Hiking the Alpine Circuit in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru. In the background are (L to R) Rasac, Yerupaja, Siula Grande, and Sarapo. Credit: Jeremy Frimer,  Shot on 2014-01-11 Photo taken in Chiquian, Ancash, Peru.(c) Jeremy Frimer, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
Hiking the Alpine Circuit in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru. In the background are (L to R) Rasac, Yerupaja, Siula Grande, and Sarapo. Credit: Jeremy Frimer, Shot on 2014-01-11 Photo taken in Chiquian, Ancash, Peru.(c) Jeremy Frimer, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

Cordillera Huayhuash

Overview

  • Cordillera Huallanca Group located north of Cordillera Huayhuash, between Hyahuash and southern Cordillera Blanca. There are no 6000 giants, the highest peak is Huallanca at 5470m.
  • Huayhuash main chain, north
  • Huayhuash main chain, south
  • East-West chain Long East-West chain joining Huayhuash main chain close to Yerupajá Sur. The chain runs generally from East to West containing: Seria Norte-Yerupajá col (5740m) - Seria Norte (5860m) - Rasac-Seria Norte col (5750m) - Rasac Grande (6017m) - Rasac Oeste (5700m) - Punta Rasac (5129m) - Tsacra Chico Norte - Tsacra Chico (5548m) - Tsacra Grande - P. 5589 - Huacrish (5622) - col 5320 - Ancoccancha (5450m) - Diablo Mudo (Raju Collota, 5350m) - Tapush (5223m) - Punta Tapush (4770m). All of the highest and most important peaks located west of Huayhuash main chain are located on the East-West chain main ridge. Rasac is the only 6000m peak and offers wide selection of middle grade climbs (reputed the easiest 6000m peak in Huayhuash). Routes on Tsacrsas are also around D while peaks further in the west are lower and generally easier.
  • Yanapacsac-Jurauraju Jurauraju is the highest point of separate range running in West-east direction to the west of Trapecio. Chain is crossed as part of Huayhuash alpine circuit trek from Cutatabmo (laguna Juraucocha/laguna Sarapo) in north via Punta San Antonio (5020m) to camp (4492m) in quebrada Huanacpatay/quebrada Cuyoc in the south.
  • Puscanturpa
  • Cordillera Cochapata Pariaucro (5590m) and Huagshash (5540m) are located in a separate massif to the SW of Cordillera Huayhuash known as Cordillera Cochapata or Cadena Meridional. There are half a dozen peaks ranging from 5400 to 5644. Most peaks have had only handful of ascents and not much information is available about them. Exception to this is Pumarinri (5465m), by far the most climbed peak in this area. It can be climbed with relatively short detour from the valley trek starting from camp by laguna Viconga.

Cordillera Huallanca

Group located north of Cordillera Huayhuash, between Hyahuash and southern Cordillera Blanca. There are no 6000 giants, the highest peak is Huallanca at 5470m.

Huayhuash main chain

Section of Huayhuash main chain from Ninashanca in the north to Trapecio in the south. Aside of Rasac, main chain contains all the highest peaks of Cordillera Huahuash, many of which are famous and none of which have non-technical routes (basically nothing below D, almost everything TD or more). Yerupajá is the highest peaks, but somewhat lower Jirishanca and Siulá Grande are probably more famous.

  • Northern group North of Punta Nina. Main peak is Ninashanca. Easy Cerro Mexico is the most often climbed peak of the range.
  • Jirishanca group Main peaks are Rondoy and Jirishanca which are connected with high ridge. Jirishance Chico located to the east of main ridge is by far the least difficult peak of the group. Also Tam group, two small summits rising in front of the wall formed by high peaks of northern Huayhuash main chain.
  • Yerupajá group Yerupajá and Yerupajá Chico. Both peaks are difficult from all sides.
  • Siula group Siula or Siula Grande is located in the central part of the massif. The second highest peak in Cordillera Huayhuash and probably the most famous. The peak is a long ridge on Huayhuash main chain extending from Yerupajá Sur-Siula Norte col (5730) in NW to Siula Chico-Sarapo col (col 5910) in SW. One side branch runs from North ridge towards east, another NE of Siula Grande. The latter contains Jurau A and B. Satellite peak Siula Chico located on SW ridge of Siula Grande is of importance to climbers.
  • Sarapo group Sarapo has four main ridges: ENE ridge to col between Siula Chico and Sarapo (col 5910), (E)SE ridge to col between Sarapo and Carnicero (col 5630), South ridge running from (E)SE ridge towards laguna Juracocha and West ridge from Sarapo. Three satellite peaks are located on the ridges: Yantauri on the south ridge and Sarapo Oeste and Sarapococha on the branches of West ridge.
  • Jurau group From Siula Grande first to E, then NE with Jurau B (5727m) and Jurau A (5640m). Grupo de los Juraus or Siete Comillos. Jurau peaks consists of two groups of peaks. A and B are located on a ridge running NE from Siula Grande (towards Siulacocha). The other group is located on Huayhuash main ridge between col 5630(Sarapo-Carnicero) in the north and Punta Trapecio (5010m) in the south. Carnicero is the highest of Jurau peaks, but Trapecio in the southern end of the group is probably the best known of them.

East-West chain

Long East-West chain joining Huayhuash main chain close to Yerupajá Sur. The chain runs generally from East to West containing: Seria Norte-Yerupajá col (5740m) - Seria Norte (5860m) - Rasac-Seria Norte col (5750m) - Rasac Grande (6017m) - Rasac Oeste (5700m) - Punta Rasac (5129m) - Tsacra Chico Norte - Tsacra Chico (5548m) - Tsacra Grande - P. 5589 - Huacrish (5622) - col 5320 - Ancoccancha (5450m) - Diablo Mudo (Raju Collota, 5350m) - Tapush (5223m) - Punta Tapush (4770m). All of the highest and most important peaks located west of Huayhuash main chain are located on the East-West chain main ridge. Rasac is the only 6000m peak and offers wide selection of middle grade climbs (reputed the easiest 6000m peak in Huayhuash). Routes on Tsacrsas are also around D while peaks further in the west are lower and generally easier.

East-West chain consists of multiple groups and side ridges:

  • Seria-Rosario Very long ridge towards south starts from Seria Norte separating Segya (west) and Sarapococha valleys (east) with Seria Norte (5860m) - Seria Central (5543m) - Seria Sur (5230m) - Punta Seria (5004m) - P. 5097 - Cerro Gran Vista (5152m) - col 5150 - Rosario Norte (5557m) - Rosario Central - Rosario Sur (5557m) - Cerro Nunatunga. The ridge is sharp on the upper reaches while further down it is far less intimidating. It is relatively easy to cross via col between Gran Vista and Rosario Norte (part of Huayhuash alpine circuit).
  • Rasac group Rasac peaks consists of a long North-South ridge rising between Yerupajá West glacier in the east) and quebrada Rasac in the west. Rasac Norte (5230m) - P. 5617 - Rasac Central II (5724m) - Rasac Central I (5850m) - Rasac Principal Norte - Rasac Grande (6017m). Joins East-West chain on Rasac Grande at the southern end of the ridge. Rasac is considered the easiest 6000m peak in cordillera Huayhuash and possibly also the most climbed. There are middle grade routes both of East and west sides.
  • Tsacra Chico group
  • Tsacra Grande Complex Tsacra Grande is the highest mountain west of Rasac. It consists of four peaks classified as Tsacra Grande Norte and Central are located on Tsacra Grande North ridge with Principal summit. Neither of these are very independent mountains. Oeste located on SW ridge on the other hand is far more independent. Tsacra Grande has four distinct ridges: East and SW ridges are part of main East-West chain. North ridge contains Central and North summits and divides north side the valleys to smaller quebrada Tsacra with laguna Tsacra (4753m) on the east side and quebrada Huacrish with laguna Ancoccacha, laguna Auxilio (4763m) and laguna Saquicocha (4775m). South ridge runs into quebrada Segya from between main and west summits.
  • Nevados Ancoccancha Ancoccancha group (Nevados Ancoccancha) contain section on East-West chain between Tsacra Grande on East and Diablo Mudo is west. Of the three main peaks Huacrish (Ancoccancha Principal) and Ancoccancha are located on main chain while Ancoccancha Este is located on a separate ridge towards SE from Ancoccancha Central. Naming of these peaks seem to vary quite a bit between different sources.
  • Diablo Mudo group Westernmots end of Cordillera Huahuash. Far gentler than the Huahuash main ridge and peaks further to the east.

Seria-Rosario

Very long ridge towards south starts from Seria Norte separating Segya (west) and Sarapococha valleys (east) with Seria Norte (5860m) - Seria Central (5543m) - Seria Sur (5230m) - Punta Seria (5004m) - P. 5097 - Cerro Gran Vista (5152m) - col 5150 - Rosario Norte (5557m) - Rosario Central - Rosario Sur (5557m) - Cerro Nunatunga. The ridge is sharp on the upper reaches while further down it is far less intimidating. It is relatively easy to cross via col between Gran Vista and Rosario Norte (part of Huayhuash alpine circuit).

The highest peak of the group is Seria Norte located in Yerupajá - Rasac col. It is unimpressive from the north but formidable from the south. Central and South summits are minor peaks on a long ridge running south separating Segya and Sarapococha valleys.

Rasac group

Rasac peaks consists of a long North-South ridge rising between Yerupajá West glacier in the east) and quebrada Rasac in the west. Rasac Norte (5230m) - P. 5617 - Rasac Central II (5724m) - Rasac Central I (5850m) - Rasac Principal Norte - Rasac Grande (6017m). Joins East-West chain on Rasac Grande at the southern end of the ridge. Rasac is considered the easiest 6000m peak in cordillera Huayhuash and possibly also the most climbed. There are middle grade routes both of East and west sides.

Tsacra Chico group

  • Cerros Jahua y Huacrish Cerros Jahua y Huacrish is a group of peaks located on ridge towards north of Tsacra Chico Norte. The ridge consist of the following peaks: Huacrish Norte (5167m) - Cerro Jahua Sur (4927m) - Cerro Jahua Este (5036m) - Cerro Jahua Oeste (4933m) - Cerro Jahua Norte (4862). Both Huacrish Norte and Jahua peaks have short routes (0,5-1 day) at grade F. Huacrish Norte is possible either from laguna Rasac or Tsacra (each F and a short day) and has splendid panorama towards West faces of Yerupajá and Rasac as well as North side of Tsacras and Ancoccancha.
  • Tsacra Chico Tsacra Chico has four main ridges: North ridge containing Tsacra Chico Norte and extending further to Cerro Huacrish Norte, East ridge of North peak rising from punta Rasac, SE ridge of Pricipal rising from laguna Caramarca and SW ridge rising from the col between Tsacra Chico Pricipal and Oeste. Most north side routes lead to north summit first, from where it is possible to traverse to main summit with no great difficulty.

Tsacra Grande

Complex Tsacra Grande is the highest mountain west of Rasac. It consists of four peaks classified as Tsacra Grande Norte and Central are located on Tsacra Grande North ridge with Principal summit. Neither of these are very independent mountains. Oeste located on SW ridge on the other hand is far more independent. Tsacra Grande has four distinct ridges: East and SW ridges are part of main East-West chain. North ridge contains Central and North summits and divides north side the valleys to smaller quebrada Tsacra with laguna Tsacra (4753m) on the east side and quebrada Huacrish with laguna Ancoccacha, laguna Auxilio (4763m) and laguna Saquicocha (4775m). South ridge runs into quebrada Segya from between main and west summits.

Nevados Ancoccancha

Huachrish (5622m) - col 5320 - Ancoccancha Central (5450m)

Diablo Mudo group

Westernmots end of Cordillera Huahuash. Far gentler than the Huahuash main ridge and peaks further to the east.

