View over the southern Drygalski Mountains in NW direction, peak on the right is the Ulvetanna. Credit: Wilfried Bauer, Shot on 2014-03-01 Photo taken in Drygalski Mountains, Antarctica.Licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
View over the southern Drygalski Mountains in NW direction, peak on the right is the Ulvetanna. Credit: Wilfried Bauer, Shot on 2014-03-01 Photo taken in Drygalski Mountains, Antarctica.Licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

Here Antarctica and areas far north are combined together despite the areas being literally worlds apart. Climbing in Arctarctica is logistically challenging and correspondingly expensive. The most climbed objective is probably Mount Vinson for the fact that it is the highest and therefore one of the seven summits. Other than challenging weather it isn't particularly difficult. The same does not apply to some of the lower ranges, particularly Queen Maud Land where peaks like Ulvetanna rise vertically from the sea of ice. Greenland, perhaps a bit surprisingly, is best known for its rock rock climbing, as some of the fjords boast number of rock walls of Yosemite proportions. The same applies to Canadian Baffin island , where particularly Mount Asgard has attracted several elite parties during the years.

  • Arctic Cordillera Arctic Cordillera covers northeastern flank of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago from Ellesmere Island to the northeasternmost part of the Labrador Peninsula. The range is not too far from western Greenland. By far the best known part of the range is Baffin Island and in particular its Auyuittuq National Park. The park has several peaks with huge rock walls of big wall proportions. Here Mount Asgaard (2011m) is likely the best known destination.
  • Greenland Greenland is world's largest island and one of the least explored areas in the world. It is predominantly an ice cap with a rugged mountain chain which runs north to south up the East Coast. Greenland holds tremendous climbing potential for the future. Although several of the southern big wall arenas and alpine ranges have become increasingly popular there are still many unexplored regions even close to best known regions, not to mention virtually unclimbed areas in the northeast.
  • Svalbard
  • Antarctica Climbing in Arctarctica is logistically challenging and correspondingly expensive. The most climbed objective is probably Mount Vinson for the fact that it is the highest and therefore one of the seven summits. Other than challenging weather it isn't particularly difficult. The same does not apply to some of the lower ranges, particularly Queen Maud Land where peaks like Ulvetanna rise vertically from the sea of ice.

Greenland

Greenland is world's largest island and one of the least explored areas in the world. It is predominantly an ice cap with a rugged mountain chain which runs north to south up the East Coast. Greenland holds tremendous climbing potential for the future. Although several of the southern big wall arenas and alpine ranges have become increasingly popular there are still many unexplored regions even close to best known regions, not to mention virtually unclimbed areas in the northeast.

  • Northern Greenland
  • Western Greenland North of Cape Farewell area at the southern tip, the west coast of Greenland features numerous fjord systems. Lot of the peninsulas and the islands are littered with steep rock peaks, but none have become as famous as those at Cape Farewell area. Peaks are generally lower than those on the east coast and therefore the peaks are mostly interesting to alpine rock climbers, not so much for general alpinism. Due to area being disected with fjords, the west coast have few larger ranges, rather than a large number of islands and and peninsulas.
  • Eastern Greenland The highest ranges (Lemons, the Lindberghs, Watkins) are located on East Coast. Here lie Mount Gunnbjornsfjeld, the highest mountain in Greenland, is located on the central part of the East Coast approximately 45km from the coast.
  • Southern Greenland Cape Farewell area of south Greenland is rapidly becoming world famous for its big granite walls on peaks like Ketil and Ulamertorssuaq at the head of Tasermiut Fjord. Overshadowed by these few world class cliffs the climbing potential of the peaks in the rest of the region is rarely reported although the area between Tasermiut Fjord and Augpilatoq alone offers over 1000km2 of relatively accessible granite mountains rising with well-defended buttresses and faces from 1000m to 1500m out of the fjords. Every part of the region provides ranges of towers and spires equally impressive as the Chamonix Aiguilles.

May-early September. Due to northern location lots of daylight.

Western Greenland

North of Cape Farewell area at the southern tip, the west coast of Greenland features numerous fjord systems. Lot of the peninsulas and the islands are littered with steep rock peaks, but none have become as famous as those at Cape Farewell area. Peaks are generally lower than those on the east coast and therefore the peaks are mostly interesting to alpine rock climbers, not so much for general alpinism. Due to area being disected with fjords, the west coast have few larger ranges, rather than a large number of islands and and peninsulas.

