Taulliraju mountain in Huascarán National Park in Peru. Credit: Florian Ederer,  Shot on 2009-08-31 Photo taken in , Caraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) Florian Ederer, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
Taulliraju mountain in Huascarán National Park in Peru. Credit: Florian Ederer, Shot on 2009-08-31 Photo taken in , Caraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) Florian Ederer, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

General information

The Cordillera Blanca ("White Range") lies just 100km east of the Pacific Ocean. It is some 180 km long narrow chain of mountains running from north to south. It offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. The Cordillera Blanca contains more than 300 major summits, more than 31 of these rise over 6000 meters and further 30 are higher than 5700m. The highest peak, Huascarán offers fine climbing although it is one of the easiest 6000m peaks in the range.

The range consists of several massifs. Here they have been grouped together to form few larger groups. While division of Cordillera Blanca to massifs is fairly consistent between various sources, no established division toa handful of larger parts exists. Therefore the division used here is arbitrary and different sources may very well use different division.

Northern Cordillera Blanca

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located due north of Llanganuca valley (road from Yungay to Yanama). Champará and Milluacocha are smaller groups located furthest to the north. Main groups of the norther area are Santa Cruz and Houandoy, both of which have several peaks rising to around 6000m. Most visited area is Santa Cruz valley between Santa Cruz group in the north and Huandou group in the south. The valley is also very popular among trekkers. Probably best known climbs are Alpamayo and Quitaraju in Santa Cruz group and Artesonraju, Pisco and Huandoy peaks in Huandoy group.

Central Cordillera Blanca

Central part lies between quebrada Llanganuco in the north (road from Yungay to Yanama) and quebrada Honda in south. The area has four main groups, Huascaran, Contrahierbas, Copa and Perlilla. By far the best known and most visited among climbers of these groups is Huascaran with Huascaran Sur (6769m) being the highest peak in Cordillera Blanca and 7th highest peak in the Andes. Easier Chopicalqui is also a popular peak. The other peaks further south are far less visited, despite Hualcan and Copa rising to above 6000m mark.

Southern Cordillera Blanca

Southern part of the range consists of several massifs and valleys located to the south of Quebrada Honda, close to city of Huaraz. Two main groups of the area are Chinchey and Huantsan with both having several peaks rising above 6000m altitude. Close proximity to Huaraz make the areas relatively popular, particularly Ishinca valley is very popular. There are number of popular peaks from the valley, particularly Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca. On the other hand, Palcaraju, Chinchey and Huantsan are among the least visited 6000m peaks in the range. Southernmost ranges Yanamaray, Pongas, Raria and Caullaraju are lower and far less glaciated. Most of the peaks in these areas have non-technical ascents that can climbed as day trips from the valleys.

Logistics

The main center for accessing all parts of Cordillera Blanca, as well as Cordillera Huayhuash, is Huaraz (3091m). It is located in a valley Callejón de Huaylash, is the mecca of Andinism. Nearest major airport is Lima (Jorge Chavez).

Nearest major airport is Lima (Jorge Chavez), from where it is 8h bus trip to Huaraz (3091m), located in a valley Callejón de Muaylos, the mecca of Andinism. There is regular bus service both between Lima and Huaraz and Huaraz and Chiquian, usually taking between 7 and 10 hours. Recently there are daily flights from Lima organized by LCPeru. Apparently the plane is relatively small and there are restriction on baggage allowance, which will make flying problematic for parties arriving with full-on climbing gear. The parties going to Cajatambo are best served by taking a bus from Lima.

Most base camps in the Cordillera Blanca can be reached in a day from Huaraz. For climbs in the northern Cordillera Blanca, Yungay (2550m) or Caraz further north in the valley (2250m, 2h from Huaraz by bus) may be more practical bases (both accessible from Huaraz by bus).

The cheapest way to travel in and around Huaraz and Callejón de Huaylash are collectivos. However, they don't go everywhere, they are rather slow and traveling in them with a lot of baggage may be difficult as they have limited space for the luggage. They can however be very handy, particularly when coming back from the mountains. Bus service is not as frequent and it is more expensive. Taxis and private transport are used to access areas not covered by buses or collectivos or if more speed or flexibility is desired.

Convenient centers:

  • Lima-12.043333-77.028333Capital city of Peru with international airport. Lima is huge city of around 10 million people. Miraflores is the most modern and safest part of the city, roughly half an hour from the airport.
  • Huaraz-9.533333-77.5333333091Major city in Ancash state in northern Peru. Located very close to Cordillera Blanca and considered the mecca of Andinism. The city has over 100 000 inhabitants and has a host of shops, hotels, restaurants and trekking agencies.
    Connections:
    • from Lima, Peru - Huaraz, Peru (map). 7-8h.
  • Caraz-9.044444-77.8077782250

Climbing info

General

Most of the climbing is on the snow or ice, on steep faces and sharp ridges that often build extensive cornices. North faces tend to have good snow and ice, at least until noon while south face often have unconsolidated powder. South American snow seem to stick to steeper slopes than in European Alps. Ridges are often beautiful with impressive double cornices. However because of this, they are often very difficult and unjustifiably dangerous. Which is why many routes top out at summit ridge without going to actual summit. Rock quality is generally poor but there are exceptions. Best known big rock climbs are to be found on la Esfinge (quebrada Paron), Hatun Ulloc (quebrada Ishinca) and in quebrada Rurec.

Climbers are subject to pay National park fee (S/.5 for a day, S/.65 for a month) for climbs located within Huascaran National Park. In more popular areas a ward is in the park entrance/road end/camp site to collect a fee. In less visited areas there's no one to collect the fee. In theory unguided climbing is not allowed in the national park. However, in less visited areas there's nobody to check that you are guided. Moreover, members of alpine clubs are allowed to climb independently. Several sources say that there have been some negotiation necessary (and membership cards etc. have helped). However, in 2012 nobody seemed to be interested in any such documents.

Classic climbs include:

    Weather and conditions

    Climbing season lasts from May to Semptember with June and July typically considered best months for climbing. The area has typically heavy rains from December to March and a markedly dry season from May to October. During this period the weather cycle is very stable with several days of good weather followed by one or two of bad. Within this period, sunny days may have temperatures up to 25°C at 3000m. There will normally be overnight frost anywhere above around 4500m. Snow line is around 5000m. Keeping in mind the altitude, the temperatures are not too extreme. Temperatures around -15°C or -20°C are about as cold as can be expected above 6000m during the night.

    Be wary of route descriptions. Many of the routes have changes a lot during the years which may have completely altered the nature of the route. Perhaps most common effect of this is that what was once a straight forward snow/ice climb may have become more of a mixed proposition, perhaps also a bowling alley of falling rock and seracs. On the other hand, warmer temperatures may have turned once severely threatened routes into rather safe objectives if they have resulted in cornices and seracs to fall off or if freeze-thaw cycle has ceased and rocks that were held on the mountain by freezing have already dropped off. Casa de Guias in Huaraz has some information about the current conditions.

    Commercial services

    There are several companies offering their services for climbers, trekkers and mountain bikers. Most of them offer service packages to cover either one or more climbs as a package deal including travel, food, guides; the works. Many of them are also willing to offer tailored packages for climbers searching for range of services to fit individual needs and interests (such as just needing a lift and base camp services but who want to climb independently in alpine style). The companies can typically organize lifts, burros, arrieros etc. at a more affordable price than you could yourself. Using a company to organize such services is still probably a good idea. This is also way more reliable if your Spanish is not up to fluent. Part of the cook's pay can typically be disregarded because they can usually get the food more affordably than you could yourself. Cooks are also handy to have in the camp to look over your stuff when you are in the mountains.

    If you want to do the organizing yourself, Casa de Guias in Huaraz is a good starting point. Arrieros and burros can also be organized in some of the more popular starting points (Cashapampa). Generally mules are used to transport gear to the base camp, porters being used only if mules cannot be used. In more popular areas arrieros have arranged sort of a union so that they have fixed prices and amount of days.

    Expect to pay:

    • $35/day for a cook (2012)
    • $10/day per arriero (2001)
    • $5/day per mule (2001)
    • $25/day for a porter (2002)
    • $100-several hundred $/day for a guide depending heavily on the difficulty of the climb.

    Note that the customers needs to provide porters, cook and arrieros with food and shelter.

    Grading

    Most commonly used grading system is French adjectival system (IFAS). However, due to popularity of the area among Americans NCCS system is also sometimes used. Ice pitches are most commonly graded with steepness, however very steep routes are often graded with WI grade or sometimes Scottish grade. Rock pithes have traditionally been graded with uiaa rock grade. However, depending on which system the first ascent party was most familiar with, yds or french rock grades may be used instead. Rock grade is accompanied with standard aid climbing grade whenever applicable.

    Take all gradings with healthy portion of grain of salt, even more so than is usual. There appear to be significant grade variation between different sources (as large as one source saying D, another ED). Many less popular routes have seen only few ascents, often long time ago, during which time conditions may have changed dramatically. Usually making the routes more difficult, but opposite examples may very well exist as well.

    Accommodation

    There are few huts:

    • Refugio Peru-9.026153-77.6372194665
    • Refugio Ishinca-9.368333-77.4255564350
    • Refugio Huascarán-9.137796359-77.6348397514675
    • Shelter Giordano Longoni5000
    • Caretakers hut-8.998263-77.6842554200

    Further several commonly used base camp sites.

    References

    Most up to date complete guide to the area are "Escaladas en los Andes - Guia De La Cordillera Blanca" by Juanjo Tomé and "Cordillera Blanca, parte Norte" by Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, both available only in Spanish. The latter is newer and generally more complete, but only covers the northern part of the range. Parte sur is rumored to be in the works, but no information about the schedule exists. "Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca Peru" by Brad Johnson is excellent guide, but covers only selected routes. All other guidebooks I've come across are outdated, possibly out of print or only give rather vague details about the routes, particularly on any other routes than the normal routes on 6000m peaks. However, most significant ascents have been documented in alpine club journals, particularly in American Alpine Journal (AAJ). Web searches don't usually turn up with a lot of climbing information, save from reports of new routes on web pages of climbing magazines.

