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Cordillera Huayhuash

Cordillera Huayhuash resembles the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, although the peaks of Huayhuash are generally lower but technically more difficult. Cordillera Huayhuash is also less accessible, approaches take normally at least 2-3 days from Chiquian, located to the NW side of the range (3400m), that is nearest convenient center of Cordillera Huayhuash. It can be reached by bus from Huaraz or directly from Lima. During the recent years the mining activity has opened new access to Llamac (3300m), a a village in NW closer to the Huayhuash and further to Matacancha. Few peaks are more conveniently accessed from Cajatambo (3375m) in southwest (direct buses from Lima).

The range is very compact, it is just 35 from north to south. Huayhuash features a dozen major peaks which provide difficult climbs due to the frequency of avalanches of snow and ice. Six mountains (total of nine summits) rise above 6000m. Cordillera Huayhuash consista of two chains, the one running from north to south and smaller chain branching of from the N-S chain to the west and joining to N-S chain at Yerupaja, the highest peak in Cordillera Huayhuash.

In the northernmost part the chain consists of Ninashanca 5637 and Rondoy (5879m). Next towards south are imposing pyramid of Jirishanca (6094m, all routes very difficult), Jirishanca Chico., Yerupajá Chico (6124m), Yerupajá (6634m), Sarapo (6127m) and Siulá Grande (6344m). Siulá Grande is probably the best knowm peak of the range due to legendary first ascent of its West face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. The epic descent is described in "Touching the Void" by Joe Simpson and documentary film by the same name. Next towards south are Carnicero (5960m), Jurac (5600m), Trapecio (5644m), Puscanturpa (Norte 5652m, Sur 5550m), Cuyoc (5560m) and Pumarinri (5465m) are the most prominent peaks in the southern part of the range.

West-east chain contain Diablo Mudo, Huyacrish (5774m), Sacra (5548m) and Rasac (6017m) before it join North-South chain at Yerupaja.

Pariaucro (5590m) and Huagshash (5540m) are located in a separate massif to the SW of Cordillera Huayhuash. Cordillera Raura is located to the southeast.

Circuit trek around Cordillera Huayhuash is well known and considered one of the best in the world. Traditionall the lentgh from Chiquian to Chiquian has been 110 miles (12 days), but nowadays the route is a bit shorter if mining roads are used.

Logistics

Nearest major airport is Lima, from where it is 8h bus trip to Huaraz (3091m), located in a valley Callejón de Muaylos, is the mecca of Andinism.

  • Huaraz, Peru - Llamac, Peru (Google maps). Huaraz - Chiquian - Llamac (3300m). Llamac is located to NW of Cordillera Huayhuash.
  • Huaraz, Peru - Cajatambo, Peru (Google maps). SW of Cordillera Huayhuash.

Climbing info

Climbing info >

Climbing season lasts from May to Semptember with June and July typically considered best months for climbing. The area has typically heavy rains from December to March and a markedly dry season from May to October. During this period the weather cycle is very stable with several days of good weather followed by one or two of bad. Within this period, sunny days may have temperatures of 25°C. There will normally be overnight frost anywhere above around 4500m. Snow line is around 5000m.

Climbing info >

To organize cooks, porters, arrieros and burros (muleteers and mules) or guides, Casa de Guias in Huaraz is a good starting point. Arrieros and burros can also be organized in some of the more popular starting points (Cashapampa). Generally mules are used to transport gear to the base camp, porters being used mainly only if mules cannot be used. In more popular areas arrieros have arranged sort of a union so that they have fixed prices and amount of days.

Expect to pay:

  • $25/day for a cook (2002)
  • $10/day per arriero (2005)
  • $5/day per mule (2005)
  • $25/day for a porter (2002)

Note that the customers needs to provide porters, cook and arrieros with food and shelter.

Several companies organize climbs and treks in Cordillera Blanca.

Climbing info >

Most commonly used grading system is French adjectival system (IFAS). However, due to popularity of the area among Americans NCCS system is also sometimes used. Ice pitches are most commonly graded with steepness, however very steep routes are often graded with Wi grade or sometimes Scottish grade. Rock pithes are most often graded with uiaa rock grade, accompanied with standard aid climbing grade whenever applicable.

Climbing info >

Generally there are only few sources available. Guidebook by Jeremy Frimer is the best and most current source available in English.

Cross-referencing the sources can be troublesome as discrepancies between different maps and books both in names and heights can be considerable.

