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New Zealand/Mount Cook Area

Mount Cook area is by far the best known area in New Zealand among the climbers. The area contains 29 peaks over 3000 meters, with an exemption of Mount Aspiring (3027m), all other high mountains of the Southern Alps are located in Mt Cook area. Some of the routes in the area are very challenging and there are some large glaciers, spectacular ice falls and immense high altitude snow fields. Most of the climbs are on ice with the best rock being found on Malte Brun and Hicks. The highest mountain of the range, Mount Cook (also known as Aoraki) is 3753m high and has several classic routes, the easiest (although not easy) and most popular being Linda Glacier graded at NZ3/3+ (European AD). There are several more demanding routes on the ridges and faces of the mountain. Mount Tasman with classics Silberhorn Arete and Balfour Face, Malte Brun, Mount Hicks and Mount Haidinger are also popular. Mount Cook village is the closest village. It is possibly to arrange a fly-in from there to several predefined spots in the mountains.

Weather is a major climbing obstacle in the area. Temperature is not extremely cold, during the summer freezing line is around 3200m, and during the winter around 1650m. During the summer climbing season, usually one of three days has a good weather. Bad weather in the mountains often means that there's good weather for rock climbing at twin Stream. Excactly what good does that knowledge do for a climber stuck in a storm high up in the Hooker valley is beyond me, though;-).

The predominant pattern are moist western winds which bring lots of precipitation to the area, especially to the western slopes. Because of heavy downpour, both snow and ice avalanches are common occurrence. Rock falls are also quite common, as pointed out by Mount Cook in 1991, when the true summit collapsed. Especially East Face of Cook is a bowling alley of falling rocks. Climbing it is probably best avoided at least if the leghth of your life is anywhere close to the top of your priorities.

Although the peaks in Mount Cook area are not that high, several of the climbs in Mount Cook area are large in scale. The altitude gain from base to the summit is often huge, many climbs are between 1000-2000 high. For example Linda Glacier, the standard route on Mount Cook has altitude gain of 1700m, about the same as Three Mont Blanc Route (III PD+). While both have ice and snow up to around 50 degrees, Linda glacier is more sustained and far more serious due to broken glacier. It also sees far less traffic.

Generally speaking most climbing is on snow and ice. Which is definitely a good thing given that the quality of rock leaves plenty room for improvement. That being said, Malte Brun, Aiguilles Rouges and Liebig ranges to the SE of Tasman valley have much better quality rock than the most peaks of the area. Also Mount Drake and Magellan to the west of Main Divide have good rock. Approaches are usually over glaciated terrain which is often heavily crevassed. Glacier in Southern Alps move quickly and are correspondingly broken. To make matters worse, crevasses are often hidden below fresh snow.

Mount Cook village (764m) is the village closest to most of the climbs. It is possibly to arrange a fly-in from there to several predefined spots in the mountains. Before going climbing climbers should sign-in at the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park visitor Centre at Mount Cook village. There's similar system also at Franz Josef and Fox glacier townships.

There are several huts in the area providing shelter against the elements. Access to them is often long and tedious over heavily crevassed glacier. Because of this, many climbers choose to fly in from Mount Cook airport. Flight are possible either by ski planes or helicopters to 14 pre-defined landing spots. There are several landing spots on Tasman valley and Franz Josef and Fox glaciers. Hooker valley is off limits to flights though.

  • Sealy Range is located immediately to the west of Mount Cook village. Accessible from Mueller glacier.
  • Highest and best known peaks except for Mount Cook are located in a Main Divide, long ridge of high Peaks running to the west of Tasman valley and to the east of Hooker valley (SW), Fox and Franz Josef glaciers (NW). All peaks of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman are located on Main Divide. East side of Main Divide is accessed from Mueller and Hooker valleys in the south and Tasman valley in the north. West side climbs can be reached from Copland, Srauchon La Perouse and Balfour valleys in the south and Spencer, Fox and Franz Josef glaciers in the north.
  • Mount Cook is located on a separate ridge located between Tasman and Hooker valleys and connected to Main Divide at Green's Saddle, just north of the High Peak. Mount Nazon further to the south is another notable peak on the ridge.
  • East of Tasman valley. Liebig Range is located in southeastern part of th area, to the SE of Murchinson valley. Further north, Aiguilles Rouges and Malte Brun ranges are located to the east of Tasman valley, to the west of Murchinson valley and to the north of Liebig range. These areas is known to have a better quality rock than other areas in Mount Cook region (with the exception of Mount Drake and Mount Magellan). Being located further to the east the area also has better weather than the regions further to the east. Beetham valley between Malte Brun and Aiguilles Rouges serves as a base for many ascents in the area.
  • Palman, Alex: Aoraki Mount Cook - a Guide for Mountaineers, 3rd edition. New Zealand Alpine Club, 2001. Isbn: 0-9597630-1-5.

