Reflections at Mount Assiniboine, located at the border between Alberta and British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Jeffrey Pang,  Shot on 2012-03-14 Photo taken in British Columbia, Canada.(c) Jeffrey Pang, licensed under: CC BY 2.0.
Reflections at Mount Assiniboine, located at the border between Alberta and British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Jeffrey Pang, Shot on 2012-03-14 Photo taken in British Columbia, Canada.(c) Jeffrey Pang, licensed under: CC BY 2.0.

Pacific Cordillera

Alaska & Yukon

Brooks Range

Mount Chamberlin2749
Mount Chamberlin, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: George G. Barnes, Dennis Burge, Graham Stephenson
West ridge
West ridge. AK1; 950m. 1963-07-24First ascentGeorge G. Barnes, Dennis Burge, Graham Stephenson, 1963-07-24.

Alaska Range

West Alaska Range
Revelation Mountains
Mount Hesperus61.8036-154.14692996
Mount Hesperus, ,
First ascent
Justin Lesueur, Karl Swanson, Stephen Spalding
Kichatna Mountains
Kichatna Spires
Kichatna Spire (Kichatna Spires)62.4231-152.72312739
Kichatna Spire, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Arthur Davidson, Jr., Richard G. C. Millikan
Kichatna Spire, East face,
First ascent
East face: Bill Denz, S. Woolums
North ridge. 1966-01-01First ascentArthur Davidson, Jr., Richard G. C. Millikan, 1966.
East face
East face. nccs VI 5.10 A4. 1982-04-01First ascentBill Denz, S. Woolums, 1982-04.
South side
Tatina Spire2500
Central Alaska Range
Little Switzerland
Royal Tower2478
Mount Russell group
Mount Russell62.7984-151.88453557
North side
North Ridge. AK2+; 3,500', 1 day from high camp. Total 7-10 days. 1972-07-13First ascentThomas Kensler, Peter Brown, John Hauck, Dick Jablonowski, Dan Osborne, 1972-07-13.
West side
West face. 1962-05-28First ascentHellmut Raithel, 1962-05-28.
Foraker group
Mount Foraker62.9605-151.39925304
  • Mount Foraker (5304m62.9605-151.3992)
  • North peak
Mount Foraker, ,
Charles Houston, T. Graham Brown, Chychele Waterston to North Peak Charles Houston, T. Graham Brown, Chychele Waterston to North Peak
Mount Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge,
First ascent
Talkeetna Ridge: Alex Bertulis, Warren Bleser, Hans Baer, Peter Williamson
Mount Foraker, Archangel Ridge,
First ascent
Archangel Ridge: Gerard Roach, Barbara Roach, Brad Johnson, David Wright, Stewart Krebs, Charles Campbell
Mount Foraker, Infinite Spur,
First ascent
Infinite Spur: Michael Kennedy, George Lowe
Mount Foraker, Sultana Ridge,
First ascent
Sultana Ridge: Brian Okonek, Roger Cowles, Dave Johnson
  • Traumberge Amerikas
North side
Sultana Ridge (NE Ridge). AK3; 40°; 10,500 feet of ascent along 9 mile ridge. Typically 10-18 days en route. 1979-03-01First ascentBrian Okonek, Roger Cowles, Dave Johnson, 1979-03.
Safest and most accessible route on Mount Foraker. Ice up to 40°, cornices. 10,500 feet of ascent along 9 mile ridge. Typically 10-18 days en route from Base camp at southeast fork of Kahiltna glacier.
Archangel Ridge (North ridge). AK4; 11,000'. 1975-07-14First ascentGerard Roach, Barbara Roach, Brad Johnson, David Wright, Stewart Krebs, Charles Campbell, 1975-07-14.
East side
Czech route. AK5+; 75°, 5.7; 9,000'.
South side
Infinite Spur. nccs VII 5.9 AI4/AK6; VII/AI4/85°, 5.9; 9,000'/60-80 roped pitches to the south summit. 1977-01-01First ascentMichael Kennedy, George Lowe, 1977.
Classic. Mega classic, big and committing. Typically 7-14 days en route from Base camp at southeast fork of Kahiltna glacier.
Talkeetna Ridge (South ridge). AK5; 5.7; 10,200'. 1968-07-26First ascentAlex Bertulis, Warren Bleser, Hans Baer, Peter Williamson, 1968-07-26.
West side
West Ridge (NW ridge). AK3+. 1934-08-06First ascentCharles Houston, T. Graham Brown, Chychele Waterston to North Peak, 1934-08-06.1934-08-10First ascentCharles Houston, T. Graham Brown, Chychele Waterston to North Peak, 1934-08-10.
Denali group
Denali (Mount McKinley)63.069-151.00636190.5
  • South peak (6190.5m63.069-151.0063)
  • North peak (5934m)
Highest peak in the North America and therefore one of the seven summits. With its stupendous 5488 meter rise from the surrounding tundra, it has the greatest vertical relief of all the mountains. Native name Denali means 'the High One'.
Denali, ,
Peter Sinclair, Jake Breitenbach, Barry Corbet & Bill Buckingham Ode Siivonen & Jukka Räsänen
Denali, Tranquillo Couloir,
First ascent
Tranquillo Couloir: Steve Lyall, Zack Shlosar
Denali, ,
The mountain was found in 1794 by George Vancouver.
Denali, ,
In 1897 William Dickey named it Mt. McKinley after the presidential candidate.
Denali, ,
Frederick Cook fraudently claimed to have climbed the mountain in 1908
Denali, Muldrow Glacier Traverse,
First ascent
Muldrow Glacier Traverse: Harry Karstens, Hudson Stuck, Robert Tatum
Denali, West Buttress,
First ascent
West Buttress: Bradley Washburn
Denali, NW Buttress of North summit,
First ascent
NW Buttress of North summit: Fred Beckey, Bill Hackett, Donald McClean, Henry Maybohm, Charles Wilson
Denali, Cassin Ridge,
First ascent
Cassin Ridge: Riccardo Cassin, Luigi AIroldi, Luigi Alippi, Giancarlo Canali, Romano Perego, Annibale Zuicchi
Denali, ,
First winter ascent
via West Buttress
Denali, SW face,
First ascent
SW face: Jack Roberts & Simon McCartney
Denali, Slovak Direct,
First ascent
Slovak Direct: Blajez Adam, Tono Krizo, Franticek Korl
Denali, First Born,
First ascent
First Born: Eli Helmuth, Steve House
  • Top Climbs pp.66-69
  • World Mountaineering pp90-97
  • Traumberge Amerikas
North side
Muldrow Glacier Traverse (Muldrow and harper glaciers, Karstens ridge). Glacier, AK2+; 40°; 14,600'. 1908-01-01First ascentHarry Karstens, Hudson Stuck, Robert Tatum, 1908.
Glacier travel & snow/ice climbing to 40°.
  • Alaska Climbing pp.209
Wickersham Wall
The Wickersham Wall, located on the north side of McKinley, is one of the largest mountain faces in the world. It rises 14,000' from the Peters Glacier to the 19,740-foot North Peak.
Canadian Route. AK3; 45°; 15,000'.
Harvard Route. AK4+; 50°, 5.5,A1; 15,000'.
SE side
East Buttress. AK4; 15km.
Ridge of No Return (South Buttress). AK6; 5.9,A3.
South face
Contains steep and highly technical routes
Cassin Ridge. Ice/mixed, AK5/ED2; AI4, 5.8; 4000m from base camp, typically 3-5 days on route. 1961-07-19First ascentRiccardo Cassin, Luigi AIroldi, Luigi Alippi, Giancarlo Canali, Romano Perego, Annibale Zuicchi, 1961-07-19.
Classic. Classic hard route.
Slovak Direct (Czech Direct). AK6; WI6 M5/100°, 5.9/V+; 2700m. 1984-01-01First ascentBlajez Adam, Tono Krizo, Franticek Korl, 1984.
  • Twight, Mark & Martin, James: Extreme Alpinism - Climbing Light, Fast, and High, 1st edition. Isbn: 0898866545. Mountaineers Books, 1999.
  • House, Steve: Beyond the Mountain. Isbn: 9780979065958. Patagonia Inc, 2009.
SW face
Face framed by West Rib and Cassin ridge.
SW face (McCartney-Roberts). AK6; 5.9,A3; 8,000'/4000m from base camp. 1980-06-01First ascentJack Roberts & Simon McCartney, 1980-06.
West side
Most popular side of Denali. Same base camp can be used for climbs on the South face.
West Buttress. Glacier, nccs IV 50°/AK2+/NZ2/Rus 5A/VI AD+; 50°; 4000m from base camp. 1951-01-01First ascentBradley Washburn, 1951.
  • Alaska Climbing pp.48
West Rib. Ice, AK4 (Upper West Rib AK3); V/AI2-3/60°; 4000m from base camp, typically 4-7 days en route. 1959-07-19First ascentPeter Sinclair, Jake Breitenbach, Barry Corbet & Bill Buckingham, 1959-07-19.
Classic. Popular more technical ice route on Denali, providing huge shortcut to West Buttress. Lower West rib starts at Chicken couloir in the northeast fork of Kahiltna glacier at 11,200'. Crosses the West Buttress route at basin camp (14,200'). Another popular way of ascent is to climb only the upper west rib from the basin camp.
West Rim. AK4; AI3/70°; 4000m from base camp.
Ridge climb between West Rib and West Buttress.
NW face (Father and Sons Wall)
NW Buttress of North summit. Ice/mixed, AK4; 65°, low 5th class; 13,000', 27km. 1954-01-01First ascentFred Beckey, Bill Hackett, Donald McClean, Henry Maybohm, Charles Wilson, 1954.
Glacier travel, ice/mixed to 65° and low 5th class rock.
Tranquillo Couloir. AK4; 50-65°; 2100m. 1900-01-01First ascentSteve Lyall, Zack Shlosar.
First Born. AK4; 5.8, 70°; 2100m. 1995-01-01First ascentEli Helmuth, Steve House, 1995.
Mount Hunter62.9496-151.09214442
Mount Hunter, ,
Mugs Stump, Paul Aubry (to last rock band) Todd Bibler, Doug Klewin
Mount Hunter, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Meybohm
Mount Hunter, SE Spur,
First ascent
SE Spur: John Mallon Waterman
Mount Hunter, French Route,
First ascent
French Route: Benoit Grison & Yves Tedeschi
Mount Hunter, Deprivation,
First ascent
Deprivation: Scott Backes, Mark Twight
Mount Hunter, Wall of Shadows,
First ascent
Wall of Shadows: Greg Child & Michael Kennedy
Mount Hunter, The Knowledge,
First ascent
The Knowledge: Ian Parnell, Jules Cartwright
Mount Hunter, The Cartwright Connection,
First ascent
The Cartwright Connection: Matt Helliker, Jon Bracey
  • Traumberge Amerikas
North side
French Route (North Buttress Couloir). AK6; 1200m. 1984-01-01First ascentBenoit Grison & Yves Tedeschi, 1984.
