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Mountains home > Europe > Nordic Countries > Norway > Central Norway > Romsdal

Romsdal

Isterdalen

Kongen group

Kongen (1614m)

SW face

II-, 2 . 3h

1882

First ascent

Carl Hall, Mattias Soggemoen, E. Norahagen

Bispen

Dronninga (1568m)

Karitind (1439m)

Nonshaugen

Finnan group

Finnan (1800m)

SE Ridge

From Stigfoss huts.
II- . 3-4h

1898

First ascent

Carl Hall, Mattias Soggemoen, E. Norahagen

NE glacier

Trolltindane

Breitind (1759m)

W side

From Isterdalen. Approach from the top of Trollstigen road.

West ridge

Nor I . 3h

East face

From Romsdal.

East Pillar

Nor V, 6 . 2000m, 10-12h.

Eastern couloir

IV . 1500m

Nordøstveggen

At first 5 pitches of 75°, then joins East Pillar.
75° . 1700m.

Trollryggen (1742m)

SW side

From Isterdalen. Approach from the top of Trollstigen road.

Nor I . 3h

East Pillar

Trollveggen (Troll Wall)

Over 1000m high north facing wall between Trollryggen and Store Trolltind. There are several routes, all of them very difficult and most involve lots of difficult aid climbing. All are Norwegian grade VI (NCCS VI) or more.


Troll Wall at bigwalls.net: By John Middendorf
Report of Russian new Route Krasnojarsk: Includes topo of classic routes.
Krasnojarsk
Russian Route: Route line

"Norwegian Route"

Nor VI+, 7-,A0 VI 5.10 A3 . 1200m

1965

First ascent

L.Pettersen, O.Eliassen, L. Taigland & O.Enersen

"Arch Wall"

Nor VI+, 7-,A4 VI 5.11- A4 . 1100m

1972

First ascent

D. and Hugh Drummond

"Baltika"

Nor 6,A3. (VI 5.11- A3+ . 1300m

1997-08-01 - 1997-08-08

First ascent

Alexander Odintsov & Igor Potankin

"French diretissima"

Nor VI+, 6+,A4 (VI 5.10 A4) . 1100m

1967

First ascent

V. Boussard, I. Brunet, Patrick Cordier, C. Paluba & F. Frehel

"Russian Route"

ED (Rus 6B), Nor 6+,A4 (VI 5.10, A4) . 1150m

1997-07-14 - 1997-07-25

First ascent

Alexander Ruchkin & Yury Koshelenko

"Trolldom"

Nor 7,A3 (VI 5.11 A3 . 1050m

1985

First ascent

Vadla-Magnussen

"El Cami dels Somnis"

Nor 7-,A3 (VI 5.9 A3 . 1100m

1986

First ascent

Castellvi-Grau-Porta

"Swedish Route"

Nor IV+, 7- (6,A2) (VI 5.11, Brit 6a) . 1000m

1978

First ascent

Johansson-Nilsson

"Raspberry Dream" (Japanese route)

Nor 8- (VI 5.12 . 950m

1987

First ascent

Aastorp-Vadla

"Rimmon Route"

Nor VI+, 6+ (VI 5.10 . 900m

1965

First ascent

Amatt-Howard-Tweedale

"Trollkjerring"

Nor 7 (VI 5.11 . 900m

1982

First ascent

Doseth and partner

"Death to Everyone"

A4, Nor 6-. (VI 5.11 A4 . 600m

1986

First ascent

Vadla and partners

"Suger gjennom Harryland"

Nor 6,A3

Store Trolltind (1788m/1795m/5888ft)

The highest peak in Trolltind group.

West side

From Isterdalen. Approach from the top of Trollstigen road.

West flank

From the top of the Trollstigen road in Isterdalen (Stigfoss) 2h hike to Frokostplassen and another 1h to Buraskaret. From there traverse below Brudgommen and up the couloir in the west to the summit (Nor 2).
Nor II-, 2+ . 4-5h from Isterdalen, 2,5-3h in descent.

1982

First ascent

C. Hall, M. Soggemoen & J. Venge

East Face

Impressive face next to famous Troll Wall.
From Fiva farm in Romsdal.

