Latest update: 2010-03-11 23:37:36
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Cordillera Blanca

Taulliraju. Taulliraju mountain in Huascarán National Park in Peru

Taulliraju mountain in Huascarán National Park in Peru. Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Taulliraju.JPG, (c) Florian Ederer , licensed under Wikimedia Commons. Shot on 2009-08-31 in Caraz, Peru (Google maps).

General information

The Cordillera Blanca ("White Range") lies just 100km east of the Pacific Ocean. It is some 180 km long narrow chain of mountains running from north to south. It offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. The Cordillera Blanca contains more than 300 major summits, more than 31 of these rise over 6000 meters and further 30 are higher than 5700m. The highest peak, Huascaran offers fine climbing although it is one of the easiest 6000m peaks in the range.

Champará

Isolated massif located to the north of Sanata Cruz. Very seldom visited.

Milluacocha
Santa Cruz

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. Here lies picturesque Alpamayo (5947m) that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world. Together with neighboring Quitaraju (6036m) Alpamayo is the most popular climb in northern Cordillera Blanca. Other famous mountains include the namesake of the group, Santa Cruz Grande (6241m) and Taulliraju (5830m), located at the end of the Santa Cruz Valley.

Huandoy Group

Huandoy group is located between Santa Cruz Valley in the north and Quebrada Llanganuco in the south. The highest peak of the area is Huandoy (6395m). However, the most popular climb of the area are Pisco and the beautiful pyramid Artesonraju (6025). Other important peaks for the climbers include Chacraraju, la Esfinge and Piramid de Carcilaso.

Huascaran

South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m.

Conrahierbas

Contrahierbas is a group pd peaks with one summit rising above 6000m. The group has several subsidiary peaks.

Copa

Together with nearby Copa, Huancan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering.

Perlilla

Summits rising in a bowl-like formation around broad plateau at ca. 5200m. Approach from Quebrada Honda or Vicos via Portachuelo de Honda.

Chinchey

South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz.

Huantsan

Huantsan group is located very close to Huaraz, slightly to the SE. It lies to the south Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cayesh. Although the highest peak of the group Huantsan (6369m), is located close to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju. Maparaju (5326m) and San Juan (5843m), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents.

Southern Cordillera Blanca

Furthest to the south lie Raria (Raria Norte (5576m), Raria Sur (5507m)) and Caullaraju groups (Huicsa (5476m), Tuco (5463m), Pastoruri (5240m), Caullaraju Este (5682m)). Both of these massifs offer a number of easy lower objectives around 5500m and would make a good acclimatisation area. The area is accessed from Huaraz via Pachacato up the Rio Punapampa road towards Pastorunil. During the summer there are many buses.

General information >

Logistics

Nearest major airport is Lima, from where it is 8h bus trip to Huaraz (3091m), located in a valley Callejón de Muaylos, is the mecca of Andinism.

Most base camps in the Cordillera Blanca can be reached in a day from Huaraz. For climbs in the northern Cordillera Blanca, Yungay (2550m) or Caraz further north in the valley (2250m, 2h from Huaraz by bus) may be more practical bases (both accessible from Huaraz by bus). Generally colectivos (minibuses) are the best (and cheapest) means of transportation in the valley, as there are so many of them. Bus service is not as frequent and it is more expensive.

Climbing info

Climbing info >

Most of the climbing is on the snow or ice, on steep faces and sharp ridges that often build extensive cornices. North faces tend to have good snow and ice, at least until noon while south face often have unconsolidated powder. South American snow sticks to steeper slopes than in European Alps. Ridges are often beautiful with impressive double cornices. However because of this, they are very difficult and unjustifiably dangerous. Rock quality is generally poor.

Popular climbs include:

Climbing info >

Climbing season lasts from May to Semptember with June and July typically considered best months for climbing. The area has typically heavy rains from December to March and a markedly dry season from May to October. During this period the weather cycle is very stable with several days of good weather followed by one or two of bad. Within this period, sunny days may have temperatures of 25°C. There will normally be overnight frost anywhere above around 4500m. Snow line is around 5000m.