  • East-West main chain from col Rajupunta to punta Tapush
  • Ridge towards south from East-West chain between Ancoccancha central and Diablo Mudo Contains several Bayo peaks: Bayo Norte (Clavelcocha, 5252m), Bayo central (5250m), Bayo (Juitunhuarco, 5449m) and Bayo Grande (5023m).
  • Ridge towards NW from Diablo Mudo Cerro Nitishcocha (4929m)
  • Ridge towards NE from Diablo Mudo Very long ridge running all the way to Rio Jahuacocha, a bit to the west of Jahuacocha base camp. Forms western border of quebrada Huacrish. Generally not particularly important for climbers but integral traverse of Suerococha - Escalon is said to be worthwhile outing at AD-. Cerro Suerococha (5150m) - Punta Escalon - Cerro Escalon (5199m) - Punta Llaucha (4850m) - Cerro Yacha (Cerro Llaucha, 4843m) - Cerro Huacrish (4750m).

Yanapacsac-Jurauraju

Jurauraju is the highest point of separate range running in West-east direction to the west of Trapecio. Chain is crossed as part of Huayhuash alpine circuit trek from Cutatabmo (laguna Juraucocha/laguna Sarapo) in north via Punta San Antonio (5020m) to camp (4492m) in quebrada Huanacpatay/quebrada Cuyoc in the south.

  • Yanapacsac group Four small peaks at the west end chain. No alpine interest.
  • Cerros de San Antonio Cerros Cutatambo. Several peaks between 5000m and 5245m.
  • Jurauraju group All routes on Jurauraju's are around PD and can be climbed as day trips from laguna Jurau.

Puscanturpa group

Separate group located to the south of main Cordillera Huayhush with around 10 peaks rising to the altitude of 5100-5700m.

Climbing potential largely undiscovered except for the north side of Puscantupa Norte. Rock is of volcanic origin, causing the peaks to by generally sharp spires. Several new routes have been put up after 2000 usually involving difficult rock climbing, often combined with aid. ED and above.

Cordillera Cochapata

Pariaucro (5590m) and Huagshash (5540m) are located in a separate massif to the SW of Cordillera Huayhuash known as Cordillera Cochapata or Cadena Meridional. There are half a dozen peaks ranging from 5400 to 5644. Most peaks have had only handful of ascents and not much information is available about them. Exception to this is Pumarinri (5465m), by far the most climbed peak in this area. It can be climbed with relatively short detour from the valley trek starting from camp by laguna Viconga.

  • Huacshash group Group located in the western part of Cordillera Cochapata, SE of Huayllapa. Peaks on this group are usually climbed from quebrada Ularagra.
  • Pariaucro group W-E group of peaks on NW part of Cordillera Cochapata. Not too many routes listed in Tomé guidebook and not covered by Frimer guidebook. Chico Central and Oeste have the most routes (three and two respectively). About half of the routes listed are not given any grade, the rest varies between PD and D.
  • Yanacaico group
  • Nevados Gochapampa
  • Grupo de los Nevados Rascacielo
  • Grupo de los Cuyocrajus Located between Gochampampa in the west and Pumarinri in the east.

Huacshash group

Group located in the western part of Cordillera Cochapata, SE of Huayllapa. Peaks on this group are usually climbed from quebrada Ularagra.

Mountains

Cordillera Huallanca

Huallanca (Cumbre de los Burros, Wallanka)-9.9196-77.03695470
2001-01-01
Huallanca, ,
First ascent
David Rodriquez Lopes
2001-01-01
Huallanca, Koso,
First ascent
Koso: David Rodriquez Lopes
West side
Koso. Ice, TD; 70-85°; 500m. 2001-01-01First ascentDavid Rodriquez Lopes, 2001.
Quicash (Kikash)-10.054444-77.1000005338
1984-01-01
Quicash, ,
First ascent
Party from

Huayhuash main

Huayhuash North

Ninashanca-10.213333-76.9141675607
Northernmost major peak of Cordillera Huayhuash, located between lagunas Solteracocha and Jahuacocha in the west and Mitucocha in the east and punta garagocha (4890m) in the north and punta Nina in the south. Can be climbed from both west and east sides. East is technically much easier, but approach is very problematic due to badly broken glacier. Difficult from NW.
1954-06-10
Ninashanca, Flanco NE y arista N,
First ascent
Flanco NE y arista N: H. Klier & W. Gruber
1961-01-01
Ninashanca, ENE Ridge,
First ascent
ENE Ridge: Bonatti, Oggioni & Ferrario
1979-06-04
Ninashanca, Espolón O,
First ascent
Espolón O: B. Hall & Alan Rouse
1979-08-01
Ninashanca, Contrafuerte SE,
First ascent
Contrafuerte SE: E. Wurm & H. Condin
1981-07-16
Ninashanca, NNW Face,
First ascent
NNW Face: Janusz Baranek & A. Czok
1984-08-07
Ninashanca, South Face,
First ascent
South Face: E. Rosso, G. Lanza & E. Contini
NE side
Approach is very problematic due to badly broken glacier
  • Biggar 1999 pp.80 lists NE Ridge (D, 45, III)
ENE Ridge. Glacier, AD+; 700m. 1961-01-01First ascentBonatti, Oggioni & Ferrario, 1961.
Flanco NE y arista N (NNE Ridge). Glacier, AD-; 400m, 6-7h. 1954-06-10First ascentH. Klier & W. Gruber, 1954-06-10.
  • Frimer #40
  • Tomé 86#1 (D+)
South Face
Contrafuerte SE. TD; 1000m, 1d. 1979-08-01First ascentE. Wurm & H. Condin, 1979-08.
  • Tomé 86#2
South Face. D; 75-90°; 400m, 1-2d. 1984-08-07First ascentE. Rosso, G. Lanza & E. Contini, 1984-08-07.
500m snow face, then series of steep couloirs.
SW side
Steep mixed (mainly icy) face. No routes.
NW side
NNW Face. Rock/ice, TD-; IV; 800m, 10h. 1981-07-16First ascentJanusz Baranek & A. Czok, 1981-07-16.
Complex route through centre of triangular face.
Espolón O (NW Spur). Snow/rock, TD; III-IV, 60°; 800m, 20h. 1979-06-04First ascentB. Hall & Alan Rouse, 1979-06-04.
Climbs the ridge separating wets side to ice SW and mixed NW faces. Virtually no objective danger.
Cerro Mexico (Cerro Patarcocha)-10.2213/-76.92995052
Minor rock peak located at the foot of Rondoy's West Ridge, NE of lag. Solteracocha. Usefull for acclimatization and taking in panorama or snapping pictures, other than that not much interest for climbers.
1959-01-01
Cerro Mexico, NW ridge,
First ascent
NW ridge: Morales, Vargas, Labastida & Garcia
1968-06-03
Cerro Mexico, Pared Oeste,
First ascent
Pared Oeste: P. Barry, J. Brooks & R. Brooks
NW ridge
NW ridge. F+; 200m, 1000m from the valley. 1959-01-01First ascentMorales, Vargas, Labastida & Garcia, 1959.
Normal route. Ridge starting from Sambuya pass (4740m). Mostly easy with short sections of steep rock. Often climbed as a day trip from Jahuacocha BC.
  • Frimer #3
  • Tomé 91#1 (AD+, IV)
Pared Oeste. D+; IV; 150m. 1968-06-03First ascentP. Barry, J. Brooks & R. Brooks, 1968-06-03.
  • Tomé 91#2

Jirishanca group

Rondoy-10.2275-76.91505870
  • Rondoy Norte (5870m-10.2275-76.9150)
  • Rondoy Sur (5820m-10.2275-76.9150)
  • Rondoy Chico (5500m)
Summit itself is nowhere near as imposant as Jirishanca or Yerupajá but NW and SW faces are very much impressive enough offering few highly technical routes. North Ridge from punta Nina is probably the easiest ascent and has usually been used as a descent, but details regarding to it are scarce. West ridge leads to Cerro Mexico and SE ridge is part of Huayhuash main chain leading to Mituraju. North and South summits are connected by precarious corniced ridge. First ascent is described in
1900-01-01
Rondoy, ,
Event
Walter Bonatti & Andrea Oggioni (North summit) Peter Bebbignton, Dave Condict, Pete Farrell, Charles Powell, Graham Sandler & Victor Walsh
1977-06-18
Rondoy, Cara Oeste,
First ascent
Cara Oeste: Alan Rouse & Rab Carrington
1982-01-01
Rondoy, SW Face,
First ascent
SW Face: Dusan Becík & Jan Porvazník
2006-06-26
Rondoy, Bagabiltza,
First ascent
Bagabiltza: Aritza Monasterio & Mikel Saez de Urabain
North Ridge
Along Huayhuash main chain rising from punta Nina.
North ridge. TD+; 60°, III-IV; 800m, 2 days. 1961-06-06First ascentWalter Bonatti & Andrea Oggioni (North summit), 1961-06-06.1963-08-06First ascentPeter Bebbignton, Dave Condict, Pete Farrell, Charles Powell, Graham Sandler & Victor Walsh, 1963-08-06.
N ridge to north summit, from there 1km ridge to main summit.
West face
Rondoy West face located to the south of Rondoy West ridge is wide and very steep wall forming the eastern border of Tam and Yerupajá West glaciers. It is one of the steepest and most difficult faces in Huayhuash. Prominent ice funnel formation is landmark feature on the face.
SW Face. Rock/mixed, ED3; 90°, V,A2; 1000m. 1982-01-01First ascentDusan Becík & Jan Porvazník, 1982.
Bagabiltza. Ice, TD+; VII/WI5. 2006-06-26First ascentAritza Monasterio & Mikel Saez de Urabain, 2006-06-26.
Through prominent ice funnel.
NW face
North of West ridge
Cara Oeste (NW Face). Mixed, ED2; 1000m. 1977-06-18First ascentAlan Rouse & Rab Carrington, 1977-06-18.
Ends on ridge between north and main summits.
Mituraju-10.23-76.9141675750
Peak itself as hardly remarkable bumb on the main ridge between Rondoy Sur and Jirishanca Norte but SW side has few interesting looking ice and mixed routes between TD and ED and around 700m high.
1982-06-22
Mituraju, ,
First ascent
D. Becík & J. Stejskal
1982-06-22
Mituraju, SSW Face,
First ascent
SSW Face: D. Becík & J. Stejskal
2006-01-01
Mituraju, Mania wiellkosci nova drogia,
First ascent
Mania wiellkosci nova drogia: Mariusz Nowak & Alfred Sasgórnik
2010-06-05
Mituraju, Está el barrio que da miedo,
First ascent
Está el barrio que da miedo: Silvestre Barrientos & Alex Corpas
2010-06-06
Mituraju, Pim Pam Toma Cornisazu,
First ascent
Pim Pam Toma Cornisazu: Daniela Crespo & Mikela Bonilla
1982-06-22
Mituraju, SSW Face,
First ascent
SSW Face: D. Becík & J. Stejskal
2006-01-01
Mituraju, Mania wiellkosci nova drogia,
First ascent
Mania wiellkosci nova drogia: Mariusz Nowak & Alfred Sasgórnik
2010-06-05
Mituraju, Está el barrio que da miedo,
First ascent
Está el barrio que da miedo: Silvestre Barrientos & Alex Corpas
2010-06-06
Mituraju, Pim Pam Toma Cornisazu,
First ascent
Pim Pam Toma Cornisazu: Daniela Crespo & Mikela Bonilla
SW side
700m fluted ice/mixed face above Yerupajá West glacier. Most of the routes are fairly recent. These are somewhat shorter and possibly slightly easier alternatives to SW face of Rondoy and West face of Jirishanca. Descent by abseiling.
Está el barrio que da miedo. Ice, TD+; M5 WI5/90°; 750m, 1 day. 2010-06-05First ascentSilvestre Barrientos & Alex Corpas, 2010-06-05.
Ends at the ridge, to the left of the summit.
Pim Pam Toma Cornisazu. Mixed/ice, TD+; M5 WI5/90°; 750m, 1 day. 2010-06-06First ascentDaniela Crespo & Mikela Bonilla, 2010-06-06.
Mania wiellkosci nova drogia. Ice/mixed, ED; WI5 M5; 700m. 2006-01-01First ascentMariusz Nowak & Alfred Sasgórnik, 2006.
SSW Face. Ice, TD-; 65°; 600m, 2 days. 1982-06-22First ascentD. Becík & J. Stejskal, 1982-06-22.
Direct ice route up a single fluting. Reportedly similar to Ferrari on Alpamayo, just twice as long.
Jirishanca (Jirishanka)-10.236730-76.9058366094
  • Jirishanca Norte (5989m)
  • Jirishanca Grande (6094m-10.236730-76.905836)

Spectacular pyramid located in the northern part of Cordillera Huayhuash, close to Yerupaja. Sometimes called as "Matterhorn of the Andes", and reputedly worth travelling half the world for. Notoriously difficult (together with Chacraraju considered the most difficult 6000m peak in the Andes) which should not come as a great surprise to anyone who has seen the mountain. Definitely up there with the likes of Macchapucchare, Ama Dablam etc. when talking about the most striking peaks anywhere.

