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Cordillera Blanca

Isolated massif located to the north of Sanata Cruz. Very seldom visited.

Lado Norte (North side)
  • Quebrada Cullojhualla
Lado Norte. E. Hein & H. Hoerlin, 1932-06-05.

Tomé pp.39#1; Sharman pp.15

Arista Oeste
Arista Oeste. 15 days round trip. A. Awerzger & E. Schneider, 1936-07-02.

Tomé pp.39#1; Sharman pp.15

Lado NE
  • Quebrada Racuay via col de Sayhua
Lado NE. E. Schneider & H. Hoerlin, 1932-05-29.

Tomé pp.39#1; Sharman pp.15

SE side
Lado SE. Glacier, PD; 1200m, 1 day. F. & D. Marmillod, 1945.

Tomé pp.42#1; Sharman pp.16

Arista SE. Glacier, PD; 1200m, 1 day.

Tomé pp.42#2; Sharman pp.16

  • Central (5300m)
  • Sur (5150m)
  • Norte (5286m)
Central, North Ridge
Arista Norte. PD; 1 day.

Tomé pp.42; Sharman pp.16

Sur, NE Ridge
Arista NE. Rock, AD; 500m, 1 day.

Tomé pp.42; Sharman pp.16

Norte, South Ridge
Arista Sur. PD; 1 day.

Tomé pp.42; Sharman pp.16

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. Here lies picturesque Alpamayo (5947m) that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world. Together with neighboring Quitaraju (6036m) Alpamayo is the most popular climb in northern Cordillera Blanca. Other famous mountains include the namesake of the group, Santa Cruz Grande (6241m) and Taulliraju (5830m), located at the end of the Santa Cruz Valley.

Santa Cruz - Peak 5582 - Abasraju (5785m) - Quitaraju - Alpamayo - Jancaruruish (5601m) - Rinrijirca (6039m) - Pucajirca (6046m) - Taulliraju - Punta Union (4760m).

Santa Cruz >
Santa Cruz
1978-07-02
Santa Cruz Chico, NE Face,
First ascent		 NE Face: D. Michael, I. & L. Ortenburger
NE Face
NE Face. Snow, 12h from camp at 5200m. D. Michael, I. & L. Ortenburger, 1978-07-02.

Tomé pp.48#1; AAJ 1959; Sharman pp.17

West Ridge
West Ridge. Snow, TD; 2 days.

Tomé pp.48#1

Arista Oeste
Arista Oeste. TD; 1150m, 2 days.

Tomé pp.47#1; AAJ 1968; Sharman pp.17

Pared Sur
Pared Sur. Snow/rock, ED; 750m, 2 days.

Tomé pp.48#2; AAJ 1998

Highest peak of Santa Cruz area. Despite of this, not overly often climbed because there is no easy route to the summit. One further reason for this is that the peak is not easily seen. Massif running generally from South to North, located to the north of Quebrada Santa Cruz and to the East of lagunas Yuracoccha, Cuillicoccha and Rajucolta. All routes are difficult. West ridge is the most commonly climbed route, although access to south face is much shorter.

1948-07-20
Santa Cruz Grande, Swiss Route,
First ascent		 Swiss Route: F. Marmilloz & A. Szepessy
1977-05-31
Santa Cruz Grande, French Route,
First ascent		 French Route: R. Ghillini & Prud'homme
1977-05-31
Santa Cruz Grande, North Ridge,
First ascent		 North Ridge: N. Jaeger
1977-08-12
Santa Cruz Grande, SW Ridge,
First ascent		 SW Ridge: G. & P.Gloggner & F. Niedermaier
1978-06-15
Santa Cruz Grande, South face direct,
First ascent		 South face direct: N. Jaeger (solo)
1980-06-08
Santa Cruz Grande, West Ridge,
First ascent		 West Ridge: K. Hadley, R. Matons & M Wells
1980-08-05
Santa Cruz Grande, SW Face,
First ascent		 SW Face: J.M.Lang, B.Douillet & P.Sombardier

Biggar 2005 pp.60

North side
French Route (Cara NE). TD; 800m. R. Ghillini & Prud'homme, 1977-05-31.
On the left-hand side of the face.

Tomé pp.48#1; AAJ 1978; Sharman pp.20

Swiss Route (NE Face, Ruta Suiza, Cara NE). Snow/ice, D+/TD; 900m, 10-12h. F. Marmilloz & A. Szepessy, 1948-07-20.
First ascent route. From Lag. Jancarurish to the base of the climb (bergschrund at 5600m), then along steep right slanting ramp to N Ridge which is gained at approx. 6100m, then along the ridge to the summit.

Tomé pp.49#3; Sharman pp.19

North Ridge (Arista Norte). TD; 900m. N. Jaeger, 1977-05-31.
From the col between Santa Cruz Chico and Santa Cruz Grande along the ridge to the summit.

Tomé pp.49#4; AAJ 1978; Sharman pp.19

West side
SW Ridge (Arista SO). Snow/ice, D+; 55-60°; 900m. G. & P.Gloggner & F. Niedermaier, 1977-08-12.
From lagos Yuraccocha via SW Face runnels (55-60°) to ridge (5600m). Along the mixed ridge (40°) to the summit.

Tomé pp.50#7; Sharman pp.20

SW Face (Cara SO). ED-; 1000m. J.M.Lang, B.Douillet & P.Sombardier, 1980-08-05.
Face between West and SW ridges. Route follows the left-hand side of the face. not too far away from the West Ridge.

Tomé pp.49#6; AAJ 1981; Sharman pp.20

West Ridge (American route, Arista Oeste). Snow/ice, D+; 70°; 900m, 12-16h from the base of the ridge; 2-3 days from Yuraccocha. K. Hadley, R. Matons & M Wells, 1980-06-08.
Normal route. Most commonly climbed route on Santa Cruz Grande. From lagos Yuraccocha. High camp on the col between Quebrada Yuraccocha and Quebrada Rajucolta, near the base of the ridge (5300m, 2-3h from the BC). Passing the ice wall on the right via runnel (55-60°). Conditions vary greatly from year to year.

Johnson pp.38-39; AAJ 1981; AAJ 1991; Tomé pp.49#5; Kiendler #B3; Sharman pp.22

South side
Big remote face featuring almost 1000m on steep snow and ice with no easy way off. There are two other routes, Ecuatoriana (ED, 1200m) and Alemana (TD, 900m). Furthermore, SW Ridge is also possible from this side of the mountain.
South face direct (Jaeger, Cara S directa). Snow/rock, TD-; 900m, 10-12h from bergschrund. N. Jaeger (solo), 1978-06-15.
50-60° face with 200m of steep mixed ground. From Quebrada Paccharuri with high camp on the edge of the glacier (5000m, 3-4h from the base camp).

Johnson pp.42-43; Tomé pp.50#10; AAJ 1979; Sharman pp.20

East Face (Cara Este)
East Face (Cara Este). Snow/rock, TD; 700m, 1-2 days. Nicolas Jaeger, 1978-06-13.
Reportedly very serious

Tomé pp.54#2; Sharman pp.22; AAJ 1979

SW Face (Cara SO)
SW Face (Cara SO). Snow/rock, ED; 85°; 450m. D. Rodríguez & López, 1998-07-30.

Tomé pp.51

Santa Cruz >

Quitaraju - Alpamayo

Located above the Santa Cruz valley, immediately southeast of Alpamayo. Can be climbed from the col camp (5300m) between Quitaraju and Alpamayo (either North Face or W Ridge). Not nearly as popular as Alpamayo.
1936-06-17
Quitaraju, West Ridge,
First ascent		 West Ridge: A. Awerzger & E. Schneider
1964-07-11
Quitaraju, North Face,
First ascent		 North Face: E. Cotter, D. McKay, M. Nelson
1969-07-06
Quitaraju, Cara E & Arista SE,
First ascent		 Cara E & Arista SE: H. Saler, H. Schmidt, B. Scheckenbach, K. Scheckenbach, H. Susselmilch & W. Weinzierl
1976-07-07
Quitaraju, Cara O-NO,
First ascent		 Cara O-NO: R. Gilbert & P. Kellerman
1986
Quitaraju, Slovenian Route,
First ascent		 Slovenian Route: Slavko Sveticic & Z.Trusnovec
2001
Quitaraju, Central Buttress Direttissima,
First ascent		 Central Buttress Direttissima: Nick Bullock & Al Powell

Biggar 2005 pp.61-62

North side
North Face (Cara Norte). Snow/rock, D-; 55° (last 50m, mostly 50°)°; 400/650m, 3-5h (face only). E. Cotter, D. McKay, M. Nelson, 1964-07-11.
On the right side of central rock rib to the summit ridge some 80m to the west of the summit. From col camp between Alpamayo and Quitaraju to the bergschrund (1-2h).

Johnson pp.48-49; AAJ 1965; Tomé pp.57#6; Kiendler #B4; Sharman pp.22

North Face Direct. D; 60°; 700m.
700m ice climb with constant angle 60° from col camp between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. MOre of a variation of North Face rather than an independent line.
West Ridge (Arista Oeste). Snow, AD; 60°; 400/650m, 4-7h. A. Awerzger & E. Schneider, 1936-06-17.
Easiest route, however sustained and longer than north face. From Alpamayo Col Camp to Quitaraju-Loyacjirca col via North Flank (at first 40-45° last 200m 55°), then along the ridge to the summit.

Johnson pp.46-47; Tomé pp.55#2; Sharman pp.22

South Face (Cara Sur)
  • Quebrada Santa Cruz above laguna Ichiccocha
Slovenian Route. Snow/rock, TD; 50-80°; 800m, 2 days. Slavko Sveticic & Z.Trusnovec, 1986.

