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South America

General

Southern America is dominated by the chain of Andes that stretches from the southern tip of Argentina and Chile to the northern part of Columbia. Best known climbing areas are the mountains around Aconcagua and Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes and Patagonia in the southern end of the range.

Northern Andes of Venezuela, Columbia and Ecuador are divided into several ranges; Venezuealan Andes are concentrated around Sierra Nevada National Park, Columbian Andes consist of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the extreme north of the country, further south, the Eastern, Central, and Western Cordilleras are parallel north-south ranges. Eastern and Western Cordilleras continue through Ecuador as well. There are also several isolated volcanic peaks. Most popular climbing peaks are Chimborazo (6310m) and Cotopaxi (5897m) in Ecuador.

Peru is home to some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. These are high mountains with steep granite peaks, rising above icy ridges and twisted glaciers. The snow and ice on the ridges is often beautifully sculpted, carrying large and complex cornices. The Peruvian Andes are divided into ranges of Cordillera Blanca in the western (or coastal) part of Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Cordillera Central, Cordillera Occidental and Cordillera Oriental. Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash offer t?e most popular climbs, Huaraz in the more accessible Cordillera Blanca being the mecca of Andinism. Among the attractions are 5947m high picturesque Alpamayo that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world and the highest mountain of the Range, Huascaran. There are several other mighty mountains, such as Artesonraju, Taulliraju, Charcraraju and Tocllaraju. Cordillera Huayhuash resembles the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, although the peaks of Huayhuash are generally lower but technically more difficult. The highest peak in the area is Mount Yerupajá (6634m); followed by Yerupajá Chico (6121m); Jirishanca (6094m); Siulá Grande (6344m); Rondoy (5879m); Ninashanca (5807m) and Rasac (6017m).

Bolivia's most distinctive geographical feature is the Altiplano, a high plateau contained between Cordillera Occidental in the west and Cordillera Oriental in the east. The highest of Bolivian ranges is Cordillera Real on the north of Altiplano. Many of Bolivia's mountains are volcanoes, best known among the climbers being Illimaní­, Huayna Potosi and Nevado Samaja.

Chile's 4000 miles of ocean shore are lined with low coastal mountains, behind and to the east of which quickly rise the much higher Andes that form the border between Argentina and Chile. This is where the highest mountain and propably the best-known climbing destination of South America, Aconcagua (or Cerro Aconcagua 6962m), is located. It is one of the seven summits. Normal routes are non-technical, the main difficulty is the height.

The southernmost 1500km of Chile and Argentina are known as Patagonia. It is famous for its wild landscape and notorious for its horrible conditions. There are two rugged and legendary mountains in the Patagonia Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m). The latter of the two was once held as the most difficult mountain to climb.

Northern Andes

Western Cordillera

Western Cordillera include Chimborazo, the highest peak in Equador (6310m). Besides it, the main attraction for climbers is Illiniza with easy Norte (5116m) and moderately hard Sur (5305m, AD with ice up to 50°).

Eastern Cordillera

Eastern Cordillera includes classic glaciated volcanoes Cotopaxi (5897m), Tungurahua (F) and slightly more demanding Caymabe (PD (varies between F and AD depending on the conditions of last bbig crevasse), usually more demanding than Cotopaxi or Chimmborazo) and Antisana (PD). Perhaps the most interesting feature of the Eastern Cordillera is El Altar 5319m, the horseshow with several volcanic peaks. It is the only high peak in Eciador that is technically hard to climb (normal route AD/d with IV-V and 60°).

Isolated volcanoes

In addition to Cordilleras, Ecuador has three high isolated volcanoes: Reventador, Sumaco and Sangay. Sangay, located 40km south of El Altar is the most active volcano in Andes. The ascent of Saqngay is technically easy (PD?) but it is very dangerous due to volcanic eruptions.