Climbing info >

To organize cooks, porters, arrieros and burros (muleteers and mules) or guides, Casa de Guias in Huaraz is a good starting point. Arrieros and burros can also be organized in some of the more popular starting points (Cashapampa). Generally mules are used to transport gear to the base camp, porters being used mainly only if mules cannot be used. In more popular areas arrieros have arranged sort of a union so that they have fixed prices and amount of days.

Expect to pay:

  • $25/day for a cook (2002)
  • $10/day per arriero (2001)
  • $5/day per mule (2001)
  • $25/day for a porter (2002)

Note that the customers needs to provide porters, cook and arrieros with food and shelter.

Several companies organize climbs and treks in Cordillera Blanca.

Climbing info >

Most commonly used grading system is French adjectival system (IFAS). However, due to popularity of the area among Americans NCCS system is also sometimes used. Ice pitches are most commonly graded with steepness, however very steep routes are often graded with Wi grade or sometimes Scottish grade. Rock pithes are most often graded with uiaa rock grade, accompanied with standard aid climbing grade whenever applicable.

Climbing info >

There are few huts:

  • Hut Peru (4765m, Pisco Moraine camp)
  • Hut Ishinca (4350, Ishinca BC)
  • Hut Huascaran (4675m, Huascaran moraine camp)
  • Shelter Giordano Longoni (5000m, Ranrapalca)
  • Caretakers hut (4200, west end of laguna Paron (road end))

Further several commonly used base camp sites.

Climbing info >

Most up to date complete guide to the area is "Escaladas en los Andes - Guia De La Cordillera Blanca" available only in Spanish. "Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca Peru" is excellent guide to selected routes. All other guidebooks I've come across are outdated and/or out of print.

  • Beaud, Phillipe: Peruvian Andes - Cordillera Blanca. Cloudcap, 1988. Isbn: 9780938567066.
  • Biggar, John: The Andes, 2nd edition. Andes, 1999. Isbn: 9780953608706.
  • Biggar, John: The Andes - A Guide for Climbers, 3Rev Ed edition. Andes, 2005. Isbn: 9780953608727.
  • Bohórquez, Antonio Gómez & Ñacle, Juan Jose Tomé: La Cordillera Blanca de los Andes. Ed Desnivel, 1998. Isbn: 978-84-87746-99-4.
  • Frimer, Jeremy: Climbs & treks in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Elaho, 2005. Isbn: 0973303557.
  • Harper, Kate; Pitkethly, Val & Saunders, Victor: Trekking and Climbing in the Andes (Globetrotter Adventure Guide). New Holland Publishers Ltd, 2002. Isbn: 9781859743911.
  • Johnson, Brad: Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca Peru. Western Reflections Publishing Company, 2003. Isbn: 9781890437909.
  • Kiendler, Hermann: Bergführer Anden: Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo - Bergführer Anden: Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo - Bergführer Anden: Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo - alle 6000er auf einen Blick, 1st edition. Panico Alpinverlag, 2007. Isbn: 9783936740363.
  • Neate, Jill: Mountaineering in the Andes. Hyperion Books, 1993. Isbn: 9780907649649.
  • Radehose, Eckehard: Traumberge Amerikas. Von Alaska bis Feuerland.. Bergverlag Rother, 2002. Isbn: 9783763330065.
  • Ricker, John F.: Yuraq Janka - Guide to the Peruvian Andes - Cordilleras Blanca & Rosko, Pap/Map edition. American Alpine Club, 1977. Isbn: 9780930410056.
  • Sharman, David: Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Whizzo Climbs, 1995. Isbn: 9780952358206.
  • Ñacle, Juan José Tomé: Escaladas en los Andes - Guia De La Cordillera Blanca. Ediciones Desnivel, 1999. Isbn: 9788489969438.
  • (Cordillera Blanca Nord, Pérou). DAV.
  • 0/3a (Cordillera Blanca Nord, Pérou), 1:100.000. DAV, 2002. Isbn: 9783928777575.
  • 0/3b (Cordillera Blanca Sud), 1:100.000. DAV, 2002. Isbn: 9783937530055.
  • overview map
  • Maps of Cordillera Blanca
  • PIGM: 18-h (Carango).
  • PIGM: 19-h (Carhuas).

