco: 03 Cortina d'Ampezzo1:25 000
• Cortina d'Ampezzo. 3d ski map.
• Cortina d'Ampezzo. 3d ski map.

• Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites. Florian Riegler has established Dolasilla (M13-), a new mixed route in Val Travenanzes (Fanes massif, Dolomites). The first free ascent was carried out by Pavol Rajcan from Slovak Republic. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2011-04-06.
• Attraverso Travenanzes, new icefall in Val Travenanzes by Ballico and Gamberini. On 16 February 2013 Beppe Ballico and Andrea Gamberini made the first ascent of Attraverso Travenanzes (120m, III, WI5+) a new icefall at the Supermario sector in Val Travenanzes which, once again, confirms itself as being an eldorado for ice climbing not only in the Dolomites but further afield, too. The report and route topo by the first ascentionists. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2013-02-27.

Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Cimabanche

At first directly north, then to NE to passo Cimabanche.

Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Tre Croci

Towards east from Cortina d'Ampezzo through passo Tre Croci. Used to access Cortina Dolomites and Sexten Dolomites.

Cortina d'Ampezzo - Belluno

Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Falzarego

Towards west from Cortina d'Ampezzo. Important valley to access several groups from Cortina d'Ampezzo. Particularly used to access Tofana di Rozes, Fanes and Cinque Torri. Further beyond Falzaregopass roads lead to val di Fassa (Canazei) and val Gardena (Alta Badia).

• Klettern 2/00

Piave Valley

Large valley system forming the Southern and eastern border of Dolomites. Main city of the valley is Belluno.

Misurina

Auronzo - Misurina road is important for accessing climbs on Sexten Dolomites and Cadini di Misurina.

Mountains

Dolomites

Dolomiti di Sesto, di Braies e d'Ampezzo

Dolomiti di Sesto

Gruppo Rondoi-Baranci

Ramo della Rocca dei Baranci

Nodo della Croda dei Baranci

Gruppo dei Tre Scarperi

Bastione principale dei Tre Scarperi

Gruppo Paterno-Cima Una

Nodo del Monte Paterno

Nodo della Cima Una

Gruppo delle Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Cadini di Misurina

Gruppo della Croda dei Toni

Massiccio principale della Croda dei Toni

Gruppo del Popera

Sottogruppo di Cima Undici

Dolomiti di Braies

Gruppo della Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo

Sottogruppo della Croda d'Ampezzo

Dolomiti Orientali di Badia

Gruppo delle Cunturines

Gruppo di Fanis

Nodo di Fanis

Nodo di Lagazuoi

Gruppo della Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo

Sottogruppo di Bechei

Dolomiti Ampezzane

Gruppo delle Tofane

Cime principali delle Tofane

Gruppo del Nuvolau

Dorsale del Nuvolau

Settore delle Cinque Torri

Gruppo Croda da Lago-Cernera

Sottogruppo del Cernera

Gruppo della Croda da Lago-Cernera

Gruppo della Croda da Lago

Gruppo del Cristallo

Sottogruppo del Popena

Sottogruppo del Cristallo

Gruppo del Sorapiss

Bastione del Sorapiss

ruppo del Sorapiss

Diramazione della Punta Nera

Dolomiti Cadorine

Gruppo delle Marmarole

Sottogruppo del Bel Pra

Sottogruppo delle Marmarole

Sottogruppo del Ciastelin

Gruppo dell'Antelao

Massiccio dell'Antelao

Dolomiti di Zoldo

Dolomiti Settentrionali di Zoldo

Gruppo del Pelmo i.s.a.

Gruppo del Pelmo in senso stretto

Gruppo del Bosconero

Sottogruppo Sfornioi-Sassolungo di Cibiana

Gruppo Bosconero-Rocchette

Gruppo della Civetta

Dorsale del Civetta

Gruppo della Moiazza

Dorsale delle Moiazze

Dolomiti Meridionali di Zoldo

Gruppo San Sebastiano-Tamer 

Crode di Tamer e Gardesana

Dolomiti di Gardena e di Fassa

Dolomiti di Gardena

Gruppo del Sella

Sottogruppo del Boè

Sottogruppo del Pissadù

Gruppo del Sassolungo

Massiccio del Sassolungo

settore del Sasso Levante

Massiccio del Sassopiatto

Gruppo delle Odle i.s.a.

Gruppo delle Odle p.d.

Gruppo Plose-Putia

Gruppo della Putia

Odle di Eores

Dolomiti di Fassa

Gruppo del Catinaccio

Sottogruppo del Principe

Sottogruppo Molignon-Antermoia

Catinaccio Centrale

Catena della Roda di Vael

Gruppo della Marmolada

Massiccio della Marmolada

Sottogruppo Ombretta-Ombrettola

Catena della Cima dell'Uomo

Dolomiti di Feltre e delle Pale di San Martino

Gruppo Pale di San Martino-Feruc

Gruppo delle Pale di San Martino 

Sottogruppo del Mulaz

Gruppo delle Pale di San Martino

Sottogruppo del Focobon

Gruppo dei Bureloni

Gruppo della Vezzana

Sottogruppo della Cima Canali

Sottogruppo della Pala di San Martino

Sottogruppo della Pala di San Martino

Sottogruppo della Val di Roda

Sottogruppo del Sass Maor 

Sottogruppo dell'Agner

Gruppo delle Pale di San Martino

Sottogruppo della Croda Grande

Alpi Feltrine

Gruppo del Cimonega 

Massiccio del Sass da Mur

Dolomites de Fiemme

Dolomiti Settentrionali di Fiemme

Gruppo del Latemar

Cresta del Latemar

Dolomiti Meridionali di Fiemme

Massiccio di Cima d'Asta

Dorsale Cima d'Asta-Quarazza