Northern Andes of Venezuela, Columbia and Ecuador are divided into several ranges; Venezuealan Andes are concentrated around Sierra Nevada National Park, Columbian Andes consist of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the extreme north of the country, further south, the Eastern, Central, and Western Cordilleras are parallel north-south ranges. Eastern and Western Cordilleras continue through Ecuador as well. There are also several isolated volcanic peaks. By far the most popular climbing peaks are Chimborazo (6310m) and Cotopaxi (5897m) in Ecuador.

Ecuador is the main climbing attraction in northern Andes. Access is usually easy from Quito (many climbs are possible in a long weekend) and most popular areas have huts.

The mountains of Ecuador have a complicated weather pattern with two dry seasons; from June to July and December to January (neithor of which being completely dry). On some areas climbing is reasonable even at other times. March and May are to be avoided at all costs. Ecuador gets a lots of fresh snow. Eastern part of Ecuador is particularly affected by the proximity of Amazon, thus the area suffers a very wet climate.

Peru

Cordillera Blanca

The Cordillera Blanca ("White Range") liest just 100km east of the Pacific ocea. It is some 180 km long narrow chain of mountains running from north to south. It offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. The Cordillera Blanca contains more than 300 major summits, more than 31 of these rise over 6000 meters and further 30 are higher than 5700m. The highest peak, Huascaran offers fine climbing although it is one of the easiest 6000m peaks in the range.

Nearest major airport is Lima, from where it is 8h bus trip to Huaraz (3091m), located in a valley Callejón de Muaylos, is the mecca of Andinism. Most base camps in the Cordillera Blanca can be reached in a day from town in. For climbs in the northern Cordillera Blanca, Yungay (2550m) or Caraz further north in the valley (2250m, 2h from Huaraz by bus) may be more practical bases (both accessible from Huaraz by bus).

Northern Cordillera Blanca (Santa Cruz)

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. Here lies picturesque Alpamayo (5947m) that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world. Quitaraju (6036m) is located very close to Alpamayo (they share a high camp at 5300m). Other famous mountains include the namesake of the group, Santa Cruz Grande (6241m) and Taulliraju (5830m), located at the end of the Santa Cruz Valley.

Access is by car from Huaraz via Yungay and Caraz (2250m, 1,5-2h) in the main valley. From Caraz further to the north to the village of Cashapampa (2900m, 2 hours by bus from Caraz). Cashapampa is very commonly used as the entrance into the Santa Cruz and Alpamayo treks.

Most climbs are accessed from Quebrada Santa Cruz. Most popular climb of the area is picruresque Alpamayo. It is often referred to as the most beautiful mountain in the world and it is correspondingly popular. Alpamayo/Quitarajo Base Camp is located near Laguna Arhueycocha (4300m, 1,5 days trek from Cashapampa (2900m) through Santa Cruz valley). Except for the last two hours the route is equal to the popular Santa Cruz - Llanganuco - Trek. Very beautiful Taulliraju is located at the end of the Santa Cruz valley rising above the Inca pass of Punta Union (4750m). Although it is located very close to a popular trekking route is seldomly climbed due to its difficulty (all SW routes TD or more, north side is possibly easier but seldom visited). Punta Union pass provides access from Santa Cruz valley to Quebrada Huaripampa. Some climbs in the northern part of Huandoy group can also be reached from Santa Cruz Valley (Artesonraju north side, Caraz).

Quebrada Paccharuri is side valley of Quebrada Santa Cruz. It provides the shortest approach to Santra Cruz Grabde (south face). Base camp is customarily at 4000m (5-6h from Cashapampa).

Some climbs are also accessed from the north via Quebrada Alpamayo and Quebrada de los Cedros (Lago Jancarurish, 4300m, 3 days from Cashapampa) to the north of the group. It is possible to access Alpamayo col camp (5300m) from here). Also that valley is used to access to climb Santa Cruz from Lagos Yuraccocha (4600m) 32 trek from Cashapampa to Yuraccocha via Hualcayan (3200m) takes 2-3 days.

