Other regions
Africa
Northern Africa
Atlas mountains are the most northernly and the highest of the mountains in northern Africa. The broken chain of Atlas extends for over 1500km across Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. Highest mountains are located in High Atlas, the western part of the range. Despite a scarcity of roads, most of the major mountains are easily accessible. The approach to the mountains is short, and there are mountain huts, plenty of guides, good trails, and mules to carry gear.
The highest mountain of northern Africa is Toubkal (4165m), located only 75km south of the city of Marrakech. It dominates the area with its steep rocky faces, and is surrounded by massive granite buttresses and several secondary peaks. There are several other mountains rising to around 4000 meters.
The summers of the area are hot and harsh while winter snows are very heavy. The high peaks maintain their snow caps for much of the year, but there are no glaciers. The two best climbing seasons are in the winter/spring period, from February to May, when snow is still present but temperatures are comfortable; and in early Autumn (September), when the mountains are dry and the weather is cool again before winter storms return.
- The highest mountain in northern Africa.
- Located 60km south of Marrakech
- First recorded ascent by V. Berger, H. Dolbeau & Marquis de Segonzac 02.06.1923. However, it is likely that Toubjkal has been climbed long before by local people.
- Jbel Toubkal
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
- From Refuge du Toubkal 3207m to a hanging valley, then breaks right towards a Col, Tiz n’ Toubkal (3940m, 2-2,5h from the hut) and takes easy slopes up to a final narrow crest and the small summit plateau. 3-4h from the hut. F.
- Normal Route/Ikhibi Sud
- Route page at SummitPost.
- Climbing in Morocco - Gorges du Todra
- At PlanetMountain.com.
- Morocco - climbing at the end of the road
- By Sarah Harrison. At PlanetFear.com.
East Africa
Mountain climbing in the Africa is dominated by two highest mountains, Kilimanjaro (5895m) and Mount Kenya (5199m). Albeit lower, Mount Kenya has more to offer for climbers. While Kilimanjaro offers easy hiking trail to the highest summit, reaching the highest point of Mount Kenya requires technical rock or ice climbing. Most of the people visiting Mont Kenya don't go beyond the trail end at Point Lenana (4985m).
Besides rock routes, both Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya have several ice climbs, most famous of them Diamond Couloir and slightly easier Ice Windows on Mount Kenya. On Kilimanjaro, probably the best known climbing routes are Heim Glacier and Breach Wall Direct. Melting of the glaciers has deteriorated the conditions off all ice climbs in Africa.
Kilimanjaro, an extinct volcano, is located on the border of Tanzania and Kenya, just 3° south of the equator. It is the highest mountain in Africa (and thus one of the seven summits) and is also considered to be the highest free standing mountain (that is to say that it is not part of the any mountain range). Kilimanjaro has several summits. Uhuru Peak is the highest point on Kibo, the main pudding shaped elevation. Mawenzi (5149m) is more jagged and separated from Kibo by The Saddle, a flat semi-desert area extending for 5km. Rock quality on both of these summits is poor.
Normal routes on top of Kilimanjaro involve no climbing (there are 7 hiking routes, some of them feature scrambling). However, there are also several climbing routes. Best known of them are propably Heim Glacier and Breach Wall Direct on the south-west face of Kibo. The whole face is steep and heavily glaciated, extending for 5km and broken only by one easy passage - The Western Breach.
- First ascent by Hans Meyer and Ludwig Purtscheller in 1889.
- Kilimanjaro Climbing and Walking Guide
- Includes general information and route description and topos about the most important routes. Part of East Africa Climbing Guide. Excellent site, absolute must.
- Get there before it is gone
- No Snows on Kilimanjaro. By David Tenenbaum.
- Kilimanjaro
- By Bernd Busam.
- Kilimanjaro
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
- Starting from the Marangu Gate (1980m) a wide path to the Mandara Hut, 2700m (4h). Shortly after leaving the Mandara Hut the forest gives way to giant heather, then moorland; the roomy Horombo huts are situated in this zone at 3700m (5h). Higher up the vegetation thins and the last water trickle is passed. The path continues to the gravelly Saddle which is crossed at length to the Kibo Huts (4703m), situated below the Kibo scree slopes (5h). Starting well before dawn, climb the tedious scree to the crater rim and Gillman's Point (5680m) (5h). Now more easily along the crater rim for about 1.5km to Uhuru Peak (1h30).
- Kilimanjaro
- By Bernd Busam.
- From the Park Post (1900m) a well marked path to Machame huts (5h). Above, cross a small valley and up ridges and through heather with occasional scrambling to head of a river valley. Traverse west across this then continue north to the Shira Hut (3800m, 5h). The damaged Lava Tower Hut is reached by a well-cairned trail leading east (3,5h).
