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South America

General

Southern America is dominated by the chain of Andes that stretches from the southern tip of Argentina and Chile to the northern part of Columbia. Best known climbing areas are the mountains around Aconcagua and Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes and Patagonia in the southern end of the range.

Northern Andes of Venezuela, Columbia and Ecuador are divided into several ranges; Venezuealan Andes are concentrated around Sierra Nevada National Park, Columbian Andes consist of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the extreme north of the country, further south, the Eastern, Central, and Western Cordilleras are parallel north-south ranges. Eastern and Western Cordilleras continue through Ecuador as well. There are also several isolated volcanic peaks. Most popular climbing peaks are Chimborazo (6310m) and Cotopaxi (5897m) in Ecuador.

Peru is home to some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. These are high mountains with steep granite peaks, rising above icy ridges and twisted glaciers. The snow and ice on the ridges is often beautifully sculpted, carrying large and complex cornices. The Peruvian Andes are divided into ranges of Cordillera Blanca in the western (or coastal) part of Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Cordillera Central, Cordillera Occidental and Cordillera Oriental. Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash offer t?e most popular climbs, Huaraz in the more accessible Cordillera Blanca being the mecca of Andinism. Among the attractions are 5947m high picturesque Alpamayo that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world and the highest mountain of the Range, Huascaran. There are several other mighty mountains, such as Artesonraju, Taulliraju, Charcraraju and Tocllaraju. Cordillera Huayhuash resembles the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, although the peaks of Huayhuash are generally lower but technically more difficult. The highest peak in the area is Mount Yerupajá (6634m); followed by Yerupajá Chico (6121m); Jirishanca (6094m); Siulá Grande (6344m); Rondoy (5879m); Ninashanca (5807m) and Rasac (6017m).

Bolivia's most distinctive geographical feature is the Altiplano, a high plateau contained between Cordillera Occidental in the west and Cordillera Oriental in the east. The highest of Bolivian ranges is Cordillera Real on the north of Altiplano. Many of Bolivia's mountains are volcanoes, best known among the climbers being Illimaní­, Huayna Potosi and Nevado Samaja.

Chile's 4000 miles of ocean shore are lined with low coastal mountains, behind and to the east of which quickly rise the much higher Andes that form the border between Argentina and Chile. This is where the highest mountain and propably the best-known climbing destination of South America, Aconcagua (or Cerro Aconcagua 6962m), is located. It is one of the seven summits. Normal routes are non-technical, the main difficulty is the height.

The southernmost 1500km of Chile and Argentina are known as Patagonia. It is famous for its wild landscape and notorious for its horrible conditions. There are two rugged and legendary mountains in the Patagonia Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m). The latter of the two was once held as the most difficult mountain to climb.

• Biggar, John: The Andes, 2nd edition. Andes, 1999. Isbn: 9780953608706.
• Biggar, John: The Andes - A Guide for Climbers, 3Rev Ed edition. Andes, 2005. Isbn: 9780953608727.
• Bonington, Chris & Salkeld, Audrey: World Mountaineering - The World's Greatest Mountains by the Worlds Greatest Mountaineers. Miller's Publications, 2006. Isbn: 1845331427.
• Harper, Kate; Pitkethly, Val & Saunders, Victor: Trekking and Climbing in the Andes (Globetrotter Adventure Guide). New Holland Publishers Ltd, 2002. Isbn: 9781859743911.
• Neate, Jill: Mountaineering in the Andes. Hyperion Books, 1993. Isbn: 9780907649649.
• Radehose, Eckehard: Traumberge Amerikas. Von Alaska bis Feuerland.. Bergverlag Rother, 2002. Isbn: 9783763330065.

• Andes Handbook. Information about various mountains and their routes. Check also Spanish version for more information. Includes very good photos with marked route lines.
• Andes website. Information Files on the Andes - Trekking, Climbing, Mountaineering and Skiing in South America. Good information by John Biggar, author of Andes guidebooks. Includes extensive mountains lists.

Northern Andes

Northern Andes of Venezuela, Columbia and Ecuador are divided into several ranges; Venezuealan Andes are concentrated around Sierra Nevada National Park, Columbian Andes consist of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the extreme north of the country, further south, the Eastern, Central, and Western Cordilleras are parallel north-south ranges. Eastern and Western Cordilleras continue through Ecuador as well. There are also several isolated volcanic peaks. By far the most popular climbing peaks are Chimborazo (6310m) and Cotopaxi (5897m) in Ecuador.

