North America

The highest mountains of North America are located in the far north in Alaska and neighboring Yukon territory of Canada. Alaska range in general and Denali in particular, has one of the worst weather in the world as it locates at the collision front between warm damp Pacific air and the cold interior. The area is comprised of several mountain ranges. Furthest to the north lie Brooks Range. Aleutian range on the peninsula intruding far to the Bering Sea is notorious of it's horrendous weather, even on the Alaskan standards. Alaska range is located in the central part of Alaska. It is dominated by Denali (or Mount McKinley) with it's height of 6194m. Mount Hunter, Mount Foraker and Mount Huntington, all of which are famous among the climbers, are also located in the Alaska range. Chugach, Wrangel and St.Elias ranges are located to the south and east of Alaska Range. The most popular climbs are found in Alaska range.

The Rocky Mountains, or shorter "Rockies" are a vast mountain system in Western North America, extending from Canada to New Mexico. There are over twenty principle ranges that comprise the Rockies. Best known of them among climbers are Canadian Rockies, Colorado Rockies and Tetons in Wyoming. The highest peaks of the range are located in Colorado, with Mount Elbert (4401m) being the highest. The highest peak in Canadian Rockies is Mount Robson (3954m). There are several national parks of both sides of the border.

The Cascade Range in the Pacific Northwestern United States is best known for its massive snow-capped volcanoes. Often they rise in isolation, separated by great intervening plateaus. Mostly there's at least one relatively easy route to the summit. However, the highest, Mount Rainier (4392m), provides challenges even on its easiest routes.

The Sierra Nevada range in eastern California has several peaks over 4000m culminating at Mount Whitney 4417m. Furthermore, High Sierra has classic snow/ice routes on North palisade, Polemonium Peak and Mount Mendell. However, the best known part of the Sierra Nevada is the Yosemite Valley, that is home to legendary big-wall on the sheer granite walls of El Capitan and Half Dome. Besides the big walls, the valley also has range of classic alpine rock climbs.

Other well known alpine destinations of the continent include the famous granite spires of Bugaboos in British Columbia, Waddington range in Canadian Coast Range, Mount Washington and Mount Katahdin in New England, Baffin island in NE of Canada and Shiprock in New Mexico.

Mexico's volcanoes offer an exciting trip for climbers seeking the challenges of climbing at moderate altitude amidst an interesting cultural backdrop. Highest mountain is Pico De Orizaba (also known as Citlateptl) at 5611m.

Besides the aforementioned mountain areas, there are plenty of other areas having high quality ice and rock climbing.

  • Bonington, Chris & Salkeld, Audrey: World Mountaineering - The World's Greatest Mountains by the Worlds Greatest Mountaineers. Miller's Publications, 2006. Isbn: 1845331427.
  • Kroese, Mark: Fifty Favorite Climbs - The Ultimate North American Tick List, 1st edition. Mountaineers Books, 2001. Isbn: 9780898867282.
  • Radehose, Eckehard: Traumberge Amerikas. Von Alaska bis Feuerland.. Bergverlag Rother, 2002. Isbn: 9783763330065.
  • Roper, Steve & Steck, Allen: Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Sierra Club Books, 1996. Isbn: 9780871568847.
  • Waterman, Jonathan: High Alaska - A Historical Guide to Denali Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter. American Alpine Club, 1989. Isbn: 9780930410414.

The highest mountains of North America are located in the far north in Alaska and neighboring Yukon territory of Canada. The area is comprised of several mountain ranges:

  • Furthest to the north lie vast Brooks Range where highest peaks rise to ~9,000'.
  • 1500-mile long Aleutian range on the peninsula intruding far to the Bering Sea is notorious of it's horrendous weather, even on the Alaskan standards. Some of the peaks on Aleutian are volcanic and are part of the POcean's Ring of Fire. Highest volcano is Redoubt (3108m
  • Alaskan Range form a large arch in the central Alaska, to the north of Aleutian, Chugach, Wrangel and St. Elias ranges. Central part of the range is home to highest peaks in Alaska. It is dominated by Denali (or Mount McKinley) with it's height of 6194m. Mount Hunter, Mount Foraker and Mount Huntington, all of which are famous among the climbers, are also located in the Alaska range. The most popular climbs are found in Alaska range.
  • Chugach, Wrangel, St.Elias, Fairweather and Coast Ranges form a long chain of mountains running along the coast of Alaska Gulf and reaching far into Canadian territory.

Alaska range in general and Denali in particular, has one of the worst weather in the world as it locates at the collision front between warm damp Pacific air and the cold interior. Because of harsh weather and remoteness, climbing on Alaskan mountains is more serious than similar routes would be in more accessible ranges (this phenomenom is sometimes referred to as Alaskan factor). Alaskan mountains are excessively glaciated, so most climbing is on snow or ice. The rock quality is generally poor. Access to climbs can be very long. However, airplanes are often used which make otherwise extremely tedious approaches a breeze. Normal climbing season starts in late April. Weather is still extremely cold as temperatures can drop to -40°C in may. June and July have warmer temperatures but then the there's a risk of storms lasting for days.

Besides alpine ascents, Alaska has also plenty of good water ice climbing, especially close Valdez in Keystone Canyon. The first major climb of the areas was the classic Keystone Green Steps (5 pitches (200m) III-IV/WI5).

  • United States Geologigal Survey: 63148-F8-SI-250 (Denali National Park and Preserve). United States Geologigal Survey.
  • Secor, R. J.: Denali Climbing Guide, 1st edition. Stackpole Books, 1998. Isbn: 9780811727174.
  • Wood, Michael & Coombs, Colby: Alaska: A Climbing Guide - A Climbing Guide. Mountaineers Books, 2002. Isbn: 0-89886-724-X.

Alaskan Range form a large arch in the central Alaska, to the north of Aleutian, Chugach, Wrangel and St. Elias ranges. Central part of the range is home to highest peaks in Alaska. It is dominated by Denali (or Mount McKinley) with it's height of 6194m. The ranges consists of several subgroups:

  • Revelation Mountains
  • Kichatna Mountains. Very rugged and steep range, although the peaks are not very high (below 9,000'). The area has lots of steep rock routes on granite spires.
  • Central Alaska Range. Home to all the highest peaks and most popular climbs.
  • Eastern Alaska Range. Best known peak inn the area is Mount Deborah.
  • Delta Mountains

West Buttress is the easiest and most popular route on Denali, while West Rib and Cassin Ridge are more difficult classics. Sultana Ridge and Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker and West Ridge and Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter are other classics on big peaks. Other destinations well known among the climbers are Mount Huntington and Ruth Gogge.