Tomé pp.55#3; Sharman pp.23

Central Buttress Direttissima. ED2; Sco VII,7/VI/WI6+/110°; 800m, 2 days. Nick Bullock & Al Powell, 2001.
East Face
Cara E & Arista SE. Snow/rock, TD+; 800m, 2-3 days. H. Saler, H. Schmidt, B. Scheckenbach, K. Scheckenbach, H. Susselmilch & W. Weinzierl, 1969-07-06.

Tomé pp.55#4; AAJ 1970; Sharman pp.23

WNW Face
Cara O-NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 900m. R. Gilbert & P. Kellerman, 1976-07-07.

Tomé pp.55#1; AAJ 1972; Sharman pp.22

Located in Santa Cruz massif, at the northernmost end of the Cordillera Blanca. Steep, beautifully shaped fluted pyramid of ice, known as the most beautiful mountain in the world. Today almost solely climbed via SW Face (especially Ferrari route on the leftern part of the face(AD+/D to summit ridge, very few actually make the traverse to main summit)).

1951
Alpamayo, North Ridge,
Event		 North Ridge: J. Jargen, G. Kogan, R. Leninger & M. Lenoir
1957
Alpamayo, South Ridge,
First ascent		 South Ridge: G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann
1966-07-20
Alpamayo, West Ridge,
First ascent		 West Ridge: M. Steinbeis & P. Gessner
1969, 06-26
Alpamayo, East Ridge,
First ascent		 East Ridge: H. Schmidt & W. Weinzerl
1970-07-06
Alpamayo, NE face,
First ascent		 NE face: J. Joll & J. Stanton
1975-06-20
Alpamayo, Ferrari,
First ascent		 Ferrari: Casimiro Ferrari & co.
1979-06-05
Alpamayo, Yugoslav route,
First ascent		 Yugoslav route: T. Cesen, M. Dolenc, P. Markic & Z. Trusnovic
1979-07
Alpamayo, American route,
First ascent		 American route: R. Wyatt & D. Jenkins
1980-06-30
Alpamayo, French Direct,
First ascent		 French Direct: W. Barker and S. Connolly
1993-06-28
Alpamayo, Vasco-Francesa,
First ascent		 Vasco-Francesa: A. Cayrot, Stephane, A. Monasterio & J.L. Domeño
1998-07-17
Alpamayo, Hispano-Chilena,
First ascent		 Hispano-Chilena: G. Alvarado & C. Cabeza

Radehose pp.90; Biggar 2005 pp.62-63

SW face (Cara SO)
Today Alpamayoy is almost solely climbed via SW Face (especially Ferrari route on the leftern part (AD+/D). Other runnels on the southwest face have been climbed as well (about TD). Basque French is located furthest to the left, then is Ferrari. then Perucvian-Canadian (1988) and on the right French direct.
West Ridge (Arista Oeste). Snow, TD; 500m. M. Steinbeis & P. Gessner, 1966-07-20.

Tomé pp.60#4; AAJ 1964; Sharman pp.26

Vasco-Francesa (Barque-French). Snow, D; 75°; 300m. A. Cayrot, Stephane, A. Monasterio & J.L. Domeño, 1993-06-28.

Tomé pp.61#5

Ferrari. Snow/ice, V AD+/D; Sco Sco III/70° (short section, avg. 45-55°)°; 350m from the bergschrund (7 pitches), 5-6h. Casimiro Ferrari & co., 1975-06-20.
Normal route. Most often climbed route on Alpamayo: Climbs from camp at 5300m a runnel on the left part of southwest face to the summit ridge; most climbers do not traverse to the true summit (D/TD). Too crowded for its own good. The route is generally equipped for rappel descent. Objectively dangerous as the climb is ice fall endangered both on approach to the col camp on on route itself (route ascends straight runnel with no place to cover against falling ice).

Johnson pp.50-51; Tomé pp.61#6; Kiendler #B2

French Direct (Directa Francesa). Snow/ice, D+/TD; 50-65°; 400m from the bergschrund (8 pitches). W. Barker and S. Connolly, 1980-06-30.
Ascents a runnel on the right-hand part of the face directly to the summit from col camp (5300m). Last pitch is rotten ice, ice fall danger. The route was named so because a summit ice tower collapsed and killed a French pair attempting the third ascent of the mountain.

Tomé pp.61#7; Sharman pp.25

Hispano-Chilena. Snow/rock, TD; 85°; 400m. G. Alvarado & C. Cabeza, 1998-07-17.

Tomé pp.62#8

South Ridge (Arista Sur). Snow/rock, TD; 400m, 2 days from col camp. G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957.

Tomé pp.62#9; Sharman pp.25

SE Face
Yugoslav route (Kranji route, Ruta Eslovena). Snow/rock, TD; 80; 800m. T. Cesen, M. Dolenc, P. Markic & Z. Trusnovic, 1979-06-05.

Tomé pp.62#10; AAJ 1981; Sharman pp.25

American route (Ruta Americana). Snow/rock, TD; 800m, 2 days. R. Wyatt & D. Jenkins, 1979-07.

Tomé pp.62#11; AAJ 1981; Sharman pp.25

East Ridge (Arista Este). Snow/rock, TD; 900m, 3-4 days. H. Schmidt & W. Weinzerl, 1969, 06-26.
via col 5200m between Alpamayo and Pucarashta Oeste. Also possible from laguna Quitaracsa

Tomé pp.63#12; AAJ 1970; Sharman pp.25

North side
North Ridge (Arista Norte). Snow/rock, D (up top summit ridge, traverse to the true summit TD); mostly 45-50°. J. Jargen, G. Kogan, R. Leninger & M. Lenoir, 1951.
First ascent route. From Lag. Jancarunish in Quebrada de los Cedros via col Norte (5670m). Also possible from col camp (5300m). Not commonly used because of high objective risk. However, the route does not suffer from crowd-generated risks.

Tomé pp.58#1; AAJ 1967; Sharman pp.24

NE side
NE face (Cara NE). Snow/rock, D/D+; 900m. J. Joll & J. Stanton, 1970-07-06.

Tomé pp.64#13; Sharman pp.25

Located to the north of Alpamayo between Quebrada Alpamayo and Quebrada de los Cedros.
Arista Norte
Arista Norte. Glacier, PD; 900m, 1 day.

Tomé pp.64#1; AAJ 1966; AAJ 1967; Sharman pp.26

Cara SE
Cara SE. Snow/rock, AD; 900m, 1 day.

Tomé pp.64#3; Sharman pp.27

Arista Este
Arista Este. Glacier, PD; 900m, 1 day.

Tomé pp.64#2; Sharman pp.26

Arista Sur
Arista Sur. Glacier, AD+; 900m, 1 day.

Tomé pp.64#4; NZAJ 1971; Sharman pp.27

Several routes between PD and AD+, 700-1100m and 1-2 days.

Tomé pp.65#1-5; Sharman pp.27

Santa Cruz >

Pucajircas - Taulliraju

Pucajircas - Taulliraju - Punta Union pass

South Face
South Face. Snow/rock, TD; 80°; 1000m from the glacier, 2 days. A. Paleari, 1982-05-28.

Tomé pp.77#4; AAJ 1983; Sharman pp.32

East Ridge (Arista Este)
East Ridge. Snow, AD+; 2 days.

Tomé pp.77#2; Sharman pp.32

North Ridge (Cara NE & Arista Norte)
North Ridge (Cara NE & Arista Norte). Snow/rock, TD; 500m from Taulliraju-Rinrihirca col. S. Calegari, A. Farino & O. Rosetti, 1960-06-29.
Via Taulliraju-Rinrihirca col (5300m)

Tomé pp.76#1; AAJ 1971; Sharman pp.31

Northernmost 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca. Marks the eastern end of Santa Cruz group. Long N-S chain of peaks located to the east of Alpamayo. Quiet peaks with few climbers. All climbs difficult (D-TD). Only recorded ascent on Pucajirca Norte is North Ridge. Central and south peaks are climbed more frequently, usually from Taullicocha in Quebrada Santa Cruz (D-TD).

  • Pucajirca Norte III (5919m)
  • Pucajirca Norte II (6030m)
  • Pucajirca Norte (6046m)
  • Pucajirca Central (6014m)
  • Pucajirca Sur (6039m)
  • Pucajirca Oeste (5900m)
  • Pucajirca Oeste II (5900m)
  • Pucajirca Este (5700m)

Biggar 2005 pp.63

Norte, North Ridge
North Ridge (Arista N). Snow, TD; 1000m, 9h from camp at 5400m. J. Nagakawa, J. Nakazima & T. Nakamura, 1961-06-12.

Tomé pp.69#1; Kiendler #B1; Sharman pp.28; AAJ 1962

Norte III, SE Ridge
SE Ridge (Arista SE). Snow, TD; 850m.

Tomé pp.69#2; AAJ 1956

Norte II, Arista NO
NW Ridge (Arista NO). Snow, TD; 900m.

Tomé pp.69#2; AAJ 1956

Central, Arista Este
Arista Este. Snow/rock, TD+; 1000m.

Tomé pp.71#2; AAJ 1978; Sharman pp.28

Central, Arista SO
Arista SO. Snow, TD; 600m.

Tomé pp.71#3; AAJ 1962; Sharman pp.28

Sur, Arista Sur
Arista Sur. Snow, D+; 1000m. E. Schneider, 1936-07-01.
Much easier to reach than the climbs of Pucajirca Norte.

Tomé pp.73#1; Sharman pp.28

  • Pucarashta Central (5650m)
  • Pucarashta Oeste (5450m)
  • Pucarashta Este (5700m)

Tomé pp.75-6; Sharman pp.29-31

"flower of ice", a very beautiful mountain located above the Punta Union Pass (4750m) at the end of Quebrada Santa Cruz. Can be considered a subsidiary summit of Pucajirca. Although it is located right next to a popular trekking route, is seldom climbed because all routes are difficult. Climbed usually from Quebrada Santa Cruz side with Base camp at 4500m via SW Face (several hard mixed routes, TD-ED). Few routes on North Face are slightly easier than SW face, but still plenty hard for most (TD).