Valleys

Valleys >

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. The area features Santa Cruz massif and northern parts of Huandoy group. Most visited area is Santa Cruz valley which is also popular among trekkers. Most popular climbs are Alpamayo, Quitaraju and Artesonraju, although the latter is far more popular from Paron valley.

Access is by car from Huaraz via Yungay and Caraz (2250m, 1,5-2h) in the main valley. From Caraz further to the north to the village of Cashapampa (2900m, 2 hours by bus from Caraz). Cashapampa is very commonly used as the entrance into the Santa Cruz and Alpamayo treks.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Alpamayo >

Laguna Yuraccocha (4600m) 32km trek from Cashapampa to Yuraccocha via Hualcayan (3200m) and quebrada Ragraneo, 3 days up, 2 days down.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Alpamayo >

Shorter valley to the south Quebrada de los Cedros and Quebrada Alpamayo containing laguna Cullicocha (Kullicocha BC) and laguna Rajucocha. Access the same as for Quebrada Alpamayo.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Alpamayo >

Located in the lower Quebrada Alpamayo, on the way to laguna Jankarurish.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Alpamayo >

High mountain pass (4830m), located to the north of laguna Jancarurish in the upper Quebrada Alpamayo. Can be used to access Quebrada Pilanco (laguna Pilanco BC) and Quebrada Tayapampa via Mesapata pass (4460m).

  • Pilanco Sur, NE Ridge ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Alpamayo >

Located to the north of Quebrada Alpamayo. Access through Quebrada Alpamayo and Cara-Cara Pass (4830m).

  • Pilanco Central, North Ridge ()
  • Pilanco Norte, South Ridge ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Alpamayo >

Laguna Jancarurish (4300m) is the main base camp in Quebrada Alpamayo. Access from Cashapampa is a three-day hike. It possible to access Alpamayo col camp (5300m) from here, but the access is more popular through Santa Cruz valley.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca >

Access either from Pomapampa located to the East of massif either via Quebrada Jancapampa or Quebrada Janacollpa. Access is also possible from Quebrada Alpamayo via Cara-Cara and Mesapata passes to Quebrada Tayapampa (laguna Pucacocha and laguna Safina).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > East side >

Main valley located to the east of northern Cordillera Blanca.

  • Pucajirca Central, NE Face ()
  • Pucajirca Sur, South Ridge ()
  • Taulliraju (5830m), North Ridge ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > East side >

Accessed from Pomapampa through Quebrada Jancapampa. Laguna Sactaycocha (4056m) is likely the most popular camp site.

  • Pucajirca Norte III, SE Ridge ()
  • Pucajirca Norte II, NW Ridge ()
  • Pucajirca Norte I, North Ridge ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > East side >

Quebrada Taypampa can be accessed either from Popapampa in the east through Quebrada Jancapampa and Quebrada Yanajanca or from Cashapampa through Quebrada de los Cedros, and Quebrada Alpamayo via Cara Cara pass (4830m) and Mesapata (4460m).

The upper part of the valley is divided in two smaller valleys, in which lagunas Safina and Pucacocha are located.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > East side > Quebrada Tayapampa >

Located to the east of laguna Pucacocha

  • Pucajirca Norte III, NW Face ()
  • Pucajirca Norte II ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > East side > Quebrada Tayapampa >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca >

Santa Cruz valley lies between Santa Cruz massif in the north and Huandoy group in the south. The valley is popular both among climbers and trekkers. Apart from Quebrada Paccharuri, the other climbs commonly climbed are all accessed from Cashapampa (2900m) through Santa Cruz valley via laguna Jatuncoccha.

Most popular climb of the area is picturesque Alpamayo. It is often referred to as the most beautiful mountain in the world and it is correspondingly popular.

