General

The routes here are organised after the summit they lead to. Routes of the same mountain are sorted by the difficulty grade. Note that difficulty grades do differ, as grading is always somewhat subjective. Grading of some routes do differ considerably between different guide books. The difference may be as great as a whole alpine grade. Thus there is no guarantee, that grades shown here are accurate.

Grading system used in Griffin's guidebooks is different than the one used by Eberlein in the extreme end. Eberlein uses ED-, ED, ED+, ABO- and ABO to refine grading of the extreme routes. Griffin however has adopted free-ending numerical scale to classify such routes.

Route introductions consist of several parts:

Name and alpine grade

[references]

First ascent information
character (ice, snow, rock, mixed), predominant difficulties (alternate grading systems), other difficulties
Height from the begin of the actual route (unless otherwise stated), lentgh and time
Description consisting of information such as best time and/or conditions, danger/commitment, another notions.

Conditions can greatly affect the difficulty, seriousness and time of a route. It has to be considered, that especially ice routes may be a fair bit harder to climb and almost impossible to protect when ice cover is thinner (especially late summer). Blank ice conditions also make climbing ice routes much more strenous. Also general melting of glaciers and possible large rock falls can dramatically change the route over the years.

References made here are to books listed on "Mont Blanc Massif" page.

Mont Blanc 4807 m

Mont Blanc is often referred as the highest mountain in Europe. This is not true, as Elbrus, located in Caucasus, is by far higher. However, Mont Blanc is clearly the highest mountain in the Alps.
Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, scientist from Geneva, started the competition over Mont Blanc by promising a monetary reward of 20 thalers to the first ascender.
First succesfull ascent was made on 8 August 1786 by Michel-Gabriel Paccard (Doctor from Chamonix) and Jaques Balmat (crystal hunter). They found their way up the Rochers Rouges and the North-East slope (biwouak in the Colla della Brenva).
Saussure himself was guided to the top in 1787.
Marie Paradis was the first female to reach the summit (1808).
First winter ascent by I. Straton, J. Charlet & S. Coutett on january 31^st 1876.
Currently there is over 100 routes leading to the top of Mont Blanc.

Mont Blanc: Route Descriptions of normal routes, excerpted from "The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes" by Richard Goedeke at GORP.

Goûter Ridge PD-

[Eberlein #181; Goedeke s.210; Griffin 1#57; Rebuffat #24]

First ascent 18.7.1861 by L.Stephen, F.Tuckett, M.Anderegg, J.Bennen & P.Perren.
II on the rock rib pitches, 40° on the Bosses Ridge.
From Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse 800m, 2-3h and further to Goûter Hut 700m, 2-3h. Summit climb from Goûter Hut 1050m, 4-5 .
Stone fall danger, especially if crossing the couloir to ascend on the south side rock rib above Tête Rousse Hut (easier), only few crevasses. Most frequently used ascent route.

Goûter route PD-
Mont Blanc Page: by Marko Haapakangas. Ascent report of Goûter route PD-. In Finnish.
Mont Blanc, 4807m: Information about two ascents, Goûter route in September 1995 & Three Mont Blanc -route in August 2000 by Dietmar Hahm. In German.
Mont Blanc Trip Report: By Ann Bowker.
1. Lektion des Bergsteigens: Mont Blanc via Goûter PD-.
Steve & Judy's Mont Blanc Page: Ascent via Goûter route PD-, July 1997.
Mont Blanc Tour - 16./17.Juni 1997.: Mainly a photo report of ascent of Goûter route PD-. By Justus Koch. In German.
Mont Blanc August 16-17, 1993: Via Goûter route PD-. From The Mountain Explorer
Infosheet: Mt Blanc: Ascent Via Goûter, descent via Grands Mulets. By the British Mountaineering Council.

Grands Mulets PD

[Eberlein #182; Goedeke s.212; Griffin 1#58]

First ascent 29.7.1859 by E.Headland, G.Hodgkinson, C.Hodson, G.Joan, F.Couttet & two other guides.
Twice as long as Gouter Ridge, only normal clacier travel with crevasses. From téléphérique station Plan de l'Aiguille (2310m) to the Grands Mulets Hut 800m, 3h, from there 1776m and 6-7h to the summit. Occasiobnally plenty of crevasses, route finding problematic in bad weather. Less exposed to wind than Goûter Ridge, thus safest descent route on the bad weather. Popular ski mountaineering route. Starting point: Grands Mulets Hut.

Standard route via Grand Mulet PD
Mont Blanc via Grand Mulet. PD: In German.

Aiguilles Grises (Italian normal route) PD/PD+

[Eberlein #252; Goedeke s.212; Griffin 1#63; Rebuffat #30]

First ascent in 1890 by L. & J.Bonin and Achille Ratti (later Pope Pius XI) with J.Gadin and A.Proment.
Two variations:
1. Glacier Variation PD+, 40°
2. Non Glacier Variation PD, mixed up to II
From Lac Combal in the Val Veni 1050m, 4h to the Gonella Hut, from there 1736m (7-8h) to the summit.
Normal Route from Italy. The route of choice fro those looking for solitude and a beautiful unspoiled scenery. More technical than Goûter Ridge, and one should not under estimate the fact that evrything on the Italian side of Mont Blanc is far away - this is definately a much more commiting route than normal routes on the French side. Disrupted glacier that can be barely passable during late summer.

Italian Normal Route via Aiguille Grises PD+ (40°): Glaciar variant by Matthias Guntau. In German.

Three Mont Blanc -route PD+

[Eberlein #188; Goedeke s.198&201; Griffin 1#62]

First ascent 13.8.1863 by R:Head, J.Grange, A:Orset & J.Perrot.
snow and ice, 50°
Glacier climb with steep snow up to 50°. Bergshrunds on the northern side (especially on the Mont Maudit) can be difficult to pass during (late) summer. Avalance danger on North Face of Mont Maudit and North-West face od Mont Blanc du Tacul after new snow. Route finding can be problematic (compass does not work reliably close to Mont Maudit). Starting Point: Cosmique Hut on Col du Midi. Possibilities to summit Mt Blanc du Tacul & Mt Maudit.

