Fitz Roy (Cerro Chaltén) from the road to El Chaltén. Credit: Ankara,  Shot on 2009-08-27 Photo taken in El Chalten, Argentina.(c) Ankara, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
Fitz Roy (Cerro Chaltén) from the road to El Chaltén. Credit: Ankara, Shot on 2009-08-27 Photo taken in El Chalten, Argentina.(c) Ankara, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

Northern Andes

Venezuela

Cordillera de Mérida

Pico Bolívar8.583-71.0334979
1935-01-01
Pico Bolívar, ,
First ascent
Bourgoin, Márquez & Peña
South side
Ruta Weiss. II AD-; IV; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Pico Humboldt8.551389-70.9983334940
1911-01-01
Pico Humboldt, ,
First ascent
Jahn & Hedderich
West side
West side. PD; III; 4 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Pico Bonpland8.533333-714883
1911-01-01
Pico Bonpland, ,
First ascent
Alfredo Jahn
NE ridge
NE ridge. ~AD; 4 days.
  • Biggar 2015

Auyán Massif

Monte Roraima (Mount Roraima, Tepuy Roraima)5.143333-60.76252810
1884-01-01
Monte Roraima, ,
First ascent
Sir Everard im Thurn, Harry Inniss Perkins and several Guyanese natives

Colombia

Cordillera Occidental

Santa Marta

Pico Simón Bolívar10.835-73.6935710
~AD; 7 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Pico Cristóbal Colón10.839-73.6885710
1939-01-01
Pico Cristóbal Colón, ,
First ascent
Wood, Bakerwell & Praolini
SE side
II F; 7 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Pico La Reina10.815-73.6165536
NW slopes
NW slopes. PD/AD; 7 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Pico Ojeda10.832-73.6275490
South side
South side. PD-.
  • Biggar 2015
Pico El Guadrián10.788-73.6415285
Yje most difficult peak of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Cumbal group

Nevado de Cumbal0.955833333333333-77.88666666666674760
F; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015

Cordillera Central

Los Nevados

Nevado del Ruiz4.893-75.3245311
1936-01-01
Nevado del Ruiz, ,
First ascent
Cunet & Gansser
North side
North side. PD-; 1 day.
  • Biggar 2015
Nevado del Tolima4.67-75.335274
SW side
SW side. F; 3 days.
  • Biggar 2015

Huila

Nevado del Huila2.92667-76.032225365
West side
West face. PD/AD; 6 days.
  • Biggar 2015

Cordillera Oriental

S. N. del Cocuy

Ritacuba Blanco6.494167-72.29755410
West side
West side. F; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Concavo6.41015-72.282315180
West side
SW glacier & west ridge. PD-; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Pan Azucar5100
West side
West ridge. F; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015

Ecuador

Cordillera Occidental

Chimborazo group

Chimborazo-1.469167-78.81756270
  • Whymper (6270m-1.469167-78.8175)
  • Veintimilla (6267m)
Chimborazo is the highest mountain of Ecuador. Until 1818 when higher peaks were found, Chimborazo was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. It is an inactive volcano whose indian name means 'ice peak of the other side'. Popular climbing peak, higher and more demanding than Cotopaxi. There are few alternative routes at around PD or PD+, the best one depends on conditions. After the construction of the Whymper Hut (5000m) in 1980 below the South West Flank, the Normal Route shifted from the North West Ridge (PD, the line of Whymper's second ascent in 1880) to the Original Route (AD) up the South West Ridge. When Original Route was dry and exposed to rockfall, the North West Ridge was accessed from the hut via snow ramp below a rock tower of El the Castillo (PD/PD+). If El Castillo is dangerous, many parties now climb the lower Thielmann Glacier direct, cutting up left to gain the crest of the North West Ridge (PD/AD-: 40° hard dry ice).
1880-01-01
Chimborazo, ,
First ascent
Edward Whymper, Jean Antoine Carrell and Lois Carrell via SSW side
  • World Mountaineering pp.140-143
NW Ridge. Glacier, III PD; 40°; 1310m, 13-16h (round trip).
Normal route. Very popular route. Glacier climb from Whymper Refure via SW Face to rock outcrop at the foot of NW Ridge ("El Castillo"). From there along the ridge to Peak Veintimilla (6267m) and further to main summit.
Carihuairazo-1.406944-78.755018
1951-01-01
Carihuairazo, ,
First ascent
A. Eichler, H.L. Uribe, J. Morawiecki
AD; III; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015

Illiniza group

Illiniza Sur-0.659444-78.7136115245
II PD+; 3 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Illiniza Norte-0.659444-78.7136115116
North side
North side. II F; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015

North

Nevado Cotacachi0.360833333333333-78.34916666666674944
SW ridge
SW ridge. AD; IV; 2 days.
  • Biggar 2015
Cerro Imbabura0.260833333333333-78.18083333333334634
North side
North side. PD; 1 day.
  • Biggar 2015

Quito

Cerro Guagua Pichincha-0.1775-78.59916666666674794
F; 1 day.
  • Biggar 2015

Cordillera Central

Cordillera Real

Cotopaxi-0.680556-78.4377785897
Cone shaped Cotopaxi is one of the best known peaks in the Andes and most popular altitude climb in Equador. Easier than Chimborazo and conveniently located close to main highway and Quito. Cotopaxi is often regarded as the highest still active volcano in the world. This is not true, as there are higher active volcanoes in Chile and Peru. Reaches furthest away from the core of the Globe.
1872-11-28
Cotopaxi, ,
First ascent
Wilhelm Reiss & Ángel Escobar from the southwest
North side
Normal route from north side. Glacier, III F/PD; 40-50°; 1100m, 5,5h.
Normal route. Glacier ascent, no technical difficulties. From Refuge Jose Rives turn Yanasacha ice fall/rock barrier on the right side to gain the upper slopes.
Cayambe0.029-77.9865790
1880-01-01
Cayambe, ,
First ascent
Edward Whymper
West ridge
West ridge. III PD.
  • Biggar 2015
Antisana-0.481389-78.1408335758
PD; 3 days.
  • Biggar 2015

El Altar group

El Altar (Kapak Urku, Capac Urcu)-1.667-78.4175319
1963-07-07
El Altar, ,
First ascent
Ferdinando Gaspard, Marino Tremonti, Claudio Zardini
Sangay (Macas, Sanagay)-2.0-78.335230
1929-08-04
Sangay, ,
First ascent
Robert T. Moore
1963-07-07
Sangay, Italian route,
First ascent
Italian route: Ferdinando Gaspard, Marino Tremonti, Claudio Zardini
El Obispo
Italian route. Mixed, AD/D/nccs IV-V; 80°, IV-V; 720m, 7h. 1963-07-07First ascentFerdinando Gaspard, Marino Tremonti, Claudio Zardini, 1963-07-07.
Normal route. From camp to glacier above laguna Azul and through couloir to upper hanging glacier. Steep gully to the summit ridge and final rock wall to the summit. Rarely in condition.
arista del Calvario. IV-V, 60°.
Avoids the lower part of Italian route that is seldom in Condition.
Tungurahua-1.467-78.4335023
1873-02-09
Tungurahua, ,
First ascent
Alphons Stübel & Wilhelm Reiss
PD.

Central & Southern Peru

Cordillera Occidental

Cordillera Raura

Azuljanca ice plateau

Kuajadajanka (Nevado Azuljanka)5421
South side
SW slopes via South Ridge.
North side
North Ridge.