  • Upernavik region Area located to the north of giant bays of Uummannaq and Disco bays.
  • Uummannaq Nuussuaq Peninsula and the areas north from it. The most famous peak of the area is Uummannaq (1170m).
  • Disco Bay Huge bay to the south of Nuussuaq Peninsula. The bay contains the large island of Disko.
  • Evighedsfjorden Peaks rise to above 2000m on both sides of Evighedsfjorden. Mount Atter (Taateral, 2190m) located on the north side of the fjord and Agssaussat (2140m) on the south side.
  • Maanitsoq Major fjord system between Evighedsfjorden in the north and Nuuk area to the south.
  • Nuuk Highly complex fjord system with multiple branches and many islands. The peninsulas and islands are littered with mountains, but none of them are particularly high or famous.
  • Baffin and Greenland Big Walls for 'Wild Bunch'. This summer the ‘Wild Bunch’ - Nico and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villaneuva and Ben Ditto - made ten extreme new big wall ascents from E3 to E6 in West Greenland and East Baffin. By Natalie Berry at UKC Climbing on 2014-10.
  • Exotic New Routes on Greenland's Big Walls. This summer, brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, fellow Belgian Sean Villanueva and American climber and photographer Ben Ditto climbed a string of new routes on the west coast of Greenland. By Meghan Ward at Alpinist on 2010-09-14.
  • Italians Explore West Greenland Coast. Michele Maggioni and Daniele Bernasconi established two long moderates off the west coast of Greenland while exploring the relatively uncharted region they described as "the Alps... transplanted into the sea!" By Erik Lambert at Alpinist on 2009-12-32.

Eastern Greenland

The highest ranges (Lemons, the Lindberghs, Watkins) are located on East Coast. Here lie Mount Gunnbjornsfjeld, the highest mountain in Greenland, is located on the central part of the East Coast approximately 45km from the coast.

  • North of Scoresby Sound Scoresby Sound is the huge fjord system at the half way of Eastern´Greenland. Both the peninsula on itse north side as well as peninsulas and islands inside the fjord system are mountainous. The best known climbing are is Stauning Alps.
  • South of Scoresby Sound Large peninsula to the south of Scoresby Sound contains number of mountain ranges, particularly on the southern coast. Most explored of these ranges is Watkins Range, home to the highest peaks of Greenland.
  • Schweizerland Schweizerland is located somewhat further south, at about the same latitude as the northernmost parts of Iceland. The area is fairly popular, partially due to relatively short distance from the international airport in Kulusuk and the town of Tasiilaq.

North of Scoresby Sound

Scoresby Sound is the huge fjord system at the half way of Eastern´Greenland. Both the peninsula on itse north side as well as peninsulas and islands inside the fjord system are mountainous. The best known climbing are is Stauning Alps.

  • Stauning Alps Stauning Alps are located on the peninsula to the north of the most prominent fjord on the east coast, Scoresby Sound. The entire range consists of rugged alpine peaks reaching almost 3000m height. The range is one of the most explored in Greenland.
  • Liverpool Land Located close to the end of the main peninsula to the north of Scoresby Sound.
  • Ren Land Huge peninsula inside Scoresby Sound fjord system.
  • Milne Land Large island in side Scoresby Sound fjord system.
  • Dutchmen Rack Up Virgin Summits in Greenland. This August, four Dutch climbers established basecamp on the Ren Land peninsula of Greenland with hopes of climbing new routes, particularly an alpine-style ascent of The Cenotaph and a big-wall ascent of Shark Tooth, both unclimbed. By Erik Lambert at Alpinist on 2009-12-04.
  • The Great Shark Hunt: Free Climbing Greenland's Scoresby Sund. Swiss climbers Silvan Schupbach and Christian "Laddy" Ledergerber with Italian Matteo Della Bordella have summited a 900m granite spire on the remote Renland peninsula of the eastern coast of Greenland called the Shark's Tooth. By Matteo Della Bordella at Alpinist on 2014-10-22.
  • Scottish Mountaineering Club Greenland Expedition 1996
  • Scottish Mountaineering Club East Greenland Expedition 2003. "The Scottish Mountaineering Club four man expedition visited the Staunings Alps, a large range of (mainly) granite and gneiss glaciated peaks in the North-East Greenland National Park, for a three week period from mid July to mid August 2003. The team consisted of Stephen Reid (Leader), Colwyn Jones (Medical Officer), Jonathan Preston, and Hamish Irvine, three of the above (Reid, Jones and Irvine) being members of the SMC." By Stephen Reid.
  • The Scottish Mountaineering Club East Greenland Expedition 2007. "The Scottish Mountaineering Club East Greenland Expedition 2007 consisted of eight experienced mountaineers. Greenland and even East Greenland covers a large area. The region to be visited was the Staunings Alps in the North East Greenland National Park." By Colwyn Jones.

