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South America

Southern America is dominated by the chain of Andes that stretches from the southern tip of Argentina and Chile to the northern part of Columbia. Best known climbing areas are the mountains around Aconcagua and Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes and Patagonia in the southern end of the range.

Northern Andes of Venezuela, Columbia and Ecuador are divided into several ranges; Venezuealan Andes are concentrated around Sierra Nevada National Park, Columbian Andes consist of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the extreme north of the country, further south, the Eastern, Central, and Western Cordilleras are parallel north-south ranges. Eastern and Western Cordilleras continue through Ecuador as well. There are also several isolated volcanic peaks. Most popular climbing peaks are Chimborazo (6310m) and Cotopaxi (5897m) in Ecuador.

Peru is home to some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. These are high mountains with steep granite peaks, rising above icy ridges and twisted glaciers. The snow and ice on the ridges is often beautifully sculpted, carrying large and complex cornices. The Peruvian Andes are divided into ranges of Cordillera Blanca in the western (or coastal) part of Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Cordillera Central, Cordillera Occidental and Cordillera Oriental. Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash offer t?e most popular climbs, Huaraz in the more accessible Cordillera Blanca being the mecca of Andinism. Among the attractions are 5947m high picturesque Alpamayo that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world and the highest mountain of the Range, Huascaran. There are several other mighty mountains, such as Artesonraju, Taulliraju, Charcraraju and Tocllaraju. Cordillera Huayhuash resembles the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, although the peaks of Huayhuash are generally lower but technically more difficult. The highest peak in the area is Mount Yerupajá (6634m); followed by Yerupajá Chico (6121m); Jirishanca (6094m); Siulá Grande (6344m); Rondoy (5879m); Ninashanca (5807m) and Rasac (6017m).

Bolivia's most distinctive geographical feature is the Altiplano, a high plateau contained between Cordillera Occidental in the west and Cordillera Oriental in the east. The highest of Bolivian ranges is Cordillera Real on the north of Altiplano. Many of Bolivia's mountains are volcanoes, best known among the climbers being Illimaní­, Huayna Potosi and Nevado Samaja.

Chile's 4000 miles of ocean shore are lined with low coastal mountains, behind and to the east of which quickly rise the much higher Andes that form the border between Argentina and Chile. This is where the highest mountain and propably the best-known climbing destination of South America, Aconcagua (or Cerro Aconcagua 6962m), is located. It is one of the seven summits. Normal routes are non-technical, the main difficulty is the height.

The southernmost 1500km of Chile and Argentina are known as Patagonia. It is famous for its wild landscape and notorious for its horrible conditions. There are two rugged and legendary mountains in the Patagonia Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m). The latter of the two was once held as the most difficult mountain to climb.

  • Biggar, John: The Andes, 2nd edition. Andes, 1999. Isbn: 9780953608706.
  • Biggar, John: The Andes - A Guide for Climbers, 3Rev Ed edition. Andes, 2005. Isbn: 9780953608727.
  • Bonington, Chris & Salkeld, Audrey: World Mountaineering - The World's Greatest Mountains by the Worlds Greatest Mountaineers. Miller's Publications, 2006. Isbn: 1845331427.
  • Harper, Kate; Pitkethly, Val & Saunders, Victor: Trekking and Climbing in the Andes (Globetrotter Adventure Guide). New Holland Publishers Ltd, 2002. Isbn: 9781859743911.
  • Neate, Jill: Mountaineering in the Andes. Hyperion Books, 1993. Isbn: 9780907649649.
  • Radehose, Eckehard: Traumberge Amerikas. Von Alaska bis Feuerland.. Bergverlag Rother, 2002. Isbn: 9783763330065.
  • Andes Handbook. Information about various mountains and their routes. Check also Spanish version for more information. Includes very good photos with marked route lines.
  • Andes website. Information Files on the Andes - Trekking, Climbing, Mountaineering and Skiing in South America. Good information by John Biggar, author of Andes guidebooks. Includes extensive mountains lists.

Northern Andes of Venezuela, Columbia and Ecuador are divided into several ranges; Venezuealan Andes are concentrated around Sierra Nevada National Park, Columbian Andes consist of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the extreme north of the country, further south, the Eastern, Central, and Western Cordilleras are parallel north-south ranges. Eastern and Western Cordilleras continue through Ecuador as well. There are also several isolated volcanic peaks. By far the most popular climbing peaks are Chimborazo (6310m) and Cotopaxi (5897m) in Ecuador.

Ecuador is the main climbing attraction in northern Andes. Access is usually easy from Quito (many climbs are possible in a long weekend) and most popular areas have huts.

The mountains of Ecuador have a complicated weather pattern with two dry seasons; from June to July and December to January (neithor of which being completely dry). On some areas climbing is reasonable even at other times. March and May are to be avoided at all costs. Ecuador gets a lots of fresh snow. Eastern part of Ecuador is particularly affected by the proximity of Amazon, thus the area suffers a very wet climate.