1956-08-18
Taulliraju, North Face,
First ascent		 North Face: Lionel Terray & party
1978-05-31
Taulliraju, SSE Ridge,
First ascent		 SSE Ridge: J.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge, J. Fabre
1979-06-09
Taulliraju, via Jaeger,
First ascent		 via Jaeger: Nicolas Jaeger (solo)
1979-07-29
Taulliraju, North Face,
First ascent		 North Face: P. Busch & J. Baja
1980-08
Taulliraju, via Italiana,
First ascent		 via Italiana: Gianni Calcagno, Piero Perona, Ugo Vialardi, Constantino Piazzo, Tulio Vidoni & Stefano DeBenedetti
1982-05-26
Taulliraju, via Fowler - Watts,
First ascent		 via Fowler - Watts: Mick Fowler & Chris Watts

Biggar 2005 pp.64

North side
North Face (Cara N). Snow/rock, TD; 5.8,A1, 60°; 500/1500m. Lionel Terray & party, 1956-08-18.
From Taulliraju-Rinrijirca col via North Face and North East Ridge.

Tomé pp.78#1; AAJ 1957; Sharman pp.32

North Face (Cara N). Mixed, ED; 1500m. P. Busch & J. Baja, 1979-07-29.

Tomé pp.78#2; Sharman pp.32

SW Face (Cara SO, South side)
Most commonly climbed site, although all routes are very difficult (several hard mixed routes, TD-ED).
via Italiana. Snow/mixed, VI ED2; 5.9,A1, VI/WI6 M6; 900m. Gianni Calcagno, Piero Perona, Ugo Vialardi, Constantino Piazzo, Tulio Vidoni & Stefano DeBenedetti, 1980-08.
Classic. Climbs the SW Buttress in its entity while "Via Fowler" (TD+ WI4) and "via Canadiense" (TD+ 85°) avoid the start the buttress by climbing ice on the face of the SW buttress to climb the upper SW Buttress. "Via Fowler" by Charlie Fowler is not to be mixed up with "via Fowler - Watts".

Johnson pp.52-53; Tomé pp.78#4; Sharman pp.35

via Fowler - Watts (South Face East Buttress, Via Fowler). Mixed, ED3; V,A3+, AI6; 800m. Mick Fowler & Chris Watts, 1982-05-26.

AAJ 1983; Tomé pp.80#8; Sharman pp.33

via Jaeger. Mixed, ED1; 800m. Nicolas Jaeger (solo), 1979-06-09.
Climbs the couloir to the right of South face East Buttress to join SSE ridge for the upper half of the climb.

AAJ 1979; Tomé pp.80#10; Sharman pp.33

SSE Ridge (Arista S-SE, French Guides' Route). Snow, TD+/ED1; 70-85°; 800m. J.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge, J. Fabre, 1978-05-31.
Together with North face the easiest route. Long sections of ice at 60° steepest parts 70-85°. Very long ridge that climbs to the ridge close to Taulliraju Sur (5400m), then climbs the long ridge in its entity. Jaeger route is essentially a huge shortcut.

AAJ 1979; Tomé pp.80#11; Sharman pp.33

Huandoy group is located between Santa Cruz Valley in the north and Quebrada Llanganuco in the south. The highest peak of the area is Huandoy (6395m). However, the most popular climb of the area are Pisco and the beautiful pyramid Artesonraju (6025). Other important peaks for the climbers include Chacraraju, la Esfinge and Piramid de Carcilaso.

Huandoy Group >

Probably the largest Big-Wall site in Peru.
NE side
NE side (Arista NE). F; 800m. M. Gradl, A. Koch, H. Huber & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-26.

Tomé pp.92#1; AAJ 1956; Sharman pp.36

East face (Cara Este)
There are several aid and difficult free routes on the face.
1985 route. Rock, ED/nccs V 5.11c; VI+,A1/5.10,C1-2/5.11c/f6c-/7a/6a,A1(f6c+); 750m, 18 pitches. P. García & A. Gómez, 1985-07-08.

Johnson pp.64-5; Tomé pp.92#4; Sharman pp.36

  • Aguja Chica (5560m)
  • Aguja I (Aguja Sur) (5840m)
  • Aguja II (Aguja Norte) (5886m)
  • Aguja III (5775m)

Highest peak on the chain located between Quebrada Santa Cruz in the north and laguna Paron in the south. One of the easiest 6000m peaks in the range.
1955-06-14
Caraz Oeste, East glacier and NE Ridge,
First ascent		 East glacier and NE Ridge: H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt
1979-07-20
Caraz Oeste, South Face Direct,
First ascent		 South Face Direct: N. Hellewell & A. Sole
South face (Cara Sur)
Very difficult lines on steep ice and rock (up to 70°/V and A3).
  • Paron valley, From caretakers hut to moraine camp at 5000m above laguna Paron.
South Face Direct. TD+; 80°, V; 1000m, 10-12h. N. Hellewell & A. Sole, 1979-07-20.

Johnson pp.68-69; Tomé pp.96#5; AAJ 1980; Sharman pp.39

East side
East glacier and NE Ridge (SE and E slopes, Vertiente Este). D; 60°; 900m, 6-8h from high camp. H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-14.
Relatively non-technical route but variable glacier conditions. Camp at 5200m. From there via plateau between Caraz I and II (5700m). Final pitches snow up to 60°.

Johnson pp.70-71; Kiendler #B6; Tomé pp.95#2; AAJ 1956; Sharman pp.38

1955-06-16
Caraz Este, East Ridge,
First ascent		 East Ridge: H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt
South Face
SW Face. PD.
Normal route. Approach as for the East Slopes of Caraz I

Sharman pp.39

East Ridge (Arista SE). AD; 60°; 800m. H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-16.
From Laguna Paron to plateau between Caraz I and II (5700m), then via South face ice runnels to summit

Tomé pp.96#1; AAJ 1956; Sharman pp.39

East Face
Difficult routes on East face couloirs.

Classic pyramid peak accessible from Quebrada Santa Cruz (NE face, N Ridge) and Quebrada Paron (SE Face, SE arete). The shape of Artesonraju is possibly the best-known mountain in the world as it's north side features in the logo of Paramount Pictures, just the stars are missing. Technically easiest route is North Ridge with AD+. However, SE Face is far more frequented. SE arete offers more technical alternative to SE Face.

1932-08-19
Artesonraju, North Ridge,
First ascent		 North Ridge: E. Hein, E. Schneider (Germany)
1965
Artesonraju, NE face and East Ridge,
First ascent		 NE face and East Ridge: Hartmann, Reiss, Schatz & Steiger
1969-06-24
Artesonraju, South-East Face,
First ascent		 South-East Face: K. Schreckenbach, H. Saler & K. Sussmilch
1971-07-09
Artesonraju, East Ridge,
First ascent		 East Ridge: B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger
1977-11-01
Artesonraju, NE face and East Ridge,
First ascent		 NE face and East Ridge: T. Ammons & P. Kelemen
1979
Artesonraju, Cara SO,
First ascent		 Cara SO: A. Sole & G. Spohr
1993-07-18
Artesonraju, SE Arete,
First ascent		 SE Arete: T. Sbrizaj, S. Semrajc & B. Naglic
North side
NE face and East Ridge. D+; 80° (mixed headwall 10m, mostly 60°)°, IV; 800m (5-7h) from the glacier, 1200m (10-12h) from the camp. T. Ammons & P. Kelemen, 1977-11-01. Hartmann, Reiss, Schatz & Steiger, 1965.

Johnson pp.54-55; AAJ 1978; Tomé pp.100#5; Sharman pp.40

North Ridge. AD+/D; 60°; 800m (6-8h) from the glacier, 1200m (10-12h) from the camp. E. Hein, E. Schneider (Germany), 1932-08-19.
Easiest route, although not nearly as popular as South-East Face. From Quebrada Santa Cruz. Final part up to 60° ridge crest exposed.

Johnson pp.56-57; AAJ 1933; Tomé pp.100#6; Sharman pp.40

South side
Cara SO. TD; 50-80°; 900m. A. Sole & G. Spohr, 1979.

Tomé pp.98#1; AAJ 1980; Sharman pp.41

SE Arete (Arista Sur, Eslovena, SE Face & Buttress). TD+; 80-85°, IV; 800m from camp at Paron glacier (5200m). T. Sbrizaj, S. Semrajc & B. Naglic, 1993-07-18.
More technical alternative to SE Face. From Paron valley. Joins the SE face in the upper part.

Johnson pp.74-75; AAJ 1994; Tomé pp.98#2; Sharman pp.41

South-East Face. Snow, IV D+; 800m from camp at Paron glacier (5200m), 7-9h. K. Schreckenbach, H. Saler & K. Sussmilch, 1969-06-24.
Normal route. Most favorable and most often used route through the central couloir on the face. The general inclination of the face is 45-55 degrees (60° on the last 100m). It is purely packed snow climbing.

Johnson pp.76-77; Frimer pp.42-3; Tomé pp.99#3; Kiendler #B5; Sharman pp.41

East Ridge. Snow/ice, D-; 40-50°; 900m. 1-2 days from Paron glacier. B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-09.
Snow/ice ridge. It is possible to gain the col from north (Quebrada Santa Cruz) or south (from a camp on Paron glacier, 5200m).

Tomé pp.99#4; AAJ 1972; Sharman pp.41

  • Paria (Paron Grande) (5600m)
  • Paron Sur (5500m)
SW Face
  • Paron valley
SW Face to West Ridge. AD-; 55°; 250m.