South of Scoresby Sound

Large peninsula to the south of Scoresby Sound contains number of mountain ranges, particularly on the southern coast. Most explored of these ranges is Watkins Range, home to the highest peaks of Greenland.

  • Lemons range Not as well known as Staunign Alps further north but according to expedition reports area featuring similar kind of very alpine peaks offering host of technical routes both on rock and ice.
  • Lindberghs range
  • Watkins range Watkins range is home to the highest peaks of Greenland, culminating at Gunnbjørn Fjeld (3700m). The peaks are generally higher but less dramatic than those in Stauning Alps or Lemons range.

Schweizerland

Schweizerland is located somewhat further south, at about the same latitude as the northernmost parts of Iceland. The area is fairly popular, partially due to relatively short distance from the international airport in Kulusuk and the town of Tasiilaq.

Southern Greenland

Cape Farewell area of south Greenland is rapidly becoming world famous for its big granite walls on peaks like Ketil and Ulamertorssuaq at the head of Tasermiut Fjord. Overshadowed by these few world class cliffs the climbing potential of the peaks in the rest of the region is rarely reported although the area between Tasermiut Fjord and Augpilatoq alone offers over 1000km2 of relatively accessible granite mountains rising with well-defended buttresses and faces from 1000m to 1500m out of the fjords. Every part of the region provides ranges of towers and spires equally impressive as the Chamonix Aiguilles.

  • Nanortalik peninsula Peninsula on the north side of Tasermiut fjord, across the famous peaks located on the south side.
  • Tasermiut fjord South side Tasermiut fjord is home of the most famous climbing objectives of southern Greenland, big walls of Ketil, Nalumasortoq and Ulamertorsuaq.
  • Big walls of Southern Greenland. Ketil Fjeld, South Greenland, 1987. Article written and translated 1994.
  • Seven New Free Routes in Greenland's Tasermiut Fjord. A large group of Brits—Es Tresidder, Tony Stone, James Vybiral, Dan McManus, Tom Spreyer and Ged Desforges—and one Bavarian, Ruben Gutzat, traveled to Greenland's Tasermiut Fjord from July 16 to August 13, 2008. Spurred by excellent weather, the group climbed numerous new, all-free lines on the fjord's colossal granite walls. By Es Tresidder at Alpinist on 2008-08-25.
  • Grmovseks in Greenland: More Big, Free Routes. The British parties climbing from the Hermelndal at the head of the Tasermiut Fjord in South Greenland (read the August 25, 2008 NewsWire) were not the only climbers to visit this fine area of partially explored rock walls this summer. By Emily Maynard at Alpinist on 2008-09-13.
  • Five Kilometers of Climbing in Greenland. A Swiss-Bavarian group of climbers established over 5000 meters of climbing in ten new routes in Southern Greenland this August on the island of Quvnerit. By Emily Maynard at Alpinist on 2011-10-21.

Svalbard

Antarctica

Climbing in Arctarctica is logistically challenging and correspondingly expensive. The most climbed objective is probably Mount Vinson for the fact that it is the highest and therefore one of the seven summits. Other than challenging weather it isn't particularly difficult. The same does not apply to some of the lower ranges, particularly Queen Maud Land where peaks like Ulvetanna rise vertically from the sea of ice.