  • Brain, Yossi: Ecuador - A Climbing Guide. Menasha Ridge Press, 2000. Isbn: 9781871890136.
  • Rachowiecki, Rob & Thurber, Mark: Ecuador, 5th - Climbing & Hiking, 5th edition. Bradt Travel Guides, 2004. Isbn: 9781841620756.
Northern Andes >

Western Cordillera include Chimborazo, the highest peak in Equador (6310m). Besides it, the main attraction for climbers is Illiniza with easy Norte (5116m) and moderately hard Sur (5305m, AD with ice up to 50°).

  • Located in Cordillera Occidental in Ecuador, Chimborazo is the highest mountain of Ecuador. Until 1818 when higher peaks were found, Chimborazo was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. It is an inactive volcano whose indian name means 'ice peak of the other side'.
  • Popular climbing peak, higher and more demanding than Cotopaxi. There are few alternative routes at around PD or PD+, the best one depends on conditions. After the construction of the Whymper Hut (5000m) in 1980 below the South West Flank, the Normal Route shifted from the North West Ridge (PD, the line of Whymper's second ascent in 1880) to the Original Route (AD) up the South West Ridge. When Original Route was dry and exposed to rockfall, the North West Ridge was accessed from the hut via snow ramp below a rock tower of El the Castillo (PD/PD+). If El Castillo is dangerous, many parties now climb the lower Thielmann Glacier direct, cutting up left to gain the crest of the North West Ridge (PD/AD-: 40° hard dry ice).
  • summits:
    • Whymper (6310m)
    • Veintimilla (6267m)
1880
Chimborazo,
First ascent		 Edward Whymper, Jean Antoine Carrell and Lois Carrell via SSW side

  • Whymper Refure (located on SW side at 5000m)
NW Ridge
  • Normal route. Very popular route. Glacier climb from Whymper Refure via SW Face to rock outcrop at the foot of NW Ridge ("El Castillo"). From there along the ridge to Peak Veintimilla (6267m) and further to main summit.
  • PD/PD+, 40°. 1310m, 13-16h (round trip)
Northern Andes >

Eastern Cordillera includes classic glaciated volcanoes Cotopaxi (5897m), Tungurahua (F) and slightly more demanding Caymabe (PD (varies between F and AD depending on the conditions of last bbig crevasse), usually more demanding than Cotopaxi or Chimmborazo) and Antisana (PD). Perhaps the most interesting feature of the Eastern Cordillera is El Altar 5319m, the horseshow with several volcanic peaks. It is the only high peak in Eciador that is technically hard to climb (normal route AD/d with IV-V and 60°).

  • Cone shaped Cotopaxi is one of the best known peaks in the Andes and most popular altitude climb in Equador. Easier than Chimborazo and conveniently located close to main highway and Quito.
  • Cotopaxi is often regarded as the highest still active volcano in the world. This is not true, as there are higher active volcanoes in Chile and Peru. Reaches furthest away from the core of the Globe.
  • First ascent by German geologist Wilhelm Reiss & Angel Escobar in 1872 from the southwest.
North side
  • Refuge Jose Rives (4800m)
Normal route from north side
  • Normal route. Glacier ascent, no technical difficulties. From Refuge Jose Rives turn Yanasacha ice fall/rock barrier on the right side to gain the upper slopes.
  • F/PD, 40-50°. 1100m, 5,5h
    El Altar is located in Eastern Cordillera and it is the only high peak in Equador which is technically hard to climb. Horseshoe shaped chain of volcanic peaks with snow cover and steep walls. Highest point is El Obispo (5319m). Rock quality is very bad.
  • Italian Camp (4600m, 6h from Vaqueria)
El Obispo, "Italian route"
  • Normal route. From camp to glacier above laguna Azul and through couloir to upper hanging glacier. Steep gully to the summit ridge and final rock wall to the summit. IV-V on the final rock wall, 60° ice. Rarely in condition.
  • AD/D, IV-V, 60°. 7h
El Obistpo "arista del Calvario"
  • Avoids the lower part of Italian route that is seldom in Condition. IV-V on the final rock wall, 60° ice.
Northern Andes >

In addition to Cordilleras, Ecuador has three high isolated volcanoes: Reventador, Sumaco and Sangay. Sangay, located 40km south of El Altar is the most active volcano in Andes. The ascent of Saqngay is technically easy (PD?) but it is very dangerous due to volcanic eruptions.

Parallel Cordilleras Occidental, Central and Oriental run in the northern Peru. Of those only Occidental is interesting for the climbers. It is however, one of the premiere places for alpine climbing in the word as Cordilleras Blanca and Huayuhuash located in northern Peru are home to some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. These are high mountains with steep granite peaks, rising above icy ridges and twisted glaciers. The snow and ice on the ridges is often beautifully sculpted, carrying large and complex cornices. Cordillera Blanca in the western (or coastal) part of Northern Peru and Cordillera Huayhuash offer the most popular climbs. Together there are about 20 major mountains above 6000m, many of them count among the most beautiful and the hardest in the Andes.

Most of the climbing is on the snow or ice, on steep faces and sharp ridges that often build extensive cornices. North faces tend to have good snow and ice, at least until noon while south face often have unconsolidated powder. South American snow sticks to steeper slopes than in European Alps. Ridges are often beautiful with impressive double cornices. However because of this, they are very difficult and unjustifiably dangerous. Rock quality is generally poor.