Jirishanca is located right on Hyayhuash main ridge. Its NW ridge rises from col between Mituraju and Jirishanca over North summit to main summit. South ridge drops from the summit to col between Jirishanca and Yerupajá Chico. Third main ridge runs NE of main summit to Jirishanca Chico. There are two smaller ridges, one NE of Jirishanca Norte and one towards SE a bit south of main summit.

1957-01-01
Jirishanca, Pilar E, arista NE,
First ascent
Pilar E, arista NE: Toni Egger, Siegfried Jungmeier
1964-07-30
Jirishanca, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: G. Denny, G. Colliver, L.N. Patterson & L. Wilson
1967-01-01
Jirishanca, Ruta Japonesa,
First ascent
Ruta Japonesa: T. Kato & H. Takana
1969-07-06
Jirishanca, Cassin,
First ascent
Cassin: Ricardo Cassin, M. Airoldi, C. Ferrari, G. Lafranconi, Franzetta, S. Liati & A. Zucchi
1971-08-02
Jirishanca, British-American,
First ascent
British-American: Dean Caldwell & Jon Bowlin
1973-07-06
Jirishanca, Japanese,
First ascent
Japanese: Okada, N. Nakatsuka, Sato, S. Yoshiga & M. Shinohara
1982-06-14
Jirishanca, Czech-Slovak,
First ascent
Czech-Slovak: Z. Drlík & J. Stejskal
1982-07-16
Jirishanca, Ruta Polaca,
First ascent
Ruta Polaca: M. Pawlikovksi & B. Probulski
1986-07-12
Jirishanca, Slovenian,
First ascent
Slovenian: S. Sveticic & Z. Trusnovec
2003-01-01
Jirishanca, Tambo, Churros y Amigos,
First ascent
Tambo, Churros y Amigos: Ameriye Clouet & Didier Jourdain
2003-06-01
Jirishanca, Fear and Loathing,
First ascent
Fear and Loathing: Alan Powell & Nick Buttock
2003-07-21
Jirishanca, Suerte,
First ascent
Suerte: Stefano Deluca, Paolo Stoppini & Alessandro Piccini
NE face
Above Jirishanca N glacier and lagunas Ninacocha and Mitucocha.
North Ridge. D; III-V, 60-90°; 800m. 1964-07-30First ascentG. Denny, G. Colliver, L.N. Patterson & L. Wilson, 1964-07-30.
The easiest route on Jirishanca, but leads to lower North summit rather than the main summit.
Ruta Japonesa (NE Face). ED2; 70/85°; 800m, 3 d. 1967-01-01First ascentT. Kato & H. Takana, 1967.
Pilar E, arista NE (East Buttress). ED1; V/VI, 90°; 800m, 3d. 1957-01-01First ascentToni Egger, Siegfried Jungmeier, 1957.
East Pillar
Suerte. ED2; 6c+,A2, WI5+; 1100m. 2003-07-21First ascentStefano Deluca, Paolo Stoppini & Alessandro Piccini, 2003-07-21.
Joins East Buttress route. Mostly free between 5-6c+ with handful of section of A1 and A2. Around 40 bolts placed by the FA team.
SE face
Above Chaclan lake. Possibly the mightiest wall in Cordillera Huayhuash offering extensive mixed ground for elite alpinists.
Tambo, Churros y Amigos. ED3/4; 7a,A2, 95°/M4; 1100m, 32 pitches. 2003-01-01First ascentAmeriye Clouet & Didier Jourdain, 2003.
Japanese. ED2; 1100m. 1973-07-06First ascentOkada, N. Nakatsuka, Sato, S. Yoshiga & M. Shinohara, 1973-07-06.
First route on SE Face. Huge siege effort taking 1,5 months. Located on the left side of East Pillar.
Fear and Loathing. Ice, VII ED3/4; VII/WI6+/Sco VII++, A2; 1050m, 25 pitches. 2003-06-01First ascentAlan Powell & Nick Buttock, 2003-06.
First ascent in the central part of the face. Very steep, technical and daring route. Joins '57 route on East Buttress for the upper part. The FA party did not reach the summit.
West Face
West face of Jirishance rises above Tam glacier (Yerupajá West glacier). The face is characterized by sharp snowy buttress dropping from a summit ridge to around half height before ending in rocky wall. To its left side an open couloir drops from a col between North and Main summits.
Spanish. ED1; 800m.
Ruta Polaca (Polish). TD; IV, 60°; 900m, 13h. 1982-07-16First ascentM. Pawlikovksi & B. Probulski, 1982-07-16.
Cassin (West Rib). Ice/mixed, TD; 60-70°, IV+; 750m. 1969-07-06First ascentRicardo Cassin, M. Airoldi, C. Ferrari, G. Lafranconi, Franzetta, S. Liati & A. Zucchi, 1969-07-06.
Normal route, classic. More difficult than SW face, particularly on rock. Loose rock. Virtually no objective danger.
Slovenian. TD; IV, 60-80°; 800m, 1-2d. 1986-07-12First ascentS. Sveticic & Z. Trusnovec, 1986-07-12.
Goes to the right of the central rocks (65). Large bergschrund and two serac zones. Joins West ridge.
  • Frimer #10
  • Biggar 2005 pp.96
  • Kiendler #C1
  • Tomé 95#6 (ED)
British-American (American). TD; 60-70°; 700m. 1971-08-02First ascentDean Caldwell & Jon Bowlin, 1971-08-02.
Czech-Slovak (Czech). Snow, TD+; V, 70-90°; 700m. 1982-06-14First ascentZ. Drlík & J. Stejskal, 1982-06-14.
Stunning direct line.
Jirishanca Chico-10.2302-76.89225446
  • Jirishanca Chico (5446m-10.2302-76.8922)
  • Jirishanca Chico Oeste (5270m)
  • Nevado Alcay (5300m)
  • P. 5125 (5446m)
  • Jirishanca Chico Este (Carhuaraju) (5002m)
Located to NE of Jirishanca, below Jirishanca East Buttress.
1954-07-29
Jirishanca Chico, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: S. Aeberli & W. Marimer
1961-05-31
Jirishanca Chico, West Ridge,
First ascent
West Ridge: H. Wels, M. Jordan, G. Wolf, H. Albrecht, Bloss & Bunsack
1966-07-04
Jirishanca Chico, Arista N,
First ascent
Arista N:
1966-07-04
Jirishanca Chico, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: M. Sturm & C. Sturm
1967-01-01
Jirishanca Chico, NW Face,
First ascent
NW Face: Iwatani & Oestemer
1984-08-02
Jirishanca Chico, Pared SE,
First ascent
Pared SE: E. Contini, G. Lanza & E. Rosso
2002-01-01
Jirishanca Chico, Sweet Child of Mine,
First ascent
Sweet Child of Mine: Azman & Zalokar
North ridge
Arista N. 1000m. 1966-07-04Jirishanca Chico, Arista N, First ascent , 1966-07-04.
  • Tomé 99#1
East side
East Ridge. AD; 45°; 400/1000m. 1954-07-29First ascentS. Aeberli & W. Marimer, 1954-07-29.
Normal route. Can be gained either from north or south.
SE face
Pared SE. Rock/mixed, TD; IV, 65°; 900m. 1984-08-02First ascentE. Contini, G. Lanza & E. Rosso, 1984-08-02.
  • Tomé 99#3
Sweet Child of Mine. TD-; M4+/5/65-75°; 400m. 2002-01-01First ascentAzman & Zalokar, 2002.
SW Face
Unclimbed.
West Ridge
Towards Jirishanca
West Ridge. Snow, D-; 250/1000m. 1961-05-31First ascentH. Wels, M. Jordan, G. Wolf, H. Albrecht, Bloss & Bunsack, 1961-05-31.
Via Jirishanca-Jirishanca Chico col (5200m), 1km ridge to summit.
NW side
North Ridge. Rock/snow, AD; 350m. 1966-07-04First ascentM. Sturm & C. Sturm, 1966-07-04.
Either from Muticocha BC or from Chaclan lake.
NW Face. Snow, D; 350m. 1967-01-01First ascentIwatani & Oestemer, 1967.
Tam Sur-10.2497-76.91115545
Minor peak between Tam and Yerupajá West glaciers. Should have stunning panorama towards West Faces of Rondoy, Mituraju, Jirishanca and Yerupajá.
1966-01-01
Tam Sur, Eastern slopes,
First ascent
Eastern slopes: Debrunner, Roth & Schill
1977-06-01
Tam Sur, West Buttress,
First ascent
West Buttress: G. Esche & E. Schillinger
Eastern slopes
Eastern slopes. F+; 600m. 1966-01-01First ascentDebrunner, Roth & Schill, 1966.
  • Frimer #13
West side
West Buttress. AD; 60°; 300m. 1977-06-01First ascentG. Esche & E. Schillinger, 1977-06.
Tam Norte-10.2443-76.91355457
  • Tomé 105

Yerupajá group

Yerupajá (Yerupaja, Yerupaya)-10.2674-76.90536617
  • Yerupajá Norte (6340m-10.266192-76.905934)
  • Yerupajá Grande (6617m-10.2674-76.9053)
  • Yerupajá Sur (6515m-10.274299-76.906449)

Yerupajá is the highest mountain in Cordillera Huayhuash, third highest in Peru (after both Huascarans) and 13 highest peak in the Andes. Despite its its status as the highest peak around and its dominant presence, it is sometimes overshadowed by its lower neighbours of Jirishanca (6094m) and Siula Grande (6344m).

Yerupajá is located right on the Huayhuash main ridge extending from col Toro (5750m, -10.259519,-76.906878, Yerupajá Chico - Yerupajá) at the foot of North ridge to Yerupajá Sur - Siula Grande col (5730m, -10.284687,-76.901085) on SE ridge. There are three summits along the ridge, Norte, Grande and Sur. From Sur, SW ridge drops to Yerupajá-Seria Norte col (5740m, -10.27772,-76.915805) from where long Huahuash East-West ridge starts.

East face is split by smaller ridge towards NE from Yerupajá Grande dividing the face to NE face above laguna Chaclan and Yerupajá East glacier and (S)E face above laguna Yerupajá and Yerupajá SE glacier. South face rises from Yerupajá South glacier above laguna Sarapococha to South summit. Broad West face rises above to Yerupajá West glacier above laguna Jahuacocha. Much narrower NW face rises between NW Spur and North ridge leading to Yerupajá Norte.

All routes are difficult, there are only few successful ascents. West Face and SW Ridge have been the most used route but it has been out of condition during the recent years. Currently more remote East face may be easier.