Frimer pp.42-3; Tomé pp.100?; Sharman pp.42

  • Piramide de Garcilaso (5885m)
  • Piramide Norte (5700m)
NW face (Cara NO)
Several lines around D or D+ (50-55°) and 500m.
NW face (Cara NO). D+; 1 day from glacier camp. G. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957-05-29.

Tomé pp.102#1; AAJ 1958; AAJ 1972; Sharman pp.42

West Ridge (Arista Oeste)
West Ridge (Arista Oeste). ED; 900m.

Tomé pp.102#2; AAJ 1979; Sharman pp.42

SW face (Cara SO)
  • Paron BC, Camp on glacier at 5000m, 3-4h from BC.
SW Face Direct. TD+; 80°, IV; 800m, 8-12h. R. Renshaw & P. Wilkinson, 1979-07-23.
Challenging mixed climb directly to the summit.

Johnson pp.78-79; AAJ 1980; Tomé pp.103#3; Sharman pp.42

Huandoy Group >
  • Yanapaccha (5460m)
  • Yanapaccha Norte (5380m)
West face (Cara Oeste)
West face (Cara Oeste). IV PD+/AD-; 40-45°; 550m, 5-8h from moraine camp. D. Mackay & H. Tothill, 1959-07-08.

Johnson pp.104-5; AAJ 1960; Tomé pp.105#2; Sharman pp.46

Chacraraju
    Very difficult mountain, considered to be the highest 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca.

Possibly the hardest summit in Peru. Part of Huandoy massif in the northern Cordillera Blanca. Normally climbed via South Face, although the routes on north side might may slightly less difficult (still ED1, though).

1956-07-31
Chacraraju Oeste, Cara NE,
First ascent		 Cara NE: M. Davaille, R. Jenny, M. Martin, R. Sennelier, P. Saurioc & L. Terray
1964-08-23
Chacraraju Oeste, Arista Norte,
First ascent		 Arista Norte: H. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost & L. Ortenburger
1977
Chacraraju Oeste, French Direct,
First ascent		 French Direct: Titoune Meunier & John Bouchard
1982
Chacraraju Oeste, Slovenian Route,
First ascent		 Slovenian Route: Freser & Knez
1982-06-08
Chacraraju Oeste, Yugoslav Route,
First ascent		 Yugoslav Route: Freser & Knez
1996-06-29
Chacraraju Oeste, Cara Oeste,
First ascent		 Cara Oeste: D. Debelan, V. Mliner, T. Zerovnik, I. Oblan, A. Monasterio, A Nerman & J. Cajzek
South face
One of the most challenging test pieces in the Andes. There are several routes, all of them difficult.
French Direct (Directa Francesa). Ice, ED1/2; 90°; 2-3 days, 950m. Titoune Meunier & John Bouchard, 1977.
Probably the easiest route on Chacraraju Oeste.

Johnson pp.98-99; AAJ 1984; Tomé pp.109#5; Kiendler #B7; Sharman pp.44

Slovenian Route (Ruta Eslovena). ABO; VII+,A3, 95°; 945m. Freser & Knez, 1982.

Tomé pp.110#8; Sharman pp.43

Yugoslav Route. ED1/2; 90°; 2-3 days, 900m. Freser & Knez, 1982-06-08.

Sharman pp.43

NE face
to col between the summits on the East Ridge, 3-4 days.
  • Quebrada Huaripampa
Cara NE. ED; 1000m. M. Davaille, R. Jenny, M. Martin, R. Sennelier, P. Saurioc & L. Terray, 1956-07-31.
First ascent route on Chacraraju Oeste

Tomé pp.108#1; AAJ 1957; Sharman pp.43

Arista Norte
Arista Norte. ED+; 800m. H. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost & L. Ortenburger, 1964-08-23.

Tomé pp.108#2; AAJ 1965; Sharman pp.43

Cara Oeste
Cara Oeste (Ruta Alpos-facig-Slovenue). ABO; A3, 95°; 950m. D. Debelan, V. Mliner, T. Zerovnik, I. Oblan, A. Monasterio, A Nerman & J. Cajzek, 1996-06-29.

Tomé pp.108#3; AAJ 1997

1962-08-05
Chacraraju Este, Arista NE,
First ascent		 Arista NE: L. Dubast, P. Gendre, G. Magnone, J. Souris & L. Terray
1972
Chacraraju Este, Japonesa,
First ascent		 Japonesa: D. Kochi & Tanaka
1978-07-05
Chacraraju Este, Jaeger Route,
First ascent		 Jaeger Route: Nicolas Jaeger
South face
One of the most challenging test pieces in the Andes.
Jaeger Route (Grand Couloir). ED1; 650m, 7-10h. Nicolas Jaeger, 1978-07-05.
Most popular route on Este. Less difficult and committing than routes on Oeste. At first 50-65° on the couloir leading to the summit tower. Summit tower steeper (60-80°).

Johnson pp.100-101; Tomé pp.106#4; Sharman pp.45

Japonesa. ED; 700m. D. Kochi & Tanaka, 1972.

Tomé pp.106#1; Sharman pp.45; AAJ 1985

Hispano-Peruviana.

Tomé pp.106#3; Sharman pp.45

Arista NE
Arista NE. ED; 800m. L. Dubast, P. Gendre, G. Magnone, J. Souris & L. Terray, 1962-08-05.

Tomé pp.107#7; AAJ 1963; Sharman pp.44

Pisco

One of the easiest on most frequented peaks in Cordillera Blanca.
1951-07-12
Pisco Oeste, SW slopes,
First ascent		 SW slopes: C & G. Kogan, R. Ceninger & M. Lenoir
South side
There are several steep ice routes on south face, the easiest being AD/D.
SW slopes (Arista SO). IV PD/nccs II 45°; 45°; 850m, 3-5h from moraine camp. C & G. Kogan, R. Ceninger & M. Lenoir, 1951-07-12.
Normal route. Potentially serious crevasses.

Johnson pp.96-7; Frimer pp.40-1; Tomé pp.111#1; Kiendler #B8; Sharman pp.48

Cara Sur. D; 350m/1200m.

Tomé pp.111#3; Sharman pp.48; AAJ 1979

Cara Este. ED; 90°; 350m.

Tomé pp.112#6

Arista NE
  • col 5550m between Pisco Oeste and Pisco Este.
Arista NE. TD; 300m.

Tomé pp.112#7; Sharman pp.48

One of the easiest on most frequented peaks in Cordillera Blanca.
1971-06-23
Pisco Este, Pendiente Norte & Arista NO,
First ascent		 Pendiente Norte & Arista NO: J. Glidden, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & R. Reese
1985-06-12
Pisco Este, Arista Este,
First ascent		 Arista Este: L. %amp; M. Dalla Palma
north side
Pendiente Norte & Arista NO. AD-; 600m. J. Glidden, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & R. Reese, 1971-06-23.

Tomé pp.117#6; AAJ 1972; Sharman pp.46

Cara Norte. D; 600m.

Tomé pp.117#5; AAJ 1972; Sharman pp.46

North side
Pendiente Oeste & Arista NO. D-; 500m.

Tomé pp.110#1; AAJ 1960

Cara SO.

Tomé pp.110#2; AAJ 1961; Sharman pp.47

Arista Sur. TD; 500m.

Tomé pp.110#3; AAJ 1982; Sharman pp.46

Arista Este
Arista Este. ED; 500m. L. %amp; M. Dalla Palma, 1985-06-12.

Tomé pp.111#4; Sharman pp.46

Huandoy Group >
Huandoy
    The second highest peak in Cordillera Blanca. Large massif with four main summits and no non-technical route to any of the summits. Furthermore, none of the routes is objectively very safe.

Radehose pp.95

The second highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca (together with Huantsan). There are three distinct Huandoy summits, sometimes Chacraraju summits are considered part of Huandoy as well. Mostly climbed from Qebrada Demanda (hut at 4600m). South Face is 1000m wall of rock and ice. Also possible from laguna Paron (north side, much longer). Three main summits can be climbed from a high camp on Huandoy Plateau (5800m).

1932
Huandoy Norte, South Slopes,
First ascent		 South Slopes: E. Hein & E. Schneider
1971-07-18
Huandoy Norte, Northwest Face,
First ascent		 Northwest Face: J. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger
1974-07-28
Huandoy Norte, NE Face,
First ascent		 NE Face: G. de Naurois, M. Parmentier
1976-08-18 & 1976-08-17
Huandoy Norte, East Face,
First ascent		 East Face: J. Stryczynski & W. Waligora
SE side
  • Pisco BC via high camp at 4600m.
East Icefall. AD+; 45°; 2-3 days.
Normal route. From the hut in Quebrada Demanda. Camp at Huandoy Plateau (5800m) above the icefall.

AAJ 1960

South Slopes (Pendientes Sur). AD+/D-; 35-45°, III - IV. E. Hein & E. Schneider, 1932.
Moderately steep glacier climb, with some technical challenges in the approach. Severe stone fall danger. From the hut in Quebrada Demanda.

AAJ 1955; Tomé pp.114#1; Sharman pp.50

NW side
  • Paron valley, Moraine camp at 4750 in SE direction from Caretakers hut
Northwest Face. Snow/ice, D+; 45-55°, IV+ (mixed, several pitches); 800m, 10-12h. J. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-18.
Direct ascent, primarily on snow and ice, with a rock band guarding the top.