Independent line to the left of Moonflower.
Wall of Shadows. AK6; AI6+, 5.9,A4; 1200m. 1994-06-02First ascentGreg Child & Michael Kennedy, 1994-06-02.
Moonflower (North Buttress, Bibler-Klewin). Mixed, AK6; VI AI6 M6/Sco 7, 5.9,A3; 2100m, 7-10 days on route. 1983-01-01First ascentTodd Bibler, Doug Klewin, 1983.
Classic. Classic hard route on Mount Hunter. Great number of variations exist.
The Knowledge. ED4/AK6; AI6, 5.7,A2+; 1200m. 2000-01-01First ascentIan Parnell, Jules Cartwright, 2000.
Parallel route to to Moonflower on its right side.
The Cartwright Connection. AK6; M6 AI6, 5.8,A2. 2011-01-01First ascentMatt Helliker, Jon Bracey, 2011.
Deprivation. AK6/ED+; AI6 M6 R; 2100m. 1994-01-01First ascentScott Backes, Mark Twight, 1994.
Line to on the face the right of Moonflower Buttress.
South side
SE Spur (South Spur). AK6; 5,800'. 1979-01-01First ascentJohn Mallon Waterman, 1979.
West side
West ridge. AK4+/nccs IV AI3 5.8; V/AI3/70°, 5.8,A3; 2440m, 7-10 days on route. 1954-07-04First ascentFred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Meybohm, 1954-07-04.
Kahiltna Dome63.055-151.23943818
Silverthorne group
Mount Silverthrone63.1157-150.67554029
North ridge
North ridge. AK1+; 1600m, 1 day. 1944-01-01First ascentBradford Washburn, Bruce Bass, Robert P. Sharp, Alvin Ivler, 1944.
Mount Mather63.1946-150.43623695
North side
NE ridge. 1979-01-01First ascentJim Bouchard, partner, 1979.
North ridge. AK3; 2200m, 2-3 days. 1994-06-30First ascentMike Litzow, Jeff Benowitz, 1994-06-30.
West ridge
West ridge. 1952-07-21First ascentThayer Scudder, Winslow Briggs, John S. Humphreys, David Bernays, 1952-07-21.
Mount Brooks63.1875-150.64793639
North ridge
North ridge. AK1+; 2200m, 1-2 days. 1952-07-05First ascentThayer Scudder, Winslow Briggs, John S. Humphreys, David Bernays, 1952-07-05.
Huntington group
Mount Huntington62.9677-150.89963731
Mount Huntington is a striking rock and ice pyramid in the central Alaska Range, about 13km south-southeast of Denali and 10km east of Mount Hunter. While overshadowed in absolute elevation by Denali, Huntington is a steeper peak: in almost every direction, faces drop over 1500m. Even its easiest route presents significant technical challenges making the peak classic goal for high-standard technical climbers.
Mount Huntington, French Ridge,
First ascent
French Ridge: Lionel Terray, Batkin, Bernezat, Gendre, Gicquel, Martinetti, Sarthou & Soubis
Mount Huntington, Harvard route,
First ascent
Harvard route: David Roberts, Don Jensen, Edward Bernd, Matthew Hale
Mount Huntington, West Face couloir,
First ascent
West Face couloir: Evans & Hogan
Mount Huntington, Timeless face,
First ascent
Timeless face: Jack Roberts & Simon McCartney
Mount Huntington, Southeast Spur,
First ascent
Southeast Spur: Joseph Kaelin, Kent Meneghin, Glenn Randall, Angus M. Thuermer, Jr.
Mount Huntington, The British Route,
First ascent
The British Route: Roger Mear, Steve Bell
Mount Huntington, Colton-Leach route,
First ascent
Colton-Leach route: Nick Colton, Tim Leach
Mount Huntington, Smith-Teare,
First ascent
Smith-Teare: Jay Smith, Peal Teare
Mount Huntington, Shi-Shi,
First ascent
Shi-Shi: Ichimura, Yokoyama
Mount Huntington, Gauntlet ridge,
First ascent
Gauntlet ridge: Clint Helander, Jess Roskelley
  • Terray, Lionel: Conquistadors of the Useless - From the Alps to Annapurna. Isbn: 9780898867787. Mountaineers Books, 2001.
  • Mccartney, Simon & Westman, Mark: The Bond - Two Epic Climbs in Alaska and a Lifetime's Connection Between Climbers. Isbn: 9781910240663. Vertebrate Publishing, 2016.
North face
Timeless face. nccs VI 5.9 WI5. 1978-07-06First ascentJack Roberts & Simon McCartney, 1978-07-06.
East face
The British Route. 1980-05-16First ascentRoger Mear, Steve Bell, 1980-05-16.
South ridge
Southeast Spur. 1978-07-09First ascentJoseph Kaelin, Kent Meneghin, Glenn Randall, Angus M. Thuermer, Jr., 1978-07-09.
Gauntlet ridge. 8,500'. 2017-01-01First ascentClint Helander, Jess Roskelley, 2017.
Complate South ridge. Traverse of Peaks 9460, 9800, 10100, and Idiot Peak to reach the summit of Huntington (12,240’).
The Phantom Wall (SW face)
Smith-Teare. 1991-05-21First ascentJay Smith, Peal Teare, 1991-05-21.
Shi-Shi. 2005-01-01First ascentIchimura, Yokoyama, 2005.
West face
French Ridge (NW Ridge). nccs IV; AI4/65°. 1964-01-01First ascentLionel Terray, Batkin, Bernezat, Gendre, Gicquel, Martinetti, Sarthou & Soubis, 1964.
West Face couloir (Nettle-Quirk). AK3+/nccs V; WI4+ M4/60° with short steps up to 80°; 1300m, 20 pitches. 1978-01-01First ascentEvans & Hogan, 1978.
Normal route. Likely the easiest ascent.
Colton-Leach route. 1981-01-01First ascentNick Colton, Tim Leach, 1981.
Harvard route. nccs VI 5.9,A2/AK5; 5.9,A2; 3730m. 1965-01-01First ascentDavid Roberts, Don Jensen, Edward Bernd, Matthew Hale, 1965.
  • Fifty Classic Climbs of North America Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
  • Alaska Climbing pp.178
Mount Dickey62.946111-150.7208332597
Mount Dickey, West face,
First ascent
West face: David Fisher, Bradford Washburn
Mount Dickey, SE pillar,
First ascent
SE pillar: David Roberts, Galen Rowell, Ed Ward
Mount Dickey, Snowpatrol,
First ascent
Snowpatrol: Sam Chinnery, Andy Sharpe
Mount Dickey, Monogamy,
First ascent
Monogamy: Craig Carter, Jason Elliott, Pedro Espina, Vikram Gowda
North face
Monogamy. AK3; 5.8, AI3/50-80°. 2011-06-01First ascentCraig Carter, Jason Elliott, Pedro Espina, Vikram Gowda, 2011-06-01.
SE face
SE pillar (SE face). nccs VI 5.9 A2; 1554m. 1974-01-01First ascentDavid Roberts, Galen Rowell, Ed Ward, 1974.
Snowpatrol. nccs VI WI5+ 90; 1500m. 2004-04-01First ascentSam Chinnery, Andy Sharpe, 2004-04.
West face
1 mile high granite face
West face. AKAK 1; 1800m. 1955-04-19First ascentDavid Fisher, Bradford Washburn, 1955-04-19.
Mount Barille (Mt. Barrill)25439.632545931756
Mount Barille, ,
First ascent
The Mazamas group
Mount Barille, Cobra Pillar,
First ascent
Cobra Pillar: Jim Donini, Jack Tackle
East face
Japanese couloir.
  • Alaska Climbing pp.127
Cobra Pillar. nccs V 5.11a,C1+; 900m, 26 pitches. 1991-06-10First ascentJim Donini, Jack Tackle, 1991-06-10.
Thunder Mountain3328
South face
Barlow-Hornby. D-. 1993-01-01First ascentDave Barlow, Geoff Hornby, 1993.
Mount Providence3608
South face
Mooses Tooth group
Moose's Tooth (Mount Hubbard)62.969167-150.6133333150
The highest and most famous of several Tooth peaks on the east side of the Ruth Gorge. It is surrounded on all sides by steep ridges and faces making any ascent to the summit a technical challenge. The peak has large number of classic routes on all sides, most popular being Ham and Eggs, Shaken Not Stirred and the Fifty Classic West Ridge.
Moose's Tooth, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Walter Welsch, Arnold Hasenkopf, Klaus Bierl, Alfons Reichegger
Moose's Tooth, Ham and Eggs couloir,
First ascent
Ham and Eggs couloir: Jon Krakauer, Thomas Dosies, Nate Zinser
Moose's Tooth, Tooth Traverse,
First ascent
Tooth Traverse: Freddie Wilkinson & Renan Ozturk
Tooth Traverse
Tooth Traverse. Traverse, VI 5.10R M5 A2+; 8000m. 2012-01-01First ascentFreddie Wilkinson & Renan Ozturk, 2012.
The traverse follows the five-mile skyline of the Mooses Tooth massif from Espresso Gap to Ruth Gap.
North side
West ridge (NW ridge). AK2+; 55°. 1964-06-01First ascentWalter Welsch, Arnold Hasenkopf, Klaus Bierl, Alfons Reichegger, 1964-06-01.
  • Fifty Classic Climbs of North America Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
  • Mountain Info, #497 issue: 15, date: 2006-05.
East side
South side
Ham and Eggs couloir. nccs V 5.9 AI4/AK3+; WI4 M4; 900m. 1975-07-18First ascentJon Krakauer, Thomas Dosies, Nate Zinser, 1975-07-18.
Bears Tooth
Hayes Range
Mount Hayes63.6199-146.71744216
Mount Hayes, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Bradford Washburn, Barbara Washburn, Benjamin Ferris, Sterling Hendricks, Henry Hall, William Shand
Mount Hayes, East ridge,
First ascent
East ridge: Mark Hoffman, Tom Hollis, James Brady, Dan Osborne
North ridge
North ridge. 1941-08-07First ascentBradford Washburn, Barbara Washburn, Benjamin Ferris, Sterling Hendricks, Henry Hall, William Shand, 1941-08-07.
East ridge
East ridge. AK2+; 2-3 days. 1972-05-22First ascentMark Hoffman, Tom Hollis, James Brady, Dan Osborne, 1972-05-22.
Mount Moffit63.5683-146.39823968
North side
Western north ridge. AK4; AI4; 2700m, 3-5 days. 1942-08-12First ascentBenjamin Greely Ferris Jr., Sterling Hendricks, Bill Shand, 1942-08-12.
Mount Deborah63.6379-147.23823761
Mount Deborah, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Meybohm
Mount Deborah, NW Ridge,
First ascent
NW Ridge: Richard Nolting, John Cady, Barry Nash, Ray Watts
NW Ridge
NW Ridge. AK3+; AI3; 5,600', 2-3 days. 1976-01-01First ascentRichard Nolting, John Cady, Barry Nash, Ray Watts, 1976.
South ridge
South ridge. 1954-06-19First ascentFred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Meybohm, 1954-06-19.
East Alaska Range Range
Delta Range
Mount Kimball63.239-144.64193155
Mount Kimball, ,
First ascent
Grace Hoeman, Tom Kensher, Dan Osborne, Mike Sallee
SW ridge
SW ridge. AK2+; 1100m, 2-3 days.