  • West Antarctica
    • Antarctic Peninsula Long and prominent peninsula that is separated by 1000km from Tierre del Fuego, the southernmost tip of Patagonia. The entire peninsula is very mountaineous culminating at Mount Jackson (3184m).
    • Ellsworth Mountains
      • Sentinel Range Getting access to the climbs in the Antarctica used to be extremely difficult, not to mention prohibitively expensive. Nowadays commercial expeditions are organised. Ellsworth Mountains, south of the Antarctic Peninsula is the best-known and the highest of the ranges. 5140m Mount Vinson is located in Sentinel Range of Ellsworth mountains. It is the highest peak of Antarctica and by far the most climbed. Shinn, Mount Gardner and Mount Tyree are also occasionally climbed.
      • Heritage Range
    • Executive Committee Range The Executive Committee Range is a mountain range consisting of volcanoes in Marie Byrd Land, The highest of the volcanoes is Mount Sidley (4285m), the sole 4000m peaks of the range. The other main peaks include Mount Waesche and Mount Hampton.
  • Transantarctic Mountains The Transantarctic Mountains (abbreviated TAM) comprise a mountain range in Antarctica which extend, with some interruptions, across the continent from Cape Adare in northern Victoria Land to Coats Land. These mountains divide East Antarctica and West Antarctica. They include a number of separately named mountain groups, which are often again subdivided into smaller ranges. The highest peak of the range is Mount Kirkpatrick (4528m) with many other peaks rising to above 4000m.
    • Shackleton range
    • Pensacola Mountains
    • Thiel Mountains
    • Whitmore Mountains
    • Queen Maud Mountains
      • Queen Alexandra range
      • Queen Elizabeth Range
    • Thiel Mountains
  • East Antarctica Eastern Artarctica contains several ranges
    • Fimbulheimen Probably the most spectacular peaks on Antarctica are to be found in Queen Maud lands where impressive spires of Ulvetanna-group have attracted several famous climbers to put high profile and very difficult routes on them. The group consist of spires with vertical rock walls rising for hundreds of meters from the flat glacier. Most famous peaks are Holtanna and Ulvetanna. Due to very low temperatures it's hardly surprising that most (all) routes involve aid climbing.
    • Thorshavnheiane
    • Scott Mountains
    • Prince Charles Mountains
  • Gildea, Damien: Mountaineering in Antarctica - Climbing in the Frozen South. Isbn: 9782875230065. Nevicata, 2010.

Sentinel Range

Getting access to the climbs in the Antarctica used to be extremely difficult, not to mention prohibitively expensive. Nowadays commercial expeditions are organised. Ellsworth Mountains, south of the Antarctic Peninsula is the best-known and the highest of the ranges. 5140m Mount Vinson is located in Sentinel Range of Ellsworth mountains. It is the highest peak of Antarctica and by far the most climbed. Shinn, Mount Gardner and Mount Tyree are also occasionally climbed.

Climbing is done during the Antarctis summer (december - february). Even then the average temperature is around -30 to -40°C. Access to the ranges is by plane from Punta Arenas in Chile to Union Glacier Camp followed by shorter flight to the mountains.

Fimbulheimen

Probably the most spectacular peaks on Antarctica are to be found in Queen Maud lands where impressive spires of Ulvetanna-group have attracted several famous climbers to put high profile and very difficult routes on them. The group consist of spires with vertical rock walls rising for hundreds of meters from the flat glacier. Most famous peaks are Holtanna and Ulvetanna. Due to very low temperatures it's hardly surprising that most (all) routes involve aid climbing.

Mountains

Greenland

Northern Greenland

Greenland

Roosevelt Range
Mara Mountain83.566666667-30.4666666671155
1998-07-14
Mara Mountain, ,
First ascent		Top of The World Expedition
Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Western Greenland

Greenland

Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Eastern Greenland

Greenland

Watkins Range
Gunnbjørn Fjeld (Gunnbjørn)68.916666667-29.7833333333700
1935-08-16
Gunnbjørn Fjeld, ,
First ascent		Augustine Courtauld, Jack Longland, Ebbe Munck, Harold G. Wager, Lawrence Wager
SW ridge
SW ridge. PD; 1500m, 10-15h.
  • BMG Route Card: Gunnbjørnsfjeld SW ridge, East Greenland. In this feature from the British Mountain Guides, a qualified and experienced guide chooses us a route up one of the world's most beautiful mountains. Here Phil Pool takes us to the frozen wastelands of the Arctic on a mission to explore East Greenland. By Phil Pool at UKC Climbing on 2012-03.
Schweizerland 
Mont Forel66.933333333-36.8166666673360
1938-01-01
Mont Forel, ,
First ascent		Swiss expedition of the Akademischer Alpen-Club of Zürich led by André Roch
Stauning Alps
Dansketinden72.126389-24.9552782831
1954-08-05
Dansketinden, ,
First ascent		John Haller, Wolfgang Diehl, Fritz Schwarzenbach
Norsketinden72.136111-25.0555562797
1954-08-07
Norsketinden, ,
First ascent		Danish–Norwegian expedition
Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Southern Greenland