Climbing season lasts from May to Semptember with June and July typically considered best months for climbing. The area has typically heavy rains from December to March and a markedly dry season from May to October. During this period the weather cycle is very stable with several days of good weather followed by one or two of bad. Within this period, sunny days may have temperatures of 25°C. There will normally be overnight frost anywhere above around 4500m. Snow line is around 5000m.

Several companies organize climbs and treks in Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash, especially on more accessible Cordillera Blanca. Mules (burro) are commonly used to transport gear to the base camp. It is usually possible to arrange them and muleteers (arrieros) in starting villages.

Peru >

The Cordillera Blanca ("White Range") lies just 100km east of the Pacific Ocean. It is some 180 km long narrow chain of mountains running from north to south. It offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. The Cordillera Blanca contains more than 300 major summits, more than 31 of these rise over 6000 meters and further 30 are higher than 5700m. The highest peak, Huascaran offers fine climbing although it is one of the easiest 6000m peaks in the range. <<more>> .

Peru >

Cordillera Huayhuash resembles the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, although the peaks of Huayhuash are generally lower but technically more difficult. Cordillera Huayhuash is also less accessible, approaches take normally at least 2-3 days from Chiquian, located to the NW side of the range (3400m), that is nearest convenient center of Cordillera Huayhuash. It can be reached by bus from Huaraz or directly from Lima. During the recent years the mining activity has opened new access to Llamac (3300m), a a village in NW closer to the Huayhuash and further to Matacancha. Few peaks are more conveniently accessed from Cajatambo (3375m) in southwest (direct buses from Lima).

Most climbs in northern part od Huayhuash can be climbed from a base camp either by laguna Jahuacocha (4066m) or laguna Carhuacocha (4138m). Jahuacoccha is located on the NW side and it is accessed by taking a bus to Llamac (3300m, 2-3h) and trekking from there (13km, 780m). Laguna Carhuacocha located in northeastern side of the chain can be reached from Llamac by taking a truck from Llamac along the mining road to Matacancha at the base of Cancanampunta pass and hiking the rest. Alternative access is a bus from from Chiquian to La Union and collectivo to Queropalca (few hours hike from there).

Lake Sarapococha (4360m), located on the west side, to the south os western branch is the base for Siulá Grande. Large Pumarinri valley in the souther part can serve as a base for souther climbs. Punta Cuyoc pass (4975m) provides access from the Pumarinri valley in the west to the eastern side.

The range is very compact, it is just 35 from north to south. Huayhuash features a dozen major peaks which provide difficult climbs due to the frequency of avalanches of snow and ice. Six mountains (total of nine summits) rise above 6000m. Cordillera Huayhuash consista of two chains, the one running from north to south and smaller chain branching of from the N-S chain to the west and joining to N-S chain at Yerupaja, the highest peak in Cordillera Huayhuash.

In the northernmost part the chain consists of Ninashanca 5637 and Rondoy (5879m). Next towards south are imposing pyramid of Jirishanca (6094m, all routes very difficult), Jirishanca Chico., Yerupajá Chico (6124m), Yerupajá (6634m), Sarapo (6127m) and Siulá Grande (6344m). Siulá Grande is probably the best knowm peak of the range due to legendary first ascent of its West face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. The epic descent is described in "Touching the Void" by Joe Simpson and documentary film by the same name. Next towards south are Carnicero (5960m), Jurac (5600m), Trapecio (5644m), Puscanturpa (Norte 5652m, Sur 5550m), Cuyoc (5560m) and Pumarinri (5465m) are the most prominent peaks in the southern part of the range.

West-east chain contain Diablo Mudo, Huyacrish (5774m), Sacra (5548m) and Rasac (6017m) before it join North-South chain at Yerupaja.

Pariaucro (5590m) and Huagshash (5540m) are located in a separate massif to the SW of Cordillera Huayhuash. Cordillera Raura is located to the southeast.

Circuit trek around Cordillera Huayhuash is well known and considered one of the best in the world. Traditionall the lentgh from Chiquian to Chiquian has been 110 miles (12 days), but nowadays the route is a bit shorter if mining roads are used.