Three Mont Blanc Traverse: By Adrian Baugh.
Mont Blanc - Three MB route from Col du Midi (PD+): KUB mont blanc expedition 1999

North Ridge of Dôme du Goûter AD-

[Eberlein #183; Griffin 1#59]

J.Balmat, J.Carrier, F.Paccard & J.Tournier 8.6.1786.
glacier, 45°, 1800m, 7-8h from Grands Mulets Hut.
Difficult but secure glacier climb. Very long and lonesome route.

Tournette Spur (Rocher du Mont Blanc) AD-

[Eberlein #251; Griffin 1#64]

T.S.Kennedy with Jean-Antoine Carrell and J. Fischer, 2 July 1872. Winter: 3 Sella brothers and 6 guides, 5 Jan 1888.
Mixed climb with III, mostly II and 30°-45° in ice
From Rifugio Quintino Sella 1550m, technical part 1100m, 2½-8½h from the hut.
Elegant and varied line that follows the rocky spur SW from from La Tournette (Pointe 4677). The route lies on the least visited face of the Mont Blanc. The Face lies in the shadow, so it is cold, which renders it safe against stone fall. Not recommended during windy or unsettled weather, as the route is heavily exposed to the wind. Not suitable for descend.

Les Bosses SW Side AD

[Griffin 1#65]

First ascent 29.7.1909 by H. von Hertling & H.Pfann.
mixed, 8-10h from the hut.
Starting points: Quintino Sella Hut/Gonella Hut

Brenva Spur D

[Eberlein #191; Griffin 1#73; Rebuffat #56]

Mont Blanc Brenva (east) face.
Picture from The Mountain Gallery.
Copyright © Quang-Tuan Luong.

First ascent 15.7.1865 by G.Mathews, A:Moore, F. and H.Walker, J. & M. Anderegg. First winter ascent 26.2.1956 by J.Couzy & A.Vialette.
mixed, 45°-50°, II-III
900 meters to the Col de la Brenva, 1300m to the summit.
A tremendous classic and the easiest route on the 1400m high Brenva Face. Difficulty and objective danger varies from year to year. Serac danger. Starting point Bivacco de la Fourche 3674 m.
variation through Güssfeld Couloir D, 55° [Eberlein #191]. After rock fall (1998) propably the most popular way to ascend Brenva Spur. Threatened by ice fall danger.

Summer of '98 Mont Blanc Rock Concert: Attemp on Brenva Spur D-. The original author: Nobuyuki Fujita. The article has been edited and published by the Crux: The Crux is published by the Mountaineering Committee of the Boston Chapter of the AMC.
The Brenva Spur: By Ulrich Kinkel. In German.

Innominata Ridge D/D+ (IV)

[Eberlein #230; Griffin 1#99; Rebuffat #81]

First ascent 19.-20.8.1909 by S.Courtaud, E.Oliver, A.Aufdenblatten, A. & H.Rey.
mixed, 54°, IV+
1000m and 7-12h from Bivouac Eccles
Starting point: Eccles Bivouac Hut.

Red Sentinel D+

[Eberlein #194; Griffin 1#74]

First ascent 1.-2.9.1927 by T.Graham Brown & F.Smythe. First winter ascent 9.3.1961 by walter Bonatti & G.Panei.
mixed, 55°, avg. 47° (1000m), III and II
1300m, 5-6h for the wall, 7-9h from the bivouac to summit.

Peuterey Ridge: Dames Anglaises D+

[Eberlein #214; Goedeke s.222; Griffin 1#85]

First ascent 30.-31.7.1927 by L.Obersteiner & K.Schneirer.
Sustained rock climbing at III and II with passages of IV, mixed, seldom easy, snow or ice up to 55°. Principal difficulty is however the length and sustained and changing demands.
Requires well settled weather. Remote. Everything that can possibly be encountered on high mountains: crevasses on a very disrupted glaciers (especially on retreat); stone-fall in the couloir to the Brèche Nord des Dames Anglaises, especially in good condiotions; loose rock on the rib on the South-East Face; hypothermia on the summit ridge in storm; avalanches on the Rochers Gruber in bad weather, etc. Principal danger is the bad weather forcing a retreat. This will be either a down the Rochers Gruber or difficult ascent to the Col de l'Innominata. Starting Point: Monzino Hut.
See also Aiguille Blanche (de Peuterey)
The most difficult independent 4000 meter peak in the Alps.

Route Major TD-

[Eberlein #195; Griffin 1#75]

T.Graham & F.Smythe 6.-7.8.1928. Winter: M.Shigi 02/1976.
mixed, 57°, IV, 1100m, total 1300m, Col Moore-end of difficulties 6-9h, total 8-12h
Popular route on Brenva Face. Considerably more difficult than Brenva Spur.

Route Major: By Ian Barton

Peuterey Ridge Integral TD+/ED1

[Eberlein #216; Griffin 1#86; Rebuffat #95]

First ascent 24.-26.7.1953 by R.Hechtel & G.Kittelmann. First winter ascent 22.-26.12.1972 by L.Audoubert, M.Feuillarade, M.Galy, Y.Seigneur, A. & O.Squinobal.
V+, mostly IV and V (S Ridge of Aiguille Noire), otherwise II and IV55°
Classic Ridge route over Aiguille Noire and Aiguille Blanche. More than 4500 meters of ascent Peuterey Integral is excessively long. Starting point: Noire Hut.
Consist of Griffin's routes: 1#142-1#143-1#135-1#85.