Ecuador is the main climbing attraction in northern Andes. Access is usually easy from Quito (many climbs are possible in a long weekend) and most popular areas have huts.

The mountains of Ecuador have a complicated weather pattern with two dry seasons; from June to July and December to January (neithor of which being completely dry). On some areas climbing is reasonable even at other times. March and May are to be avoided at all costs. Ecuador gets a lots of fresh snow. Eastern part of Ecuador is particularly affected by the proximity of Amazon, thus the area suffers a very wet climate.

• Brain, Yossi: Ecuador - A Climbing Guide. Menasha Ridge Press, 2000. Isbn: 9781871890136.
• Rachowiecki, Rob & Thurber, Mark: Ecuador, 5th - Climbing & Hiking, 5th edition. Bradt Travel Guides, 2004. Isbn: 9781841620756.

• The Andes mountains in Equador. Information about the Andes in Ecuador.

Western Cordillera

Western Cordillera include Chimborazo, the highest peak in Equador (6310m). Besides it, the main attraction for climbers is Illiniza with easy Norte (5116m) and moderately hard Sur (5305m, AD with ice up to 50°).

Eastern Cordillera

Eastern Cordillera includes classic glaciated volcanoes Cotopaxi (5897m), Tungurahua (F) and slightly more demanding Caymabe (PD (varies between F and AD depending on the conditions of last bbig crevasse), usually more demanding than Cotopaxi or Chimmborazo) and Antisana (PD). Perhaps the most interesting feature of the Eastern Cordillera is El Altar 5319m, the horseshow with several volcanic peaks. It is the only high peak in Eciador that is technically hard to climb (normal route AD/d with IV-V and 60°).

Isolated volcanoes

In addition to Cordilleras, Ecuador has three high isolated volcanoes: Reventador, Sumaco and Sangay. Sangay, located 40km south of El Altar is the most active volcano in Andes. The ascent of Saqngay is technically easy (PD?) but it is very dangerous due to volcanic eruptions.

Peru

Parallel Cordilleras Occidental, Central and Oriental run in the northern Peru. Of those only Occidental is interesting for the climbers. It is however, one of the premiere places for alpine climbing in the word as Cordilleras Blanca and Huayuhuash located in northern Peru are home to some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. These are high mountains with steep granite peaks, rising above icy ridges and twisted glaciers. The snow and ice on the ridges is often beautifully sculpted, carrying large and complex cornices. Cordillera Blanca in the western (or coastal) part of Northern Peru and Cordillera Huayhuash offer the most popular climbs. Together there are about 20 major mountains above 6000m, many of them count among the most beautiful and the hardest in the Andes.

Most of the climbing is on the snow or ice, on steep faces and sharp ridges that often build extensive cornices. North faces tend to have good snow and ice, at least until noon while south face often have unconsolidated powder. South American snow sticks to steeper slopes than in European Alps. Ridges are often beautiful with impressive double cornices. However because of this, they are very difficult and unjustifiably dangerous. Rock quality is generally poor.

Climbing season lasts from May to Semptember with June and July typically considered best months for climbing. The area has typically heavy rains from December to March and a markedly dry season from May to October. During this period the weather cycle is very stable with several days of good weather followed by one or two of bad. Within this period, sunny days may have temperatures of 25°C. There will normally be overnight frost anywhere above around 4500m. Snow line is around 5000m.

Several companies organize climbs and treks in Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash, especially on more accessible Cordillera Blanca. Mules (burro) are commonly used to transport gear to the base camp. It is usually possible to arrange them and muleteers (arrieros) in starting villages.

Cordillera Blanca

The Cordillera Blanca ("White Range") lies just 100km east of the Pacific Ocean. It is some 180 km long narrow chain of mountains running from north to south. It offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. The Cordillera Blanca contains more than 300 major summits, more than 31 of these rise over 6000 meters and further 30 are higher than 5700m. The highest peak, Huascaran offers fine climbing although it is one of the easiest 6000m peaks in the range. <<more>>.

Cordillera Huayhuash

Cordillera Huayhuash resembles the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, although the peaks of Huayhuash are generally lower but technically more difficult. Cordillera Huayhuash is also less accessible, approaches take normally at least 2-3 days from Chiquian, located to the NW side of the range (3400m), that is nearest convenient center of Cordillera Huayhuash. It can be reached by bus from Huaraz or directly from Lima. During the recent years the mining activity has opened new access to Llamac (3300m), a a village in NW closer to the Huayhuash and further to Matacancha. Few peaks are more conveniently accessed from Cajatambo (3375m) in southwest (direct buses from Lima). <<more>>.