Huandoy Group

Huandoy group is located between Santa Cruz Valley in the north and Quebrada Llanganuco in the south. Both valleys are popular among the trekkers. Santa Cruz valley is accessed from Cashapampa (2900m, see Santa Cruz for details). Only few climbs of Huandoy group are covenient from Santa Cruz valley (Artesonraju north side, Caraz).

Smaller Paron valley is located to the south of Caraz group The valley is accessed by car from Caraz to Lago Paron (4185m, 33km, 1,5h from Caraz), from there three hours hike from Lago Paron to Artesoncocha (Lagos Paron choco, 4300m). Main climbs from the valley are Caraz I (6025m), north side of Huandoy (6395m, much longer than the normal routes from Quebrada Demanda), Pirmide de Garcilaso (5885m) and normal route of Artesonraju (6025m). The pyrammid shape of the latter may seem familier, as it is featured in the logo of Paramount Pictures. It is also possible to join normal route of Pisco (5752m) from the valley. Also la Esfinge (5325m) is accessible from Paron valley. It is the best known rock climb in Cordillera Blanca (1985 route is V 5.11 (uiiaa VI+,A1 or 5.10 C1-2 or all free at f6c-/7a or 5.11c).

Quebrada Llanganuco is surrounded by eight 6000m peaks: Huandoy Sur (6160m), Oeste (6356m), Norte (6395m) and Este (6000m) in the Nort, Pisco (5752m), Chacraraju Oeste (6112m) and Este (6004m) in the northeast, Yanapuccha (5460m) in the east at the end of the valley and Chopicalqui (6354m) and Huascaran Sur (6769m) and Norte (6664m) in the south. The valley is accessed from Yungay (2550m, access from Huaraz by bus, 1h). From there by car 2km pass Llanganuco lakes to Pisco Base Camp at the entrance of Quebrada Demanda. Pisco (5752m, IV/PD, 45°, 825m. The name means Peruvian liquour) and Yanupacha (5460m; West Face (normal route) PD+, 45-60°. 550m, 5-8h) are easier goals of the valley. Main attraction of the valley is multi-summited Huandoy (6395m), normal routes of which start from a camp at 4600m (hut), 4h from Pisco Base Camp. Another highlight is Chacraraju (6112m), the hardest 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca and whole Andes. It is climbed from a BC at Lagos 69 (4550m).

Some climbs of the Huascaran group (Chopicalqui (6354m) and Huascaran Sur (6769m) and Norte (6664m)) are also climbed from the Llanganuco valley. For thoise climbs camp at 4300m in Quebrada Yuraj is used. Normal route of Chopicalqui follows the SW ridge from Llanganuco valley (BC 0,5h from the road at 4300m; IV/PD+/AD-, 65°, 1550M/2150m). Garganta camp located between summits of Huascaran can be reached from this valley (dfficult because of broken glacier). There are several very long and difficult routes on north face of Huascaran Norte: NE face (TD/ED, uiaa V,A2, 60°), NE Ridge (ED1, uiaa V, 65°), "Casarotto" (ED3, A2/3, vi+) and "Paragot" (ED1, 80-90° uiaa V-,A1).

Huascaran

South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. For normal routes the starting point is the village of Musho that is accessed from Huaraz via village of Mancas. Base camp is usually at 4150m. From there a col between the summits is reached (high camp Garganta, 5980m). Garganta camp is also accessible from the Quebrada Llanganuco (see Huandoy for details) in the north through eastern ice fall (very dangerous). North face of Huascaran norte has impressive routes accessible from the same valley as well.

Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m. Chopakalquii is the easternmost peak of the massif. Normal route follows the SW ridge from Llanganuco valley (BC 0,5h from the road at 4300m; IV/PD+/AD-, 65°, 1550M/2150m). East and SE ridges are accessible from Quabrada Ulta in the south. Both of the latter are difficult with Se Ridge (TD-, 1350m/2050m 4-5days roundtrip from Huaraz) being slightly easier than East face direct (TD, 80°, uiaa V, 950m).

