Reflections at Mount Assiniboine, located at the border between Alberta and British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Jeffrey Pang,  Shot on 2012-03-14 Photo taken in British Columbia, Canada.(c) Jeffrey Pang, licensed under: CC BY 2.0.
Reflections at Mount Assiniboine, located at the border between Alberta and British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Jeffrey Pang, Shot on 2012-03-14 Photo taken in British Columbia, Canada.(c) Jeffrey Pang, licensed under: CC BY 2.0.

Continental Ranges

Park Ranges

Northern Continental Ranges

Rainbow Range
Mount Robson53.110278-119.1566673945
Canada, Canadian Rockies.

"Monarch of the Canadian Rockies", Mount Robson is the highest peak in Canadian Rockies. It is located in Mount Robson Provincial park, to the S/W side of northern part of Jasper National Park.

The base of the mountain is at 985m, therefore all of the climbs are large scale and typically take 3-4 days to complete car-to-car. There are no high altitude huts available.

1913-01-01
Mount Robson, ,
First ascent
Conrad Kain via Kain Face
    East side
    Kain Face (NE face). Ice, nccs IV 48°/D/NZ3+/4; 48°; 250m/2290m. 1913-01-01First ascentConrad Kain, 1913.
    Normal route, classic. Classic ice route on the east side of the mountain. Shorter and easier than north face, the most popular route on Mount Robson.
    North face
    North Face. Ice, nccs IV 55°/D+; 55°; 850m/2290m. 3-4 days from car to car. 1900-01-01Mount Robson, North Face, First ascent .
    Classic. Classic route on remote and elegant ice face, one of the most popular north faces in the range. First winter ascent by T. Sorenson and A. Henault in 1978. .
    Fuhrer Ridge. nccs IV 5.4/D+; 5.4; 670m/2290m. 3-4 days from car to car.
    Emperor Face (NE Face)
    Vertical and overhanging 2500m high wall of rock and ice presenting one of the most fierce technical challenges of the Canadian Rockies.
    Cheesmond-Dick. Mixed, nccs VI 5.9,A2/ED.
    Stump-Logan. Mixed, nccs VI 5.9,A2/ED.
    House-Haley. Mixed, nccs WI5 M7; 1750m. 2007-05-27First ascentSteve House & Colin Haley, 2007-05-27.
    Infinite Patience. Mixed, nccs VI WI5 M5 5.9/ED3; WI5 M5, 5.9; 2200m.
    Emperor Ridge (NE Ridge). nccs V 5.6/TD; 2500m.
    West face
    Wishbone arete. nccs IV 5.6; 2950m, usually 3 days.
    Loose rock.

Central Main Ranges

South Jasper ranges
Cavell Group
Mount Edith Cavell3363
Located in Cavell group of South jasper Range, just to the south of city of Jasper. Most important peak of the area. Both East Ridge and North face are classic climbs.
East side
East Ridge. nccs III 5.3/D.
North side
North Face. Mixed, nccs IV 5.7/TD; 10-13h. 1961-06-01First ascentFred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard & D. Doody, 1961-06.
Columbia Icefield Area
Mount Alberta3619
Mount Alberta is the highest peak in Winston Churchill range, located in southern part of Jasper National park, northeastern part of Columbia Icefield.
North Face
Very difficult 1000m mixed face. Highly coveted extreme test piece.NE Ridge is somewhat easier at V 5.10.
  • Mount Alberta hut
North Face. nccs VI 5.9,A3 WI4/ED3; 1000m. 1972-01-01First ascentGreg Lowe & J. Glidden, 1972.
North Face. WI5+ M8 R/X; 1000m. 2008-03-28First ascentSteve House & Vince Anderson, 2008-03-28.
East face
Japanese route. Mixed, 12-15h from the bivouac under the roped climbing. 1925-01-01First ascentJapanese group with Swiss guides, 1925.
Mount Columbia3747
The second highest peak in Canadian Rockies located in Winston Churchill Range.
North Twin3684
  • North Twin (3684m)
  • Twins Tower (3627m)
Located in Winston Churchill Range in NE part of Columbia Icefield. Together with somewhat lower South Twin (3566m) Nort Twin forms the Twins Massif. Third highest peak in Canadian Rockies.
East side
East slopes. nccs I.
Normal route. Easy ascent that can be skied all the way to the summit.
North Face
Very different side from gentle East side with nearly vertical wall rising 1500m from the glacier below to culminate in Twins Tower. All routes on the face are very difficult and serious with objective danger from rock and serac fall.
Lowe-Jones. nccs VI 5.10,A3/ED3/4; 4,500'. 1973-01-01First ascentGeorge Lowe & Chris Jones, 1973.
Mount Kitchener3505

Located in the Upper Sunwapta River Valley north of Dome Glacier.

The landmark routes are Grand Central Couloir and slightly easier the Ramp. Easiest route is South-West Slopes (I).

Firsta ascent by Alfred J. Ostheimer & Hans Fuhrer in 1927.