Southern Peru

Around and to the south of the city of Cuzco in southern Peru lie several small wild and little explored mountain ranges. Best known of these ranges are Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera Villabamba and Cordillera Urubamba (all belong to Cordillera Oriental). The peaks are heavily glaciated and wild in nature, there are few easy routes. The ranges are typically difficult to access. Because of the difficulty of the access the area sees few climbers, even the most popular peaks Ausangate (6384m) and Salcantay (6264m) are nowhere near as frequented as the peaks of Cordillera Blanca and even to Cordillere Huayhuash. Ancient Inca capital Cuzco (3310m) is usually Cuzco is typically reached by plane from Lima (several flight daily). Another possibilty would be to take a bus but is is very long (33h).

Climbing season lasts from May to August. Proximity to Amazon makes the area more prone to wetter and less stabile weather than the ranges in northern Peru. Usually 2-3 days of bad weather per week must be endured. Storms are possible even during the dry season. Freezinfg temperatures are encountered at the altitude of 4000m during the season while snow line lies at approximately 5000m. Western and southern slopes have more snow and ice while eastern and northerns slopes are more rocky.

The highest peak in Central and southern Peru is Ausangate (6384m), 4th highest peak in Peru and 17th in the Andes. It is located in Cordillera Villanota in central Peru. The area has become more popular trekking area during the recent years which has opened up the access. Access is via Tinqui (3800m, 5h from Cuzco by car). Besides Ausangate most prominent peaks include Mariposa (5808m), Callangate (6110m), Jatunhuma 6093m), Jatunriti (6106m) and Yayamari (6049m).

Coldillera Villabamba is ancient Inca country. Well known Machu Picchu is located here. The highest peak of the area is Salöcantay (6264m). Humantauy (5917m) is another important peak.

• Cordillera Vilcanota
• Cordillera Vilcanota schematic map
• Cordillera Villabamba
• PIGM: 28-t (Ocongate), 1:50.000.
• PIGM: 2344 (Machupicchu), 1:100.000.

Bolivia

Bolivia's most distinctive geographical feature is the Altiplano, a high plateau contained between Cordillera Real in the North, Cordillera Occidental in the west and Cordillera Oriental in the east. Cordillera Real is by far most interesting for the climbers. Mountains in Cordillera Apolobamba and Cordillera Real are mostly heavily glaciated and alpine in nature. Cordillera Occidental has isolated volcanoes that are usually easilu climbable. The Capital city La Paz (3510m) lies on the Altiplano, very close to Cordillera Real, thus serving as a good base.

Most favorable weather can be expected during the winter (April - October), usually best months are May, June and July. Then the weather is dry and most stable in the Andes; usually only 3-4 bad days a month. Nights are bitterly cold. Due to low temperatures, avalanches are very rare during the season. Climbing is reasonable also later in a year (September and October, then much warmer temperatures. Cordillera Apolobabmba has wetter and less stable climate than the other areas.

The IGM (Instituto Geografico Militar) have produced most of the maps of Bolivia. On some areas other maps are available as well.

• Brain, Yossi & Thurman, Paula: Bolivia - a Climbing Guide. Mountaineers Books, 1999. Isbn: 9781871890488.
• Mesili, Alain: La Cordillera Real de los Andes-Bolivia (Coleccion Descubra Bolivia). Editorial Los Amigos del Libro, 1984. Isbn: 9788483700815.

Cordillera Apolobamba

On the border between Peru and Bolivia, north of lake Titicaca lies Cordillera Apolobamba. The range is not very popular among climbers, as the range is remote and access difficult. Base is the city of Pelechuco (3600m), located some 250km to the north of La Paz and 300km south of Cuzco (Pero). Access is usually by bus from La Paz (18-24h). There are a couple of peaks rising above 6000m, the highest of them being Chaupi Orco (6044m, PD). Other notable mountains include Ascarani (5580m) and Soral (5641m). The area is more glaciated and more prone to bad weather than other ranges in Bolivia.

• Climbing in Apolobampa. At Andes - Mesili.
• Introduction to Apolobamba. At Andes - Mesili.