  • Frimer, Jeremy: Climbs & treks in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Elaho, 2005. Isbn: 0973303557.
  • Kielkowski, Jan: Cordillera Huayhuash Vol. 3. Explo Publishers, 1991. Isbn: KIELKOWSKIHUAYHUASH.
  • Highest mountain in Cordillera Huayhuash, second highest in Peru and 13 highest peak in the Andes.
  • Located in the central part of Cordillera Huayhuash and sometimes overshadowed by its lower neighbours of Jirishanca (6094m) and Siula Grande (6344m).
  • All routes are difficult, there are only few succesfull ascents. West Face and SW Ridge have been the most used route but it has been out of condition during the recent years. Currently more remote East face may be easier.
  • First ascent by Jim Maxwell & Dave Harrah in 1950.
NE side
  • From Lag. Carhuacocha, base of the face at about 5300m
Northeast Face
  • 65°/III. 1900m
South face
    South Face
    • 1300m (47 pitches
    1977
    South Face,
    First ascent    		 Rab Carrington & Al Rouse
West side
  • From laguna Jahuacocha, access from Llamac via mining road.
West Face and SW Ridge
  • Normal route. From laguna Jahuacocha on west side. Snow slope with seracs up to 60° to the South Summit followed by the traverse along SW Ridge (may be corniced) to main summit. There are three bergschrunds, two of which involve vertical climbing. The route has not been in condition during the late 90's and early 00's.
  • D with 60°. 12h
West Face Direct
  • Climbs the face directly to the north side of main summit from laguna Jahuacocha.
  • 55-65°
  • Located in Cordillera Huayhuash, in the central part of the massif. The second highest peak in Cordillera Huayhuash and propable the most famous.
  • Famous for Joe Simpson's Epic "touching the Void" (1998, ISBN: 0099771012). It is filmed by Kevin Macdonald.
  • All routes difficult. Especially 1000m high West Face and 900+ m high East Face.
  • First ascent by Awerzger & Schneider in 1936 via North Face (North Ridge).
North face
  • From laguna Carhuacocha, base of the face at about 5300m.
North Face
  • TD/TD+, 55° III. 800m
1936
North Face,
First ascent		 Awerzger & Schneider
West face
  • 1000m high difficult ice face.
  • laguna Sarapococcha (4360m)
West Face
  • . Talk about mountaineering legend. "Touching the Void" ring as bell?
  • Sco VI (60-90°). 1000m (27 pitches)
1985
West Face,
First ascent		 Joe Simpson & Simon Yates
  • Spectacular pyramid located in the northern part of Cordillera Huayhuash, close to Yerupaja. Sometimes called as "Matterhorn of the Andes". Notoriously difficult which should not come as a great surprise to anyone who has seen the mountain.
  • NE face is located above laguna Mitococha.
  • First ascent by T. Egger & S. Jungmeier in 1957 via East face and buttress (from laguna Carhuacoccha).
West face
  • From laguna Jahuacocha
West face
  • 60-70°, IV+. 750m
1969
West face,
First ascent		 Ricardo Cassin
SE face
  • from laguna Carhuacoccha, which can be accessed from Llamac by car along mining road (2-3h)
SE Face "Fear and Loathing"
  • First ascent on the face. Very steep ice route. , .
  • ED3, VII/WI6+ (Sco VII++). 900m
SE Face "Fear and Loathing",
First ascent		 Alan Powell & Nick Buttock
Peru >

Around and to the south of the city of Cuzco in southern Peru lie several small wild and little explored mountain ranges. Best known of these ranges are Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera Villabamba and Cordillera Urubamba (all belong to Cordillera Oriental). The peaks are heavily glaciated and wild in nature, there are few easy routes. The ranges are typically difficult to access. Because of the difficulty of the access the area sees few climbers, even the most popular peaks Ausangate (6384m) and Salcantay (6264m) are nowhere near as frequented as the peaks of Cordillera Blanca and even to Cordillere Huayhuash. Ancient Inca capital Cuzco (3310m) is usually Cuzco is typically reached by plane from Lima (several flight daily). Another possibilty would be to take a bus but is is very long (33h).

Climbing season lasts from May to August. Proximity to Amazon makes the area more prone to wetter and less stabile weather than the ranges in northern Peru. Usually 2-3 days of bad weather per week must be endured. Storms are possible even during the dry season. Freezinfg temperatures are encountered at the altitude of 4000m during the season while snow line lies at approximately 5000m. Western and southern slopes have more snow and ice while eastern and northerns slopes are more rocky.

The highest peak in Central and southern Peru is Ausangate (6384m), 4th highest peak in Peru and 17th in the Andes. It is located in Cordillera Villanota in central Peru. The area has become more popular trekking area during the recent years which has opened up the access. Access is via Tinqui (3800m, 5h from Cuzco by car). Besides Ausangate most prominent peaks include Mariposa (5808m), Callangate (6110m), Jatunhuma 6093m), Jatunriti (6106m) and Yayamari (6049m).

Coldillera Villabamba is ancient Inca country. Well known Machu Picchu is located here. The highest peak of the area is Salöcantay (6264m). Humantauy (5917m) is another important peak.

Bolivia's most distinctive geographical feature is the Altiplano, a high plateau contained between Cordillera Real in the North, Cordillera Occidental in the west and Cordillera Oriental in the east. Cordillera Real is by far most interesting for the climbers. Mountains in Cordillera Apolobamba and Cordillera Real are mostly heavily glaciated and alpine in nature. Cordillera Occidental has isolated volcanoes that are usually easilu climbable. The Capital city La Paz (3510m) lies on the Altiplano, very close to Cordillera Real, thus serving as a good base.

Most favorable weather can be expected during the winter (April - October), usually best months are May, June and July. Then the weather is dry and most stable in the Andes; usually only 3-4 bad days a month. Nights are bitterly cold. Due to low temperatures, avalanches are very rare during the season. Climbing is reasonable also later in a year (September and October, then much warmer temperatures. Cordillera Apolobabmba has wetter and less stable climate than the other areas.