- Machame
- Route page at SummitPost.
Mount Kenya is the second highest mountain in Africa. It is an isolated stratovolcano which dominate the horizons from the plains of Central Kenyan highlands, towering just seventy miles north of Nairobi, and ten miles south of the Equator. The summit region is a series sharp ridges interpersed with glaciers. Two main summits, twin rock towers of Batian (5199m) and Nelion (5188m), are separated by tha Gate of the Mists (5144m). There are several subsidiary summits around the two main peaks.
The third highest peak, Point Lenana (4985m), is acccessible to hikers and is ascended by hundreds of people each year. Numerous excellent rock and ice routes lead to two highest summits, all of them featuring technical climbing. Many of these generally require a bivouac, satellite peaks such as Point John offer fine one day climbs.
The rock of Mount Kenya is mostly syenite, a superb rough rock for climbing. The most popular route is the McInder on the South-East Face. Normal route on the North Face is longer and more difficult. There are several other rock routes on the ridges and faces, West Ridge is reputed to be the finest mountaineering route on Mt Kenya, while Diamond Buttress Direct is a classic hard route.
Despite being located close to Equator, Mount Kenya has several glaciers. There are two legendary ice climbs on the South Face. 1000 meter long Diamond Couloir (TD) is harder and more famous of the two while Ice Window (AD+/D) is shorter and easier. When in proper condition, South Face route provides the easiest way (PD+/AD) to the Gate of Mists.
Best Climbing Months for rock climbs are January and February (dry season on South side) and August and September (dry season on North side). The best conditions for snow/ice on the south face occur between mid May and late October. Like all glaciers in Africa, those on Mount Kenya are in retreat. Because of this, the ice climbs are not in condition every year.
- First Ascent of Batian: Halford J. MacKinder, C. Ollier & J. Brocherel in 1899
- First Ascent of Nelion: E. E. Shipton & P. Wyn Harris in 1929
- Mount Kenya Climbing and Walking Guide
- Includes general information and route description and topos about the most important routes. Part of East Africa Climbing Guide. Excellent site, absolute must.
- Facing Mount Kenya
- Mount Kenya
- Mount Kenya at SummitPost.
- Rock climb with difficulty up to VI+/VII or A1. NCCS alpine VI.
- 450m, 15h
- First ascent by D J Temple & I F Howell in 1976.
- A classic ice route on the South-West Face, alpine TD with IV/WI4+ and V-.
- 1000m (15-18 roped pitches), 9h from Darwin Glacier to Gate of Mists.
- First Ascent by P Snyder & T Mathenge in 1973 (avoiding headwall by ramp on the left). First ascent through the headwall by Y Chouinard & M Covington in 1975.
- Ice climb on the South Face through Diamond Glacier to Gate of Mists, AD+/D, ice up to IV/WI3-4 in the narrow gully.
- 400m, 6h from Darwin Glacier to Gate of Mists.
- First ascent by P Snyder, Y Laulan & S LeDain in 1973.
- Extracts from Newsletter 11
- Mount Kenya's Ice window
- Normal route. Alpine D- (NCCS IV 5.7) with rock climbing up to IV. Most of the climbing is I/II, with pitches of III+/IV-. Traverse to Batian via Gate of Mists up to III+ and steep snow.
- UIAA IV- (YDS 5.7), mostly III and II.
- 300m (20 pitches), 5h to Nelion, rountrip to Batian additional 3h.
- First Ascent by E Shipton & P Wyn Harris in 1929.
- The easiest and most popular rock route on Batian between June and October.
- IV+/YDS 5.8
- 550m, 10h.
- First ascent by A H Firmin & P Hicks in 1944.
- rarely slimbed route that is reputed to be the finest on Mount Kenya. D-.
- V-.
- 350m from Firmin Col, 9h
- First ascent by E.E.Shipton, H.W.Tilman in 1930.
- Mount Meru
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
- Mount Meru
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
- : The Mountain Club of Kenya Guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro. Mountain Club of Kenya, 1998. Isbn: 9966 986 0 3.
- : Kilimanjaro & Mount Kenya - A Climbing and Trekking Guide. Cordee. Isbn: 1871890985.
- : East Africa International Mountain Guide. West Col, 1986. Isbn: 0906227291.
- East Africa Climbing Guide
- Plenty of information about the mountains and routes. Includes the most significant mountains of Eastern Africa. A truly indespensible site.