    Cross-referencing the sources can be troublesome as discrepancies between different maps and books both in names and heights can be considerable. First ascent details often make cross-referencing far easier. That being said, there are discrepancies in them as well.

    Casa de guias has some information about current conditions and they keep a book where people can enter information about the new climbs. So if you climb a suspected new line, it's worth to check there before reporting it to Alpinist, AAJ etc. as a new route. Unfortunately this new route information is not available on the net.

    • Frimer, Jeremy: Climbs & treks in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Isbn: 0973303557. Elaho, 2005.
    • Beaud, Phillipe: Peruvian Andes - Cordillera Blanca. Isbn: 9780938567066. Cloudcap, 1988.
    • Bohórquez, Antonio Gómez & Ñacle, Juan Jose Tomé: La Cordillera Blanca de los Andes. Isbn: 978-84-87746-99-4. Ed Desnivel, 1998.
    • Johnson, Brad: Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca Peru. Isbn: 9781890437909. Western Reflections Publishing Company, 2003.
    • Ricker, John F.: Yuraq Janka - Guide to the Peruvian Andes - Cordilleras Blanca & Rosko, Pap/Map edition. Isbn: 9780930410056. American Alpine Club, 1977.
    • Sharman, David: Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Isbn: 9780952358206. Whizzo Climbs, 1995.
    • Ñacle, Juan José Tomé: Escaladas en los Andes - Guia De La Cordillera Blanca. Isbn: 9788489969438. Ediciones Desnivel, 1999.
    • Biggar, John: The Andes, 2nd edition. Isbn: 9780953608706. Andes, 1999.
    • Biggar, John: Biggar 2005 - A Guide for Climbers, 3Rev Ed edition. Isbn: 9780953608727. Andes, 2005.
    • Harper, Kate; Pitkethly, Val & Saunders, Victor: Trekking and Climbing in the Andes. Isbn: 9781859743911. New Holland Publishers Ltd, 2002.
    • Radehose, Eckehard: Traumberge Amerikas. Von Alaska bis Feuerland.. Isbn: 9783763330065. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2002.
    • Neate, Jill: Mountaineering in the Andes. Isbn: 9780907649649. Hyperion Books, 1993.
    • Kiendler, Hermann: Bergführer Anden - Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo - Bergführer Anden: Vom Chimborazo zum Marmolejo, 1st edition. Isbn: 9783936740363. Panico Alpinverlag, 2007.
    • Bohórquez, Antonio Gómez: Cordillera Blanca - Escaladas Parte Norte. Isbn: 9788460779377. Andesinfo, 2003.
    • 0/3a Cordillera Blanca Nord, Pérou. 9783928777575. DAV, 2002. 1:100.000
    • 0/3b Cordillera Blanca Sud. 9783937530055. DAV, 2002. 1:100.000
    • PIGM: 18-h Carango
    • PIGM: 19-h Carhuas
    • overview map
    • Maps of Cordillera Blanca

    Valleys

    Northern Cordillera Blanca

    Piramide de Garcilaso above laguna Paron. NW faceon the left, West
ridge towards the camera and SW face on the right. Small bumb on left
hand skyline in Piramide Norte and small peak in ther left is paron
Grande (Paria). Credit: Alberto Cafferata,  Shot on 2012-08-09 Photo taken in , Caraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
    Piramide de Garcilaso above laguna Paron. NW faceon the left, West ridge towards the camera and SW face on the right. Small bumb on left hand skyline in Piramide Norte and small peak in ther left is paron Grande (Paria). Credit: Alberto Cafferata, Shot on 2012-08-09 Photo taken in , Caraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

    Northern part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Llanganuco Valley. Northern border is Rio Urcón. The area features Santa Cruz and Huandoy massifs. Most visited areas are Santa Cruz and Llanganuco valleys, both of which are also popular among trekkers. Most popular climbs are Alpamayo and Quitaraju in Santa Cruz valley, Artesonraju in Paron valley and Pisco and Chopicalqui in Llanganuco valley. In contrast, there are several high peaks that may see an ascent, or even an attempt maybe once in every ten or more years. Peaks like Pucajirca for example are far from climbed out as far as new route potential goes.

    West side

    West side of northern Cordillera Blanca is accessed from the road through Callejon de Huaylash. From the main valley there are numerous smaller roads leading to various road ends. Paron valley has a road access as far as laguna Paron and there's a road through quebrada Llanganuco facilitating access to east side of the range.

    • Yuracmarca-8.747966-77.9175351200
    • Huallanca-8.8166667-77.86666671420
    • Pampa Hualcayán-8.898555-77.7973223075
    • Cashapampa-8.955789-77.7783112900main access point for quebrada Santa Cruz.
    • Caraz-9.044444-77.807778225081,7km, 1,5-2h from Huaraz by bus
    • Yungay-9.138114-77.745488255081,7km, 1h from Huaraz by bus

    Rio Urcón

    Northernmost valley of Cordillera Blanca, located to the north of Champará massif. From Yuracmarca (Rio Santa/Callejon de Huaylas) towards east via Yánac to Tarica.

    • Yánac-8.614628-77.866682
      Connections:
      • from Yuracmarca
    • TaricaVillage located NE of San Julian.
      Connections:
      • from Yuracmarca

    Rio Quitaracsa

    • Quitaracsa-8.773202-77.7408893350Small village in Rio Quitaracsa valley between Milluacocha and Champará massifs.

    Quebrada de los Cedros & quebrada Alpamayo

    Quebrada Alpamayo is not particularly often visited by climbers. This is surely due to long approach and rather limited number of famous climbs. Alpamayo is very famous, but approach to it is shorter from quebrada Santa Cruz. The most significant climb from the valley aside of Alpamayo is Santa Cruz. Milluacocha massif located to the north of the valley has lower and easier objectives. Main base camp of the valley is Jancarurish.

    • Ruina Pampa-8.828336-77.7199464120
      Connections:
      • from Pampa Hualcayán (true)
    • Campo base NE del Santa Cruz (laguna Jancarurish)-8.857341-77.6747134300Laguna Jancarurish (4450m) is the main base camp in Quebrada Alpamayo. The camp is located somewhat further in the valley from the lake.
    • Abra Cara-Cara-8.825961-77.6737694830High mountain pass (4830m), located to the north of laguna Jancarurish in the upper Quebrada Alpamayo. Can be used to access Quebrada Pilanco (laguna Pilanco BC) and Quebrada Tayapampa via Mesapata pass (4460m).
      Connections:
      • from Pampa Hualcayán (true)
    • laguna Pilanco (campamento dos lagunas)-8.815274-77.6798634650Llaguna Pilanco (campamento dos lagunas) Located to the north of Quebrada Alpamayo. Access through Quebrada Alpamayo and Cara-Cara Pass (4830m).
    Ruina Pampa
      Laguna Jancarurish
        Abra Cara-Cara
          Laguna Pilanco

            West of Santa Cruz

            Few valleys from the west between quebrada Alpamayo and quebrada Santa Cruz are used to access west side climbs of Santa Cruz group.

            • laguna Cullicocha-8.864889-77.7567674450
              Connections:
              • from Pampa Hualcayán: 3-4h. (true)
            • laguna Rajucocha-8.86438-77.7307614500Immediately to the east of laguna Cullicocha and west of Santa Cruz Norte.
              Connections:
              • from Pampa Hualcayán (true)
            • laguna Yuraccocha-8.884139-77.7335934620Located to the west of Santa Cruz Chico
              Connections:
              • from Cashapampa: 32km trek from Cashapampa to Yuraccocha via Hualcayan (3200m) and quebrada Ragraneo, 3 days up, 2 days down. (true)
              • from Pampa Hualcayán 2,5h. (true)
            • laguna Rajucoltacocha-8.902371-77.7282714600
              Connections:
              • from Cashapampa (true)
            Laguna Rajucocha & Cullicocha

            Shorter valley to the south Quebrada de los Cedros and Quebrada Alpamayo containing laguna Cullicocha (Kullicocha BC) and laguna Rajucocha. Access the same as for Quebrada Alpamayo.

              Laguna Yuraccocha
                Laguna Rajucolta

                Located to NE of Cashapampa, between Quebrada Yuraccocha and Paccharuri. Access to west side of Santa Cruz Grande.

                  Quebrada Santa Cruz

                  Santa Cruz valley lies between Santa Cruz massif in the north and Huandoy group in the south. The valley is popular both among climbers and trekkers. Apart from Quebrada Paccharuri, the other climbs commonly climbed are all accessed from Cashapampa (2900m) through Santa Cruz valley via laguna Jatuncoccha. Punta Union pass provides access from Santa Cruz valley to Quebrada Huaripampa.

                  Llamacorral (3700m) - laguna Ichiccocha (3800m) - laguna Jatuncocha (3900m) - Quishuar (400m) - Taullipampa (4100m) - Punta Uniopn Pass (4750m).

                  Most of the climbs available from Santa Cruz valley are in the middle or upper grades. Jancarurish, Quisuaraju and Pucaraju are pretty much the only climbs in the lower grades. Most popular climb of the area is picturesque Alpamayo. It is often referred to as the most beautiful mountain in the world and it is correspondingly popular. Another very famous climb is very beautiful Taulliraju, located at the end of the Santa Cruz valley rising above the Inca pass of Punta Union (4750m). Although it is located very close to a popular trekking route is seldom climbed due to its difficulty (all SW routes TD or more, north side is possibly easier but seldom visited).