The IGM (Instituto Geografico Militar) have produced most of the maps of Bolivia. On some areas other maps are available as well.

  • Brain, Yossi & Thurman, Paula: Bolivia - a Climbing Guide. Mountaineers Books, 1999. Isbn: 9781871890488.
  • Mesili, Alain: La Cordillera Real de los Andes-Bolivia (Coleccion Descubra Bolivia). Editorial Los Amigos del Libro, 1984. Isbn: 9788483700815.
Bolivia >

On the border between Peru and Bolivia, north of lake Titicaca lies Cordillera Apolobamba. The range is not very popular among climbers, as the range is remote and access difficult. Base is the city of Pelechuco (3600m), located some 250km to the north of La Paz and 300km south of Cuzco (Pero). Access is usually by bus from La Paz (18-24h). There are a couple of peaks rising above 6000m, the highest of them being Chaupi Orco (6044m, PD). Other notable mountains include Ascarani (5580m) and Soral (5641m). The area is more glaciated and more prone to bad weather than other ranges in Bolivia.

Bolivia >

The highest and most extensive of Bolivian ranges is Cordillera Real on the north of Altiplano, just northeast the city of La Paz and southeast of lake Titicaca. The area is mostly easily accessible from Las Paz and is by far the most popular range in Bolivia, especially the southern part. Best known climbing destinations of the range are Illampu (6368m) and Ancohuma (6427m) in the northern part, Condoriri (5650m), Huayna Potosi (6088m) and Illimani (6438m). Northern part has more spectacular and difficult peaks.

  • 0/8 (Cordillera Real Nord), 1:50.000. DAV.
  • (Cordillera Real Sud). DAV.
  • map of Cordillera Real
  • BIGM: 5846 I (Sorata), 1:50.000.
Bolivia > Cordillera Real >

Northernmost part of Cordillerta Real reminiscent somewhat Peruvian Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru with steep fluted faces of ice and snow. The area has more than 30 peaks rising above 5000m. Main climbing goals of this area are Ancohuma (6427m) and Illampu (6368m). The latter of which is considered to be the most difficult high peak in Bolivia (AD/D on the normal route along W Ridge; there are many harder routes). Illampu–Ancohuma massif has the greatest number of technical routes in Bolivia. The area is located southeast of the city of Sorata (2700m), that is the base of the climbs is this area. Sorata is accessed from La Paz, 5h.

Further south of Sorata group lies Nevado Chearoco (6150m) and Nevado Chachacomani (6100m). These can be reached from La Paz via Copacabana and Amahuayna Pass (5120m) to Llocolloni valley. Both peaks can be climbed from a camp at Leche Khota lake (4650m). Still further south, north of Condoriri group, lie Jankho Lay and Nigruni groups

  • Located in Sorata Massif in the northern Cordillera Real (the highest peak of Sorata massif and the second highest peak of Cordillera Real), above the village of Sorata.
  • Slightly less technical ascent than Illampu.
  • First ascent by Adolph Schulze & Rudolf Dients 11.07.1919 from Cocoyo via laguna Negra.
West side
  • From Sorata to Laguna Chillata and Laguna glacier (5038m)
West side and SW Ridge
  • Normal route. Along the west side and SW Ridge. One camp at 5900m (7h from Sorata, other possibilities from the same high camp).
  • PD+/AD, 45-50°
  • Located in Sorata Massif in the northern end of Cordillera Real (3rd highest peak of Cordillera Real).
  • Considered to be the most difficult of the high peaks in Bolivia.
  • Normally climbed from the village of Sorata.
  • First ascent in 1928.
    West Ridge
    • Normal route. Sow and ice up to 55° on the headwall (300m) to gain the ridge from the the basin of North Glacier (5600m). The ridge is mostly 30°, but short section of 55-60°.
    • AD+
Bolivia > Cordillera Real >

In the central part of the chain lies Condoriri group with Condoriri (Cabeza del Condor, 5650m) and Pequeno Alpamayo (5400m). Condoriri is considered to be one of the most beautiful peaks in the Andes. Normal route along SW Ridge is very popular (AD). The group is accessed from Estacio Tuni (4400m). From there ist is 2h hike to the base camp by Lago Chiar-cota at 4700m.

  • Located in the central part of Cordillera Real.
  • One of the most popular peaks in Bolivia.
  • First ascent by Wilfrid Kühm (solo) in 1940 via SW Ridge.
SW side
  • From Lag.Chiar Cota (4700m)
SW Ridge (Arista SW)
  • IV/AD/AD+, 40-50°, III (III 40-50° 5.3-5.4)
1940
SW Ridge,
First ascent		 Wilfrid Kühm (solo)
Bolivia > Cordillera Real >

Southern part of the Cordillera Real is located very close to the city of la Paz. Iilimani (6438m), located at the southern end of the Cordillera Real the highest peak of the range and the second highest peak in Bolivia. Huayna Potosi (6088m) is located at the northern end of the chain, just south of Condoriri group. it is supposedly the easiest 6000m peak in Bolivia. Lower Charquini (5392m) shares the same camp is thus popular as acclimatization climb.