Southern Africa
Mulanje is a large granite massif in Malawi, a small African nation, situated snugly between southern Tanzania, northeastern Zambia, and Northern Mozambique. The massif rises abruptly from the surrounding plain, and reaches its highest point of 300m in Sapitwa Peak. Mulanje has a well organized system of trails and huts, leading through forests of large cedar trees.
Drakensberg is a major escarpment of South Africa, stretching for hundreds of miles along the southeastern edge of the vast interior plateau. For much of their length, the mountains are capped by a thick layer of basaltic lava, which has been heavily eroded over the centuries, leaving a bewildering assortment of rugged blocks and pinnacles. Erosion has caused the isolation of many free-standing rock peaks, excellent for rock climbing. The mountains are typically covered with snow and ice in Winter.
The highest peaks and most spectacular scenery are found in a compact area along the 90-mile boundary between Lesotho and Natal provinces. Here crags and pinnacles tower above sandstone foothills and rolling grasslands. Some of the more popular climbing peaks are Mont-aux-Sources (3282m), Monk's Cowl (3234m) and Cathedral Peak (3004m).
Large and flat-topped Table mountain (1087m) is located southwestern corner of Africa, close to Cape Town. Its deeply scarred and craggy sandstone cliffs are one of the most popular climbs in the world, and there are over 500 documented routes to the top, many of them serious technical climbs.
Madagascar is a large island in the Indian ocean, 380km off the southeast coast of Africa. Its narrow coastal plain rises to a high mountainous plateau in the island's center. The mountains' granite peaks rise above grasslands and cultivated slopes and valleys. Highest mountains are Maromokotro (2876m), Ankaratara (2643m) and Pic Boby (2658m). Towns and villages are scattered throughout the mountains, predominantly inhabited by native islanders known as the Malagasy. Also Réunion Island has high mountains.
- The highest mountain in South-Africa
- Thabana Ntlenyana
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
- Located close to Cape Town.
- Extremely popular climbing peak. There are hundreds of routes.
- Table Mountain
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
Oceania
East India
The Indonesian archipelago streches for almost 5000km from the Asian mainland into the Pacific Ocean and consists of 13,000 plus islands. The most famous climbing destination in East India is Carstenz Pyramid (5029m) located in Eastern Indonesia. The second highest peak of the area is Kerinci (3805m) in Sumatra. Most high peaks are volcanoes.
The area has plenty of warm weather and steep rock, thus the emerge of rock climbing routes is pretty much inevitable. Especially Thailand has plenty of established areas. Especially popular is Phra-Nang Peninsula in Southern Thailand.
- Climbing in Thailand
- Information about climbing in Thailand and SE Asia.
- Highest mountain of Oceania, located in the easternmost province of Indonesia.
- Some climbers regard Carstenz Pyramid to be the true highest point of Oceania and thus one of the seven summits instead of much lower and easier Mount Kosciusko.
- First ascent by a party led by Heinrich Harrer in 1963. Harrer's book 'I Come from the Stone Age' describes the ascent.
- Carstenz Pyramid
- Carstenz Pyramid at Peakware.
- Carstenz Pyramid
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
- Rock climbing through the series of gullies on the north face with short crux at 5.8, mostly 5.4-5.5 and scrambling. After the summit ridge is gained after ~5000m of climber, half a kilometer traverse to summit. NCCS alpine grade IV-VI, Russian alpine grade 5A. Access to mountain takes 5-6days of hiking.
- First ascent by a party led by Heinrich Harrer in 1963.
- Normal route
- Route page at SummitPost.
New Zealand
Southern Alps on the South Island of New Zealand extends entire length of the Island and are known for their beauty and wild nature. The Southern Alps are a very young range, still actively being uplifted. This, combined with high precipitation on its western side and high erosion rates, results in very dynamic landscapes. The range is a collection of permanently snow and ice-clad summits, heavily crevassed glaciers and spires and ridges of shattered rock. These qualities make Southern Alps one of the best alpine climbing areas in the world.
The range divides the island climatically: along the island's west coast, a wall of high peaks rises steeply, battered by extremely heavy winds and rain. Fierce, sudden storms often last for days, and northwest winds are generally so strong that climbs requiring bivouacs are rarely attempted. The best season for climbing runs from December through February while the season for alpine rock routes is between January and May. Eastern slopes and Canterbury Plains are much drier.
The mountain chain is generally totally unpopulated except for the three small alpine villages, of Lewis Pass, Arthur's Pass and Mt Cook. The only roads are those crossing the three main Passes and the access road to Mt Cook village. Climbing in the Southern Alps is serious, with often long approaches (helicopters are widely used). There are several tramping and mountaineering huts. Although the mountains are not that high when compared with some other ranges, they are located close to sea. Thus the actual altitude difference from the base of the climb is often big. This may well necessiate bivouac en route.