Greenland

Lindenow Fjord
Tiningnertok (Apostelen Tommelfinger)60.598333-43.8202782291
1976-01-01
Tiningnertok, ,
First ascent		Expedition led by Frenchman Sylvain Jouty
Tasermiut fjord
Nalumasortoq (Naluumasortoq)60.386667-44.4694442045
1974-01-01
Nalumasortoq, ,
First ascent		Party from
1974-01-01
Nalumasortoq, SE face,
First ascent		SE face:
1975-01-01
Nalumasortoq, South face,
First ascent		South face:
2000-01-01
Nalumasortoq, Non c’è Due Senza Tre,
First ascent		Non c’è Due Senza Tre: Italian party
  • World Mountaineering pp.82-85
  • Nalumasortoq. On July 15, after a week of planes, trains, boats, and helicopters, Chris Chitty, Steve Su, and I began a twenty-nine-day trip in the Tasermuit Fjord on the southern tip of Greenland. We first focused our attention on Nalumasortoq, establishing a new route just right of the Left Pillar Route that shared that route's last four pitches. By Ari Menitove at Alpinist on 2002-12-01.
South side
SE face. 1974-01-01Nalumasortoq, SE face, First ascent , 1974.
South face. 1975-01-01Nalumasortoq, South face, First ascent , 1975.
West face
1000, rock face with three prominent pillars.
Non c’è Due Senza Tre. 6c,A3/5.11b; 850m. 2000-01-01First ascentItalian party, 2000.
West Face of the Third Pillar.
  • on c’è Due Senza Tre. There was just one left. The third pillar. The highest. And to put an end to it, the Greenland 2000 expedition left for the Tasermiut Fjord in the extreme south of Greenland to climb a fantastic big wall, the spectacular West Face of Mount Nalumasortoq's Third Pillar. By Antonella Cicogna at Planet Mountain.
Ketil (Uiluit Qaqqaa)60.416666667-44.5166666672003
1974-01-01
Ketil, ,
First ascent		Party from
Ulamertorsuaq60.376389-44.5422221858
1977-01-01
Ulamertorsuaq, ,
First ascent		Party from
Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Greenland

Roosevelt Range

Mara Mountain83.566666667-30.4666666671155
1998-07-14
Mara Mountain, ,
First ascent		Top of The World Expedition
Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Greenland

Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Greenland

Watkins Range

Gunnbjørn Fjeld (Gunnbjørn)68.916666667-29.7833333333700
1935-08-16
Gunnbjørn Fjeld, ,
First ascent		Augustine Courtauld, Jack Longland, Ebbe Munck, Harold G. Wager, Lawrence Wager
SW ridge
SW ridge. PD; 1500m, 10-15h.
  • BMG Route Card: Gunnbjørnsfjeld SW ridge, East Greenland. In this feature from the British Mountain Guides, a qualified and experienced guide chooses us a route up one of the world's most beautiful mountains. Here Phil Pool takes us to the frozen wastelands of the Arctic on a mission to explore East Greenland. By Phil Pool at UKC Climbing on 2012-03.

Schweizerland 

Mont Forel66.933333333-36.8166666673360
1938-01-01
Mont Forel, ,
First ascent		Swiss expedition of the Akademischer Alpen-Club of Zürich led by André Roch

Stauning Alps

Dansketinden72.126389-24.9552782831
1954-08-05
Dansketinden, ,
First ascent		John Haller, Wolfgang Diehl, Fritz Schwarzenbach
Norsketinden72.136111-25.0555562797
1954-08-07
Norsketinden, ,
First ascent		Danish–Norwegian expedition
Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Greenland

Lindenow Fjord

Tiningnertok (Apostelen Tommelfinger)60.598333-43.8202782291
1976-01-01
Tiningnertok, ,
First ascent		Expedition led by Frenchman Sylvain Jouty