  • Located in Cordillera Real (highest peak of the range) very close to city of La Paz (Bolivia).
  • Illimani is a long ridge that is continuously above 6000m for 8 km. The highest point is Pico Sur near the south end of the ridge. There are two other summits rising above 6000m. East Face is 1500m high, mostly rocky with seracs (TD).
  • summits:
    • Pico Sur (6438m)
    • Pico Norte (6403m)
1898
Illimani,
First ascent		 William Martin Conway

SW side
  • Puente Rota base camp (4400m, accessible from la Plaz)
South Peak, SW Face
  • Normal route. Start from Puente Rota base camp. There are normally one high camp (Nido de Codones (5450m). From there glacier to the summit.
  • IV/PD/AD, II, 50°. 1000m, 5-7h from Nido de Codones camp
1940-03-22 & 1940-03-23
South Peak, SW Face,
First ascent		 Rolf Boettger, Friedrich Fritz & Wilfrid Kühn
North Peak, SW Face
  • Steep snow. Traverse from the normal route of South Peak at 5800m (above Nide de Codones camp).
  • D-, 50-60°
North Peak, from Puente Roto
  • Start from Puente Rota base camp. Through prominent triangular snow field.
  • D-
North side
    South Peak, North Ridge
    • D-, 40-50°
  • There are two summits. The North Summit (6088m) is higher but the South Summit (5990m) is slightly more difficult.
  • Most climbed big mountain in Bolivia. Huayna Potosi is supposedly the easiest 6000m peak in Cordillera Real. In some years, however, Illimani is easier. Besides the normal routes, West Face of North Peak is a classic.
East side
  • From lag. Zongo (4700m)
North Peak, Normal route
  • Normal route. From lag. Zongo to Camp Argentino at 5540m (5h). The route goes through east slope and North Ridge.
  • PD (II/PD 40-50°). 6h from Camp Argentine
South Peak, SE Face "via de los Francesa"
  • From lag. Zongo to Camp Argentino at 5540m (5h). "La Via de los Franceses" climbs the central part of the face. There is at least one alternatives, "Bodraz Muñoz" (III/AD+, 75°, 300m).
  • III/AD+, AI2 (50/65°). 300m
1974-08
South Peak, SE Face "via de los Francesa",
First ascent		 Thierry Cardan & Alain Mesili
South Peak, SW Ridge
  • From lag. Zongo to Camp Argentino at 5540m (5h).
  • II/AD, 50°. 800m
West face
  • There are several other routes on the face (~TD).
North Peak, West Face "via America"
  • Classic. The classic ice route of the Bolivian Andes. When conditions are poor, may feature rock up to IV+/V and ice up to 75°.
  • IV/D+ 55-65°. 900m
1970
North Peak, West Face "via America",
First ascent		 Harthorne, Harvard, Lanney & Thompson
  • Huyana Potosi West Face. Expedition page includes plenty of information about the climb and approach. By Swedish Apolobamba Expedition 2001 .
Bolivia >

Cordillera Occidental is located close to Chilean border extending from southern Peru in the north to the Puna de Atacama in the south. It is a range of isolated volcanic peaks, that rise from the high plateau (4220-4400m). Almost all of them are easy to climb. Here lies the highest peak of Bolivia, Nevado Sajama (6542m). Access to the range can be problematic and water supplies are scarce as only the highest peaks have permanent snowfields or glaciers. The climate is dry, thus climbing is reasonable year round. Access is from Arequipa (2325m) for the peaks in southern Peru (Coropuna (6425m), Solimana (6093m), Ampeta (6288m), Hualca Hualca (6025m), Chachani (6057,)), Arica (seal level) or Cabra (2350m) in Chile or from La Paz (3700m) in Bolivia (via villaga Sajama, 5h) (Sajama 6542m, Parinacota 6300m).

  • Highest mountain of Bolivia and the highest mountain in Cordillera Occidental some 250 south of Lake Titicaca.
  • First Ascent by J.Prem & P.Ghiglione in 1939 via SE Ridge.
West side
  • Base camp at 4800m (3h trek from Wincurata)
Normal route (NW)
  • Normal route. high camp at 5700m (5-6h from base camp.
  • II/PD with snow up to 50° (50m). 2300m
Southwest Ridge
  • slightly harder than the normal route.
  • III/AD, 55 °. 1100m

Chile's 4000 miles of ocean shore are lined with low coastal mountains, behind and to the east of which quickly rise the much higher Andes that form the border between Argentina and Chile. In the Northern Chile and Argentina lie the high plateau of Puna de Atacama. South of the Puna lies High Andes. This is where the highest mountain and propably the best-known climbing destination of South America, Aconcagua (or Cerro Aconcagua 6962m), is located.