- New Zealand Alpine Regions
- Information about the climbing areas in the Southern Alps. At New Zeland Alpine Club
- Weather
- At New Zeland Alpine Club
Mount Cook Area
Mount Cook area is by far the most popular among the climbers. The area contains 29 peaks over 3000 metres, with an exemption of Mount Aspiring (3027m), all other high mountains are located in Mt Cook area. Some of the routes in the area are very challenging and there are some large glaciers, spectacular ice falls and immense high altitude snow fields. Most of the climbs are on ice with the best rock being found on Malte Brun and Hicks.
The highest mountain of the range, Mount Cook (also known as Aoraki) is 3753m high and has several classic routes, the easiest (although not easy) and most popular being Linda Glacier graded at NZ3/3+ (approximately European AD). There are several more demanding routes on the ridges and faces of the mountain. Mount Tasman with classics Silberhorn Arete and Balfour Face, Malte Brun, Mount Hicks and Mount Haidinger are also popular.
Mount Cook village is the closest village. It is possibly to arrenge a fly-in from there to several predefined spots in the mountains.
Mueller glacier area is the most accessible as it is located immediately to the west of Mount Cook Village. Especially Sealy Range with Mt.Sealy (2627m) is popular. Most routes on the area are relatively easy, so the area is suitable for the first-time visitors. There are also several longer and more difficult climbs on south faces and on Main Divide.
Hooker valley is one of the most spectacular ones in the area. Climbs in the upper valley tends to be both difficult and serious, while lower part of the valley easier routes. Access to Hooker Hut (1140m) takes 3-4h from the valley. Gardiner (1755m, 6-8h from the village) and Empress (2516m, 9-11h) Huts are important bases in the upper valley, access to which involves some objective danger. Flying is not permitted in the valley.
Main climbing destinations from the valley are western routes of Mount Cook (Sheila Face, Hooker ans South Faces, Earle's Route, Porter Col to name a few), Mount Dampier (3440m) and South Face of Mount Hicks (3198m).
From the Hooker valley, smaller Strauchon (Baker Saddle 2192m, NZ 2) and inaccessible La Perouse Glaciers (Harper saddle, 2585m, NZ 3-) can be reached. Access to La Perouse valley can also be made from Cook river (2-3 days) or from Tasman Valley (~NZ 3-). Strauchon valley offers access to climbs on Mount la Perouse and Dilemma (2602m), while la Perouse glacier has Mount la Perouse, north face of Mount Hicks, Mount Drake (2960m), Magellan (3049m) and Mount Dampier/Rakiroa (3440m).
Tasman valley offers probably the best scope for general mountaineering. Lower Tasman Valley can be accessed from the village by car (Ball Shelter, 1020m, 2h from the road end). Most climbs here are not too difficult. However, there are exceptions, most notably 2000m Carolina Face of Mount Cook, the highest face of the range. Further up the valley, Grand Plateau area has host of long and demanding snow and mixed climbs. As the area provides easiest access to Aoraki/Mount Cook, is is very popular. Plateau (2210m) and Haast (1980m) huts are located here. Access to them takes 6-10h from Ball Shelter, many climbers also choose to fly in.Most popular climbs are Linda Route on Aoraki, Silberhorn Arete ans Syme Ridge on Mount Tasman, Mount Haast (3114m) and Mount Dixon (3004m). Upper Tasman valley has long snow and mixed climbs on the Main Divide, such as Douglas Peak (3077m), Walter Peak (2905m) and Elie de Beaumont (3109m). Malte Brun (3199m) range on the east on the other has mainly rock climbs. Murchinson valley to the east of Malte Brun provides access to climbs in the less visited Eastern Tasman.
Remote Balfour glacier is probably most often accessed from Grand Plateau over Silberhorn. Most famous climb of the valley is Balfour Face of Mount Tasman. Other highlights include very difficult rock routes of Mount Drake (2974m), Mount Magellan and Torres (3165m).
Spencer glacier, Franz Josef glacier (Centennial hut, 2400m) and Fox glaciers (Pioneer hut, 2380m, 10-13h from Fox glacier road) are located to the north of Main Divide. Especially Fox glacier is quite popular with several demanding routes. Many climbers choose to fly in. Most popular climbs include North Shoulder of Mount Tasman (3497m), Torres Peak (3160m, traverse Torres - Tasman is a classic), Douglas Peak (3087m), Mount Haast (3114m), Haidinger (3070m) ans south faces of Mallory and Barnicoat.