Fivaruta (Fiva route)

First route to be climbed from Romsdal side. Seldom more difficult than Nor 3, protection sometimes poor. Approach from Fiva farm 0,5h. At first slabs towards left until below SE Ridge of Nordre Trolltind (Nor 2, 2h if soloed). Traverse across stream to gain ridge (avalanche danger). Above snow field along rock ridge between two couloirs to the right of østpilaren of Brugdommen, then along the couloir to the Ugleskaret. From Ugleskaret along the ridge to the summit (Nor 3).
Nor VI-, 4- (yds 5.3) . 1800m, 5-8h

1972-02-25 - 1972-02-28	First winter ascent	Adrzej Dworak, Wojcech Jedlicka, Ryszard Kowakwicki & Tadeusz Piotrowski
1931-08-16	First ascent	Arne Randers Heen & E. Heen

Fivafossen

Winter route from Romsdalen. Climbs the waterfall leading to the snow field in the middle of Fiva route (6 pitches up to WI5), then continues along Fivaroute to the Ugleskaret (Nor 4 in the summer) and further along the ridge to the summit (Nor 3 in the summer).
WI5 . 1800m

Søndre Trolltind (Semletind) (1618m)

Located between Breitind and Trollryggen.

East face

Easist of the three prominent pillars of Trolltindane towards Romsdal.
From Romsdal.

East Pillar "Original"

Climbs at first between East Pillars of Søndre Trolltring and Trollryggen, then makes a traverse to gain the actual pillar.
Nor III+, 4+ . 2000m

East Pillar

Nor IV+, 5 . 2000m

Hoibakk's Chimney

Nor VI, 6,A3

North face

Nor VI+, 6,A4 . 1650m

Nordre Trolltind

Norafjell

Stighorn

Rangågjelet

Romsdalshorn

Kalskratind (1797m)

Uncharted glacier

Romsdalshorn (1550m)

Popular climbing destination located opposite of Troll Wall.
There's large number of routes. Routes on East, North and West faces are all accessed from Vengedal. Easiest route is the normal route on the west side (sections of Nor 2+/3). Nordveggen is the most popular route on the mountain (Nor 4+).
First ascent is believed to have been made by H.Bjermelund & Erik Haal in 1828. First official ascent was made by Carl Hall, Erik Norahagen & Mathias Soggemoen in 1881.

Romsdalshorn.com: Pictures and some information about the classic climbing peak. In English.

East Face

Access from Vengedal (Hornvatnet, 770m).

South Ridge via Halls renne

At first to the right of prominent Halls renne, later through the renne to the col between Romsdalshorn and Lille Romsdalshorn (1525m, Nor 2+ - 3), then along south ridge to the summit (Nor 2).
Nor II, 2+/3 . 800m altitude gain, last 300m climbing. 3-4h from Hornvatnet.

Halls renne direkte

Winter ice climb from Vengedal. Through the Halls renne to the col between Romsdalshorn and Lille Romsdalshorn (WI3 (60-70°). From there along South Ridge to the summit (M3, Nor 2 in the summer).
WI3 (60-70°)

East ridge (Østryggen)

Nor IV, 4 . 180m

North face

North face faces the main ridge of Romsdalshorn group (Litlefjellet).
Access is from Vengedal to the col between Romsdalshorn and Litlefjell (1h), then traverse along the main ridge of Romsdalshorn group to the gap below north face.

Nordveggen (North face)

The most popular route on the Romsdalshorn. Equipped rappel anchors.
Nor III, 3+/4 . 300m (5 pitches), 2h

1920

First ascent

O.H. Furuseth, P. Sabro, R. ødegard & H. Nygard

West face (Vestveggen)

West face faces Romsdal.
Access is from Vengedal to the col between Romsdalshorn and Litlefjell (1h), then traverse along the main ridge of Romsdalshorn group to the gap below north face. From there tracverse to the west face. There are several routes between grades IV and V+, all 300m high. Sydvestryggen is most coonveniently gained by rappelling from the col between Romsdalshorn and Lille Romsdalshorn.