Aleutian Ranges

Alaska Peninsula
Pavlof Volcano55.4173-161.89322515
NW face
NW face. AK1; 1300m, 1 day. 1928-06-27First ascentT.A. Jagger, J. gardiner, O.P. McKinley, P.A. Yactchmenoff, R.H, Stewart, 1928-06-27.
  • Alaska Climbing Guide #10
Chigmit Mountains
Iliamna Volcano60.0321-153.09153053
NW ridge
NW ridge. AK1; 2200, 1 day. 1871-01-01First ascentIvan Petrof, 1871.
Neacola Mountains
Mount Neacola60.7981-153.39592873
West face
West face couloir. AK2; AI4; 1400m, 1-2 days. 1991-05-20First ascentJames Garrett, Loren Glick, Kennan Harvey, 1991-05-20.
Mount Reaper2300
Mount Reaper, Sugar Man,
First ascent
Sugar Man: Hansjörg Auer, Much Mayr
North face
Sugar Man. M7,A1; 750m. 2015-01-01First ascentHansjörg Auer, Much Mayr, 2015.
Unimak Island
Shishaldin Volcano54.7554-163.97092869
East face
East face. AK1; 1 day. 1932-05-16First ascentG. Peterson and two partners, 1932-05-16.
  • Alaska Climbing Guide #9

South-Central Alaska

Chugach Mountains
Mount Marcus Baker (Mount Saint Agnes)61.4374-147.75254016
Mount Marcus Baker, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Norman Bright, Peter Gabriel, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Bradford Washburn
North ridge
North ridge. AK2; 1900m, 3-5 days. 1938-06-19First ascentNorman Bright, Peter Gabriel, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Bradford Washburn, 1938-06-19.
Mount Thor61.4854-147.1463816
Mount Thor, ,
First ascent
Vin Hoeman, Winfred Bludsworth, Harry Bludworth
North ridge
North ridge. AK1+; 1250m. 1991-02-16First ascentJohn Bauman, Leo Americus, 1991-02-16.
Wrangell Mountains
Mount Blackburn61.7305-143.40314996
  • NW Peak (4996m61.7305-143.4031)
  • East Peak
Mount Blackburn, ,
First ascent
Dora Keen, George Handy (East peak)
Mount Blackburn, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Bruce Gilbert, Dick Wahlstrom, Hans Gmoser, Adolf Bitterlich, Leon Blumer
North ridge
North ridge (NW ridge). AK2; 2200m. 1958-05-30First ascentBruce Gilbert, Dick Wahlstrom, Hans Gmoser, Adolf Bitterlich, Leon Blumer, 1958-05-30.
Mount Sanford62.2132-144.12924949
Mount Sanford, ,
First ascent
Terris Moore and Bradford Washburn
Mount Sanford, North ramp,
First ascent
North ramp: Terris Moore, Bradford Washburn
  • Traumberge Amerikas
North side
North ramp. AK2; 2300m. 1938-07-21First ascentTerris Moore, Bradford Washburn, 1938-07-21.
Atna Peaks61.7495-143.24144225
Atna Peaks, ,
First ascent
Keith Hart & party
West ridge
West ridge. AK1; 800m, 1 day.
Mount Drum62.1159-144.63943661
Mount Drum, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Heinrich Harrer, Keith Hart, George Schaller
Mount Drum, SW ridge,
First ascent
SW ridge: Heinz Alleman, Niklaus Lötscher
North ridge
North ridge. 1954-06-04First ascentHeinrich Harrer, Keith Hart, George Schaller, 1954-06-04.
SW ridge
SW ridge. AK2+; 2000m. 1967-08-26First ascentHeinz Alleman, Niklaus Lötscher, 1967-08-26.

Saint Elias Mountains

Fairweather range
Mount Fairweather (Fairweather Mountain)58.9064-137.52654671
Mount Fairweather, Carpé ridge,
First ascent
Carpé ridge: Allen Carpé, Terris Moore
South side
Carpé ridge (South ridge). AK3+; 5.6, AI3; 3400m. 1931-06-08First ascentAllen Carpé, Terris Moore, 1931-06-08.
  • Alaska Climbing Guide #75
  • Fifty Classic Climbs of North America Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
  • American Alpine Journal, #AAJ 1932 pp: 429-444.
Mount Quincy Adams58.908889-137.4513894150
Mount Quincy Adams, ,
First ascent
Bradford Washburn, H. Adams Carter
Mount Crillon58.6625-137.17163879
South face
South face. 1934-07-19First ascentBradford Washburn, H. Adams Carter, 1934-07-19.
West ridge
West ridge. AK4; 5.5, AI4; 2800m. 1972-06-09First ascentLoren Adkins, Marsha Adkins, Richard Benedict, Jerry Buckley, Bruce Tickell, 1972-06-09.
Mount Watson59.0088-137.55413809
East ridge
East ridge. AK2; 1000m. 1974-06-05First ascentWalter Gove, Lawrence Dauelsberg, Donald Liska, ALice Liska, Michael Allen, 1974-06-05.
Northern Saint Elias Mountains
Northern Icefield Ranges
Mount Lucania61.0215-140.46615260
Mount Lucania, ,
First ascent
Bradford Washburn and Robert Hicks Bates
Northwest Saint Elias Range
Mount Bona61.3845-141.75295044
Mount Bona, East ridge,
First ascent
East ridge: Allen Carpé, Terris Moore, Andy Taylor
East ridge
East ridge. AK2; 2100m. 1930-07-02First ascentAllen Carpé, Terris Moore, Andy Taylor, 1930-07-02.
University Peak61.3272-141.78674410
University Peak, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Keith Hart, Leon Blumer, Sheldon Brooks, Tim Kelly, Norman Sanders, Gibson Reynolds, R. Houston
University Peak, Third Semester,
First ascent
Third Semester: Carlos Buhler, Charlie Sassara
North ridge
North ridge. AK2+. 1955-06-19First ascentKeith Hart, Leon Blumer, Sheldon Brooks, Tim Kelly, Norman Sanders, Gibson Reynolds, R. Houston, 1955-06-19.
East face
Third Semester. AK5; AI4+/90°; 2600m. 1997-05-03First ascentCarlos Buhler, Charlie Sassara, 1997-05-03.
Mount Natazhat61.5217-141.1034095
Mount Natazhat, South side,
First ascent
South side: Canadian boundary survey party
Mount Natazhat, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: Barry, Hart, Hunt, Lucey
NE ridge
NE ridge. AK3+; AI3; 1900m, 3-5 days. 1997-04-01First ascentBarry, Hart, Hunt, Lucey, 1997-04.
South side
South side. 1913-06-01First ascentCanadian boundary survey party, 1913-06.
Southern Icefield Ranges
Mount Logan60.5666-140.40725959
  • Mount Logan (5959m60.5666-140.4072)
  • Mount Logan
Mount Logan (of St.Elias in Yukon territory of Canada, not to be mixed with much lower peak in North Cascades of US) is a massive mountain. It is twenty-five miles long and rises more than two miles above its surroundings. The mountain was named after Sir William Logan, founder of the Geological Survey of Canada. All routes are Himalayan in scale and 15-20km long serious outing which typically take 7-21 days to complete. Logan is most commonly climbed via "King's Trench" on the west side (over 20km long, technically easy).
Mount Logan, King's Trench,
First ascent
King's Trench: A.H. MacCarthy, H.F. Lambart, A. Carpè, W.W. Foster, N. Read & A. Taylor
Mount Logan, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: five Americans including 60-year-old oil tycoon, Norman Read.
Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge,
First ascent
Hummingbird Ridge: Al Steck, Paul Bacon, Jim Wilson, Frank Coale, Dick Long & John Evans
  • World Mountaineering pp100-103
  • Traumberge Amerikas
East side
East Ridge. AK3+/NZ3; 60°; 3500m/13,050'. 1950-01-01First ascentfive Americans including 60-year-old oil tycoon, Norman Read., 1950.
More difficult alternative to Kings's Trench and prime alpine climb up a superb narrow ridge via East peak. The ridge is never too technical but always interesting.
South side
Mighty face rising 4000m above the glacier. All routes are difficult. Hummingbird ridge is mountaineering legend, yet never repeated in its original form.
Hummingbird Ridge (S Ridge). AK6/nccs VII AI4; VII/AI4; 4000m, 9km. 1965-01-01First ascentAl Steck, Paul Bacon, Jim Wilson, Frank Coale, Dick Long & John Evans, 1965.
West side
King's Trench. Glacier, PD/nccs II+; 20km, 6 intermediate camps. 1925-06-23First ascentA.H. MacCarthy, H.F. Lambart, A. Carpè, W.W. Foster, N. Read & A. Taylor, 1925-06-23.
Normal route. Technically easy, skis can be used almost all the way. Comparable to West Burttress on Denali but without the masses and fixed ropes.
Mount Saint Elias60.2927-140.93075489
Mt. St. Elias (5488m) explodes from the shores of the Pacific Ocean and rises for over three vertical miles. The second highest peak in both the U.S. and Canada, Mt. St. Elias has immense vertical relief, comparable to Denali and peaks in the Himalayas.
Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi ridge,
First ascent
Abruzzi ridge: Joseph Petigax, Antoine Maquignaz, Laurent Croux, André Pellisier, Luigi Amedeo, Francesco Gonella, Vittorio Sella, Filippo de Filippi, Umberto Cagni, Erminio Botta
Mount Saint Elias, Harvard route,
First ascent
Harvard route: Harvard mountaineering club
North side
Abruzzi ridge. 1897-07-31First ascentJoseph Petigax, Antoine Maquignaz, Laurent Croux, André Pellisier, Luigi Amedeo, Francesco Gonella, Vittorio Sella, Filippo de Filippi, Umberto Cagni, Erminio Botta, 1897-07-31.
  • Fifty Classic Climbs of North America Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
South side
Harvard route (SW Ridge). AK4+; AI3; 15,700' from the BC (2,300'). 1946-01-01First ascentHarvard mountaineering club, 1946.
King Peak60.5834-140.65615173
King Peak, ,
First ascent
Keith Hart and Elton Thayer
Mount Vancouver (Boundary Peak)4850
Mount Vancouver, North Buttress,
First ascent
North Buttress: William Hainsworth, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Bob McCarter, Noel Odell
Mount Vancouver, SE ridge,
First ascent
SE ridge: Monty Alford, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Glen Boles, Les McDonald, Dan Davis, George Denton, Jed Williamson, Vin Hoeman
Mount Vancouver, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: Cliff Cantor, Bob Dangel, Paul Ledoux, Rob Milne, Hal Murray, Bob Walker, John Yates and Barton DeWolf
Mount Vancouver, West face,
First ascent
West face: John Lauchlan, John Calvert, Trevor Jones, Mike Sawyer
Mount Vancouver, South rib,
First ascent
South rib: Bill Pilliong, Carl Diedrich
Mount Vancouver, Yates-Schweizer,
First ascent
Yates-Schweizer: Simon Yates, Paul Schweizer
North side
North Buttress (Northwest ridge). 1949-07-05First ascentWilliam Hainsworth, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Bob McCarter, Noel Odell, 1949-07-05.
NE ridge. 1975-01-01First ascentCliff Cantor, Bob Dangel, Paul Ledoux, Rob Milne, Hal Murray, Bob Walker, John Yates and Barton DeWolf, 1975.
West face
West face. 1977-01-01First ascentJohn Lauchlan, John Calvert, Trevor Jones, Mike Sawyer, 1977.
South side of Good Neighbor Peak
Mt Vancouver's South Summit
South rib. AK4+; 2400m. 1993-01-01First ascentBill Pilliong, Carl Diedrich, 1993.
SE ridge. 1967-01-01First ascentMonty Alford, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Glen Boles, Les McDonald, Dan Davis, George Denton, Jed Williamson, Vin Hoeman, 1967.
Yates-Schweizer. ED; Sco IV; 3000mz. 2009-05-05First ascentSimon Yates, Paul Schweizer, 2009-05-05.
Mount Hubbard60.3194-139.07264557
Mount Hubbard, ,
First ascent
Nicholas Clifford, Robert Bates, Peter Wood and Walter Wood
Mount Alverstone60.3519-139.07524420
Mount Alverstone, ,
First ascent
Walter Wood, Robert H. bates, Peter Wood, Nicholas Clifford
Mount Alverstone, West Buttress,
First ascent
West Buttress: Bill Pilling, Carl Diedrich
Mount Alverstone, Blanchard-Wilford,
First ascent
Blanchard-Wilford: Blanchard, Wilford
Mount Alverstone, Yates-Schweizer,
First ascent
Yates-Schweizer: Simon Yates, Paul Schweizer
West face
West Buttress. AK5; 5.8, 4+; 2000m. 1995-05-01First ascentBill Pilling, Carl Diedrich, 1995-05.
Blanchard-Wilford. 1998-01-01First ascentBlanchard, Wilford, 1998.
Yates-Schweizer. TD+; 1800m. 2005-05-11First ascentSimon Yates, Paul Schweizer, 2005-05-11.
Mount Augusta60.3074-140.45844289
Mount Augusta, ,
First ascent
Peter Schoening, Victor Josendal, Bill Niendorf, Richard E. McGowen, Bob Yeasting, Gibson Reynolds, Tom Morris, Verl Rogers
Mount Augusta, ,
First ascent
Don Serl, Mike Carlson. Greg Foweraker, Jeff Marshall
Mount Augusta, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: Bill Pilling, Carl Diedrich
Mount Augusta, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: Ade Miller, paul Mead, Rob Wilson, Paul Knott
North ridge
North ridge. 1993-01-01First ascentAde Miller, paul Mead, Rob Wilson, Paul Knott, 1993.
South ridge
South ridge. AK5; 5.7, AI4; 3300m. 1990-05-11First ascentBill Pilling, Carl Diedrich, 1990-05-11.
Mount Kennedy4234
After the assassination of U.S. President John F. Kennedy (JFK), it was the highest peak in North America that had not yet been climbed, and it was named in his honour.
Mount Kennedy, ,
Joe Faint, Philip Koch, David Seidman, Todd Thompson Andy Cave, Mick Fowler (alpine style)
Mount Kennedy, ,
First ascent
: Robert F. Kennedy, James Whittaker, Dee Molenaar and others
Mount Kennedy, A Pair of Jacks,
First ascent
A Pair of Jacks: Jack Tackle & Jack Roberts
Mount Kennedy, Bracey/Cross route,
First ascent
Bracey/Cross route: Jon Bracey, Rock Cross
Glacier, 1965-01-01First ascentRobert F. Kennedy, James Whittaker, Dee Molenaar and others, 1965.
North side
North Buttress. TD+/AK6; 1800m. 1968-01-01First ascentJoe Faint, Philip Koch, David Seidman, Todd Thompson, 1968.2000-01-01First ascentAndy Cave, Mick Fowler (alpine style), 2000.
Bracey/Cross route. AK6; Sco 7; 1800m. 2004-05-01First ascentJon Bracey, Rock Cross, 2004-05.
More or less identical to "A Pair of Jacks" but goes all the way to summit.
A Pair of Jacks. nccs VI M7 WI5+; Sco VII; 1800m. 1996-05-01First ascentJack Tackle & Jack Roberts, 1996-05.