Chinchey

South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular. it is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz.

Quebrada Ulta is located directly to the east of Carhuaz. On the north side of valley lie Huascaran Sur (6768m), Chopicalqui (6354m) and Contrahierbas (6036m). South side has less famous peaks like Ulta (5875m) and Hualcn Este (6125m) and Oeste (6104m). Access to the valley is easy as there's a road along the entire length of the valley. Take a bus from Huaraz to Carhuaz and further towards Chacas on the east side of Cordillera Blanca (3h from Huaraz to Chopicalqui trailhead). When the road to Charcas starts to climb up from the valley, follow the main valley to the Quebrada Artesa (lagos Artesa, 4400m, 0,5 days from the road). From there trek via laguna Yanayacu. Camp at 500m on the glacier edge. The valley is mainly visited by climbers going to SE Ridge of Chopicalqui.

Quebrada Honda is located to the south of Copa Sur (6188m) and Norte (6173m). The the east and south lie several high peaks: Chinchey (6222m), Pucaranra (6147m), Palcaraju (6274m), Tocllaraju(6032m) and Urus (5495m).

To the south of Quebrada Honda lies shorter Ishinca valley. Is is propable the best place in Cordillera Blanca for climbers with limited time or experience. The valley is surrounded by Urus (5495m) massif in the north between Honda and Ishinca valleys, Tocllaraju (6032m) and Palcaraju (6274m) in the east and Ishinca (5530m), Ranrapalca (6162m), Ochsapalca (5881m) and Vallunaraju 5686m) in the south between Ishinca and Cojup valleys. The valley is easily accessed from Huaraz in a day via villages of Paltay and Collon (3350m). Trek from Collon to the base camp in Quebrada Ishinca at 4300m (5h) or Ishinca lake at 4800m (hut). Several peaks are possible from the same base camp. Urus (PD-) and Ishinca (PD-) are popular as acclimatizations climbs, while Tocllaraju and especially Ranrapalca are more demanding climbs (both have several routes starting at around alpine grade D).

Short Quebrada Llaca (hut at 4300m, access via Willcahuain by car) is located directly above Huaraz. It is the starting point for popular acclimatization climbs on Vallunaraju (5686m). Normal ascent follows North Ridge (AD-, II, 550m). Much more difficult Ocshapalca (5881m) is climbed from the same camp. Steep south face of Ochsapalca has difficult ice routes (ED, 650m). Ranrapalca (6162m) is notr commonly climbed from this valley.

Quabrada Cojup is used for Ranrapalca (south side), Palcaraju (6274m) and Pucaranra (6156m). Lagos Palcacocha (4500m) is reached in 14 hike from the road.

Large Quebrada Quilcayhuanca is surrounded by Churup (5493m) in the north and Pucaranra (6156m), Chinchey (6309m), Tullparaju (5787m) and Andatnte (5518m) in the east. Its side valley Quebrada Cauesh is surrounded by Cayesh (5721m) in the east and San Juan (5843m) and Maparaju (5326m) in the south. Access is via the village of Pitec (3800m, 1,5h from Huaraz). From there the junction of the main valley and Quebrada Cayesh is reached in 9h (4050m). It is possible to walk all the way from Huaraz but it adds another 15,5 km. Maparaju (SW and W slopes, F) and San Juan (NW Ridge (normal route), AD+, 65°), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents. Despite their height, Chinchey (West Face to North Ridge PD+/AD-, 55°, 3-4 ays roundtrip from meadow camp) and Pucaranra are relatively seldom climbed.

Huantsan

Huantsan group is located very close to Huaraz, slightly to the SE. It lies to the south Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cayesh. Maparaju (5326m) and San Juan (5843m), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents.