Rumiwain - Yarupáj

Yarupac5685
  • Sur
  • Norte
West Ridge
West Ridge. D/TD(?).
  • Biggar 1999 pp.85
  • Biggar 2005 pp.102
  • Biggar 2015
Cule (Kuli, Rumiwain)-10.434315-76.8024355580
NW Ridge
NW Ridge. PD/AD (?).
  • Biggar 2005 pp.102
  • Biggar 2015
Leon Huacanan (Leon Huaccanan)-10.392629-76.8056755427
North side
North slopes. F; 5-6h.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.101
Quesillojanca5323
  • Biggar 2005 pp.101

Chirajarca - Antakallanka

Santa Rosa5706
  • Santa Rosa
  • Santa Rosa Norte
  • Santa Rosa Chico
  • P. 5250 (Santa Maria)
Located to the south of Mina Raura and east of the road leading to it from the south.
1957-07-25
Santa Rosa, NW Ridge,
First ascent
NW Ridge: Raditschnig & Jungmair
1961-01-01
Santa Rosa, ,
First ascent
East side
1961-01-01
Santa Rosa, ,
First ascent
NW ridge of Norte
1961-01-01
Santa Rosa, ,
First ascent
West side of P. 5250
1967-01-01
Santa Rosa, ,
First ascent
North face of Chico
1982-06-28
Santa Rosa, West face,
First ascent
West face: Gian Carlo Grassi et al.
  • Kelsey pp. 1142
North Face
NW Ridge (North Face). AD/D; 1 day. 1957-07-25First ascentRaditschnig & Jungmair, 1957-07-25.
West face. Snow/ice, 50-65°; 550m, 5h. 1982-06-28First ascentGian Carlo Grassi et al., 1982-06-28.
West face of north ridge.
Pichuygocha (Pichuycocha)

Cordillera Central

Cordillera La Viuda

Rajuntay (Rajunte)5477
West side
West ridge. 1 day.
Normal route. easy.
  • Biggar 2015

Cordillera Pariacaca

Pariacaca (Azulcocha, Paryaqaqa)-11.994722-75.9930565750
  • Sur (5750m-11.994722-75.993056)
  • Norte (5730m)
Highest peak of the range. Often mistakenly referred to as Azulcocha. Features impressive SW face.
1938-01-01
Pariacaca, NE glacier,
First ascent
NE glacier: T.A. Dodge & Dionisio
2005-10-02
Pariacaca, Perú6000,
First ascent
Perú6000: Fernandez & Meija
NE glacier
NE glacier. F/PD; 40-50°. 1938-01-01First ascentT.A. Dodge & Dionisio, 1938.
  • Biggar '99 pp.87
  • Biggar 2015
SW face
Perú6000. Mixed, AI7,M8,A2/95°; 650m. 2005-10-02First ascentFernandez & Meija, 2005-10-02.
Tunshu (Tunsho)-11.89306-75.983615730
  • North summit (5730m-11.89306-75.98361)
  • South summit (5650m)
1958-01-01
Tunshu, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge:
2005-11-01
Tunshu, Aire Purina,
First ascent
Aire Purina: Guillermo Mejia, Jenny Postillos & Axel Loayza
NE ridge
NE ridge. AD; 4 days. 1958-01-01Tunshu, NE ridge, First ascent , 1958.
  • Biggar '99 pp.87
  • Biggar 2015
SE side
Aire Purina. V, AI3. 2005-11-01First ascentGuillermo Mejia, Jenny Postillos & Axel Loayza, 2005-11-01.
  • Biggar '99 pp.87

Cordillera Yauyos

Suiricocha

Suiricocha (Suyruqucha)-11.9475-76.05335495
2010-04-01
Suiricocha, North face,
First ascent
North face: Sophie Denis & Beto Pinto
North face
North face. TD+; 80°; 9 pitches. 2010-04-01First ascentSophie Denis & Beto Pinto, 2010-04.
Vicunita5538
2010-04-01
Vicunita, ,
First ascent
Sophie Denis & Beto Pinto
2010-04-01
Vicunita, West face,
First ascent
West face: Sophie Denis & Beto Pinto
West face
West face. TD+; 90°; 7 pitches. 2010-04-01First ascentSophie Denis & Beto Pinto, 2010-04.
Dos Manos5500
2010-04-01
Dos Manos, ,
First ascent
Sophie Denis & Beto Pinto
2010-04-01
Dos Manos, West face,
First ascent
West face: Sophie Denis & Beto Pinto
West face
West face. TD+; 70-90°; 3 pitches. 2010-04-01First ascentSophie Denis & Beto Pinto, 2010-04.
Ticlla (Qutuni)-12.2592-75.95865897
The highest peak of Cordillera Central.
1900-01-01
Event
East face
Dramatic face with steep rock and mixed terrain.
SE face
SE face. AD/D; 50-60°.
  • Biggar '99 pp.89
South ridge
South ridge.
Seems easy glacier climb from Paso Ticlla (4945m).
West side
West face & ridge. AD; 50-60°; 4 days.
  • Biggar '99 pp.89
  • Biggar 2015
Llongote (Llunk'uti)-12.3244-75.95425780
North ridge
North ridge.
From Paso Ticlla (4945m).
  • Biggar '99 pp.89
  • Biggar 2015

Cordillera Huaytapallana

Jallacate (Jalacata)-11.586389-74.8208335557
SE side
SE side. 3 days.
Not known but not very difficult.
  • Biggar '99 pp.90
  • Biggar 2015

Cordillera Oriental

Cordillera Huaguruncho

Huagaruncho-10.530833-75.9311115724
Despite its visual appeal, with dramatic flutes, cornices and seracs, the peak has only been climbed three times since the first ascent more than 50 years ago.
1956-01-01
Huagaruncho, West ridge from north,
First ascent
West ridge from north: British team
2010-01-01
Huagaruncho, Llama Karma,
First ascent
Llama Karma: Tom Chamberlain & Tony Barton
SW face
Llama Karma. Mixed, ED; Sco V,5/90°, V; 1000m, 24 pitches. 2010-01-01First ascentTom Chamberlain & Tony Barton, 2010.
Not to summit.
West ridge
West ridge from north. 5-7 days. 1956-01-01First ascentBritish team, 1956.
  • Biggar '99 pp.91
  • Biggar 2015
Huaguruncho Sur5150
Cerro Nausacocha (Peak 29)-10.480278-75.9422225199

Cordillera Occidental

Cordillera Ampato

Solimana group

Solimana-15.41-72.893056093
1952-01-01
Solimana, ,
Event
Mathias Rebitsch, Piero Ghiglione, Alberto Parodi & Victor Motta
1970-01-01
Solimana, ,
First ascent
Mario Bignami & Julio Blanco Herrera
  • PIGM: 31-q Cotahuasi
North side
N & NW flanks. PD; 1000m.
Normal route. Reportedly two short sections up to 70 along the couloir on NW face.
  • Kiendler pp.121-2
  • Biggar '99 pp.129

Coropuna group

Coropuna-15.5206-72.65836425
  • North summit (6377m)
  • P6171 (6171m)
  • Coropuna (SW summit) (6425m-15.5206-72.6583)
  • P6161 (6161m)
  • P6234 (6234m)
  • P6305 (6305m)
Coropuna is the largest and highest volcano in Peru, attaining an elevation of 6425m. It is located about 150km northwest of Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru. It is a huge massif with six main summits rising above 6000m. Seldom climbed due to length of approach. Climbs from other sides are probably no more difficult than the normal route from west.
1911-07-16
Coropuna, ,
Event
Anne Smith Peck
1911-10-15
Coropuna, ,
First ascent
Hiram Bingham, H.L. Tucker, Gomarra & Coello
  • Traumberge pp.115-18
  • PIGM 32-qChuquibamba
West side
West side (West rib). IV F; 45°; 1700m.
  • Kiendler pp.122-4
  • Biggar '99 pp.129
Coropuna Casulla (Coropuna Oeste)-15.5476-72.66106377
F.
Coropuna Este-15.5519-72.59556305
F.

Ampato group

Ampato-15.8209-71.88036288
Ampato is a dormant 6288m stratovolcano in the Andes of southern Peru, about 100km northwest of Arequipa. It is part of a 20km north-south chain of three major stratovolcanoes, including the extinct and eroded 6025m volcano Wallqa Wallqa at the northern end and the active 5976m cone of Sabancaya in the middle. Climbed by Incas and made famous by the discovery of "Ice Maiden" aka "Juanita", a mummified Inca girl in 1955.
1966-01-01
Ampato, SE side,
First ascent
SE side: Dick Coulbert
  • PIGM: 31-s Chivay
North Ridge
Traditional Inca route via Northn summit. Not frequented due to retrieting glacier.
SE side
SE side. III F; 1800m. 1966-01-01First ascentDick Coulbert, 1966.
  • Traumberge pp.119-24
  • Kiendler pp.127
SW side
SW side. F.
  • Biggar '99 pp.131
Hualca Hualca (Wallqa Wallqa)-15.720159-71.8604266025
Located very close to Ampato. Easily accessible from the road through Colca canyon. Routes from West and North are more difficult than the normal route from East.
East side
East side. PD; 1500m.
Normal route. Via East glacier to col between main and south summits.
  • Kiendler pp.125
  • Biggar '99 pp.131
Sabancaya-15.7871-71.85585976
F.