1900-01-01
Yerupajá, ,
Event
Roger Bates & Graham Dingle to North summit D. Wilkinson & R. Renshaw to main summit Santiago Quintero soloed a variation in 17h.
1950-07-31
Yerupajá, America,
First ascent
America: Maxwell & Harrah
1964-01-01
Yerupajá, Flanco SE al pico Sur,
First ascent
Flanco SE al pico Sur: C. Comesaña & J. Fonrouge
1964-01-01
Yerupajá, Cara O y arista S-SO,
First ascent
Cara O y arista S-SO: J. Peterek & A. Weber
1965-01-01
Yerupajá, West Face & SW Ridge,
First ascent
West Face & SW Ridge: Marti, Wyniger, Schmied & Feitknecht
1966-07-12
Yerupajá, West Face Direct,
First ascent
West Face Direct: Leif Norman Patterson & Jorge Peterek
1968-07-30
Yerupajá, American,
First ascent
American: Paul Dix & Chris Jones
1969-06-24
Yerupajá, Espolón E Pilar, contrafuerte al pico Principal,
First ascent
Espolón E Pilar, contrafuerte al pico Principal: S. Mayerl & E. Wurm
1976-01-01
Yerupajá, NW Face to N Ridge,
First ascent
NW Face to N Ridge: Kouda, Yoshino & Huayashi
1977-01-01
Yerupajá, South Face,
First ascent
South Face: Rab Carrington & Al Rouse
1977-06-18
Yerupajá, Slovenian,
First ascent
Slovenian: M. Manfreda & J. Dowzan
1981-01-01
Yerupajá, SSW Ridge,
First ascent
SSW Ridge: Fedeli, Bramati, Besara, Simonetto, Fumagalli & Arcari
1981-01-01
Yerupajá, Czech,
First ascent
Czech: Jrajèík, Kulhvý & Porvasník
1982-01-01
Yerupajá, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: Vialardi, Budone & Penasa
1996-01-01
Yerupajá, Two Tools Dig It,
First ascent
Two Tools Dig It: Glick, McClannan, Donahue & Hall
2003-07-30
Yerupajá, Limitless Madness,
First ascent
Limitless Madness: Matevz Kramer, Matej Mejovsek & Tadej Zorman
1900-01-01
Yerupajá, ,
Event
Roger Bates & Graham Dingle to North summit D. Wilkinson & R. Renshaw to main summit Santiago Quintero soloed a variation in 17h.
1950-07-31
Yerupajá, America,
First ascent
America: Maxwell & Harrah
1964-01-01
Yerupajá, Flanco SE al pico Sur,
First ascent
Flanco SE al pico Sur: C. Comesaña & J. Fonrouge
1964-01-01
Yerupajá, Cara O y arista S-SO,
First ascent
Cara O y arista S-SO: J. Peterek & A. Weber
1965-01-01
Yerupajá, West Face & SW Ridge,
First ascent
West Face & SW Ridge: Marti, Wyniger, Schmied & Feitknecht
1966-07-12
Yerupajá, West Face Direct,
First ascent
West Face Direct: Leif Norman Patterson & Jorge Peterek
1968-07-30
Yerupajá, American,
First ascent
American: Paul Dix & Chris Jones
1969-06-24
Yerupajá, Espolón E Pilar, contrafuerte al pico Principal,
First ascent
Espolón E Pilar, contrafuerte al pico Principal: S. Mayerl & E. Wurm
1976-01-01
Yerupajá, NW Face to N Ridge,
First ascent
NW Face to N Ridge: Kouda, Yoshino & Huayashi
1977-01-01
Yerupajá, South Face,
First ascent
South Face: Rab Carrington & Al Rouse
1977-06-18
Yerupajá, Slovenian,
First ascent
Slovenian: M. Manfreda & J. Dowzan
1981-01-01
Yerupajá, SSW Ridge,
First ascent
SSW Ridge: Fedeli, Bramati, Besara, Simonetto, Fumagalli & Arcari
1981-01-01
Yerupajá, Czech,
First ascent
Czech: Jrajèík, Kulhvý & Porvasník
1982-01-01
Yerupajá, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: Vialardi, Budone & Penasa
1996-01-01
Yerupajá, Two Tools Dig It,
First ascent
Two Tools Dig It: Glick, McClannan, Donahue & Hall
2003-07-30
Yerupajá, Limitless Madness,
First ascent
Limitless Madness: Matevz Kramer, Matej Mejovsek & Tadej Zorman
NE Face
Ne face rises above laguna Chaclan and Yerupajá East glacier. Base of the face at about 5300m. Several routes, all 1000m and ED1-2.
Slovenian. ED1; 65°, III; 1000m. 1977-06-18First ascentM. Manfreda & J. Dowzan, 1977-06-18.
American. ED2; 65°, III; 1150m. 1968-07-30First ascentPaul Dix & Chris Jones, 1968-07-30.
Espolón E Pilar, contrafuerte al pico Principal (East Ridge Variation). ED1; 1300m. 1969-06-24First ascentS. Mayerl & E. Wurm, 1969-06-24.
Limitless Madness. VI, WI6, 5c; 1900m, 38 pitches. 2003-07-30First ascentMatevz Kramer, Matej Mejovsek & Tadej Zorman, 2003-07-30.
East side
(S)E face above laguna Yerupajá and Yerupajá SE glacier.
East Ridge. ED2; 1300m. 1982-01-01First ascentVialardi, Budone & Penasa, 1982.
Flanco SE al pico Sur (East Face). D+; 65°; 900m. 1964-01-01First ascentC. Comesaña & J. Fonrouge, 1964.
South face
Beautiful triangular snow face leading to South summit above Yerupajá South glacier above laguna Sarapococha. To continue from there to main summit involves climbing SW ridge. Right hand border of the face is formed by very long SE ridge rising from Yerupaja Sur - Siula Grande col. Left hand side of the face is formed by SSW ridge. Featured on the cover of Frimer's guidebook.
SSW Ridge. TD-; 1200m. 1981-01-01First ascentFedeli, Bramati, Besara, Simonetto, Fumagalli & Arcari, 1981.
South Face. Mixed, TD+; 55-70°; 1300m (47 pitches). 1977-01-01First ascentRab Carrington & Al Rouse, 1977.
Central line on the face. Upper rock band is turned on SE ridge (left hand side).
Two Tools Dig It. TD; WI4 AI4+; 700m. 1996-01-01First ascentGlick, McClannan, Donahue & Hall, 1996.
Join SE Ridge at 5950m. FA party stopped there.
SE Ridge. Snow ridge,
Unclimbed. Very long ridge. Attempted in 1936, still unclimbed.
West side
1000m high broad face of mostly ice rises above to Yerupajá West glacier above laguna Jahuacocha. It is framed by NW Spur leading to North summit on the left hand side and SW ridge rising from Yerupajá-Seria Norte col (5740m) over South summit. During the recent times the central part of the face has been highly serious due to looming seracs.
West Face & SW Ridge (SW Ridge). Snow/ice, D; 60°; 800m, 12h. 1965-01-01First ascentMarti, Wyniger, Schmied & Feitknecht, 1965.
Normal route, classic. From Yerupaja-Seria Nortre Col (5740m) to along the RHS of West Face to South summit (6515m) and along SW ridge to main summit. Snow slope with seracs up to 60° to the South Summit followed by the traverse along SW Ridge (may be corniced) to main summit. There are three bergschrunds, two of which involve vertical climbing.
West Face Direct. TD; 55-65°; 900m. 1966-07-12First ascentLeif Norman Patterson & Jorge Peterek, 1966-07-12.
Climbs the face directly to the north side of main summit from laguna Jahuacocha. Severe serac fall danger. If in condition, shortest and fastest, and possibly the easiest route.
America. 900m. 1950-07-31First ascentMaxwell & Harrah, 1950-07-31.
Route is destroyed. Through west face to col between Yerupajá Sur and Grande, then along SW ridge to the summit.
Czech. 1000m. 1981-01-01First ascentJrajèík, Kulhvý & Porvasník, 1981.
Cara O y arista S-SO (Argentine). TD+; 50-65°; 900m, 3d. 1964-01-01First ascentJ. Peterek & A. Weber, 1964.
NW Spur (Arête Nord-Ouest du Yerupaja Nord). Snow/ice, TD-; 1000m. 1968-06-21First ascentRoger Bates & Graham Dingle to North summit, 1968-06-21.
Sustained 40-55 snow/ice to north summit on the far left hand side of the face, followed by 500m ridge traverse to true summit (D. Wilkinson & R. Renshaw, ED according to AAJ 2002). Little objective danger.
NW face
Narrow NW face rises between NW Spur and North ridge leading to Yerupajá Norte.
NW Face to N Ridge. TD+; 1000m. 1976-01-01First ascentKouda, Yoshino & Huayashi, 1976.
Yerupaja Chico (Yerupajá Chico, Yerupaya Chico)-10.2528-76.90366121
  • Yerupaja Chico (6121m-10.2528-76.9036)
  • El Toro (5965m)
Although the name might suggest otherwise, Yerupaya Chico is most definitely an independent mountain, and big one at that.
1957-07-07
Yerupaja Chico, NE Face and East Ridge,
First ascent
NE Face and East Ridge: Toni Egger, Siegfried Jungmeier
1964-06-23
Yerupaja Chico, Cara S-SO,
First ascent
Cara S-SO: P. Habeler & Reinhold Messner
1967-01-01
Yerupaja Chico, South Face,
First ascent
South Face: Honda & Akino
1970-01-01
Yerupaja Chico, British,
First ascent
British: Barker, Anthoine, Alcock & Brown (summit ridge)
1977-07-26
Yerupaja Chico, Cara N,
First ascent
Cara N: Decamp & B. Muller
1983-06-21
Yerupaja Chico, East Face,
First ascent
East Face: L- Abbet, D. Delale, J.P. Frossard & S. Shaffter
NE side
NE Face and East Ridge. TD-; 1100m, 3-5d. 1957-07-07First ascentToni Egger, Siegfried Jungmeier, 1957-07-07.
  • Frimer #55
  • Tomé 102#1 (ED)
East Face
East Face. ED1; IV-V,A2; 1300m. 1983-06-21First ascentL- Abbet, D. Delale, J.P. Frossard & S. Shaffter, 1983-06-21.
South face
South Face. D; 600m. 1967-01-01First ascentHonda & Akino, 1967.
Cara S-SO. ED; 400m. 1964-06-23First ascentP. Habeler & Reinhold Messner, 1964-06-23.
  • Tomé 103#3
NW face
Located immediately above Ghost Col (Yerupajá West glacier). Both N and SW ridges framing the face are unclimbed. SW Ridge has been attempted (AAJ 1975, 50-60)
British. Ice, D+; 700m. 1970-01-01First ascentBarker, Anthoine, Alcock & Brown (summit ridge), 1970.
Cara N (French). Ice/snow, D+; 70-75°; 700m. 1977-07-26First ascentDecamp & B. Muller, 1977-07-26.
Leads to El Toro. On the RHS of the face. Reportedly much more technical than Yerupajá West Face Direct.

Siula group

Siula Grande-10.2944-76.89186344
  • Siula Norte (6300m)
  • Siula Grande (6344m-10.2944-76.8918)

Located in the central part of the massif. The second highest peak in Cordillera Huayhuash and probably the most famous. The peak has three main faces: NE face above Carhuacocha, South face above Quesillococha and Siulacocha and West face above Sarapococha and Yerupajá South glacier.

Siula Grande's West face is legendary for Joe Simpson's Epic Touching The Void: The True Story of One Man's Miraculous Survival.Simpson, JoeVintage Books199800997710120099771012Touching the VoidNon-fictionen. It is filmed by Kevin Macdonald (see: Touching the Void ), which is one of the greatest survival stories in mountaineering history and possibly the best known.

All routes are very difficult. Especially 1000m high West Face and 900m+ high East Face. Despite this, Siula Grande was the first major peak to be climbed in Huayhuash.