Tasermiut fjord

Nalumasortoq (Naluumasortoq)60.386667-44.4694442045
1974-01-01
Nalumasortoq, ,
First ascent		Party from
1974-01-01
Nalumasortoq, SE face,
First ascent		SE face:
1975-01-01
Nalumasortoq, South face,
First ascent		South face:
2000-01-01
Nalumasortoq, Non c’è Due Senza Tre,
First ascent		Non c’è Due Senza Tre: Italian party
  • World Mountaineering pp.82-85
  • Nalumasortoq. On July 15, after a week of planes, trains, boats, and helicopters, Chris Chitty, Steve Su, and I began a twenty-nine-day trip in the Tasermuit Fjord on the southern tip of Greenland. We first focused our attention on Nalumasortoq, establishing a new route just right of the Left Pillar Route that shared that route's last four pitches. By Ari Menitove at Alpinist on 2002-12-01.
South side
SE face. 1974-01-01Nalumasortoq, SE face, First ascent , 1974.
South face. 1975-01-01Nalumasortoq, South face, First ascent , 1975.
West face
1000, rock face with three prominent pillars.
Non c’è Due Senza Tre. 6c,A3/5.11b; 850m. 2000-01-01First ascentItalian party, 2000.
West Face of the Third Pillar.
  • on c’è Due Senza Tre. There was just one left. The third pillar. The highest. And to put an end to it, the Greenland 2000 expedition left for the Tasermiut Fjord in the extreme south of Greenland to climb a fantastic big wall, the spectacular West Face of Mount Nalumasortoq's Third Pillar. By Antonella Cicogna at Planet Mountain.
Ketil (Uiluit Qaqqaa)60.416666667-44.5166666672003
1974-01-01
Ketil, ,
First ascent		Party from
Ulamertorsuaq60.376389-44.5422221858
1977-01-01
Ulamertorsuaq, ,
First ascent		Party from
Mount Paatusoq60.881944-43.7488892740
1962-01-01
Mount Paatusoq, ,
First ascent		Austro-German Greenland Expedition led by Austrian alpinist Toni Dürnberger

Antarctica

West Antarctica

Elseworth Mountains

Sentinel Range
Vinson massif
Mount Vinson-78.5252777777778-85.61694444444444892
Mount Vinson is the highest mountain of Antarctica and thus one of the seven summits. It is a massive peak with number of summits. Normal routes are easy offering no particular technical difficulties.
1966-12-18
Mount Vinson, ,
First ascent		Barry Corbet, John Evans, Bill Long, Pete Schoening
  • World Mountaineering pp.164-167
Branscombe glacier & Vinson Shin col. F; 2200m.
Normal route. Long glacier climb with no particular difficulties. From Branscombe glacier (Base Camp at 2134m) to the col between Vinson Massif and Mount Shinn. From there 5 km to the summit. Two or three high camps.
Príncipe de Asturias Peak-78.5472222222222-85.70888888888894680
1995-01-23
Príncipe de Asturias Peak, ,
First ascent		Manuel Álvarez, Alfonso Juez
Mount Tyree-78.4-85.91666666666674852
The second highest peak of Antarctica, located just 13km northwest of Vinson Massif. The peaks is far more difficult than Vinson massif and lacks the status of being the highest peak of the continent, therefore very few people attemp to climb it.
1967-01-01
Mount Tyree, Corbet's Couloir,
First ascent		Corbet's Couloir: John Evans & Barry Corbet
1967-01-06
Mount Tyree, ,
First ascent		John Evans, Barry Corbet
1989-01-01
Mount Tyree, West face,
First ascent		West face: Terry Stump
1997-01-01
Mount Tyree, French route,
First ascent		French route: Antoine de Choudens & Antoine Cayrol
Corbet's Couloir
Corbet's Couloir. Ice, 1967-01-01First ascentJohn Evans & Barry Corbet, 1967-01.
West face
West face. 1989-01-01First ascentTerry Stump, 1989-01.
French route
French route. 1997-01-01First ascentAntoine de Choudens & Antoine Cayrol, 1997.
South face
Still-unclimbed south face is 2000m face is one of the largest in Antarctica.
Mount Gardner-78.383333-86.0333334685
Mount Shinn-78.45-85.76666666666674660
1966-12-21
Mount Shinn, ,
First ascent		Barry Corbet, Charles Hollister, Sam Silverstein, Richard Wahlstrom
SW face
SW face. Ice/snow, 60°.
Normal route. From the col between Mount Vinson and Shinn.
Mount Rutford-78.6-85.34477
2006-12-09
Mount Rutford, ,
First ascent		Jed Brown, Camilo Rada, Pachi Ibarra
Mount Anderson-78.15-86.21666666666674254
2007-01-07
Mount Anderson, ,
First ascent		Jed Brown, Damien Gildea
Mount Bentley-78.1166666666667-86.23333333333334245
1998-01-01
Mount Bentley, ,
First ascent		Veikka Gustafsson, Patrick Degerman
Mount Davis3950
1998-01-01
Mount Davis, ,
First ascent		Veikka Gustafsson, Patrick Degerman
Peak 4111-78.2166666666667-86.13333333333334160
1996-01-13
Peak 4111, ,
First ascent		Erik Decamp, Catherine Destivelle