  • Biggar, John: The Andes, 2nd edition. Andes, 1999. Isbn: 9780953608706.
  • Biggar, John: The Andes - A Guide for Climbers, 3Rev Ed edition. Andes, 2005. Isbn: 9780953608727.
  • Frimer, Jeremy: Climbs & treks in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Elaho, 2005. Isbn: 0973303557.
  • Harper, Kate; Pitkethly, Val & Saunders, Victor: Trekking and Climbing in the Andes (Globetrotter Adventure Guide). New Holland Publishers Ltd, 2002. Isbn: 9781859743911.
  • Kielkowski, Jan: Cordillera Huayhuash Vol. 3. Explo Publishers, 1991. Isbn: KIELKOWSKIHUAYHUASH.
  • Kiendler, Hermann: Bergführer Anden: Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo - Bergführer Anden: Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo - Bergführer Anden: Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo - alle 6000er auf einen Blick, 1st edition. Panico Alpinverlag, 2007. Isbn: 9783936740363.
  • Neate, Jill: Mountaineering in the Andes. Hyperion Books, 1993. Isbn: 9780907649649.
  • Radehose, Eckehard: Traumberge Amerikas. Von Alaska bis Feuerland.. Bergverlag Rother, 2002. Isbn: 9783763330065.
  • Andes Handbook. Information about various mountains and their routes. Check also Spanish version for more information. Includes very good photos with marked route lines.
  • Andes website. Information Files on the Andes - Trekking, Climbing, Mountaineering and Skiing in South America. Good information by John Biggar, author of Andes guidebooks. Includes extensive mountains lists.
  • Cordillera Huayhuash. At SummitPost.
  • Mapping the Cordillera Huayhuash. Digital Alpine Cartography with Imperfect Data. By Martin Gamache.
  • Mountaineering in Peru
  • Silvio in America del Sud. By Silvio Sparano.
  • The Peruvian Andes
  • the huayhuash circuit. the walk around the cordillera huayhush takes between 8 and 12 days. we trekked for 8 days before leaving the circuit early because of illness. these are pictures from the eastern side of the cordillera. the huayhuash is home to peru's second highest peak - yerupaja at 6634m. By geniza.
Valleys >

NW side of Cordillera Huayhuash is the best bet for shorter trips as it is the most readily accessible area (1 day from Huaraz to BC). There are routes between the grades F-TD with particularly high concentration of routes graded D-TD. Classics include Cassin route on Jirishanca and SW Ridge of Yerupaja.

Most climbs in NW part of Huayhuash can be climbed from a base camp laguna Jahuacocha (4066m). Jahuacoccha is located on the NW side and it is accessed by taking a bus to Llamac (3300m, 2-3h) and trekking from there (13km, 780m).

  • Jahuacocha BC
    • 4066m.
    • Main base camp in NW side
    • Connections:
      • from Llamac, 950m, 15 km, 5h.
Valleys > NW BC's >

4750m

Valleys > NW BC's >
Valleys > NW BC's >
Valleys > NW BC's >
  • Tsacra Grande, NW Face (D)
  • Huacrish, West Face (AD+)
  • Huacrish, NNW Rib (AD+)
  • Ancoccancha, West Ridge (PD+)
Valleys >

Rockier and less climbed side. Nearly all roiutes are graded AD or harder. Generally the routes are not threatened by cornices but the weather tends to be the worst in Cordillera Huayhuash.

Laguna Carhuacocha located in northeastern side of the chain can be reached from Llamac by taking a truck from Llamac along the mining road to Matacancha at the base of Cancanampunta pass and hiking the rest. Alternative access is a bus from from Chiquian to La Union and collectivo to Queropalca (few hours hike from there).

  • Carhuacocha BC
    • 4138m.
    • Main base camp in SW side
    • Connections:
      • from Llamac, 2,5 days.
      • to Mitococha
      • to Chaclan lake
      • to Siula lake
      • to Suerococha
      • to Huayhuash valley
      • to Trapecio lake
Valleys >

Quality ice and mixed climbs. There are several moderate routes. The undeniable classic is "Touching the Void" on the West Face of Siula Grande.

  • Sarapococha BC
    • 4360m.
    • Main base camp in SW side
    • Connections:
      • from Llamac, 2,5 days.
      • to Segya valley
  • Pumarinri valley
    • Large Pumarinri valley in the souther part can serve as a base for southern climbs. Punta Cuyoc pass (4975m) provides access from the Pumarinri valley in the west to the eastern side.
Valleys >

Separate group located to the south of main Cordillera Huayhush with around 10 peaks rising to the altitude of 5100-5700m. Climbing potential largely undiscovered except for the north side of Puscantupa Norte. Rock is of volcanic origin, causing the peaks to by generally sharp spires.