Mackenzie Mountains

Mount Nirvana61.8752-127.68072773
Mount Nirvana, ,
First ascent
Bill Buckingham and Lew Surdam
Mount Proboscis2610
Mount Proboscis, ,
First ascent
Bill Buckingham, Mason C. Hoadley, Stuart Krebs

Pacific Cordillera

Coast Mountains

Boundary Ranges
Central Boundary Ranges
Chutine Peak57.775278-132.3352782910
Chutine Peak, ,
First ascent
Geoffrey Faraghan, Paul Tamm, Chris Wilson, Leslie Wilson
Devil's Thumb (Devils Thumb)57.091272-132.3694052777
Devil's Thumb, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: Fred Beckey, Clifford Schmidtke, Bob Craig
Devil's Thumb, South Pillar,
First ascent
South Pillar: Bill Pilling & Mark Bebie
East side
East Ridge (Beckey). nccs IV 5.8 AI4; 750m, 2-3 days. 1946-08-25First ascentFred Beckey, Clifford Schmidtke, Bob Craig, 1946-08-25.
South side
South Pillar. nccs V 5.10,A2. 1991-05-24First ascentBill Pilling & Mark Bebie, 1991-05-24.
Northern Pacific Ranges
Ha-Iltzuk Icefield
Mount Silverthrone51.528333-126.1133332860
West face
  • Alaska Climbing pp.219
Monarch Icefield
Northern Monarch Icefield
Monarch Mountain51.9-125.8766673555
Monarch Mountain, ,
First ascent
Henry S. Hall Jr. and Hans Fuhrer
Waddington Range
Mount Waddington51.3737-125.26364019
Majestic mountain with no easy route to the top. Access is most commonly by helicopter or plane from Tatla lake or Campbell River on Vancouver island to Tetla glacier from where The Plummer hut can be reached. Mostly climbed from NE side although south side would have technically easier routes.
Mount Waddington, Bravo glacier route,
First ascent
Bravo glacier route: Fritz Wiessner & William P. House
Combatant Mountain51.391697-125.2451243762
Combatant Mountain, South Buttress,
First ascent
South Buttress: Greg Child, Graig Collum & Steve Musceoh
South side
South Buttress. nccs VI 5.11,A3+; 4,500'. 1994-08-01First ascentGreg Child, Graig Collum & Steve Musceoh, 1994-08.

Cascade Range

North Cascades
Central North Cascades
Bonanza Peak48.238333333-120.866388892900
Bonanza Peak, ,
First ascent
Party from
Forbidden Peak48.511666667-121.058611112688
Located in a alpine setting in the heart of the North Cascade National Park, this 8,815-foot mountain offers excellent views of the surrounding peaks and the massive Boston Glacier.
Forbidden Peak, ,
First ascent
Lloyd Anderson, Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, Dave Lind
West side
West Ridge. nccs II-III 5.6 50°/AD; 5,600'.
Normal route. Heralded as one of the "Fifty Classic Climbs in North America".
Buckner Mountain (Mount Buckner)48.494166667-1212779
  • SW summit (2779m48.494166667-121)
  • NE summit (2777m)
North Face
The North Face and the North Face Couloir are divided by a rock buttress. Each has approximately 1300 feet of 40-50 degree snow and ice climbing. The left handed couloir is slightly steeper and more confining to climb than the North Face.
  • From the trailhead at 3200' through Boston Basin (5700') and Sahale Boston -col to Boston Glacier.
North Face. nccs III 40-50°; 1,300'.
From there along North face to the summit.
Goode-Logan-Black Area
Mount Logan3286
  • Main peak (3286m)
  • Middle peak (2731m)
Not to be mixed with significantly higher peak of the same name located in Yukon, Canada.
Mount Logan, Fremont glacier,
First ascent
Fremont glacier: Lage Wernstedt
North side
SE side
Douglas glacier. nccs III 3rd class.
SW side
Fremont glacier. nccs II 4th class/NZ2; 6,800', 3-4 days round trip. 1926-07-01First ascentLage Wernstedt, 1926-07.
  • Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 1, 2nd Ed., #56
  • Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes, Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass, pp.336-337
Entiat Mountains
Mount Maude48.137777778-120.803611112765
North Face
North Face ice couloir. nccs III-IV.
Glacier Peak Area
Glacier Peak (Takobia)48.1125-121.11383214
Frostbite Ridge. nccs II AI1 3rd class.
Sitkum Glacier. nccs I; Sco I.
Hozameen Range
Hozomeen North Peak48.982222222-121.011944442460
Hozomeen North Peak, ,
First ascent
Sledge Tatum, George E. Loudon
Methow Mountains
South Washington Pass
Liberty Bell2360
Beckey Route. nccs II 5.6/PD; 150m.
Liberty Crack. nccs V 5.8,A3; 5.13b; 12 pitches.
Skagit Range
Mount Redoubt48.957777778-121.300833332735
Jon Gardey, Gene Wescott, Finley Kennel, Charles Deehr
North face
North face. AK1; 1500m, 1 day.
Baker-Shuksan group
Mount Baker (Kulshan)48.7768-121.81453289
Mount Baker, ,
First ascent
Edmund Thomas Coleman, Edward Eldridge, John Tennant, David Ogilvy and Thomas Stratton
Mount Baker, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: Fred Beckey, Ralph, Dick Widrig
North side
North Ridge. nccs III+ AI3/AD. 1948-08-01First ascentFred Beckey, Ralph, Dick Widrig, 1948-08.
Mount Shuksan48.831388889-121.602777782784
Structurally beautiful mountain in the northern Cascades. Shuksan is popular climbing peak, as it offers wide variety of challenges. The climber has a choice of rock walls, moderate firnfields, steep ice, and easy scrambling.
North Face
North Face. nccs IV 50°; 2,000'.
Price Glacier. nccs III class 4-3 AI3; 6,700'.
South side
Sulphide Glacier (Southern Flank). PD-/nccs III class 4 30°; 6,400'.
Normal route. From there through the central gully on the southern flank to the summit. When the gully is iced up, it has ice and snow up to 60°.
Ruth Mountain46.852886-121.7603742166
Ruth glacier. nccs II.
Wenatchee Mountains
Mount Stuart47.4751-120.90242871
Stuart Glacier couloir: Helmy Beckey, Larry Strathdee
North side
Girth Pillar. nccs V 5.11c/nccs 5.10 A4.
North Ridge. nccs III 5.4; 4,500'.
Listed in Fifty Classic Climbs Of North America. Separetes the Ice cliff glacier (left) and Stuart glacier (right).
Stuart Glacier couloir. nccs III AI2 5th class; 1,200'. 1944-01-01First ascentHelmy Beckey, Larry Strathdee, 1944.
South side
Cascadian Couloir. nccs 2-3 class.
South Washington Cascades
Alpine Lakes Area
Mount Daniel Area
Mount Daniel - NW Peak47.565-121.180833332429
Mount Daniel - NW Peak, ,
First ascent
John Salathé and Ax Nelson
Mount Adams Area
Mount Adams (Pahto)46.2024-121.49093743
The third highest of the Cascade Volcanoes and the second highest mountain in Washington state. Steep Adams Glacier rises over 1350m directly to the summit plateau. This mountain presents multiple challenges.
Mount Adams, ,
First ascent
A. Glenn Aiken, Edward J. Allen, and Andrew J. Burge
Adams Glacier. nccs III 45°; 1350m.
From the road end at Killer Creek.
South Spur. nccs II 30°/F; 6676', 5,7 miles.
Normal route. Easiest and most popular route. From Cold Springs campground (5600').
Mount Rainier (Tahoma)46.8521-121.75794394
Very popular and exessively glaciated mountain. Rainier has routes of all technical levels. Most commonly climbed routes are Disappointment Cleaver and the Emmons Glacier. Also significantly more difficult classic Liberty Ridge is popular. 1300m high north face (willis Wall) is a mighty alpine face, featuring several very serious and seldom climbed routes.
Mount Rainier, ,
First ascent
Hazard Stevens & P. B. Van Trump
Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge,
First ascent
Liberty Ridge: Jim Borrow, Arnie Campbell & Ome Daiber
Mount Rainier, East Rib,
First ascent
East Rib: Dave Mahre, Fred Dunham, Jim Wickwire, Don Anderson
Mount Rainier, Central Rib,
First ascent
Central Rib: Paul Dix, Dean Caldwell
    East side
    Disappointment Cleaver. nccs II 35°/AK1+/IV PD; 1290m.
    Normal route. Considered to be the easiest route on Mount Rainier. From there glacier climb to the summit. Emmons glacier and Ingraham Headwall variations are more demanding options from Camp Muir. .
    Emmons-Winthrop Glacier. nccs II-III 30°/G3; 10,000'.
    Glacier route from NE side.
    North side
    Liberty Ridge. Ice, nccs III-IV AI2/D; III-IV/AI2/50°; 1300m. 1935-01-01First ascentJim Borrow, Arnie Campbell & Ome Daiber, 1935.
    Classic. Classic mountain route in the Cascade Range. Esthetic line rising from Carbon glacier in NW to Liberty Cap (4301m) on Rainier's North side.
    Willis Wall (North face)
    There are several serious routes (IV and upwards) on the north face rising 1300m from Carbon glacier between Curtis Ridge and Liberty Ridges (Liberty Cap 4301m). All routes continue along Liberty Ridge to the summit. The face is very serious due to rock and ice fall danger. Best time for climbing is between January and June. All routes start at White river (total elevation gain 11,400' and require typically 2-4 days)
    • Carbon glacier
    Thermogenesis. nccs IV-V 60°; 1300m.
    West Rib. nccs IV+ 60°; 1300m.
    Ice Cliff. nccs V 85°; 1300m.
    Central Rib. nccs IV+ 60°; 1300m. 1965-06-20First ascentPaul Dix, Dean Caldwell, 1965-06-20.
    • Mount Rainier
    East Rib. nccs IV+ 60°; 1300m. 1963-06-08First ascentDave Mahre, Fred Dunham, Jim Wickwire, Don Anderson, 1963-06-08.
    • Mount Rainier
    East. nccs IV 55°; 1300m.
    South side
    Kautz glacier. Glacier, nccs III 50-60°; 10,800'.
Mount Saint Helens Area
Mount St. Helens (Loowit)46.191388889-122.195555562550
Mount St. Helens, ,
First ascent
Thomas J. Dryer, John Wilson, Smith and Edwin P. or Charles S. Drew
Oregon Cascades
Mount Hood45.3735-121.69593428.8
Mount Hood, ,
First ascent
Henry Pittock, W. Lymen Chittenden, Wilbur Cornell, T.A. Wood
South side
Palmer glacier. nccs II 35°/G2; 1600m.
Sandy Glacier Headwall. nccs III 50°; 1000m.
California Cascades
Mount Shasta41.4092-122.19494322
Volcanic peak located in northern California outside Mt Shasta City. 5th highest peak of California. There are great number of routes from SW, East and N/NE. Most are not too technical (yds class 2 and 3 with few slightly more difficult routes (yds 4-5). The easiest and most popular route is Avalanche Gulch from SW side (yds class 3, 7262').
Mount Shasta, ,
First ascent
Elias D. Pearce and eight others
    Casaval ridge. nccs II+ class 4; 7,400'.