Cordillera Volcanica

Chachani-16.19139-71.529726057
  • Chachani (6057m-16.19139-71.52972)
  • P6010 (6010m)
  • Fatima (5852m)
Immediately above Arequipa. Easy access and lack of technical climbing makes Chachani ideal candidate for the first 6000m peak and it is accordingly frequented. The peak was climbed by Incas.
1900-01-01
Event
  • PIGM: 33-q Arequipa
East side
East side. II F; 1000m.
Normal route. Reportedly two short sections up to 70 along the couloir on NW face.
  • Kiendler pp.129-305
  • Biggar '99 pp.131
Misti-16.29444-71.408895822
F.
Nocarane-16.130833-71.5383335784
F.
Warawarani-17.42194-69.662225398
III F.

Cordillera Villabamba

NW Villabamba

Chachacomayoc (Panta, P'anta)-13.2322-73.09075660
1959-01-01
Chachacomayoc, ,
First ascent
Party from
Choquesafra (Chuqisapra)-13.226111-73.2136115152
1968-01-01
Choquesafra, ,
First ascent
Party from

Pumasillo group

Sacsarayoc-13.250278-72.825996
East ridge
From Lasunayoc col.
Pumasillo (Pumasillu)-13.24917-72.819175991
Highest peak of Pumasillo group.
1957-01-01
Pumasillo, ,
First ascent
Harry Carslake & John Longland
West side
West ridge. 2-3 days.
  • Biggar '99 pp.95
  • Biggar 2015
Lasunayoc-13.269865-72.7952395960
Slightly SE of Pumasillo.
East side
East slope & ridge. AD/D; 10 days.
Via col 5300m.
  • Biggar '99 pp.95
  • Biggar 2015
Choquetacarpo (Chuqitakarpu)-13.228889-72.8530565512
1959-01-01
Choquetacarpo, ,
First ascent
Party from

Quishuar group

Humantay (Humantauy, Tukarway)-13.3607-72.59455917
Located right next to Salcantay. Also Humantauy is most impressive from the south.
1956-01-01
Humantay, ,
First ascent
Lionel Terray
NE ridge
From col 4620 between Humantauy & Salcantay
NE ridge. AD/D; 7 days.
  • Biggar '99 pp.95
  • Biggar 2015

Salcantay group

Salcantay (Salkantay, Sallqantay)-13.333611-72.5444446271
  • West summit (6271m-13.333611-72.544444)
  • East summit (6271m)

The highest peak of Cordillera Villabamba range. It is located in the Cusco Region, about 60km west-northwest of the city of Cusco and 20km SE of Macchu Picchu. It is the 38th highest peak in the Andes, and the twelfth highest in Peru. However, as a range highpoint in deeply incised terrain, it is the second most topographically prominent peak in the country, after Huascarán. Standout feature of the mountain is impressive South face.

The peak has four main ridges: very long North ridge running close to Rio Aobamba at 3500m, NE ridge, S(E) ridge and West ridge rises from the col between Humantay and Salcantay (5000m).

1900-01-01
Salcantay, NE face,
Event
NE face: Herbert Ziegenhardt, Elmar Fries, Theo Dowbenka, Rudolf Friedhuber, Martin Klein
1900-01-01
Salcantay, North face East peak,
Event
North face East peak: Franz Hawelka, Bruno Klausbruckner, Wolfgang Axt, Saxinger
1952-08-05
Salcantay, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: Dr. Fred D. Ayers, Graham Matthews, David Michael Jr., Dr. George I. Bell (USA), Claude Kogan, Bernard Pierre (NE Ridge to East Summit)
1956-01-01
Salcantay, Terray,
First ascent
Terray: Lionel Terray, Tom de Booy, Raymond Jenny
1965-06-22
Salcantay, East ridge,
First ascent
East ridge: Takeshi Rito, Seihei Iwama, Mitsumasa Miyamoto, Tetsuju Kawada, Masami Ogawa, Yoshiaki Sawa, Reiji Horie
1968-07-17
Salcantay, S/SE ridge,
First ascent
S/SE ridge: Yukihiko Kato, Hideo Kato, Isao Asahi, Noriaki Soga
1970-07-01
Salcantay, German route,
First ascent
German route: Jürgen Vogt, Heinz Höbrich, Michael Olzowy, Heinz Hauer, Walter Welsch
1973-07-15
Salcantay, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: Piotr Malinowski, Ryszard Szafirski
1973-08-22
Salcantay, SE buttress,
First ascent
SE buttress: Michael Andrews, Peter Jennings, Wayne Barton
1978-06-15
Salcantay, SE face,
First ascent
SE face: Libor Anderle, Zoran Brešlin, Marjan Brišar, Edi Torkar, Jure Žvan, Jure Ulcar
1986-08-07
Salcantay, English route,
First ascent
English route: Pete Leeming, Mark Lowe, Duncan Francis, Paul Harris, Keith Milne
North Ridge (Polish route)
Very long North ridge running close to Rio Aobamba at 3500m.
1973-07-15First ascentPiotr Malinowski, Ryszard Szafirski, 1973-07-15.
North side
NE ridge. D; 1800m. 1952-08-05First ascentDr. Fred D. Ayers, Graham Matthews, David Michael Jr., Dr. George I. Bell (USA), Claude Kogan, Bernard Pierre (NE Ridge to East Summit), 1952-08-05.
Normal route. The easiest route on the mountain is the NE ridge. Still technical climb with 1000m of steep, exposed climbing.
NE face.
North face East peak.
Terray. 1956-01-01First ascentLionel Terray, Tom de Booy, Raymond Jenny, 1956.
SE side
S/SE ridge. 1968-07-17First ascentYukihiko Kato, Hideo Kato, Isao Asahi, Noriaki Soga, 1968-07-17.
SE face (Yugoslav Route). 1978-06-15First ascentLibor Anderle, Zoran Brešlin, Marjan Brišar, Edi Torkar, Jure Žvan, Jure Ulcar, 1978-06-15.
SE buttress (New Zealand route). 1973-08-22First ascentMichael Andrews, Peter Jennings, Wayne Barton, 1973-08-22.
SE Buttress, then East Ridge to East Summit.
East ridge. 1965-06-22First ascentTakeshi Rito, Seihei Iwama, Mitsumasa Miyamoto, Tetsuju Kawada, Masami Ogawa, Yoshiaki Sawa, Reiji Horie, 1965-06-22.
Side ridge from NE ridge joining it at 5600m.
South face
German route (South Buttress). 1970-07-01First ascentJürgen Vogt, Heinz Höbrich, Michael Olzowy, Heinz Hauer, Walter Welsch, 1970-07-01.
English route. 1986-08-07First ascentPete Leeming, Mark Lowe, Duncan Francis, Paul Harris, Keith Milne, 1986-08-07.
South/Southwest Face to East Summit.
West Ridge
Rises from the col between Humantay and Salcantay (5000m)

Cordillera Urubampa

Veronica group

Veronica (Willka Wiqi, Wakay Willca)-13.16417-72.325835682
Nevado Veronica is a very impressive, pyramid shaped mountain that towers over Ollantaytambo. Considered the highest peak of Cordillera Urubamba, albeit altitude cotation seem to vary considereably as some sources sau 5911 and some others 5800+n.
1956-01-01
Veronica, BC at 4900 below NE face,
First ascent
BC at 4900 below NE face: Lionel Terray, C. Egeler, Tom de Booy, Raymond Jenny
NE Ridge
NE Ridge. AD/D; 450m, 3 days.
Normal route. Reportedly 60-70 ice and 5.8 which doesn't really add up to overall grade of PD/AD.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.113
  • Biggar 2015

Chicon group

Chicon (Ch'iqun, Chicón)-13.23667-72.056115530
1958-01-01
Chicon, ,
First ascent
Party from

Sahuasiray group

Sahuasiray (Sawasiray, Nevado Colque Cruz)-13.21389-71.988335818
Not to be confused with higher Colque Cruz of Cordillera Vilcanota.
1963-01-01
Sahuasiray, ,
First ascent
Party from
  • Biggar 2005 pp.113