                  • Quebrada Paccharuri-8.907204-77.6982314375From the lower quebrada Santa Cruz towards NE. The valley is surrounded by three peaks: Santa Cruz Grande, Abasraju and Peak 5582.
                    Connections:
                    • from Cashapampa 5-7h. (true)
                  • Llamacorral-8.946038-77.7039813700
                    Connections:
                    • from Cashapampa 3-4h. (true)
                  • laguna Ichicocha-8.938407-77.6769453800
                  • laguna Jatuncocha-8.930183-77.6629543950
                    Connections:
                    • from Cashapampa (true)
                  • laguna Quitacocha-8.914666-77.6559164500Small lake located above laguna Jatuncocha. Distance is very short, but altitude gain is significant enough (~350m) to wqarrant placing a camp by the lake.
                    Connections:
                    • from laguna Jatuncocha 2h. (true)
                  • Arhueycocha (Alpamayo BC, Campo base del Alpamayo)-8.8877-77.6280214300
                    Connections:
                    • from Cashapampa: 1,5 days trek from Cashapampa. Except for the last two hours the route is equal to the popular Santa Cruz - Llanganuco - Trek. 2h from Jatuncocha/Quisuaraju. (true)
                    • to Alpamayo-Quitaraju col camp
                  • Alpamayo-Quitaraju col camp-8.884902-77.6554875300Col camp located between Alpamayo and Quiraraju. Access most commonly from laguna Arhueycocha located to the east or from laguna Jancarurish located in the north (quebrada Alpamayo).
                    Connections:
                    • Arhueycocha (true)
                    • Laguna Jancarurish 2,5klm, 2,5h. (true)
                  • Quebrada Arteson-8.940782-77.6160914700
                    Connections:
                    • from Taullipampa (true)
                  • Taullipampa-8.918736-77.6066494100
                    Connections:
                    • from Cashapampa (true)
                  • Taullicocha-8.906526-77.5871664250
                    Connections:
                    • from Taullipampa (true)
                  • Punta Union-8.911825-77.5812444760
                    Connections:
                    • from Taullipampa (true)
                  • Rinrijirca-Taulliraju col-8.747966-77.9175355300
                  Quebrada Paccharuri

                  Quebrada Paccharuri is side valley towards NE from the lower quebrada Santa Cruz. It provides the shortest approach to Santa Cruz Grande (south face). Base camp is customarily at ~4375m (5-7h from Cashapampa).

                    central quebrada Santa Cruz

                    Central part of quebrada Santa Cruz is used to access only few climbs and none of those are very popular. There are few possible camp-sites depending on the objective. Most commonly used of these is laguna Jatuncocha, a large lake located in the central part of Quebrada Santa Cruz along the very popular trekking route. North side climbs of the Caraz are typically climbed directly from laguna Jatuncocha, climbs located on the north side of quebrada Santa Cruz are better started from laguna Quitacocha, located immediately to the north.

                      Laguna Quitacocha

                      Small lake to the north of main Santa Cruz valley, due north from laguna Jatuncocha. East faces of Peak 5582, and Abasraju as well as SW side of Quitaraju and Quisuaeaju are the accessible features from this camp.

                        Laguna Arhueycocha

                        Laguna Arhueycocha camp is located at the end of short but wide northern side valley. The valley branchess off at Quishuar (4000m), between laguna Jatuncocha and Taullipampa. The valley gives access to numerous peaks: Quisuaraju, Quitaraju, Alpamayo, all Pucarashta peaks, Pucajirca Oeste, Pucrapucraraju, Rinrijirca and Curicashajana. However, most frequent climbs from the valley are the ones from Quitraraju-Alpamayo col camp, located somewhat to the west of laguna Arhuaycocha.

                          Quitaraju-Alpamayo col camp
                            Quebrada Arteson

                            Located in a southern side valley of Quebrada Santa Cruz, south from Taullipampa and more or less opposite of laguna Arhueycocha. Short valley with a small lake at ~4700m and access to Artesonraju (NE and N sides), Paron (West ridge, North side and NE ridge and Milliashraju.

                              Taullipampa

                              Located along the Santa Cruz trekking route, in the upper part of the valley, not far away from Punta Union Pass and immediately below quebrada Arteson.

                                Taullicocha

                                BC at 4250, not too far away from Punta Union Pass. A bit aside of the Santa Cruz trek, access from Taullipampa.

                                  Paron valley

                                  Paron valley is located in the heart of Huandoy massif. It is surrounded a horseshoe of high peaks (starting from NW): La Esfinge (5327m), Putaca (5585m), Aguja I (5840m), Aguja II (5888m), Aguja III (5775m), Caraz I (6025m), Caraz II (6020m), Caraz III (5720m), Artesonraju (6025m), Paron Grande (Paria, 5600m), Piramide de Garcilaso (5885m), Chacraraju Oeste (6112m), Pisco (5752m), Huandoy Este (6000m), Huandoy Norte (6395m) and Huandoy Oeste (6356m).

                                  The valley is accessed by car from Caraz to west end of Lago Paron (Caretakers hut, 4185m, 33km, 1,5h from Caraz). There are no burros in the valley, but porters can be used to get the gear to the base camps. There are two base camps in the valley, Esfinge BC and Paron BC. For all other objects aside of Esfinge are accessed from Paron BC. Virtually all climbs from paron BC require at least one high camp.

                                  The most climbed objective from this valley is Artesonraju SE face. Highly aesthetic Pyramide de Garcilaso offers rather similar but a notch or two more technical alternative, particularly on SW face. Also all peaks of Aguja, Caraz and Chacraraju Oeste as well as North side of Huandoy Norte have difficult routes on ice and mixed ground. Particularly West face of Chacrarju Oeste and North face Huandoy Norte rank among the most difficult climbs on whole Cordillera Blanca.

                                  La Esfinge, on the other hand, is the best known big rock face of Cordillera Blance with lots of hard routes. Some rock routes exist also on Punta Carlos Calvo.

                                  There are only few routes suited for acclimatization, Esfinge NE Ridge (F or PD) is the only non-technical route from the valley while few routes on Paron peaks, Piramide Norte and North side of Pisco Este are all around AD. All of the acclimatizations climbs are some distance and quite a bit of altitude gain away from the base camp, so usually they require one high camp.

                                  • Caretakers hut-8.998263-77.6842554185
                                    Connections:
                                    • from Caraz: 33km, 1,5h from Caraz. (true)
                                  • Esfinge BC-9.000722-77.7030374700Camp used for all ascents of la Esfinge
                                    Connections:
                                  • Paron base camp (Artesoncocha, Campo base del circo Paron)-8.982113-77.6484124200BC @4200 at the E end of laguna Paron between laguna Paron and Artesoncocha. Main base camp in the valley which is used to access most climbs except for those on la Esfinge, Aguja group, South face of Caraz I and laguna Huandoy.
                                    Connections:
                                  • Caraz I-Aguja-8.975797-77.670255000North side of laguna Paron (5000m)
                                    Connections:
                                  • Campo moraine de los Caraz I & II5050
                                    Connections:
                                  • Campo moraine del glacier de Paron (Artesonraju moraine camp, Morrena Arteson)-8.962571-77.6379784800
                                    Connections:
                                  • Glaciar del Paron (Artesonraju glacier camp)-8.959519-77.6289655100
                                  • Piramide de Garcilaso moraine camp (Campo moraine de los Pirámide, Chacracocha)-8.986691-77.6444214400
                                    Connections:
                                  • North side of Huandoy
                                    Connections:
                                  • laguna Huandoy-9.016743-77.6804784730
                                    Connections:
                                  • Tomé pp.84
                                  Esfinge BC

                                  Used to climb La Esfinge, the best known rock climb in Cordillera Blanca (1985 route is V 5.11 (uiaa VI+,A1 or 5.10 C1-2 or all free at f6c-/7a or 5.11c). On the other hand, NE side is the least technical route from Paron valley making it suitable for acclimatization.

                                    Caraz I-Aguja

                                    Camp located on the north side of laguna Paron (5000m). The camp is used for climbing Aguja Peaks and South face of Caraz I. All routes are quite technical, Aguja Chica and south face of Aguja I least so.

                                      laguna Paron

                                      Most of the high camps (East bank of laguna Paron, BC and moraine camp of Artesonraju, Caraz II moraine camp, Pirámide moraine camp and Chacracocha) can be readily accessed from the base camp. Very few routes are climbed directly from the base camp. Greatest number of routes and most of the less technical ones are climbed from this base using using one high camp as the distance from the base camp is too great for most of the parties to climb them as day trips.

                                      • Tomé B/B3 (pp.87)
                                      C. Morrena Caraz I

                                      Camps on the east side of laguna Paron are used to climb East faces of Caraz I and II. All of the climbs from these camps are technical propositions on mixed ground. Caraz I and South face of II are technically easier than East face of Caraz II but these climbs involve getting to the col between Caraz I and II which involves negotiating wildly crevassed glacier.

                                        Paron glacier

                                        These camps are used to climb the peaks at the end of the valley. Most climbed objective is Artesonraju (SE face). Majority of the easier climbs from the valley can be reached from these camps. Difficult routes on South face of Caraz III are most readily climbed from moraine camp at 4800m, while the rest are are shorter from the camp at 5100m on Paron glacier below Artesonraju.

                                          Chacracocha

                                          Two glacier basins can be approached from the camp by Chacracocha. Usually none of the climbs are climbed directly from this camp but involve at least one additional camp higher up.

                                          Most famous and obvious targets from this camp are found on SW face of Piramide de Garcilaso and West face of Chacraraju Oeste. Piramide's SW face is classic technical climb on mixed ground, but the technical difficulty is not too extreme to keep parties from climbing or attempting it more or less regularly. That is not the case with West face of Chacraraju Oeste, which is highly technical, among the most fear-inducing faces of the whole range. The first ascent was done in three stages using big wall tactics and 400m of fixed rope. Third main face from this basin is the north face of Pisco Este. However, Tomé describes approach through Huandoy NE glacier. It might also be possible to gain the col Chacraraju-Pisco Este from this side to join Arista Este route. On the case of Piramide, high camp is placed on glacier at 5000m. For Chacraraju Oeste, the camp is placed on Chacraraju glacier Oeste below the face.