1936-07-26
Siula Grande, Arista NO al Siula Norte y Grande,
First ascent
Arista NO al Siula Norte y Grande: Arnold Awerzger & Erwin Schneider
1963-07-23
Siula Grande, Spanish,
First ascent
Spanish: J.M. Anglada, M. Muñoz & J. Pons
1978-08-03
Siula Grande, Cara NE al Siula Norte,
First ascent
Cara NE al Siula Norte: K. Schoisswohl, M. Blumenthaler, M. Grüner & G. Kaser
1981-07-23
Siula Grande, Pilar S-SE al Siula Grande,
First ascent
Pilar S-SE al Siula Grande: J. Baechhler, L. Défago & S. Schaffter
1985-01-01
Siula Grande, Touching the Void,
First ascent
Touching the Void: Joe Simpson & Simon Yates
1999-06-16
Siula Grande, Avoiding the Touch,
First ascent
Avoiding the Touch: C. Bühler & M. Price
2001-01-01
Siula Grande, Southern Discomfort,
First ascent
Southern Discomfort: Jay Burbee, Jeremy Frimer & Michel van der Speck
2001-07-18
Siula Grande, Noches de Juerga,
First ascent
Noches de Juerga: V. Mlinar, T. Zerovnik, M. Jost & A. Monasterio
2002-07-03
Siula Grande, Los Rapidos,
First ascent
Los Rapidos: Marjan Kovac, Pavle Kozjek & Aritza Monasterio
2002-08-01
Siula Grande, Mammut Tracks,
First ascent
Mammut Tracks: Rogier van Rijn & Eva Oomen
NE face
Base of the face at about 5300m.
Cara NE al Siula Norte (Austrian). ED (D+ in Frimer); 70°; 800m, 12 pitches. 1978-08-03First ascentK. Schoisswohl, M. Blumenthaler, M. Grüner & G. Kaser, 1978-08-03.
Far right side of the face.
Arista NO al Siula Norte y Grande (North Ridge). TD/TD+; III, 55-70°; 800m. 1936-07-26First ascentArnold Awerzger & Erwin Schneider, 1936-07-26.
Normal route. The First route to be climbed in Cordillera Huayhuash. Long, doubly corniced ridge with fragile ice cargoyles starting from Siula Grande-Yerupaja col (5730m).
  • Frimer #63
  • Biggar 2005 pp.99
  • Kiendler #C4
  • Tomé 153#8
Los Rapidos. TD+/ED; 90/55-70°; 1000m. 2002-07-03First ascentMarjan Kovac, Pavle Kozjek & Aritza Monasterio, 2002-07-03.
Spanish. TD-; 55-85°; 900m, 3-4d. 1963-07-23First ascentJ.M. Anglada, M. Muñoz & J. Pons, 1963-07-23.
South Face
Southern Discomfort. TD+/ED-; 650m. 2001-01-01First ascentJay Burbee, Jeremy Frimer & Michel van der Speck, 2001.
Pilar S-SE al Siula Grande (SSE Spur). D+/TD-; 55-65°, III-IV+; 890m. 1981-07-23First ascentJ. Baechhler, L. Défago & S. Schaffter, 1981-07-23.
West face
1000m high difficult ice face. There were several attemps before the legendary ascent by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. There are currently (2005) four routes on the left side of the face (ED1-2), right hand side remains unclimbed.
Mammut Tracks. ED1; 90°; 1000m. 2002-08-01First ascentRogier van Rijn & Eva Oomen, 2002-08.
  • Frimer #94
Noches de Juerga. ED2; Sco VI/90°; 1000m, 27 pitches. 2001-07-18First ascentV. Mlinar, T. Zerovnik, M. Jost & A. Monasterio, 2001-07-18.
Avoiding the Touch. ED2; WI4/90°, IV; 1000m, 24 pitches. 1999-06-16First ascentC. Bühler & M. Price, 1999-06-16.
Touching the Void (Cara O contrafuerte central al Siula Grande, West Face). Ice, ED2; Sco VI/90°; 1000m/27 pitches. 1985-01-01First ascentJoe Simpson & Simon Yates, 1985.
Talk about mountaineering legend, the most famous route in Cordillera Huayhuash.
Siula Chico-10.2961-76.89276265
Sharp south summit of Siula Grande separated from Grande by a col of ~6000m. The peak is very difficult from all sides, easiest route is considered to be the traverse from Siula Grande. Particularly West face is very difficult.
1966-06-21
Siula Chico, NE Ridge,
First ascent
NE Ridge: Reinhold Obster, Peter Scholz & Manfred Sturm
2004-08-01
Siula Chico, A Scream of Silence,
First ascent
A Scream of Silence: Anze & Tine Marence
2007-05-01
Siula Chico, West face,
First ascent
West face: Jordi Corominas & Oriol Baró
2014-05-20
Siula Chico, Looking for a void,
First ascent
Looking for a void: Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet, Hélias Millerioux & Robin Revest
NE Ridge
NE Ridge. 1966-06-21First ascentReinhold Obster, Peter Scholz & Manfred Sturm, 1966-06-21.
Traverse from Siula Grande.
SE face
A Scream of Silence. WI5+°/90°, IV; 600m. 2004-08-01First ascentAnze & Tine Marence, 2004-08-01.
West face
West face is very difficult and it stopped several serious attemps by elite climbers before it's first ascent in 2007. Among the parties trying it were Simon Yates and Mick Fowler in 1998 via 900m West buttress. They encountered climbing up to Scottish V and VI before running into unjustifiably dangerous ground. Later Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tosas made attemps in 2003 and 2005.
Looking for a void. M7 WI6R; 900m. 2014-05-20First ascentFrédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet, Hélias Millerioux & Robin Revest, 2014-05-20.
West face. VI ED3; VI/AI5+ R A2. 2007-05-01First ascentJordi Corominas & Oriol Baró, 2007-05.

Sarapo group

Sarapo-10.3043-76.89426127
Southernmost 6000m peak in Huayhuash, located on Huayhuash main chain between Siula Chico in north (col 5910) and Carnicero in south (col 5630). The peak has four major faces: NE face rising above laguna Quesillococha (Carnicero basin), SE face above laguna Juraucocha, SW face above Sarapococha and NW face above Yerupajá South glacier.
1954-07-25
Sarapo, Austrian,
First ascent
Austrian: M. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer
1974-07-30
Sarapo, Cara NO y arista O,
First ascent
Cara NO y arista O: G. Rocco & I. Bazzani
1974-08-02
Sarapo, NE Face Direct,
First ascent
NE Face Direct: A. Sperlich, O. Tutzer & W. Studener
1979-01-01
Sarapo, NW Face,
First ascent
NW Face: R. Gocking & T. Sisson
1979-08-14
Sarapo, South Ridge,
First ascent
South Ridge: C. Ferrari, B. Lombardini, A. Liati, V. Meles, M. Scaioli & G. Maresi
1980-01-01
Sarapo, Cara O,
First ascent
Cara O: Y. Astier, J.M. Boucansaud, N. Silvin & B. Ouchik
1984-07-22
Sarapo, Cara NO,
First ascent
Cara NO: G. Friele, G.D. van Sprang & E. Veen
2001-07-18
Sarapo, SW Face,
First ascent
SW Face: Matej Mejovsek & Irena Mrak
NE side
Wide sunny face of snow/ice with rock buttresses. Part of the impressive amphitheatre with Carnicero and South Face of Siula Grande.
ENE Ridge. TD; IV, 60-65°; 3-4 days.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.99
NE Face Direct. D+; 70-80°; 550m. 1974-08-02First ascentA. Sperlich, O. Tutzer & W. Studener, 1974-08-02.
Austrian. D-; 70-75°; 600m. 1954-07-25First ascentM. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer, 1954-07-25.
Left side of the face, 8 pitches to gain East Ridge.
  • Frimer #70
  • Tomé 155#1 (TD)
SE face
Unclimbed
South ridge
Long ridge starting somewhat SE of Sarapo summit and running to laguna Juraucocha (4343m). Separetes SE and SW faces. Yatauri (5453m) is located on the ridge. Climb gains the ridge from west (Sarapococha) by Sarapo-Yantauri col.
South Ridge. 1000m. 1979-08-14First ascentC. Ferrari, B. Lombardini, A. Liati, V. Meles, M. Scaioli & G. Maresi, 1979-08-14.
SW Face
Lots of alpine ice. AD+-TD. Serac fall danger. There has been at least four ascents before Slovenian party, but details about their their chosen line is unclear.
SW Face (Andrejeva smer, La Ruta Andrés). TD; V+, 90/65-80°; 1000m 18 pitches. 2001-07-18First ascentMatej Mejovsek & Irena Mrak, 2001-07-18.
  • Frimer #100
Cara O. TD; 70°. 1980-01-01First ascentY. Astier, J.M. Boucansaud, N. Silvin & B. Ouchik, 1980.
West ridge
Two-branch ridge with Sarapo Oeste and Sarapococha satellite peaks. Separates West side to NW and SW faces.
Cara NO y arista O (West Ridge). Snow/mixed, AD+; 700m. 1974-07-30First ascentG. Rocco & I. Bazzani, 1974-07-30.
Easiest route. Ridge is gained from the north.
NW side
Above Yerupajá South glacier. Shorter, snowier and less endangered than SW face.
NW Face. Snow/ice, D+/TD-; 700m. 1979-01-01First ascentR. Gocking & T. Sisson, 1979.
Cara NO. Snow/ice, TD; 1000m. 1984-07-22First ascentG. Friele, G.D. van Sprang & E. Veen, 1984-07-22.
  • Tomé 157#8
Sarapo Oeste-10.3024-76.90245557
1984-01-01
Sarapo Oeste, Flanco N,
First ascent
Flanco N: P. Leeming, M. Lowe, C. Marsh & W. Patterson
North face
Flanco N. 1984-01-01First ascentP. Leeming, M. Lowe, C. Marsh & W. Patterson, 1984.
  • Tomé 157#1
Yantauri (Rurigallay)5455
1977-06-16
Yantauri, ,
First ascent
: G. Dionisi, E. Ferrero & F. Ribetti
West face
Parete O.
  • Tomé 158#1
Sarapococha (Sarapo SO)-10.3088-76.90335370
Southern satellite peak on Sarapo West ridge.