Cordillera Vilcanota

Ausangate group

Ausangate-13.7881-71.23086384
  • Ausangate (6384m-13.7881-71.2308)
  • Ausangate East
The highest peak in Central and southern Peru is Ausangate (6384m), 4th highest peak in Peru and 17th in the Andes. It is a long, rugged mountain, with two high peaks rising from its jagged summit crest towering in the southeast sky from the city of Cuzco. The lower peak rises just east of the high peak, and is separated by a small saddle. Dramatic from the north, much gentler from the south. The peak is symmetric in shape with NW and SW ridges dropping from west summit and NE and SE ridges from East summit. Main base camp of the are is located to the SE of Ausangate at 4800m. It can be reached by following the circuit trek in either direction. The same trek serves as an approach to all other base camps as well.
1966-07-12
Ausangate, NW ridge,
First ascent
NW ridge: Academic Alpine Club Munich
1966-07-12
Ausangate, North face,
First ascent
North face: Academic Alpine Club Munich
1976-01-01
Ausangate, East face,
First ascent
East face: Jean Fréhel & et al
1984-08-01
Ausangate, NW Face,
First ascent
NW Face: Louis Deuber, Harald Navé & Hans Zebrowski
1988-06-23
Ausangate, East face & SE ridge,
First ascent
East face & SE ridge: Karon & Makaran
  • Plus belles pp. 187
North face
Most dramatic side of Ausangate
NW ridge. 1966-07-12First ascentAcademic Alpine Club Munich, 1966-07-12.
NW Face. Ice, 90°. 1984-08-01First ascentLouis Deuber, Harald Navé & Hans Zebrowski, 1984-08-01.
Hanging glacier on the northwest face of Ausangate.
North face. 1966-07-12First ascentAcademic Alpine Club Munich, 1966-07-12.
East face
East face. Ice, 6 days (ascent only). 1976-01-01First ascentJean Fréhel & et al, 1976.
East face & SE ridge. Snow/ice, 1988-06-23First ascentKaron & Makaran, 1988-06-23.
South face
Easier than the north side.
South face. IV AD; 1600m.
Normal route. Technical climb up the steep icefall of the south face. Usually at least one high camp (5450m).
  • Biggar 2005 pp.115
  • Biggar 2015
  • Kiendler pp. 108-10
West face
Mariposa (Santa Catalina)-13.7903-71.20425808
1966-06-26
Mariposa, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Academic Alpine Club Munich
  • Biggar 2005 pp.116
North side
The most commonly climbed side of the peak.
  • Base camp at Pacchanta side of Jampa Pass.
North ridge. Ice/snow, 50-80°. 1966-06-26First ascentAcademic Alpine Club Munich, 1966-06-26.
Se ridge
Se ridge. D/TD.
  • Biggar '99 pp.99
  • Biggar 2015
Jampa-13.7754-71.18065611
Probably the most climbed peak in Cordillera Vilcanota. Located in the eastern part of the groups, only a little to the west from Jampa Pass through which popular trekking route goes.
North slopes
North slopes. F.
  • Biggar '99 pp.100
Huayruro Punco5550
Another popular peak
North side
North ridge. F.
  • Biggar '99 pp.100
NE ridge. PD.

Callangate-Jatunhuma

Callangate group

Callangate I (Callangate Norte)-13.710941-71.1579566000
Northernmost of Callangate summits. Somewhat unusually, I is not the highest summit of the group. No further infoirmation about the climbs, but it was climbed from the south by the Munich expedition in 1957.
Callangate III
The highest point of the group with multiple Callangate peaks.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.117
  • Biggar 2015
  • Kiendler pp.110-11
East ridge
Satan's Legs. nccs VI 5.9 M5+ WI4 65; 1100m, 2,5d. 2006-06-01First ascentMark Hesse, Chris Alstrin & Andrew Frost, 2006-06.
West ridge
  • laguna Armacocha, 1d from Tinqui via Pacchanta - Marampaqui (4120m) - laguna Armacocha (4550m)
West ridge. D; 1600m. 1966-01-01First ascentRother, Engelmann, Kerner, Mayer, Schneider, Winkler & Oberhofer, 1966.
NW face
NW face. V+, V/60°. 1985-01-01First ascentKazimierz Ambrozy, Eugeniusz Chrobak, Wlodzimierz Derda & Michal Kwasny, 1985.
Rocky buttress to North ridge.
Callangate (Collpa Ananta, Qullpa Ananta)-13.731478-71.1600186110
1966-01-01
Callangate, ,
First ascent
Rother, Engelmann, Kerner, Mayer, Schneider, Winkler & Oberhofer
Pachanta5727
Ticllacocha side
via Pachanta-Concha de Caracol col. 1 day.

Jatunhuma group

Jatunhuma (Pico Tres, Hatunuma)-13.74722-71.136676093
1900-01-01
Jatunhuma, West face,
First ascent
West face: Stephen Venables, Dave Wilkinson
1957-01-01
Jatunhuma, ,
First ascent
Expedition by Günther Hauser
1957-01-01
Jatunhuma, NW Pillar,
First ascent
NW Pillar: Expedition by Günther Hauser
West side
NW Pillar. AD/D; 1300. 1957-01-01First ascentExpedition by Günther Hauser, 1957.
Normal route. High camp on 5300m.
  • Kiendler pp.111-12
  • Biggar 2005 pp.118
  • Biggar 2015
West face. 1900-01-01First ascentStephen Venables, Dave Wilkinson.
Ninaparaco-13.7614-71.12175930
Highest peak on the NE ridge of Jatunhuma.

Caracol group

Tinki5450
1966-01-01
Tinki, ,
First ascent
German expedition
1980-01-01
Tinki, ,
Event
American party
Concha de Caracol5630
NE side
NE glacier. 1 day.

Colque Cruz-Jatunriti

Jatunriti (Chumpe, Yanaloma)-13.72556-71.081396106
Very seldom climbed peak
1957-01-01
Jatunriti, NW glacier & ridge,
First ascent
NW glacier & ridge:
2003-01-01
Jatunriti, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Amy Ballard & Peter Carse
2005-01-01
Jatunriti, Aprende a atrapar los sueños,
First ascent
Aprende a atrapar los sueños: Slovenian party
NW side
Aprende a atrapar los sueños. 2005-01-01First ascentSlovenian party, 2005.
NW side
NW glacier & ridge. AD; 1500m. 1957-01-01Jatunriti, NW glacier & ridge, First ascent , 1957.
Normal route. To Shoe col, a col at 6775 betweem Colque Cruz VI and Jatunriti). High camp at 5400m.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.118
  • Biggar 2015
  • Kiendler pp.112-13
West ridge. 2003-01-01First ascentAmy Ballard & Peter Carse, 2003.
Colquecruz (Alcamarinayoc, Allqamarinayuq)-13.69972-71.094726102
1953-01-01
Colquecruz, ,
First ascent
Fritz März, Heinz Steinmetz, Jürgen Wellenkamp & Heinrich Harrer
Yayamari (Montura, Nevado Montura)-13.767865-70.9828906049
  • Yayamari (6049m-13.767865-70.982890)
  • Sur (5800m)
1900-01-01
Event
South side
South route. PD/AD.
To south summit and traverse from there to main summit along South ridge is technically somewhat more difficult tan NW side but safer.
NW side
NW side. Ice, PD; 1150.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.119-20
  • Kiendler pp.114-15
NW Direct. Ice, III PD+; 40-45°; 1150.
Huayno Ausangate (Ausangate Chico)-13.6850-71.12625720
Name is somewhat misleading as the peaks is separated from Ausangate by quite a distance. Northernmost named peak in Colque Cruz chain.
Ichu Anata-13.7059-71.09885720
Located a bit aside from the main chain before SW face of Colque Cruz I.

NE Vilconota

Alccachaya (Intermedio)5780
PD.

Cordillera La Raya

Yana Cuchilla (Chimboya)-14.44388-70.9628145472
PD.

Cordillera Carabaya

Cordillera Aricoma

Huayna Capac (Huaynaccapac, Wayna Qhapaq)-13.897222-70.4155565721
1960-01-01
Huayna Capac, ,
First ascent
Party from
Chichicapac (Ch'ichi Qhapaq)-13.944444-70.3666675614
1900-01-01
Event
F.

Bolivia

Cordillera Occidental

Northern group

Nevado Sajama-18.100-68.8836550
Highest mountain of Bolivia and the highest mountain in Cordillera Occidental some 250 south of Lake Titicaca.
1939-01-01
Nevado Sajama, ,
First ascent
J. Prem & P. Ghiglione via SE Ridge
West side
NW ridge. Snow, nccs II 50°/AD; 50° (50m)°; 1000/2300m.
Normal route. high camp at 5700m (5-6h from base camp.
SW Ridge. nccs III 55°/AD; 55°; 1100m.
slightly harder than the normal route.

Northern group

Nevado Sajama-18.100-68.8836550
Highest mountain of Bolivia and the highest mountain in Cordillera Occidental some 250 south of Lake Titicaca.
1939-01-01
Nevado Sajama, ,
First ascent
J. Prem & P. Ghiglione via SE Ridge
West side
NW ridge. Snow, nccs II 50°/AD; 50° (50m)°; 1000/2300m.
Normal route. high camp at 5700m (5-6h from base camp.
SW Ridge. nccs III 55°/AD; 55°; 1100m.
slightly harder than the normal route.