  • Huanactapay BC
    • 4600m.
  • Viconga Lake BC
    • Located to the S of OPuscanturpa group.
  • Puscanturpa Norte, North side
  • Puscanturpa Sur
  • Puscanturpa Central
Mountains >

Northernmost peak of Cordillera Huayhuash, located between lagunas Solteracocha and Jahuacocha in the west and Mitucocha in the east.
NE side
ENE Ridge. AD+; 700m. Bonatti, Oggioni & Ferrario, 1961.

Frimer #41; AAJ 1962

NW side
NNW Face. TD-; IV; 800m.

Frimer #1

NW Spur. TD; 800m. Hall & Rouse, 1979.

Frimer #1; AAJ 1980; AAJ 1983

Minor rock peak located at the foot of Rondoy's West Ridge.
West face
  • Jahuacocha BC
NW Face. ED2; 1000m. Alan Rouse & Rab Carrington, 1977.

Frimer #4; AAJ 1978

SW Face. ED3; 90°, A2; 1000m. Becík & Porvazník, 1982.

Frimer #5

Spectacular pyramid located in the northern part of Cordillera Huayhuash, close to Yerupaja. Sometimes called as "Matterhorn of the Andes", and reputedly worth travelling half the world for. Notoriously difficult which should not come as a great surprise to anyone who has seen the mountain.

  • Jirishanca (6094m)
  • Jirishanca Norte (5989m)
1957
First ascent
 T. Egger & S. Jungmeier via East face and buttress (from laguna Carhuacoccha)
West face
Endless sheet of 60° ice and snow.
Cassin (West Rib). Ice/mixed, TD; 60-70°, IV+; 750m. Ricardo Cassin, 1969.

Frimer #9; Biggar 2005 pp.96; Kiendler #C1

NE face
SE face
Above Chaclan lake. Possibly the mightiest wall in Cordillera Huayhuash offering extensive mixed ground for elite alpinists.
  • Carhuacoccha, can be accessed from Llamac by car along mining road (2-3h)
Fear and Loathing. Ice, VII ED3/4; VII/WI6+/Sco Sco VII++, A2; 1050m, 25 pitches. Alan Powell & Nick Buttock, 2003.
First ascent in the central part of the face. Very steep, technical and daring route.

Frimer #9; Biggar 2005 pp.96

SW Face
SW Face. TD-ED; 700-800m.

Frimer #10, #11; Biggar 2005 pp.96; Kiendler #C1

Highest mountain in Cordillera Huayhuash, second highest in Peru and 13 highest peak in the Andes. Located in the central part of Cordillera Huayhuash and sometimes overshadowed by its lower neighbours of Jirishanca (6094m) and Siula Grande (6344m). All routes are difficult, there are only few successful ascents. West Face and SW Ridge have been the most used route but it has been out of condition during the recent years. Currently more remote East face may be easier.

  • Yerupaja (6617m)
  • Yerupaja Sur (6515m)
NE Face
base of the face at about 5300m. Several routes, all 1000m and ED1-2.
Slovenian. ED1; 65°, III; 1000m.

Frimer #58; AAJ 1978

American. ED2; 65°, III; 1150m. P.Dix & C.Jones, 1968.

Frimer #59; AAJ 1969

South face
South Face. Mixed, TD+; 1300m (47 pitches. Rab Carrington & Al Rouse, 1977.

Frimer #92; AAJ 1978

West side
West Face & SW Ridge. D; 60°; 800m, 12h. Marti, Wyniger, Schmied & Feitknecht, 1965.
. From Yerupaja-Seria Nortre Col (5740m) to along the RHS of West Face to South summit (6515m) and along SW ridge to main summit. Snow slope with seracs up to 60° to the South Summit followed by the traverse along SW Ridge (may be corniced) to main summit. There are three bergschrunds, two of which involve vertical climbing.

Frimer #20; Biggar 2005 pp.96-7; AAJ 1978; Kiendler #C2

West Face Direct. .
Route is destroyed. Climbs the face directly to the north side of main summit from laguna Jahuacocha.

Frimer #23; Biggar 2005 pp.96-7; AAJ 1966

NW Spur
TD-. Roger Bates & Graham Dingle, 1968.

Frimer #18; AAJ 1969

Located in Cordillera Huayhuash, in the central part of the massif. The second highest peak in Cordillera Huayhuash and propable the most famous. Famous for Joe Simpson's Epic "touching the Void" (1998, ISBN: 0099771012). It is filmed by Kevin Macdonald. All routes difficult. Especially 1000m high West Face and 900+ m high East Face. Arnold Awerzger & Erwin Schneider via North Ridge

NE face
Base of the face at about 5300m.
Austrian. D+; 70°; 800m. Schoisswohl, Blumenthaler, Grüner & Kaser, 1978.