Climbs are typically access from Anchorage and Talkeetna on the south side on the range. Approaches are often done using planes, with

Located in Alaska (63° northern latitude) many call Denali the coldest mountain on earth. With its stupendous 5488 meter rise from the surrounding tundra, it has the greatest vertical relief of all the mountains. Highest peak in the North America and therefore one of the seven summits. Native name Denali means 'the High One'.

  • South peak (6194m)
  • North peak (5934m)
1794
Denali, ,
Event
The mountain was found in 1794 by George Vancouver.
1897
Denali, ,
Event
In 1897 William Dickey named it Mt. McKinley after the presidential candidate.
1906
Denali, ,
Event
Frederick Cook fraudently claimed to have climbed the mountain in 1906
1908
Denali, ,
First ascent
Harry Karstens, Hudson Stuck and Robert Tatum
1967
Denali, ,
First winter ascent
via West Buttress

World Mountaineering pp90-97

West side
Most popular side of Denali. Same base camp can be used for climbs on the South face.
  • Kahiltna glacier. Often accessed with a plane to "Kahiltna International" landing strip.
West Buttress. Glacier, nccs IV 50°/AK2+/NZ2/Rus 5A; 50°; 4000m from base camp.
West Rib. Ice, AK4 (Upper West Rib AK3); V/AI2-3/60°; 4000m from base camp, typically 4-7 days en route. Peter Sinclair, Jake Breitenbach, Barry Corbet & Bill Buckingham, 1959-07-19. Ode Siivonen & Jukka Räsänen, 1999.
Classic. Popular more technical ice route on Denali, providing huge shortcut to West Buttress. Lower West rib starts at Chicken couloir in the northeast fork of Kahiltna glacier at 11,200'. Crosses the West Buttress route at basin camp (14,200'). Another popular way of ascent is to climb only the upper west rib from the basin camp.
West Rim. AK4; AI3/70°; 4000m from base camp.
Ridge climb between West Rib and West Buttress
NW Buttress of North summit. Ice/mixed, AK4; 65°, low 5th class; 13,000', 27km.
Glacier travel, ice/mixed to 65° and low 5th class rock.
North side
Muldrow Glacier Traverse (Muldrow and harper glaciers). Glacier, AK2+; 40°; 14,600'.
Glacier travel & snow/ice climbing to 40°
Wickersham Wall
The Wickersham Wall, located on the north side of McKinley, is one of the largest mountain faces in the world. It rises 14,000' from the Peters Glacier to the 19,740-foot North Peak.
Canadian Route. AK3; 45°; 15,000'.
Harvard Route. AK4+; 50°, 5.5,A1; 15,000'.
Ruth & East
East Buttress. AK4; 15km.
Ridge of No Return (South Buttress). AK6; 5.9,A3.
South face
Contains steep and highly technical routes
Cassin Ridge. Ice/mixed, AK5/ED2; AI4, 5.8; 4000m from base camp, typically 3-5 days on route. Riccardo Cassin in, .
Classic. Classic hard route.
Czech Direct. AK6; WI6 M5/100°, 5.9/V+; 4000m from base camp.
SW face. AK6; 5.9,A3; 8,000'/4000m from base camp.
North side
Sultana Ridge (NE Ridge). AK3; 40°; 10,500 feet of ascent along 9 mile ridge. Typically 10-18 days en route.
Safest and most accessible route on Mount Foraker. Ice up to 40°, cornices. 10,500 feet of ascent along 9 mile ridge. Typically 10-18 days en route from Base camp at southeast fork of Kahiltna glacier.
Archangel Ridge. AK4; 11,000'.
West side
West Ridge. AK3+.
South side
Infinite Spur. nccs VII 5.9 AI4/AK6; VII/AI4/85°, 5.9; 9,000'/60-80 roped pitches to the south summit. Michael Kennedy & George Lowe, .
Classic. Mega classic, big and committing. Typically 7-14 days en route from Base camp at southeast fork of Kahiltna glacier.

50 Favorites #24; AAJ 1978; AAJ 1991; AAJ 1997

Talkeetna Ridge. AK5; 5.7; 10,200'.
East side
Czech route. AK5+; 75°, 5.7; 9,000'.
West side
West Ridge. AK4+/nccs IV AI3 5.8; V/AI3/70°, 5.8; 2440m, 7-10 days on route.
North side
Moonflower (North Buttress). AK6; VI AI6 M6, 5.9,A3; 6,100', 7-10 days on route.
The Knowledge. ED4/AK6; 1200m.
Northwest Spur. Ice, VI AI5 M4; 7,000'. 3-4 days from "Kahiltna International" landing strip.

Ice World pp200-203

South side
SE Spur. AK6; 5,800'.
West face
  • From Tokositna basin at 8,300'
Harvard route. nccs VI 5.9,A2/AK5; 5.9,A2; 3730m. David Roberts & co., 1965.
West Face couloir. AK3+; AI4/60° with short steps up to 80°.
Normal route. Likely the easiest ascent.
French Ridge (NW Ridge). Lionel Terray, 1964.

Located to the west of Denali and other big peaks.

North side
  • High camp at the Know (10,005'). Access by plane to Yentna glacier (8,000').
North Ridge. AK2+; 3,500', 1 day from high camp. Total 7-10 days.
  • Fly to small basin only 10 min away. Alternative approach from Ruth Gorge problematic through disrupted ice fall.
Ham and Eggs couloir. nccs V 5.9 AI4/AK3+; 900m. Jon Krakauer, Thomas Dosies & Nate Zinser, 1975-07-18.
West Ridge. AK2+; 55°.
West face
1 mile high granite face
  • Fly to Don Sheldon Mountain House on Ruth glacier, descend to Ruth Gorge.
West face. AKAK 1.
Monogamy. AK3; 5.8, AI3/50-80°.
Cobra Pillar. nccs V 5.11a,A2; 2,750', 2 days.

50 Favorites #4; AAJ 1990

Located in eastern part of Alaska Range

NW Ridge
NW Ridge. AK2+; 5,600', 2-3 days. Fred Beckey, Henry Meyborn & Heinrich Harrer, 1954.

St.Elias range lies partially on Canadian side of the border. It hosts a the greatest concentration of high peak in the North-America, topped by Mount Logan (5959m), the second highest summit of the continent. On the coastal area to the south and east of St. Elias range lie Fairweather and Coast ranges.

Access is from Whitehorse in Yukon territory or from Yakutat. From there to Klue National park. June and July are most popular months for climbing. Earlier in the season temperatures are even colder.

Located in St.Elias in Yukon territory of Canada. Access from Klue National park by flight (100km). All routes are Himalayan in scale and 15-20km long serious outing which typically take 7-21 days to complete. Logan is most commonly climbed via "King's Trench" on the west side (over 20km long, technically easy, skis can be used almost all the way). First ascent by A.H. MacCarthy, H.F. Lambart, A. Carpè, W.W. Foster, N. Read & A. Taylor, in 1925.