Central Pillar of Frêney ED1

[Eberlein #224; Griffin 1#91; Rebuffat #100]

Frêney Pillar was regarded as the last of great problems in the Alps. Bad weather forced legendary Walter Bonatti and Pierre Mazeaud to cancel their pursuit in 1961. A few weeks later (27.-29.8.1961) Chris Bonington , I.Clough, J.Djuglosz & D.Whillans succeeded to make first ascent. First winter ascent 1.-6.2.1967 by R.Desmaison & R.Flematti.
VI,A1; free ascent VIII/VIII+ (7a(+)), 500m
Used to be considered to be the most difficult route to summit Mont Blanc.

Central Pillar of Frêney ED1: By Guillaume Dargaud.
Der Frêneypfeiler ED1: One of the most difficult ways to ascent the Blanc. Excellent report with topo, unfortunately for German speakers only.
Central Pillar of Frêney ED1: By Dave Hollinger.

Divine Providence ED3/4

[Eberlein #207; Griffin 1#84]

First ascent 5.-8.8.1984 by Patrick Gabarrou & Franois Marsigny.
extreme rock climb, VII/VII+,A2/3; free (7c+), very sustained at V+, VI, VI+
900m, total 1500m.

Mont Maudit 4465 m

First ascent in 1878 by Johann Jaun & Johann von Bergen with W.E.Davidson and H.Seymour Hoare.

North Slope (normal route) PD+

[Eberlein #301; Goedeke s.201; Griffin 1#156]

P.Casson, P.Kornacker & H.Kuhn 31.7.1901.
pure firn and ice, 45°, avg.35°
400m, 1&freac12;-3h for the slope, total 4-6h from Aiguille du Midi
Usually climbed with Mont Blanc du Tacul in the course of a traverse of Mont Blanc. Bergschrunds can be tricky.

NE Ridge PD

[Eberlein #302; Griffin 1#157]

J.S.Masterman, A.&B.Supersaxo 31.7.1898.
mixed, 40°, III- (places), mostly II
430m, 3h from Col Maudit, 5½-6h from Aiguille du Midi.

Tour Ronde Ridge (Kuffner Ridge) D

[Eberlein #303; Griffin #174; Rebuffat #50]

M.von Kuffner, A.Burgener, H.Furre & anonymous 2.-4.7.1887
mixed, 50°, IV, mostly III
up to N Ridge 500m, 4-6h, 200m, 1h on the ridge, 5&freac12;-7½h from Bivouac de la Fourche
Objectively relatively safe.

Cretier Route (Voie Cretier) D+

[Eberlein #305; Griffin 1#165; Rebuffat #70]

L.Binel, R.Chabod & A.Cretier 4.8.1929. Winter: J.Balmat, D.Ducroz, M.Dandelot & J.Jenny 22.-24.12.1975.
mixed, 58°, IV+, 750m, 7-10h from Trident Hut.

Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 m

Mont Blanc Massif: by Kai Larson. Includes ascents of North Face Triangle; Contamine-Mazeaud route AD+ (Scottish 3) and Albinoni-Gabarrou Couloir TD (Scottish 4).

NW Face (Normal Route) PD

[Eberlein #321; Goedeke s.198, Griffin 1#189; Rebuffat #17]

Hudson-Kennedy party, 8.8.1855.
glacier, 40°, 700m, 2½-3h.
The NW Face is a great, moderately steep glacier route finishing with easy rock scrambling to a pointy summit.

Mont Blanc du Tacul: By Adrian Baugh.
Mont Blanc du Tacul normal route (PD): KUB mont blanc expedition 1999
Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 m: Information about Normal route.

North Face Triangle: Contamine-Mazeaud Route AD+

[Eberlein #325; Griffin 1#223]

First ascent by A Contamine and P Mazeaud, 21.7.1963. First winter ascent by B Gysin 02/1973.
mixed with short sections of 55° (Scottish 3), IV, mostly easier, 350m.
Interesting, varied and popular ice climbing classic. A mixed route featuring steep snow and ice, as well as easy rock scrambling. Technically easier than the Chèré Couloir, though much longer and more exposed. Has "big" climb feeling, thus a great introduction to mixed climbing on big mountains.

Gervasutti Couloir D-

[Eberlein #335; Griffin 1#210; Rebuffat #59]

First ascent of left-hand finish 13.8.1934 by R.Chabod & G.Gervasutti. First ascent of right-hand finish 5/1948 by L.Lachenal & L.Terray. First winter ascent 25.2.1962 by A.Marchioni, L.Mazzaniga, A.Mellano, R.Perego, G.Ribaldone & A.Risso.
55°, avg.50°, 700m, 2-6h
left hand exit more difficult at D+ with Scottish 3.
Stone and ice fall danger, avalanches

Diable Ridge D+

[Griffin 1#190]

M.O'Brien, R.Underhill, A.Charlet & G.Gachet 4.8.1928. Winter: E.Stagni, M.Galley & R.Lambert 9.-10.2.1938.
IV+, 11-13h from Torino Hut.

Chèré Couloir D+

[Eberlein #323; Griffin 1#225]

First ascent 18.8.1973 by R.Chérè & J.Tranchant. First winter ascent 2/1975 by R.Ghilini & B.Pasche.
85° (Scottish 4) (one place), 70° (1 pitch), otherwise 50°-60°
300m, 3-4h to the top of the Triangle ice
Crux pitches are short and steep and are equipped with bolts.

The Chere Couloir: By Adrian Baugh.
Mont Blanc du Tacul Chere Couloir (D-/D Scottish 4): KUB mont blanc expedition 1999.

Gervasutti Pillar TD

[Eberlein #338; Griffin 1#203; Rebuffat #86]

P.Fonelli & G.Mauro 29.-30.7.1951
VI+ one place/A0, mostly V, V+ and VI-, 800m, 7-10m.
Long with over 25 pitches of sustained rock climbing leading directly to the summit. Committing.

The Ghost of Gervasutti: Gervasutti Pillar TD, August 1993 by Paul Harrington.

Supercouloir ED2

[Eberlein #340; Griffin 1#201]

First ascent 18.-20.5.1975 by Jean-Marc Boivin & Patrick Gabarrou.
85° (Scottish 4/5),V+,A1(?), 800m, 8-10h.