Quebrada Rajucolta provides access to two very different peaks, relatively easy Cashan (5716m) and extremely difficult Huantsan (6369m). Even though Huantsan, the highest peak of southern Cordillera Blanca, is located close to Huaraz, it is one o? the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak aftr Chacraraju.

Quebrada Rurec is visited (from Olleros) to climb Uruashraju (5722m), located at the southern part of the group.

Still further to the south, separated from the main group lies Yanamarey valley with the large lake of Querococha (3980m). is is accessed from Catac. The valley offers good acclimatization climbs of Yanamaray Norte (5237m) and Sur (5197). Also SE side Pucaraju (5322m) is possible from the valley.

Southern Cordillera Blanca

Furthest to the south lie Raria (Raria Norte (5576m), Raria Sur (5507m)) and Caullaraju groups (Huicsa (5476m), Tuco (5463m), Pastoruri (5240m), Caullaraju Este (5682m)). Both of these massifs offer a number of easy lower objectives around 5500m and would make a good acclimatisation area. The area is accessed from Huaraz via Pachacato up the Rio Punapampa road towards Pastorunil. During the summer there are many buses.

Cordillera Huayhuash

Cordillera Huayhuash resembles the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, although the peaks of Huayhuash are generally lower but technically more difficult. Cordillera Huayhuash is also less accessible, approaches take normally at least 2-3 days from Chiquian, located to the NW side of the range (3400m), that is nearest convenient center of Cordillera Huayhuash. It can be reached by bus from Huaraz or directly from Lima. During the recent years the mining activity has opened new access to Llamac (3300m), a a village in NW closer to the Huayhuash and further to Matacancha. Few peaks are more conveniently accessed from Cajatambo (3375m) in southwest (direct buses from Lima).

Most climbs in northern part od Huayhuash can be climbed from a base camp either by laguna Jahuacocha (4066m) or laguna Carhuacocha (4138m). Jahuacoccha is located on the NW side and it is accessed by taking a bus to Llamac (3300m, 2-3h) and trekking from there (13km, 780m). Laguna Carhuacocha located in northeastern side of the chain can be reached from Llamac by taking a truck from Llamac along the mining road to Matacancha at the base of Cancanampunta pass and hiking the rest. Alternative access is a bus from from Chiquian to La Union and collectivo to Queropalca (few hours hike from there).

Lake Sarapococha (4360m), located on the west side, to the south os western branch is the base for Siulá Grande. Large Pumarinri valley in the souther part can serve as a base for souther climbs. Punta Cuyoc pass (4975m) provides access from the Pumarinri valley in the west to the eastern side.

The range is very compact, it is just 35 from north to south. Huayhuash features a dozen major peaks which provide difficult climbs due to the frequency of avalanches of snow and ice. Six mountains (total of nine summits) rise above 6000m. Cordillera Huayhuash consista of two chains, the one running from north to south and smaller chain branching of from the N-S chain to the west and joining to N-S chain at Yerupaja, the highest peak in Cordillera Huayhuash.

In the northernmost part the chain consists of Ninashanca 5637 and Rondoy (5879m). Next towards south are imposing pyramid of Jirishanca (6094m, all routes very difficult), Jirishanca Chico., Yerupajá Chico (6124m), Yerupajá (6634m), Sarapo (6127m) and Siulá Grande (6344m). Siulá Grande is probably the best knowm peak of the range due to legendary first ascent of its West face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. The epic descent is described in "Touching the Void" by Joe Simpson and documentary film by the same name. Next towards south are Carnicero (5960m), Jurac (5600m), Trapecio (5644m), Puscanturpa (Norte 5652m, Sur 5550m), Cuyoc (5560m) and Pumarinri (5465m) are the most prominent peaks in the southern part of the range.

West-east chain contain Diablo Mudo, Huyacrish (5774m), Sacra (5548m) and Rasac (6017m) before it join North-South chain at Yerupaja.