Jurau group

Jurau A-10.2816-76.88005617
Northernmost of Jurau peaks, located above laguna Siulöacocha and Quesillococha.
North face
Pared N.
  • Tomé 159#1
Jurau B-10.2882-76.88315740
2006-08-06
Jurau B, Mis Amigos,
First ascent
Mis Amigos: Arrigoni, Festorazzi, Galbani & Melesi
NE Ridge
Mis Amigos. VII,A1; 800m, 33 pitches. 2006-08-06First ascentArrigoni, Festorazzi, Galbani & Melesi, 2006-08-06.
According to AAJ what the Italian party called Siula Anticima is in reality Pt. 5740m aka Jurau B.
Carnicero (Jurau C)-10.308434-76.881465960
7th tallest peak in Cordilera Huayhuash, yet almost completely overlooked by climbers. There are only two routes (2005), lots of room for new routes.
1961-08-16
Carnicero, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: H. Albrect, Bunezak, M. Jordan, G. Wolf & H. Wels
1966-01-01
Carnicero, North Face,
First ascent
North Face: Lapp, Obster, Scholz, C. Sturm & M. Sturm
1980-01-01
Carnicero, Arista SO,
First ascent
Arista SO: C. Schranz & R. Morandi
2007-07-01
Carnicero, Central gully,
First ascent
Central gully: Carlos Bühler & Brad Johnson
North Face
North Ridge. D; 500m. 1961-08-16First ascentH. Albrect, Bunezak, M. Jordan, G. Wolf & H. Wels, 1961-08-16.
North Face. D; 500m. 1966-01-01First ascentLapp, Obster, Scholz, C. Sturm & M. Sturm, 1966.
NE Ridge.
Unclimbed.
East face
Central gully. AI4/4+/70-80°; 660m. 2007-07-01First ascentCarlos Bühler & Brad Johnson, 2007-07.
Unclimbed. Not to summit.
SW Face
Snowy face above Jurau glacier.
Arista SO (SW Face). D; 55-70°; 800m. 1980-01-01First ascentC. Schranz & R. Morandi, 1980.
To the left of rock spur below the face.
Huaraca (Jurau Norte, Jurau E)-10.3201-76.87495537
Sharp but minor peak on Huayhuash main ridge.
1961-06-04
Huaraca, Vertiente E y arista S,
First ascent
Vertiente E y arista S: M. Jordan, G. Wolf, H. Albrect, Bloss & Buncsack
1974-01-01
Huaraca, Cara NO Directa,
First ascent
Cara NO Directa: G. Bianchi & A. da Polenza
2007-01-01
Huaraca, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Martin Lane & Tom Bide
2007-01-01
Huaraca, NE face,
First ascent
NE face: Carl Reilly & Graeme Schofield
  • Biggar 2005 pp.99
North ridge
Ridge from the sharp V-shaped col between Jurau D and Huaraca.
North ridge. D; IV. 2007-01-01First ascentMartin Lane & Tom Bide, 2007.
NE face
NE face. D; V. 2007-01-01First ascentCarl Reilly & Graeme Schofield, 2007.
East side
Vertiente E y arista S (East Side). Glacier, PD+; 600m. 1961-06-04First ascentM. Jordan, G. Wolf, H. Albrect, Bloss & Buncsack, 1961-06-04.
NW face
Cara NO Directa. Glacier, ED; 600m. 1974-01-01First ascentG. Bianchi & A. da Polenza, 1974.
  • Tomé 161#2
Jurau (Jurau D)-10.3143-76.87805674
Minor summit on main chain south of Carnicero. Sharp pointy summit with deep V-shaped notch separating it from Huaraca.
1988-01-01
Jurau, West Face,
First ascent
West Face: B. Barker & J. Preston
East Ridge
East Ridge. Snow/rock, AD+; 75, mostly 45°, V; 700m.
West Face
Low objective hazard, lot's of potential for new hard ice and mixed routes.
West Face. Ice/mixed, TD-; Sco V/60-90°; 500m, 15 pitches. 1988-01-01First ascentB. Barker & J. Preston, 1988.
Quesillo (Jurau Sur, Jurau F)-10.32502-76.8737535600
Located south of Huaraca, North of Trapecio. Only few routes, nowhere near climbed out. According to their expedition report, British party considered East ridge, SE face and South ridge (all unclimbed) worth further exploring.
1900-01-01
Quesillo, West Face,
First ascent
West Face: P. Bourgeois, Pinta & Beriaux
1964-01-01
Quesillo, Vertiente E y arista N,
First ascent
Vertiente E y arista N: Salger & Lindauer
2006-07-14
Quesillo, NE face,
First ascent
NE face: Carlos Bühler & Brad Johnson
2007-01-01
Quesillo, Electric Line,
First ascent
Electric Line: Carl Reilly, Graeme Schofield, Martin Lane & Tom Bide
2014-01-01
Quesillo, El Malefico Sefkow,
First ascent
El Malefico Sefkow: Tito Arosio, Saro Costa & Luca Vallata
  • Biggar 2005 pp.99
North face
Vertiente E y arista N (North Ridge). AD-; 700m. 1964-01-01First ascentSalger & Lindauer, 1964.
From Huaraca-Quesillo Col.
NE face. D+; V-, AI3/55-75°; 350m. 2006-07-14First ascentCarlos Bühler & Brad Johnson, 2006-07-14.
East Ridge
Long ridge running (N)E from the summit dividing the east side to N(E) face and SE faces.
Electric Line (East Ridge). Rock, TD-; V+, Sco III/IV; 700m. 2007-01-01First ascentCarl Reilly, Graeme Schofield, Martin Lane & Tom Bide, 2007.
Unclimbed. Made of several gerdarmes.
SE face
Above Huayhuash glacier. No routes.
West Face
Mixed face above laguna Jurau.
West Face. TD-; 500m. 1900-01-01First ascentP. Bourgeois, Pinta & Beriaux.
  • Tomé 159#2
El Malefico Sefkow. ED2; M5+ AI5 A1. 2014-01-01First ascentTito Arosio, Saro Costa & Luca Vallata, 2014.
Trapecio (Jurau G, Nevado Huayhuash)-10.338207-76.8684135644
Southernmost classic alpine peak on Huayhuash. One of the better known mountains in Huayhuash. SW and SE faces are not too far away from Huayhuash alpine circuit trek. Easiest route is NE face accessible from Huayhuash settlement along Huayhuash circuit trek.
1900-01-01
Trapecio, ,
Event
Jeff Lowe (incomplete) Pavle Kozjek, Miha Lampreht, Branko Ivanek & Aritza Monasterio
1957-07-15
Trapecio, NE Face,
First ascent
NE Face: E. Krenmayr & H. Raditschnig
1974-01-01
Trapecio, Espolón y cara SE,
First ascent
Espolón y cara SE: G. Dionisi, E. Ferraro & P. Malvassora
1976-06-21
Trapecio, NW Ridge,
First ascent
NW Ridge: J. Bourgeois, J. Pinta & D. Beriaux
1978-07-25
Trapecio, Contrafuerte O-SO,
First ascent
Contrafuerte O-SO: M. Conti, E. Mascheroni, P. Wegri, G. Spinello, M. Terraneo, D. Tonele & E. Borganovo
1986-01-01
Trapecio, American,
First ascent
American: Jim Donini & Jack Tackle (not to summit)
2001-01-01
Trapecio, West Face,
First ascent
West Face: Mejovsek & Mrak
2006-08-02
Trapecio, Los viejos roqueros nunca mueren,
First ascent
Los viejos roqueros nunca mueren: Jose Manuel Fernandez & Miguel Angel Pita
NE Face
NE Face. AD; 30-50°; 450m, 1d. 1957-07-15First ascentE. Krenmayr & H. Raditschnig, 1957-07-15.
Normal route. The easiest route and best descend. From Quesillo-Trapecio col.
SE Face (South face)
The best known face in Jurau group and one of the better known ones in whole of Huayhuash. Lowe route through the central part of the face is well known and very difficult testpiece, one of the most difficult routes of the whole range.
Espolón y cara SE (South Spur). ED1; 90°; 750m. 1974-01-01First ascentG. Dionisi, E. Ferraro & P. Malvassora, 1974.
Climbs the spur forming the left hand border of SE face.
American (Rouflaguette Nationale). TD+; WI5+; 700m. 1986-01-01First ascentJim Donini & Jack Tackle (not to summit), 1986.
The prominent twisting couloir left of the Lowe Route to reach the crest of the South Spur.
Lowe. V ED3; V WI6+ VS/M5, VI-,A2; 700m. 1985-01-01First ascentJeff Lowe (incomplete), 1985.2005-07-10First ascentPavle Kozjek, Miha Lampreht, Branko Ivanek & Aritza Monasterio, 2005-07-10.
Probably the most famous route in southern Huayhuash. Route through the central part of SE face. Jeff Lowe soloed the route to upper ice field, but did not summit. First complete ascent had to wait for 20 years.
Los viejos roqueros nunca mueren. ED3; V WI4+; 750m. 2006-08-02First ascentJose Manuel Fernandez & Miguel Angel Pita, 2006-08-02.
SW side
West Face (La vida esta bella). D-; IV, 80°; 500m. 2001-01-01First ascentMejovsek & Mrak, 2001.
  • Frimer #106
Contrafuerte O-SO (SW Spur). Snow/rock, ED (D in Frimer); 450m. 1978-07-25First ascentM. Conti, E. Mascheroni, P. Wegri, G. Spinello, M. Terraneo, D. Tonele & E. Borganovo, 1978-07-25.
Classic. Spur cutting SW face in two. Reportedly one the best ridge routes on Huayhuash.
NW ridge
NW Ridge (Arista NO). Snow/rock/mixed, D; 400m. 1-2d. 1976-06-21First ascentJ. Bourgeois, J. Pinta & D. Beriaux, 1976-06-21.
From Quesillo-Trapecio col (5275m).

Huayhuash West

Seria-Rosario

Seria group

Seria Norte-10.27859-76.917335860
1980-01-01
Seria Norte, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: Grenigt & Naar
1984-08-13
Seria Norte, NW Ridge,
First ascent
NW Ridge: M. Lowe
1986-01-01
Seria Norte, Cara Norte,
First ascent
Cara Norte: Ravenhill & Ruddle
  • Frimer #86-#88
North side
East Ridge. Glacier, PD-; 200m. 1980-01-01First ascentGrenigt & Naar, 1980.
Via Seria Norte-Yerupajá col (5740m). Fróm there snowy ridge to summit.
Cara Norte. D; 200m. 1986-01-01First ascentRavenhill & Ruddle, 1986.
  • Tomé 120#1
NW Ridge. F; 100m. 1984-08-13First ascentM. Lowe, 1984-08-13.
Easiest route on high Huayhuash summit. Via Seria Norte-Rasac col (5750m), then along easy NW ridge to summit.
SE side
Unclimbed. Joe Simpson and Simon Yates gained the col between Seria Central and Norte while acclimatizing for their epic Siula Grande ascent. Because of unfavorable snow conditions they decided against pushing for Norte and climbed Seria Central instead.
SW side
Fluted snow face next to Rasac South face. Snowier and somewhat less tall. Unclimbed.
Seria Central5543
1964-07-14
Seria Central, Lado O y arista S,
First ascent
Lado O y arista S: S. Calegari & C. Membrini
1985-05-24
Seria Central, Lado E y arista N,
First ascent
Lado E y arista N: Simon Yates & Joe Simpson
East side
Lado E y arista N (East side). Snow, PD+; 500m. 1985-05-24First ascentSimon Yates & Joe Simpson, 1985-05-24.
Joe Simpson and Simon Yates gained the col between Seria Central and Norte while acclimatizing for their epic Siula Grande ascent. The had planned to climb Seria Norte but because of unfavorable snow conditions they decided against pushing for Norte and climbed Seria Central instead.
SW side
Lado O y arista S (West side). PD+; 500m, 1d. 1964-07-14First ascentS. Calegari & C. Membrini, 1964-07-14.
Via Punta Seria and Seria Sur.
Seria Sur-10.2953-76.91965230
1964-07-14
Seria Sur, Vertiente O y arista S,
First ascent
Vertiente O y arista S: S. Calegari & C. Membrini
1981-06-30
Seria Sur, Cara Oeste,
First ascent
Cara Oeste: J. Baranek & A. Czok
West side
Vertiente O y arista S (West side). F; 600m. 1964-07-14First ascentS. Calegari & C. Membrini, 1964-07-14.
Climbed as part of west side ascent to Seria Central.
Cara Oeste. 600m. 1981-06-30First ascentJ. Baranek & A. Czok, 1981-06-30.
  • Tomé 121#2

Rosario group

Cerro Rosario-22.835833333333333-66.62755557
  • Rosario Norte (Caramarca Chico) (5557m-22.835833333333333-66.6275)
  • Rosario Central (Caramarca Grande)
  • Rosario Sur (5557m)
1967-06-26
Cerro Rosario, Norte, East Ridge,
First ascent
Norte, East Ridge: T. Arai & T. Akino
Norte, East Ridge
Norte, East Ridge. AD-; 400m. 1200m, 1 day roundtrip from Sarapococha. 1967-06-26First ascentT. Arai & T. Akino, 1967-06-26.
Usufull acclimation ascent.
Cerro Gran Vista5150
West side
West side. Trekking.
East side
East side. Trekking; 800m/3km.
  • Frimer #89