Very beautiful Taulliraju is located at the end of the Santa Cruz valley rising above the Inca pass of Punta Union (4750m). Although it is located very close to a popular trekking route is seldom climbed due to its difficulty (all SW routes TD or more, north side is possibly easier but seldom visited). Punta Union pass provides access from Santa Cruz valley to Quebrada Huaripampa.

Some climbs in the northern part of Huandoy group can also be reached from Santa Cruz Valley (Artesonraju north side, Caraz).

Llamacorral (3700m) - laguna Ichiccocha (3800m) - laguna Jatuncocha (3900m) - Quishuar (400m) - Taullipampa (4100m) - Punta Uniopn Pass (4750m).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

Located to NE of Cashapampa, between Quebrada Yuraccocha and Paccharuri.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

Quebrada Paccharuri is side valley of Quebrada Santa Cruz. It provides the shortest approach to Santa Cruz Grande (south face). Base camp is customarily at 4000m (5-6h from Cashapampa).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

  • Aguja Norte, North Face ()
  • Aguja Norte, South Face ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

Large lake located in the central part of Quebrada Santa Cruz along the very popular trekking route.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

Small lake to the north of main Santa Cruz valley, due north from laguna Jatuncocha.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

Alpamayo/Quitarajo Base Camp is located near Laguna Arhueycocha (4300m, 1,5 days trek from Cashapampa. Except for the last two hours the route is equal to the popular Santa Cruz - Llanganuco - Trek (from Quishrua).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

Glacier camp in the col between Quitaraju and Alpamayo (5300m). Most commonly accessed from Laguna Arhueycocha in Quebarada Santa Cruz. Alternarive access from laguna Jancarurish (Quebrada Alpamayo).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

BC Santa Cruz (4200m). Located in a southern side valley of Quebrada Santa Cruz, more or less opposite of laguna Arhueycocha.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

Located along the Santa Cruz trekking route, in the upper part of the valley, not far away from Punta Union Pass.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Santa Cruz >

BC at 4300, not too far away from Punta Union Pass. A bit aside of the Santa Cruz trek, access from Taullipampa.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca >

Quebrada Huaripampa can be accessed from Quebrada Santa Cruz through Punta Union Pass. Alternative access would be from Yanama located to the east of Cordillera Blanca (access from Huaraz by buss through Llanganuco valley).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Huaripampa >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Huaripampa >

Along the road, very close to Portachuelo de Llanganuco (4767m). Access from Huaraz by buss.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Huaripampa >

Located in Quebrada Ranincuray, a small side valley of Quebrada Huaripampa.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Huaripampa >

Side valley of Quebrada Huaripampaa, located to the East of Piramide de Garcilaso and north of Chacraraju. Access either from Santa Cruz valley via Punta Union Pass or from Yanamay in the east (access from Huaraz by buss through Llanganuco valley).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca >

Paron valley is surrounded a horseshoe of high peaks (starting from NW): La Esfinge (5327m), Putaca (5585m), Aguja I (5840m), Aguha II (5888m), Aguja III (5775m), Caraz I (6025m), Caraz II (6020m), Caraz III (5720m), Artesonraju (6025m), Paron Grande (Paria, 5600m), Piramide de Garcilaso (5885m), Chacraraju Oeste (6112m), Pisco (5752m), Huandoiy Este (6000m) Huandoy Norte (6395m) and Huandoy Oeste (6356m).

The valley is accessed by car from Caraz to west end of Lago Paron (Caretakers hut, 4185m, 33km, 1,5h from Caraz). There are two base camps in the valley, Esfinge BC and Paron BC.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Paron valley >

Esfinge Base camp is located at 4700m, to the NW of road end. It is used to climb La Esfinge, the best known rock climb in Cordillera Blanca (1985 route is V 5.11 (uiaa VI+,A1 or 5.10 C1-2 or all free at f6c-/7a or 5.11c).