South side
SW slopes. nccs I; 1500m.
North face
The impressive 1000m high north face of the mountain is bad rock, with no convenient bivi ledges, and typically takes more than 24 hours with a light pack from a bivi at the base.
Grand Central Couloir. Ice, nccs V 5.9 AI4/ED; V/AI4 M6 VS, 5.9; 1000m, 8-16h. 1974-08-01First ascentMike Weis & Jeff Lowe, 1974-08.
Classic. Most obvious route through 4000 feet face. Big , objectively hazardous climb. Almost pure ice with two difficult mixed pitches in upper gully.
  • Ice World pp205-209
Ramp route. Ice, nccs V 5.8,A1/TD+; 1000m.
Somewhat easier alternative to Grand Central Couloir.
Mount Athabasca52.18-117.1953491
Canada, Canadian Rockies, Columbia Icefield. Very popular peak located in Columbia Icefield.
North Face
North glacier. nccs II 45°/PD; 1500m.
Regular North Face. Snow/ice, nccs III 5.4/D-; 52°; 7-8 pitches.
Classic. Rocky mountains classic. The face consists of 40-50 degree ice leading to a short crux through the rock band.
Hourglass. Snow/ice, nccs III 5.5/D-; 7-8 pitches.
At the very right-hand end of the top rockband is a serac barrier. The climb sneaks up between the rock and the serac on a strip of ice. The crux is steeper and more technical than the Regular N Face route.
Silberhorn. Snow/ice, nccs II/III 35°/AD.
Somewhat steeper than the Normal Route and hence a little more challenging.
North Ridge. nccs II-III 5.5/AD.
Athabasca/Andromeda (AA col). nccs II 40°.
Mount Andromeda52.176667-117.2316673450
Canada, Canadian Rockies, Columbia Icefield. Popular peak located in Columbia icefields and separated from Mount Athabasca by a col. There are relatively easy routes like Skyladder, as well as the test piece Andromeda Strain. Rock is typically of poor quality
North side
Skyladder. Snow/ice, nccs II AI2/AD+; II/AI2/45°; 1400m.
Normal route. The most popular route.
Andromeda Strain. nccs V 5.9,A2 WI4/ED1; 1400m total.
Through the prominent gully system bisecting the NE face. One of the Rockies "grandes courses" and possibly the most repeated hard route. Technical part is shorter but considered more difficult than Grand Central Couloir of Grand Kitchener.
Snowdome3456

Located on the continental divide on the Columbia Icefield between Dome Glacier and Athabasca Glacier.

First ascent by Norman Collie, H.E.M. Stutfield & H. Woolley in 1898.

East face
Slipstream. Ice, nccs V WI4+; VI/WI4+/80°; 925m.
A beautiful and dangerous route.
Central Icefields
Mount Forbes3612
Highest peak in Banff
Howse Peak3290
The highest mountain in the Waputik Range. Located above Chephren Lake.
East side
Few grade VI winter ice routes exist on the East Face.
NE Buttress. . 1967-01-01First ascentDon Vockeroth, Lloyd MacKay & Ken Baker, 1967.
M-16. ED++/nccs VI WI7+ A2; 1000,. 1999-01-01First ascentSteve House, Scott Backes, Barry Blanchard, 1999.
North face
North face. . 1988-01-01First ascentW. Robinson & Barry Blanchard, 1988.
Cirrus Mountain3270
Polar Circus. Ice, TD; V WI5; 500m.
Weeping Wall. Ice,
Mount Chephren3266
The Wild Thing. nccs VI 5.9+,A3 WI5; 3-4 days.
Mount Patterson3197
East face
Riptide. Ice, IV M7; 225m.

Southern Continental Ranges

Banff-Lake Louise Core Area
Lake Louise
Wiwaxy Peak2703
Located in Lake O'Hara in Yoho National Park. Located a little to the north of Mount Temple in Bow range
South side
Grassi Ridge (SW Ridge). Rock, 300m/10 pitches.
Mount Temple3543
Highest peak in the Bow Range, located to the south of Lake Louise and to the north of valley of Ten Peaks. Sometimes called "Eiger of the Rockies".
SW side
SW Ridge. nccs I 4th class/I PD; 5,545' from Moraine lake. 4-6h.
Normal route. One of the most popular routes in the Rockies.
East Ridge
East Ridge. nccs IV 5.7 40°; Classic ridge climb, one of the 50 Classic climbs of North America. Both longer and more serious than East ridge of Edith Cavell.
North face
Elzinga-Miller. nccs IV 5.7,A1.
Dangerous but the most popular route on the face.
Greenwood-Locke. nccs V 5.8,A2/TD+; 5.8,A2/5.9 M6; 1200m.
Safest but the most technical route on the face.
Mount Victoria3464
SE side of South summit
SE Ridge. nccs II; 542m, 3-5h/6-9h round trip.
SW face
SW face. .
Mount Lefroy3424
Located SE of Mount Victoria, on the border of Yoho National Park.
West Face
West Face. Snow/ice, nccs II 35°; 2-5h from the hut.
Normal route. Very popular climb on low-angle snow/ice.
Mount Aberdeen3151
East side
East slope. .
Valley of Ten Peaks
Mount Fay3234
Located in the Valley of the Ten Peaks in the northernmost part of Kootenay National Park.
North face
There are several snow/ice routes on this 400m ice face with general angle of 40-50°: "Roth/Kallen", "Chouinard Route" and "Berle/Kallen" are all grade II, "Centre Ice Bulge Direct" is the most difficult of the routes on the face at III. Typically routes take 1-3h from the bergshrund to the summit.
Centre Ice Bulge Direct. Snow/ice, 400m.
East face
Most difficult climbing to be found in the valley of Tean Peaks (V/VI 5.8 WI5).
Stanley Peak3155
North Face
Kahl Route. Ice, .
Nemesis. Ice, 3-4 pitches. 1974-03-01First ascentBugs McKeith & co., 1974-03.
  • 50 Favorites #4
Assiniboine Area
Mount Assiniboine3618
"Matterhorn of the Canadian Rockies". Located on the southern part of Canadian Rockies. The mixed north ridge is a classic climb (IV 5.5).
North side
North Ridge. Mixed, 6-7h.
East side
East face is very difficult at V 5.9,A2 while East Buttress is somewhat easier (IV 5.7).
  • Access to the face is from R.C. Hind hut via col between Mount Assiniboine and Mount Magog.