Executive Committee Range

Mount Sidley-77.033333-126.14285
1990-01-11
Mount Sidley, ,
First ascent		Bill Atkinson

Antarctic Peninsula

Mount Jackson3184
1964-01-01
Mount Jackson, ,
First ascent		John Cunningham

Transantarctic Mountains

Transantarctic Mountains

Queen Maud Mountains
Queen Alexandra Range
Mount Kirkpatrick-84.333333166.4166674528
1991-01-01
Mount Kirkpatrick, ,
First ascent		Party from
Mount Fridtjof Nansen4070
1962-01-01
Mount Fridtjof Nansen, ,
First ascent		Wally Herbert, McGregor, Otway, Pain
Admiralty Mountains
Mount Minto-71.783333168.754165
1988-02-01
Mount Minto, ,
First ascent		Australian party
Mount Adam-71.783333168.6166674010
1981-01-01
Mount Adam, ,
First ascent		Party from New Zealand
Mount Herschel-72.2169.5166673335
1967-01-01
Mount Herschel, ,
First ascent		Sir Edmund Hillary
Royal Society Range
Mount Lister4025
1962-12-01
Mount Lister, ,
First ascent		Party from
Mount Markham
1985-01-01
Mount Markham, ,
First ascent		Party from
Mount Erebus-77.529722167.1533333794
1908-01-01
Mount Erebus, ,
First ascent		Edgeworth David and party