                                          Another glacier basin (Huandoy NE glacier) can be used to approach routes on NW ridge of Pisco Este as well as NW side of Pisco Oeste and North side of Huandoy Este. While the basin can be used to gain the normal route of Pisco Oeste from Huandoy Este - Pisco Oeste col, the climb from this side is longer and significantly more difficult proposition. All in all though, the climbs on Pisco peaks from this glacier basin are among the easier climbs from Paron valley and could be considered for acclimatization. Arista NE of Pisco probably possible as well (by gaining the col 5580m between the Pisco summits).

                                            North side of Huandoy

                                            Camp on the north side of Huandoy can be used to climb North face of Huandoy N and West face of Huandoy Este. The latter has no routes. However, West ridge of Este climbs the ridge from the col between Huandoy Norte and Este. The col might be possible to gain from this side as well.

                                            • Tomé B/B4 (pp.86-7)
                                              Laguna Huandoy

                                              Few technical ice/mixed routes. Even getting to the routes from the camp is anything but straight forward as it involves steep and highly chaotic Huandoy glacier NO. At least one high camp is usually necessary on the glacier at 5000-5100m.

                                              NW face of Huandoy Norte is mostly ice face with rock on the upper part of the face. Vague rocky spur splits the face into WNW and NW faces. North face of Huandoy Oeste is rockier and more difficult. Conditions permitting the least technical way to climb Huandoy Oeste from this side would probably be to climb to col between Norte and Oeste and follow the ridge to the summit. However, this is threatened by seracs.

                                              With the same starting point by Caretakers hut, rocky towers of Cerro de la Cascada, Yanawaka and Torre de Parón can be climbed. The latter is not to be confused with La Esfinge which has previously been erroneously called Torre de Parón.

                                              • Tomé B/B5 (pp.87)

                                                Quebrada Llanganuco

                                                Main Quebrada Llanganuco and its side valleys Quebrada Demanda and Quebrada Yuraj are located between Huandoy group in the north and Huascarán in the south are surrounded by eight 6000m peaks. Llanganuco is very popular valley. Availability of few relatively non-technical routes on high peaks such as SW Ridge of Pisco Oeste, SW Ridge of Chopicalqui and West face of Yanapaccha and ease of access are without a doubt key factors to this. make no mistake though, there is no shortage of mid-grade and difficult routes from this valley either.

                                                Main Quebrada Llanganuco and its side valleys Quebrada Demanda and Quebrada Yuraj are located between Huandoy group in the north and Huascarán in the south are surrounded by eight 6000m peaks and few other important peaks: Huandoy Sur (6160m), Oeste (6356m), Norte (6395m) and Este (6000m), Pisco Este (5760m) and Oeste (5752m), Chacraraju Oeste (6112m) and Este (6001m) in the northeast, Yanapaccha (5460m) in the east at the end of the valley and Chopicalqui Norte, Chopicalqui (6354m), Huascarán Sur (6769m) and Norte (6664m) in the south.

                                                Llanganuco is very popular valley. Availability of few relatively non-technical routes on high peaks and ease of access make this hardly surprising. The valley is popular among trekkers as well, particularly laguna 69 is popular. The road through the valley make the usual base camp sites available within a day from Huaraz. The valley is accessed from Yungay (2550m, access from Huaraz by bus, 1h). From there by car 2km pass Llanganuco lakes to traditional Pisco Base Camp by Cebollopampa at the entrance of Quebrada Demanda (~3900m). Most parties nowadays skip this camp site and place their base camp further up, usually by Refugio Peru, Yanapaccha or Quebrada Ancosh depending the objective.

                                                Most climbers visiting this valley are drawn by SW Ridge of Pisco Oeste, quite probably the most frequented route in Cordillera Blanca. Another route seeing a lot of action is Yanapaccha West face. Both of these routes are among the easiest in the range and require only one camp. Therefore they are both very popular peaks suitable both for acclimatization and less experienced parties. Significantly higher but not too technical Chopicalqui is another popular target. It is quite possibly the easiest means to climb 6000m peak in the range, at least from quebrada Llanganuco.

                                                For those looking for mid-grade objectives, Huandoy peaks (particularly NE and SE aspects of Norte and Oeste) and South face of Pisco Oeste are probably the most popular objectives.

                                                Finally, the most famous really difficult routes are to be found on South faces of both Chacrarajus, South face of Huandoy Sur and NE and North faces of Huascaran Norte. There are a lot of routes in TD-ED range on many other peaks as well, but those mentioned before are the best known of them.

                                                Most climbing from this valley is on mixed ground, particularly virtually all of the more difficult routes have mixed crux. Especially gigantic south face of Huandoy Sur and North face of Huascarán Norte are quite rocky, and many routes on the latter and all existing routes on the former use a lot of aid climbing. Gigantic Huandoy Sur South Face is a rock face of Yosemite proportions, probably the most imposing rock face in the whole range. Vegetation and lack of good crack systems have kept the number of routes and ascents quite limited.

                                                • Llanganuco BC (Cebollobamba)-9.040054-77.6076083900Located to the east (up) of Llanganuco lakes, just before the road starts to ascent in numerous serpentines to Portachuelo de Llanganuco. Trail from Cebollobampa to laguna 69 and Refugio Peru. 26,9km from Yungay
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Yungay (true)
                                                  • to Refugio Peru (true)
                                                  • to Laguna 69 (true)
                                                • Quebrada Rajururi (Huaypallana)-9.062771-77.6814084100
                                                • Huandoy South moraine camp
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from lagunas Llanganuco (true)
                                                • Refugio Peru (Pisco BC)-9.026153-77.6372194665
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Llanganuco BC 1,5-3h. (true)
                                                • Huandoy Sur NE5200
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Refugio Peru 5-6h. (true)
                                                • Huandoy East side5200
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Refugio Peru 5-6h, 3-4h from Pisco moraine camp. (true)
                                                • Glaciares N & NO del Huandoy5000
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Refugio Peru (true)
                                                • Yanapaccha moraine camp5000
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Llanganuco BC 4-5h from the road. (true)
                                                • Laguna 69-9.010131-77.6121574600
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Llanganuco BC: Llanganuco BC via Quebrada Demanda. 3-4h from the road. (true)
                                                • Chopicalqui BC-9.066754-77.5975664300
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from Road to portachuelo de Llanganuco 0,5h from the road. (true)
                                                • Huascarán Norte North5150
                                                  Connections:
                                                  • from lagunas Llanganuco 1400m, 1 day.
                                                  • from Cebollopampa 1000m, 4-5h. (true)
                                                  • from Chopicalqui BC: As for NE face of Chopicalqui.
                                                • Portachuelo de Llanganuco-9.049717-77.5905284767High pass (4767m) along the road connecting Quebrada Llanganuco in the west and Quebrada Huaripampa in the east. Camp site ny lagunas Morococha on Quebrada Morococha side.
                                                Quebrada Rajururi

                                                Quebrada Rajururi is short parallel valley to the north of Llanganuco. It is accessed from the road in the main Callejon de Huaylas very close to the crossing to quebrada Llanganuco. This camp is mainly used to climb Huandoy Oeste from the west side. There are only handful of routes, all of them difficult. Additionally this valley could be used to access West side of Huandoy Sur, South side of Huandoy Norte and SE side of P5480.

                                                  Huandoy South moraine camp

                                                  Access from the road before reaching Cebollapampa. The camp is used solely to climb Huandoy Sur from the south side. As the south face is gigantic rock face of Yosemite proportions and all of the routes on it are extremely difficult and involve a lot of aid, there are hardly many climbers in this camp. SW buttress in a lot easier than the routes on South face.

                                                    Cebollapampa

                                                    Cebollopampa is the traditional base camp site in quebrada Lallanganuco. It is located close to road where it starts to climbs towards Portachuelo de Llanganuco. No climbs are usually climbed from there are nowadays it is not usually used as a camp site either. Instead base camp is placed either by Refugio Peru, laguna 69 or quebrada Ancosh depending on objective.

                                                    Refugio Peru
                                                    Refugio Peru

                                                    Together with Quebrada Ishinca, Refugio Peru area is the most popular camp site in Cordillera Blanca. Few shorter routes on Pisco (Oeste) can be climbed directly from the base camp, while other objectives from this camp generally require at least one high camp, the location of which depends on the targeted objective. From these high camps there are host of available routes, mostly around D-TD.

                                                    Main draw here is the easily accessible climb of Pisco Oeste SW ridge, which is likely the most frequented route in Cordillera Planca. SW face has also several short but technical ice/mixed routes that can be climbed directly from base camp. A rare commodity in Cordillera Blanca. Approach can be made shorter to both by placing high camp at 4800 on the moraines (1,5-3h from Refugio Peru).

                                                    For Huandoy Sur the camp is placed under the face. For Norte and Este from East the usual campsite is below the east face of Norte. For Este from north as well as some climbs in Pisco peaks the camp site is on the quebrada Parón side, close to col Huandoy Este - Pisco Oeste.

                                                      Huandoy East side

                                                      East side of Huandoy group is accessed from Refugio Peru following Pisco Oeste normal route at first to moraine camp. The camp could be placed at moraine camp site of Pisco Oeste (4900m) but is still too far away from most of the routes and parties, therefore most steer to glacier on the left and place the camp on the glacier. Most common location is probably somewhere below the East face of Huandoy Norte (~5200m, 3-4h from Pisco moraine camp).

