Other regions

Oceania

Mt. Cook, Mt. Tasman and Fox Glacier reflected in Lake Matheson. Source: . Credit: Andrew Turner,  Shot on 2011-12-14 Photo taken in , Mount Cook Village, Mackenzie District, New Zealand. (c) Andrew Turner, licensed under: CC BY 2.0.
Mt. Cook, Mt. Tasman and Fox Glacier reflected in Lake Matheson. Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aoraki_Mount_Cook,_Mount_Tasman_and_Fox_Glacier.jpg. Credit: Andrew Turner, Shot on 2011-12-14 Photo taken in , Mount Cook Village, Mackenzie District, New Zealand. (c) Andrew Turner, licensed under: CC BY 2.0.
Oceania consists of number of islands. The highest peaks are found on the islands of Indonesia, but most of them are of volcanic origin and not particularly attractive for mountaineers. There are, however, vast quantities of rock well suited for climbing. The mountains of southern island of New Zealand known as Southern Alps on the other hand as extremely alpine in nature. The range is a collection of permanently snow and ice-clad summits, heavily crevassed glaciers and spires and ridges of shattered rock. Despite the modest altitude, local relief is huge well comparable to many a lot higher ranges. These qualities make Southern Alps one of the best alpine climbing areas in the world.

East India

The Indonesian archipelago streches for almost 5000km from the Asian mainland into the Pacific Ocean and consists of 13,000 plus islands. The most famous climbing destination in East India is Carstenz Pyramid (5029m) located in Eastern Indonesia. The second highest peak of the area is Kerinci (3805m) in Sumatra. Most high peaks are volcanoes.

The area has plenty of warm weather and steep rock, thus the emerge of rock climbing routes is pretty much inevitable. Especially Thailand has plenty of established areas. Especially popular is Phra-Nang Peninsula in Southern Thailand.

  • Lightner Jr., Sam: Thailand - A Climbing Guide (Climbing Guides). Isbn: 9780898867503. Mountaineers Books, 2005.

Borneo

Mount Kinabalu (Gunung Kinabalu)6.083333116.554085
Crocker Range, Malaysia.

Mount Kinabalu is a prominent mountain on the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. It is located in the East Malaysian state of Sabah and is protected as Kinabalu Park, a World Heritage Site. Kinabalu is the highest peak in Borneo's Crocker Range and is the highest mountain in the Malay Archipelago as well as the highest mountain in Malaysia. Mount Kinabalu is also the 20th most prominent mountain in the world by topographic prominence.

Climbers must be accompanied by accredited guides at all times due to national park regulations. The peak itself is not particularly difficult climb. The mountain has apparently high standard rock climbing as international team lead by Yuji Hiarayama climbing on Kinabalu was featured on Reel Rock 2014.

1888-01-01
Mount Kinabalu, ,
First ascent
John Whitehead
  • World Mountaineering pp172-175
Normal route. hiking.

Papua New Guinea

Maoke range

Carstenz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya)-4.078889137.1583335029
Oceania, Indonesia, Sudirman Range. Highest mountain of Oceania, located in the easternmost province of Indonesia. Many climbers regard Carstenz Pyramid to be the true highest point of Oceania and thus one of the seven summits instead of much lower and easier Mount Kosciusko. First ascent by a party led by Heinrich Harrer in 1963. Harrer's book 'I Come from the Stone Age' describes the ascent.
  • World Mountaineering pp178-181
North face
Harrer. Rock, AD/nccs IV-VI 5.8/Rus 5A; 5.8, mostly 5.4-5.5/V. 1963-01-01First ascenta party led by Heinrich Harrer, 1963.
Normal route. Rock climbing through the series of gullies on the north face with short crux at 5.8, mostly 5.4-5.5 and scrambling. After the summit ridge is gained after ~5000m of climber, half a kilometer traverse to summit. .
Puncak Trikora4730
Puncak Mandala4640

