Mountains
Galdhøpiggen 2469 m
- Highest Mountain in Scandinavia.
- First climbed by L. Arnesen, S. Flotten and Steinar Sulheim in 1850.
- Galdhöpiggen at PeakWare
- Galdhöpiggen at etojm.com
- In German. Includes descriptions of routes from Juvashytta and Spiterstulen.
From Spiterstulen
- Easy, 1400 m height difference.
- Galdhöpiggen och Glittertind
- From www.utsidan.de. From Spiterstulen. In Swedish.
From Juvashytta
- basic glacier ascent, 635 m height difference
- Journal Excerpt
- By Greg Slayden from Juvashytta (Glacier).
- Galdhøpiggeb
- By Burton A. Falk from Juvashytta (Glacier).
Glittertind 2452
- Second Highest mountain in Scandinavia.
- First climbed by Harald Nicolai Storm-Wergeland and Hans Sletten in 1841.
- Climbing potential on the North Face (FA in 1966).
- Glittertind at etojm.com
- In German. Includes descriptions of routes from Glitterheim and Spiterstulen. Also includes trip report.
- Journal Excerpt
- By Greg Slayden from Spiterstulen.
- A superb mountain, perhaps the finest in Norway. Storen is third highest mountain of Scandinavia. Unlike the two highest mountains, Storen has no easy route to the summit. The climbs are mostly long and strat from the alpine grade AD-. The rock is mainly excellent gabbro.
- Descent: from south summit initially with easy climbing, then rappelling 40m on the Sydvestveien or short rappel down on Heftyes renne and reverse the normal route.
- First ascent: William Cecil Slingsby 21.07.1876 via Slingsby's rute (Slingsbybreen and Mohns skar)
- Forst ascent in winter: Fridthjof Lorentzen, Boye H. Schlytter, 29.3.1923 via Andrew's renne.
- Picture
- Store Skagalstølstind at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions and trip reports.
- Mixed climb with steep and crevassed glacier, NOR 2 on rock on the ridge from Mohns Skar.
- From Bandet (Skagastølsbu ) slightly down towards Midtmaradalen, then to the left (east) until you reach a prominent ledge (known as Berges chussée) that leads to Slingsbybreen. Climb up the glacier to the col (knows as Mohns skar), 2-4 h from Bandet. High up the glacier is partially smelt which can generate the randkluft difficult to pass. From Mohns skar climb up the north ridge (2), at first on the right, later on the left side. Ridge takes about 1h.
- First ascent: William Cecil Slingsby 21.07.1876.
- First ascent in winter: Johan Olav Hattestad, Erik Stoltenberg-Hansson 07.04.1963.
- NTK #27
NTK #33, Lennon pp 64 (normal route from SW ridge, Hjørnet and Heftyes renne)
- First ascent: Johannes Thommassen Heftye, Jens Jensson Klingenberg, Peder Melheim, 14.8.1880
- First ascent in winter: Arne Randers Heen, Bjarne Ugevik, Oskar Mork, 4.1960
- Mainly rock climb with NOR 4- (one passage), 3 pitches, AD+
- From Turtagrø via Skagastølsdalen and Skardstøsbreen to the col between Søre Dyrhaugstind and Store Skagastøstind (1758m, Bandet with Skagastølsbu hut, very full during the summer). Ascent to the ill-defined and partly carned broad south ridge of Store Skagastølstinden towards Skagastølsbreen (marked with stone piles) for 600m (hard scrambling of NOR 1/2); it is advisable to keep well left after the first section to avoid difficult steep slabs. The upper part of the mountain forms a large tower with a prominent gully (Andrews renne) splitting the SW face (below the gully a large sledge slants up right (SE) leading to an exposed corner high above Slingsbybreen. This corner is Hjørnet and should not be confused with another similar corner some 140m lower. An awkward traverse, followed by steep slab to foot of impending wall (NOR 2/3). A steep polished chimney, heftyes renne, is awkward to start, but eases after 15m (NOR 3/4). Scramble to south summit, then cross the gap to main summit. At least 4h from the hut. Variation on lefft and right of the Heftyes renne are 3+ and 4+ respectively.