Cordillera Apolobamba

Northern Apolobamba

Chaupi Orco group

Chaupi Orco (Chawpi Urqu, Wisk'achani)-14.63423-69.227856044
1957-08-01
Chaupi Orco, ,
First ascent
Werner Karl, Hans Richter & Hans Wimmer via East ridge

Palomani group

Palomani Grande (Palumani)-14.716944-69.2413895768
1958-06-28
Palomani Grande, ,
First ascent
Romano Merendi, Gianluigi Sterna & Camillo Zamboni

Katantica group

Katantica Central (Katantica III)-14.7746-69.16455630
1968-05-27
Katantica Central, ,
First ascent
Karl Gross & Dieter Hain
Ascarani (Azucarani)-14.7713-69.14185580
1959-07-24
Ascarani, ,
First ascent
Geoffrey Bratt, John Jenkinson, William Melbourne & Arthur Smith

Southern Apolobamba

Cololo group

Cololo (Ccachura)-14.8874-69.11295915
1957-07-23
Cololo, ,
First ascent
Werner Karl, Hans Richter & Hans Wimmer

Canisaya group

Cuchillo-15.0119-69.04225655
1965-05-28
Cuchillo, ,
First ascent
Keisuke Miyazaki & Shigeyuki Okajima
Acamani (Akamani)-15.0212-69.02685400
1961-08-10
Acamani, ,
First ascent
Kei Kurachi, Hiroshi Nakajima & Tamotsu Nakamura

Cordillera Real

Illampu-Ancohuma group

Ancohuma (Janq'u Uma)-15.8541-68.54286427
Slightly less technical ascent than Illampu.
1919-01-01
Ancohuma, ,
First ascent
Rudolf Dienst & Adolf Schulze from Cocoyo via laguna Negra
West side
West side and SW Ridge. nccs I 45/PD/AD; 45°; 1000m.
Normal route. Along the west side and SW Ridge. One camp at 5900m (7h from Sorata, other possibilities from the same high camp).
Illampu-15.8162-68.54376368
Located in Sorata Massif in the northern end of Cordillera Real (3rd highest peak of Cordillera Real). Considered to be the most difficult of the high peaks in Bolivia. Normally climbed from the village of Sorata.
1928-01-01
Illampu, ,
First ascent
Hans Pfann, Alfred Horescowsky, Hugo Hortnagel & Erwin Hein
SW side
SW ridge. Snow/ice, nccs III- 65/IV AD/D; 800m.
Normal route. Sow and ice up to 55° on the headwall (300m) to gain the ridge from the the basin of North Glacier (5600m). The ridge is mostly 30°, but short section of 55-60°.
Pico del Norte-15.8018-68.52926085
1969-01-01
Pico del Norte, ,
First ascent
Klaus Dorschel & Jürgen Gorter
AD/AD+.
Pico Schulze-15.8114-68.55455943
PD/AD.
Umalajanta (Uma Jalanta)-15.871389-68.4683335723
F.
Gorra de Hielo
1950-09-01
Gorra de Hielo, ,
First ascent
H Ertl & H Hundhammer
AD.
Esperanza
1953-08-01
Esperanza, ,
First ascent
H Ertl & H Hundhammer
D.

Chearoco-Chachacomani group

Chearoco (Chiaraco, Ch'iyar Juqhu)-15.960537-68.4129176104
1900-01-01
Event
V PD-.
Chachacomani (Chachakumani)-15.987634-68.3810516074
1900-01-01
Event
IV PD+.
Jacha Pata (Jallawaya)-16.027356-68.3509485680
PD.
Janco Laya5545
F.
Janco Huyo (Janq'u Uyu)-16.051667-68.3230565512
1900-01-01
Event
F.
Negruni5468
F.
Culin Thojo5368
F.
Wila Llojeta (Wila Lluxita)-16.051389-68.2969445244
1900-01-01
Event
F.

Condoriri-Huayna Potosi group

Huayna Potosi (Wayna Potosí)
  • Norte (6088mm-16.2644-68.1537)
  • Sur (5990mm)
Most climbed big mountain in Bolivia. Huayna Potosi is supposedly the easiest 6000m peak in Cordillera Real. In some years, however, Illimani is easier. Besides the normal routes, West Face of North Peak is a classic. There are two summits. The North Summit (6088m) is higher but the South Summit (5990m) is slightly more difficult.
1919-01-01
Huayna Potosi, ,
First ascent
Rudolf Dienst & O. Lhose
1970-01-01
Huayna Potosi, via America,
First ascent
via America: Harthorne, Harvard, Lanney & Thompson
1974-08-01
Huayna Potosi, via de los Franceses,
First ascent
via de los Franceses: Thierry Cardan & Alain Mesili
North Peak, East side
East slope & North ridge. nccs II 50°/III PD/AD-; 40-50°; 600m, 6h from Camp Argentine.
Normal route. FThe route goes through east slope and North Ridge.
South Peak, East side
via de los Franceses (SE Face). nccs III 55°/III/AD+; III/AI2/50/65°; 300m. 1974-08-01First ascentThierry Cardan & Alain Mesili, 1974-08.
Climbs the central part of the face. There is at least one alternatives, "Bodraz Muñoz" (III/AD+, 75°, 300m).
South Peak, SW Ridge. II/AD; 50°; 800m.
From lag. Zongo to Camp Argentino at 5540m (5h).
North Peak, West Face
There are several other routes on the face (~TD).
via America (Laba-Hudson). Ice, nccs IV 5.5 80°/D+; IV+, 80°; 900m, 12h. 1970-01-01First ascentHarthorne, Harvard, Lanney & Thompson, 1970.
Classic. The classic ice route of the Bolivian Andes. When conditions are poor, may feature rock up to IV+/V and ice up to 75°.
via de Lyon. nccs IV- 65°/D-; 1000m.
Condoriri (Kunturiri, Cabeza del Condor)-16.1694-68.24265648
Located in the central part of Cordillera Real. One of the most popular peaks in Bolivia.
1940-01-01
Condoriri, SW Ridge,
First ascent
SW Ridge: Wilfrid Kühm (solo)
SW side
SW Ridge (Arista SW). IV AD/AD+/nccs III 40-50° 5.3-5.4; 40-50°, III/5.3-5.4; 400m. 1940-01-01First ascentWilfrid Kühm (solo), 1940.
SE Face
SE Face Direttissima. nccs IV 65°/D+; 350m.
Pequeno Alpamayo-16.1713-68.21335400
WSW Ridge. nccs III- 45-55°/III PD; 250m.
Chacaltaya-16.349392-68.1275555395
F.
Khala Huyo5324
PD.

Illimani Group

Illimani (Illimani Sur, Pico Sur)-16.6549-67.78386438
Illimani is a long ridge that is continuously above 6000m for 8 km. The highest point is Pico Sur near the south end of the ridge. There are two other summits rising above 6000m. East Face is 1500m high, mostly rocky with seracs (TD).
1900-01-01
Illimani, ,
Event
Nicolas Jaeger, Alan Mesili (suspect) Patrick Gabarrou
1898-01-01
Illimani, ,
First ascent
William Martin Conway
1940-03-23
Illimani, SW face & W ridge,
First ascent
SW face & W ridge: Rolf Boettger, Friedrich Fritz, Wilfrid Kühn
1978-01-01
Illimani, South face,
First ascent
South face: Christian Jacquier, Alan Mesili
  • World Mountaineering pp.152-155
IV PD+.
North side
North Ridge. D-; .
South side
Hubert Ducroz (Jaeger-Mesili). TD+; WI4, 5.5; 1200m. 1972-01-01First ascentNicolas Jaeger, Alan Mesili (suspect), 1972.1988-01-01First ascentPatrick Gabarrou, 1988.
Jach’a Kuntur Ajayu. nccs VI WI4 f5+ M5 X; 1200m. 2013-01-01EventSergio Condori, Juvenal Condori, 2013.
South face. D-; 60-75°; 1400m. 1978-01-01First ascentChristian Jacquier, Alan Mesili, 1978.
West side
SW face & W ridge. IV PD/AD/nccs II 50°; II; 1000m, 5-7h from Nido de Codones camp. 1940-03-23First ascentRolf Boettger, Friedrich Fritz, Wilfrid Kühn, 1940-03-23.
Normal route. Start from Puente Rota base camp. There are normally one high camp (Nido de Condores (5450m). From there glacier to the summit.
Illimani Norte (Pico de Paris)-16.636599-67.7874626403
Pico Norte, south side
SW face. Snow, D-; .
Steep snow. Traverse from the normal route of South Peak at 5800m (above Nido de Condores camp).
German route (South Ridge). nccs III 70°/D-; 1000m. 1950-05-06First ascentHans Ertl & Gert Schröder, 1950-05-06.
Normal route. From Puente Rota base camp via Nido de Condores camp. Through prominent triangular snow field.
Mururata-16.519907-67.8165565869
1900-01-01
Event
F.

