Grossglockner

• First expedition in 1799 led by brothers Klotz from Heiligenblut. Franz Xaver von Salm-Reifferscheid, Cardinal of Roman Kurie, was beared to the mountain. Bad weather generated the first bearer strike in the history of mountain climbing. 25.08.1799 Cardinal stayed at the Adlersruhe as two starkest of the members of the team (including Sigmund von Hohenwart) climbed on with four 'sherpas', ordinary members of the expedition. They reached Kleinglockner.
• Summit of Grossglockner was first reached 28.07.1800 by M. Klotz, S. Klotz, vicar P. Horasch et al.
• First solo ascent by Corbinian Steinberger 17.08.1851.
• First winter ascent by W.A. Baillie-Grohmann, P. Goeder, A. Kerer & K. Gorgasser 02.01.1875.

• Franz-Josefshaus 2418 - Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe') 3454, ~1100m, ~4 h.
• Franz-Josefshaus 2418 - Salmhütte 634 via Stockersharte 2443, 4-5 h (404).
• Salmhütte 634 - Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe') 3454 via Hohenwartscharte, I, 31/2 h.
• From Stüdlhütte (2802m) to Erzherzog-Johannshüttee ('Adlersruhe', 3454m) 21/2h.

East face

• Very popular. Glacier ascent (crevasses) with exposed ridge from Kleinglockner to Grossglockner. Ice pegs for protection. PD, 35°, II. 344m, 11/2h from Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe', 3454m).
• There are several possible starting points. All join at Erzherzog-Johannshöhe ('Adlersruhe', 3454m).
  • from Franz-Josefshaus (2418m) via Hoffmannshütte ("Hofmannsweg")
  • from Stüdlhütte (2802m) ("Alter Kalser Weg")
  • from Salmhütte
• End & Peterka #1002.

Journal Excerpt

Via Hofmannshütte (Hofmannsweg) by Greg Slayden.

Grosslockner am 13. u. 14. August 1988

By Walter Plattner.

• Shortcut to the normal route. Rock. PD, II, 35° (3).
• From Franz-Josefshaus (2418m) along Hoffmannsweg to Frühstückplatz (2793m). From there along Meletzkigrat to Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe', 3454m), II. 61m, 3h. From there along normal route to the summit (35°, II. 344m, 11/2h).
• First ascent of Meletzkigrat by A. Gulden, H. Gulden, H. Mechwart, J. Bernsteiner, A. Lackner & J. Rubitsch 27.07.1892. The route was forgotten for long, until E. Meletzki and G. Hecht used the route again 02.09.1925.
• End & Peterka #1046 (Meletzkigrat) & #1002 (summit)

Grossglockner Meletzkigrat

Route page at Bergsteigen.at.

Glocknerkamp

Route page at SummitPost.

Grossglockner Meletzkigrat

By Petr Homola. In German.

• Franz-Josefshaus 2418 - Hofmannshütte 444 (Gamsgrubenweg) 3/4 h (120).
• Hofmannshütte 444 - Biwakschachtel 3260 21/2 h (87).

Grossglockner north face

Grossglockner nordseite

Topo at bergsteigen.at

• Ultra classic ice ascent 50°, in upper third 55° (direct variant 60°). Until early summer often firn, later blank ice. Stonefall danger in NE ridge where ice cover is retreating during the morning hours, also from rope teams in the exit of the route. After snowfall acute avalanche danger. Parade ice climb of Glockner massif, very impressive. Exit to summit rocky. D-/D, AI1-2 (55°), III. Direct variant AI2 (60°), II. 600m, 2-6h. Starting point: Glocknerbiwak (3260m). (7)
• Approach: 3/4 hours from Glockner-Biwakschachtel (3260m). First along slope, then slightly descending (crevasses, seracs) below north face and further to firn field on the foot of Pallavicinirinne.
• Cross the bergshrund and climb directly upwards as the steepness of the couloir increases. Climb directly, slightly to the left of the fall line from Obere Glocknerscharte (summit ridge). Around 60-80 meters below the summit ridge to the right in steep rock (III) to the summit (first ascent exit variation). Another option is a direct ascent to Glocknerscharte (1005). It is slightly steeper (around 60°) and is more of an ice climb than the original variant.
• First ascent of Pallavicinirinne by A.Pallavicini, J. Tribusser, G. Bänerle & J. Kramser 18.08.1876.
• First solo of Pallavinirinne by A. Horeschowsky 06.07.1924.
• First female ascent of Pallavicinirinne by Maria Zeh & Th. Zeh 28.06.1926.
• First winter ascent (8th ascent overall) by R. Götz 05.02.1953.
• First ski descent by G.Winter & H.Zacharias 07.08.1961.
• End & Peterka #1004

Pallavicinirinne topo

Pallavicinirinne

Route page at SummitPost.

Pallavicinirinne 25.-26.06.2000

Pictures from my ascent with a guide (Robert Strouhal).

Pallavicinirinne

Route page at Bergsteigen.at.