Grandes Jorasses 4208 m

Grandes Jorasses has several summits:
- Point Walker (East Summit) 4208m
- Point Whymper (West Summit) 4184m
- Poitn Croz 4110m
- Pointe Marguerita 4066m
- Pointe Hélène 4045m
- Pointe Young 3996m
First ascent of Point Whymper Edward Whymper, M. Croz, C. Almer & F. Biner June 24^th 1865. The party chose not to go to Point Walker, as the ascent was made primarily as reconnaissance for conquest of the Aiguille Verte.
First ascent of Point Walker by H. Walker, M. Anderegg, J. Jaun & J. Grange June 30 ^th 1868.
The attemps to climb the north face form a considerable part of the alpine climbing history. The first ascent finally succeeded in 1935 after some forty attemps by various parties. Climbers were Rudolf Peters and Martin Meier and they followed the Croz Spur in the middle of the face.

SW Side via Pointe Whymper (Normal Route) AD-

[Eberlein #912; Griffin 1#42; Rebuffat #23]

Edward Whymper, M.Croz, C.Almer & F.Biner 24.6.1865.
mixed, ice to 45°, in part rock up to II and occasionally III
Hut climb 1200 m, 4 h, summit climb 1400 m, 6-7 h
Objectively much safer than Direct route to Pointe Walker. Starting point: Grandes Jorasses Hut.

Grandes Jorasses 4208 m: Information about normal Route

SW Side Direct to Pointe Walker AD-

[Eberlein #911; Goedeke s.188; Griffin 1#43]

H.Walker, M.Anderegg, J.Jaun & J.Grange 3.6.1868.
predominantly ice 50°, III, 1400m, 6-7h
First ascent route. Shortest and fastest (5-6 h) way to the summit, though seriously threatened by the seracs. Crevassed glacier.

SW Side via Pointe Croz AD-

[Griffin 1#44]

E.Hasencliver, W.Klemn, F.Konig & R.Weitsenbuck 24.8.1909.
III, 7-8 h
Although longer than preceding routes, this is by far the safest as it avoids the traverse across the snow slope right of the Rocher Reposoir if it is avalanche-prone.

West Ridge D

[Eberlein #915]

G.W.Young, H.O.Jones & J.Knubel 14.8.1911.
mixed, IV, mostly II, 400m, 8h
Often climbed in conjuction with traverse of Arete de Rochefort.

Hirondelles Ridge D+

[Eberlein #945; Griffin 1#57; Rebuffat #66]

First ascent G. Gaia, S. Matteoda, F. Ravelli, G. Rivetti, A. Rey & A. Chenoz 10.8.1927. First winter ascent 8.-9.3.1977 by P. Martinez, P. Monzat & J. Pectors.
V+ and V (20m), mostly III and IV, 750m, 6-8h

The Shroud (Linceul) TD+

North Face of Grandes
Jorasses.

[Eberlein #940; Griffin 1#55]

The Shroud was first climbed 17.-26.1.1968 by Frenchmen René Desmaison & R. Flematty.
75°-80° Scottish 4, avg.60°

Croz Spur TD+

[Eberlein #926; Griffin 1#48; Rebuffat #96]

First climbed 28.-29.6.1935 by M. Meier and R. Peters. First winter ascent by J. Marmier & G. Nominé 10.-13.2.1971.
V+,60°
Starting Point: Leschaux Hut.

Walker Spur ED1

[Eberlein #928; Griffin 1#43; Rebuffat #97]

First climbed 4.-6.8.1939 by Riccardo Cassin, L. Esposito & U. Tizzoni. First winter ascent by walter Bonatti & C. Zappelli 24.-30.1.1963.
free in rock shoes VII-, often VI, VI- and V+/VI-,A1, firn and ice up to 60°
1200m, length 1800m, 12-15h
Starting Point: Leschaux Hut.

Walker Spur ED1: North Face of Grande Jorasses by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 32).

Directe de l'Amitie ED3/4

[Griffin 1#50]

A2/3

Aiguille Verte 4122 m

First ascent 29.6.1865 by E.Whymper, A.Almer & F.Biner,
First winter ascent 15.3.1903 by G.Hasler & C.Jossi via Whymper Couloir.

Moine Ridge (Normal Route) AD

[Eberlein #1182; Goedeke s.178; Griffin 2#92]

G.C.Hodgkinson, Ch.Hudson, T.S.Kennedy, M.Croz, M.A.Ducroz & P.Perren 5.7.1865
Rock-climbing sustained at II with passages of III, some mixed
Hut climb from Montenvers 900 m, 3-4 h. Summit climb 1450 m, 6-9 h from the hut
Best when the very dry. Objectively safer than Whymper Couloir.

Aiguille Verte: By Adrian Baugh.

Whymper Couloir AD+

[Eberlein #1181; Goedeke s.178; Griffin 2#90; Rebuffat #41]

First ascent is unknown as altough Whympers team based their route around Whymper Couloir, they traverse out of the couloir itself at around one third of the height. First descent 17.9.1865 by R.Fowler, M.Balmat & M.Ducroz.
55°, avg.48°
Hut climb from Montenvers 900 m, 3-4 h. Summit climb 1450 m, 6-9 h from the hut.
Large scale snow and ice route that is best climbed during early summer, when climbers profit greatly from generous snow cover. When this is not present, ice climbing may be very hard at bergschrund (on descent this is often problematic involving a big jump or awkward abseiling). Starting point: Couvercle Hut.

Westalpentour 1997: "Die Gruppe "Setöll" unterwegs in den Westalpen auf der Jagd nach den letzten Viertausendern" by Karl Zöll.
The Aiguile Verte - Whymper Couloir (AD+): KUB mont blanc expedition 1999
Aiguille Verte, Whymper Couloir AD+: by Hartmut Bielefeldt. In German.