- Guidebook: Palman Alex: The Aoraki Mount Cook Guidebook. New Zealand Alpine Club 2001.
- Maps: Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Area map or NZMS260 sheets H35, H36, I35, I36
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- Mount Cook National Park
- Good site with plenty of fine photos and information about the climbing. By Jonathan Carr.
- New Zealand Mountaineering
- Introduction to climbing possibilities of Mount Cook area. At Cosley & Houston.
- Climbing in New Zealand
- Trip report with information about several routes. By Guillaume Dargaud.
- Climbing in New Zealand, part 2
- Trip report with information about several routes. By Guillaume & Jennifer Dargaud.
- Mount Cook (or Aorangi, Maori for "cloud piercer") is the highest mountain of New Zealand's wild Southern Alps.
- Its European name was bestowed in 1851, in honour of Captain James Cook.
- The true summit collapsed in 1991, thus the mountain is now few meters lower than it used to be (which tells a lot about the quality of the rock in the area).
- Mount Cook is a complex mountain with several summits, ridges and faces. Highest summit is North or High Peak (3754m with Middle Peak (3717m) to the south of main peak and Low Peak (3593m) further south being the two other main summits. 2000m high Carolina Face (SE) between East Ridge (of Middle Peak) and Zurbriggen (main NE Ridge) is propably the most striking feature. On the other side of the mountain Sheila (NW) and Hooker (SW) Faces are also very impressive.
- First ascent by George Graham, Jack Clark & Tom Fyfe 25.12.1894 via North Ridge.
- Mt Cook at PeakBagger
- General information.
- Mount Cook
- Mount Cook at Summitpost.
- 2000m high ice route on the left side of SE Face, leading to Low Peak. threatened by ice fall danger. From Caroline hut (1800m). NZ 5.
- First ascent by Bill Denz in 1972.
- 2000m high ice route on the buress in the middle of SE Face. Threatened by ice fall danger. From Caroline hut (1800m). NZ 5.
- First ascent by John Glasgow & Peter Gough in 1970.
- Ice route on SW Face, NZ 4/4+. 1200m.
- Starting from Empress hut (2516m) on Empress Glacier, access to Upper Empress Shelf via via Earle’s Gap. 2-3 pitches mixed climbing at the bottom then 50° ice field direct to high peak.
- First ascent by Barcham, Herron, McCallum & Tornquist in 1956.
- NZ 4. Popular technical route on snow, ice and rock. Leads from the Grand Plateau (2210m) via East Ridge up the Middle Peak (3717m), from where a traverse along summit ridge to high peak and down via Linda Glacier route.
- First ascent by Dan Bryant & Lud Mahan in 01/1938.
- Mount Cook
- Photo report of ascent of East Ridge.
- Long, classic ridge traverse starting from Gardiner Hut (1760m) on Hooker glacier (SW side). To the summit ridge via Nortwest Couloir of Low Peak (3593m). From there traverse of the entire summit ridge over Middle Peak (3717m) to main summit and descent over Linda Glacier route to Plateau Hut (2200m). NZ5.
- Linda Glacier route is the easiest way to the summit. It goes through Tasman Glacier and Haast Ridge to Plateau Hut (2200m). From here the route ascends Linda glacier between Zurbriggen's and the North Ridges. It skirts beneath ice cliffs known as the "Gun barrels" (and joins Zurbriggen's ridge at the last band of rock known as the summit rocks (crux). The route sports over 3000 vertical metres from the road end. It has significant objective hazards, i.e. several corridors of ice avalanches have to be negotiated. NZ 3/3+ (approx AD on European Alpine grading) with steep glacier (40-45°).
- 1700m ascent from the Plateau Hut, 15-18h roundtrip.
- The usual practice is to get a small plane ride to the Plateau Hut at 2200 meters.
- First ascent by Jack Clarke, Jim Murphy, Hugh Chambers, & Hugh Wright in 1912.
- Aoraki/Mt.Cook
- Aoraki/Mt.Cook at Adventure Consultants.
- Mount Cook
- Includes route description of Linda Glacier route with route photo and general information about climbing of Mount Cook. Good page. At Alpine Guides.
- Linda Glacier Route Description
- at Alpinism & Ski Ltd.
- Mt Cook/Aorangi - Sea to summit
- Climbing the mountain starting from the sea. By John Henzell.
- From Plateau Hut (2200m) along Linda glacier to the Green's Saddle (3348m) between Mount Dampier (3409m) on the north and High Peak of Mount Cook on the south. From the saddle difficult climb along north ridge (loose rock) to summit. NZ 4. It is also possible to climb from Hooker valley to Green saddle.