Rasac group

Rasac Grande (Rasac)-10.2744-76.92186017
Located immediately to the west of Yerupaja, only 3km away in the crossing of East-West chain and Rasac chain. Considered the easiest 6000m peak in Cordillera Huayhuash. There are host of moderate ice/snow routes on East and West faces, South face on the other hand has few very difficult routes. Sometimes climbed as a preparation for Yerupaya ascent due to close proximity and shared glacier camp. Rock quality is generally poor. Easiest descent is by rappelling down the east face. Middle Buttress of West face is the best option if based on quebrada Rasac or Segya.
1936-08-08
Rasac Grande, SE Ridge,
First ascent
SE Ridge: E. Schneider
1975-05-31
Rasac Grande, North ridge integral,
First ascent
North ridge integral: R. Brice, K. Calder & A. Smith
1976-07-12
Rasac Grande, East Face,
First ascent
East Face: Y. Astier, M. Besinge & J. Merel
1977-06-09
Rasac Grande, British 1977,
First ascent
British 1977: Alan Rouse & Rab Carrington
1978-01-01
Rasac Grande, Italian route,
First ascent
Italian route: Brianzi, Tagliabue, Armuzzi, Volpi, Beggio & Leoni
1979-05-29
Rasac Grande, Lado N de la arista O y arista O,
First ascent
Lado N de la arista O y arista O: Nicolas Jaeger
1980-01-01
Rasac Grande, British 1977,
First ascent
British 1977: Boraud & Esser
1980-07-19
Rasac Grande, Middle Buttress,
First ascent
Middle Buttress: Antoine Baroud & Ralph Esser
1984-01-01
Rasac Grande, Left buttress,
First ascent
Left buttress: Antola, Ferraresi & Montero
1985-07-24
Rasac Grande, New Zealand,
First ascent
New Zealand: G. Halliburton & A. Wood
1986-06-14
Rasac Grande, British '86,
First ascent
British '86: M. Hair & R. Payne
1986-07-17
Rasac Grande, Dutch buttress,
First ascent
Dutch buttress: R. Bekendam & G. Lambregis
North ridge
Very long ridge from Juahuacocha over all Rasac peaks: Rasac Norte (5230m) - P. 5617 - Rasac Central II (5724m) - Rasac Central I (5850m) - Rasac Principal Norte - Rasac Grande (6017m)
North ridge integral. 50-60°, III; 4-5km ridge, 5-8 days. 1975-05-31First ascentR. Brice, K. Calder & A. Smith, 1975-05-31.
  • Tomé 130#11
East side
300-400m high easily accessible face with several possible lines. Easiest and shortest ascent to 6000m peak in Huayhuash, but often snow/ice coverage is poor and rock quality is crumbly.
SE Ridge. Snow/ice, AD-D; 50-60°, II-III; 400m. 1936-08-08First ascentE. Schneider, 1936-08-08.
Normal route, classic. Possible the most popular route in Cordillera Huayhuash. From West Yerupaja glacier via Seria Norte-Rasac col (5750m), from there 30-60 to southern end of long summit ridge.
  • Frimer #26
  • Biggar 2005 pp.99
  • Tomé 125#1 (D)
East Face. Snow/mixed, AD+/nccs IV WI4 5.6; WI4, II-III/5.6; 400m. 1976-07-12First ascentY. Astier, M. Besinge & J. Merel, 1976-07-12.
Normal route. Shares the glacier camp with Yerupaya at ~5500m. To Principal Norte, from there along ridge to main summit.
  • Frimer #27
  • Biggar 2005 pp.99
  • Kiendler #C3
  • Tomé 125#2 (D)
South Face
Most dramatic side of Rasac. Steep and sustained 900m ice routes on gullies between rock buttresses. Despite its attractiveness, possibly a bit overshadowed be nearby South face of Yerupajá.
British 1977. Snow, ED1; Sco V/WI4/70-90°; 900m. 1977-06-09First ascentAlan Rouse & Rab Carrington, 1977-06-09.1980-01-01First ascentBoraud & Esser, 1980.
New Zealand. Snow/mixed, ED1; 75-90°, A2; 900m. 1985-07-24First ascentG. Halliburton & A. Wood, 1985-07-24.
British '86. Snow/mixed, ED1; 60-90°; 900m. 1986-06-14First ascentM. Hair & R. Payne, 1986-06-14.
West side
Several routes around the grades D and D+ and 500m long. There are four prominent buttresses from the left: Dutch buttress, Left buttress, Middle buttress (classic) and Right buttress. All routes start on the glacier shelf below the face. The glacier below the shelf looks to be rather broken on some photos, no information how difficult it is. It has been gained either directly from quebrada Rasac, by traversing from Rasac pass or by traversing over Rasac Oeste.
  • Frimer #28-33
Dutch buttress. D-; 60-75°; 800m. 1986-07-17First ascentR. Bekendam & G. Lambregis, 1986-07-17.
More complex and less direct than other routes on West face. Gains long Rasac North ridge about 2 km north of main summit.
Left buttress. D; 70°; 500m. 1984-01-01First ascentAntola, Ferraresi & Montero, 1984.
Italian route. D; 50-60°; 500m. 1978-01-01First ascentBrianzi, Tagliabue, Armuzzi, Volpi, Beggio & Leoni, 1978.
Located between left and Middle buttresses.
Middle Buttress. Snow, D; 60-75°; 500m. 1980-07-19First ascentAntoine Baroud & Ralph Esser, 1980-07-19.
Classic. Minimal objective danger.
Right buttress. 500m.
Lado N de la arista O y arista O (West ridge). D+/TD. 1979-05-29First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1979-05-29.
From the col between Rasac Oeste and Grande after having traversed over Oeste.
Rasac Oeste-10.2768-76.92755700
Small and sharp peak located on main East-West chain, a bit west of Rasac Grande and east of Punta Rasac and separated from it by a col. Jaeger traversed over it from Punta Rasac on a way to Rasac Grande.
1900-01-01
Rasac Oeste, ,
Event
G. Brianzi, P. Castaldelli, P. Harbaiza & C. Rocas Nicolas Jaeger
1979-05-29
Rasac Oeste, West face,
First ascent
West face: Nicolas Jaeger
East ridge
East ridge. D; 50-70°; 200m. 1971-08-09First ascentG. Brianzi, P. Castaldelli, P. Harbaiza & C. Rocas, 1971-08-09.
Used by Jaeger as descent.
West ridge (lado N de la arista O y arista O)
West face (Arista Oeste). D+; 55-60°; 500m, 1d. 1979-05-29First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1979-05-29.
Rasac Norte-10.2508-76.92855230
Northermost Rasac peak. Suitable as acclimatization goal from Jahuacocha BC.
1954-06-01
Rasac Norte, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: C. Morales & E. Angeles
1966-06-18
Rasac Norte, Vertiente E,
First ascent
Vertiente E: P. Roth
East side
Vertiente E (East ridge). F-AD; 700m, 1d. 1966-06-18First ascentP. Roth, 1966-06-18.
  • Tomé 131#2
West ridge
West ridge. F; 1100m. 1954-06-01First ascentC. Morales & E. Angeles, 1954-06.
  • Tomé 131#1

Tsacra Chico group

Tsacra Chico

Tsacra Chico-10.2829-76.93795548
1954-06-27
Tsacra Chico, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: M. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer
1978-01-01
Tsacra Chico, NE Face,
First ascent
NE Face: Strobel, Köninger, Schillinger & Schlumpf
1978-01-01
Tsacra Chico, South Face,
First ascent
South Face: Brianzi, Tabliablue, Armuzzi, Volpi, Beggio & Leoni
NE side
Directly above punta Rasac leading to Norte.
NE Face. 45°. 1978-01-01First ascentStrobel, Köninger, Schillinger & Schlumpf, 1978.
Not clear whether they climbed Norte or main summit.
North Ridge. D; 55-60°; 650m, 1d. 1954-06-27First ascentM. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer, 1954-06-27.
North ridge of Tsacra Chico Norte followed by traverse to main summit.
  • Tomé 136#1
South side
Elegant snow face, much smaller version of neighbouring rasac South face.
South Face. Snow/ice, D; 40-50°; 450m. 1978-01-01First ascentBrianzi, Tabliablue, Armuzzi, Volpi, Beggio & Leoni, 1978.
Reputed to be one of the best moderate routes in Huayhuash.
Tsacra Chico Norte5513
Located on a ridge running north from Tsacra Chico principal. Traverse from Norte to main summit is not overly difficult.
1954-06-27
Tsacra Chico Norte, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: M. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer
1968-06-27
Tsacra Chico Norte, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: M. Honda, T. Akino & T. Ichikawa
1976-01-01
Tsacra Chico Norte, West Face,
First ascent
West Face: Nave & Stefan
NE side
North Ridge (Cara O - arista N). Snow/mixed, D; 55-60°; 650m, 1d. 1954-06-27First ascentM. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer, 1954-06-27.
  • Tomé 134#2, 136#1
East Ridge (Pared E-NE). Snow/mixed, D+; 55-60°; 400m. 1968-06-27First ascentM. Honda, T. Akino & T. Ichikawa, 1968-06-27.
From Punta Rasac (5129m).
West side
West Face. 65°. 1976-01-01First ascentNave & Stefan, 1976.
From Tsacra lake.
Tsacra Chico Oeste5477
  • Tsacra Chico Oeste (5477m)
  • Tsacra Chico Oeste II
Located on main East-West ridge, between Tsacra Chico principal in East and Tsacra Grande in west. Smaller Tsacra Chico Oeste II is located further west. Peak is not particularly imposing per se, but North face has lots of potential for climbers.
1964-07-14
Tsacra Chico Oeste, Vertiente S y arista SE,
First ascent
Vertiente S y arista SE: M. Calegari & M. Curnis
1980-08-31
Tsacra Chico Oeste, Pared N,
First ascent
Pared N: S. Brewer & W. Dzik
North side
400m high mixed face with steep icy gullies.
Pared N. Mixed, ED; 70-90°; 400m, 1d. 1980-08-31First ascentS. Brewer & W. Dzik, 1980-08-31.
  • Tomé 136#1
South side
Vertiente S y arista SE (SE Ridge). Mixed, PD; 500m, 900m from laguna Caramarca. 1964-07-14First ascentM. Calegari & M. Curnis, 1964-07-14.

Tsacra Grande group

Tsacra Grande Central-10.2897-76.95135716
Located between Tsacra Grande Principal and Norte along the north ridge. Not a very independent peak.
Tsacra Grande5622
Highest of Tsacra Grande peaks and highest peak in Huayhuash west of Rasac. Located at the southern end of a ridge containing Tsacra Grande, Tsacra Grande Cebtral and Tsacra Grande Norte.
1954-01-01
Tsacra Grande, East Ridge from North,
First ascent
East Ridge from North: Mariner, Aeberli, Gruber & Klier
1964-07-04
Tsacra Grande, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: S. Calegari, N. Calegari, Nava & Bergamelli
2002-01-01
Tsacra Grande, NW face,
First ascent
NW face: Richey & Swenson
NE side
East Ridge from North (Vertiente E). Rock/snow, 1954-01-01First ascentMariner, Aeberli, Gruber & Klier, 1954.
First across glacier to gain east ridge at 5600, then along the ridge to the summit.
  • Frimer pp.110
SE side
While 500m complex SE face is unclimbed, East ridge has been climbed from this side as well.
East Ridge. Rock/snow, D+; 400m. 1964-07-04First ascentS. Calegari, N. Calegari, Nava & Bergamelli, 1964-07-04.
Via collado 5375 between Tsacra Chico Oeste and Tsacra Grande Principal to east ridge.
NW side
NW face. D; WI4; 600m. 2002-01-01First ascentRichey & Swenson, 2002.
Tsacra Grande Oeste5589
Lowest of Tsacra Grande summits but far more independent than Central or North summits. Only one recorded ascent. However, SW ridge leading to Ancoccancha was used by Hall, Jaeger and Rouse in descent. Glacier leading to col between Tsacra Grande Principal and Oeste appear to have plenty of seracs making approach to NW side of Principal and NE side of Oeste objectively serious. For the same reason, the ascent of the col from the north is probably best not to attempted.
1979-05-22
Tsacra Grande Oeste, NW Face,
First ascent
NW Face: Brian Hall, Nicolas Jaeger & Alan Rouse
NW side
The Spur that forms the upper part of NW face route is rocky in the lower reaches. Face to the right (east) of the Spur leading either directly to summit or on upper west ridge appear to be feasible, albeit steep in photos.
NW Face (Cara Oeste). Snow, D; 500m. 1979-05-22First ascentBrian Hall, Nicolas Jaeger & Alan Rouse, 1979-05-22.
Tsacra Grande Norte-10.2841-76.95085529
1964-06-22
Tsacra Grande Norte, Lado NO,
First ascent
Lado NO: C. Comesaña & J.L. Fonrouge
1984-07-01
Tsacra Grande Norte, East side of Tsacra Grande Norte,
First ascent
East side of Tsacra Grande Norte: F. Veer & G.C. van Sprang
NE side
East side of Tsacra Grande Norte (Pared E & arista N). Snow/mixed, TD-; 750m. 1984-07-01First ascentF. Veer & G.C. van Sprang, 1984-07.
NW side
Lado NO. Snow/mixed, D-; 750m, 1d. 1964-06-22First ascentC. Comesaña & J.L. Fonrouge, 1964-06-22.
  • Tomé 137#1