World Mountaineering pp100-103

South side
Mighty face rising 4000m above the glacier. All routes are difficult.
Hummingbird Ridge (S Ridge). AK6/nccs VII AI4; VII/AI4; 4000m.
East side
East Ridge. AK3+/NZ3; 60°; 3500m/13,050'.

Fourth highest peak in the North America

South side
Harvard route (SW Ridge). AK4+; AI3; 15,700' from the BC (2,300').
North side
  • Flight from Yakutat
NW face. nccs VI M7 WI5+; Sco VII; 1800m. Jack Tackle & Jack Roberts, 1996.
North Buttress. 1800m.

British Columbia's Coast range originate on the north side of the Fraser River Valley (near Vancouver B.C.) and runs almost a thousand miles along the coast of western Canada to end in the Yukon Territories. The most famous part of the range is Waddington Range, consisting of Mount Waddington and surrounding peaks. Another famous peak in Coast Range is Devil's Thumb located far north in Yukon.

Best conditions for alpine climbing in Waddington area are found in July and August but the weather is unpredictable and glacier travel troublesome. May and September usually have better weather.

  • Serl, Don: The Waddington Guide - Alpine Climbs in one of the World's Great Ranges. Elaho, 2003. Isbn: 09682472-5-3.

Majestic mountain with no easy route to the top. Access is most commonly by helicopter or plane from Tatla lake or Campbell River on Vancouver island to Tetla glacier from where The Plummer hut can be reached. Mostly climbed from NE side although south side would have technically easier routes.

South side
South Buttress. nccs VI 5.11,A3+; 4,500'. Greg Child, Graig Collum & Steve Musceoh, 1994-08.
East side
  • Fly from Petersbourg
East Ridge (Beckey). nccs IV 5.8 AI4; 2,300', 2-3 days. Fred Beckey & co., 1946.
South side
  • Fly from Petersbourg
South Pillar. nccs V 5.10,A2. Bill Pilling & Mark Bebie, 1991-05-24.

Columbia Mountains are located close to Rocky mountains in in western part of US and Canada being located in the US states of Idaho and Washington and southeastern part of Canadian British Columbia. The area consists of several smaller groups,

  • Selkirk Mountains
  • Monashee Mountains
  • Purcell Mountains
  • Cariboo Mountains
  • Chris; Piche, Marc Atkinson: The Bugaboos Guide - Rock and Alpine Climbs in the Bugaboo Spires and Vowells. Elaho Publishing Corporation, 2003. Isbn: 9780973303513.
  • Edwards, J. Gordon: Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park (Regional Rock Climbing Series), 2nd edition. Falcon, 1991. Isbn: 9780878421770.
  • Green, Randall & Bensen, Joe: Bugaboo Rock - A Climbing Guide, 2nd edition. Mountaineers Books, 2003. Isbn: 9780898867954.

Separated from Rockies by 600-mile-long Rocky Mountain Trench.

  • Edwards, J. Gordon: Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park (Regional Rock Climbing Series), 2nd edition. Falcon, 1991. Isbn: 9780878421770.
North side
NW Ridge. nccs III 5.2-5.3/D-.

Bugaboos, located in Bugaboos Provincial Park in the core of Purcell Mountains, is considered to be the premiere destination for alpine rock climbing in Canada and one of the top places in whole North America.

Main convenient center for the area is Brisco. Conrad Kain hut provides convenient accommodation in the range. Climbing season lasts from early June to mid September with July and August considered the best months.

The reason for Bugaboos' (or the Bugs') fame are the granite towers. Probably the best known climbs, NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire and Choinard-Beckey on Howser Tower are listed among "50 Classic Climbs of North America". Most classic climbs of the Bugs are:

  • Bugaboo Spire, NE Ridge
  • Bugaboo Spire, Kain route
  • South Howser Tower, West face, "Chouinard-Beckey"
  • Pigeon Spire, West Ridge
  • Chris; Piche, Marc Atkinson: The Bugaboos Guide - Rock and Alpine Climbs in the Bugaboo Spires and Vowells. Elaho Publishing Corporation, 2003. Isbn: 9780973303513.
  • Green, Randall & Bensen, Joe: Bugaboo Rock - A Climbing Guide, 2nd edition. Mountaineers Books, 2003. Isbn: 9780898867954.
South tower
Beckey-Chouinard. nccs V 5.10a,A0/TD+; 3,500'.
South side
Kain route (South Ridge). nccs III 5.6+ 40°/AD.
North side
North-East Ridge. nccs IV 5.7/D-; 450m.

The Rocky Mountains, or shorter "Rockies" are a vast mountain system in Western North America, extending from Canada to New Mexico. There are over twenty principle ranges that comprise the Rockies. Best known of them among climbers are Canadian Rockies, Colorado Rockies and Tetons in Wyoming. The highest peaks of the range are located in Colorado, with Mount Elbert (4401m) being the highest. The highest peak in Canadian Rockies is Mount Robson (3954m). There are several national parks of both sides of the border.

Rugged, remote, and heavily glaciated Rockies are Canada's most well known mountains. They are also the highest mountains in Canada south of Yukon. The Canadian Rockies run along the British Columbia-Alberta border, mainly on Alberta side, from the Northwest Territories through into the US. They are located to the east (inland) of Canadian Coast Range and Columbian mountains. <<more>>.

The highest mountains in the Rockies are found in Colorado, there are 54 summits over 14 000 feet (4267m) and more than a thousand over 10 000 feet (3048m). Most mountains have easy routes up rounded flanks, and more difficult climbs up steep rock faces. Some small glaciers exist, and snow covers the mountains from December through May, with some snow patches remaining through most of the year. The mountains are more accessible during the summer, but severe afternoon thunderstorms are common.

Colorado has world class water ice climbs in the Boulder area as well as Vail, Aspen, Summit County, and Ouray.

  • Borneman, Walter R. & Lampert, Lyndon J.: A Climbing Guide to Colorado's Fourteeners - Twentieth Anniversary Edition. Pruett Publishing Company, 1994. Isbn: 0-87108-850-9.
  • Gillett, Bernard: Rocky Mountain National Park - High Peaks: The Climber's Guide, 1st edition. Earthbound Sports, 2001. Isbn: 9780964369856.
  • Gillett, Bernard: Rocky Mountain National Park - Estes Park Valley: The Climber's Guide, 1st edition. Earthbound Sports, 2001. Isbn: 9780964369849.

Located in the Sawatch Range of the Colorado Rockies, Mount Elbert is the highest mountain of Colorado and Rocky Mountains.

Long's Peak, located in Front Range, is Colorado's northernmost fourteener and the only 14neer in Rocky Mountains National Park. It's close proximity to Denver and its pure majesty make it popular climbing mountain.