Vestveggen "Altanen"

Nor IV-, 4+ . 300m

West face "direct" (Vestveggen "direkt")

Nor V+, 6- . 1500m

Vestveggen "Korset"

Nor V+, 6- . 300m

Vestveggen "Nasen"

Nor V, 5- . 300m

Vestveggen "Original"

Nor IV+, 5+ . 300m

Sydvestryggen

Nor III, 3+ . 120m

Olaskartind (1428m)

Mongenjura (1276m)

Sydpilaren

VI, 6 . 1000m

Nesaksla (842m)

Mjelva (1215m)

Blånebba (1318m)

Holstind (1018m)

Hornaksla (1515m)

SW slabs

IV, 5 . 1800m

Isfjord ranges

Klauva (1512m)

Juratind (1712m)

Vengetindane

Store Vengetind (1852m)

The easiest route is Nordryggen (North Ridge Nor 2, most often used descent). Other classics are Vesteggen (Nor VI-, 4+/5, 600m) and Drømmediedret (Nor 5-, 300m).

1881

First ascent

Carl Hall, Erik Norahagen & Mathias Soggemoen in 1881 via Nordryggen

North ridge (Nordtyggen)

North ridge from Vengedalsvatnet

From Vengedal lake to obvious gap in N Ridge. Mostly easy with easy climbing on the last 100m. Descent via North Ridge.
Nor II, 2 . 6-8h

1881

First ascent

Carl Hall, Erik Norahagen & Mathias Soggemoen in 1881

West face

Easiest access in from Vengedal on the left side of West Gully (Vestgjelet) leading to the col between Store Vengetind and Lille Vengetind. 2-3h.

West Ridge (Vesteggen)

Nor IV-, 4+/5 . 600m

Drömmediedret

Classic route.
5- . 300m (7 pitches)

South face

Located above the upper part of West Gully (Vestgjelet) leading to the col between Store Vengetind and Lille Vengetind. Easiest access in from Vengedal in the western side by climbing through West Gully to the bottom of the face.

Østryggen via Sydveggen

Nor IV-, 4 . 180m

South face (Sydveggen)

Nor IV+, 5 . 180m

Sydveggen direkte

Nor V+, 5+

Sydvest-renna

Nor IV+, 4+

East face

Easiest access in from Vengedal in the western side by climbing through West Gully to the col between Store Vengetind and Lille Vengetind and descending snow couloir on the east side to the glacier at the bottom of the face.

Gallery route

From the col between Store and Lille Vengetind traverse on the East Face to NE Spur and finish along it to the summit
II

Nordøst "spur"

Nor II, 2

Østcouloir (East couloir)

Nor II, 2

East face (Østveggen)

Nor IV+, 4+

Østveggen direkte

Nor V+, 6,A2 . 300m

Vengetind, Kvandalstind-Romsdalshorn horseshoe

Store Vengetind, Vesteggen, Nor IV-, 5
Store Vengetind, East face "Gallery route", Nor II
Lille Vengetind, North Ridge, Nor II
Lille Vengetind, South Ridge, Nor II, 3
Lille Vengetind, SW Wall, Nor IV, 4+
Søre Vengetind, easy
Kvandalstind, West Ridge, Nor III, 3
Kvandalstind, South Face, Nor II+
Lille Romsdalshorn, East Ridge, Nor IV, 5+?
Lille Romsdalshorn, North Ridge, Nor II, 2
Romsdalshorn, South Ridge, Nor II, 2
Romsdalshorn, North Face, Nor III, 3+/4
Litlefjell,
Holstind, South Ridge, Nor I
Holstind, North Ridge, Nor I
Blånebba South Wall, Nor V, 5-
Mjølva, Nor I

V . 3 days

First ascent

R. Høibakk & co.

Kvandalstind-Vengetind traverse

Kvandalstind, West Ridge, Nor III, 3
Søre Vengetind, easy
Lille Vengetind, South Ridge, Nor II, 3
Lille Vengetind, North Ridge, Nor II
Store Vengetind, East face "Gallery route", Nor II
Store Vengeting, North ridge from Vengedalsvatnet, Nor II, 2, 6-8h.

III+ . 14-16h

Traverse from Søre Vengetind

Søre Vengetind, easy
Lille Vengetind, South Ridge, Nor II, 3
Lille Vengetind, North Ridge, Nor II
Store Vengetind, East face "Gallery route", Nor II
Store Vengeting, North ridge from Vengedalsvatnet, Nor II, 2, 6-8h.

Nor II, 3 . 6-8h

Kvandalstind (1775m)

North ridge

II+, 2

Lille Vengetind

Søre Vengetind

Eresfjord

Goksøyra (1315m)

Husmannen

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