Johnson pp.80-1; AAJ 1972; Kiendler #B9; Tomé pp.116#5; Sharman pp.50

NE side
NE Face (North-North-East Ridge). D+; 70°, III; 1200m from the bottom of the couloir. 1-2 days. G. de Naurois, M. Parmentier, 1974-07-28.
Normal route. Easiest route. From the Paron valley (camp on glacier at 5200m). At first 400m couloir to the col (5850m) on the ridge that separates Huandoy Norte from Huandoy Este (mostly 50° last 100m 70°; 3-5h, possible camp). The ridge itself is 50-55° snow/ice for 500m capped with final rock barrier (10m of uiaa III).

Johnson pp.94-5; AAJ 1975; Tomé pp.115#3; Kiendler #B9; Sharman pp.50

East Face (Cara Este, Ruta Polaca). D; 80° (mixed, last 3 pitches)°, III; 1100m (face), 1500m, 2-3 days round trip from moraine camp. J. Stryczynski & W. Waligora, 1976-08-18 & 1976-08-17.
Moderately difficult mixed climb.

Johnson pp.92-3; AAJ 1978; Tomé pp.115#2; Sharman pp.50

1954-07-28
Huandoy Oeste, East slope & NE Ridge,
First ascent		 East slope & NE Ridge: L. Ortenburger, R. Irvin & W. Mathews
1978-08-29
Huandoy Oeste, Cara SO,
First ascent		 Cara SO: N. Jaeger
Cara Norte
Cara Norte. TD; 900m, 3 days.

Tomé pp.118#2; AAJ 1986

NE Ridge
East slope & NE Ridge (Arista NE). AD-; 45°; 850m. One day round trip from glacier camp at 5600m. L. Ortenburger, R. Irvin & W. Mathews, 1954-07-28.

Johnson pp.90-91; AAJ 1955; Tomé pp.117#1

Cara Sur
Contrafuerte Sur. TD+; 1000m.

Tomé pp.119#5; AAJ 1974

Cara SO
Cara SO. TD+; 1000m, 2-3 days. N. Jaeger, 1978-08-29.

Tomé pp.118#4; AAJ 1979

Arista Oeste
Arista Oeste. TD+; 1000m, 5-6 days.

Tomé pp.118#3; AAJ 1976

1955-07-15
Huandoy Sur, NW Slopes,
First ascent		 NW Slopes: P. Koch & H. Schmidt
1979
Huandoy Sur, French route,
First solo ascent		 French route: Y. Astier
1995-08-09
Huandoy Sur, Oro del Inca,
First ascent		 Oro del Inca: P. Kozjek
North side
French route (Cara NE). TD; 80°, III; 1000m, 8-10h. Y. Astier, 1979.
Challenging snow and ice climb on NE face. Camp at 5200m (5-6h from Pisco BC). At first 100m of uiaa III, then 700m of 55° snow/ice diagonally to the central ice gully of summit pyramid (200m of 60-70° and 3m of steep mixed climbing (80°).

Johnson pp.88-89; AAJ 1982; Tomé pp.122#6

Oro del Inca (Cara NE). ED; VI-, 85°; 1000m. P. Kozjek, 1995-08-09.

Tomé pp.122#7; AAJ 1996

NW Slopes (Cara NO). AD/D; 45°; 1500m, 5h. P. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-07-15.

AAJ 1956; Tomé pp.123#8

Arista Este
Arista Este. TD; 1000m.

Tomé pp.122#5; AAJ 1973

SW side
SW Buttress. D; 900m.
Probably the easiest route on Huandoy summits.

Tomé pp.119#1; AAJ 1965

South Face
Overhanging and desperately difficult routes on South face.
Ruta Francesa. ED; 1000m.

Tomé pp.120#2

Ruta Japonesa. ED; A2, 70°; 1000m.

Tomé pp.121#3; AAJ 1977

Ruta Italiana. ED; A2, 70°; 1000m.

Tomé pp.121#4; AAJ 1977

1969-07
Huandoy Este, West Ridge,
First ascent		 West Ridge: J. Hudson & R. Laba
West Ridge
West Ridge (Arista Oeste). D+; 1300m, 2-3 days. J. Hudson & R. Laba, 1969-07.

AAJ 1970; Tomé pp.113#1; Sharman pp.49

South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m.

Huascaran
    Highest mountain of Peru and Cordillera Blanca. The name 'Huascaran' means literally 'purple'. Indian legends however, refer to Huascar, a local prince executed on the spot where the mountain now stands. Lower Norte is more important climbing goal than higher Sur if technically difficult climbing is your cup of tea. Sur is rarely climbed on anything else than Garganta route, which is one of the technically easiest climbs in Cordillera Blanca. However, access to Garganta camp has ice fall danger. There are several hard routes (TD or more) on NE and E faces of Huascaran Sur and especially on the north face of Huascaran Norte.

World Mountaineering pp144-7; Radehose pp.102

1932-07-20
Huascarán Sur, Garganta,
First ascent		 Garganta: H. Bernard, P. Barchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin & S. Schneider
1969-07-15
Huascarán Sur, Escudo,
First ascent		 Escudo: W. Broda, J. Merler & Segger
1991-07-14
Huascarán Sur, Slovenian Route,
First ascent		 Slovenian Route: P. Kozjek
West side
Garganta (Glacier Oeste, Ruta N, NW Ridge). Snow/ice, PD/AD/nccs IV 45; II, 45°; 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho. H. Bernard, P. Barchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin & S. Schneider, 1932-07-20.
Normal route. Normal route located on the west slope, regarded as one of the easiest technical climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Possibly serious. Lots of glacier travel with big crevasses. Avalanche danger unavoidable. The key is the access through icefall (45°) to Garganta, the col between South and North summits (5980m, C1 at 4900m, C2 at 5400m). From there to summit snow and ice up to 40°.

Johnson pp.122-123; Tomé pp.135#6; Kiendler #B12; Sharman pp.60; World Mountaineering pp.146#9

Escudo (Shield, West Face, Arista Oeste). Ice, D+; 50-60°; 400m. 10h from Garganta camp (5900m). W. Broda, J. Merler & Segger, 1969-07-15.
Started from the climb to Garganta camp via a traverse to the west face. Ice wall known as "Shield" is gained at 6000m. At the top of the ice wall route joins to NW Ridge (normal route) at 6400m.

Johnson pp.124-5; AAJ 1970; Tomé pp.136#7; Sharman pp.60

North side
All routes are 1500m long, objectively dangerous, difficult (TD-ED2) and take around 3-4 days.
Slovenian Route. VI TD+; VI/AI3-4, IV/V; 1300m. P. Kozjek, 1991-07-14.
Northeast face of South Summit.

Tomé pp.133#3; AAJ 1992; Sharman pp.58

American route. VI TD+; 50-75°, V.
Probably the easiest route on the face. Serious.

World Mountaineering pp.147#12

1908-09-02
Huascarán Norte, South Ridge,
First ascent		 South Ridge: A. Peck, R. Taugwalder, G. zum Taugwald
1966-07-10
Huascarán Norte, Paragot,
First ascent		 Paragot: R. Jacob, C. Jaccoux, D. Leprince-Ringuet & R. Paragot
1973-08-18
Huascarán Norte, French Direct,
First ascent		 French Direct: Maurice & Liliane Barrand
1974-07-25
Huascarán Norte, Arista NO,
First ascent		 Arista NO: E. Detonasi, C. Piazzo, D. Sactove & R. Vidone
1977-06-21
Huascarán Norte, Casarotto,
First ascent		 Casarotto: Renato Casarotto
South side
  • Huascaran BC
South Ridge (South slopes from Garganta, Arista Sur). Snow/ice, PD+/AD-; 650m from Garganta. 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho. A. Peck, R. Taugwalder, G. zum Taugwald, 1908-09-02.
Normal route. Base camp at 4150m. Lots of glacier travel with big crevasses. Avalanche danger unavoidable. The key is the access through icefall (45°) to Garganta, the col between South and North summits (5980m, C1 at 4900m, C2 at 5400m).

Johnson pp.120-1; Tomé pp.135#6; Kiendler #B11; Tomé pp.132#9; Sharman pp.57; World Mountaineering pp.146#1

NE face
Somewhat easier than the North face. Classic routes include "French Direct" on NE Face (TD/ED, uiaa V,A2, 60°), and NE Ridge (ED1, uiaa V, 65°))
  • From Llanganuco valley
French Direct. TD+; V+,A2; 1350m, 2+ days. Maurice & Liliane Barrand, 1973-08-18.

Johnson pp.108-9; AAJ 1974; Tomé pp.129#1; Sharman pp.57; World Mountaineering pp.146#2

North face
There are several difficult routes between grades ED1 and ED3 on the 1600m north face of Huscaran Norte: "Casarotto" (ED3) and "Paragot" (ED1) are probably the best known.
  • From Llanganuco valley
Casarotto (Italian Direttissima). ED3; A2/3,VI+; 1300m. Renato Casarotto, 1977-06-21.

AAJ 1978; Tomé pp.132#5; Sharman pp.56; World Mountaineering pp.146#6

Paragot (North Peak French Route). Mixed, ED1; 80-90°, V-,A1/V+; 1600m. R. Jacob, C. Jaccoux, D. Leprince-Ringuet & R. Paragot, 1966-07-10.
Classic. Classic hard route, relatively often climbed. Steep ice, lots of mixed climbing and difficult rock.

Johnson pp.112-3; AAJ 1967; Tomé pp.132#6; Sharman pp.55; World Mountaineering pp.146#7

NW Ridge
  • From Garganta approach to West glacier of Huascaran Norte
Arista NO (Ruta Italiana). TD+; V,A1; 1300m, 2-4 days from the camp at 4800m. E. Detonasi, C. Piazzo, D. Sactove & R. Vidone, 1974-07-25.

AAJ 1975; Tomé pp.132#8; Sharman pp.55; World Mountaineering pp.146#8

  • Chopicalqui (6354m)
  • Chopicalqui Norte (6050m)

    Radehose pp.98

    SW side
    SW Ridge (Arista SO). IV AD; 65°; 760m, 5-7h from high camp. Total 2150m. 1-2 days round trip from moraine camp (500m). Col camp at 5600m. H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider, P. Borchens & E. Hein, 1932-08-03.