Cordillera Real

The highest and most extensive of Bolivian ranges is Cordillera Real on the north of Altiplano, just northeast the city of La Paz and southeast of lake Titicaca. The area is mostly easily accessible from Las Paz and is by far the most popular range in Bolivia, especially the southern part. Best known climbing destinations of the range are Illampu (6368m) and Ancohuma (6427m) in the northern part, Condoriri (5650m), Huayna Potosi (6088m) and Illimani (6438m). Northern part has more spectacular and difficult peaks.

• 0/8 (Cordillera Real Nord), 1:50.000. DAV.
• (Cordillera Real Sud). DAV.
• map of Cordillera Real
• BIGM: 5846 I (Sorata), 1:50.000.

• Climbing in Cordillera Real. At Andes - Mesili.

Northern Cordillera Real

Northernmost part of Cordillerta Real reminiscent somewhat Peruvian Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru with steep fluted faces of ice and snow. The area has more than 30 peaks rising above 5000m. Main climbing goals of this area are Ancohuma (6427m) and Illampu (6368m). The latter of which is considered to be the most difficult high peak in Bolivia (AD/D on the normal route along W Ridge; there are many harder routes). Illampu–Ancohuma massif has the greatest number of technical routes in Bolivia. The area is located southeast of the city of Sorata (2700m), that is the base of the climbs is this area. Sorata is accessed from La Paz, 5h.

Further south of Sorata group lies Nevado Chearoco (6150m) and Nevado Chachacomani (6100m). These can be reached from La Paz via Copacabana and Amahuayna Pass (5120m) to Llocolloni valley. Both peaks can be climbed from a camp at Leche Khota lake (4650m). Still further south, north of Condoriri group, lie Jankho Lay and Nigruni groups

Condoriri group

In the central part of the chain lies Condoriri group with Condoriri (Cabeza del Condor, 5650m) and Pequeno Alpamayo (5400m). Condoriri is considered to be one of the most beautiful peaks in the Andes. Normal route along SW Ridge is very popular (AD). The group is accessed from Estacio Tuni (4400m). From there ist is 2h hike to the base camp by Lago Chiar-cota at 4700m.

• Cabeza de Condor (Condoriri Group). Group page. At SummitPost.

Southern Cordillera Real

Southern part of the Cordillera Real is located very close to the city of la Paz. Iilimani (6438m), located at the southern end of the Cordillera Real the highest peak of the range and the second highest peak in Bolivia. Huayna Potosi (6088m) is located at the northern end of the chain, just south of Condoriri group. it is supposedly the easiest 6000m peak in Bolivia. Lower Charquini (5392m) shares the same camp is thus popular as acclimatization climb.

Cordillera Occidental

Cordillera Occidental is located close to Chilean border extending from southern Peru in the north to the Puna de Atacama in the south. It is a range of isolated volcanic peaks, that rise from the high plateau (4220-4400m). Almost all of them are easy to climb. Here lies the highest peak of Bolivia, Nevado Sajama (6542m). Access to the range can be problematic and water supplies are scarce as only the highest peaks have permanent snowfields or glaciers. The climate is dry, thus climbing is reasonable year round. Access is from Arequipa (2325m) for the peaks in southern Peru (Coropuna (6425m), Solimana (6093m), Ampeta (6288m), Hualca Hualca (6025m), Chachani (6057,)), Arica (seal level) or Cabra (2350m) in Chile or from La Paz (3700m) in Bolivia (via villaga Sajama, 5h) (Sajama 6542m, Parinacota 6300m).

Puna de Atacama & High Andes

Chile's 4000 miles of ocean shore are lined with low coastal mountains, behind and to the east of which quickly rise the much higher Andes that form the border between Argentina and Chile. In the Northern Chile and Argentina lie the high plateau of Puna de Atacama. South of the Puna lies High Andes. This is where the highest mountain and propably the best-known climbing destination of South America, Aconcagua (or Cerro Aconcagua 6962m), is located.

Puna de Atacama

Puna de Atacama is high plateau (4000m) in northern Chile reaching from southern Bolivia to NW Argentina. The area has over 30 major peaks rising above 6000m and 6 of 10 highest peaks n the Andes. However, the mountains in Puna de Atacama are not nearly as majestic in shape as lower mountains of Cordillera Blanca or Cordillera Huayhuash or rock towers of Patagonia. Normally there's at least one non-technical route (F). Several of the peaks in Puna de Atacama were climbed already by the Incas. Best known peaks include Nevado Pissis (6882m), Ojos del Salado (6864m), Bonete (6748m), Nevado Tres Cruces (6748m) and Cerro Llullaillaco (6739m).