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Paron valley >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Paron valley >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Paron valley >
  • Aguja Chica, North Ridge ()
  • Aguja Chica, South Arete
  • Aguja Sur, SE Arete ()
  • Aguja Sur, SE Ridge ()
  • Aguja Sur, South Face ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Paron valley >

Also known as Paron BC. Very popular climber's camp close to Artesoncocha. Paron BC is three hours hike from Lago Paron to Artesoncocha (Lagos Paron chico, 4300m). Main climbs from the valley are Caraz I (6025m), north side of Huandoy (6395m, much longer than the normal routes from Quebrada Demanda), Piramide de Garcilaso (5885m) and normal route of Artesonraju (6025m). The pyramid shape of the latter may seem familiar, as it is featured in the logo of Paramount Pictures. It is also possible to join normal route of Pisco (5752m) from the valley.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Paron valley >

laguna Chacra?

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Paron valley >

4730m

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca >

Main Quebrada Llanganuco and its side valleys Quebrada Demanda and Quebrada Yuraj located between Huandoy group in the north and Huascaran in the south are surrounded by eight 6000m peaks and few other important peaks: Huandoy Sur (6160m), Oeste (6356m), Norte (6395m) and Este (6000m), Pisco (5752m), Chacraraju Oeste (6112m) and Este (6004m) in the northeast, Yanapaccha (5460m) in the east at the end of the valley and Chopicalqui (6354m) and Huascaran Sur (6769m) and Norte (6664m) in the south. The valley is accessed from Yungay (2550m, access from Huaraz by bus, 1h). From there by car 2km pass Llanganuco lakes to Pisco Base Camp at the entrance of Quebrada Demanda (~3900m).

Pisco (5752m, IV/PD, 45°, 825m. The name means Peruvian liquour) and Yanupacha (5460m; West Face (normal route) PD+, 45-60°. 550m, 5-8h) are easier goals of the valley. Main attraction of the valley is multi-summited Huandoy (6395m), normal routes of which start from a camp at 4600m (hut), 4h from Pisco Base Camp. Another highlight is Chacraraju (6112m), the hardest 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca and whole Andes. It is climbed from a BC at Lagos 69 (4550m).

Some climbs of the Huascaran group (Chopicalqui (6354m) and Huascaran Sur (6769m) and Norte (6664m)) are also climbed from the Llanganuco valley. For those climbs Meadow camp at 4300m (0,5h from the road) in Quebrada Yuraj is used. Normal route of Chopicalqui follows the SW ridge from Llanganuco valley (IV PD+/AD-, 65°, 1550M/2150m). Garganta camp located between summits of Huascaran can be reached from this valley (difficult because of broken glacier). There are several very long and difficult routes on north face of Huascaran Norte.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >

aka Huaypallana

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >

3900m

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >

Along the road running through Llanganuco valley. Not far away from Llanganuco BC.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >

Chopicalqui BC. Abit further from Llnganuco BC in the valley. Short walk from the road. Meadow camp at 4300m, 0,5h from the road (Pot. Llanganuca)

  • Chopicalqui (6354m), SW Ridge (IV AD; 65°)
  • Huascaran Norte, NE Face, Cara NE ()
  • Huascaran Sur, NE Pillar, Pilar NE ()
  • Huascaran Sur, NE Face, Cara NE ()
  • Huascaran Sur, East side, cascade Este ()
  • Huascaran Sur, NE side, NE Ridge ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >

High pass (4767m) along the road connecting Quebrada Llanganuco in the west and Quebrada Huaripampa in the east.

  • Chopicalqui Norte, Cara Norte ()
  • Chopicalqui Norte, Arista NO ()
  • Chopicalqui Norte, Cara NO & Arista NO ()
  • Chopicalqui Norte, Esp. O-NO ()
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), Arista NO (TD)
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), Cara NO ()
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), Esp. O-NO ()
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), Cara Oeste ()
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >

Pisco BC/Refugio Peru. Access from Llanganuco BC.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >

4600m. Access from Llanganuco BC via Quebrada Demanda.

Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >
Valleys > Northern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Llanganuco >
Valleys >
Valleys > Central Cordillera Blanca >

South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. For normal routes the starting point is the village of Musho that is accessed from Huaraz via village of Mancas. Base camp is usually at 4150m. From there a col between the summits is reached (high camp Garganta, 5980m).

Refugio Huascaran (4580m). Aka Musho BC

  • Huascaran Sur, West Face, Garganta
  • Huascaran Sur, West Face, Shield
  • Huascaran Sur, Glacier SO & Arista SE ()
  • Huascaran Norte, NE Face, French Direct
  • Huascaran Norte, south side, South slopes from Garganta
  • Huascaran Sur, Arista SE ()
  • Huascaran Sur, East Face, Cara Este ()
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), var. Arista SO ()
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), Cara Sur ()
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), East side, Arista SE (TD-)
  • Chopicalqui (6354m), East side, Arista Este (TD+)
Valleys > Central Cordillera Blanca >

Ulta valley lies between Huascaran in the north and Chinchey in the south. Quebrada Ulta is located directly to the east of Carhuaz. On the north side of valley lie Huascaran Sur (6768m), Chopicalqui (6354m) and Contrahierbas (6036m). South side has less famous peaks like Ulta (5875m) and Hualcn Este (6125m) and Oeste (6104m). Access to the valley is easy as there's a road along the entire length of the valley. Take a bus from Huaraz to Carhuaz and further towards Chacas on the east side of Cordillera Blanca (3h from Huaraz to Chopicalqui trailhead). When the road to Charcas starts to climb up from the valley, follow the main valley to the Quebrada Artesa (lagos Artesa, 4400m, 0,5 days from the road). From there trek via laguna Yanayacu. Camp at 500m on the glacier edge. The valley is mainly visited by climbers going to SE Ridge of Chopicalqui.

In the north, Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m. East and SE ridges are accessible from Quabrada Ulta in the south. Both of the latter are difficult with Se Ridge (TD-, 1350m/2050m 4-5days round trip from Huaraz) being slightly easier than East face direct (TD, 80°, uiaa V, 950m).

Northern part of Chinchey group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is probably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha).

Valleys > Central Cordillera Blanca >
Valleys > Central Cordillera Blanca >

by laguna Cochca in Quebrada Huolcan

Valleys >

Furthest to the south lie Raria (Raria Norte (5576m), Raria Sur (5507m)) and Caullaraju groups (Huicsa (5476m), Tuco (5463m), Pastoruri (5240m), Caullaraju Este (5682m)). Both of these massifs offer a number of easy lower objectives around 5500m and would make a good acclimatisation area. The area is accessed from Huaraz via Pachacato up the Rio Punapampa road towards Pastorunil. During the summer there are many buses.

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Quebrada Honda is located to the south of Copa Sur (6188m) and Norte (6173m). The the east and south lie several high peaks: Chinchey (6222m), Pucaranra (6147m), Palcaraju (6274m), Tocllaraju(6032m) and Urus (5495m).

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >

400m, access from Vicos

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >

Mina Tomalamano

  • Copa V, Rampas NO ()
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >
  • Copap V, Rampas Sur ()
  • Copap IV, Arista NO ()
  • Copap III, Cara Oeste ()
  • Copap II, Arista Sur ()
  • Copap II, Cara Oeste ()
  • Copap I, Cara Oeste ()
  • Copap I, Arista NO ()
  • Copap I, South Ridge, Arista Sur ()
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >

Opposite Portachuelo de la Honda

  • Aquilpo Norte, Cara Este ()
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >

in Quebrada Cacahua

  • Aquilpo Sur, Arista SE ()
  • Aquilpo Sur, Arista NE ()
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >
  • Urus
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Honda >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

To the south of Quebrada Honda lies shorter Ishinca valley. Is is probably the best place in Cordillera Blanca for climbers with limited time or experience. The valley is surrounded by Urus (5495m) massif in the north between Honda and Ishinca valleys, Tocllaraju (6032m) and Palcaraju (6274m) in the east and Ishinca (5530m), Ranrapalca (6162m), Ochsapalca (5881m) and Vallunaraju 5686m) in the south between Ishinca and Cojup valleys. The valley is easily accessed from Huaraz in a day via villages of Paltay and Collon (3350m). Urus (PD-) and Ishinca (PD-) are popular as acclimatizations climbs, while Tocllaraju and especially Ranrapalca are more demanding climbs (both have several routes starting at around alpine grade D).