- First ascent by Jacke Clarke, Tom Fyfe, & George Graham in 1894.
- Starting point Empress Hut (2516m). Challenging climbing through steep gullies on the South Face (Hooker Face) to Porter's Col (3545, NZ 3), the low point between the Low Peak (3593m) and Middle Peak (3717m). Then traverse over the Middle Peak to high summit. NZ 4-/4.
- Is often combined with descent over Linda Glacier to Grand Traverse.
- Mount Cook Adventures
- Photo trip report. At Cosley & Houston
- Snow, rock and ice. Rock often very loose. NZ 4-.
- First ascent by Harry Ayres, Ruth Adams, Ed Hillary & Mick Sullivan in 01/1948.
- From Gardiner Hut (1760m). 2000m. NZ 3+/4.
- First ascent by Peter Graham & Henrik Sillem in 03/1906 (First ascent of Low Peak).
- NZ 3+. The rocky main NE ridge leading from Tasman Glacier to the high peak. Starting point is Plateau Hut (2200m).
- The first solo ascent of Mt Cook was made via this route.
- First ascent by Edward Fitzgerald & Mattias Zurbriggen in 1895.
- Located toi the north of Mount Cook.
- Mount Tasman
- Includes route descriptions with route photos of North Shoulder and Silberhorn Arete routes and some general information about the climbing in the area. Good page. At Alpine Guides.
- Mount Tasman
- Mount Tasman at Summitpost.
- Classic ice climb in the center of SW Face. NZ 6 (IV/AI4), 600m.
- First ascent by Bill Denz & Bryan Pooley in 12/1971.
- VI WI6+, 600m.
- First ascent by Guy Cotter & Mark Sedon in 2003.
- NZ 6. VI, 600m/13 pitches. Reportedly harder than the original route.
- First ascent by Dignan & Fantini in 1986.
- The standard route on Mount Tasman starts from Pioneer Hut (2300m) following Albert Glacier to Marcel Col between Mount Lendenfield (3194m) on the west and Mount Haast and Mount Dixon on the east. From the col traverse Mount Lendenfeld and descend to Engineer Col and ascends steep the North Shoulder of Mount Tasman. NZ 3+.
- Classic ice route from Plateau Hut (2200m), most climbed route on Tasman. Technically more advanced than the North Shoulder route and regarded as one of New Zealand's finest climbs. From Grand Plateau via Silberhorn Ridge (ice up to 70°) to Silberhorn peak south of Tasman. From Silberhorn traverse to Tasman. NZ 3+ (Approximately European AD+/D). 1100m, 16-20h roundtrip.
- A Grand Day Out
- A Grand Day Out - in the Mt. Cook region, South Island, New Zealand. By Dave Dewar & John Mader.
- New Zealand's premier ridge traverse, varied climbing on an aesthetically beautiful ridge. Starting from Pioneer Hut (2300m) the route traverses the Fox Neve to Katies Col on NW of Tasman, then ascends Mt. Torres (3165m) via the West Ridge. From the summit of Torres a mixed exposed ridge is followed to the Torres/Tasman Col where a bivouac is normally necessary. From the col a gradually broadening ice arete leads to the summit of Mt Tasman. Descent is via the North Shoulder of Tasman back to Pioneer Hut. NZ5.
- The Torres-Tasman Traverse
- Photo trip report. At Cosley & Houston
- Torres-Tasman Traverse
- Route page at Aspiring Guides
- Located between Mount Hicks and High Peak of Mount Cook, separated from the latter by Green Saddle.
- From Linda Glacier via Green Saddle and steep rotten ridge. Also possible via rib on the right of Green Saddle. Possibly the best descent on the mountain. NZ 3.
- First ascent by Freda du Four &Peter Graham in 03/1912.
- Classic peak located opposite of Mount Cook on the east side of Tasman glacier.
- There are both rock and mixed routes and the rock is better than on most other mountains.
- Alpine Rock: Maltebrun
- Route page at Aspiring Guides
- Rock route along direct line to summit. Starting point ruins of Beetham hut (1100m) in Malte Brun Pass (the hut destroyed in an avalanche). NZ 3+ (AUS 14). 2400m.
- First ascent by A.C. rattray & J.C. Stamers-Smith in 12/1958.
- Clasic ascent, predominantly a rock climb but involves a traverse across the classic 'cheval' part of the ridge to the final summit slopes. Starting point ruins of Beetham hut (1100m) in Malte Brun Pass (the hut destroyed in an avalanche). NZ 3. 2400m.
- First ascernt by Hugh Chambers & Jack Clarke in 12/1912.