Cordillera Quimsa Cruz

Jachacunocollo group

Anco Collo (Janq'u Qullu)-16.996389-67.3291675460
1989-01-01
Anco Collo, ,
First ascent
Evelio Echevarría

High Andes

Socompa group

Cerro Llullaillaco-24.719667-68.5310836739
1952-12-01
Cerro Llullaillaco, ,
First ascent
Bión González & Juan Harseim
North side
Normal Route via North Face.

Paso San Francisco group

Incahuasi (Cerro De Incahuasi)-27.0333333333333-68.29583333333336621
Lies 25km east of Ojos del Salado on the border between Chile and Argentina. Named so, because Inca ruin was found on the summit in 1913. Can be climbed easily (F) via NW Slopes from Chile of from Argentina via north and south sides.
1913-01-01
Incahuasi, ,
First ascent
Walther Penck

Ojos del Salado group

Ojos del Salado (Nevado Ojos del Salado)-27.109611-68.542256893
Highest point in Chile and the highest active volcano in the world. Logistically climbing is easier from Chilean side. However, the climb is easier from Argentina.
1937-01-01
Ojos del Salado, Chilean climb,
First ascent
Chilean climb: J. Wojsznis & J. Szczepanski
Chilean side
Chilean climb. PD; III; 1660m. 1937-01-01First ascentJ. Wojsznis & J. Szczepanski, 1937.
Normal route. Rock tower at the summit (III, 60m).
Argentinean side
Argentinean climb. .
Nevado de Tres Cruces Sur (Tres Cruces South Peak)-27.100-68.8676748
Stratovolcano (5th highest volcano in the world), that lies 25km west of Ojos del Salado.
1937-01-01
Nevado de Tres Cruces Sur, East Route,
First ascent
East Route: Witold Paryski & Stefan Osiecki
East side
East Route. 2049m. BC at 4700m, high camp at 5450m. 1937-01-01First ascentWitold Paryski & Stefan Osiecki, 1937.
Nevado del Cazadero (Cazadero, Walter Penck)-27.183-68.5676670
Located in Argentina, some 10km south of Ojos del Salado.
1970-01-01
Nevado del Cazadero, ,
First ascent
K. Takeshita, Sergio Kunstmann & Pedro Rosende
East side
Normal Route via North Face.
East Slopes (Normal Route). 3-4 days.
Normal route. Climbed from Ojos del salado Base Camp in 3-4 days with high camp at 5800-5900m.

Pissis group

Monte Pissis (Nevado Pissis)-27.7553-68.79946793
Lies some 80 km south of Ojos del Salado, entirely in Argentina. Recent surveys show that Pissis is higher than thought, actually even higher than Ojos del Salado and thus the second highest mountain in the Andes. There are some surveys that claim it to be higher than Aconcagua, but those surveys lack backing. Normally Pissis is climbed from Argentinean side (northeast) with several high camps via North Glacier (F).
1937-01-01
Monte Pissis, ,
First ascent
Stefan Osiecki & Jan Alfred Szczepański via Ruta Polaca
1998-11-01
Monte Pissis, NE side,
First ascent
NE side: G. Almaraz & M. Cocconi
North side NE side
First ascent party climbed Ruta Polaca NC on the north side.
Pissis II (UPAME, Pissis Este I)-27.7699-68.78096790
1985-01-01
Pissis II, ,
First ascent
Jonson Reynoso
Pissis UPAME II (Pissis Este II, Ejercito Argentino)-27.7724-68.77306785
1985-01-01
Pissis UPAME II, ,
First ascent
Jonson Reynoso

Sierras Pampeanas

Agua Negra

Majadita (Cerro de la Majadita, Cerro Cordón de la Majadita)-30.420277-69.7811956266
1996-12-04
Majadita, ,
First ascent
John Biggar

Cordillera de la Ramada

Cerro Mercedario-31.9799-70.11236710
Fourth highest mountain in the Andes. 2000m high South Face is difficult but less serious than Aconcagua South Face.
1934-01-18
Cerro Mercedario, ,
First ascent
Adam Karpiński & Wiktor Ostrowski
1968-01-01
Cerro Mercedario, Japanese route,
First ascent
Japanese route: Japanese group led by Saburo Yoshida
1971-01-01
Cerro Mercedario, Austrian route,
First ascent
Austrian route: Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec and Othmar Kucera
North side
East side
Inca Route (ENE Ridge).
Normal route. From Argentiean side via ENE Ridge. F. Base camp at 3900m and high camp at 5200m (Pircas Incas).
East Face. 50°; Two camps.
via Gaballito Glacier.

Cordillera Frontal

Aconcagua group

Aconcagua (Cerro Aconcagua)-32.653431-70.0110836959
Aconcagua is the highest peak in America, in fact it is the highest mountain outside Asia. One of the seven summits. Incas named it 'The White Sentinel'. It is originally volcanic. Normal route is glacier-free and non-technical. Because of this and the high Aconcagua is very popular. Despite its relatively easy technical difficulty the success rate on Aconcagua is scarcely higher than those on Denali. The reasons for Aconcagua's challenge lie in its great height and difficult weather. The climate is generally dry, Aconcagua is subject to intense winds.
1900-01-01
Aconcagua, ,
Attemp
First sportsman attemp was made by Paul Gussfeldt with some Chilean hillmen. There is some controversial information about whether the incas climbed or tried to climb the mountain.
1897-01-14
Aconcagua, Normal Route from NW,
First ascent
Normal Route from NW: Mathias Zurbriggen. He was a member of richly financed expedition led by Edward Fitzgerald.
1934-01-01
Aconcagua, NE Glacier "Polish Glacier",
First ascent
NE Glacier "Polish Glacier": four poles
1953-01-01
Aconcagua, French route,
First ascent
French route: Robert Paragot et al.
1966-01-01
Aconcagua, Argentine route,
First ascent
Argentine route: O. Pellegrini & J. Aikes
1978-01-01
Aconcagua, East Glacier,
First ascent
East Glacier: Guillermo Vieyro, Jorge Jasson & Edgardo Porcellana
  • Top Climbs pp.62-65
  • World Mountaineering pp.148-151
  • Secor, R. J.; Kukathas, Uma & Thomas, Crystal: Aconcagua - A Climbing Guide, Second Edition, 2 Sub edition. Isbn: 9780898866698. Mountaineers Books, 1999.
  • Kikstra, Harry: Aconcagua - Summit of South America. Isbn: 1898481512. Interlink Publishing Group, 2005.
  • Fernandez, Mauricio: Aconcagua - La Cima De America. Isbn: 9789870510239. Summit Ediciones, 2010.
NW side
Normal Route from NW (Ruta Normal). F/G5/NZ2; I, 40°; 2730m, 5-9 days. 1897-01-14First ascentMathias Zurbriggen. He was a member of richly financed expedition led by Edward Fitzgerald., 1897-01-14.
Normal route. Easiest and most frequented route. Glacier free. Starting point is Plaza de Mulas.
Ibanez-Marmillod (Southwest Ridge, La Canaleta de Grajales). PD; 45°, 5.5; 2730m, 5-9 days. 1953-01-01EventFrederico Marmillod, Dorly Marmillod, Francisco Ibanez & Fernando Grajales, 1953.
East side
NE Glacier "Polish Glacier" (Glacier de Polacos). PD; 40°; 2762m, Two or three high camps usual. 1934-01-01First ascentfour poles, 1934.
Direct Polish Glacier. Glacier/ice, PD; 50-55°; 2762m, Two or three high camps usual.
Direct line up the Polish glacier on the extreme right hand side of glacier.
Polish Traverse (False Polish Glacier). F/nccs IV/AK2; 2762m, Two or three high camps usual.
Traverse from the high camp of Polish glacier route (5800m) to Ruta normal. Does not go the actual Polish glacier.
East Glacier. AD; 60-65°, IV-VI/5.5-5.9; 2762m. 1978-01-01First ascentGuillermo Vieyro, Jorge Jasson & Edgardo Porcellana, 1978.
Ascent through the east glacier located between Polish glacier and South Face. Crux is 200m high rock band (loose rock).
South face
3000m high South Face has several difficult routes
  • Plaza Francia, 4100m
Argentine route. D; 2462, 2-4 days. 1966-01-01First ascentO. Pellegrini & J. Aikes, 1966.
Considered as the best quality climb on the face.
French route. ED1; 5.9; 2462m. 1953-01-01First ascentRobert Paragot et al., 1953.