Pariaucro (5590m) and Huagshash (5540m) are located in a separate massif to the SW of Cordillera Huayhuash. Cordillera Raura is located to the southeast.

Circuit trek around Cordillera Huayhuash is well known and considered one of the best in the world. Traditionall the lentgh from Chiquian to Chiquian has been 110 miles (12 days), but nowadays the route is a bit shorter if mining roads are used.

Southern Peru

Around and to the south of the city of Cuzco in southern Peru lie several small wild and little explored mountain ranges. Best known of these ranges are Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera Villabamba and Cordillera Urubamba (all belong to Cordillera Oriental). The peaks are heavily glaciated and wild in nature, there are few easy routes. The ranges are typically difficult to access. Because of the difficulty of the access the area sees few climbers, even the most popular peaks Ausangate (6384m) and Salcantay (6264m) are nowhere near as frequented as the peaks of Cordillera Blanca and even to Cordillere Huayhuash. Ancient Inca capital Cuzco (3310m) is usually Cuzco is typically reached by plane from Lima (several flight daily). Another possibilty would be to take a bus but is is very long (33h).

Climbing season lasts from May to August. Proximity nto Amazon makes the area more prone to wetter and less stabile weather than the ranges in northern Peru. Usually 2-3 days of bad weather per week must be endured. Storms are possible even during the dry season. Freezinfg temperatures are encountered at the altitude of 4000m during the season while snow line lies at approximately 5000m. Western and southern slopes have more snow and ice while eastern and northerns slopes are more rocky.

The highest peak in Central and southern peru is Ausangate (6384m), 4th highest peak in Peru and 17th in the Andes. It is located in Cordillera Villanota in central Peru. The area has become more popular trekking area during the recent years which has opened up the access. Access is via Tinqui (3800m, 5h from Cuzco by car). Besides Ausangate most prominent peaks include Mariposa (5808m), Callangate (6110m), Jatunhuma 6093m), Jatunriti (6106m) and Yayamari (6049m).

Coldillera Villabamba is ancient inca country. Well known Machu Picchu is located here. The highest peak of the area is Salöcantay (6264m). Humantauy (5917m) is another important peak.

Parallel Cordilleras Occidental, Central and Oriental run in the northern Peru. Of those only Occidental is interesting for the climbers. It is however, one of the premiere places for alpine climbing in the word as Cordilleras Blanca and Huayuhuash located in northern Peru are home to some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. These are high mountains with steep granite peaks, rising above icy ridges and twisted glaciers. The snow and ice on the ridges is often beautifully sculpted, carrying large and complex cornices. Cordillera Blanca in the western (or coastal) part of Northern Peru and Cordillera Huayhuash offer the most popular climbs. Together there are about 20 major mountains above 6000m, many of them count among the most beautiful and the hardest in the Andes.

Most of the climbing is on the snow or ice, on steep faces and sharp ridges that often build extensive cornices. North faces tend to have good snow and ice, at least until noon ehile south face often have unconsolidated powder. South American snow sticks to steeper slopes than in European Alps. Ridges are often beautiful with impressive double cornices. However because of this, they are very difficult and unjustifiably dangerous. Rock quality is generally poor.

Climbing season lasts from May to Semptember with June and July typically considered best months for climbing. The area has typically heavy rains from December to March and a markedly dry season from May to October. During this period the weather cycle is very stable with several days of good weather followed by one or two of bad. Within this period, sunny days may have temperatures of 25°C. There will normally be overnight frost anywhere above around 4500m. Snow line is around 5000m.

Several companies organise climbs and treks in Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash, especially on more accessible Cordillera Blanca. Mules (burro) are commonly used to transport gear to the base camp. It is usually possible to arrenge them and muleteers (arrieros) in starting villages.