Bismarck Range

Mount Wilhelm (Wilhelmsberg, Enduwa Kombuglu)-5.8145.0333334509
Papua New Guinea, Bismarck Range. Mount Wilhelm (German: Wilhelmsberg) is the highest mountain in Papua New Guinea at 4,509 metres (14,793 ft). It is part of the Bismarck Range and the peak is the point where three provinces intersect, Simbu, Western Highlands and Madang. The peak is also known as Enduwa Kombuglu in the local Kuman language, a Papuan language. The mountain is on the island of New Guinea, which incorporates Papua New Guinea and the Indonesian province of Papua. It is surpassed by Puncak Jaya, 4,884 m (16,024 ft), and several other peaks in Indonesian Papua. Some sources claim Mount Wilhelm, 4509 m (14,793 ft), as the highest mountain in Oceania (or Australia), on account of Indonesia being part of Asia (Southeast Asia). A Seven Summits list sometimes includes Mount Wilhelm. Mount Wilhelm is the most accessible mountain to climb in Papua New Guinea. Climbing the peak involves no more technical climbing than scrambling. There are two routes to the top. The most common route starts from the village of Keglsugl.
1838-08-01
Mount Wilhelm, ,
First ascent
Leigh Grant Vial & 2 locals
Normal route. hiking.

New Zealand

Southern Alps on the South Island of New Zealand extends entire length of the Island and are known for their beauty and wild nature. The Southern Alps are a very young range, still actively being uplifted. This, combined with high precipitation on its western side and high erosion rates, results in very dynamic landscapes. The range is a collection of permanently snow and ice-clad summits, heavily crevassed glaciers and spires and ridges of shattered rock. These qualities make Southern Alps one of the best alpine climbing areas in the world. <<more>>.

Australia

For climbers looking for alpine climbing in Oceania, Australia is not the best place to go. Mountains are concentrated in southeast corner of the continent, between Melbourne and Sydney in the Australian Alps. The area is popular resort for both hiking and skiing. here lies the highest peak of Australia, Mount Kosciusko at 2228. From alpine climbers point of view, the best mountains of Australia bare located in Tasmania, just off the southeast coast of the Australian mainland. These craggy crests rise to 1600m above lush, practically impenetrable bush land. The highest peak of Tasmania is Mount Ossa (1617m). Tasmanian mountains are popular with extensive trails and excellent climbing. The weather, however, is frequently less attractive than the scenery, and you should expect heavy precipitation. The best time for hiking and climbing is December through March.

Mount Kosciusko-36.455981148.2633332228
Oceania, Australia, Great Dividing Range. Highest mountain in Australia lies in the Snowy Mountains. Often regarded as one of the seven summits. Although the status is dubious as some people consider far higher and more difficult Carstenz Pyramid, located in East India, to be the highest mountain of Oceania.
Normal route. ~F.

Polar Regions

View over the southern Drygalski Mountains in NW direction, peak on the right is the Ulvetanna. Source: . Credit: Wilfried Bauer,  Shot on 2014-03-01 Photo taken in , Antarctica. Licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
View over the southern Drygalski Mountains in NW direction, peak on the right is the Ulvetanna. Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Southern_Drygalski_Mountains.jpg. Credit: Wilfried Bauer, Shot on 2014-03-01 Photo taken in , Antarctica. Licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
Here Antarctica and areas far north are combined together despite the areas being literally worlds apart. Climbing in Arctarctica is logistically challenging and correspondingly expensive. The most climbed objective is probably Mount Vinson for the fact that it is the highest and therefore one of the seven summits. Other than challenging weather it isn't particularly difficult. The same does not apply to some of the lower ranges, particularly Queen Maud Land where peaks like Ulvetanna rise vertically from the sea of ice. Greenland, perhaps a bit surprisingly, is best known for its rock rock climbing, as some of the fjords boast number of rock walls of Yosemite proportions. The same applies to Canadian Baffin island, where particularly Mount Asgard has attracted several elite parties during the years.

Antarctica

  • Gildea, Damien: Mountaineering in Antarctica - Climbing in the Frozen South. Isbn: 9782875230065. Nevicata, 2010.