- From Bonney Glacier. Fast descent route but a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches. NZ 3.
- First ascent by F.McMahon, A Simpson & R.Yates in 12/1964.
- Ice route with only one or two steep pitches. NZ4, 700m.
- Located NW of Mount Cook, above Sheila and Empress glaciers.
- South Face has a number on steep ice routes.
- North Face has several rock routes between NZ 4 6+ (crux AUS 14-20).
- First ascent by Alex Graham, Henry Newton &R.J.Low in 1906 via West Ridge (largely destroyed).
- From harper saddle diagonally to the gap in West Ridge, then along the ridge and souloir to the summit. NZ 3.
- First ascent by George Lowe & Geof Milne in 01/1949.
- Classic ice route through central gullies of the leftern poart of South Face. Two first pitches of the original route have fallen off in 1999. Starting point is Empress hut (2516m). NZ 6, New Gunbarrels WI5-.
- First ascent by Bill Denz, Phil Herran & Murray Judge in 06/1975.
- First ascent of New Gunbarrels by John Clarke, Mike Brown, Matt Quirke & Kester Brown in 11/1999.
- Classic ice climb on South face, located between Gunbarrels and Left Buttress. Starting point is Empress hut (2516m). NZ 6+.
- First ascent by Nick Gradock & Tobin Sorensen in 08/1979.
- Classic mixed route on the prominent buttress in the middle of South face. NZ5+ (AUS 14/15; 5.9+)
- First ascent by Graeme Dingle & Murray Jones in 12/1970.
- First winter ascent by Bill McLeod in 06/1992.
- Northernmost 3000m peak New Zealand's, located at the head of the Tasman Glacier.
- There are two main summits, East summit at 3109m and West summit at 3059.
- From upper Tasman valley to the col between Mount Walter and Elie de Beaumont, from there along easy snow ridge to summit. NZ 2+
- First ascent by Peter Graham & Henrick Sillem in 02/1906.
- From Lendenfield saddle along ssharp and undulating ridge to upper Anna Plateau and further to the summit. NZ 3..
- First ascent by Mark Davidson, Rod Hewitt & Priestly Thompson in 01/1954.
- Sharp and very exposed ridge. NZ 3+
- First ascent by Mick Bowie & Colin Wyatt in 07/1936.
- Located NE of Mount Tasman and Pioneer Col.
- First ascent by T.C Fyfe & M. Ross in 1897.
- From Fox glacier along the neveNZ 3.
- 200m of scrambling (AUS 10; YDS 5.1), followed by 40° snow slopes and final exit gullies to south summit. NZ 3+.
- First ascent by Jim Jolly & John Stanton in 12/1969.
- First on rock (AUS 12; YDS 5.6), later 40° snow. NZ 4-.
- First ascent by Graeme Dingle, Peter Gough, George Harris, Murray Jones & J.Andrews in 12/1967.
Other areas
Besides Mount Cook area, other popular alpine climbing areas include Mount Aspiring, Arthur's Pass and Fiordland national parks. Especially piqturesque Mount Aspiring (sometimes referred to as the Matterhorn of the South) is very popular among the climbers. Besides the normal route along Northwest ridge, southwest ridge, often referred to as being the best climb in the Southern Alps, is popular. Mount Aspiring area also has a luxury of better weather than Mount Cook area.
North Island is comparatively hilly with a system on mountain ranges on the coast. Four volcanoes rise clearly above the others, the highest being Ruapehu at 2797m. Symmetrical pyramide of Mount Taranaki (2518m) in Egmont National Park is propably the best-known mountain of North Island among the climbers. South of South Island, the smaller Stewart Island is also mountainous, and is topped by Mount Anglem.
- Guidebook: Uren Allan & Watson Mark: The Mount nAspiring Ragion - a guide for mountaineers. New Zealand Alpine Club 2002.
- Arthur's Pass Mountaineering Guide
- Online version of the printed guidebook.
- Located some 150 km south of Mount Cook, Mount Aspiring is a classic pyramid shaped poeak, sometimes referred to as the Matterhorn of the Southern Alps.
- Bishop Graham: The Mount Aspiring Region. New Zealand Alpine Club.
- First ascen by Clarke, Head and Graham 23.11.1909 via West Face.
- Mount Aspiring
- Includes route descriptions with route photos of Northwest Ridge some general information. Good page. At Alpine Guides.
- Mt. Aspiring Climbs 2000-2002
- Expedition Gallery & Aspiring Notes. Includes thorough information about the historic ascents of about the various climbing routes. Very good page. By Geoff Wayatt.