    Johnson pp.106-7; Frimer pp.40-1; Tomé pp.140#6; Kiendler #B10; Sharman pp.62

    East side
    • Quebrada Ulta, Bus from Huaraz to Chacas, leave off on the fourth switchback (before Punta Olympica tunnel). MOraine camp at 5000m.
    SE Ridge (Arista SE). TD-; 1350/2050m, 4-5 days round trip from Huaraz. M. Clarbrough & G. Wayatt, 1969-06-20.

    Johnson pp.132-3; NZ Alpine Journal 1970; Tomé pp.141#9; Sharman pp.62

    East Face Direct. TD; V, 80°; 950/2050m, 4-5 days round trip from Huaraz.

    Johnson pp.132-3; NZ Alpine Journal 1970

    East Ridge (Arista Este). TD+; 1200m, 3-4 days. Chappaz, R. Desmaison, A. Vagne & M. Arizzi, 1982-08-25.

    AAJ 1983; Tomé pp.142#10; Sharman pp.62

    NW side
    Difficult routes on NW and W faces.
    NW Ridge (Arista NO). TD; 1300m, 2-3 days. A. Cooper, B. Everett, J. Janney & W. Phillips, 1969-07-12.

    AAJ 1969; AAJ 1981; AAJ 1982; Tomé pp.140#1; Sharman pp.61

Contrahierbas is a group pd peaks with one summit rising above 6000m. The group has several subsidiary peaks.

Vast mountain that is very seldomly climbed. Not too technical, but tricky crevasses need to be negotiated. From laguna Artesa (4400m) via NW ridge (PD/AD, 2 days).

Yuraq Janka pp.87

Arista NO
Arista NO. AD; 1000m, 2 days.

Tomé pp.144#1; AAJ 1959

Arista N-NE
Arista N-NE. AD; 1000m, 2 days.

Tomé pp.145#2; Sharman pp.64

Together with nearby Copa, Huancan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering.

Difficult climbs both on NW and NE faces. Supposedly comparable in difficulty to Taulliraju.
Cara NE
Cara NE. TD; 1000m, 2-3 days.

Tomé pp.149#1; AAJ 1962; Sharman pp.65

Cara NO
Cara NO. TD+; 1000m.

Tomé pp.149#2; AAJ 1978; Sharman pp.65

Together with nearby Copa, Huancan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering.

  • Este (6125m)
  • Oeste (6104m)
Este, West side
  • Laguna Cochua
South Ridge from West glacier (Arista Sur). AD; 1100m, 5-7h from high camp. S. Rohrer & K. Schmid, 1939-08.
Camp on west glacier at 5200m.

Kiendler #B13; Tomé pp.151#2; Sharman pp.66

Arista SO
Arista SO. D; 1100m.
Traverse from West summit (Oeste) to main summit.

Tomé pp.151#1; AAJ 1976

One of the easiest 6000m peaks in Cordillera Blanca.

  • Sur (6188m)
  • Norte (6170m)
Sur, West side
West slopes (Rampas del Oeste). PD/AD; 45°; 9-10h. E. Hein & E. Schneider (FA of Copa Sur), 1932-09-26.

Johnson pp.140-1; Kiendler #B14; Tomé pp.152#1; Sharman pp.67

Norte, South Ridge
South Ridge (Arista Sur). PD-. H. Abrons, L. & I. Ortenburger, 1964-06-30.

Tomé pp.152#2; AAJ 1965; Sharman pp.67

West side
Rampas del Oeste. P. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, H. Kinzl & E. Schneider, 1932.

Tomé pp.152#1; Sharman pp.67

Sharman pp.67

  • Paccharaju (5744m)
  • Paccharaju Norte I (5665m)
  • Paccharaju Norte II (5600m)

Sharman pp.68

Sharman pp.68

Summits rising in a bowl-like formation around broad plateau at ca. 5200m. Approach from Quebrada Honda or Vicos via Portachuelo de Honda.

Sharman pp.69-70

South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz.

Chinchey >
    Located to SW of Tocllaraju. Este is one of the most commonly climbed peaks in Cordillera Blanca.

Located to SW of Tocllaraju. Este is one of the most commonly climbed peaks in Cordillera Blanca.
1957-07-18
Urus Este, SE slopes to east ridge,
First ascent		 SE slopes to east ridge: V. Day, E. Henastoza, A: Jamanca, T. McCormack & A. Morales
1994-07-07
Urus Este, Glaciar Sur,
First ascent		 Glaciar Sur: D. Gómez & D. Mascarelli
1998-09-10
Urus Este, Cara Sur,
First ascent		 Cara Sur: N. Campitelli & M. Santoano
East side
SE slopes to east ridge (lado SE y arista NE). III PD-/nccs III 45-50°; 45-50°; 1040m, 5-6h from BC. V. Day, E. Henastoza, A: Jamanca, T. McCormack & A. Morales, 1957-07-18.

Johnson pp.148-9; AAJ 1955; Tomé pp.169#3; Sharman pp.76

NW Ridge
NW Ridge (Arista NO). nccs III 45°/PD-; 700/1130m.

Sharman pp.76

South Face
Cara Sur. TD-; 1 day. N. Campitelli & M. Santoano, 1998-09-10.

Tomé pp.169#1; Sharman pp.76

Glaciar Sur. AD+; 50-60°; 1 day. D. Gómez & D. Mascarelli, 1994-07-07.

Tomé pp.169#2; Sharman pp.76

1974-11-13
Urus Central, Vertiente SE,
First ascent		 Vertiente SE: A. Morales & C. Morales
SE side
Vertiente SE. PD; 1 day. A. Morales & C. Morales, 1974-11-13.

Tomé pp.168#1; Sharman pp.76

1963-08-03
Urus Oeste, Vertiente SE,
First ascent		 Vertiente SE: G. Apotheloz, D. Bach, A. Bezinge, G. de Rham, J Fatton & C. Jaquet
1968-07-04
Urus Oeste, Cara Este,
First ascent		 Cara Este: F. Luchsinger & A. Zimmerli
SE side
Vertiente SE. 1-2h from high camp. G. Apotheloz, D. Bach, A. Bezinge, G. de Rham, J Fatton & C. Jaquet, 1963-08-03.

Tomé pp.168#1; Sharman pp.76

East Face
Cara Este. PD+; 1 day (1-2h from high camp). F. Luchsinger & A. Zimmerli, 1968-07-04.

Tomé pp.168#2

Located at the end of Ishinca valley in the central Cordillera Blanca. Fairly popular ice fluted pyramid most commonly accessed from Quebrada Ishinca (high camp at 5200m).

1939-07-31
Tocllaraju, NW Ridge,
First ascent		 NW Ridge: Brecht & Schweizer
1963
Tocllaraju, NE Ridge,
First ascent		 NE Ridge: Daniel Bach, Albert Bezinge, Jean-Jacques Fatton & Carlo Jaquet
1980-05
Tocllaraju, WSW Face,
First ascent		 WSW Face: A. Fisher, B. White, R. Blatherwick & H. Colonia
1980-07-15
Tocllaraju, West Face Direct,
First ascent		 West Face Direct: G. Calcagno, M. Carara, G. Lafranconi & C. Zappelli

Radehose pp.106

West side
NW Ridge (Arista NO). Snow/ice, III AD+/D/nccs III 50-55°; 50-55° (100m, rimaye wall 60-70°)°; 1032m, 5-7h. 2 days round trip from BC. Brecht & Schweizer, 1939-07-31.
Normal route. Classic snow climb from Ishinca BC, high camp at 5200m.

Johnson pp.150-1; Tomé pp.170#2; Kiendler #B15; Sharman pp.77

WSW Face (Cara Oeste, Arista Sur). D-; 65°; 500m, 6h. A. Fisher, B. White, R. Blatherwick & H. Colonia, 1980-05.
Comparable in difficulty to Ferrari route on Alpamayo but not plaqued by the crowds. Climbed from Ishinca Camp, high camp at 5200m.

Tomé pp.171#4; AAJ 1981; Kiendler #B15

West Face Direct (Cara Oeste directa). IV D+; AI3/70°; 600m/1100m. G. Calcagno, M. Carara, G. Lafranconi & C. Zappelli, 1980-07-15.
Normally steep ice climbing through a serac barrier. Climbed from Ishinca Camp (5200m).

Johnson pp.152-3; Tomé pp.170#3; AAJ 1982; Sharman pp.77

NE Ridge (Arista Norte)
NE Ridge. D; 70°. Daniel Bach, Albert Bezinge, Jean-Jacques Fatton & Carlo Jaquet, 1963.
From Quebrada Ishinca (5200m) traverse under W(SW) face to gain the ridge. Summit mushroom is steep (70°).

Tomé pp.170#1?; AAJ 1960

Chinchey >

Several long ridges.

  • Palcaraju Centro (6274m) (Google maps).
  • Palcaraju Este (6180m)
  • Palcaraju Oeste (6110m)
  • Palcaraju Sur (5900m)
1939-06-07
Palcaraju, North Face & NE Ridge,
First ascent		 North Face & NE Ridge: W. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer
1964-07-10
Palcaraju, Cara NO,
First ascent		 Cara NO: H. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost, H. Hultgren, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, J. Ortenburg & L. Ortenburg
1965-08-03
Palcaraju, West Ridge,
First ascent		 West Ridge: K. Baker, G. Holdwoth, L. Irwin & J. Ricker
1980-07-17
Palcaraju, South face,
First ascent		 South face: Y-C. Sonnenwil, P. Morand & E. Loretan
1996-07-08
Palcaraju, Un rayo de Sol,
First ascent		 Un rayo de Sol: P.P. Gonzáles & J.M. Polanco
Centro, SW side
  • Quebrada Cojup, High camp on the rand of the glacier (5000m). via Quebrada Cojup and laguna Palcacocha (4500m) (17h)
  • Quendara Honda, High camp on the rand of the glacier (5000m).
West Ridge (Cara SO). D. K. Baker, G. Holdwoth, L. Irwin & J. Ricker, 1965-08-03.