                                                      From the camp below East face of Huandoy Norte, glacier plateau at 5800m between Sur, Oeste and Norte can be gained through 45-degree snow . From this camp it is possible to climb both Huandoy Oeste and Norte on a single day and Sur the next day.

                                                      For the NE face of Huandoy Sur, it is shorter to gain the glacier directly and place the camp under the face (~5200m, 5-6h from Refugio Peru).

                                                        Huandoy Este North

                                                        The camp is located on the glacier below the north face of Huandoy Este on the Quebrada Paron side. The access is the easiest from Refugio Peru following Pisco Oeste SW ridge route to the col between Huandoy Este and Pisco and getting to the camp from there. The same camp be reached from the Chacracocha camp on Quebrada Paron. The same camp gives access also to SW Ridge, SW slopes and NE arista of Pisco Oeste and SW side of Pisco Este. By venturing somewhat further into Quebrada Paron, north side climbs on Pisco Este can also be reached from this camp.

                                                          Quebrada Demanda
                                                          Laguna 69

                                                          Laguna 69 is very popular among trekkers and climbers visiting the camp as acclimatizations hike. Far fewer come to this camp located immediately below south face of Chacrarajus to climb. The reason for that is that Yanapaccha Norte aside, all routes are highly technical. The obvious and by far the most coveted goals from this camp are the south faces of Chacraraju Easte and Este. Both have several routes but their difficult keep the number of ascents at bay. Usually camp is placed directly under the face, 2-3h from laguna 69.

                                                          Additionally from this camp Pisco peaks can be climbed; Este from south and East, and Oeste from east (including NE and SE ridges). While Pisco peaks are often considered easy this is very much not the case from this side.

                                                            Yanapaccha moraine camp

                                                            Yanapaccha moraine camp is reached by following the path to Laguna 69 until roughly half way, then climbing towards east and placing the camp by the glacier (~4900-5000m). The camp is used only to climb Yanapaccha, but as it very popular climb, you'll probably find other climbers there. However the camp is nowhere near is crowded as Refugio Peru. Normal route aside, there are not many alternatives from this camp. The face is rather uniform, so different lines are likely not to be too different. That being said, traverse from main summit along South ridge to SE summit should be viable according to Bohórquez.

                                                              Portachuelo de Llanganuco

                                                              Camp site by lagunas Morococha, very close to the road. South side of Yanapaccha (D) and NW side of Chopocalqui Norte (TD) are the only climbs from the camp. The same climbs can be reached also directly from quebrada Ancosh, but from there approach is longer and involves greater altitude gain.

                                                                Quebrada Ancosh

                                                                Quebarada Ancosh is located due south of Cebollopampa and used to access climbs on Chopocalqui Norte, Chopicalcui, Huascarán Sur and Huascarán Norte. If climbing 6000m peak from Quebrada Llanganuco is the goal, then SW ridge of Chopicalqui is the easiest means to do so and accordingly popular. Any climb on the either of the Huascarán peaks from quebrada Ancosh is demanding proposition. Huascarán Norte is rockier and more prominent than higher Sur from this side.

                                                                For Chopicalqui the most common climb is along SW ridge with high camps are placed at 4800m on moraine (3-5h from the road) and col at 5600 (2-4h from moraine camp). The other main route on Chopicalqui is much more difficult NW ridge via North summit. There are several other routes on the face between the two which join either one of the ridges before reaching the summit.

                                                                Technically easiest way to climb either of the Huascaráns would be to gain la Garganta col (6010) between the peaks from moraine camp at 5025m (12h) and join the normal routes from there. However, east glacier is broken and threatened by seracs and avalanches. Safer, but more difficult, way of climbing Sur from Ancosh would be NE ridge or one of the routes joining it which avoids the east ice fall.

                                                                Huascarán Norte is rockier and more prominent than higher Sur from this side. Both NE and North faces have classic big mixed routes. NE face is easier of the two and more mixed in nature. It is climbed from quebrada Ancosh at TD+-ED.

                                                                The routes on the north face of Huascarán Norte are climbed from the camp directly below the north face (5200m). It can be reached by traversing from Quebrada Ancosh (as for Huascarán Norte NE Ridge), from the road opposite Cebollopampa (4-5h from the road) or gaining it directly from the road between Llanganuco lakes. All of the routes are very difficult involving significant sections of difficult rock climbing, and often aid. Most famous route on the face is classic Paragot.

                                                                  East side

                                                                  Areas located to the east side of watershed are seldom visited. Shortest access is from Pomapampa located to the East of massif either via Quebrada Jancapampa or Quebrada Janacollpa. Access is also possible from Quebrada Alpamayo via Cara-Cara and Mesapata passes to Quebrada Tayapampa (laguna Pucacocha and lagunas Safina). Due to limited number of climbers and trekkers, hiring arrieros and burros may be challenging; not only because of language barrier (Quechue is often spoken on the east side; Spanish is not necessarily understood)

                                                                  • Pomabamba-8.818158-77.4589352948Main city on the eastern side of Santa Cruz massif. Easiest access is from Huaraz by bus through quebrada Llanganuco and Punta Olympia.
                                                                  • Yanama-9.010894-77.4917223400
                                                                    Connections:
                                                                    • from Huaraz: Access from Huaraz by buss through Llanganuco valley.
                                                                    • to quebrada Huaripampa: via Colcabamba & Huaripampa to quebrada Huaripampa.

                                                                  Quebrada Tayapampa

                                                                  Quebrada Taypampa is probably the most important of the valleys located to the east of Santa Cruz massif. There's a road to the valley to lower Safina lake (laguna Safina Baja, 4247m) from the east side. From there on, the upper part of the valley is divided in two smaller valleys by the long NW ridge of Pucajirca Oeste II.

                                                                  The eastern fork can be used to access northern climbs of Pucajirca Oeste, Central and Norte. Laguna Safina is the natural camp site in this valley.

                                                                  The western fork of the upper valley is surrounded by Tayapampa, Janrcarurish, NE side of Alpamayo, North side of Pucarashta and NW side of Pucajirca Oeste. Lagunas Pucacocha and Quitaracsa are located in the valley, the former usually used as a camp site.

                                                                  • lagunas Safina (Laguna Safina Baja)-8.83987-77.6217564247
                                                                    Connections:
                                                                    • from Popapampa: through Quebrada Jancapampa and Quebrada Yanajanca.
                                                                    • from Cashapampa: through Quebrada de los Cedros, and Quebrada Alpamayo via Cara Cara pass (4830m) and Mesapata (4460m).
                                                                  • laguna Pucacocha-8.85768-77.6323134512
                                                                    Connections:
                                                                    • from Laguna Safina
                                                                  • laguna Quitaracsa-8.865737-77.6380634630
                                                                    Connections:
                                                                    • from Laguna Safina
                                                                  Lagunas Safina
                                                                    Laguna Pucacocha & Quitaracsa

                                                                      Quebrada Jancapampa

                                                                      Quebrada Jancapampa located to the west of Pomapampa and NE of Santa Cruz massif. The valley can be used to access east sides of Pucajirca peaks, Pucrapucraraju, Rinrijirca and north side of Taulliraju.

                                                                      Quebrada Yanajanca is a northern side valley of upper quebrada Jancapampa. The valley gives access to NE side of Pucajirca Norte I, II and III. Laguna Sactaycocha (4056m) is the most popular camp site in the valley.

                                                                      • Quebrada Jancapampa
                                                                        Connections:
                                                                        • from Pomapampa
                                                                      • laguna Sactaycocha-8.828166-77.5719744056
                                                                        Connections:
                                                                        • from Pomapampa: Accessed from Pomapampa through Quebrada Jancapampa. Laguna Sactaycocha (4056m) is likely the most popular camp site.
                                                                      Quebrada Jancapampa
                                                                        Quebrada Yanajanca

                                                                          Quebrada Tuctubamba

                                                                          Located to the east of taulliraju and NE of quebrada Huaripampa.

                                                                          • laguna Tuctubamba-8.894569-77.5387574300

                                                                          Quebrada Huaripampa

                                                                          Quebrada Huaripampa can be accessed from Quebrada Santa Cruz through Punta Union Pass. Alternative access would be from Yanama located to the east of Cordillera Blanca (access from Huaraz by buss through Llanganuco valley).

                                                                          • Lagunas Morococha-8.915599-77.5753214580Not to be mixed with laguna Morococha located immediately to the east of Portachuelo de Llanganuco.
                                                                          • Alto del Pucaraju (laguna Huecrococha)-8.918185-77.5532264650
                                                                          • Quebrada Paria-8.963589-77.5892264000Side valley of Quebrada Huaripampa, located to the East of Piramide de Garcilaso and north of Chacraraju.
                                                                            Connections:
                                                                            • from quebrada Santa Cruz: via Punta Union Pass.
                                                                            • from Yanamay
                                                                          • Laguna Tintacocha-8.981053-77.5802994580Located in Quebrada Ranincuray, a small side valley of Quebrada Huaripampa.
                                                                          Quebrada Ranincuray

                                                                          Quebrada Ranincuray is side valley towards west from the lower quebrada Huaripampa. laguna Tintacocha is the main campsite in the valley. The valley is accessed to climb Chacraraju Este from the east.

                                                                            Quebrada Paria

                                                                            Western side valley of central quebrada Huaripampa. The west border of the valley is formed by east faces Millisraju, Paron, Piramide de Garcilaso, NW side of Chacrarju Oeste and north side of Chacraraju Este. Estern border of the valley is formed by very long NE ridge of Chacraraju este.

                                                                              Upper quebrada Huaripampa & Alto del Pucaraju

                                                                              Upper part of quebrada Huaripampa, just to the east of quebrada Santa Cruz and Punta Union pass.

                                                                                Quebrada Morococha

                                                                                • Laguna Morococha-9.047429-77.586054550
                                                                                  Connections:
                                                                                  • from Huaraz: From Huaraz by buss trhough quebrada Llanganuco and Portachuelo de Llanganuco.