Tupungato group

Cerro Tupungato-33.35333-69.771396570
East glacier is difficult alpine undertaking while south glacier is straightforward.
1937-01-01
Cerro Tupungato, ,
First ascent
Lance & Anselmi
1937-01-01
Cerro Tupungato, Normal route from north,
First ascent
Normal route from north: Lance & Anselmi
North side
Normal route from north (Chile). . 1937-01-01First ascentLance & Anselmi, 1937.
Piuquenes (Mesón San Juan)-33.514778-69.8353616019
1933-01-01
Piuquenes, ,
First ascent
Jürgen Lüders & Otto Pfenniger
Riso Patron-33.150889-70.0644725720
1935-01-01
Riso Patron, ,
First ascent
Sebastian Krückel, Otto Pfenniger & Karl Walz
Riso Patron-33.150889-70.0644725720
1935-01-01
Riso Patron, ,
First ascent
Sebastian Krückel, Otto Pfenniger & Karl Walz

Patagonia

Andean Lake District

Volcan Lanin (Volcan Lanín)-39.632778-71.4997223717
1897-01-01
Volcan Lanin, ,
First ascent
Rodolfo Hauthal
Cerro Tronador-41.159998-71.8868533491
1934-01-01
Cerro Tronador, ,
First ascent
Hermann Claussen

Aysén

Cordillera Castillo

Cerro Palo2320
1976-01-01
Cerro Palo, ,
First ascent
Thomas Clarkson & Lauchi Duff
Cerro castillo-46.065-72.20752675
AD.

North Patagonian ice cap

Monte San Valentin (Monte San Clemente)-46.595-73.3458334058
1952-01-01
Monte San Valentin, ,
First ascent
Otto Meiling's, Argentinian team

Zeballos/Jeinimeni

Cerro San Lorenzo (Monte Cochrane)-47.591667-72.3066673706
Cerro San Lorenzo (3706m), often quoted as the second highest peak of Patagonian Andes. That obviously depends on how you choose to define Patagonia as according to some definitions there are several higher peaks further north. In any case, Cerro Lorenzo is highly impressive peak, particularly from North and east sides. NW and West sides (accessible from Chile) are far gentler.
1943-01-01
Cerro San Lorenzo, Ruta de Agostini,
First ascent
Ruta de Agostini: Alberto María de Agostini
1986-01-01
Cerro San Lorenzo, East ridge,
First ascent
East ridge: P. Fatti, E. Müller, R. Dodding & H-P. Bokker
2006-01-01
Cerro San Lorenzo, North couloir,
First ascent
North couloir: Barmasse, Bernasconi, Lanfranchi & Ongaro
2008-01-01
Cerro San Lorenzo, Nordafricana,
First ascent
Nordafricana: Jordi Corominas & Oriol Baro
NE face
Nordafricana. ED; 1500m. 2008-01-01First ascentJordi Corominas & Oriol Baro, 2008.
East ridge. Ice/mixed, TD+; 2000m. 1986-01-01First ascentP. Fatti, E. Müller, R. Dodding & H-P. Bokker, 1986.
North couloir (Café Cortado). 2006-01-01First ascentBarmasse, Bernasconi, Lanfranchi & Ongaro, 2006.
West side
Ruta de Agostini. PD+/AD-; 45-55°; 3100m. 1943-01-01First ascentAlberto María de Agostini, 1943.

South Patagonian ice cap

Volcan Lautaro-49.019667-73.5034723580
1964-01-29
Volcan Lautaro, ,
First ascent
Peter Skvarca & Luciano Pera
Cerro Murallón-49.7833-73.43332565
1984-01-01
Cerro Murallón, ,
First ascent
Carlo Aldè, Casimiro Ferrari & Paolo Vitali

Chalten Massif

Cerro Torre group

Cerro Torre-49.292778-73.0983333127
Located in Patagonia, Argentina, Cerro Torre has anything but good weather. Cerro Torre is a sphire of granite and ice mushrooms.
1959-01-01
Cerro Torre, ,
First ascent
Cesare Maestri & Toni Egger climbed NE ridge. Egger died in Avalanche taking the party's camera with him.
1970-01-01
Cerro Torre, Compressor Route,
First ascent
Compressor Route: Maestri returned and climbed SE Ridge ('Compressor Route') while placing 300 bolts on the climb. He didn't climb the final ice mushroom that caps the summit stating it wasn't really part of the mountain.
1974-01-01
Cerro Torre, Ferrari Route,
First ascent
Ferrari Route: Casimiro Ferrari. First undisputed ascent of the peak.
1994-01-01
Cerro Torre, Lost Times,
First ascent
Lost Times: François Marsigny & Andy Parkin
2008-01-01
Cerro Torre, Torres Traverse,
First ascent
Torres Traverse: Rolando Garibotti, Colin Haley
Torres Traverse
Torres Traverse (Travesía del Torre). nccs VI 5.11 A1 WI6; 6b+,C1, 90°; 2200m. 2008-01-01First ascentRolando Garibotti, Colin Haley, 2008-01.
Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre.
East face
Compressor Route (Maestri, SE ridge). ED-/ED1/nccs VI 5.10b,A2 70°; 6a,A2-3/5.10,A-2/VI,A2-3, 80°; 900m (27 roped pitches). 1970-01-01First ascentMaestri returned and climbed SE Ridge ('Compressor Route') while placing 300 bolts on the climb. He didn't climb the final ice mushroom that caps the summit stating it wasn't really part of the mountain., 1970.
Normal route. Normal route on Cerro Torre.
West Face
Ferrari Route (West Face). ED+/ED3; VI/WI6/6+; 800m. 1974-01-01First ascentCasimiro Ferrari. First undisputed ascent of the peak., 1974.
South side
Lost Times (Marsigny-Parkin, A La Recherche du Temps Perdu). Ice, ED2; VI/WI4/5; 800m. 1994-01-01First ascentFrançois Marsigny & Andy Parkin, 1994.
Gains the West Ridge from the south.
South face. VII EX+/nccs VII 5.11 A4 75°; 1300m.
Torre Egger-49.292778-73.0983332685
1976-02-22
Torre Egger, Americana,
First ascent
Americana: John Bragg, Jim Donini, Jay Wilson
1976-02-22
Torre Egger, Venas Azules,
First ascent
Venas Azules: Bjørn-Eivind Aartun, Ole Lied
South face
Venas Azules. 6b+,A1, AI6; 350m. 1976-02-22First ascentBjørn-Eivind Aartun, Ole Lied, 1976-02-22.
Cerro Mocho-49.28330000000000-73.083299999999991953
1978-01-01
Cerro Mocho, ,
First ascent
Jim Bridwell & Stranszewski
Cerro Nato-49.29738399524571-73.120809436035202797
1937-01-01
Cerro Nato, ,
First ascent
E.Castiglioni & L.Dubosc-T.Gilberti via SW Ridge