Nevados Ancoccancha

Huacrish (Ancoccancha Principal, Auxilio Norte)-10.298611-76.9638895622
  • Huacrish Principal (5622m-10.298611-76.963889)
  • Huacrish Norte (5560m)
Peak located immediately SW of Tsacra Grande and Tsacra Grande Oeste. All known ascent are from west. Naming of the peak seem to vary between different sources. The peak is marked as Huacrish on AV map and but called Ancoccancha Principal (Auxilio Norte) in Tomé guidebook.
1964-01-01
Huacrish, West face,
First ascent
West face: Leppert & Schmidt
1964-07-09
Huacrish, Vertiente SE al pico N,
First ascent
Vertiente SE al pico N: P. Berganelli, N. Calegari, S. Calegari, M. Curnis & C. Membrini
1977-06-03
Huacrish, NNW Rib,
First ascent
NNW Rib: Alan Rouse & Rab Carrington
SE side
Vertiente SE al pico N. AD; 600m, 1d. 1964-07-09First ascentP. Berganelli, N. Calegari, S. Calegari, M. Curnis & C. Membrini, 1964-07-09.
  • Tomé 1421#3
South ridge
Arista Sur. 30-40°, III; 600m, 1d.
via collado Ancocancha (5325m).
  • Tomé 1421#4
West side
Immediately above laguna Huacrish.
West face. AD+; 600m. 1964-01-01First ascentLeppert & Schmidt, 1964.
NNW Rib (Arista N-NO al pico N). Mixed, AD+; 600m. 1977-06-03First ascentAlan Rouse & Rab Carrington, 1977-06-03.
Ancoccancha Este-10.3139-76.95715557
1984-08-08
Ancoccancha Este, Arista Este,
First ascent
Arista Este: M. Lowe & C. Marsh
east side
Arista Este. 1984-08-08First ascentM. Lowe & C. Marsh, 1984-08-08.
  • Tomé 142#1
Ancoccancha (Ancoccancha Central, Ancoccancha Sur)-10.3057-76.96535450
1964-06-22
Ancoccancha, Vertiente N y arista O,
First ascent
Vertiente N y arista O: J.L. Fonrouge, C. Comesaña & A. Bachmann
West side
Directly above laguna Huacrish
Vertiente N y arista O (West Ridge). PD+; 30-50°; 450m, 1d rountrip. 1964-06-22First ascentJ.L. Fonrouge, C. Comesaña & A. Bachmann, 1964-06-22.
Safe and moderate ridge climb.

Diablo Mudo group

Diablo Mudo-10.297089-76.9800895350
Possibly the easiest snow peak in Cordillera Huayhuash. Often climbed as part of Huayhuash trek, likely the most frequently climbed peak on Cordillera Huayhuash. Four main ridge: NE Ridge towards Suerococha, SE ridge on East-West chain from Rajupunta, West ridge on east-West chain towards Tapush and NW ridge with Cerro Nitishcocha.
NW Ridge
NW Ridge. PD; II, 45°; 800m/3km, 7h roundtrip.
Normal route. F until Silent Col (5250m), PD to summit.
  • Frimer #39
  • Biggar 2005 pp.98
North Ridge (Arista Norte)

Yanapacsac-Jurauraju

Jurauraju group

Jurauraju Sur5335
2003-01-01
Jurauraju Sur, NE Ridge,
First ascent
NE Ridge: Jeremy Frimer
East side
SE slopes. trekking; 100m/4km.
  • Frimer #102
NE Ridge. PD; 300m. 2003-01-01First ascentJeremy Frimer, 2003.
  • Frimer #103

Puscanturpa group

Puscanturpa Norte5652
Highest and by far the most climbed peak of Puscanturpa's. Very steep North face is the steepest face on Huayhuash and it has the highest concentration of routes. West side has much easier routes.
1954-07-16
Puscanturpa Norte, Vertiente NE,
First ascent
Vertiente NE: S. Aeberli, W. Gruber, M. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer
1975-01-01
Puscanturpa Norte, NW Ridge,
First ascent
NW Ridge: Bianchi, Buselli, Buizza, Coneva, De Polenza, Milani, Mora & Pozzoli
1981-01-01
Puscanturpa Norte, Ruta Italiana 1981,
First ascent
Ruta Italiana 1981: Ozzola & 13 Italians
1984-01-01
Puscanturpa Norte, Ruta Italiana 1984,
First ascent
Ruta Italiana 1984: Bianchi, Mora, Antonietti & Mondinelli
1988-01-01
Puscanturpa Norte, Manera-Unione,
First ascent
Manera-Unione: Manera & Sant'Unione
2000-01-01
Puscanturpa Norte, Pasta Religion,
First ascent
Pasta Religion: Xavier Baudry, Lionel Daudret & Francois Lombard
2000-08-01
Puscanturpa Norte, Macanacota,
First ascent
Macanacota: Fréderic Paurrage, Alban Faure & Guillaume Arrisani
2002-01-01
Puscanturpa Norte, Italian,
First ascent
Italian: Balzan, Bones, Conforto & Zanetti
North Face
600m high very steep rock face with numerous difficult routes. By far the most completely explored face in Puscanturpa.
NW Ridge. TD-; 600m. 1975-01-01First ascentBianchi, Buselli, Buizza, Coneva, De Polenza, Milani, Mora & Pozzoli, 1975.
Manera-Unione (NW Pillar). TD+; III-IV,A2, 55°; 600m. 1988-01-01First ascentManera & Sant'Unione, 1988.
  • Frimer #114
  • Tomé 176#5
Pasta Religion. ED2; 7a+/5.12a; 600m. 2000-01-01First ascentXavier Baudry, Lionel Daudret & Francois Lombard, 2000.
Italian. ED2; 6c+,A4; 600m. 2002-01-01First ascentBalzan, Bones, Conforto & Zanetti, 2002.
Macanacota. ED2; 7b/c,A1; 600m. 2000-08-01First ascentFréderic Paurrage, Alban Faure & Guillaume Arrisani, 2000-08-01.
Barne Sua (7a+) is somewhat easier variation to original Manacota.
Ruta Italiana 1984 (North Face). TD+; 600m. 1984-01-01First ascentBianchi, Mora, Antonietti & Mondinelli, 1984.
Ruta Italiana 1981 (NE Face, Lowe route). Rock/snow, TD; 6a/VI; 550m, 14 pitches. 1981-01-01First ascentOzzola & 13 Italians, 1981.
SW Ridge
SW ridge. VI.
  • Biggar 1999 pp.84
West Face
Vertiente NE (West Face). D+; 550m. 1954-07-16First ascentS. Aeberli, W. Gruber, M. Bachmann & K. Lugnmayer, 1954-07-16.
Puscanturpa Sur (Punta Cuyoc)-10.3851-76.87435550
Located just north of punta Cuyoc (4950m).
1963-01-01
Puscanturpa Sur, East Face,
First ascent
East Face: Baltazar & Hensler
1974-01-01
Puscanturpa Sur, SW Ridge,
First ascent
SW Ridge: Casartelli, Veronelli, Biancardini & Bianchi
2005-07-20
Puscanturpa Sur, El Guardian de Pachama,
First ascent
El Guardian de Pachama: Oriol Anglada & Marisol Monterrechio
North Face
El Guardian de Pachama. 7c/6c+,A2; 670m, 16 pitches. 2005-07-20First ascentOriol Anglada & Marisol Monterrechio, 2005-07-20.
East side
East Face. AD; 650m. 1963-01-01First ascentBaltazar & Hensler, 1963.
SW side
SW Ridge (South Ridge). Glacier, PD+; 55°; 500m, 1 day from the pass. 1974-01-01First ascentCasartelli, Veronelli, Biancardini & Bianchi, 1974.
Puscanturpa Central-10.3750-76.86545442
1981-07-14
Puscanturpa Central, Cara O y arista N,
First ascent
Cara O y arista N: L. Ossola, Cremonesi, M. Broggi, G. Picone, L. Tessari & L. Visintine
2001-07-02
Puscanturpa Central, Insumision,
First ascent
Insumision: D. Rodríguez López
1981-07-14
Puscanturpa Central, Cara O y arista N,
First ascent
Cara O y arista N: L. Ossola, Cremonesi, M. Broggi, G. Picone, L. Tessari & L. Visintine
2001-07-02
Puscanturpa Central, Insumision,
First ascent
Insumision: D. Rodríguez López
South Face
Insumision. D; 65°; 450m. 2001-07-02First ascentD. Rodríguez López, 2001-07-02.
West Ridge
Cara O y arista N (West Ridge). Snow/mixed, AD; 400m. 1981-07-14First ascentL. Ossola, Cremonesi, M. Broggi, G. Picone, L. Tessari & L. Visintine, 1981-07-14.
Sueroraju-10.3677-76.86375439
1986-08-07
Sueroraju, Pendientes NE,
First ascent
Pendientes NE: British party
2011-06-14
Sueroraju, West face,
First ascent
West face: Oscar Sanchez, Luis Leon, Riccardo Dall'Ara & Eros Pedrini
North Face
unclimbed rock face
NE face
Pendientes NE. PD; 900m. 1986-08-07First ascentBritish party, 1986-08-07.
  • Tomé 171#1
West face
West face. Ice, 60°. 2011-06-14First ascentOscar Sanchez, Luis Leon, Riccardo Dall'Ara & Eros Pedrini, 2011-06-14.
Puscanturpa Este5410
1986-08-13
Puscanturpa Este, NW Ridge,
First ascent
NW Ridge: British party
2007-07-06
Puscanturpa Este, Stonehenge,
First ascent
Stonehenge: Pavle Kozjek & Grega Kresal
2012-07-30
Puscanturpa Este, Poco Loco,
First ascent
Poco Loco: Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher & Bas van der Smeede
North face
Poco Loco. Rock, TD+; VI+; 16h roundtrip. 2012-07-30First ascentVincent van Beek, Bas Visscher & Bas van der Smeede, 2012-07-30.
East Face
Stonehenge. Rock, VII+, 50-70°; 600m, 10 pitches, 14h. 2007-07-06First ascentPavle Kozjek & Grega Kresal, 2007-07-06.
SE face
Qiumplirgun Swerminganta. ED3; VII,A1, M5; 800m, 2 days.
NW Ridge
NW Ridge. AD-; 450m. 1986-08-13First ascentBritish party, 1986-08-13.
South Ridge
Guardian Spires5300
Unclimbed rock spires between 100m and 200m.

Cordillera Cochapata

Huacshash group

Huaqshash (Waqshash, Huacshash)-10.41389-76.975005644
Highest peak in Cordillera Cochapata. Located in SW part of the range.
1958-01-01
Huaqshash, ,
First ascent
Peruvian party from the north
1975-01-01
Huaqshash, ,
First ascent
Polish party via NW ridge
1979-07-04
Huaqshash, ,
First ascent
Baracchini, Bertolo & Masotti via SE ridge

Nevados Gochapampa

Gochapampa-10.4053-76.91385420
Between Pariaucro group in the west and Cuyocraju in the east.

Grupo de los Nevados Rascacielo

Rascacielo (Yurac Ccacca)5490
Located to the south of Gochampa.

Grupo de los Cuyocrajus

Pumarinri (Cuyocraju, Cuyocraju Sur)-10.406389-76.8777785465
Highest peak of Cuyocraju group and easternmost main peak in Cordillera Cochapata. Located close to Cyuoc Pass, to the south of Puscanturpa group and west of laguna Viconga.
1976-06-22
Pumarinri, Arista S,
First ascent
Arista S: M. Bulfoni & G. Menazzi
1976-06-22
Pumarinri, Arista S,
First ascent
Arista S: M. Bulfoni & G. Menazzi
SE slopes
Arista S (SE slopes). Glacier, F; 30°; 1000m. 1976-06-22First ascentM. Bulfoni & G. Menazzi, 1976-06-22.
Cuyocraju Central (Cuyocraju Norte, Jirishanca Chico I)-10.3908-76.89435320
Closes peak to punta Cuyoc (4950m).
NE slopes
NE slopes. F; 500m, 3h roundtrip from Punta Cyuoc.
Normal route. Easy to climb as a short detour from Punta Cyuoc (4950m) along Huahuash valley circuit trek.
  • Frimer #123
  • Tomé 180#1
Cuyocraju Norte I5239
NE slopes
Pendiente NE. F; 300m, 0,5d.
  • Tomé 181#1