Northwest U.S. Coast Ranges

Olympic Mountains
Central Olympic Mountains
Olympus Group
Mount Olympus47.8013-123.71082432.3
Mount Olympus, ,
First ascent
Lorenz A. Nelson and 10 other members of the Mountaineers Club

Sierra Nevada

Yosemite-Ritter Sierra Nevada
Central Yosemite Sierra
Cathedral Range
Fairview Dome37.746036-119.532942966
Regular route. nccs IV 5.9; 300m.
Yosemite Valley
Half Dome2695
Half Dome's north face is easily recognisable and has host of difficult big wall routes. Cables route on the east side provides easiest access to summit while Snake Dike on the south face is very popular moderate classic.
Half Dome, Cables Route,
First ascent
Cables Route: George C. Anderson
Half Dome, Snake Dike,
First ascent
Snake Dike: Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks
NW face
Iconic sheer rock face with number of difficult routes.
Regular NW face. Rock, VI 5.12/VI 5.9 A2.
Classic. The easiest and the most popular of Half Dome big wall routes.
East side
Cables Route (The Cables). Class 3; 5.4 without the cables. 1875-10-12First ascentGeorge C. Anderson, 1875-10-12.
Normal route. Easiest route to the summit of Half Dome.
South side
Snake Dike. Rock, nccs III 5.7 R/D; 5a; 250m (8 pitches), 3-4h. 1965-01-01First ascentEric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965.
Classic. Very popular rock classic on the south face.
El Capitan2307

1100m northeast and northeast faces of El Capitan are home to modern big wall climbing. There are dozens of routes, many of them considered classics. Average party takes 4-6 days to make their way up, although some routes have been climbed in few hours by world class climbers.

The Southwest Face (left side) of El Capitan is not as steep southeast face, but has many of the classics including Salathe Wall and The Nose. The Southeast Face or "right side" boasts many of the steepest big wall climbs on El Cap.

Besides very hard big wall routes, there are several hiking trails and easier climbing routes as well.

    SW face
    Lurking Fear. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.10,A3; 600m, doable for fast parties in a day.
    One of the easiest big wall routes on El Cap.
    Salathé Wall. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.13b/nccs VI 5.11,A3; 800m.
    The Shield. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.9,A3/ED2; 6a; 800m.
    The Nose. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.11,C1/nccs VI 5.10,A2/nccs VI 5.13c; 950m.
    Classic. Clasisc rock climb on the buttress separating SW and SE faces. Most parties atke two days or more although fast parties can do the route within a day thus achieving much coveted NIAD (Nose in a Day).
    SE face
    The Southeast Face or "right side" boasts many of the steepest big wall climbs on El Cap. The quality of rock varies from excellent to abysmal.
Lost Arrow Spire2112
Lost Arrow Spire, ,
First ascent
John Salathé and Ax Nelson
Cathedral Rocks/Spires2025
Washington Column36.578581-118.2919951813
Astroman. Rock, nccs IV 5.11c/nccs III ED+; 7a/6b,A0; 12 pitches. 1975-05-01First ascentWarren Harding, Glen Denny & Chuck Pratt, 1975-05.
Ritter Range-East Yosemite
Ritter Range
Mount Ritter37.6891-119.19964008
Mount Ritter, ,
First ascent
John Muir
Clyde Minaret3740
Clyde Minaret, ,
First ascent
Norman Clyde
Southeast Yosemite Crest
Mount Lyell37.7394-119.27163999
Mount Lyell, ,
First ascent
John Boies Tileston
Central Sierra Nevada
Evolution Region
Mount Mendell4179
There are several easy routes (yds 3-4 class) nut the peak is best known for steep ice routes on its north side.
Mount Mendell, Mendel Couloir,
First ascent
Mendel Couloir: Felix Knauth & John Whitmer
Mount Mendell, Ice Nine,
First ascent
Ice Nine: Doug Robinson & Dale Bard
North face
330m high north face of Mount Mendell has two of the best known gully climbs in Sierra Nevada: easier right hand couloir is known as Mendel Couloir and more difficult left hand couloir is known as Ice Nine.
Ice Nine (Left hand couloir). nccs IV AI4/WI5; IV AI4/WI5, 5th class; 330m. 1976-01-01First ascentDoug Robinson & Dale Bard, 1976.
Left couloir of the north face. The route varies in conditions dramatically, sometimes it's a mixed rock and ice climb, and other times it is pure alpine ice.
Mendel Couloir (Right hand couloir). nccs III 5.6 AI2 WI3; 60-65°; 330m, 10 pitches. 1958-06-01First ascentFelix Knauth & John Whitmer, 1958-06.
Classic right hand route of the twin couloirs that split the north face of Mount Mendel, offering sustained steep climbing in a remote setting. The first attempt in full ice conditions was by Yvon Chouinard and Dennis Hennek in 1965. They discovered that the ice tools of the day were not up to the task and Couinard went on to reinvent the tools by coming up with the reverse curved pick. .
Mono Recesses-Humphreys Area
Mount Humphreys37.2705-118.6734265
Mount Humphreys, ,
First ascent
Edward C. Hutchinson and James S. Hutchinson
Mount Tom37.3385-118.6574163
Mount Tom, ,
First ascent
Thomas Clark guided by Native Americans
North Palisade37.0943-118.51474341
  • North Palisade (4341m37.0943-118.5147)
  • Polemonium Peak (4292m)
  • Starlight Peak (4292m)
  • Thunderbolt Peak (4268m)
Highest peak of the Palisades group and forth highest in California.
North Palisade, ,
First ascent
James S. Hutchinson, Joseph N. LeConte, James K. Moffitt
U-Notch Couloir and East Ridge. 300m.
This long ice couloir in the dramatic wilderness cirque of the Palisades. After 300m (8 pitches) of ice, rocky ridge leads to summit.
U-Notch & Chimney variation. nccs III-IV 5.2 50°/AD; 300m.
Clyde Couloir. 300m.
Mount Sill4316
Mount Sill, ,
First ascent
Joseph LeConte, James Moffitt, James Hutchinson, Robert Pike
class 2/3.
Polemonium Peak4292
Located in Palisades region of the Sierra Nevada, next to North Palisade.
V-notch couloir. nccs III AI2; II/AI2 WI3/50-60°; 300m.
The twin couloir to the nearby U-Notch. The V-Notch Couloir is steeper and narrower and less frequented.
Middle Palisade4273
class 4.
Sequoia Sierra Nevada
Mount Whitney Group
Mount Whitney36.5786-118.2924421
The highest point in the continental United States.
Mount Whitney, Mountaineer's Route,
First ascent
Mountaineer's Route: John Muir
Mount Whitney, ,
First ascent
Charles Begole, Albert Johnson, John Lucas
Mount Whitney, East Face,
First ascent
East Face: Robert Underhill, Glen Dawson, Jules Eichorn & Norman Clyde
    Whitney Trail. nccs I 1st class.
    Normal route. Trail from Whitney Portal. Hike from Whitney Portal - Lone Pine Lake - Big Horn Sheep Park - Mirror Lake - Trailside Meadow - Trail Camp - Trail Crest - JMT Junction - Summit.
    East Face. nccs III 5.6-5.9/AD; 5b/5a,A0; 1,000'/5,860'. 1931-01-01First ascentRobert Underhill, Glen Dawson, Jules Eichorn & Norman Clyde, 1931.
    Mountaineer's Route. . 1873-01-01First ascentJohn Muir, 1873.
    Most direct non-technical route to the summit of Mt. Whitney. 3rd class rock. From Whitney portal campground and follows the Whitney trail - North Fork Trail - "Ebersbacher Ledges" - Lower Boy Scout Lake - Clyde Meadows - base of East Face of Mt. Whitney - Iceberg Lake camp site. 6-8h. From the camp up the couloir right of the East Buttress (3rd class rock, 45° snow during the winter). From the notch on top of couloir there are two options: 1) traverse to the west to easy west slopes or 2)climb wide chute just to the west of the notch ("via ledges and ribs", 3rd class) to the summit plateau. .
Mount Williamson36.6559-118.31114386
class 4.
Mount Russell4296
Mount Russell, ,
First ascent
Norman Clyde

