Latest update: 2009-12-07 18:13:04
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Romsdal

Isterdalen

Kongen group

Kongen (1614m)
SW face
; 3h. Carl Hall, Mattias Soggemoen, E. Norahagen, 1882.
Bispen
Dronninga
Karitind
Nonshaugen

Finnan group

Finnan (1800m)

Trolltindane

Store Trolltind (1788m/1795m/5888ft)

The highest peak in Trolltind group.
West side
West flank. Rock, ; 4-5h from Isterdalen, 2,5-3h in descent. C. Hall, M. Soggemoen & J. Venge, 1982.
Normal route. From the top of the Trollstigen road in Isterdalen (Stigfoss) 2h hike to Frokostplassen and another 1h to Buraskaret. From there traverse below Brudgommen and up the couloir in the west to the summit (Nor 2).
East Face
Impressive face next to famous Troll Wall.
Fivaruta (Fiva route). Rock, ; 1800m, 5-8h. Adrzej Dworak, Wojcech Jedlicka, Ryszard Kowakwicki & Tadeusz Piotrowski, 1972-02-25 - 1972-02-28. Arne Randers Heen & E. Heen, 1931-08-16.
First route to be climbed from Romsdal side. Seldom more difficult than Nor 3, protection sometimes poor. Approach from Fiva farm 0,5h. At first slabs towards left until below SE Ridge of Nordre Trolltind (Nor 2, 2h if soloed). Traverse across stream to gain ridge (avalanche danger). Above snow field along rock ridge between two couloirs to the right of østpilaren of Brugdommen, then along the couloir to the Ugleskaret. From Ugleskaret along the ridge to the summit (Nor 3).
Fivafossen. Ice, ; 1800m.
Winter route from Romsdalen. Climbs the waterfall leading to the snow field in the middle of Fiva route (6 pitches up to WI5), then continues along Fivaroute to the Ugleskaret (Nor 4 in the summer) and further along the ridge to the summit (Nor 3 in the summer).
Trollryggen (1742m)
SW side
; 3h.
East Pillar
Trollveggen (Troll Wall, Trolväggen)
Over 1000m high north facing wall between Trollryggen and Store Trolltind. There are several routes, all of them very difficult and most involve lots of difficult aid climbing. All are Norwegian grade VI (NCCS VI) or more.
  • "Norwegian Route" Nor VI+, 7-,A0 VI 5.10 A3 1200m L.Pettersen, O.Eliassen, L. Taigland & O.Enersen
  • "Arch Wall" Nor VI+, 7-,A4 VI 5.11- A4 1100m D. and Hugh Drummond
  • "Baltika" Nor 6,A3. (VI 5.11- A3+ 1300m 1997-08-01 1997-08-08 Alexander Odintsov & Igor Potankin
  • "French diretissima" Nor VI+, 6+,A4 (VI 5.10 A4) 1100m V. Boussard, I. Brunet, Patrick Cordier, C. Paluba & F. Frehel
  • "Russian Route" ED (Rus 6B), Nor 6+,A4 (VI 5.10, A4) 1150m 1997-07-14 1997-07-25 Alexander Ruchkin & Yury Koshelenko
  • "Trolldom" Nor 7,A3 (VI 5.11 A3 1050m Vadla-Magnussen
  • "El Cami dels Somnis" Nor 7-,A3 (VI 5.9 A3 1100m Castellvi-Grau-Porta
  • "Swedish Route" Nor IV+, 7- (6,A2) (VI 5.11, Brit 6a) 1000m Johansson-Nilsson
  • "Raspberry Dream" (Japanese route) Nor 8- (VI 5.12 950m Aastorp-Vadla
  • "Rimmon Route" Nor VI+, 6+ (VI 5.10 900m Amatt-Howard-Tweedale
  • "Trollkjerring" Nor 7 (VI 5.11 900m Doseth and partner
  • "Death to Everyone" A4, Nor 6-. (VI 5.11 A4 600m Vadla and partners
  • "Suger gjennom Harryland" Nor 6,A3
Søndre Trolltind (Semletind)