South side
Keyhole. Rock, nccs II 3rd class; 5,000', 7,5 miles.
East Face
Kiener's route. Rock, nccs III 5.3 AI2; III AI2 M1+; 2,000'.
Alexander's Chimney/The Notch. Rock, nccs IV AI4 5.5/M4; IV/AI4 M4; 2,000' (5 pitches).
Smear of Fear. Ice, IV/WI6 M6; 3 pitches.
NE face, The Diamond
Casual Route. Rock, nccs IV 5.10a/TD; 275m. D. Furgason & C. Reveley, 1977.
Classic. The Casual Route is just one of several excellent classic lines on Long's famous Diamond, the finest alpine rock face in the Colorado Rockies

Located next to Long's Peak.

Dreamweaver couloir. Ice, nccs III AI2+ M2; 1,500'.
North Ridge. nccs III 5.6.
SW Corner. nccs III 5.9.

Located in Wyoming, approximately 50 miles south of Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park hosts one of the most spectacular mountain ranges in the lower 48. The Grand Teton (4197m) towers above the other peaks of the range. Other popular peaks include Mount Moran (3842m), Middle Teton, Mount Teewinot (3757m), Baxter's Pinnacle, Symmetree Spire and the Snaz.

The climbing season in the Tetons goes from around the end of June to the middle of September. The main center of the area is Jackson.

Tetons offer fine alpine climbing, mostly on rock but there are also several rock and mixed routes. Classics include the Owen-Spalding, Exum Ridge and and North Ridge on Grand Teton. There are also classic ice climbs. Gullies offer the most reliable ice climbing often with hard snow in early summer and white or black ice in late summer and autumn. Most of these gullies range in steepness between 40 and 60 degrees and thus in winter, are usually filled with snow. The most famous of them being Black Ice Couloir and Enclosure Couloir on Grand Teton, Glacier Route and Northwest Couloir of Middle Teton and north couloir of Buck Mountain. Ice fall climbing can be found in Death Canyon (Tetons), Torrey Canyon in the Wind Rivers and Lake Louise Area.

  • Ortenburger, Leigh N. & Jackson, Reynold G.: A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range, Third Edition edition. Mountaineers Books, 1996. Isbn: 9780898864809.
  • Rossiter, Richard: Teton Classics, 2nd - 50 Selected Climbs in Grand Teton National Park, 2nd edition. Falcon, 1994. Isbn: 9780934641715.

There are over 90 routes and variations of routes to the summit. North Face One of America's most awesome mountain walls, expect over 20 pitches of rock and snow climbing. Difficulty: 5.8 to 5.9 with steep snow and ice. First ascent by William Owen and Franklin Spaulding on 11.08.1898.

    West face & the Enclosure
    Routes are remote, long and often verglassed. This side features two of probably the best known ice climbs on Grand Teton, "Black Ice Couloir" and "Enclosure Couloir".
    • Valhalla Canyon or from Lower saddle between Middle Teton and Grand Teton via Valhalla traverse.
    Northwest Ridge. nccs V 5.7; V; 1433m, 2 days from Cascade Canyon.
    The longest route on Grand Teton.
    Black Ice Couloir. Ice, nccs IV AI3+ 5.7/TD-/TD; IV/AI3+, 5.7; 640m/15 pitches, 7-10h.
    Classic. Classic ice climb between the Grand Teton and the Enclosure. Subject to rockfall.
    Enclosure couloir. Ice, nccs IV 5.7 AI3/D-; AI3, 5.7/V; 640m, 12 pitches. 7-9h.
    Classic ice climb, approached via the Valhalla Traverse. Finishing via NW Ridge makes this 12 pitch alpine classic.
    South side
    Most climbed side of Grand Teton. Lower Saddle between Middle Teton and Grand Teton, located 1550m above jackson Hole is usable high camp.
    • From Lupine meadows trailhead. Camping is best in Garnet Canyon meadow.
    Exum Ridge. Rock, nccs III 5.7-5.8/III AD+; 5.7-5.8/IV+/V; 450m/2197m, 6 pitches. 8h for Lower Exum ridge (to summit), 5-6h for Upper Exum Ridge.
    Classic. An outstanding long alpine rock climb. Six steep pitches of 5.7 to 5.8 climbing on excellent rock.
    Upper Exum Ridge. nccs II 5.5; IV; 640m/2650m.
    Owen-Spalding. Rock, nccs II 5.4; III; 640m/2656m. William Owen and Franklin Spaulding on, .
    Normal route. First ascent route. From Garnet Canyon to Lower Saddle between Middle Teton and Grand Teton.
    North face
    • Access via Teton glacier. Some routes are gained via Valhalla traverse from Lower Saddle.
    • North face. Turquoise- East Ridge, Yellow-East Ridge, var King-Fitch, Orange-Route Canal, Red-North Molar Tooth Couloir, Green-Northeast Couloir, AKA Hossack/MacGowan, Blue-Grand North Couloir, AKA Shea’s Chute, Black Dots-Squeeze Box, Pink-Northeast Couloir, var Sinclar-Ortenburger, Purple-North Face, var Direct Finish.
    North Ridge. nccs IV 5.8; V-; 1048m/2230m.
    North Face. nccs IV 5.7+; VI-; 1048m/2230m.
    Route Canal. Mixed, nccs IV IW5 5.9; IV IW5, 5.9; 1048m/2230m. 8-12h.
    Serious mixed route up a nearly vertical chute. Seldiom in condition.
SW side
SW couloir. F; 4th class; 1810m.
NW side
  • Exum hut
NW Couloir. nccs II AI2-3 5.6; 4 pitches.
Classic gully climb from Exum hut. Five pitches of 45-55° ice (max. 70°).
Middle Teton Glacier. .
NW side
NW couloir. nccs I/F; 200m/1750m.

The Cascade Range in the Pacific Northwestern United States running from British Columbia to Northern California. The area is best known for its massive snow-capped volcanoes. Often they rise in isolation, separated by great intervening plateaus. Cascades are heavily glaciated, the highest, Mount Rainier (4392m) being more glaciated than any other peak in the contiguous United States. There are also many non-volcanic mountains in the range, most notably in the North Cascades of Washington, a 150-mile stretch of mountains south of the Canadian border. These peaks are smaller, seldom over 10,000 feet, but among them are hundreds of sharp rock peaks whose base to summit height often exceeds that of the higher peaks of the Sierra Nevada or Colorado Rockies.

Besides Rainier, Mount Shuksan (2782m), Mount Baker (3285m), Mount Stuart (2870m), Mount Adams (3742m) and Forbidden Peak (2687m) are other peaks popular among the climbers. On the volcanoes the rock on the mountains tends to be friable, so most climbs are glacier climbs. Mostly there's at least one relatively easy route to the summit. North Cascades receive heavy snowfall and have extensive glaciers, offering the high quality ice and snow climbing.