Puna de Atacama & High Andes >

Puna de Atacama is high plateau (4000m) in northern Chile reaching from southern Bolivia to NW Argentina. The area has over 30 major peaks rising above 6000m and 6 of 10 highest peaks n the Andes. However, the mountains in Puna de Atacama are not nearly as majestic in shape as lower mountains of Cordillera Blanca or Cordillera Huayhuash or rock towers of Patagonia. Normally there's at least one non-technical route (F). Several of the peaks in Puna de Atacama were climbed already by the Incas. Best known peaks include Nevado Pissis (6882m), Ojos del Salado (6864m), Bonete (6748m), Nevado Tres Cruces (6748m) and Cerro Llullaillaco (6739m).

Several of the mountains can be accessed either from Chile or from Argentina. Main starting points are Calama (Chile) for NW areas, Salta (Argentina) for NE areas, Copiapó (Chile) or Catamarca (Argentina) for SW areas (Ojos del Salado) and La Rioja (Argentina) for SE areas (pissis, Bonete).

Climate is typically cold (down to minus 20 in the high mountains). Puna de Atacama is very dry, there are several 6000m peaks with no permanent snow or glaciers. Climbing is reasonable all year round. However, October and March are propably the best months.

  • Lies some 80 km south of Ojos del Salado, entirely in Argentina.
  • Recent surveys show that Pissis is higher than though, actually even higher than Ojos del Salado and thus the second highest mountain in the Andes. There are some surveys that claim it to be higher than Aconcagua, but those surveys lack backing.
  • There are several summits with West Summit being the highest. Central Summit ist just slightly lower at 6875m.
  • First ascent by Stefan Osiecki & Jan Szczepanski in 1937.
  • Normally Pissis is climbed from Argentinean side (northeast) with several high camps via North Glacier (F).
  • Highest point in Chile and the highest active volcano in the world.
  • First Ascent by J.Wojsznis & J.Szczepanski in 1937 from Chilean side.
  • Logistically climbing is easier from Chilean side. However, the climb is easier from Argentina.
Chilean side
  • Via Refugio Atacama (5200m) and Refugion Tejos (5750m)
Chilean climb
  • Normal route. Rock tower at the summit (III, 60m). First Ascent by J.Wojsznis & J.Szczepanski in 1937.
  • PD, III
Argentinean side
    Argentinean climb
    • F
  • Stratovolcano (5th highest volcano in the world), that lies 25km west of Ojos del Salado.
  • First ascent by Witold Paryski & Stefan Osiecki in 1937.
East side
    East Route
    • 2049m. BC at 4700m, high camp at 5450m
    1937
    East Route,
    First ascent    		 Witold Paryski & Stefan Osiecki
    First ascent by Bión González & Juan Harseim 01.12.1952.
North side
  • Located in Argentina, some 10km south of Ojos del Salado.
  • First ascent by Walter Penck.
East side
  • Ojos del salado Base Camp (El Arenal, 5500m)
Normal Route via North Face
East Slopes (Normal Route)
  • Climbed from Ojos del salado Base Camp in 3-4 days with high camp at 5800-5900m.
  • F. 3-4 days
  • Lies 25km east of Ojos del Salado on the border between Chile and Argentina.
  • Named so, because Inca ruin was found on the summit in 1913.
  • Can be climbed easily (F) via NW Slopes from Chile of from Argentina via north and south sides.
  • East glacier is difficult alpine undertaking while south glacier is straightforward.
  • First ascent by Matthias Zurbriggen & Stuart Vines in 1897.
North side
  • Access from Santiago de Chile via Colorado River valley.
Normal route from north (Chile)
  • Normal route. High camp at 5000m on NW Flank, then along broad north ridge to the summit. It is also possible to gain north ridge from Argentina.
  • F
1937
Normal route from north,
First ascent		 Lance & Anselmi
Puna de Atacama & High Andes >

High Andes lie further south on the border between Chile and Argentina. The highest peak of the group, Aconcagua (6960m) is the highest peak of South-America. Normal route is glacier free and non-technical, because of this and the height, it is very popular. Also Polish glacier route is reasonably popular. Other than Aconcagua, High Andes is not particularly popular among the climbers. However, several lower groups (Loma Larga, Vellecites) have alpine peaks with sharp ridges and ice faces.

Access is typically either from Buenos Aires in Argentina with flights to Mendoza (Aconcagua) or San Juan (Mercedario) or from Santiago (Chile).

Climate is typically cold (down to minus 20 in the high mountains). In High Andes, season lasts from december to March. During that time the weather is dry and stable. Especially the northern part is very dry. High Andes is windy, specially Aconcagua is notorious for the winds. Snow line lies at 5500m in the northern areas and at 4500m around Santiago.

  • Aconcagua is the highest peak in America, in fact it is the highest mountain outside Asia. One of the seven summits. Incas named it 'The White Sentinel'.
  • It is originally volcanic.
  • Located in Argentina, about 15 km from Chilean border.
  • Normal route is glacier-free and non-technical. Because of this and the high Aconcagua is very popular. Despite its relatively easy technical difficulty the success rate on Aconcagua is scarcely higher than those on Denali. The reasons for Aconcagua's challenge lie in its great height and difficult weather. The climate is generally dry, Aconcagua is subject to intense winds.
  • Best months for climbing Aconcagua are late December, January, February and March.
  • summits:
    • South summit (6960m)
    • West summit (6930m)
Aconcagua,
Attemp		 First sportsman attemp was made by Paul Gussfeldt with some Chilean hillmen. There is some controversial information about whether the incas climbed or tried to climb the mountain.
1897-01-14
Aconcagua,
First ascent		 Mathias Zurbriggen. He was a member of richly financed expedition led by Edward Fitzgerald. Zurbriggen used the NW Route, known today as the Ruta Normal.