Bolivia

Cordillera Apolobamba

On the border between Peru and Bolivia, north of lake Titicaca lies Cordillera Apolobamba. The range is not very popular among climbers, as the range is remote and access difficult. Base is the city of Pelechuco (3600m), located some 250km to the north of La Paz and 300km south of Cuzco (Pero). Access is usually by bus from La Paz (18-24h). There are a couple of peaks rising above 6000m, the highest of them being Chaupi Orco (6044m, PD). Other notable mountains include Ascarani (5580m) and Soral (5641m). The area is more glaciated and more prone to bad weather than other ranges in Bolivia.

Cordillera Real

The highest and most extensive of Bolivian ranges is Cordillera Real on the north of Altiplano, just northeast the city of La Paz and southeast of lake Titicaca. The area is mostly easily accessible from Las Paz and is by far the most popular range in Bolivia, especially the southern part. Best known climbing destinations of the range are Illampu (6368m) and Ancohuma (6427m) in the northern part, Condoriri (5650m), Huayna Potosi (6088m) and Illimani (6438m). Northern part has more spectacular and difficult peaks.

Northern Cordillera Real

Northernmost part of Cordillerta Real reminiscent somewhat Peruvian Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru with steep fluted faces of ice and snow. The area has more than 30 peaks rising above 5000m. Main climbing goals of this area are Ancohuma (6427m) and Illampu (6368m). The latter of which is considered to be the most difficult high peak in Bolivia (AD/D on the normal route along W Ridge; there are many harder routes). Illampu–Ancohuma massif has the greatest number of technical routes in Bolivia. The area is located southeast of the city of Sorata (2700m), that is the base of the climbs is this area. Sorata is accessed from La Paz, 5h.

Further south of Sorata group lies Nevado Chearoco (6150m) and Nevado Chachacomani (6100m). These can be reached from La Paz via Copacabana and Amahuayna Pass (5120m) to Llocolloni valley. Both peaks can be climbed from a camp at Leche Khota lake (4650m). Still further south, north of Condoriri group, lie Jankho Lay and Nigruni groups

Condoriri group

In the central part of the cain lies Condoriri group with Condoriri (Cabeza del Condor, 5650m) and Pequeno Alpamayo (5400m). Condoriri is considered to be one of the most beautiful peaks in the Andes. Normal route along SW Ridge is very popular (AD). The group is accessed from Estacio Tuni (4400m). From there ist is 2h hike to the base camp by Lago Chiar-cota at 4700m.

Southern Cordillera Real

Southern part of the Cordillera Real is located very close to the city of la Paz. Iilimani (6438m), located at the southern end of the Cordillera Real the highest peak of the range and the second highest peak in Bolivia. Huayna Potosi (6088m) is located at the northern end of the chain, just south of Condoriri group. it is supposedly the easiest 6000m peak in Bolivia. Lower Charquini (5392m) shares the same camp is thus popular as accilimatization climb.

Cordillera Occidental

Cordillera Occidental is located close to Chilean border extending from southern Peru in the north to the Puna de Atacama in the south. It is a range of isolated volcanic peaks, that rise from the high plateau (4220-4400m). Almost all of them are easy to climb. Here lies the highest peak of Bolivia, Nevado Sajama (6542m). Access to the range can be problematic and water supplies are scarce as only the highest peaks have permanent snowfields or glaciers. The climate is dry, thus climbing is reasonable year round. Access is from Arequipa (2325m) for the peaks in southern Peru (Coropuna (6425m), Solimana (6093m), Ampeta (6288m), Hualca Hualca (6025m), Chachani (6057,)), Arica (seal level) or Cabra (2350m) in Chile or from La Paz (3700m) in Bolivia (via villaga Sajama, 5h) (Sajama 6542m, Parinacota 6300m).

Bolivia's most distinctive geographical feature is the Altiplano, a high plateau contained between Cordillera Real in the North, Cordillera Occidental in the west and Cordillera Oriental in the east. Cordillera Real is by far most interesting for the climbers. Mountains in Cordillera Apolobamba and Cordillera Real are mostly heavily glaciated and alpine in nature. Cordillera Occidental has isolated volcanoes that are usually easilu climbable. The Capital city La Paz (3510m) lies on the Altiplano, very close to Cordillera Real, thus serving as a good base.