East Antarctica

Fimbulheimen

Orvin Mountains
Filchner Mountains
Rakekniven Peak-71.97.283333333333332365
1997-01-03
Rakekniven Peak, ,
First ascent		Conrad Anker, Mike Graber, Jon Krakauer, Alex Lowe, Rick Ridgeway, Gordon Wiltsie
Drygalski Mountains
Ulvetanna (Ulvetanna Peak)-71.858.333333333333332931
Ulvetanna Peak (Norwegian: the wolf's tooth) is a sharp peak (2930m) in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Ulvetanna lies about 3km north of Kinntanna Peak in the Fenriskjeften Mountain in the east part of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. The peak was discovered fairly recently from surveys and air photos by the Sixth Norwegian Antarctic Expedition (1956–60) and named Ulvetanna. Since then there has been few ascents, all involving at least some aid to overcome steep rock and cold weather.
1994-01-01
Ulvetanna, NW face,
First ascent		NW face: Robert Caspersen, Sjur Nesheim & Ivar Tollefsen
1994-02-02
Ulvetanna, ,
First ascent		Robert Caspersen, Sjur Nesheim, Ivar Tollefsen
2006-11-20
Ulvetanna, North face,
First ascent		North face: Robert Caspersen, Ivar Tollefsen, Stein-Ivar Gravdal & Trond Hilde
2008-01-01
Ulvetanna, Sound of Silence,
First ascent		Sound of Silence: Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber & Stephan Siegrist
2013-01-01
Ulvetanna, NE ridge,
First ascent		NE ridge: Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Jason Pickles & Chris Rabone
2014-02-03
Ulvetanna, South ridge,
First ascent		South ridge: Andy Kirkpatrick,Aleks Gamme,Kjersti Eide,Espen Fadnes,Ingeborg Jackobsen,Jonas Langseth
  • Ulvetanna 2011 – Safely home. Norrøna Ambassador Robert Caspersen gives us the full story and lots of pictures, back home after his Antarctic climbing adventure:. By Robert Caspersen at Norrøna on 2012-01-05.
North face
North face. A4,5.9/5.10; 21 pitches. 2006-11-20First ascentRobert Caspersen, Ivar Tollefsen, Stein-Ivar Gravdal & Trond Hilde, 2006-11-20.
  • Huge Wall Climbed in Antarctica. Almost 13 years after making the first ascent of Ulvetanna, a striking 9,710-foot granite spire in Antarctica, a Norwegian team returned to Queen Maud Land to climb the tower’s vertical North Face. By Dougal MacDonald at Climbing Magazine.
NE ridge
NE ridge (The Last Great Climb). 5.12,A2/E6 6b,A2/C2; 35 pitches, 1750m. 2013-01-01First ascentLeo Houlding, Sean Leary, Jason Pickles & Chris Rabone, 2013.
Documented in film http://www.thelastgreatclimb.com/ The Last Great Climb The 2013 film from Alastair Lee is an epic to end all mountain epics set in the stunning mountains of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. The feature length documentary covers top adventure climber Leo Houlding with his tried and tested team of Jason Pickles and Sean 'Stanley' Leary as they attempt to make the first ascent of the NE ridge of the master piece of the range; the majestic Ulvetanna Peak. One of the most technically demanding climbs in one of the world's harshest environments. Behind the lens galleries here. THE LAST GREAT CLIMB promises to be quite simply one of the most spectacular mountaineering films ever made. Out November 2013 2013 Alastair Lee .
  • Ulvetanna: The Last Great Climb. Filmmaker Alastair Lee previews his 2013 film, "The Last Great Climb," featuring Leo Houlding, Sean "Stanley" Leary, Jason Pickles and Chris Rabone during their first ascent of the Northeast Ridge (5.12 A2, 1750m) of Ulvetanna in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Dreams become reality for this group of climbers as they ascend "the masterpiece of this range." But with unnatural beauty comes unnatural weather, and Houlding's team faces extreme temperatures as low as -31 degrees Fahrenheit with windchill. "The Last Great Climb" makes its debut in December 2013. By Alastair Lee at Alpinist on 2013-06-28.
  • Ulvetanna Peak, new North East Ridge route in Antarctica. The North East ridge of Ulvetanna Peak (2931m) in the Antarctica has been climbed for the first time by Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone and David Reeves. At Planet Mountain.
  • Climber Leo Houlding tells of 'out of this world' brutal Ulvetanna ascent. Top British climber Leo Houlding has described his ‘out of this world’ first climb of a brutal route in Antarctica, saying the expedition pushed his team to its limits. By Liz Roberts at Grough on 2013-01-28.
  • Major new route in Antarctica by Houlding and team. TIn late January, after a year spent organising the project, Leo Houlding, Sean Leary (USA), Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles and Chris Rabone stood on the summit of Ulvetanna, having made the first ascent of the huge northeast ridge. By Lindsay Griffin at The British Mountaineering Council on 2013-01-28.
South ridge
South ridge. E2 5b,A1/5.10,A1; 27 pitches. 2014-02-03First ascentAndy Kirkpatrick,Aleks Gamme,Kjersti Eide,Espen Fadnes,Ingeborg Jackobsen,Jonas Langseth, 2014-02-03.
  • Ulvetanna: In the Jaws of the Wolf. Between January 20 and February 3, a climbing team of five Norwegians and the British alpinist Andy Kirkpatrick climbed in capsule style for 27 pitches up the thrice-attempted South Ridge of Ulvetanna in Antarctica's Queen Maud Land. Kirkpatrick tells their tale of success. By Andy Kirkpatrick at Alpinist on 2014-02-28.
NW face
NW face. 7a+,A2, 70°; 990m. 1994-01-01First ascentRobert Caspersen, Sjur Nesheim & Ivar Tollefsen, 1994.
Sound of Silence (West ridge, NW buttress). 5.11-,A2; 800m, 20 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, Thomas Huber & Stephan Siegrist, 2008.
Holtanna Peak-71.98.366666666666672650
North pillar
Skywalk. VI+; 450m, 10 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist & Max Riechel, 2008.
NE face
NE face. 6b,A2; 500m.
West face
Eiszeit (Ice age). VII,A4; 750m, 24 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist & Max Riechel, 2008.
Zardoz. A4, Sco VII; 10 pitches. 2014-01-01First ascentAndy Kirkpatrick,Jonas Langseth, 2014-01.
  • Ulvetanna: In the Jaws of the Wolf. Between January 20 and February 3, a climbing team of five Norwegians and the British alpinist Andy Kirkpatrick climbed in capsule style for 27 pitches up the thrice-attempted South Ridge of Ulvetanna in Antarctica's Queen Maud Land. Kirkpatrick tells their tale of success. By Andy Kirkpatrick at Alpinist on 2014-02-28.
South pillar
South pillar. 6b,A2/3.
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