Couturier Couloir D-

[Eberlein #1218; Griffin 2#102; Rebuffat #79]

H.B.Washburn, G.Charlet, A.Coutett & A.Devouassoux 2.9.1929, Direct variant: M.Couturier, A.Charlet, J.Simond 1.7.1932
pure ice, 55° (300m), avg.49°, 900m, 4-8h

Couloir Y D

[Eberlein #1185; Griffin 2#93]

A.F.Mummery & A.Burgener 30.7.1881
IV mostly easier, 50°, 700m, 6h

Grands Montets Ridge D

[Eberlein #1200; Griffin 2#96; Rebuffat #74]

P.Dalloz, J.Logarde & M. de Ségane 9.-10-8.1925
IV+, mostly III and IV, 50°, 900m, 10-12h

Sans Non Ridge D+

[Eberlein #1187; Griffin 2#94; Rebuffat #77]

Frl.de Longchamp, A.Charlet & M.Bozan 21.9.1926
IV+ (one place), mostly IV and III
850m, 10-15h from Refugio de la Charpoua

Cordier Couloir D+

[Eberlein #1212; Griffin 2#97]

H.Cordier, Th.Middelmore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Anderegg, J.Jaun & A.Maurer 31.7.1876
pure ice, avg.55° (first 550m), 1000m, 7-10h

Aiguille Blanche 4112 m

First ascent was made in 31.7.1885 by Emile Rey, Ambros Supersaxo and Aloys Anthamatten with H.Seymour King via North-West Ridge, Col de Frêney and Col de Peuterey.
Aiguille Blance is considered to be the most difficult of the independent 4000 meter peaks in the Alps (normal route being D+). Today's usual ridge route, using the Frêney Glacier approach, was found in 1928 by L.Obersteiner and K.Schreiner.
Aiguille Blance in generally climbed as a part of Peuterey Ridge -route to the Mont Blanc.

Dames Anglaises Ridge (normal route) D+

[Eberlein #214; Goedeke s.222; Griffin 1#85]

L.Obersteiner & R.Schreiner 30.-31.7.1927.
mixed, IV, mostly III and II, 55°. 2500m from Refuge Monzino, 14-20h.
See also Mont Blanc: Peuterey Ridge Dames Anglaises

Route description: at GORP.

Grande Rocheuse 4102 m

The prominent ridge summit east of the Aiguille Verte but only separated by a col height of about 70 metres. The summit can be taken in on an ascent of the Whymper Couloir with about an hour's extra effort. Can serve as means of descent of the Aiguille Verte, when conditions render Whymper Couloir dangerous.

South Pillar AD

[Goedeke s.183; Griffin 2#91]

First ascent 17.9.1865 by R.Fowler, M.Balmat & M.Ducroz.
Pitches of III, but mostly II.
See Aiguille Verte. However, stone-fall danger only on the lower section of the route.

Mont Brouillard 4053 m

[Goedeke s.219]

Aiguille de Bionassay 4052 m

[Goedeke s.217]

Aiguille du Jardin 4035 m

[Eberlein 1160; Goedeke s.183]

Seldom climbed as an individual goal.

Dent du Géant 4013 m

The Giant's Tooth. Steep rock obelisk located at the end of the Rochefort Ridge.
After the failure of such climbing legends as A.F.Mummery, rockets were used to shoot rope over the summit as a climbing aid. These atemps however did not succeed.
The summit consist of two points:
- Pointe Graham 4013 m
- Pointe Sella 4009 m
First free ascent was made in 1900 by Austrians Heinrich Pfannl, Thomas Maischhberger and Franz Zimmer via North Ridge.

SW Face (Normal Route) AD

[Eberlein #861Goedeke s.195; Griffin 1#5; Rebuffat #33]

First ascent 28.7.1882 by B.,D. & J.Maquignaz with conventional style, although with massive use of aid climbing.
III,A0 (thick ropes); free D, V+
Ascent to the Sella á Manger 550 m (2-3 h), summit block 180 m, 1 h
A classic climb of moderate difficulty. The route is equipped with fixed ropes. It's wort taking some tape slings for belaying on the ropes and their huge anchor pegs. Objectively safe. Some open crevasses on Glacier du Géant.

Dent du Géant: Ordinary Route AD by Guillaume Dargaud.
by Joe Hollaus
Besteigung im Sommer 2000: by Dietmar Hahm. In German.

South Face TD

[Eberlein #863; Griffin 1#12; Rebuffat #57]

H.Burggasser & R.Leist 28.7.1935. Winter: M.May & U.Prato 14.3.1956.
V+, A1, mostly V and A0, seldom easier. Free propably VII-, 130m, 3h.

Aiguille de Rochefort 4001 m

[Goedeke s.192]

Arete de Rochefort AD

[Eberlein #871]

E.Allegra, L.Croux, P.Dayne & A.Bocherd in descent 18.7.1900. First ascent K.Blodig & M.Marten 9.8.1903.
II, snow and ice arête with big cornices on both sides (!). Partially very narrow and exposed. Short sections in rock I and II.
200m, Ridge 800m. 1&freac12;-3h, 3½-5h from refugio Torino.
Classic Ridge from foot of Dent du Géant.

Traverse of Arete de Rochefort from Col du Géant AD

[Eberlein #891; Griffin 1#15]

snow and ice ridge, II and I, main difficulty are the double cornices
1000m, Ridge 2,5km, 9-11h from refuge Torino to Col des Grandes Jorasses, descent from there to Montenvers 5-7-h/to Val Ferret 6-7h.

E-W Traverse of Arete de Rochefort D

[Eberlein #890]

J.u.R.Leininger & P.Mazeaud 4.8.1937
mixed, IV, mostly II and I
Total 600m, Ridge 2,5km, 10-12h from bivouac to Col du Géant.

Les Droites 4000 m

South Ridge (normal route) AD

[Eberlein #1131; Goedeke s.185; Griffin 2#65]

H.Cordier, Th.Middlemore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Jaun & A.Maurer 7.8.1876
mixed, III, mostly easier, 600m, 3½h, 6-7h from Refugio de Couvercle
Relatively serious

East West Traverse AD

[Eberlein #1134]

E.Fontaine, Jean ravanel & Léon Tournier 15.8.1905
III, mostly easier
900m, round trip from Refugio de Couvercle not under 15h.