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Ishinca valley >

Trek from Collon to the base camp in Quebrada Ishinca at 4300m (5h) or Ishinca lake at 4800m (hut). Several peaks are possible from the same base camp.

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Ishinca valley >

Access from Ishinca BC

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Ishinca valley >

Access from Quebrada Ishinca via laguna Ishinca

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Ishinca valley >
  • Jangyaraju I, Arista SO
  • Jangyaraju I, Arista NO ()
  • Jangyaraju II, Cara SE ()
  • Jangyaraju II, Arista SE ()
  • Jangyaraju III, Cara SE
  • Jangyaraju III, Arista NO
  • Jangyaraju III, Arista Oeste
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Short Quebrada Llaca (AGMP hut at 4300m, access via Willcahuain by car) is located directly above Huaraz. It is the starting point for popular acclimatization climbs on Vallunaraju (5686m). Normal ascent follows North Ridge (AD-, II, 550m). Much more difficult Ocshapalca (5881m) is climbed from the same camp. Steep south face of Ochsapalca has difficult ice routes (ED, 650m). Ranrapalca (6162m) is not commonly climbed from this valley.

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Quabrada Cojup is used for Ranrapalca (south side), Palcaraju (6274m) and Pucaranra (6156m). Lagos Palcacocha (4500m) is reached in 14 hike from the road.

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Large Quebrada Quilcayhuanca is surrounded by Churup (5493m) in the north and Pucaranra (6156m), Chinchey (6309m), Tullparaju (5787m) and Andatnte (5518m) in the east. Its side valley Quebrada Cauesh is surrounded by Cayesh (5721m) in the east and San Juan (5843m) and Maparaju (5326m) in the south. Access is via the village of Pitec (3800m, 1,5h from Huaraz). From there the junction of the main valley and Quebrada Cayesh is reached in 9h (4050m). It is possible to walk all the way from Huaraz but it adds another 15,5 km. Maparaju (SW and W slopes, F) and San Juan (NW Ridge (normal route), AD+, 65°), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents. Despite their height, Chinchey (West Face to North Ridge PD+/AD-, 55°, 3-4 days roundtrip from meadow camp) and Pucaranra are relatively seldom climbed.

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Quilcayhuanca >
  • Churup I, South side, South Face ()
  • Churup I, SW side, SW Face
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Quilcayhuanca >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Quilcayhuanca >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Quilcayhuanca >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Quilcayhuanca >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Quilcayhuanca >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Quebrada Rajucolta provides access to two very different peaks, relatively easy Cashan (5716m) and extremely difficult Huantsan (6369m). Even though Huantsan, the highest peak of southern Cordillera Blanca, is located close to Huaraz, it is one o? the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju.

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Rajucolta >

aka Laguna Huami-Malana

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Rajucolta >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > East side >

Located to the east of the range

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > East side >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > East side >
  • Tumarinaraju ()
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > East side >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > East side >

From Chavin

  • Huantsan Sur, Arista NE ()
  • Huantsan Sur, Pendientes E ()
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Quebrada Rurec is visited (from Olleros) to climb Uruashraju (5722m), located at the southern part of the group.

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Rurec >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Rurec >
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Rurec >

Laguna Shacsha

Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Rurec >
  • Urushraju, Arista S ()
Valleys > Southern Cordillera Blanca >

Still further to the south, separated from the main group lies Yanamarey valley with the large lake of Querococha (3980m). is is accessed from Catac. The valley offers good acclimatization climbs of Yanamaray Norte (5237m) and Sur (5197). Also SE side Pucaraju (5322m) is possible from the valley.

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