  • Beckey, Fred: Cascade Alpine Guide - Climbing and High Routes: Vol 1- Columbia River to Stevens Pass (3rd Ed.). Mountaineers Books, 2000. Isbn: 0898865778.
  • Fairley, Bruce: Guide to Climbing and Hiking in Southwestern British Columbia. Gordon Soules Book Publishers, 1986. Isbn: 9780919574991.
  • McLane, Kevin: Alpine Select - Climbs in Southwest British Columbia & Northern Washington. Elaho Publishing, 2001. Isbn: 9780968247273.
  • Nelson, Jim & Potterfield, Peter: Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Mountaineers Books, 1993. Isbn: 9780898863686.
  • Nelson, Jim & Potterfield, Peter: Selected Climbs in the Cascades - Alpine Routes, Sport Climbs, & Crag Climbs. Mountaineers Books, 2000. Isbn: 9780898865615.
  • Smoot, Jeffrey L.: Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes, 2nd, 1st edition. Falcon, 1999. Isbn: 9781560448891.
  • Smoot, Jeffrey L.: Climbing Washington's Mountains (Climbing Mountains Series), 1st edition. Falcon, 2002. Isbn: 9780762710867.

North Cascades form a 150-mile stretch of mountains south of the Canadian border. The area consist of few dormant volcanoes and many non-volcanic mountains. The area contains North Cascades National Park and several National Wilderness Areas, the Ross Lake National Recreation Area and the Chelan Lake National Recreation Area. These peaks are smaller than high peaks further south, seldom over 10,000 feet, but among them are hundreds of sharp rock peaks whose base to summit height often exceeds that of the higher peaks of the Sierra Nevada or Colorado Rockies. These mountains receive heavy snowfall and have extensive glaciers, offering the high quality ice and snow climbing.

Rock and weather conditions are both severe in the North Cascades. Precipitation levels are heavy, particularly during the winter months. "Variable conditions" also include glorious weather for lengthy periods, usually in late summer. Usually the combination of weather and snow conditions is at its best between may and august.

The North Cascades defining features are Mount Baker (3285m), the highest point of the North Cascades. Other highlights include Mount Shuksan (2782m), Liberty Bell, Mont Mqaude, Forbidden Peak and Glacier Peak (10,541') lovingly referred to as the "hidden giant" of the North Cascades, is the most remote of the volcanoes in this range, and is Washington's fifth highest peak.

  • Beckey, Fred: Cascade Alpine Guide - Climbing and High Routes : Rainy Pass to Fraser River (Cascade Alpine Guide; Climbing and High Routes). Mountaineers Books, 1995. Isbn: 0898864232.
  • Beckey, Fred: Cascade Alpine Guide - Climbing and High Routes, Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass (Cascade Alpine Gde). Mountaineers Books, 2003. Isbn: 0898868386.
  • Martin, James: North Cascades Crest - Notes and Images from America's Alps. Sasquatch Books, 1999. Isbn: 1570611408.
North Ridge. nccs III+ AI3/AD.
Fremont glacier. nccs II 4th class/NZ2; 6,800'.
Frostbite Ridge. nccs II AI1 3rd class.
Sitkum Glacier. nccs I; Sco I.

Structurally beautiful mountain in the northern Cascades. Shuksan is popular climbing peak, as it offers wide variety of challenges. The climber has a choice of rock walls, moderate firnfields, steep ice, and easy scrambling.

Price Glacier. nccs III class 4-3 AI3; 6,700'.
South side
  • From the road end at 2500' (762m) to the camp on the rand of the glacier (3-4h)
Sulphide Glacier (Southern Flank). nccs III class 4 30°; 6,400'.
From there through the central gully on the southern flank to the summit. When the gully is iced up, it has ice and snow up to 60°.
North Face
North Face. nccs IV 50°; 2,000'.
North Face
The North Face and the North Face Couloir are divided by a rock buttress. Each has approximately 1300 feet of 40-50 degree snow and ice climbing. The left handed couloir is slightly steeper and more confining to climb than the North Face.
  • From the trailhead at 3200' through Boston Basin (5700') and Sahale Boston -col to Boston Glacier.
North Face. nccs III 40-50°; 1,300'.
From there along North face to the summit.
North Face
North Face ice couloir. nccs III-IV.

Located in a alpine setting in the heart of the North Cascade National Park, this 8,815-foot mountain offers excellent views of the surrounding peaks and the massive Boston Glacier.

West side
West Ridge. nccs II-III 5.6 50°/AD; 5,600'.
Normal route. Heralded as one of the "Fifty Classic Climbs in North America".
Beckey Route. nccs II 5.6/PD; 150m.
Liberty Crack. nccs V 5.8,A3; 5.13b; 12 pitches.
Ruth glacier. nccs II.

The South Cascades' three snow-capped volcanoes, Mount Adams, Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens, rise dramatically above their lesser neighbors as the outstanding featured attractions in this widely popular recreational area of south central Washington. The highest peak of the area, Mt Rainier (4392m) is more glaciated than any other peak in the contiguous United States. The rock on the mountains tends to be friable, so most climbs are glacier climbs. Mostly there's at least one relatively easy route to the summit.

The Central Cascades offer an extensive array of outdoor recreational activities less than two hours by car from Seattle, making the area a popular playground for hiking, backpacking, climbing and skiing for one of the Pacific Northwest's largest metropolitan centers.

Very popular and exessively glaciated mountain. Rainier has routes of all technical levels. Most commonly climbed routes are Disappointment Cleaver and the Emmons Glacier. Also significantly more difficult classic Liberty Ridge is popular. 1300m high north face (willis Wall) is a mighty alpine face, featuring several very serious and seldom climbed routes. Gauthier Mike & Barcott Bruce: Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide. Mountaineers Books, 1999. ISBN: 0898866553.

East side
  • From the trail end at the large parking lot at Paradise along marked path (4,5 miles, 4600') to Camp Muir (3105m, shelter) on the rock island SE to the summit.
Disappointment Cleaver. nccs II 35°/AK1+/PD+; 1290m.
Considered to be the easiest route on Mount Rainier. From there glacier climb to the summit. Emmons glacier and Ingraham Headwall variations are more demanding options from Camp Muir.
Emmons-Winthrop Glacier. nccs II-III 30°/G3; 10,000'.
Glacier route from NE side.
North side
  • Carbon glacier
Liberty Ridge. Ice, nccs III-IV AI2/D; III-IV/AI2/50°; 1300m. Jim Borrow, Arnie Campbell & Ome Daiber, 1935.
Classic. Classic mountain route in the Cascade Range. Esthetic line rising from Carbon glacier in NW to Liberty Cap (4301m) on Rainier's North side.
Willis Wall (North face)
There are several serious routes (IV and upwards) on the north face rising 1300m from Carbon glacier between Curtis Ridge and Liberty Ridges (Liberty Cap 4301m). All routes continue along Liberty Ridge to the summit. The face is very serious due to rock and ice fall danger. Best time for climbing is between January and June. All routes start at White river (total elevation gain 11,400' and require typically 2-4 days)
  • Carbon glacier
Thermogenesis. nccs IV 60°; 1300m.
West Rib. nccs IV+ 60°; 1300m.
Ice Cliff. nccs V 85°; 1300m.
Central Rib. nccs IV+ 60°; 1300m.
East Rib. nccs IV+ 60°; 1300m.
East. nccs IV 55°; 1300m.
South side
Kautz glacier. Glacier, nccs III 50-60°; 10,800'.