- Moust Aspiring
- Mount Aspiring at SummitPost.
- Normal route starting from Colin Todd Hut (1220m). NZ 2+/3.
- There are two variations in the lower section; "The Ramp" on snow/ice (40-50°) and "Shipowners Ridge" (moderate mixed climbing).
- 1800m, 10-12h.
- First ascent by Samuel, Turner, Harold Hodgkinson, Jack Murrell & George Robertson 11.3.1913.
- Mt Aspiring
- Trip report Jan 20,2002. By Paul Doherty
- Classic. More difficult than the Northwest route. Long arete that finishes with steep gully (2 pitches) followed by two pitch ice face. NZ 3+ with ice up to 60-65°.
- 14-16h.
- First ascent by Harry Stevenson, Doug Dick & David Lewis in December 1936.
- Soggy Keas
- By Angus Dodd.
- Extinct volcano located on the Northern island.
- Sacred mountain of the Maoris.
- Mount Taranaki
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
Australia
For climbers looking for alpine climbing in Oceania, Australia is not the best place to go. Mountains are concentrated in southeast corner of the continent, between Melbourne and Sydney in the Australian Alps. The area is popular resort for both hiking and skiing. here lies the highest peak of Australia, Mount Kosciusko at 2228. From alpine climbers point of view, the best mountains of Australia bare located in Tasmania, just off the southeast coast of the Australian mainland. These craggy crests rise to 1600m above lush, practically impenetrable bush land. The highest peak of Tasmania is Mount Ossa (1617m). Tasmanian mountains are popular with extensive trails and excellent climbing. The weather, however, is frequently less attractive than the scenery, and you should expect heavy precipitation. The best time for hiking and climbing is December through March.
- Highest mountain in Australia lies in the Snowy Mountains.
- Often regarded as one of the seven summits. Although the status is dubious, as some people consider far higher and more difficult Carstenz Pyramid, located in East India, to be the highest mountain of Oceania.
- Mount Kosciusko
- Mount Kosciusko at Peakware.
- Mount Kosciusko
- Mount Kosciusko 2228m , Nov 18. 1994, Trip Report by Robert Broeking.
Antarctica
Getting access to the climbs in the Antarctica used to be extremely difficult, not to mention prohibitely expensive. Nowadays commercial expeditions are organised. Ellsworth Mountains, south of the Antarctic Peninsula is the best-known and the highest of the ranges. 5140m Mount Vinson is located in Sentinel Rangte of Ellsworth mountains. It is the highest peak of Antarctica and by far tyhe most climbed. Shinn, Mount Gardner and Mount Tyree are also occasionally climbed. Climbing is done during the Antarctis summer (december - february). Even then the average temperature is around -40°C.
- Located in the Ellsworth range, some 900 km away from the South Pole, Mount Vinson is the highest mountain of Antarctica and thus one of the seven summits.
- First climbed by Nick Clinch with conpagnions in 1966 (last of the seven summits).
- Mount Vinson
- Mount Vinson at Peakware.
- Mount Vinson
- Mountain page at SummitPost.
- Long glacier climb with no particular difficulties. From Branscombe glacier (Base Camp at 2134m) to the col between Vinson Massif and Mount Shinn. From there 5 km to the summit. Two or three high camps.
Greenland
Greenland is world's largest island and one of the least explored areas in the world. It is predominantly an ice cap with a rugged mountain chain which runs north to south up the East Coast. Greenland holds tremendous climbing potential for the future. Although several of the southern big wall arenas and alpine ranges have become increasingly popular there are still many unexplored regions even close to best known regions, not to mention about virtually unclimbed areas on northeast.
The highest ranges (Lemons, the Lindberghs, Watkins) are located on East Coast. Here lie Mount Gunnbjornsfjeld , the highest mountain in Greenland, is located on the central part of the East Coast approximately 45km from the coast.
South Greenland is rapidly becoming world famous for its big granite walls on peaks like Ketil and Ulamertorssuaq at the head of Tasermiut Fjord. Overshadowed by these few world class cliffs the climbing potential of the peaks in the rest of the region is rarely reported although the area between Tasermiut Fjord and Augpilatoq alone offers over 1000km2 of relatively accessible granite mountains rising with well-defended buttresses and faces from 1000m to 1500m out of the fjords. Every part of the region provides ranges of towers and spires equally impressive as the Chamonix Aiguilles.
- Big walls of Southern Greenland
- Ketil Fjeld, South Greenland, 1987. Article written and translated 1994.
- Greenland Climbing Guide
- At Sportextreme.com.
- Greenland Report
- By Matt Heason. At PlanetFear.com.
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