Most favourable weather can be expexted during the winter (April - October), usually best montsh are May, June and July. Then the weather is dry and most stable in the Andes; usually only 3-4 bad days a month. Nights are bitterly cold. Due to low temperatures, avalanches are very rare during the season. Climbing is reasonable also later in a year (September and October, then much warmer temperatures. Cordillera Apolobabmba has wetter and less stable climate than the other areas.

The IGM (Instituto Geografico Militar) have produced most of the maps of Bolivia. On some areas other maps are available as well.

Puna de Atacama & High Andes

Puna de Atacama

Puna de Atacama is high plateau (4000m) in northern Chile reaching from southern Bolivia to NW Argentina. The area has over 30 major peaks rising above 6000m and 6 of 10 highest peaks n the Andes. However, the mountains in Puna de Atacama are not nearly as majestic in shape as lower mountains of Cordillera Blanca or Cordillera Huayhuash or rock towers of Patagonia. Normally there's at least one non-technical route (F). Several of the peaks in Puna de Atacama were climbed already by the Incas. Best known peaks include Nevado Pissis (6882m), Ojos del Salado (6864m), Bonete (6748m), Nevado Tres Cruces (6748m) and Cerro Llullaillaco (6739m).

Several of the mountains can be accessed eiher from Chile or from Argentina. Main starting points are Calama (Chile) for NW areas, Salta (Argentina) for NE areas, Copiapó (Chile) or Catamarca (Argentina) for SW areas (Ojos del Salado) and La Rioja (Argentina) for SE areas (pissis, Bonete).

Climate is typically cold (down to minus 20 in the high mountains). Puna de Atacama is very dry, there are several 6000m peaks with no permanent snow or glaciers. Climbing is reasonable all year round. However, October and March are propably the best months.

High Andes

High Andes lie further south on the border between Chile and Argentina. The highest peak of the group, Aconcagua (6960m) is the highest peak of South-America. Normal route is glacier free and non-technical, because of this and the height, it is very popular. Also Polish glacier route is reasonably popular. Other than Aconcagua, High Andes is not particularly popular among the climbers. However, several lower groups (Loma Larga, Vellecites) have alpine peaks with sharp ridges and ice faces.

Access is typically eiher from Buenos Aires in Argentina with flights to Mendoza (Aconcagua) or San Juan (Mercedario) or from Santiago (Chile).

Climate is typically cold (down to minus 20 in the high mountains). In High Andes, season lasts from december to March. During that time the weather is dry and stable. Especially the northern part is very dry. High Andes is windy, specially Aconcagua is notorious for the winds. Snow line lies at 5500m in the northern areas and at 4500m around Santiago.

Chile's 4000 miles of ocean shore are lined with low coastal mountains, behind and to the east of which quickly rise the much higher Andes that form the border between Argentina and Chile. In the Northern Chile and Argentina lie the high plateau of Puna de Atacama. South of the Puna lies High Andes. This is where the highest mountain and propably the best-known climbing destination of South America, Aconcagua (or Cerro Aconcagua 6962m), is located.

Patagonia & Southern Andes

The southernmost 1500km of Chile and Argentina are known as Patagonia. It is famous for its wild landscape with snow covered volcanoes, sharp granite spires and vast icefields. Patagonia is also notorious for its horrible conditions.

Best known climbing objectives in patagonia are the two rugged and legendary mountains in the Patagonia Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m). The latter of the two was once held as the most difficult mountain to climb. Both of these and the neighbouring Cerro Stanhardt and Torre Egger are accessed from El Chalten (Argentina).

Other area in Patagonia that sees climbing activity is Paine National Park, located about 160 kilometers south of the Fitzroy/Cerro Torre group in Chile.