Pallavicinirinne (Grossglockner 3798)

• Franz-Josefshaus 2418 - Hofmannshütte 2444 (Gamsgrubenweg) ¾ h (120).
• Hofmannshütte 2444 - Biwakschachtel 3260 2½ h (87).
• Biwakschachtel 3260 - Pallavinirinne ¾ h (1004).
• Pallavicinirinne 55-60°, III, 660 m, 4 h (5-7h) (1004).

History

• First ascent by A.Pallavicini, J. Tribusser, G. Bäuerle & J. Kramser 18.8.1876.
• First solo ascent (2nd ascent overall) by A. Horeschowsky 6.7.1924.
• First female ascent (3rd ascent overall) by Maria Zeh & Th. Zeh 28.6.1926.
• First descent (4th ascent) by F.Herrmann 2.5.1929.
• First winter ascent (8th ascent overall) by R. Götz 5.2.1953.
• First ski descent by G.Winter & H.Zacharias 7.8.1961.

Description

Pure ice ascent 50°, in upper third 55° (direct variant 60°), 600 m, 4 hours (average). Until early summer often firn, later blank ice. Stonefall danger in NE ridge where ice cover is retreating during the morning hours, also from rope teams in the exit of the route. After snowfall acute avalanche danger. Parade ice climb of Glockner massif, very impressive. Exit to summit rocky.

Approach: ¾ hours from Glockner-Biwakschachtel, 3260 m (R86). First along slope, then slightly descending (crevasses, seracs) below north face and further to firn field on the foot of Pallavicinirinne.

Ascent: Cross the bergshrund and climb directly upwards as the steepness of the couloir increases. Climb directly, slightly to the left of the fall line from Obere Glocknerscharte (summit ridge). Around 60-80 meters below the summit ridge to the right in steep rock (III) to the summit (first ascent exit variation). Another option is a direct ascent to Glocknerscharte (1005). It is slightly steeper (around 60°) and is more of an ice climb than the original variant.

Other routes on Grossglockner north face.