The third highest of the Cascade Volcanoes and the second highest mountain in Washington state. Steep Adams Glacier rises over 1350m directly to the summit plateau. This mountain presents multiple challenges.

Adams Glacier. nccs III 45°; 1350m.
From the road end at Killer Creek.
South Spur. nccs II 30°; 6676', 5,7 miles.
Normal route. Easiest and most popular route. From Cold Springs campground (5600').
Girth Pillar. nccs V 5.11c/nccs 5.10 A4.
Stuart Glacier couloir. nccs IV 80°; 1,200'.
North Ridge. nccs III 5.4; 4,500'.

The Oregon Cascades are a wide swath of forested hills and low summits dominated by several volcanic cones towering into the sky. Mounts Hood, Jefferson, the Sisters, Thielsen, Crater Lake, McLoughlin, and a few lower, more-eroded volcanoes are so prominent that the remainder of the Oregon Cascades are almost an afterthought. Non-volcanic peaks are largely logged-over foothills.

Apart from Mount Shasta, California Cascades are not that interesting for climbers. Neighbouring Sierra Nevada has plenty of more worthwhile climbs.

South side
Palmer glacier. nccs II 35°/G2; 1600m.
Sandy Glacier Headwall. nccs III 50°; 1000m.

Volcanic peak located in northern California outside Mt Shasta City. 5th highest peak of California. There are great number of routes from SW, East and N/NE. Most are not too technical (yds class 2 and 3 with few slightly more difficult routes (yds 4-5). The easiest and most popular route is Avalanche Gulch from SW side (yds class 3, 7262').

  • Selters Andrew & Zanger Michael: The Mt. Shasta Book: A Guide to Hiking, Climbing, Skiing, and Exploring the Mountain and Surrounding Area, 2nd edition. Wilderness Press, 2001. Isbn: 0899972780.
Casaval ridge. nccs II+ class 4; 7,400'.

The Sierra Nevada runs from north-northwest to south-southeast for around 600km in the central part of Eastern California. There are several peaks over 4000m, the highest of them being Mount Whitney at 4417m, the highest mountain of the lower 48 states. The height of the mountains in the Sierra Nevada gradually increases from north to south. Thus, the crest near Lake Tahoe is roughly 9000 ft (2700m) high, the crest near Yosemite National Park is roughly 13000 ft (4000m) high, and the entire range attains its peak at Mount Whitney. South of Mount Whitney, the range quickly diminishes in elevation. Eastern front rises sharply from the Great Basin, while its western slope descends gradually to the hills bordering the Central Valley of California.

Sierra has a tremendous variety of climbing for all levels of expertise. It is perhaps most famous for high quality alpine rock routes and peak ascents at all different levels of difficulty. Especially Yosemite valley in the western part of Sierra Nevada is very famous for large scale rock climbs. Also Mount Whitney (at 14,505 feet (4421m) the highest point in the continental United States) and other California 14neers have plenty of rock routes. That being said, California has also plenty of ice climbing. For those in search of alpine ice, Sierra Nevada has host of enjoyable gullies, especially in the Eastern part of the range. Lee Vi9ning canyon is propably the best bet for winter ice fall climbing in California.

  • Anderson, Jay: Climbing California's Mountains (Climbing Mountians Series). Falcon, 2003. Isbn: 076272210X.
  • Croft, Peter: The Good, the Great, and the Awesome - The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs (Eastern Sierra Climbing Guides Ser. 4). Maximus Pr, 2002. Isbn: 9780967611648.
  • Moynier, John & Fiddler, Claude: Climbing California's High Sierra, 2nd - The Classic Climbs on Rock and Ice, 2nd edition. Falcon, 2001. Isbn: 9780762710853.
  • Porcella, Stephen & Burns, Cameron M.: Climbing California's Fourteeners - The Route Guide to the Fifteen Highest Peaks, 1st edition. Mountaineers Books, 1998. Isbn: 9780898865554.
  • Secor, R. J.: The High Sierra - Peaks, Passes, and Trails, 2 Sub edition. Mountaineers Books, 1999. Isbn: 9780898866254.

The best known part of the Sierra Nevada is the Yosemite Valley, that is home to legendary big-wall on the sheer granite walls of El Capitan and The Nose. Besides world famous hard routes, there are also easier classics, such as Snake Dike on Half Dome and East Buttress of El Capitan. Most free-climbing in Yosemite is trad, and largely on cracks. Besides El Capitan and Hald Dome, Cathedral Rock, Leaning Tower, Lost Arrow Spire and Fairview Dome have plenty of classic climbs. In cold winters, Yosemite valley offers several ice climbs, for example 300m Widow's Tears (V WI5).

Spring is considered the best time for climbing. Most find the weather too hot between June - September, but starting from late September the weather becomes suitable for climbing again, but days are shorter than during the spring.

  • McNamara, Chris; Barnes, Greg & Snyder, Todd: Yosemite Ultra Classics (Supertopo Climbing Guides), 1st edition. Wilderness Press, 2002. Isbn: 9780967239125.
  • McNamara, Chris; Roper, Steve & Snyder, Todd: Yosemite Valley Free Climbs - Supertopos. Wilderness Press, 2003. Isbn: 9780967239149.
  • Reid, Don: Rock Climbing Yosemite's Select. Falcon, 1998. Isbn: 1575401150.
  • Reid, Don: Yosemite Climbs - Big Walls: Big Walls, 3rd edition. Falcon, 1998. Isbn: 9780934641548.
Regular route. nccs IV 5.9; 300m.

Half Dome's north face is easily recognisable and has host of difficult big wall routes. Cables route on the east side provides easiest access to summit while Snake Dike on the south face is very popular moderate classic.

Cables Route. Class 3; 5.4 without the cables. George C. Anderson, 1875.
Easiest route to the summit of Half Dome.
Snake Dike. Rock, nccs III 5.7 R/D; 5a; 250m (8 pitches), 3-4h. Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965.
Classic. Very popular rock classic on the south face.