Sentinel Range

Getting access to the climbs in the Antarctica used to be extremely difficult, not to mention prohibitively expensive. Nowadays commercial expeditions are organised. Ellsworth Mountains, south of the Antarctic Peninsula is the best-known and the highest of the ranges. 5140m Mount Vinson is located in Sentinel Range of Ellsworth mountains. It is the highest peak of Antarctica and by far the most climbed. Shinn, Mount Gardner and Mount Tyree are also occasionally climbed.

Climbing is done during the Antarctis summer (december - february). Even then the average temperature is around -30 to -40°C. Access to the ranges is by plane from Punta Arenas in Chile to Union Glacier Camp followed by shorter flight to the mountains.

Mount Vinson-78.525483-85.6171475140
Antarctica, Antarctica, Sentinel Range. Located in the Ellsworth range, some 900km away from the South Pole, Mount Vinson is the highest mountain of Antarctica and thus one of the seven summits.
1966-01-01
Mount Vinson, ,
First ascent
Nick Clinch with companions in 1966 (last of the seven summits)
Branscombe glacier & Vinson Shin col. F; 2200m.
Normal route. Long glacier climb with no particular difficulties. From Branscombe glacier (Base Camp at 2134m) to the col between Vinson Massif and Mount Shinn. From there 5 km to the summit. Two or three high camps.
Shinn4660
SW face
SW face. Ice/snow, 60°.
Normal route. From the col between Mount Vinson and Shinn.
Mount Gardner-78.383333-86.0333334685
Mount Tyree-78.411667-85.8619444852
the second highest peak of Antarctica, located just 13km northwest of Vinson Massif. The peaks is far more difficult than Vinson massif and lacks the status of being the highest peak of the continent, therefore very few people attemp to climb it.
Corbet's Couloir
Corbet's Couloir. 1967-01-01First ascentJohn Evans & Barry Corbet, 1967-01.
West face
West face. 1989-01-01First ascentTerry Stump, 1989-01.
French route
French route. 1997-01-01First ascentAntoine de Choudens & Antoine Cayrol, 1997.
South face
Still-unclimbed south face is 2000m face is one of the largest in Antarctica.

Queen Maud Land

Probably the most spectacular peaks on Antarctica are to be found in Queen Maud lands where impressive spires of Ulvetanna-group have attracted several famous climbers to put high profile and very difficult routes on them. The group consist of spires with vertical rock walls rising for hundreds of meters from the flat glacier. Most famous peaks are Holtanna and Ulvetanna. Due to very low temperatures it's hardly surprising that most (all) routes involve aid climbing.