Mexico & Central America

Central Mexico
Cordillera Neovolcanica
Pico de Orizaba (Volcán Citlaltépetl)19.0305-97.26985636
Third highest mountain in North-America. Can be climbed from all sides with non-technical ascents (F-PD). The only technical route is "the Serpent's Head" (AD, WI3) on the west side.
Pico de Orizaba, ,
First ascent
F. Maynard & William F. Raynolds
    North side
    Glacier de Jamapa. nccs III 30°/III PD-; 1350m.
Volcán Iztaccíhuatl19.1792-98.64195230
Nevado de Toluca (Volcán Xinantécatl)19.102-99.76764690

Intermountain West

Columbia Mountains

Mount Sir Sandford51.6567-117.86783522
Mount Sir Sandford, ,
First ascent
Edward Feuz Jr., Rudolph Aemmer, Howard Palmer, Edward W. D. Holway
Purcell Mountains
Howser Tower3412
  • North Howser Tower (3412m)
  • South Howser Tower (3292m)
North Howser Tower
All Along the Watchtower. Rock, nccs VI 5.11 C2- R; 1000m, 32 pitches. 1981-08-01First ascentWard Robinson, Jim Walseth, 1981-08.
South Howser Tower
Beckey-Chouinard (West Buttress – South Howser Tower). Rock, nccs V 5.10a,A0/TD+; 3,500', 15 pitches. 1961-08-01First ascentFred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, 1961-08.
Classic. Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.
  • Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Bugaboo Spire53.110278-119.1566673186
Bugaboo Spire, ,
First ascent
Conrad Kain, Albert MacCarthy, Bess MacCarthy, and John Vincent
South side
Kain route (South Ridge). nccs III 5.6+ 40°/III AD.
North side
North-East Ridge. nccs IV 5.7/D-; 450m.
Selkirk Mountains
Purcell Mountains
Glacier National Park
Mount Sir Donald51.2631-117.43143284
Mount Sir Donald, ,
First ascent
Emil Huber, Carl Sulzer, Harry Cooper
North side
NW Ridge. nccs III 5.2-5.3/D-.

Great Basin Ranges

West Great Basin Ranges
White Mountains
White Mountain Peak37.6341-118.25574344
class 1.

Colorado Plateau

La Sal Mountains
Castleton Tower2029
Castleton Tower, ,
First ascent
Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls
Chuska Mountains
Solitary volcanic monolith of Shiprock rises 600m above the plains. After Mount Waddington got climbed in 1936, shiprock was the last big mountaineering problem to be solved in US. First ascent was finally made in 1939 using aid climbing techniques. First ascent was probably the first time bolts were placed in American mountaineering. Most climbing routes are located on over 1km wide west face.
Shiprock, ,
First ascent
David Brower, Raffi Bedayn, Bestor Robinson and John Dyer
    West face
    Standard route. Rock, nccs IV 5.9,A1/Rus 3B; 550m, 5h.

Rocky Mountains

Canadian Rockies

Continental Ranges
Park Ranges
Northern Continental RangesRainbow Range
Mount Robson53.110278-119.1566673945
Canada, Canadian Rockies.

"Monarch of the Canadian Rockies", Mount Robson is the highest peak in Canadian Rockies. It is located in Mount Robson Provincial park, to the S/W side of northern part of Jasper National Park.

The base of the mountain is at 985m, therefore all of the climbs are large scale and typically take 3-4 days to complete car-to-car. There are no high altitude huts available.

Mount Robson, ,
First ascent
Conrad Kain via Kain Face
    East side
    Kain Face (NE face). Ice, nccs IV 48°/D/NZ3+/4; 48°; 250m/2290m. 1913-01-01First ascentConrad Kain, 1913.
    Normal route, classic. Classic ice route on the east side of the mountain. Shorter and easier than north face, the most popular route on Mount Robson.
    North face
    North Face. Ice, nccs IV 55°/D+; 55°; 850m/2290m. 3-4 days from car to car. 1900-01-01Mount Robson, North Face, First ascent .
    Classic. Classic route on remote and elegant ice face, one of the most popular north faces in the range. First winter ascent by T. Sorenson and A. Henault in 1978. .
    Fuhrer Ridge. nccs IV 5.4/D+; 5.4; 670m/2290m. 3-4 days from car to car.
    Emperor Face (NE Face)
    Vertical and overhanging 2500m high wall of rock and ice presenting one of the most fierce technical challenges of the Canadian Rockies.
    Cheesmond-Dick. Mixed, nccs VI 5.9,A2/ED.
    Stump-Logan. Mixed, nccs VI 5.9,A2/ED.
    House-Haley. Mixed, nccs WI5 M7; 1750m. 2007-05-27First ascentSteve House & Colin Haley, 2007-05-27.
    Infinite Patience. Mixed, nccs VI WI5 M5 5.9/ED3; WI5 M5, 5.9; 2200m.
    Emperor Ridge (NE Ridge). nccs V 5.6/TD; 2500m.
    West face
    Wishbone arete. nccs IV 5.6; 2950m, usually 3 days.
    Loose rock.
Central Main RangesSouth Jasper rangesCavell Group
Mount Edith Cavell3363
Located in Cavell group of South jasper Range, just to the south of city of Jasper. Most important peak of the area. Both East Ridge and North face are classic climbs.
East side
East Ridge. nccs III 5.3/D.
North side
North Face. Mixed, nccs IV 5.7/TD; 10-13h. 1961-06-01First ascentFred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard & D. Doody, 1961-06.
Columbia Icefield Area
Mount Alberta3619
Mount Alberta is the highest peak in Winston Churchill range, located in southern part of Jasper National park, northeastern part of Columbia Icefield.
North Face
Very difficult 1000m mixed face. Highly coveted extreme test piece.NE Ridge is somewhat easier at V 5.10.
  • Mount Alberta hut
North Face. nccs VI 5.9,A3 WI4/ED3; 1000m. 1972-01-01First ascentGreg Lowe & J. Glidden, 1972.
North Face. WI5+ M8 R/X; 1000m. 2008-03-28First ascentSteve House & Vince Anderson, 2008-03-28.
East face
Japanese route. Mixed, 12-15h from the bivouac under the roped climbing. 1925-01-01First ascentJapanese group with Swiss guides, 1925.
Mount Columbia3747
The second highest peak in Canadian Rockies located in Winston Churchill Range.
North Twin3684
  • North Twin (3684m)
  • Twins Tower (3627m)
Located in Winston Churchill Range in NE part of Columbia Icefield. Together with somewhat lower South Twin (3566m) Nort Twin forms the Twins Massif. Third highest peak in Canadian Rockies.
East side
East slopes. nccs I.
Normal route. Easy ascent that can be skied all the way to the summit.
North Face
Very different side from gentle East side with nearly vertical wall rising 1500m from the glacier below to culminate in Twins Tower. All routes on the face are very difficult and serious with objective danger from rock and serac fall.
Lowe-Jones. nccs VI 5.10,A3/ED3/4; 4,500'. 1973-01-01First ascentGeorge Lowe & Chris Jones, 1973.
Mount Kitchener3505

Located in the Upper Sunwapta River Valley north of Dome Glacier.

The landmark routes are Grand Central Couloir and slightly easier the Ramp. Easiest route is South-West Slopes (I).

Firsta ascent by Alfred J. Ostheimer & Hans Fuhrer in 1927.

South side
SW slopes. nccs I; 1500m.
North face
The impressive 1000m high north face of the mountain is bad rock, with no convenient bivi ledges, and typically takes more than 24 hours with a light pack from a bivi at the base.
Grand Central Couloir. Ice, nccs V 5.9 AI4/ED; V/AI4 M6 VS, 5.9; 1000m, 8-16h. 1974-08-01First ascentMike Weis & Jeff Lowe, 1974-08.
Classic. Most obvious route through 4000 feet face. Big , objectively hazardous climb. Almost pure ice with two difficult mixed pitches in upper gully.
  • Ice World pp205-209
Ramp route. Ice, nccs V 5.8,A1/TD+; 1000m.
Somewhat easier alternative to Grand Central Couloir.
Mount Athabasca52.18-117.1953491
Canada, Canadian Rockies, Columbia Icefield. Very popular peak located in Columbia Icefield.
North Face
North glacier. nccs II 45°/PD; 1500m.
Regular North Face. Snow/ice, nccs III 5.4/D-; 52°; 7-8 pitches.
Classic. Rocky mountains classic. The face consists of 40-50 degree ice leading to a short crux through the rock band.
Hourglass. Snow/ice, nccs III 5.5/D-; 7-8 pitches.
At the very right-hand end of the top rockband is a serac barrier. The climb sneaks up between the rock and the serac on a strip of ice. The crux is steeper and more technical than the Regular N Face route.
Silberhorn. Snow/ice, nccs II/III 35°/AD.
Somewhat steeper than the Normal Route and hence a little more challenging.
North Ridge. nccs II-III 5.5/AD.
Athabasca/Andromeda (AA col). nccs II 40°.
Mount Andromeda52.176667-117.2316673450
Canada, Canadian Rockies, Columbia Icefield. Popular peak located in Columbia icefields and separated from Mount Athabasca by a col. There are relatively easy routes like Skyladder, as well as the test piece Andromeda Strain. Rock is typically of poor quality
North side
Skyladder. Snow/ice, nccs II AI2/AD+; II/AI2/45°; 1400m.
Normal route. The most popular route.
Andromeda Strain. nccs V 5.9,A2 WI4/ED1; 1400m total.
Through the prominent gully system bisecting the NE face. One of the Rockies "grandes courses" and possibly the most repeated hard route. Technical part is shorter but considered more difficult than Grand Central Couloir of Grand Kitchener.

Located on the continental divide on the Columbia Icefield between Dome Glacier and Athabasca Glacier.

First ascent by Norman Collie, H.E.M. Stutfield & H. Woolley in 1898.