1100m northeast and northeast faces of El Capitan are home to modern big wall climbing. There are dozens of routes, many of them considered classics. Average party takes 4-6 days to make their way up, although some routes have been climbed in few hours by world class climbers. The Southwest Face (left side) of El Capitan is not as steep southeast face, but has many of the classics including Salathe Wall and The Nose. The Southeast Face or "right side" boasts many of the steepest big wall climbs on El Cap. Besides very hard big wall routes, there are several hiking trails and easier climbing routes as well.

    SW face
    Lurking Fear. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.10,A3; 600m, doable for fast parties in a day.
    One of the easiest big wall routes on El Cap.
    Salathé Wall. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.13b/nccs VI 5.11,A3; 800m.
    The Shield. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.9,A3/ED2; 6a; 800m.
    The Nose. Rock/big wall, nccs VI 5.11,C1/nccs VI 5.10,A2/nccs VI 5.13c; 950m.
    Classic. Clasisc rock climb on the buttress separating SW and SE faces. Most parties atke two days or more although fast parties can do the route within a day thus achieving much coveted NIAD (Nose in a Day).
    SE face
    The Southeast Face or "right side" boasts many of the steepest big wall climbs on El Cap. The quality of rock varies from excellent to abysmal.
Astroman. nccs IV 5.11c; 12 pitches.

Mount Whitney, at 14,505 feet (4421m), is the highest point in the continental United States. The area is perhaps most famous for high quality alpine rock routes and peak ascents at all different levels of difficulty. For those in search of alpine ice, Sierra Nevada has host of enjoyable gullies, especially in the Eastern part of the range. Most favourable conditions are usually found during late summer and fall. The V-Notch, the U-Notch and the Mendel Couloir are established classics, as is Ice Nine, that offers challenging mixed climbing. June Lake and Lee Vining Canyon count among the best known areas for waterfall climbing.

The highest point in the continental United States.

    Whitney Trail. nccs I 1st class.
    Trail from Whitney Portal. Hike from Whitney Portal - Lone Pine Lake - Big Horn Sheep Park - Mirror Lake - Trailside Meadow - Trail Camp - Trail Crest - JMT Junction - Summit.
    East Face. nccs III 5.6-5.9/AD; 1,000'/5,860'. Robert Underhill, Glen Dawson, Jules Eichorn & Norman Clyde, 1931.
    Mountaineer's Route. . John Muir, 1873.
    Most direct non-technical route to the summit of Mt. Whitney. 3rd class rock. From Whitney portal campground and follows the Whitney trail - North Fork Trail - "Ebersbacher Ledges" - Lower Boy Scout Lake - Clyde Meadows - base of East Face of Mt. Whitney - Iceberg Lake camp site. 6-8h. From the camp up the couloir right of the East Buttress (3rd class rock, 45° snow during the winter). From the notch on top of couloir there are two options: 1) traverse to the west to easy west slopes or 2)climb wide chute just to the west of the notch ("via ledges and ribs", 3rd class) to the summit plateau.

Palisades is a group of peaks in the central Sierra Nevada, containing four official fourteeners and some important subsidiary summits (most notaböy Polemonium Peak. The group is located 12 miles SW of Big PIne. The peka sin the Palisades group are particularly step and rugged. The area is likely best known among the climbers because of classic snow/ice couloirs on North Palisade and Polemonium Peak.

Highest peak of the Palisades group and forth highest in California.

  • North Palisade (4341m)
  • Polemonium Peak (4292m)
  • Starlight Peak (4292m)
  • Thunderbolt Peak (4268m)
U-Notch Couloir and East Ridge. ; 300m.
This long ice couloir in the dramatic wilderness cirque of the Palisades. After 300m (8 pitches) of ice, rocky ridge leads to summit.
U-Notch & Chimney variation. nccs III-IV 5.2 50°/AD; 300m.
Clyde Couloir. ; 300m.

Located in Palisades region of the Sierra Nevada, next to North Palisade.

V-notch couloir. nccs III AI2; II/AI2 WI3/50-60°; 300m.
The twin couloir to the nearby U-Notch. The V-Notch Couloir is steeper and narrower and less frequented.
North face
330m high north face of Mount Mendell has two of the best known gully climbs in Sierra Nevada: easier right hand couloir is known as Mendel Couloir and more difficult left hand couloir is known as Ice Nine.
Ice Nine (Left hand couloir). nccs IV AI4/WI5; IV AI4/WI5, 5th class; 330m. Doug Robinson & Dale Bard, 1976.
Left couloir of the north face. The route varies in conditions dramatically, sometimes it's a mixed rock and ice climb, and other times it is pure alpine ice.
Mendel Couloir (Right hand couloir). nccs III 5.6 AI2 WI3; 60-65°; 330m, 10 pitches. Felix Knauth & John Whitmer, 1958-06.
Classic right hand route of the twin couloirs that split the north face of Mount Mendel, offering sustained steep climbing in a remote setting. The first attempt in full ice conditions was by Yvon Chouinard and Dennis Hennek in 1965. They discovered that the ice tools of the day were not up to the task and Couinard went on to reinvent the tools by coming up with the reverse curved pick.
  • Bjornstad, Eric: Desert Rock I Rock Climbs in the National Parks (Regional Rock Climbing Series), 1st edition. Falcon, 1996. Isbn: 9780934641920.
  • Bjornstad, Eric: Rock Climbing Desert Rock III - Moab to Colorado National Monument, 1st edition. Falcon, 1999. Isbn: 9781560447542.
  • Bjornstad, Eric: Rock Climbing Desert Rock IV - The Colorado Plateau Backcountry: Utah, 1st edition. Falcon, 2003. Isbn: 9780762711451.
  • Burns, Cameron M.: Selected Climbs in the Desert Southwest - Colorado and Utah. Mountaineers Books, 1999. Isbn: 9780898866575.
  • Green, Stewart M.: Rock Climbing Utah, 1st edition. Falcon, 1998. Isbn: 9781560445944.

Best known climbing objective in Nevada is Red Rocks, located just 20 miles from Las Vegas.

  • Barnes, Greg: Red Rocks Climbing - Supertopos. Supertopo, 2004. Isbn: 9780967239163.
  • Brock, Roxanna & Mcmillen, Jared: Red Rock Canyon - A Climbing Guide (Climbing Guides). Mountaineers Books, 2005. Isbn: 9780898864861.
  • Bjornstad, Eric: Desert Rock I Rock Climbs in the National Parks (Regional Rock Climbing Series), 1st edition. Falcon, 1996. Isbn: 9780934641920.
  • Green, Stewart M.: Rock Climbing Utah, 1st edition. Falcon, 1998. Isbn: 9781560445944.
  • Bjornstad, Eric: Rock Climbing Desert Rock IV - The Colorado Plateau Backcountry: Utah, 1st edition. Falcon, 2003. Isbn: 9780762711451.