Tomé pp.173#3; AAJ 1966; Kiendler #B16; Sharman pp.78

South face (Cara Sur & Arista SE). TD+. Y-C. Sonnenwil, P. Morand & E. Loretan, 1980-07-17.
Access from Quebrada Cojup

Tomé pp.174#5; AAJ 1982

Centro, north side
Cara NO. D+. H. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost, H. Hultgren, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, J. Ortenburg & L. Ortenburg, 1964-07-10.

Tomé pp.173#1; AAJ 1965; Sharman pp.78

North Face & NE Ridge (Cara Norte & Arista NE). D. W. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-06-07.

Tomé pp.173#2; Sharman pp.77

Sur, Cara Sur

Highest peak of the extensive Chinchey massif. Despite its status as the highest peak of the group, it is not nearly as popular climbs Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca.

  • Chinchey (6222m)
  • Puntancueno (Chinchey Este) (6000m)
  • Pamparaju (Chinchey Norte I) (5987m)
  • Ayucaraju (Chinchey Norte II) (5647m)
  • Utsuraju (Chinchey Norte III) (5500m)
1939-08-02
Chinchey, West Face to North ridge,
First ascent		 West Face to North ridge: W. Brecht & H. Schweizer
West side
West Face to North ridge (Arista Norte). PD+/AD-; 55°; 3-4 day roundtrip from meadow camp. W. Brecht & H. Schweizer, 1939-08-02.
High camp in Chinchey-Pucaranra col (5550m).

Johnson pp.184-5; Tomé pp.181#1; Kiendler #B17; Sharman pp.71

  • Tullparaju (5787m)
  • Tullparaju Sur (Gallohuaganan) (5456m)

Sharman pp.72

1948-07-05
Huapi, Pendientes E & Arete Oeste,
First ascent		 Pendientes E & Arete Oeste: A Szepessy & M. Soni
West side
Lado NO. F; 1 day.

Tomé pp.179#1

Arista NO. F; 1 day.

Tomé pp.179#2

Pendientes SO. F; 1 day.

Tomé pp.179#3; AAJ 1965

SW side
Pendientes E & Arete Oeste (SW Ridge). F; 1 day. A Szepessy & M. Soni, 1948-07-05.

Tomé pp.179#4

NE Face. F; 1 day.
SW Face. D; 1 day.

Bulky mountain at the head of Quebrada Cojup.
1948-07-05
Pucaranra, SE Ridge,
First ascent		 SE Ridge: L. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist
1957-07-23
Pucaranra, SE Face,
First ascent		 SE Face:
1965-08-17
Pucaranra, SW Ridge,
First ascent		 SW Ridge:
1975-07-04
Pucaranra, Wrst Face,
First ascent		 Wrst Face: M. Cohen & T. Parlane
1977-06-19
Pucaranra, NW Ridge,
First ascent		 NW Ridge: Nicolas Jaeger
SE side
SE Ridge (Arista SE). AD+; 50°; 10h from the high camp. L. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist, 1948-07-05.

Tomé pp.176#3; Kiendler #B19; Sharman pp.78

SE Face (Cara SE). AD+; 50-55°; 2 days.

Tomé pp.177#4; Sharman pp.78

West side
NW Ridge. TD; 70°. Nicolas Jaeger, 1977-06-19.

Tomé pp.176#1; AAJ 1978; Sharman pp.78

Wrst Face (Cara Oeste). 70°. M. Cohen & T. Parlane, 1975-07-04.

Tomé pp.176#2; AAJ 1976

SW Ridge (Arista SO).

Tomé pp.176#6; AAJ 1966

Difficult peak with no easy routes to the summit. West face has several steep routes.
1960
Cayesh, South Ridge,
First ascent		 South Ridge: Crawford, Ryan & Stewart
1988-07-04
Cayesh, German route,
First ascent		 German route: M. Roeper & J. Steinsberger
West face (Cara Oeste)
Several routes, all of them difficult (TD+ or more), approximately 650m in height and tend to be serious.
South Ridge (New Zealand route, Ruta Neozelandesa). TD+/ED. Crawford, Ryan & Stewart, 1960.

Tomé pp.187#7; AAJ 1961; Sharman pp.73

German route (Ruta Alemana). TD+; VI-, 70°; 700m, 2 day roundtrip from glacier camp. M. Roeper & J. Steinsberger, 1988-07-04.
Most climbed route on the face.

Johnson pp.186-187; AAJ 1989; Tomé pp.186#6; Sharman pp.73

Popular acclimatization peak.
1960-07-16
Maparaju, SW and W slopes,
First ascent		 SW and W slopes: J. de Paz & L. Stewart
West side
SW and W slopes (Arista SO). III F; 45°; 1000m. J. de Paz & L. Stewart, 1960-07-16.

Johnson pp.188-9; NZ Alpine Journal 1961; Tomé pp.189#1; Sharman pp.75

Chinchey >

Ranrapalca - Ochsapalca group

Popular acclimatization peak. Located in a nest between Palcaraju and Ranrapalca. There are only few routes (Tome guidebook lists three), all of them non-technical (F-PD).
1954-05-12
Ishinca, SW Ridge,
First ascent		 SW Ridge: B. Baltazar, C. Fernandez, C. Morales, M. Romero & F. Suazo
1964
Ishinca, NW Slopes,
First ascent		 NW Slopes: J. Fonrouge, W. Lindaver, M. Salger, H. Schmidbauer & V. Staudacher
NW side
NW Slopes (Pendientes del NO). PD-/nccs III 45°; 700/1130m, 5-6h. J. Fonrouge, W. Lindaver, M. Salger, H. Schmidbauer & V. Staudacher, 1964.
Normal route. From Ishinca BC via laguna Ishinca.

Johnson pp.156-7; Tomé pp.193#3; Kiendler #B18; Sharman pp.81; AAJ 1965

SW side
SW Ridge (Ruta SO). Mixed/snow, PD-; 60°; 1130m, 6-8h. B. Baltazar, C. Fernandez, C. Morales, M. Romero & F. Suazo, 1954-05-12.
Normal route. From Ishinca BC via laguna Ishinca (camp). Possible high camp in Ishinca-Ranrapalca col (5400m).

Johnson pp.158-9; Tomé pp.192#1; Kiendler #B18; Sharman pp.81

One of the big peaks of Cordillera Blanca. All routes are reportedly worthwhile. Relatively often climbed considering that there are now non-technical routes (easiest route is NE face at D).

  • Ranrapalca (6162m) (Google maps).
  • Ranrapalca SO (6001m)
1939-06-25
Ranrapalca, NE Ridge,
First ascent		 NE Ridge: W. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer
194-07-30
Ranrapalca, North Spur,
First ascent		 North Spur:
1958-07-23
Ranrapalca, NE Face,
First ascent		 NE Face: G. Dionini, P. Fornelli, L Ghico & G. Marchese
1971-07-07
Ranrapalca, SW Ridge,
First ascent		 SW Ridge: T. Aas, B. Hammeraas, E. Boehlme, K. Bjerge, M. Ekilsen, V. Geir-Hansen & P. Gren
1975-08-22
Ranrapalca, North Face,
First ascent		 North Face: M. Johns, C. Slaymaker, M. Rourke
1977-06-13
Ranrapalca, South Face,
First ascent		 South Face: Nicolas Jaeger
1977-06-18
Ranrapalca, East Ridge,
First ascent		 East Ridge: R. Ghillini, B. Prud'homme & J. Bouchard
1980-06-22
Ranrapalca, West Ridge,
First ascent		 West Ridge: Y-C. Sonnerwyl, P. Maron & E. Loretan
NE Face
  • Ishinca-Ranrapalca col, Ishinca-Ranrapalca col (5350m) is reached in 2 days either from quebrada Ishinca (in North) via laguna Ishinca or from quebrada Cojup (in south).
NE Face (Pendientes NE). Mixed, D; 55°, IV/5.5; 862m, 5-7h from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. G. Dionini, P. Fornelli, L Ghico & G. Marchese, 1958-07-23.
Normal route. Easiest route and likely the best descend.

Johnson pp.160-1; Biggar 2005 pp82-83; Tomé pp.195#3; Kiendler #B20; Sharman pp.82#4

NE Ridge (Arista NE). Mixed, D/TD; 8h. W. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-06-25.

Biggar 2005 pp82-83; Tomé pp.195#4; Kiendler #B20; Sharman pp.82#3

North Face (Cara Norte)
  • Ishinca BC, Glacier camp below the face (5260m, 3-4h from Laguna Ishinca)
North Spur. TD.
Prominent rocky spur between NE and North faces.

Tomé pp.196#6; Sharman pp.82#2; AAJ 1995

North Face (Cara Norte). Mixed, D+; 55-60°, III; 900m, 8-10h from the camp below the face. M. Johns, C. Slaymaker, M. Rourke, 1975-08-22.
Looks much more difficult than it really is. Long face with lots of moderately steep snow & ice with short rock band at the top (10m of UIAA III).

Johnson pp.162-3; AAJ 1976; Tomé pp.195#5; Sharman pp.82#1

SE side
East Ridge (SE Ridge, Arista Este). TD+; 65-70°; 800m, 2 days. R. Ghillini, B. Prud'homme & J. Bouchard, 1977-06-18.