NE Spur TD/TD+

[Eberlein #1151; Griffin 2#71; Rebuffat #82(?)]

C.Authenac & F.Tournier 20.-21.7.1937. Winter: M.Gryczynski, J.Michalski, J.Stryczinski & J.Warteresiewics 7.-11.3.1963.
mixed, V, mostly IV and III, Scottish 4/5 in ice, 1100m, 12-15h
Minimal objective danger

A weekend in the Alps: North East Spur of the Droites by John Hawkins.

Cornuau-Davaille (Classic) Route ED1

[Eberlein #1141; Griffin 2#75; Rebuffat #99]

Ph.Conuau & M.Davaille 5.-10.9.1955.
extreme mixed climb, 70° (Scottish 4/5), avg.60° (1050m), V, A1, 1050m, 10-20h

Enduring Les Droites North Face: By Peter Wulfraat.

Voie Jackson (Breche des Droites Couloir) ED2

[Eberlein #1142; Griffin 2#76]

J.Ginat, G.Modica, J-P. Siman & J-M.Troussier 24.7.1978
extreme ice climb with mixed pitches, 90° (Scottish 5), cosntatntly 60°-80°, mixed, 1050m, 12-20h

Mont Mallet 3989 m

South Ridge from Aiguille de Rochefort PD

[Eberlein #895; Griffin 1#17]

Leslie Stephen, G.Loppe, F.A.Wallroth, M.Anderegg, Ch.&A.Tournier 4.9.1871.
short mixed ridge, II, 80m, 1h from Aiguille de Rochefort.

North Ridge from Glacier des Périades AD

[Eberlein #896; Griffin 1#18]

P.Perret, F.Simond & E.Cupelin 31.7.1882.
mixed, 45°-50°, III, 500m, 6-7h from Refuge du Requin.

Aiguille d'Argentière 3902 m

First ascent by A Reilly and E Whymper with H Charlet, M Croz and M Payot, 15.7.1864. First winter ascent by M Cottier with M Crettez, 9.1.1910.

South-West Flank (Milieu Glacier) PD+

[Eberlein #1471; Griffin 2#206; Rebuffat #19]

L.Dècle, Y.A.Hutchinson, A.Imserg & L.Lanier 14.8.1880.
glacier ascent of 1200m, 400 of them 35°-40° steep. Steepest passage 50°
1200 m from the Hut, 4-5h from Rifugio d'Argentière.
Very popular route. Lots of crevasses in the center of Glacier du Milieu. Starting point Refugio d'Argentière 2771 m.

West Flank and North East Ridge PD/PD+

[Eberlein #1472; Griffin 2#208]

E.Whymper, A.Reilly, M.Croz, M.Payot & H.Charlet 15.7.1864.
45°
Former normal route. Longer and less elegant than Milieu Glacier.

Barbey Couloir AD

[Eberlein #1478; Griffin 2#214 & 2#215]

A.Barbey & J.Bessard 27.7.1884.
almost pure ice, 50°, avg.45°
600m, 5-6h from Cabane de saleina.
Not recommended for descent
Variation also known as East face Direct (AD).

East-South-East (Fleche Rousse) Ridge AD

[Eberlein #1480; Griffin 2#217]

G.H.Masse, J.H.Wicks, M.C.Wilson 3.8.1893.
mixed, 50°, III, mostly easier
450m, ridge length ca. 1 km, 1½ h

Y Couloir AD

[Eberlein #1483; Griffin 2#218]

H.Cameré 07/1922
firn, avg.45° (450m), 550m, 5½ h
Recommended only in good conditions during early summer. Early start necessary, stonefall danger.

North Face Original Route D-

[Eberlein #1475; Griffin 2#209; Rebuffat #65]

J-lagarde & H.de Ségane 2.8.1926.
pure ice, avg.50°, 600m, 3-6 h
In left part ice fall danger.

Jardin Ridge D

[Eberlein #1485; Griffin 2#220]

M.A.Azéma & A.Charlet 27.8.1942.
IV+ (25 m), mostly IV and III, short mixed sections
900m, ridge ca. 1,5 km, 9h

Aiguille de Triolet 3870 m

Glacier du Talèfre and Col de Triolet (French normnal route) PD+

[Eberlein #1071; Griffin 2#9]

Th.Maischberger, H.Pfannl & F.Zimmer 27.7.1900.
III, 1½-2h from Col de Triolet, 5&rac12;-7h from Refugio de Couvercle.
Starting point: Couvercle Hut
Long but interesting glacier approach, fine finnish. In less than perfect conditions hard for the grade.

SE Ridge (Mont Rouges) Integral AD+

[Eberlein #1072; Griffin 2#15]

E.M.F.Bradby, J.H.Wicks, C.Wilson & H.Rey 9.7.1904.
IV (one place), III, 500m, 6-7½h
Starting point: Triolet (Dalmazzi) Hut

NF Gréloz-Roch (NF Original route) TD-

[Eberlein #1076; Griffin 2#11; Rebuffat #88]

R.Gréloz & A.Roch 20.9.1931.
(almost) pure ice, 58°, avg.54°, Scottish 3, 6-8h
Serious serac hazard

Contamine-Lachenal TD

[Eberlein #1077; Griffin 2#12]

A.Contamine & L.Lachenal 13.9.1947.
60°, avg.54° Scottish 4 and 3 (4-5 pitches), 750 m, 7-10 h
serious

Les Courtes 3856 m

South-South-West Buttress PD

[Griffin 2#55]

T.Graham Brown & F.Smythe 10.9.1927.
Propably the most solid buttress on Talèfre side, still having a fair bit of broken rock. 700m.