    • Aconcagua. Mountain page. At SummitPost.
    • Aconcagua.com. Very good page with lots of route descriptions with good route photos and maps. Also includes general information about climbing the Aconcagua.
    • Aconcagua.net. Very good page with lots of route descriptions and general information about climbing the Aconcagua. Also includes pointers to information sources.
    NW side
    • Plaza de Mulas (4300m)
    Normal Route from NW (Ruta Normal)
    • Normal route. Easiest and most frequented route. Glacier free. Starting point is Plaza de Mulas.
    • F (G5, NZ2) with UIAA I and 40°. 2730m, 5-9 days
    1897-01-14
    Normal Route from NW,
    First ascent    		 Mathias Zurbriggen
    Ibanez-Marmillod (Southwest Ridge, La Canaleta de Grajales)
    • PD (45°, yds 5.5). 2730m, 5-9 days
    1953
    Ibanez-Marmillod,
    Event    		 Frederico Marmillod, Dorly Marmillod, Francisco Ibanez & Fernando Grajales
    East side
    • Plaza Argentina (4100m)
    NE Glacier "Polish Glacier" (Glacier de Polacos)
    • PD (40°). 2762m, Two or three high camps usual
    1934
    NE Glacier "Polish Glacier",
    First ascent    		 four poles
    Direct Polish Glacier
    • Direct line up the Polish glacier on the extreme right hand side of glacier.
    • PD 50-55°. 2762m, Two or three high camps usual
    Polish Traverse (False Polish Glacier)
    • Traverse from the high camp of Polish glacier route (5800m) to Ruta normal. Does not go the actual Polish glacier.
    • F. 2762m, Two or three high camps usual
    East Glacier
    • Ascent through the east glacier located between Polish glacier and South Face. Crux is 200m high rock band (loose rock).
    • AD (60-65°, UIAA IV-VI/5.5-5.9). 2762m
    1978
    East Glacier,
    First ascent    		 Guillermo Vieyro, Jorge Jasson & Edgardo Porcellana
    South face
    • 3000m high South Face has several difficult routes
    • Plaza Francia, 4100m
    Argentine route
    • Considered as the best quality climb on the face
    • D. 2462, 2-4 days
    1966
    Argentine route,
    First ascent    		 O. Pellegrini & J. Aikes
  • Fourth highest mountain in the Andes.
  • 2000m high South Face is difficult but less serious than Aconcagua South Face.
    Inca Route (ENE Ridge)
    • Normal route. From Argentiean side via ENE Ridge. F. Base camp at 3900m and high camp at 5200m (Pircas Incas).
    East Face
    • via Gaballito Glacier
    • 50°. Two camps

The southernmost 1500km of Chile and Argentina are known as Patagonia. It is famous for its wild landscape with snow covered volcanoes, sharp granite spires and vast ice fields. Patagonia is also notorious for its horrible conditions.

Best known climbing objectives in Patagonia are located in Los Glaciares National Park. Here lie Fitzroy massif and Cerro Torre Massif, both not too far away from village of El Chalten, which is accessible from Rio Gallegos, the main city in southern Argentina. Name sakes of the two massifs, Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m) are both legendary mountains offering very difficult climbs on steep rock and ice. Another notable peaks of the area are Mermoz and Poincenot in Fitzroy massif and Cerro Stanhardt and Torre Egger located in Cerro Torre massif.

Other areas in Patagonia that see climbing activity are Paine National Park (Parque Nacional Torres del Paine), located about 160 kilometers south of the Fitzroy/Cerro Torre group in Chile and to some extent, Terra del Fuego.

  • Kearney, Alan: Mountaineering in Patagonia. Cloudcap, 1998. Isbn: 9780938567301.
Patagonia & Southern Andes >

Best known climbing objectives in Patagonia are located in Los Glaciares National Park. Here lie Fitzroy massif and Cerro Torre Massif, both not too far away from village of El Chalten, which is accessible from Rio Gallegos, the main city in southern Argentina. Name sakes of the two massifs, Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m) are both legendary mountains offering very difficult climbs on steep rock and ice. Another notable peaks of the area are Mermoz and Poincenot in Fitzroy massif and Cerro Stanhardt and Torre Egger located in Cerro Torre massif.

  • Kearney, Alan: Mountaineering in Patagonia. Cloudcap, 1998. Isbn: 9780938567301.
  • Fitzroy is the highest mountain in the Patagonia located 3 km NE from Cerro Torre.
  • First ascent was made in 1952 by a French expedition led by M.A. Azema via SE face. His book 'The Conquest of Fitzroy' recounts the ascent.
    California Route (SW Ridge)
    • Possibly the easiest route.