Several of the mountains can be accessed either from Chile or from Argentina. Main starting points are Calama (Chile) for NW areas, Salta (Argentina) for NE areas, Copiapó (Chile) or Catamarca (Argentina) for SW areas (Ojos del Salado) and La Rioja (Argentina) for SE areas (pissis, Bonete).

Climate is typically cold (down to minus 20 in the high mountains). Puna de Atacama is very dry, there are several 6000m peaks with no permanent snow or glaciers. Climbing is reasonable all year round. However, October and March are propably the best months.

• Mountaineering and Climbing in Chile. Information about activities, expeditions, tours, related to mountains and climbing in Chile.

High Andes

High Andes lie further south on the border between Chile and Argentina. The highest peak of the group, Aconcagua (6960m) is the highest peak of South-America. Normal route is glacier free and non-technical, because of this and the height, it is very popular. Also Polish glacier route is reasonably popular. Other than Aconcagua, High Andes is not particularly popular among the climbers. However, several lower groups (Loma Larga, Vellecites) have alpine peaks with sharp ridges and ice faces.

Access is typically either from Buenos Aires in Argentina with flights to Mendoza (Aconcagua) or San Juan (Mercedario) or from Santiago (Chile).

Climate is typically cold (down to minus 20 in the high mountains). In High Andes, season lasts from december to March. During that time the weather is dry and stable. Especially the northern part is very dry. High Andes is windy, specially Aconcagua is notorious for the winds. Snow line lies at 5500m in the northern areas and at 4500m around Santiago.

• map of Aconcagua
• detailed map of Aconcagua
• schematic map of Aconcagua
• schematic map of Aconcagua

Patagonia & Southern Andes

The southernmost 1500km of Chile and Argentina are known as Patagonia. It is famous for its wild landscape with snow covered volcanoes, sharp granite spires and vast ice fields. Patagonia is also notorious for its horrible conditions.

Best known climbing objectives in Patagonia are located in Los Glaciares National Park. Here lie Fitzroy massif and Cerro Torre Massif, both not too far away from village of El Chalten, which is accessible from Rio Gallegos, the main city in southern Argentina. Name sakes of the two massifs, Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m) are both legendary mountains offering very difficult climbs on steep rock and ice. Another notable peaks of the area are Mermoz and Poincenot in Fitzroy massif and Cerro Stanhardt and Torre Egger located in Cerro Torre massif.

Other areas in Patagonia that see climbing activity are Paine National Park (Parque Nacional Torres del Paine), located about 160 kilometers south of the Fitzroy/Cerro Torre group in Chile and to some extent, Terra del Fuego.

• Kearney, Alan: Mountaineering in Patagonia. Cloudcap, 1998. Isbn: 9780938567301.

• Montañismo. topos of climbs in Patagonia and Argentina. At Al Borde.
• Patagonia. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Patagonia climbing guide. mirror. By Marco Durá & Guillermo Durá.

Los Glaciares National Park

Best known climbing objectives in Patagonia are located in Los Glaciares National Park. Here lie Fitzroy massif and Cerro Torre Massif, both not too far away from village of El Chalten, which is accessible from Rio Gallegos, the main city in southern Argentina. Name sakes of the two massifs, Fitzroy (3440m) and Cerro Torre (3127m) are both legendary mountains offering very difficult climbs on steep rock and ice. Another notable peaks of the area are Mermoz and Poincenot in Fitzroy massif and Cerro Stanhardt and Torre Egger located in Cerro Torre massif.

• Kearney, Alan: Mountaineering in Patagonia. Cloudcap, 1998. Isbn: 9780938567301.

• (Monte Fit Roy cerrro Torre Trekking-Mountaineering), 1:50.000.
• El Chalten (Cerro Torre, Fitroy)
• schematic map

• Los Glaciares National Park. Area page. At SummitPost.

Torres del Paine

Other areas in Patagonia that see climbing activity are Paine National Park (Parque Nacional Torres del Paine), located about 160 kilometers south of the Fitzroy/Cerro Torre group in Chile and to some extent, Terra del Fuego.

• Kearney, Alan: Mountaineering in Patagonia. Cloudcap, 1998. Isbn: 9780938567301.

• Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

• Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Area page. At SummitPost.