Traverse of Main Ridge (normal route) PD+

[Griffin 2#54; Rebuffat #38]

O.Schuster & A.Swaine 17.8.1897.
II, 9h round trip from Couvercle Hut.
In less than perfect snow conditions hard for the grade.

North-East Slope AD

[Eberlein #1111; Griffin 2#56; Rebuffat #29]

P.Chevalier & G.Labour 12.8.1930.
pure ice ascent, 48°, 850 m, 5-6 h
Early start essential as sun hits the face in the morning. One of the most popular routes on Argentière side.

Cordier Route AD

[Griffin 2#57]

H.Cordier, T.Middlemore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Anderegg, J.Jaun & A.Maurer 4.8.1876 (first recorded ascent). Winter: J.Georges & J.Midière 8.-11.3.1974.
50°, II, 850 m, 6-8 h

N Face - Austrian Route D+/TD-

[Griffin 2#59]

H.Drachsler & W.Gstrein 08/1961. Winter: P.Brient & J.Gaboyer 28.2.-2.3.1968.
Scottish 3 (3 pitches), 800 m, 7-9 h
Interesting and sustained ice climbing classic on the left hand side of the face. Objectively safe.

N Face - Swiss Route TD-

[Eberlein #1196; Griffin 2#60; Rebuffat #94]

C.Carnaz & R.Mathey 31.7.1938.
70° (Scottish 3 and 4) (3 pitches), avg.54° (800m), 8-10h
Possibly the most popular route on Argentière wall. Objective danger is negligible in good conditions. Rock belays often possible.

Aiguille du Midi 3842 m

Aiguille du Midi

Arete des Cosmiques PD+/AD

[Eberlein #533; Griffin 2#1]

G. & F.Finch 2.8.1911
mixed, IV+ (6 m)/Aid, mostly II, seldom III, 200m, 2-4h.

Cosmique Experience: Notes from an Unplanned Bivi: From Rock & Ice.
When Can I Go Again?: By Caroline Kinnear.

Mallory Couloir (Voie Mallory-Porter)

[Eberlein #551(?)]

snow and ice, 60°, IV, 1800m
Objectively safe.

Jim and Bills Excellent Adventure: By Jim Frankenfield.

Frendo Spur D+

[Eberlein #541; Griffin 2#15; Rebuffat #62]

E.Frendo & R.Rienda 11.7.1941.
mixed, 60°, IV, mostly easier, 100m, 6-8h
Follows a long, logical line up mixed snow and ice up to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi. Great climb, but very long.

Frendo Spur: By Daniel Stephenson

Grand Capucin 3838 m

East Face Original (Bonatti Route) TD/TD+; ED3

[Griffin 1#254; Rebuffat #89]

W.Bonatti & L.Ghigo 20.-23.7.1951. Winter: G.Alippi, R.Merendi & L.Tenderini 27.2.-1.3.1959.
V+/VI,A1, free VIII/VIII+, 350m, 10h.

Gulliver's Travels (Voyage selon Gulliver) ED3/ABO-

[Eberlein #398; Griffin 2#256]

First ascent by Michel Piola, Pierre-Alain Steiner 18.-19.1984.
VIII-, A0, sustained at VI+ to VII, 350m
4b, 6a, 6c, 6b, VIIa/A3, 5c, 6b, 6c, VIc/A3, 5c, 4c

Aiguille Chardonnet 3824 m

North Flank and West Ridge AD

[Eberlein #1521; Griffin 2#239]

P.W.Thomas, J.Imboden, J.H.Lochmatten 1.8.1879.
45°, III and II, 600m, 4h.

Forbes Arete (East Ridge) AD

[Eberlein #1522; Griffin 2#240; Rebuffat #28]

L.H. & T.Aubert & M.Crettez 30.7.1899.
mixed, 53° (50m), III, 600m, 6-7h.
A traverse of the Chardonnet from east to west via the Forbes Arête. A glacier approach; steep snow and ice to the ridge; snaking and winding over and around towers of solid granite followed by a technical descent back to the glacier.

North Buttress D-

[Eberlein #1525; Griffin 2#242; Rebuffat #43]

A.Migot, C.Devouassoux 28.7.1929.
mixed, III, 54°, 450m, 3-6h
Starting point: Albert Premier Hut
Slightly harder than the Forbes Arête, and is a good introduction to the longer mixed routes of the range.

Mont Dolent 3823 m

Mont Dolent forms the border of three countries France, Italy & Switzerland.

South Flank (normal route) PD

[Eberlein #1391; Griffin 2#32]

E.Whymper, M.Croz, H.Charlet, A.A.Reilly & M.Payot 9.7.1864.
40°, II, mostly easier, 100m, 4h

Mont Dolent 1998: Pictures from the ascent of Mont Dolent, July 1998 (Normal Italian Route via Rif. Fiorio - South Face and South-East ridge) by Romain Wacziarg.

West Slope and North Ridge D

[Eberlein #1393; Griffin 2#35; Rebuffat #45]

H.Kugy, G.Balaffio, J.Croux & D.Promment 29.7.1906.
IV, 50°, 600 m, 8 h
Long and interesting mixed route with sound rock

NW Face D/TD-

[Eberlein #1396; Griffin 2#33]

A.Charlet, M.Couturier, A.Simond 10.6.1934
mixed, 55° (550m), 620m, 4½h
Cold and snowy conditions essential

Tour Ronde 3792 m

North face of Tour Ronde.

First ascent 22.7.1867 by J.Blackhouse, T.Carson, D.Freshfield, C.Tucker, D.Balleys & M.Payot. First winter ascent U.Mautino, J.Petigax & C.Croux in 1895.