East face
Slipstream. Ice, nccs V WI4+; VI/WI4+/80°; 925m.
A beautiful and dangerous route.
Central Icefields
Mount Forbes3612
Highest peak in Banff
Howse Peak3290
The highest mountain in the Waputik Range. Located above Chephren Lake.
East side
Few grade VI winter ice routes exist on the East Face.
NE Buttress. . 1967-01-01First ascentDon Vockeroth, Lloyd MacKay & Ken Baker, 1967.
M-16. ED++/nccs VI WI7+ A2; 1000,. 1999-01-01First ascentSteve House, Scott Backes, Barry Blanchard, 1999.
North face
North face. . 1988-01-01First ascentW. Robinson & Barry Blanchard, 1988.
Cirrus Mountain3270
Polar Circus. Ice, TD; V WI5; 500m.
Weeping Wall. Ice,
Mount Chephren3266
The Wild Thing. nccs VI 5.9+,A3 WI5; 3-4 days.
Mount Patterson3197
East face
Riptide. Ice, IV M7; 225m.
Southern Continental RangesBanff-Lake Louise Core AreaLake Louise
Wiwaxy Peak2703
Located in Lake O'Hara in Yoho National Park. Located a little to the north of Mount Temple in Bow range
South side
Grassi Ridge (SW Ridge). Rock, 300m/10 pitches.
Mount Temple3543
Highest peak in the Bow Range, located to the south of Lake Louise and to the north of valley of Ten Peaks. Sometimes called "Eiger of the Rockies".
SW side
SW Ridge. nccs I 4th class/I PD; 5,545' from Moraine lake. 4-6h.
Normal route. One of the most popular routes in the Rockies.
East Ridge
East Ridge. nccs IV 5.7 40°; Classic ridge climb, one of the 50 Classic climbs of North America. Both longer and more serious than East ridge of Edith Cavell.
North face
Elzinga-Miller. nccs IV 5.7,A1.
Dangerous but the most popular route on the face.
Greenwood-Locke. nccs V 5.8,A2/TD+; 5.8,A2/5.9 M6; 1200m.
Safest but the most technical route on the face.
Mount Victoria3464
SE side of South summit
SE Ridge. nccs II; 542m, 3-5h/6-9h round trip.
SW face
SW face. .
Mount Lefroy3424
Located SE of Mount Victoria, on the border of Yoho National Park.
West Face
West Face. Snow/ice, nccs II 35°; 2-5h from the hut.
Normal route. Very popular climb on low-angle snow/ice.
Mount Aberdeen3151
East side
East slope. .
Valley of Ten Peaks
Mount Fay3234
Located in the Valley of the Ten Peaks in the northernmost part of Kootenay National Park.
North face
There are several snow/ice routes on this 400m ice face with general angle of 40-50°: "Roth/Kallen", "Chouinard Route" and "Berle/Kallen" are all grade II, "Centre Ice Bulge Direct" is the most difficult of the routes on the face at III. Typically routes take 1-3h from the bergshrund to the summit.
Centre Ice Bulge Direct. Snow/ice, 400m.
East face
Most difficult climbing to be found in the valley of Tean Peaks (V/VI 5.8 WI5).
Stanley Peak3155
North Face
Kahl Route. Ice, .
Nemesis. Ice, 3-4 pitches. 1974-03-01First ascentBugs McKeith & co., 1974-03.
  • 50 Favorites #4
Assiniboine Area
Mount Assiniboine3618
"Matterhorn of the Canadian Rockies". Located on the southern part of Canadian Rockies. The mixed north ridge is a classic climb (IV 5.5).
North side
North Ridge. Mixed, 6-7h.
East side
East face is very difficult at V 5.9,A2 while East Buttress is somewhat easier (IV 5.7).
  • Access to the face is from R.C. Hind hut via col between Mount Assiniboine and Mount Magog.

Northern Rocky Mountains

Southern Rocky Mountains
Central Montana Rocky Mountains
Central Montana RangesBig Belt Mountains
Devils Tower (Rocky Mountains, 1937-07-28)1637
Devils Tower, ,
First ascent
Fritz Wiessner, William P. House, Lawrence P. Coveney
Glacier National Park RangesLewis RangeNorthern Lewis Range
Mount Cleveland (Rocky Mountains, 1920-08-12)3194
Mount Cleveland, ,
First ascent
Harry R. Horn, John F. Habbe, Frank B. Wynn
Livingston Range
Kinnerly Peak (Rocky Mountains, 1937-08)3032
Kinnerly Peak, ,
First ascent
Norman Clyde, Ed Hall, Richard K. Hill and Braeme Gigos
Greater Yellowstone Rockies
Teton Range-Yellowstone AreaTeton Range
Mount Moran43.835-110.77653844
Mount Moran, ,
First ascent
LeGrand Hardy, Bennet McNulty and Ben C. Rich
South Teton3750
Cathedral Group
Grand Teton43.7412-110.80244199
There are over 90 routes and variations of routes to the summit. North Face One of America's most awesome mountain walls, expect over 20 pitches of rock and snow climbing. Difficulty: 5.8 to 5.9 with steep snow and ice.
Grand Teton, Owen-Spalding,
First ascent
Owen-Spalding: William Owen and Franklin Spaulding on
    West face & the Enclosure
    Routes are remote, long and often verglassed. This side features two of probably the best known ice climbs on Grand Teton, "Black Ice Couloir" and "Enclosure Couloir".
    • Valhalla Canyon or from Lower saddle between Middle Teton and Grand Teton via Valhalla traverse.
    Northwest Ridge. nccs V 5.7; V; 1433m, 2 days from Cascade Canyon.
    The longest route on Grand Teton.
    Black Ice Couloir. Ice, nccs IV AI3+ 5.7/TD-/TD; IV/AI3+, 5.7; 640m/15 pitches, 7-10h.
    Classic. Classic ice climb between the Grand Teton and the Enclosure. Subject to rockfall.
    Enclosure couloir. Ice, nccs IV 5.7 AI3/D-; AI3, 5.7/V; 640m, 12 pitches. 7-9h.
    Classic ice climb, approached via the Valhalla Traverse. Finishing via NW Ridge makes this 12 pitch alpine classic.
    South side
    Most climbed side of Grand Teton. Lower Saddle between Middle Teton and Grand Teton, located 1550m above jackson Hole is usable high camp.
    • From Lupine meadows trailhead. Camping is best in Garnet Canyon meadow.
    Exum Ridge (SW Ridge, Complete Exum ridge). Rock, nccs III 5.7-5.8/III AD+/D; 5.7-5.8/5a/IV+/V; 450m/2197m, 6 pitches. 8h for Lower Exum ridge (to summit), 5-6h for Upper Exum Ridge.
    Classic. An outstanding long alpine rock climb. Six steep pitches of 5.7 to 5.8 climbing on excellent rock.
    Upper Exum Ridge. nccs II 5.5/III AD+; 4c/IV; 640m/2650m.
    Owen-Spalding. Rock, nccs II 5.4; III; 640m/2656m. 1900-01-01First ascentWilliam Owen and Franklin Spaulding on.
    Normal route. First ascent route. From Garnet Canyon to Lower Saddle between Middle Teton and Grand Teton.
    North face
    • North face. Turquoise- East Ridge, Yellow-East Ridge, var King-Fitch, Orange-Route Canal, Red-North Molar Tooth Couloir, Green-Northeast Couloir, AKA Hossack/MacGowan, Blue-Grand North Couloir, AKA Shea’s Chute, Black Dots-Squeeze Box, Pink-Northeast Couloir, var Sinclar-Ortenburger, Purple-North Face, var Direct Finish.
    North Ridge. nccs IV 5.8; V-; 1048m/2230m.
    North Face. nccs IV 5.7+; VI-; 1048m/2230m.
    Route Canal. Mixed, nccs IV IW5 5.9; IV IW5, 5.9; 1048m/2230m. 8-12h.
    Serious mixed route up a nearly vertical chute. Seldiom in condition.
Middle Teton3903
SW side
SW couloir. F; 4th class; 1810m.
NW side
NW Couloir. nccs II AI2-3 5.6; 4 pitches.
Classic gully climb from Exum hut. Five pitches of 45-55° ice (max. 70°).
Middle Teton Glacier. .
South Teton3750
NW side
NW couloir. nccs I/F; 200m/1750m.
Wind River Range
Gannett Peak43.1842-109.65424209
Gannett Peak, ,
First ascent
Arthur C. Tate and Floyd J. Stahlnaker
Lizard Head Peak42.7901-109.19783916
Lizard Head Peak, ,
First ascent
Albert R. Ellingwood and Barton Hoag
Northern Wind River Range
Fremont Peak (Rocky Mountains, 1842-08-14)4189
Fremont Peak, ,
First ascent
John C. Fremont, Charles Preuss and Johnny Janisse

Southern Rocky Mountains

Beartooth Range
Granite Peak45.1634-109.80753904
Granite Peak, ,
First ascent
Elers Koch, James C. Whitham and Robert T. Ferguson
Elk Mountains
Maroon Peak39.0708-106.9894317
Maroon Peak, ,
First ascent
Percy Hagerman
Front Range
Rocky Mountain National Park Area
Longs Peak Massif
Longs Peak40.255-105.61514346
Long's Peak, located in Front Range, is Colorado's northernmost fourteener and the only 14neer in Rocky Mountains National Park. It's close proximity to Denver and its pure majesty make it popular climbing mountain.
Longs Peak, ,
First ascent
John Wesley Powell, Walter Powell, Lewis Keplinger, Samuel Garman, Williams Byers, Jack Sumner and Ned Faarrell
Longs Peak, Casual Route,
First ascent
Casual Route: D. Furgason & C. Reveley
South side
Keyhole. Rock, nccs II 3rd class; 5,000', 7,5 miles.
East Face
Kiener's route. Rock, nccs III 5.3 AI2/II D; III AI2 M1+, 4b; 2,000'.
Alexander's Chimney/The Notch. Rock, nccs IV AI4 5.5/M4; IV/AI4 M4; 2,000' (5 pitches).
Smear of Fear. Ice, IV/WI6 M6; 3 pitches.
NE face, The Diamond
Casual Route. Rock, nccs IV 5.10a/TD; 275m. 1977-01-01First ascentD. Furgason & C. Reveley, 1977.
Classic. The Casual Route is just one of several excellent classic lines on Long's famous Diamond, the finest alpine rock face in the Colorado Rockies.
Petit Meeker4240
Dreamweaver couloir. Ice, nccs III AI2+ M2; 1,500'.
The Spearhead3833
North Ridge. nccs III 5.6.
Southern Rocky Mountain National Park Crest
Petit Grepon43.741208-110.8024143658
SW Corner. nccs III 5.9.
Southern Front Range
Pikes Peak Massif
Pikes Peak38.8405-105.04424302
Pikes Peak, ,
First ascent
Edwin James and two others
Sangre de Cristo Mountains
Northern Sangre de Cristo Range
Crestone Peak37.9668-105.58554359
Crestone Peak, ,
First ascent
Albert R. Ellingwood, Frances Rogers, Eleanor Davis Ehrman and Joe Deutschbein
Sierra Blanca Massif
Blanca Peak37.5775-105.48574374
Blanca Peak, ,
First ascent
Wheeler Survey
Sawatch Range
Central Sawatch Range
Saguache Range
Mount Elbert39.1178-106.44544401
Located in the Sawatch Range of the Colorado Rockies, Mount Elbert is the highest mountain of Colorado and Rocky Mountains.
Mount Elbert, ,
First ascent
Henry W. Stuckle