Kintanna2725
Drygalski Mountains, Queen Maud Land.
Holtanna-71.9166678.3666672650
Drygalski Mountains, Queen Maud Land.
North pillar
Skywalk. VI+; 450m, 10 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist & Max Riechel, 2008.
NE face
NE face. 6b,A2; 500m.
West face
Eiszeit (Ice age). VII,A4; 750m, 24 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist & Max Riechel, 2008.
Zardoz. A4, Sco VII; 10 pitches. 2014-01-01First ascentAndy Kirkpatrick,Jonas Langseth, 2014-01.
South pillar
South pillar. 6b,A2/3.
Ulvetanna-71.858.3333332930
Drygalski Mountains, Queen Maud Land. Ulvetanna Peak (Norwegian: the wolf's tooth) is a sharp peak (2930m) in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Ulvetanna lies about 3km north of Kinntanna Peak in the Fenriskjeften Mountain in the east part of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. The peak was discovered fairly recently from surveys and air photos by the Sixth Norwegian Antarctic Expedition (1956–60) and named Ulvetanna. Since then there has been few ascents, all involving at least some aid to overcome steep rock and cold weather.
1994-01-01
Ulvetanna, NW face,
First ascent
NW face: Robert Caspersen, Sjur Nesheim & Ivar Tollefsen
2006-11-20
Ulvetanna, North face,
First ascent
North face: Robert Caspersen, Ivar Tollefsen, Stein-Ivar Gravdal & Trond Hilde
2008-01-01
Ulvetanna, Sound of Silence,
First ascent
Sound of Silence: Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber & Stephan Siegrist
2013-01-01
Ulvetanna, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Jason Pickles & Chris Rabone
2014-02-03
Ulvetanna, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: Andy Kirkpatrick,Aleks Gamme,Kjersti Eide,Espen Fadnes,Ingeborg Jackobsen,Jonas Langseth
North face
North face. A4,5.9/5.10; 21 pitches. 2006-11-20First ascentRobert Caspersen, Ivar Tollefsen, Stein-Ivar Gravdal & Trond Hilde, 2006-11-20.
NE ridge
NE ridge (The Last Great Climb). 5.12,A2/E6 6b,A2/C2; 35 pitches, 1750m. 2013-01-01First ascentLeo Houlding, Sean Leary, Jason Pickles & Chris Rabone, 2013.
Documented in film http://www.thelastgreatclimb.com/ The Last Great Climb The 2013 film from Alastair Lee is an epic to end all mountain epics set in the stunning mountains of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. The feature length documentary covers top adventure climber Leo Houlding with his tried and tested team of Jason Pickles and Sean 'Stanley' Leary as they attempt to make the first ascent of the NE ridge of the master piece of the range; the majestic Ulvetanna Peak. One of the most technically demanding climbs in one of the world's harshest environments. Behind the lens galleries here. THE LAST GREAT CLIMB promises to be quite simply one of the most spectacular mountaineering films ever made. Out November 2013 2013 Alastair Lee Antarctica Ulvetanna Leo Houlding .
South ridge
South ridge. E2 5b,A1/5.10,A1; 27 pitches. 2014-02-03First ascentAndy Kirkpatrick,Aleks Gamme,Kjersti Eide,Espen Fadnes,Ingeborg Jackobsen,Jonas Langseth, 2014-02-03.
NW face
NW face. 7a+,A2, 70°; 990m. 1994-01-01First ascentRobert Caspersen, Sjur Nesheim & Ivar Tollefsen, 1994.
Sound of Silence (West ridge, NW buttress). 5.11-,A2; 800m, 20 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, Thomas Huber & Stephan Siegrist, 2008.

Greenland

Greenland is world's largest island and one of the least explored areas in the world. It is predominantly an ice cap with a rugged mountain chain which runs north to south up the East Coast. Greenland holds tremendous climbing potential for the future. Although several of the southern big wall arenas and alpine ranges have become increasingly popular there are still many unexplored regions even close to best known regions, not to mention about virtually unclimbed areas on northeast.

The highest ranges (Lemons, the Lindberghs, Watkins) are located on East Coast. Here lie Mount Gunnbjornsfjeld, the highest mountain in Greenland, is located on the central part of the East Coast approximately 45km from the coast.

South Greenland is rapidly becoming world famous for its big granite walls on peaks like Ketil and Ulamertorssuaq at the head of Tasermiut Fjord. Overshadowed by these few world class cliffs the climbing potential of the peaks in the rest of the region is rarely reported although the area between Tasermiut Fjord and Augpilatoq alone offers over 1000km2 of relatively accessible granite mountains rising with well-defended buttresses and faces from 1000m to 1500m out of the fjords. Every part of the region provides ranges of towers and spires equally impressive as the Chamonix Aiguilles.

May-early September. Due to northern location lots of daylight.

Western Greenland

Uummannaq

Uummannaq70.713056-52.1311111170
Greenland, Uummannaq island.

Eastern Greenland

Watkins

Mount Gunnbjornsfjeld (Gunnbjørn Fjeld, Gunnbjørn)68.9195-29.8985333694
Greenland, Watkins Range.

Southern Greenland

Nalumasortoq60.386667-44.4694442045
Greenland.
  • World Mountaineering pp.82-85
SE face. 1974-01-01Nalumasortoq, SE face, First ascent , 1974.
South face. 1975-01-01Nalumasortoq, South face, First ascent , 1975.
1000, rock face with three prominent pillars.
Non c’è Due Senza Tre. 6c,A3/5.11b; 850m. 2000-01-01First ascentItalian party, 2000.
West Face of the Third Pillar.