Mueller glacier area is the most accessible as it is located immediately to the west of Mount Cook Village. The glacier is enclosed by the peaks of Main Divide and Sealy range branching to the east the Main Divide.

Especially Sealy Range with Mount Sealy (2627m) is popular. Most routes on the area are relatively easy, so the area is suitable for the first-time visitors. There are also several longer and more difficult climbs on south faces and on Main Divide. Best known climbing objectives are Mount Sefton (3151m), Vampire Peak (2645m) and Mount Footstool. Mount Sefton is the highest peak climbable from Mueller glacier (NZ 3+ - 5, easier Copland valley). Annette Plateau is good base for climbs in Sealy Range.

  • Mueller hut
    • 1780m.
    • Located to the north of Kitchener, west of Mount Cook village.
    • Connections:
      • from From Mount Cook village (760m) at the entrance of the valley, 1020m (distance 5,2km), 4h.
  • Barron Saddle hut
    • Gps: lat: -43.75832, long: 170.00009, alt: 1995m.
    • Connections:
      • from Mueller hut
      • from From Mount Cook village (760m) at the entrance of the valley.
  • Sefton bivvy
    • 1617m.
    • Connections:
      • from From Mount Cook village (760m) at the entrance of the valley, 3h.
Hooker Valley >

Hooker valley is one of the most spectacular ones in the area. Hooker, Gardiner and Empress huts are important bases in the upper valley, access to which involves some objective danger. Flying is not permitted in the valley. From the Hooker valley, smaller Strauchon and inaccessible La Perouse Glaciers can be reached

Climbs in the upper valley tends to be both difficult and serious, while lower part of the valley has easier routes. Main climbing destinations from the valley are western routes of Mount Cook (Sheila, Hooker and South Faces), Mount Dampier (3440m) and South Face of Mount Hicks (3198m).

  • Sefton bivvy
    • 1617m.
    • Connections:
      • from From Mount Cook village (760m) at the entrance of the valley, 3h.
  • Copland shelter
    • 1960m.
    • Located high, close to Copland Pass.
  • Hooker Hut
    • 1140m.
    • Connections:
      • from From Mount Cook village (760m) at the entrance of the valley, 3-4h.
  • Gardiner Hut
    • 1755m.
    • Connections:
      • from From Mount Cook village (760m) at the entrance of the valley, 6-8h.
  • Empress Hut
    • Empress glacier in upper Hooker valley.. 2516m.
    • Connections:
      • from From Mount Cook village at the entrance of the valley, 9-11h.
Hooker Valley >

Strauchon valley offers access to climbs on Mount la Perouse and Dilemma (2602m). The valley is renowed for outstanding rock climbing including the longest rock climb of Australasia, almost 5000' Direct route on Mount Dilemma's Strauchon Face (27 pitches of 5.7+ rock, NZ5). Access to valley is easiest from Hooker valley through Baker Saddle (2192m, NZ 2).

Hooker Valley >

La Perouse glacier has Mount la Perouse, north face of Mount Hicks, Mount Drake (2960m), Magellan (3049m) and Mount Dampier/Rakiroa (3440m). Access to the valley can be gained either from Hooker valley through Harper Saddle (2585m, NZ 3-), Cook Rover with 2-3days hike or from Tasman valley.

Tasman valley offers probably the best scope for general mountaineering. It allows access to high peaks on Main Divide on the left of Tasman valley and Malte Brun, Aiguilles Rouges and Liebig Ranges to the SE of Tasman valley.