                                                                                  Central Cordillera Blanca

                                                                                  West side

                                                                                  • Musho-9.168365-77.6741253050
                                                                                    Connections:
                                                                                    • from Huaraz: 1-2h by bus.
                                                                                  • Carhuaz-9.28206-77.6472992645
                                                                                  • Hualcan-9.259273-77.6160053100
                                                                                  • Vicos-9.333897-77.5497693100

                                                                                  Musho

                                                                                  South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascarán (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascarán Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. For normal routes the starting point is the village of Musho that is accessed from Huaraz via village of Mancas. Base camp is usually at 4150m. From there a col between the summits is reached (high camp Garganta, 5980m).

                                                                                  • Musho BC (BC Raimondi)-9.1338-77.64714200Can be bypassed by parties already acclimatized. Burros don't go higher.
                                                                                  • Refugio Huascarán (Huascaran moraine camp)-9.137796359-77.6348397514675
                                                                                    Connections:
                                                                                    • from Musho: 4h from Musho, 1h from Musho BC. (true)
                                                                                  • Glacier camp (Camp 1)-9.1285-77.62275300
                                                                                  • Garganta (Camp 2)-9.115-77.6185900

                                                                                    Quebrada Ulta

                                                                                    Ulta valley lies between Huascarán in the north and Chinchey in the south. Quebrada Ulta is located directly to the east of Carhuaz. On the north side of valley lie Huascarán Sur (6768m), Chopicalqui (6354m) and Contrahierbas (6036m). South side has less famous peaks like Ulta (5875m) and Hualcn Este (6125m) and Oeste (6104m). Access to the valley is easy as there's a road along the entire length of the valley. Take a bus from Huaraz to Carhuaz and further towards Chacas on the east side of Cordillera Blanca (3h from Huaraz to Chopicalqui trailhead). When the road to Chacas starts to climb up from the valley, follow the main valley to the Quebrada Artesa (lagos Artesa, 4400m, 0,5 days from the road). From there trek via laguna Yanayacu. Camp at 500m on the glacier edge. The valley is mainly visited by climbers going to SE Ridge of Chopicalqui.

                                                                                    In the north, Huascarán totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m. East and SE ridges are accessible from Quabrada Ulta in the south. Both of the latter are difficult with Se Ridge (TD-, 1350m/2050m 4-5days round trip from Huaraz) being slightly easier than East face direct (TD, 80°, uiaa V, 950m).

                                                                                    Northern part of Chinchey group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is probably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha).

                                                                                    • quebrada Ulta4550
                                                                                    • Laguna Artesa
                                                                                    • Laguna Yanayacu
                                                                                    • quebrada MataraWestern side valley of quebrada Ulta, that branches off before the road starts to ascent to Punta Olimpica.

                                                                                      Hualcan BC

                                                                                      by laguna Cochca in Quebrada Hualcan

                                                                                      • Laguna Cochca (Hualcan BC)-9.216999-77.5458814528
                                                                                        Connections:
                                                                                        • from Carhuaz: Via Hualcan (3100m).

                                                                                        East side

                                                                                        • Yanama-9.010894-77.4917223400
                                                                                          Connections:
                                                                                          • from Huaraz: Access from Huaraz by buss through Llanganuco valley.
                                                                                          • to quebrada Huaripampa: via Colcabamba & Huaripampa to quebrada Huaripampa.
                                                                                        • Chacas-9.162603-77.366953359Main city on the East side of central Cordillera Blanca.

                                                                                        Quebrada Ichic/Ulta

                                                                                        Valley located to SW of Yanama. Punta Yanayacy (4850) at the southern end of the valley connects quebrada Ichic/Ulta with quebrada Ulta located on the west side of the main chain.

                                                                                        • quebrada Ichic/Ulta4100
                                                                                          Connections:
                                                                                          • from Yanama: From the road between Portachuelo de Llanganuco and Yanama. 3-4h.
                                                                                          • quebrada Ulta: via Paso Yanauacu. 3-4h.

                                                                                          Quebrada Cancaraca

                                                                                          Upper Cancaraca is divided in two by East ridge of Ulta. Quebrada Cancaraca Chica is located to the north of the ridge (NE side of Ulta) and Cancaraca Grande is located on the south side of the ridge. Punta Olimpica (4890m) connects quebrada Cancaraca Chica with quebrada Ulta in the west. lagunas Cancaracá in Chica is likely the most popular camp site in the valley.

                                                                                          • lagunas Cancaracá-9.142986-77.502884634

                                                                                          Honda - Rurec

                                                                                          Nevado Huantsán (6395 m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the western Andes, Peru. Credit: Bas Wallet,  Shot on 2012-08-09 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.Licensed under: CC BY 2.0.
                                                                                          Nevado Huantsán (6395 m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the western Andes, Peru. Credit: Bas Wallet, Shot on 2012-08-09 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.Licensed under: CC BY 2.0.

                                                                                          Southern part of the range consists of several massifs and valleys located to the south of Quebrada Honda, close to city of Huaraz. Two main groups of the area are Chinchey and Huantsan with both having several peaks rising above 6000m altitude. Close proximity to Huaraz make the areas relatively popular, particularly Ishinca valley is very popular. There are number of popular peaks from the valley, particularly Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca. On the other hand, Palcaraju, Chinchey and Huantsan are among the least visited 6000m peaks in the range. Southernmost ranges Yanamaray, Pongas, Raria and Caullaraju are lower and far less glaciated. Most of the peaks in these areas have non-technical ascents that can climbed as day trips from the valleys.

                                                                                          West side

                                                                                          • Collon-9.391399-77.4304393300m
                                                                                          • Pashpa-9.37785-77.5305823500m
                                                                                          • Pitec-9.504725-77.4421623800 4450 4950 4150
                                                                                            Connections:
                                                                                            • from Huaraz: Huaraz - Pitec. Road end 3km further up, 1,5h from Huaraz by car. It is possible to walk all the way from Huaraz but it adds another 15,5km. 15km. 1,5h by car, 5-8h by foot.
                                                                                            • laguna Churup
                                                                                            • to Quebrada Quilcayhuanca (true)
                                                                                            • to Laguna Tullpacocha: 4150m. 11,5km, 5,5h from road end.
                                                                                            • to Quebrada Cayesh: 4200m. 11,5km, 5,5h from road end.
                                                                                          • Macashca
                                                                                            Connections:
                                                                                            • to Laguna Muami Huanusca
                                                                                            • to laguna Rajucolta 5-6h from Macashca.
                                                                                            • to laguna Ahuac
                                                                                            • to Laguna Tururucocha
                                                                                          • Olleros-9.662269-77.4657153450

                                                                                          Quebrada Honda

                                                                                          Quebrada Honda is long curved valley dividing southern part of Cordillera Blanca from northern part. The road in the valley greatly facilitates the access to upper valley which would otherwise be very long. There are numerous side valleys on both sides of the valley.

                                                                                          North side of the valley with Pachharaju, Atlante, Copap and Perlilla consist mostly of rather less dramatic peaks with moderate altitude on Cordillera Blanca standards. Peaks further north include Copa Sur (6188m) and Norte (6173m), the highest peaks accessible from quebrada Honda on its northern side.

                                                                                          Southwest side of the upper valley provides access to most interesting climbs from Honda valley. First off, quebrada Cancahua (with Mina Arequipa) leads to Esparta, Akilpo peaks and Tocllaraju, albeit the latter is seldom climbed from this side. Next parallel side valley is quebrada Pacliash with access to Tocllaraju and Palcaraju. Laguna Pucaranra in the upper valley is surrounded by three 6000m giants: Palcaraju, Pucaranra and multiple summits of Chinchey.

                                                                                          • BC Legiacocha-9.286804-77.5071724706
                                                                                            Connections:
                                                                                            • from Vicos: Huaraz - Marcara - Chancas - Vicos (3100m).
                                                                                            • to Tocllaraju glacier camp
                                                                                          • BC Paccharuri (laguna Paccharuri)4450
                                                                                            Connections:
                                                                                            • from quebrada Honda: Branchess of from quebrada Honda at 4150m (10km from Vicos). 7km.
                                                                                          BC Legiacocha

                                                                                          Quebrada Legiacocha is a open valley outside of Quebrada Honda proper.

                                                                                            BC Paccharuri

                                                                                            Important side valley towards north from the lower part of quebrada Honda with Base camp by laguna Paccharuri.

                                                                                            • Copa SurSE face
                                                                                            • Copa NorteSouth Ridge
                                                                                            • Bayoraju5460mSE ridgePD?
                                                                                            • PaccharajuSE ridge
                                                                                            • PaccharajuSW slopes
                                                                                            • Paccharaju Norte ISW face
                                                                                            • Paccharaju Norte IISouth face
                                                                                            Rinconada

                                                                                            Below Portachuelo de la Honda in main valley. 20km from Vicos, ~3900m.

                                                                                              Portachuelo de la Honda

                                                                                              Col at 4780m between Atlante (5465m) in the west and Portachuelo (5340m) in the east. Connects quebrada Honda with quebrada Illauro.

                                                                                                Mina Arequipa

                                                                                                in Quebrada Cancahua. Branchess south from Quebrada Honda at ~4100m.

                                                                                                  Quebrada Minoyo

                                                                                                  aka Vinoyapampa

                                                                                                    Quebrada Huichganga

                                                                                                    Mina Tomalamano. Short ascent towards north from quebrada Minoyo.

                                                                                                      laguna Pacliashcocha

                                                                                                      Side valley of Quebrada Honda, located to NE of Tocllaraju and NW of Palcaraju.

                                                                                                        laguna Pucaranracocha

                                                                                                        4350m. 30km from Vicos.