AAJ 1978; Tomé pp.194#2; Sharman pp.82#5

South Face (Cara Sur). TD; 750m. Nicolas Jaeger, 1977-06-13.

AAJ 1978; Tomé pp.194#1; Sharman pp.82#6

SW side
SW Ridge (Arista SO). TD; 2 days. T. Aas, B. Hammeraas, E. Boehlme, K. Bjerge, M. Ekilsen, V. Geir-Hansen & P. Gren, 1971-07-07.
Beautiful snow ridge easily visible from Huaraz. The ridge is gained at 5350m via SW face, then followed via SW summit (6001m) to main summit.

AAJ 1972; Tomé pp.198#13; Sharman pp.83#1

SW Face. ED; 1000m.

Tomé pp.198#11, 1988#12; Sharman pp.83#2

West Ridge
West Ridge. 2 days. Y-C. Sonnerwyl, P. Maron & E. Loretan, 1980-06-22.

Tomé pp.198#10; Sharman pp.83#3

Fantastic steep climbing on the several lines on the south face.
1965-07-10
Ochsapalca, North Ridge,
First ascent		 North Ridge: A. Miyashita & T. Sato
1979-08-09
Ochsapalca, American Direct,
First ascent		 American Direct: M. Richey & R. Blatherwick
1982-06-12
Ochsapalca, Swiss-Canadian,
First ascent		 Swiss-Canadian: V. Baderet, J. Oullet & B. Balmat
North Ridge (Arista N)
North Ridge (Arista N). D+; 700m, 5h from the high camp. A. Miyashita & T. Sato, 1965-07-10.
Normal route. Gain the ridge at 5100m. Camp at 5500m.

AAJ 1966; Tomé pp.200#1; Sharman pp.83

South face (Cara Sur)
Several modern steep ice routes between TD and ED+ and 500-650m. Many climbers abseil down after reaching the summit ridge instead of traversing the difficult ridge to main summit.
Swiss-Canadian (Suizo-Canadiense). Ice, TD; 600m. V. Baderet, J. Oullet & B. Balmat, 1982-06-12.
The easiest route on the face

AAJ 1983; Tomé pp.200#6

American Direct (Americana). Ice, ED; 650m, 8-10h. M. Richey & R. Blatherwick, 1979-08-09.

Johnson pp.172-3; AAJ 1981; Tomé pp.201#8; Sharman pp.83

One of the most prominent looking mountains seen from Huaraz. Good acclimatization climb.
1971-07-09
Vallunaraju, North ridge,
First ascent		 North ridge: L. Ryan & R. Ryan
North side
  • Quebrada Llaca, Road end in Quebrada Llaca at 4400m. From laguna Llaca via moraine camp at 5130m.
North ridge (Arista Norte). II AD-; 550m, 2-3 day round trip from Huaraz. L. Ryan & R. Ryan, 1971-07-09.

Johnson pp.170-1; AAJ 1972; Tomé pp.204#1; Sharman pp.85

Located 20km to the east of Huaraz
1954-08-08
Churup, Pendientes & Cara NO, Arista NE,
First ascent		 Pendientes & Cara NO, Arista NE: A. Canaval, A. Mirro-Quesada, A. Morales, C. Morales, A. Palacios & R. Thomas
1962-07-18
Churup, Cara Sur,
First ascent		 Cara Sur: M. Inokuchi & H. Yoshikawa
1972-08-15
Churup, ,
First ascent		 : R. Fear, W. Lohr, M. Malotaux & Y. Ridgeway
1983-08-03
Churup, Princesa Malinche,
First ascent		 Princesa Malinche: J.A. Palacios & J.M. Lorenzo
Oeste, SW side
A face located immediately above laguna Churup. Several mixed routes of around 450m and between grades D+ - ED.
  • Laguna Churup, 2h hike from Pitec (3800m) to laguna Churup. BC at 4600m.

Sharman pp.80

Mixed, 75-80°, IV+; 450m. R. Fear, W. Lohr, M. Malotaux & Y. Ridgeway, 1972-08-15.
The easiest route on the face

AAJ 1973; Tomé pp.207#6

Princesa Malinche (SW Face, Cara SO). Mixed, IV D+; AI3+/85°, V+, one pitch, mixed; 450m, 6-8h. J.A. Palacios & J.M. Lorenzo, 1983-08-03.
Mixed climb.

Johnson pp.182-3; AAJ 1983; Tomé pp.207#5

Oeste, Cara Sur
Cara Sur. D-; V; 300m. M. Inokuchi & H. Yoshikawa, 1962-07-18.

Tomé pp.207#7; Sharman pp.80

Oeste, North side
Pendientes & Cara NO, Arista NE. D-; 1200m. A. Canaval, A. Mirro-Quesada, A. Morales, C. Morales, A. Palacios & R. Thomas, 1954-08-08.

Tomé pp.207#8; AAJ 1955; Sharman pp.80

Huantsan group is located very close to Huaraz, slightly to the SE. It lies to the south Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cayesh. Although the highest peak of the group Huantsan (6369m), is located close to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju. Maparaju (5326m) and San Juan (5843m), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents.

  • San Juan (5843m)
  • San Juan Sur (Tumarinaraju) (5670m)
north side
NW Ridge (Arista NO). AD+; 900/1600m, 2 day roundtrip from the valley. M. Emslie, D. Fabian, M. Simpson & W. Wallace, 1958-08-14.

Johnson pp.190-1; AAJ 1959; Tomé pp.216#2; Sharman pp.89

  • Huamashraju (5434m)
  • Huamashraju Este (5250m)

Located in Cordillera Blanca, the summit lies just 21 km east of downtown Huaraz. Despite its close proximity to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is largely due to its difficulty, it is the second most difficult 6000mpeak in the Cordillera Blanca (after Chacraraju). All climbs are long, committing and difficult. First ascent by Lionel Terray, de Booy & Egeler in 1952 via North North West Ridge.

  • Huantsan (6369m)
  • Huantsan Norte (6133m)
  • Huantsan Oeste (6270m)
  • Huantsan Sur (5913m)
Huantsan, North side
  • Laguna Shallap, Access commonly from Quebrada Shallap. Also possible from Quebrada Rajucolta
NNW Ridge. D+/TD-; 1000m, 2 days round trip from camp at 5500m (from Quebrada Shallap). Lionel Terray, de Booy & Egeler, 1952-07-07.
Normal route. Via foresummit of Huantsan Norte to Huantsan Norte (550m) and along NNW ridge to the summit.

Johnson pp.194-5; AAJ 1959; Tomé pp.220#1; Kiendler #B21; Sharman pp.90

West Face (Cara Oeste). TD/ED; 1200m, 3+ days. B. Young, K. Messer & M. Lehner, 1979-08-02.

AAJ 1980; Tomé pp.223#3

Huantsan >

Sharman pp.92-3

Sharman pp.92-3

Sharman pp.92-3

Sharman pp.92-3

Sharman pp.92-3

South side
  • Olleros (35090m) to Pumahuacanca
South Ridge. AD; 45°; 4h. J. Packa, D. Ciochetti, D. Lanmade, C. Slaymaker & M. Rourke, 1975-07-27.
Normal route. Camp in a col below South Ridge (5250m).

AAJ 1976; Tomé pp.230#3; Sharman pp.93

West Ridge (Arista Oeste)
West Ridge (Arista Oeste). PD. D. Giuobbi & C. Mauri, 1966-06-17.

AAJ 1967; Tomé pp.230#2; Sharman pp.93

Sharman pp.94

Huantsan >

Sharman pp.95

Sharman pp.94-5

Little known and rarely climbed peak.
West face
  • From Oleros to Huaripampa.
West Flank & South Ridge (West face). AD; 500m, 5-7h from glacier camp. D. Sharman, 1991-08-14.
Normal route. Moraine camp at 4900m (5h) and glacier camp at 5200 (2-3h), below sharp south ridge of P. 5697. From the camp across the glacier to NW ridge. Finish with 150m headwall (60°).

Johnson pp.198-9; AAJ 1992; AAJ 1989; Tomé pp.237#2; Sharman pp.95

Huantsan >

Group of lower peaks located to the north of Olleros-Chavin road. Routes are generally easy. Best approach is from laguna Querococha beside the road.

  • Norte (5262m)
  • Sur (5220m)
Huantsan >

Cluster of peaks to the south of Olleros-Chavin road. Routes are generally easy and doable within a day from the valley. Usual approach is from Cutec.

  • Norte I (Jatunllacsha I) (5680m)
  • Sur I (5711m)
  • Sur III (Ichic Pongas) (5580m)

Furthest to the south lie Raria (Raria Norte (5576m), Raria Sur (5507m)) and Caullaraju groups (Huicsa (5476m), Tuco (5463m), Pastoruri (5240m), Caullaraju Este (5682m)). Both of these massifs offer a number of easy lower objectives around 5500m and would make a good acclimatisation area. The area is accessed from Huaraz via Pachacato up the Rio Punapampa road towards Pastorunil. During the summer there are many buses.

Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Group of lower peaks. Frequent tourist bus service to Pastoruri makes access easy.

  • Norte (5590m)
  • Este I (5460m)
Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Approach from Pastoruri along the road from Lima to Huaraz. Routes are generally easy and doable in a day.

  • Este (5686m)
  • Central (5636m)
  • Norte (5420m)
  • Oeste I (5582m)
  • Oeste II (5603m)
  • Oeste III (5500m)
  • Oeste IV (5460m)
  • Huisco (5487m)
  • Sur (55437636m)
  • Rajutuna (5360m)
  • Norte (5349m)
[Champará | Milluacocha | Santa Cruz | Huandoy Group | Huascaran | Conrahierbas | Copa | Perlilla | Chinchey | Huantsan | Southern Cordillera Blanca]
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