Frimer #64; AAJ 1979

North Ridge. TD; III; 800m. Arnold Awerzger & Erwin Schneider, 1936.
Normal route. The First route to be climbed in Cordillera Huayhuash. Long, doubly corniced ridge with fragile ice cargoyles starting from Siula Grande-Yerupaja col (5730m).

Frimer #63; Biggar 2005 pp.99; Kiendler #C4

Los Rapidos. TD+/ED; 90/55-70°; 1000m. Marjan Kovac, Pavle Kozjek & Aritza Monasteri, 2002-07-03.

Frimer #65

Spanish. TD-; 900m. East Face, Anlada, Muñoz & Pons, 1963.

Frimer #66

West face
1000m high difficult ice face. There were several attems before the legendary ascent by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. There are currently (2005) four routes on the left side of the face (ED1-2), right hand side remains unclimbed.
Touching the Void (West Face). Ice, ED2; Sco VI/90°; 1000m/27 pitches. Joe Simpson & Simon Yates, 1985.
. Talk about mountaineering legend, the most famous route in Cordillera Huayhuash.

Frimer #97

South Face
Southern Discomfort. TD+/ED-; 650m.

Frimer #68; AAJ 2002

SSE Spur. D+; 890m. Baehler, Défago & Schaffter, 1981.

Frimer #67; AAJ 1982

West Buttress
Unclimbed. 1998 Simoin Yates and Mick Fowler made an attempt on a 900m buttress. They encountered climbing up to Scottish V and VI before running into unjustifiably dangerous ground.
ENE Ridge
ENE Ridge. IV.
South side
AD+-TD
  • Sarapococha BC

7th tallest peak in Cordilera Huayhuash, yet almost completely overlooked by climbers. There are only two routes.
North Face
North Face. D; 500m.

Frimer #71

SW Face

Biggar 2005 pp.99

Biggar 2005 pp.99

NE Face
NE Face. AD; 30-45°; 1300m. Krenmayr & Raditschnig, 1957.
Normal route. The easiest route and best descend.

Frimer #76

SE Face (South face)
Lowe. V ED1; V WI6+ VS; 700m. Jeff Lowe (incomplete), 1985.

Frimer #77; Ice World

Located immediately to the west of Yerupaja. Considered the easiest 6000m peak in Cordillerfa Huayhuash. There arehost of moderate ice/snow routes.
East side
300-400m high easily accessible face with several possible lines
SE Ridge. AD-D; 60°, II-III; 400m. Schneider, 1936.
. Possible the most popular route in Cordillera Huayhuash. From West Yerupaja glacier via Seria Norte-Rasac col (5750m).

Frimer #26; Biggar 2005 pp.99

East Face. AD+/nccs IV WI4 5.6; WI4, II-III/5.6; 400m.

Frimer #27; Biggar 2005 pp.99; Kiendler #C3

West side
Several routes around the grades D and D+. Middle buttress is a classic.

Frimer #28-33

Middle Buttress. D; 60°; 500m. Boraud & Esser, 1980.

Frimer #30; AAJ 1981; AAJ 1984

South Face
Steep and sustained routes
British 1977. ED1; Sco V/WI4; 900m. Rouse & Carrington, 1977. Boraud & Esser, 1980.

Frimer #85

Possible the easiest snow peak in Cordillera Huayhuash. Often climbed as part of Huayhuash trek, likely the most frequently climbed peak on Cordillera Huayhuash.
  • Quebrada Huancho and laguna Suerococha (4600m)
F/PD; II.

Biggar 2005 pp.98

Mountains >

Separate group located to the south of main Cordillera Huayhush with around 10 peaks rising to the altitude of 5100-5700m. Climbing potential largely undiscovered except for the north side of Puscantupa Norte. Rock is of volcanic origin, causing the peaks to by generally sharp spires.

One of the easier peaks in Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Sur (5550m)
  • Norte (5652m)
  • Central (5442m)
Puscanturpa Sur
  • Punta Cuyoc (4950m)
SW Ridge. PD+; 55°; 500m, 1 day from the pass.

Biggar 2005 pp.100

Puscanturpa Norte, SW ridge
  • Punta Cuyoc (4950m)
SW ridge. VI.
Puscanturpa Central
  • Punta Cuyoc (4950m)
Insumision. D; 65°; 450m.
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