NTK #38
- First ascent: Alf B.Bryn, Eilert Sundt 1917
- mixed climb with glacier approach, steep snow field and 3/3+ (NOR) on rock
- Approach from Turtagrø through Skagastølsdalen and over Skagastølsbreen to the foot of prominent West Pillar of Store Skagastølstind with snow field, approximately 2h from Turtagrø. Route follows the pillar on the left side (2). A little above the snow field the route gets steeper between the chimneys (at first 1-2, then fairly sustained at 3-3+ for 6 pitches/200m). Face height 500+200m, climbing 3-5h from Skagastølsbreen. Normal rack of rock protection in needed. Fine route, with 3 last pitches offering fine climbing on slabs and diedre.
Skagastølstraverse from North to South (4-)
NTK #R3
- The traverse over all Skagestølstinder is a mountaineering classic. Rock ridge with 4-.
- Start from Turtagrø, and from the hut of alpine club ("Tindeklubb") a bit eastwards and up until above a steep morene field NW from Nordre Skagastølstind (2167 m). Climb this to the summit of Nordre Skagastølstind 2168 m (easy). From here further along ridge (easy) to Skagastølsnebbet 222 and rappel to V-skaret. From V-skaret up to Berges stol (3+) and further upp (2) to Midtre Skagastølstind 2248. From here along exposed ridge to the foot of Halls hammer. This is turned on the left (east) via Patchell's slab (3 - 4-). After this follow the ridge (2) to the top of Vesle Skagastølstind 2340. From there either rappel down to Mohns skar or go down the ridge to the slabbiest point between Vesle Skagastølstind and Centraltind. From here to Mohns skar by following the ramps. From Mohns skar follow the ridge up towards Store Skagastølstind 2405, at first on the right side, later on the left side (2).
Styggedalstinden 2387 m
- Best way fo climb from Skogadalsbøen via Jervvasstind (2351 m). From Jervvastind onwards, easy climbing to Styggedalstinden.
- Another option is to climb from North (Jervassbreen) to col on the east of the summit and from there steeply to the top.
- Another option is traverse over all the summits in the massif from Gjertvasstind over Store Styggedalstind to Centraltind and Mohns skar and further to Store Skagastølstind (3 on rock).
- Styggedalstind at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- Skarstind at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- Vesle Galhøpiggen at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- Surtningssui at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- Store Memurutinden at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- Easiest route is to follow a marked route from Skogadalsbøen for about 2km northwards. Shortly after passing Utla turn left and pass Jervvasselvi (Gjertvasselvi) keeping to the west of Jervasslii (Gjertvasslii) and further along the snowy/icy ridge to the summit.
- Jervvassbreen (Gjertvassbreen) from north. Steep glacier ascent.
- Another option is Skagastølstraverse over all the summits in the massif from Jervvastind to Store Skagastølstind.
- Jervvastind
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- From Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta follow the path to Bøverbreen glacier, keeping the the south of it until it gets flatter. Then follow the glacie. Climb either a couloir between Veslebjørn (2150 m) and Storebjørn or directly to the top of Storebjørn.
- Alternatively, follow Leirbreen to Bjørneskaret and continue along Bjørnebreen to summit.
- From Leirvassbu cross Leira and keep north-west continuing over Storflye, before curving into Tverrbytnede einbiegt. A bit north-east of Tverrbytttjønne cross Tverrbyttbekken and go furthern westwards to north side of Bjørnebreen and follow it to the summit.
- Storebjørn at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- Store Smørstabbtind at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
- Store Smørstabbtind from Krossbu
- Fannaråken at etojm.com
- In German. Includes route descriptions.