                                                                                                          Quebrada Yanasilca

                                                                                                            Quebrada Akillpo

                                                                                                            Valley between Quebrada Honda in the north and Quebrada Ishinca in the south leading to Laguna Akilpo at the end of the valley (~4700m). Northern border of the valley is formed by lower non-glaciated peaks. At the end of the valley rise two Akilpo peaks and Tocllaraju. Souther border of the valley valley consists of Urus peaks. It is possible to ascend from the valley to Tocllaraju glacier camp for access to Tocllaraju west side climbs, although Ishinca valley is more common approach for it. No routes on either of the Akilpo peaks are listed from laguna Akillpo in either Sharman, Johnson or Tome guidebooks.

                                                                                                            • laguna Akilpo-9.343425-77.4197534700Main base in Akillpo valley.
                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                              • from Marcara: Huaraz - Marcara - Chancas - Vicos (3100m). From Vicos 8km further along the road, then 10km trek to laguna Akillpo. 10km.
                                                                                                              • to Tocllaraju glacier camp

                                                                                                            Ishinca valley

                                                                                                            To the south of Quebrada Honda lies shorter Ishinca valley. The valley is surrounded by Urus peaks in the north, Tocllaraju, Palcaraju Oeste and Ishinca in the east and Ranrapalca, Ochsapalca and Yanhyaraju on the south. The valley is easily accessed from Huaraz in a day via villages of Paltay and Collon (3350m) or Pashpa (3650m). National park fee needs to be paid along the way. Due to ease of access and wide variety of climbs available, Ishinca valley is very popular destination among the climbers. It is probably the best place in Cordillera Blanca for climbers with limited time or experience and it is also regularly visited by commercial expeditions.

                                                                                                            The valley offers wide selection of different types of objectives for different tastes. Urus and Ishinca are very popular peaks both having rather non-technical ascents directly from the base camp. Tocllaraju is considerably harder than Urus and Ishinca normal routes, offering classic mid grade ridge route on its normal route and more difficult face climb on its west face. Ranrapalca NE and north ascents are also quite popular, being a notch more difficult and bigger than climbs on Tocllaraju. Palcaraju peaks are far less climbed than the previous peaks altogether and particularly from Ishinca side, although SW Ridge and south faces can be approached from Ishinca. Ochsalpalca is also usually climbed from quebrada Llaca, north side facing Ishinca sees much less traffic. Aside classic snow, ice and mixed climbs, the valley has also some rock climbs, most importantly Hatun Ulloc.

                                                                                                            • Ishinca BC-9.368333-77.4255564350Main base in Ishinca valley.
                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                              • from Collon: National Park fee. 15 km, 5-8h.
                                                                                                              • from Pashpa: National Park fee. 11 km, 4-6h. (true)
                                                                                                              • to Tocllaraju glacier camp
                                                                                                              • to laguna Ishinca
                                                                                                              • to Ishinca-Ranrapalca col
                                                                                                              • to Quebrada Ancosh
                                                                                                            • Tocllaraju glacier camp-9.349946-77.4061065000/5300glacier camp below Tocllaraju west face.
                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                              • from Ishinca BC 3-4h from Ishinca BC.
                                                                                                              • to laguna Akillpo
                                                                                                            • Laguna Ishinca-9.390426-77.4156334800
                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                              • from Ishinca BC
                                                                                                              • to Ishinca-Ranrapalca col
                                                                                                            • Ishinca-Ranrapalca col-9.400037-77.4112565350
                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                              • from Ishinca BC 3-4h.
                                                                                                              • from Laguna Ishinca
                                                                                                              • to Ranrapalca North face
                                                                                                              • to Laguna Perolcocha
                                                                                                            • Laguna Uraycocha-9.391399-77.430439
                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                              • from Ishinca BC 3h.
                                                                                                            • Laguna Mullaca-9.430435-77.4759294606
                                                                                                            NP entrance

                                                                                                            National park entrance at ~4000m is the location of some rock walls, most important of them being Hatun Ulloc.

                                                                                                              Ishinca BC

                                                                                                              Located at 4350m at the valley floor by Refugio Ishinca. Urus and Ishinca normal routes are regularly climbed as day trips from the main base camp, Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca ascents are usually climbed with one high camp closer to the peaks. Those aiming to climb Palcaraju from Ishinca valley usually gain Ishinca-Palcaraju col either directly from Ishinca BC, from laguna Ishinca following more or less Ishinca NW ridge or from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col by traversing over Ishinca.

                                                                                                                Tocllaraju glacier camp

                                                                                                                High camp on glacier shelf either at 5000m or at 5300m, NE of Ishinca BC. Most commonly accessed from Ishinca BC in Quebrada Ishinca, but could also be accessed from Quebrada Akillpo via laguna Akilpo. All common routes to Tocllaraju are climbed from this camp.

                                                                                                                  Laguna Ishinca

                                                                                                                  Located along the path from Ishinca BC to Ishinca-Ranrapalca col at ~4800m. It is not commonly used as a campsite as Ishinca NW Ridge can be done in a day roundtrip directly from Ishinca BC and Ranrapalca routes are better started from a camp higher up in Ishinca-Ranrapalca col or from a camp below Ranrapalca North face.

                                                                                                                    Ishinca-Ranrapalca col

                                                                                                                    A col between Ranrapalca NE and Ishinca SW ridges at ~5350m. Access from Quebrada Ishinca via laguna Ishinca or from laguna Perolcocha in quebrada Cojup (in south). Camp directly in a col is well suited for Ranrapalca NE routes, for north face a camp directly below Ranrapalca north face is usually used (access from below Ishinca-Ranrapalca col by crossing the gap in Ranrapalca North Spur (3-4h from Ishinca BC).

                                                                                                                      Laguna Uraycocha

                                                                                                                      Next side valley to the west from laguna Ishinca valley.

                                                                                                                        Quebrada Ancosh

                                                                                                                        Located outside of Ishinca valley, to the south of it and immediately to the west of Vallunaraju. Laguna Mullaca (4606m) is the camp site here.

                                                                                                                          Quebrada Llaca

                                                                                                                          Short Quebrada Llaca (AGMP hut at 4474m by laguna Llaca) is located directly above Huaraz. It is the starting point for popular acclimatization climbs on Vallunaraju (5686m). Normal ascent follows North Ridge (AD-, II, 550m). Much more difficult Ocshapalca (5881m) is climbed from the same camp. Steep south face of Ochsapalca has difficult ice routes (ED, 650m). Ranrapalca (6162m) is not commonly climbed from this valley.

                                                                                                                          • AGMP hut-9.436743-77.4449014474
                                                                                                                            Connections:
                                                                                                                            • from Huaraz: Huaraz - Willcahuain - Llaca. 1,5-2h by car. 3-4h. (true)
                                                                                                                            • from Vallunaraju high camp: 5130m.
                                                                                                                            • to Ochsapalca high camp: 5000m.

                                                                                                                            Quabrada Cojup

                                                                                                                            Quabrada Cojup provides access for three 6000 giants: Palcaraju, Pucaranra and Ranrapalca. However, Ranrapalca South side is much less visited than easier north side and Palcaraju and Pucaranra are among the lesser known 6000 peaks in Cordillera Blanca. Lower and non-technical Huapi is in all likelihood the most climbed peak from Quebrada Cojup.

                                                                                                                            • Laguna Palcacocha-9.395930-77.3799714500
                                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                                              • from Huaraz 14km, 5-6h from the road end.
                                                                                                                              • from Quebrada Acoshcocha
                                                                                                                              • to laguna Perolcocha: 4950m.
                                                                                                                              • Pucaranja-Palcaraju col
                                                                                                                              • Ishinca-Ranrapalca col: via laguna Perolcocha.
                                                                                                                            • Quebrada Acoshcocha
                                                                                                                            • Laguna Perolcocha-9.407912-77.3988534950
                                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                                              • from Laguna Palcacocha
                                                                                                                              • to Ishinca-Ranrapalca col
                                                                                                                            • Pucaranja-Palcaraju col-9.379502-77.360358
                                                                                                                              Connections:
                                                                                                                              • from laguna Palcacocha
                                                                                                                            laguna Palcacocha

                                                                                                                            Main base camp in quebrada Cojup. 4500m, 5-6h.

                                                                                                                              Quebrada Acoshcocha
                                                                                                                                laguna Perolcocha

                                                                                                                                4950m, 1-2h from Palcacocha. From the camp access to Ishinca-Ranrapalca col and further to quebrada Ishinca is possible.

                                                                                                                                  Pucaranra-Palcaraju col

                                                                                                                                    Quebrada Quilcayhuanca

                                                                                                                                    Large Quebrada Quilcayhuanca is divided in two is the upper end with Quebrada Tullparaju forming the left hand fork and Quebrada Cayesh forming the right hand fork. There are base camps in both of the forks and several high camps depending on the objective.

                                                                                                                                    The valley is surrounded by Churup (5493m), Huamanripa (5258m) and Jatunmontenpuneu (5421m) in the north and Pucaranra (6156m), Chinchey (6309m), Tullparaju (5787m), Chopiraju (5518m) and Andatnte (5518m) in the east. Its side valley Quebrada Cayesh is surrounded by Cayesh (5721m) in the east and San Juan (5843m) and Maparaju (5326m) in the south. Maparaju (SW and W slopes, F) and San Juan (NW Ridge (normal route), AD+, 65°), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents. Despite their height, Chinchey (West Face to North Ridge PD+/AD-, 55°, 3-4 days round trip from meadow camp) and Pucaranra are relatively seldom climbed.