Arctic Cordillera

Baffin Mountains

Baffin Island

Mount Odin66.55-65.43332147
The highest peak of Baffin Island
Mount Asgard2015
  • North summit
  • South summit
While not the highest peak of Baffin Island, Mount Asgard is certainly the most famous. The has been involved in the opening sequence of James Bond film "The Spy Who Loved Me". In more recent years it has also been featured in few climbing films.
Mount Asgard, Swiss Route,
First ascent
Swiss Route: Hans Weber, J. Marmet-Rothlisberger & F. Schwarzenbach
Mount Asgard, ,
First ascent
Jürg Marmet, Hans Röthlisberger, Hans Weber and Fritz Hans Schwarzenbach
Mount Asgard, Original South peak route,
First ascent
Original South peak route: G. lee, P. Koch & R. Wood
Mount Asgard, East Pillar,
First ascent
East Pillar: P. Braithwaite, D. Hennek, P. Nunn & Doug Scott
Mount Asgard, Porter route,
First ascent
Porter route: Charlie Porter
Mount Asgard, American Variant,
First ascent
American Variant: M. Hesse & H. Kent
Mount Asgard, West Face Direct,
First ascent
West Face Direct: J. Nagley, J. Berbella, W. McCartney & E. Redfern
Mount Asgard, Italian route,
First ascent
Italian route: F. Leoni, L. Luca, F. De Francesco & M. Manica
Mount Asgard, Arctic Dreams,
First ascent
Arctic Dreams: R. Tanner & J. Eysell
Mount Asgard, German Variant,
First ascent
German Variant: F. Perchtold, A. Fuchs, W. Wahl & C. Krah
Mount Asgard, Valkyrie,
First ascent
Valkyrie: C. Breemer & B. Jarrett
Mount Asgard, Hyperborea,
First ascent
Hyperborea: N. Craine, P. Pritchard, S. Quinlan & J. Tosas
Mount Asgard, Inukshuk,
First ascent
Inukshuk: J.M. Zweiacker, D. Burdet, C. Hoffat & P. Robert
Mount Asgard, Spanish route,
First ascent
Spanish route: T. Lizaeeaga, R. Melero, M. Berazaluze & N. Barriuso
Mount Asgard, Bavarian Direct,
First ascent
Bavarian Direct: Christian Schlesener, Mani Reichelt, Toni Grad, Luck Guscelli & Markus Bruckbauer
Mount Asgard, Belgarian,
First ascent
Belgarian: Olivier Favresse, Nicolas Favresse, Stephane Hanssens & Sean Villanueva
Mount Asgard, North Peak, NW face,
First ascent
North Peak, NW face: Leo Houlding & Sean Leary
Mount Asgard, Sensory Overload,
First ascent
Sensory Overload: Ines Papert, Jon Walsh & Joshua Lavigne
South peak, East side
Original South peak route. TD/nccs V 5.8; 1 day. 1971-01-01First ascentG. lee, P. Koch & R. Wood, 1971.
Arctic Dreams. 1 day. 1991-01-01First ascentR. Tanner & J. Eysell, 1991.
North peak, East side
Swiss Route (North Peak, east side). nccs IV 5.7 A1/nccs IV 5.9. 1953-01-01First ascentHans Weber, J. Marmet-Rothlisberger & F. Schwarzenbach, 1953.
Normal route. Via the col between Asgard peaks.
East Pillar. nccs VI 5.10. 1972-01-01First ascentP. Braithwaite, D. Hennek, P. Nunn & Doug Scott, 1972.
German Variant. nccs VI. 1991-01-01First ascentF. Perchtold, A. Fuchs, W. Wahl & C. Krah, 1991.
American Variant. 5.9. 1977-01-01First ascentM. Hesse & H. Kent, 1977.
North Peak, North side
Valkyrie. nccs VI A4+; 14 pitches. 1994-01-01First ascentC. Breemer & B. Jarrett, 1994.
North Peak, NW side
Inukshuk. nccs VI 5.10 A3+; 800m. 1995-01-01First ascentJ.M. Zweiacker, D. Burdet, C. Hoffat & P. Robert, 1995.
Spanish route. nccs VI 5.8 A4; 800m. 1995-01-01First ascentT. Lizaeeaga, R. Melero, M. Berazaluze & N. Barriuso, 1995.
Hyperborea (British route). E4 6a,A4; 1000m. 1994-01-01First ascentN. Craine, P. Pritchard, S. Quinlan & J. Tosas, 1994.
North Peak, NW face. E6 6b. 2011-01-01First ascentLeo Houlding & Sean Leary, 2011.
North Peak, West side
Porter route. nccs VI 5.12 A4; 40 pitches. 1975-01-01First ascentCharlie Porter, 1975.
South Peak, NW side
Sensory Overload. Rock, 5.11+,A1; 1200m. 2012-07-26First ascentInes Papert, Jon Walsh & Joshua Lavigne, 2012-07-26.
West Face Direct. Rock, VI 5.10 A4. 1988-01-01First ascentJ. Nagley, J. Berbella, W. McCartney & E. Redfern, 1988.
Bavarian Direct. Rock, 1997-01-01First ascentChristian Schlesener, Mani Reichelt, Toni Grad, Luck Guscelli & Markus Bruckbauer, 1997.
Belgarian. Rock, 5.13,A1; 850m. 2009-01-01First ascentOlivier Favresse, Nicolas Favresse, Stephane Hanssens & Sean Villanueva, 2009.
Almost completely free variation to Bavarian Direct.
South Peak, West side
Italian route. Rock, 1988-01-01First ascentF. Leoni, L. Luca, F. De Francesco & M. Manica, 1988.
Joins Original South peak route somewhat above the col.
Mount Thor1675
West face features the Earth's greatest vertical drop of 1250m, with the cliff overhanging at an average angle of 15 degrees from vertical.
Mount Thor, ,
First ascent
Donald Morton & Lyman Spitzer
Mount Thor, ,
Earl Redfern, John Bagley, Eric Brand & Tom Bepler
Mount Thor, ,
Bill Borger & John Furneaux
West face
Earth's greatest vertical drop of 1250m, with the cliff overhanging at an average angle of 15 degrees from vertical.
Polar Sun Spire1500
Polar Sun Spire, ,
First ascent
Peter Gobet and Xaver Bongard
  • Top Climbs pp.120-123
Great Sail Peak
Great Sail Peak, Rubicon,
First ascent
Rubicon: Alexander Odintsov, Alexander Ruchkin, Alexander Klenov, Mikhail Davy & Valery Rosov
Rubicon. nccs VI 5.11a,A4/ED2; 1150m. 2002-06-10First ascentAlexander Odintsov, Alexander Ruchkin, Alexander Klenov, Mikhail Davy & Valery Rosov, 2002-06-10.
Climbed by Russian team as part of ‘The Russian Way – Walls of the World’ project. At the end of the ascent, Valeri Rozov jumped off the wall in a ‘winged’ suit.

Ellesmere Island

Barbeau Peak81.9083-75.0252616
Barbeau Peak, ,
First ascent
Geoffrey Hattersley-Smith


New Hampshire

Mount Washington44.270489-71.3032461917
United States, Appalachian Mountains, White Mountains.

Located in White Mountains (Appalachians, New Hampshire), Mount Washington is the highest peak in the northeastern United States.

Deep gorges cut into the eastern and northern faces. Despite the fact, that there's a road leading to the summit, Mount Washington is popular among climbers. Huntington Ravine on the east side is Mt. Washington's climbing hot spot. The giant gorge has a multitude of rocky walls and gullies very suitable for rock and ice climbing.

First ascent by Darbey Field in 1642.

nccs road.
Huntington ravine
Deep gorge of Huntington ravine located on the east side is Mt. Washington's climbing hot spot. The giant gorge has a multitude of rocky walls and gullies very suitable for rock and ice climbing. Routes are usually between 200m and 300m in height. Summer climbing is mostly done on the Pinnacle, a sheer, rocky buttress which juts out from the south side of the ravine headwall. It has a large, vertical face on the north which is a challenge for even the most experienced climbers. On its south side is Pinnacle Gully, a great place to embark on your first multi-pitch rock climb. Huntington Ravive is where modern ice climbing began in the United States during the late 1960s. There are several popular alpine routes: South, Odell's, Pinnacle, & Central Gullies, the Diagonal, and Yale, Damnation, & North Gullies. Some are very technical routes involving waterfall ice climbing; others are 45° snow climbs.
  • Huntington ravine on the east side
Odell's Gully. nccs III WI 2-3/D; 85°; 200m. 1928-01-01First ascentNoel E. Odell, Lincoln O'Brien, J.C. Hurd & Robert L.M. Underhill, 1928.
Broad ice fall. Difficulties vary, left side is around WI3+, center is WI2-3 and right side WI3-4+.
Pinnacle Buttress. nccs III 5.7.
5-6 pitch rock climb on the NE Ridge Pinnacle.
Pinnacle Gully. nccs III WI2+/3/D; III/WI2+/3/80°/NEI 3; 200m/1300m. 1900-01-01First ascentSamuel A. Scoville & Julian Whittlesey.
Possible both in summer and winter. During the winter.
South Gully. I/WI1/1+/NEI NEI 1; 1300m (total).
Mostly snow with little bit of ice.
North Gully. Ice/mixed, AD; II/3; 300m.
Ice/mixed. Crux is first 10 meters (70°), after that snow (45°) and little mixed at the top. First ascent by Maynard M.Milelr & William Latedy in 12/1942. .
Damnation Gully. AD+; III/3/70°; 300m. 1929-01-01First ascentRobert Underhill & Lincoln O'Brien, 1929.
Central Gully. AD; II/2/65°; 300m. 1900-01-01First ascentAJ Holden & NL Goodrich.
Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle. nccs III 5.7; 5-6 pitches.
North Ridge. nccs I 5.1; 1300m (total).
Tuckerman ravine


Mount Katahdin45.904354-68.9212741606
United States, Appalachian Mountains, Baxter State Park. Mount Katahdin is the highest mountain in Maine and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. It is located within Baxter State Park. There are many regular routes that all involve some scrambling from second to fourth class and come from three general directions, north, east and southwest. For climbers there are several rock routes during the summer. During the winter, Katahdin offers the most remote winter climbing in New England, whether it be on the routes leading to summit or challenging ice and snow routes on the basin headwalls. The Pamola ice cliffs offer several difficult ice climbs. Most are Grade II, NEI 4+ or harder.
North side
Northern normal route. nccs hike.
Chimney. nccs II 5.5; 650m.
Mildly technical 650m couloir connecting Chimney Pond to knife edge. Typically 12h roundtrip (car to car). During the winter II NEI 2. .
Armadillo Buttress. nccs III 5.8.
The most popular route on the mountain straight up the striking central buttress in the South Basin cirque.
Cilley-Barber. IV WI4/NEI NEI 4. 1973-01-01First ascentHenry Barber & Dick Cilley, 1973.
Signature winter route on Katahdin.