South-East Ridge (normal route) PD

FA: J.Blackhouse, T.Carson, D.Freshfield, C.Tucker, D.Balleys & M.Payot 22.7.1867 in descent.
Starting point is Torino Hut at Col du Géant (3375m).
PD. Mixed climb with I-II on rock, 35° on snow/ice (snow couloir variant up to 45°). Ridge length about 600m with 250 meters ascent, 3-4h from Col du Géant.
Starting from Torino Hut (3375m) cross the Col des Flambeaux and go around the base of Aiguille de Toule. From there there are two possibilities: a) follow the glacier on the east side of Tour Ronde to the Col d'Entrèves (3527m, 1,5h from the hut). Follow the snowy South-East ridge, at first on the right side, then turn a series of gendarmes on the left. Reach a snow saddle of Col Freshfield at 3625m. b) Before reaching the Col d'Entrèves head right to relatively steep (max.45 degrees?) snow couloir. Pass the bersgschrund and climb the couloir directly up to Col Freshfield . From Col Freshfield climb on a moderate rock (II) with some airy sections on the granite crest. This is followed by a snowy slope that leads on the foot of final rocks. Scramble them to achieve to summit. In descent 2-3h from summit to Col du Géant. It is possible to rappel the steep rocks down to Col Freshfield.

1) Griffin Lindsay: Mont Blanc Massif, vol I. Alpine Club 1996. ISBN: 0-900523-57-3. pp 130 #267. 2) Eberlein Hartmunt: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe - Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Klettere. Bergverlag Rodulf Rother, 2000. ISBN: 3-7633-2414-3. pp179 #454 (ascent), pp181 #459 (descent). 3) La Tour Ronde Normalweg - Route description of couloir variant in German at der Alpenführer. 4) Gaston Rebuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif : The 100 Finest Routes. The Mountaineers Books, 1996. ISBN: 0898864771. #11. 5) Laroche Jean-Louis & Lelong Florence: Die Gipfel des Montblanc - die schönsten Routen in allen Schwierigkeiten. BLV Verlaggesellschaft mbH, 1999. ISBN: 3-405-15693-9. #7

South-East Ridge (normal route): Route page on SummitPost.
La Tour Ronde Normalweg: Route description in German at www.alpenfuehrer.de.
La Tour Ronde: Photo gallery

Gervasutti Couloir AD

[Eberlein #454; Griffin 1#268]

First ascent 27.7.1934 by R.Chabod & G.Gervasutti.
50°, avg.48°, 250m, 3½h from Col du Géant.
Starting point: Torino Hut.
Lies around to the right in a hidden slot in the west face. Slightly shorter and more enclosed so it lacks the big sense of exposure of the North Face. Good choice if the Face is crowded.

Gervasutti Couloir: Route page on SummitPost.

North Face AD+/D-

[Eberlein #455; Griffin 1#273; Rebuffat #35]

First ascent 23.8.1886 by F.Gonella & A.Berthod. First winter ascent 3.2.1957 by M.Mai, G.Miglio & E.Russo.
60°, avg.52°, 350m, 2-3h.
Direct Finnish IV, 30 m
A challenging route with 10-12 pitches of continuous ice up to 60 degrees. An established ice climbing classic providing good introduction to steeper alpine faces. The Face narrows to an icy couloir in the middle section (crux) then opening up again on the final broad and exposed upper slopes. Very popular, so an easy start is to be recommended to minimize rockfall (the route gets morning sun) and to be ahead of other parties. By keeping on the right side of the slope, it is possible to obtain good rock belays for the most of the route. Staring point: Torino Hut.

North Face: Route page on SummitPost.

Petit Dru 3733 m

S Flank and SW Ridge (Normal Route) D-

[Eberlein #1252; Griffin 2#131]

First ascent29.8.1879 by J.Charlet-Stratton, P.Payot & F.Folliguet.
VI+ and III, 400m, 6-7h
Starting point: Charpoua Hut.

Bonatti Pillar TD+

[Eberlein #1270; Griffin 2#133; Rebuffat #92]

First ascent by W. Bonatti 1955 (solo).
VI, A1, free ED+ VIII/VIII- (7a), 600m
4b, 5b, 6a, 4b, 4c, 4c, 5c, 6a, 5b, 6b, 6c, 5c, 6a, 7a, 4c, 5b, 4b, 5b, 6a, 5c

With Bernd on the Bonatti: Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).

American Direct ED1

[Eberlein #1287; Griffin 2#138; Rebuffat #98]

First ascent by G. Hemming, R. Robbins '62 / L. Bérardini, A. Dagorie, M. Lainé, G. Magnone 1952.
VI, A0, free VII (VIc/A0), 1000m
5c, 5c, 5b, 5c, 4b, 4b, 5c, 5c, 6b, 5c, 5c, 6b, 6b, 5c, 4b, 5b, 5c, 4c, //, 4c, 6c, 6c, A0, 5c, 5c, 5b, 6a, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5c, 4b

American Directissima ED3

[Eberlein #1284(?); Griffin 2#136]

First ascent by J. Harlin, R. Robbins 1965.
A3/4;VIII/VIII+, A0 (7a+), 600m
3, 5b, 4b, 5c, 6b/A0, 6c, 5b, 6c, 7a, 6b/c, 6c, 6c, 7a+, 6b, 6b/c, 6b/c, 6a, 6c, 6b, 6a, 5c, 3

Aiguille du Fou 3501m

Normal Route from Aiguille de Blatière AD+

[Eberlein #661]

E.Fontaine, Jo.&Je.Ravanel. 16.7.1901.
mixed, V (few meters), mostly II and III. Barely altitude gain.
3, 5b, 4b, 5c, 6b/A0, 6c, 5b, 6c, 7a, 6b/c, 6c, 6c, 7a+, 6b, 6b/c, 6b/c, 6a, 6c, 6b, 6a, 5c, 3

South Face ED2/3/ABO

[Eberlein #665; Griffin 2#107; Rebuffat #93]

First ascent by T. Frost, S. Fulton, J. Harlin, G. Hemming 26.7.1963. First free ascent: E.Escoffier & T.Renault 16.7.1983.
VII, A2, free ED5 VIII+ (7b/c), 350m
6c, 7b/c, 7a/b, 6b, 5c, 6b, 6b, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6b/c, 5c

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