Located between Breitind and Trollryggen.
East face
Easist of the three prominent pillars of Trolltindane towards Romsdal.
East Pillar "Original". Rock, ; 2000m.
Climbs at first between East Pillars of Søndre Trolltring and Trollryggen, then makes a traverse to gain the actual pillar.
East Pillar. Rock, ; 2000m.
Hoibakk's Chimney. Rock, .
North face
North face. Rock, ; 1650m.
Breitind (1759m)
W side
West ridge. ; 3h.
East face
East Pillar. Rock, ; 2000m, 10-12h.
Eastern couloir. ; 1500m.
Nordøstveggen. Ice, ; 1700m.
At first 5 pitches of 75°, then joins East Pillar.
Nordre Trolltind
Norafjell
Stighorn
Rangågjelet

Romsdalshorn

Nesaksla
Mjelva
Blånebba
Holstind
Hornaksla
Olaskartind (1428m)
Mongenjura (1276m)
Kalskratind (1797m)
Romsdalshorn (1550m)

Popular climbing destination located opposite of Troll Wall. There's large number of routes. Routes on East, North and West faces are all accessed from Vengedal. Easiest route is the normal route on the west side (sections of Nor 2+/3). Nordveggen is the most popular route on the mountain (Nor 4+). First ascent is believed to have been made by H.Bjermelund & Erik Haal in 1828. First official ascent was made by Carl Hall, Erik Norahagen & Mathias Soggemoen in 1881.

  • Romsdalshorn.com. Pictures and some information about the classic climbing peak. In English.
East Face
South Ridge via Halls renne. Rock, ; 800m altitude gain, last 300m climbing. 3-4h from Hornvatnet.
Normal route. At first to the right of prominent Halls renne, later through the renne to the col between Romsdalshorn and Lille Romsdalshorn (1525m, Nor 2+ - 3), then along south ridge to the summit (Nor 2).
Halls renne direkte. Ice, .
Winter ice climb from Vengedal. Through the Halls renne to the col between Romsdalshorn and Lille Romsdalshorn (WI3 (60-70°). From there along South Ridge to the summit (M3, Nor 2 in the summer).
East ridge (Østryggen). Rock, ; 180m.
North face
North face faces the main ridge of Romsdalshorn group (Litlefjellet).
Nordveggen (North face). Rock, ; 300m (5 pitches), 2h. O.H. Furuseth, P. Sabro, R. ødegard & H. Nygard, 1920.
The most popular route on the Romsdalshorn. Equipped rappel anchors.
West face (Vestveggen)
West face faces Romsdal.
  • Vestveggen "Altanen" Nor IV-, 4+ 300m
  • West face "direct" Vestveggen "direkt" Nor V+, 6- 1500m
  • Vestveggen "Korset" Nor V+, 6- 300m
  • Vestveggen "Nasen" Nor V, 5- 300m
  • Vestveggen "Original" Nor IV+, 5+ 300m
  • Sydvestryggen Nor III, 3+ 120m

Isfjord ranges

Klauva
Juratind

Vengetindane

Kvandalstind
Lille Vengetind
Søre Vengetind
Store Vengetind (1852m)

The easiest route is Nordryggen (North Ridge Nor 2, most often used descent). Other classics are Vesteggen (Nor VI-, 4+/5, 600m) and Drømmediedret (Nor 5-, 300m).
1881
Store Vengetind, ,
First ascent		 Carl Hall, Erik Norahagen & Mathias Soggemoen in 1881 via Nordryggen
North ridge (Nordtyggen)
North ridge from Vengedalsvatnet. ; 6-8h. Carl Hall, Erik Norahagen & Mathias Soggemoen in 1881, 1881.
Normal route. From Vengedal lake to obvious gap in N Ridge. Mostly easy with easy climbing on the last 100m. Descent via North Ridge.
West face
West Ridge (Vesteggen). ; 600m.
Drömmediedret. ; 300m (7 pitches).
Classic route.
South face
  • Østryggen via Sydveggen Nor IV-, 4 180m
  • South face Sydveggen Nor IV+, 5 180m
  • Sydveggen direkte Nor V+, 5+
  • Sydvest-renna Nor IV+, 4+
East face
  • Gallery route From the col between Store and Lille Vengetind traverse on the East Face to NE Spur and finish along it to the summit II
  • Nordøst "spur" Nor II, 2
  • Østcouloir East couloir Nor II, 2
  • East face Østveggen Nor IV+, 4+. 300m.
  • Østveggen direkte Nor V+, 6,A2 300m

Eresfjord

Goksøyra (1315m)
Husmannen
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