Located in NW part of New MexicoSolitary volcanic monolith of Shiprock rises 600m above the plains. After Mount Waddington got climbed in 1936, shiprock was the last big mountaineering problem to be solved in US. First ascent was finally made in 1939 using aid climbing techniques. First ascent was probably the first time bolts were placed in American mountaineering. Most climbing routes are located on over 1km wide west face.

    West face
    Standard route. Rock, nccs IV 5.9,A1/Rus 3B; 550m, 5h.

As far as mountains go, eastern part of North America is nowhere near as mountainous as western part. Biggest mountain chain is Appalachian range, which is much lower (highest peaks under 2000m) and much less steep as, say, Rockies. Best known climbing peaks are Mount washington in New Hamshire and Mount Katahdin in Maine.

Furthermore, baffin island located in north eastern part of Canada, not too far away from Greenland, has several peaks with huge rock walls of big wall proportions. Here Mount Asgaard is likely the best known destination.

  • Lewis, S. Peter & Horowitz, Dave: Selected Climbs in the Northeast - Rock, Alpine, and Ice Routes from the Gunks to Acadia, 1st edition. Mountaineers Books, 2003. Isbn: 9780898868579.
  • Wilcox, Rick: An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England. Huntington Graphics, 1997. Isbn: 1886064105.

Mount Washington valley in New Hampshire is very popular climbing area. Huntington ravine is very popular both in summer and winter. Besides the Mount Washington itself, the valley has host of other attractions. South of Mount Washington are some of the finest rock climbing spots in the northeast. Just outside of North Conway are Whitehorse and Cathedral ledges, both have many popular climbing routes of varying degrees of difficulty. Frankenstein Cliff on the other hand has very popular waterfall ice climbs.

Located in White Mountains (Appalachians, New Hampshire), Mount Washington is the highest peak in the northeastern United States. Deep gorges cut into the eastern and northern faces. Despite the fact, that there's a road leading to the summit, Mount Washington is popular among climbers. Huntington Ravine on the east side is Mt. Washington's climbing hot spot. The giant gorge has a multitude of rocky walls and gullies very suitable for rock and ice climbing. First ascent by Darbey Field in 1642.

Huntington ravine
Deep gorge of Huntington ravine located on the east side is Mt. Washington's climbing hot spot. The giant gorge has a multitude of rocky walls and gullies very suitable for rock and ice climbing. Routes are usually between 200m and 300m in height. Summer climbing is mostly done on the Pinnacle, a sheer, rocky buttress which juts out from the south side of the ravine headwall. It has a large, vertical face on the north which is a challenge for even the most experienced climbers. On its south side is Pinnacle Gully, a great place to embark on your first multi-pitch rock climb. Huntington Ravive is where modern ice climbing began in the United States during the late 1960s. There are several popular alpine routes: South, Odell's, Pinnacle, & Central Gullies, the Diagonal, and Yale, Damnation, & North Gullies. Some are very technical routes involving waterfall ice climbing; others are 45° snow climbs.
  • Huntington ravine on the east side
Odell's Gully. nccs III WI 2-3/D; 85°; 200m. Noel E. Odell, Lincoln O'Brien, J.C. Hurd & Robert L.M. Underhill, 1928.
Broad ice fall. Difficulties vary, left side is around WI3+, center is WI2-3 and right side WI3-4+.
Pinnacle Buttress. nccs III 5.7.
5-6 pitch rock climb on the NE Ridge Pinnacle.
Pinnacle Gully. nccs III WI2+/3/D; III/WI2+/3/80°/NEI 3; 200m/1300m. Samuel A. Scoville & Julian Whittlesey, .
Possible both in summer and winter. During the winter.
South Gully. I/WI1/1+/NEI NEI 1; 1300m (total).
Mostly snow with little bit of ice.
North Gully. Ice/mixed, AD; II/3; 300m.
Ice/mixed. Crux is first 10 meters (70°), after that snow (45°) and little mixed at the top. First ascent by Maynard M.Milelr & William Latedy in 12/1942.
Damnation Gully. AD+; III/3/70°; 300m. Robert Underhill & Lincoln O'Brien, 1929.
Central Gully. AD; II/2/65°; 300m. AJ Holden & NL Goodrich, .
Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle. nccs III 5.7; 5-6 pitches.
North Ridge. nccs I 5.1; 1300m (total).
Tuckerman ravine

Mount Katahdin (1606m) located in the Baxter State Park is the highest peak in Maine and most popular alpine climbing destination of the area. It has both alpine rock routes and winter snow and ice climbs. Besides Katahdin, Acadia National Park has host of climbs on dramatic sea cliffs.

Katahdin is the highest mountain in Maine and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. It is located within Baxter State Park. There are many regular routes that all involve some scrambling from second to fourth class and come from three general directions, north, east and southwest. For climbers there are several rock routes during the summer. During the winter, Katahdin offers the most remote winter climbing in New England, whether it be on the routes leading to summit or challenging ice and snow routes on the basin headwalls. The Pamola ice cliffs offer several difficult ice climbs. Most are Grade II, NEI 4+ or harder.

North side
  • South Basin
Chimney. nccs II 5.5; 650m.
Mildly technical 650m couloir connecting Chimney Pond to knife edge. Typically 12h roundtrip (car to car). During the winter II NEI 2.
Armadillo Buttress. nccs III 5.8.
The most popular route on the mountain straight up the striking central buttress in the South Basin cirque.
Cilley-Barber. IV WI4/NEI NEI 4. Henry Barber & Dick Cilley, 1973.
Signature winter route on Katahdin.
Rubicon. nccs VI 5.11a,A4/ED2.

Mexico's volcanoes offer an exciting trip for climbers seeking the challenges of climbing at moderate altitude amidst an interesting cultural backdrop. Highest mountain is Pico De Orizaba (also known as Citlateptl) at 5611m. Other volcanic giants are Popocatepl (5452m) and Iztaccihuatl (5286m). However, Popocatepl is currently offlimits due to relatively recent volcanic activity. All of these peaks are high altitude climbs in glaciated terrain but with limited technical difficulty. Best climbing seasong for mexican volcanoes is around christmas with dry season spanning from November to March.

Volcanic giants aside, Mexico's climate is also well suited for rock climbing. best known alpine rock climbing is found in El Potrero Chico.

  • Secor, R. J.: Mexico's Volcanoes - A Climbing Guide, 2nd edition. Mountaineers Books, 1991. Isbn: 9780898863291.

Third highest mountain in North-America. Can be climbed from all sides with non-technical ascents (F-PD). The only technical route is "the Serpent's Head" (AD, WI3) on the west side.