Fitzroy group

Fitzroy (Cerro Chalten)-49.271278-73.0432223440
Fitzroy is the highest mountain in the Patagonia located 3 km NE from Cerro Torre.
1900-01-01
Fitzroy, ,
Event
Lionel Terray, Guido Magnone (original variation). Alberto Bendinger, Eduardo Brener, Marcos Couch & Pedro Friedrich (Argentine variation)
2008-01-01
Fitzroy, Care Bear Traverse,
First ascent
Care Bear Traverse: Dana Drummond & Freddie Wilkinson
2014-02-16
Fitzroy, Fitzroy traverse,
First ascent
Fitzroy traverse: Alex Honnold & Tommy Caldwell
North pillar
Fitzroy traverse. 7a,C1, 65°; 3600m. 2014-02-16First ascentAlex Honnold & Tommy Caldwell, 2014-02-16.
Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja De l'S.
Care Bear Traverse. nccs VI 5.11 A0; 3 days. 2008-01-01First ascentDana Drummond & Freddie Wilkinson, 2008.
Aguja Guillamet - Aguja Mermoz - Fitzroy.
South side
California route (SW Ridge). ED-/ED1; V/V+,A1/6b/c.
Possibly the easiest route.
Franco-Argentine (Argentine variation to French Route, SE face). ED-; 50-60°, VI+,A2/VII+; 300m/6 pitches of ice + 650m/14 pitches of rock. 1952-02-02First ascentLionel Terray, Guido Magnone (original variation)., 1952-02-02.1984-01-01First ascentAlberto Bendinger, Eduardo Brener, Marcos Couch & Pedro Friedrich (Argentine variation), 1984.
Normal route. More direct line than the original French Route.
  • M, A.: The Conquest of Fitzroy. Isbn: 9781298824295. Andesite Press, 2015.
Supercanaleta. nccs VI 5.10b,A1 WI3/TD+/ED-; 5.10b,A1/6a,A2, WI3/85°; 1600m.
Aguja Poincenot-49.281267-73.0410683002
Aguja Mermoz-49.263491-73.0373672730
Aguja Saint Exupery-49.28330000000000-73.033300000000002550

Torres del Paine

Cordillera Paine

Cerro Paine Grande-50.998889-73.0952782884
1958-01-01
Cerro Paine Grande, ,
First ascent
Toni Gibbi, Leonard Carrel, Jan Bich & party
Torre Central (Paine Central Tower, Central Tower of Paine)-50.90000000000000-72.950000000000002800
1963-01-16
Torre Central, Britain route 1963,
First ascent
Britain route 1963: Sir Chris Bonington & Don Whillans
1982-01-01
Torre Central, Kearney-Knight,
First ascent
Kearney-Knight: Alan Kearney, Bobby Knight
1991-01-01
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm,
First ascent
Riders on the Storm: Bern Arnold, Kurt Albert
1992-01-01
Torre Central, El Regalo de Mwoma,
First ascent
El Regalo de Mwoma: Simonj Yates, Paul Pritchard, Sean Smith, Noel Creaine
North ridge
Britain route 1963 (Bonington-Whillans). Rock, Rus 5B; VI 5.11,A1/6c+; 650m, 18 pitches. 1963-01-16First ascentSir Chris Bonington & Don Whillans, 1963-01-16.
East face
Riders on the Storm. ABO; 7c,A3; 1100m, 36 pitches. 1991-01-01First ascentBern Arnold, Kurt Albert, 1991-01.
El Regalo de Mwoma. ABO/nccs VI 5.10,A4. 1992-01-01First ascentSimonj Yates, Paul Pritchard, Sean Smith, Noel Creaine, 1992-01.
West face
Kearney-Knight. VI,A3; 800m. 1982-01-01First ascentAlan Kearney, Bobby Knight, 1982.
Torre Sur (Paine South Tower)-50.959167-72.9952501
1963-02-19
Torre Sur, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: J. Aiazzi, A. Aste, C. Casati, N. Nusdeo & V. Taldo
North Ridge
North Ridge. Rock, nccs V 5.7,A1; 5.11. 1963-02-19First ascentJ. Aiazzi, A. Aste, C. Casati, N. Nusdeo & V. Taldo, 1963-02-19.
Torre Norte-50.944718-72.9857692248
1900-01-01
Event
Monzino. nccs IV 5.10a WI1; WI1; 400m. 1958-01-01First ascentPierino Pession, Camilo Pelissier, Leonard Carrel, Jan Bich, 1958-01.
Normal route. Via Col Bich (the saddle between the North and Central towers).
La Máscara (La Mascara)
East face
Ilusiones. nccs VI 5.10b,A3; 7a/5.12a. 2001-01-01First ascentAlonso, Martos, Pelaez, 2001-01.
South face
Duncan’s Dihedral. nccs VI VI 5.11a,A1; 6b+,A1; 700m. 1998-01-01First ascentJ. Copp, J. Merriam, 1998.
Monte Burney-52.325-73.381520
1973-01-01
Monte Burney, ,
First ascent
Eric Shipton

Tierra del Fuego

Cordillera Darwin

Buckland Peninsula

Monte Buckland-54.376667-70.3613891746
1966-01-01
Monte Buckland, SW ridge,
First ascent
SW ridge: Carlo Mauri, Gigi Alippi, Casimiro Ferrari, Cesare Guidice, Guido Machetto, Giuseppe Pirovano
2012-01-01
Monte Buckland, NE ridge and face,
First ascent
NE ridge and face: Daniel Gross, Markus Kautz, Robert Koschitzki
NE side
NE ridge and face. D; WI4/90; 1100m. 2012-01-01First ascentDaniel Gross, Markus Kautz, Robert Koschitzki, 2012.
SW ridge
SW ridge. 1966-01-01First ascentCarlo Mauri, Gigi Alippi, Casimiro Ferrari, Cesare Guidice, Guido Machetto, Giuseppe Pirovano, 1966.
Monte Giordano-54.454167 -70.2002781519
2012-04-01
Monte Giordano, Shark’s Fin Ridge,
First ascent
Shark’s Fin Ridge: Jorg Heller, Robert Jasper, Ralf Gantzhorn
West ridge
Shark’s Fin Ridge. M7. 2012-04-01First ascentJorg Heller, Robert Jasper, Ralf Gantzhorn, 2012-04.

Monte Sarmiento group

Monte Sarmiento
  • Monte Sarmiento Este (2187-54.45000000000000-70.83329999999999)
  • Monte Sarmiento Oeste (2100)
1956-01-01
Monte Sarmiento, Este, South ridge,
First ascent
Este, South ridge: Carlo Mauri & Clemente Maffei
1986-12-24
Monte Sarmiento, North face,
First ascent
North face: Gigi Alippi, Salvatore Panzeri, Lorenzo Mazzoleni, Pinuccio Castelnuovo, Bruno Pennati, Clemente Maffei, Gian Maria Confalonieri, Franco Baravalle, Salvatore Fantozzi & Luciano Bovina
1995-01-01
Monte Sarmiento, Oeste, SW face,
First ascent
Oeste, SW face: Stephen Venables, John Roskelley & Tim Macartney-Snape
2010-01-01
Monte Sarmiento, La Odisea de Magellanes,
First ascent
La Odisea de Magellanes: Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller & Ralf Gantzhorn
Este, South ridge
Este, South ridge. 60-90°. 1956-01-01First ascentCarlo Mauri & Clemente Maffei, 1956.
Oeste, SW face
Oeste, SW face. 1995-01-01First ascentStephen Venables, John Roskelley & Tim Macartney-Snape, 1995.
Oeste, North side
North face. 1986-12-24First ascentGigi Alippi, Salvatore Panzeri, Lorenzo Mazzoleni, Pinuccio Castelnuovo, Bruno Pennati, Clemente Maffei, Gian Maria Confalonieri, Franco Baravalle, Salvatore Fantozzi & Luciano Bovina, 1986-12-24.
La Odisea de Magellanes. WI4+. 2010-01-01First ascentRobert Jasper, Jörn Heller & Ralf Gantzhorn, 2010.
From Collado Norte along North ridge to the north face. Traverse North East Face to gain South East Ridge and along it to West summit. The line choice was dictated by huge snow mushrooms barring direct ascent to the summit.

Marinelli glacier

Monte Shipton (Monte Darwin)-54.75000000000000-69.483300000000002568
1961-01-01
Monte Shipton, ,
First ascent
Eric Shipton, E. Garcia, F. Vivanco & C. Marangunic

Cordillera Darwin Ice Cap

Cerro Italia group
Monte Bove-54.863333-69.09252300
1963-01-01
Monte Bove, ,
First ascent
Eric Shipton, John Earle, Claudio Cortés & Peter Bruchhausen
Monte Ada2100
2001-01-01
Monte Ada, ,
First ascent
Simon Yates, Andy Parkin
2001-01-01
Monte Ada, Parkins-Yates,
First ascent
Parkins-Yates: Simon Yates, Andy Parkin
Parkins-Yates. ED; 900m. 2001-01-01First ascentSimon Yates, Andy Parkin, 2001.

Sena Pia

Mount Lady Jane (Monte Iorana I)2340
2007-03-08
Mount Lady Jane, SE ridge,
First ascent
SE ridge: Simon Yates, Andy Parkin
SE side
SE ridge. AD. 2007-03-08First ascentSimon Yates, Andy Parkin, 2007-03-08.
Monte Iorana (Monte Iorana I)2070
2007-03-08
Monte Iorana, ,
First ascent
Simon Yates, Andy Parkin