                                                                                                                                    • Laguna Churup Superior (Laguna Churupita)-9.478101-77.4230584580m
                                                                                                                                    • Laguna Tullpacocha-9.422984-77.3461534300m
                                                                                                                                      Connections:
                                                                                                                                      • from Pitec road end (3850m) 11,5km, 5,5h from road end.
                                                                                                                                      • to Laguna Cuchillacocha 6-8h from the road end. 3-4h, 500m altitude meters from Quilcayhuanca valley floor.
                                                                                                                                      • to Pucaranra-Chinchey col: 5500m. 5,5-7h.
                                                                                                                                      • to Quebrada Cayesh: 4200m. 2h?.
                                                                                                                                    • laguna Cuchillacocha-9.413162-77.3555094625
                                                                                                                                    • Pucaranra-Chinchey col-9.385641-77.3421195500
                                                                                                                                      Connections:
                                                                                                                                      • from laguna Tullpacocha: 5500m. 5,5-7h.
                                                                                                                                    • Quebrada Cayesh-9.448892-77.3361974200
                                                                                                                                      Connections:
                                                                                                                                      • from Pitec roadend (3850m) 11,5km, 5,5h from road end.
                                                                                                                                      • from Cayesh glacier camp: 5100m. 4-5h from Q. Quilcayhuanca where Q. Cayesh branches off.
                                                                                                                                      • from San Juan moraine camp: 4800m. 3-4h from the valley floor.
                                                                                                                                      • to Laguna Tullpacocha: 4150m. 2h?.
                                                                                                                                    laguna Churup

                                                                                                                                    Piqtoresgue laguna Churup is popular day trip from Huaraz. Sole climbing objective is mixed SW face of Churup Oeste, having several relatively short steep routes.

                                                                                                                                      Quebrada Tullparaju
                                                                                                                                      laguna Tullpacocha
                                                                                                                                        laguna Cuchillacocha
                                                                                                                                          Pucaranra-Chinchey col
                                                                                                                                            Quebrada Cayesh

                                                                                                                                            The most striking peak of Quebrada Cayesh is its namesake with several very difficult routes. More moderate Maparaju and San Juan are probably climbed more often, but neither of them is nearly as popular as Vallunaraju or peaks in Ishinca valley.

                                                                                                                                              Quebrada Shallap

                                                                                                                                              Quebrada Shallpa is surrounded Quimnarumi, San Juan, Huantsan, Huamasraju Este (Huamashpunta) and Huamashraju. The valley is one of the possible approaches for normal route on Huantsan, but Rajucolta is likely more used for that purpose. Base camp by laguna Shallap at the end of the valley below SW face of San Juan.

                                                                                                                                              • Quebrada Shallap-9.492916-77.3573114300
                                                                                                                                                Connections:
                                                                                                                                                • from Jancu road end: 15km, 1h by car from Huaraz to Jancu roadend. 8km, 4h. (true)

                                                                                                                                                Quebrada Rajucolta

                                                                                                                                                Quebrada Rajucolta provides access to two very different mountains, relatively easy Cashan (5716m) and extremely difficult Huantsan (6369m). Even though Huantsan, the highest peak of southern Cordillera Blanca, is located close to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju. Laguna Rajucolta at the end of the valley is base for most ascents from the valley, particularly those on Huantsan peaks and most routes on Rurec. For ascents from the lower valley, particularly on Huamashraju and Cashan Oeste, are probably more conveniently climber from a camp lower down the valley.

                                                                                                                                                • Laguna Muami Huanusca (Laguna Huami-Malana)-9.53304-77.4006564630
                                                                                                                                                  Connections:
                                                                                                                                                  • from Jancu
                                                                                                                                                  • from Pariac
                                                                                                                                                • Laguna Rajucolta (laguna Rajucoltacocha)-9.5272-77.3495014230
                                                                                                                                                • Laguna Ahuac-9.528723-77.3340514700
                                                                                                                                                • Laguna Tururucocha-9.558687-77.4064494262
                                                                                                                                                Laguna Muami Huanusca

                                                                                                                                                aka Laguna Huami-Malana. Short valley located to the west of Huamashraju, at the western end of mountain chain. Huamashraju climbs from the west are the only climbs from this valley.

                                                                                                                                                  Laguna Rajucolta
                                                                                                                                                    Laguna Ahuac
                                                                                                                                                      Laguna Tururucocha

                                                                                                                                                      Laguna Misacocha and laguna Tururacocha (4262m) are located to the west of Cashan Oeste and serve as a base for western ascents of it, more or less opposite of Laguna Muami Huanusca (to the south of quebrada Rajucolta).

                                                                                                                                                        Quebrada Cashan

                                                                                                                                                        Short valley located between Quebrada Rajucolta in the north and quebrada Rurec in the south. The valley is surrounded by Cashan Oeste, Castan Este and Shaqsha. Smaller valley further south around laguna Shaqsha is a better location for climbing Shaqsha. La Iglesia Huaripampa Corazón (church) is Huaripampa is where you start walking to Shaqsha.

                                                                                                                                                        • Laguna Cashan-9.574937-77.3745634420
                                                                                                                                                        • laguna Shaqsha-9.36946-76.871354350
                                                                                                                                                          Connections:
                                                                                                                                                          • from Olleros: 4h from Huaripampa (La Iglesia Huaripampa Corazón) with burros.
                                                                                                                                                        • Shaqsha high camp-9.592372-77.3688135200Alternatively camp can be placed further down by glacier moraine 4900m. Not accessible to burros. Water not readily available.
                                                                                                                                                          Connections:
                                                                                                                                                          • from Olleros (true)
                                                                                                                                                          • from laguna Shaqsha: From laguna Shaqsha roughly 4h to high camp on glacier below Shaqsha South Ridge (5200m). Rocky terrain with some easy glacier (F/PD).

                                                                                                                                                          Quebrada Rurec

                                                                                                                                                          Quebrada Rurec is visited (from Olleros) to climb Shaqsha (5703m), Cashan (5713m), Rurec (5700m) or Uruashraju (5722m). Lower flanks are reported to have some of the Cordillera Blanca's best concentrations of granite formations. Punta Numa (5179m) is likely the best known of the rock peaks. The valley is relatively quiet and sees much less traffic than the popular northern quebradas. There are two quebrada Rurec's, one located to the east of Huantsan and the one to the west. Western quebrada Rurec is the described here and more important to climbers.

                                                                                                                                                          • Quebrada Rurec
                                                                                                                                                          • Laguna Tararhua-9.569521-77.3308754500
                                                                                                                                                            Connections:
                                                                                                                                                            • from Olleros 25km, 1000m ascent.
                                                                                                                                                          • Quebrada Pumahuacanca
                                                                                                                                                          Quebrada Rurec

                                                                                                                                                          Shaqsha - Cashan Este - Rurec - Urusashnraju

                                                                                                                                                          Quebrada Rurec

                                                                                                                                                          Lower part of the valley.

                                                                                                                                                            Laguna Tararhua
                                                                                                                                                              Quebrada Pumahuacanca

                                                                                                                                                                East side

                                                                                                                                                                Acces the east side from readily from Catac via road through high pass of Cahuish (4500m).

                                                                                                                                                                • Chavin (Chavin de Huantar)-9.59161-77.1769213137
                                                                                                                                                                • Catac-9.802359-77.430663536

                                                                                                                                                                Quebrada Rurichinchey

                                                                                                                                                                Located to the east of the range

                                                                                                                                                                  Quebrada Rahuarushca

                                                                                                                                                                    Laguna Maparaju

                                                                                                                                                                      Laguna Tumarina

                                                                                                                                                                        Quebrada Huantsan

                                                                                                                                                                        From Chavin

                                                                                                                                                                          Southern groups

                                                                                                                                                                          Southernmost part consists of few groups with lower peaks and no large glaciers. Most of the ascents here are not too difficult and possible as day trips from the valleys. Pucaraju South face aside, few technical routes available. Busses make accessing these areas easy.

                                                                                                                                                                          • Olleros-9.662269-77.4657153450
                                                                                                                                                                          • Chavin (Chavin de Huantar)-9.59161-77.1769213137
                                                                                                                                                                          • Catac-9.802359-77.430663536
                                                                                                                                                                          • Pastoruri-9.897110-77.1850104830
                                                                                                                                                                            Connections:
                                                                                                                                                                            • from Huaraz: Via Catac. 70km, 3h.

                                                                                                                                                                          Quebrada Araranca

                                                                                                                                                                            Yanamarey valley

                                                                                                                                                                            Still further to the south, separated from the main group lies Yanamarey valley with the large lake of Querococha (-9.717263,-77.325597, @3980m). It is accessed from Catac along the road to Chavin by Querococha. The valley offers good acclimatization climbs of Yanamaray Norte (5237m) and Sur (5197). Also SE side Pucaraju (5322m) is possible from the valley (not to be confused with higher peak with the same name located in northern Cordillera Blanca). Contrary to most other peaks in this area, Pucaraju South face has several ice and mixed routes around 350m high and around TD in difficulty.

                                                                                                                                                                                Quebrada Cotush

                                                                                                                                                                                Cluster of peaks to the south of Olleros-Chavin road. Routes are generally easy and doable within a day from the valley. However, middle grade climbs are to be found on both East and West ridges of Pongas Sur I. Usual approach is from Catac. Main valleys of the group are quebrada Queshque and quebrada Pamparaju (laguna Pamparaju @4650m).

                                                                                                                                                                                  Quebrada Queshque

                                                                                                                                                                                  Western valley that reaches between southern and norther Pongas groups. Laguna Pamparaju is natural camp site.

                                                                                                                                                                                    Quebrada Raria

                                                                                                                                                                                    Group of lower peaks. Frequent tourist bus service to Pastoruri makes access easy. Main valley for accessing the peaks of Raria is Waiyaku.

                                                                                                                                                                                      Quebrada Pastoruri

                                                                                                                                                                                        Quebrada Huicsu

                                                                                                                                                                                          Quebrada Queñuaracra

                                                                                                                                                                                            Quebrada Quellish

                                                                                                                                                                                              Mina Tucujirca