  • lower Tasman valley
  • Grand Plateau
  • Upper Tasman Valley
  • Beetham valley
Tasman valley >

Most climbs in Lower Tasman Valley are not too difficult. However, there are exceptions, most notably 2000m Carolina Face of Mount Cook, the highest face of the range. Access is from Mount Cook village by car to road end (720m). From there 2h hike to Ball Shelter (1020m).

  • Ball Shelter
    • 1020m.
    • Connections:
      • from Access is from Mount Cook village by car to road end (720m). From there 2h hike to Ball Shelter.
  • Caroline hut
    • 1800m.
    • Connections:
      • from By car from Mount Cook village. Ball shelter (1020m), 2h hike from the road end.
Tasman valley >

High glacier Plateau to the east of Tasman valley. Host of long and demanding snow and mixed climbs on the high peaks on Main Divide. Very popular among the climbers as it provides the easiest access to Aoraki/Mount Cook.

All the main climbing objectives of the area are located on the Main Divide. From south to North there are Middle and High Peaks of Mount Cook, Gree's Saddle (3348m), Mount Dampier (3409m) and Mount Hicks (the latter located slightly to the west of the Main Divide, mostly climbed from Hooker valley), Clarke Saddle, Mount Graham with Mount Drake and Magellan further to the west, Silberhorn, Mount Tasman, Engineer col, Lendenfield Peak, Haast with Mount Dixon further to the west, Pioneer Col and Mount Haidinger.

Most popular climbs are Linda Route on Aoraki, Silberhorn Arete and Syme Ridge on Mount Tasman, Mount Haast (3114m) and Mount Dixon (3004m). Plateau and Haast huts are located here.

Access is from Mount Cook village By car to road end in the lower Tasman valley. From there hike via Ball Shelter (2h) through Tasman glacier and Haast Ridge (further 6-8h). The usual practice is to get a small plane ride to the Plateau Hut.

  • Haast hut
    • 1980m.
  • Plateau hut
    • 2200m.
Tasman valley >

Upper Tasman valley has long snow and mixed climbs on the Main Divide, such as Douglas Peak (3077m), Walter Peak (2905m), Mount Darwin (2913m) and Elie de Beaumont (3109m). Most of these have relatively easy normal routes (around NZ 2). 500m high South Face of Douglas Peak has difficult ice routes (NZ 5).

Access through the Tasman valley. From the road end (720m) long hike through Tasman glacier (24km, 15h). Many choose to fly in.

  • Beetham hut
    • 2300m.
  • Kelman hut
  • Tasman Saddle hut
    • Malte Brun Pass. 1100m.
    • Beetham hut destroyed in avalanche.
Tasman valley >

Used to access climbs on Malte Brun and Aiguilles Rouges massifs to the east of Tasman valley. Malte Brun (3199m) range on the east on the other has mainly rock climbs. Beetham glacier falls from the Malte Brun Pass (2400m) separating Malte Brun (N) from Aiguilles Rouges (S).

Acess from Tasman valley, slightly to the south of De la Beche hut.

  • Tasman Saddle hut
    • Malte Brun Pass. 1100m.
    • Beetham hut destroyed in avalanche.

Located to the east of Malte Brun and Aiguilles Rouges massifs. Access from Lower Tasman valley

Remote Balfour glacier is probably most often accessed from Grand Plateau over Silberhorn (NZ3+/4). Most famous climb of the valley is Balfour Face of Mount Tasman. Other highlights include very difficult rock routes of Mount Drake (2974m), Mount Magellan and Torres (3165m).

Spencer glacier, Franz Josef glacier and Fox glaciers are located to the north of Main Divide. Especially Fox glacier is quite popular with several demanding routes. Many climbers choose to fly in. Most popular climbs include North Shoulder of Mount Tasman (3497m), Torres Peak (3160m, traverse Torres - Tasman is a classic), Douglas Peak (3087m), Mount Haast (3114m), Haidinger (3070m) and south faces of Mallory and Barnicoat.

Spencer, Franz Josef & Fox glaciers >
  • Pioneer hut
    • 2380m.
Spencer, Franz Josef & Fox glaciers >
  • Centennial hut
    • 2400m.
  • Almer hut
[Mueller glacier | Hooker Valley | Tasman valley | Murchinson valley | Balfour glacier | Spencer, Franz Josef & Fox glaciers]
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