• Classic ice couloir on the north face. Usually followed by oberer Nordwestgrat to summit (140m, UIAA III (direct variant UIAA III+), 1,5h). Most difficult parts are the start and NW Ridge. D-/D, 45-50°, III. 600m, 5,5h. (6)
• Stone fall danger.
• Broad now couloir up to Grögerscneid 3660m (440m, 4h). it is possible to descend from Grögerscheid to the south side (Stüdlhütte, 2802m).
• Oberer Nordwestgrat is a steep ridge on solid rock. Much less frequented than Stüdlgrat, at least as fine. At first firn ridge until the first rocks. The rocks are turned on the left (north) side. Most difficult part is a slightly loose 10 vertical step (Drasch-Platte). It is normally turned on the right side via a narrow ledge (Raggetiner-band) until a crack on the side wall leads back to the ridge crest (UIAA III, exposed, bolts for belaying). It is also possible to to climb the Drasch-Platte directly (UIAA III+, extremely exposed). It is also possible to turn Drash-Platte on the left (north) side via mixed terrain (less exposed but more vague).
• Descent Normal route. Also possible to descent on NW Ridge to Grögeschneid and descent snow couloir (Grögerrinne) towards south to Stüdlhütte.
• First ascent of Berglerrinne to Oberer Nordwestgrat by E. Rainier 09.09.1929 (Ridge to the top climbed already 29.08.1879 by G. Gr & Chr. Ranggetiner).
• First ski descent of Berglerrinne by St. Eder 24.05.1980.
• End & Peterka #1018 (approach) & #1024 (Berglerrinne) & #1033 (Obere NWgrat).

Berglerrinne

Route page at Bergsteigen.at.

Berglerrinne

Route page at SummitPost.

• Famous mixed climb. IV+, 55°, 600 m, 5-7h.
• Approach 1/2 h from Glocknerbiwak (3260m).
• First ascent of Welzenbach-Anstieg by Willo Welzenbach & Karl Wein 19.09.1926.
  

  "On that occasion [Willo Welzenbach] and Karl Wein, arriving in Austria on a Saturday morning after a tiresome overnight rail journey from Munich, cycled some 20 kilometers up the Fusch Valley and crossed a pass involving 1600 metres of ascent to reach the hut serving as a base for their route. With a 2:30 a.m. start on Sunday, they completed their intricate 1400 metres of ascent [of the Grossglockner North Face], in which the face of 600 metres is now recognized as one of the hardest mixed climbs in the Eastern Alps, and returned to base by dusk. Assisted by a full moon, they re-crossed the pass to the Fusch Valley that evening and cycled down to the railway station to catch the night train back to Munich."

  (Eric Roberts, Welzenbach' s Climbs)
• First winter ascent of Welzzenbach-Anstieg by P.Nagy, R.Thaler 02.-04.03.1964.
• End & Peterka Biwakschachtel 3260 - Berglerrinne 1/2 h (1018).
• End & Peterka #1018 (approach) & #1019 (route).

• Varied ice/mixed route on the north face of Grossglockner. Considered by many to be the nicest route on the mountain. At first 200-250m steep snow along lower Facilidesrinne followed by the actual Mayerlsrampe (5 pitches of blank ice up to 70 to Grögerscneid (3660m, 500m, 3,5h). Usually followed by oberer Nordwestgrat to summit (140m, UIAA III (direct variant UIAA III+), 1,5h). Most difficult parts are at the start of Mayerlsrampe and on NW Ridge. D+, WI3- (60-70), III. Total 4-6 from base to summit.
• Less threatened by stone fall danfger than Pallavicinirinne and Berglerrinne.
• Approach 20 min from Biwakschachtel.
• At first 200-250m snow 40-50° along lower Facilidesrinne followed by the actual Mayerlsrampe (5 pitches of blank ice up to AI3 (70°) to Grögerscneid 3660m). It is possible to descend from Grögerscheid to the south side (Stüdlhütte, 2802m).
• Oberer Nordwestgrat is a steep ridge on solid rock. Much less frequented than Stüdlgrat, at least as fine. At first firn ridge until the first rocks. The rocks are turned on the left (north) side. Most difficult part is a slightly loose 10 vertical step (Drasch-Platte). It is normally turned on the right side via a narrow ledge (Raggetiner-band) until a crack on the side wall leads back to the ridge crest (UIAA III, exposed, bolts for belaying). It is also possible to to climb the Drasch-Platte directly (UIAA III+, extremely exposed). It is also possible to turn Drash-Platte on the left (north) side via mixed terrain (less exposed but more vague).
• Descent Normal route. Also possible to descent on NW Ridge to Grögeschneid and descent snow couloir (Grögerrinne) towards south to Stüdlhütte.
• First ascent of Mayerlrampe by S.Mayerl, H.Lindner & H.Messner 19.10.1967.
• First wintera scent of Mayerlrampe W.Petodnig & G.Rpsenfelder 03.-04.01.1970.
• End & Peterka #1018 (approach), #1063 (Mayerlrampe) & #1033 (Obere NWgrat)

Mayerlrampe

Route page at Bergsteigen.at.

• Ideal direct line to the summit through the north face. Mixed. D+/TD, AI2 (55-65°), V, M5, 600m.

• Mixed. V, 90°, 600m, 6h.
• First ascent of Direkte Nordwand by K.Hoi, L.Baumgartner, St.Lackner, A.Prugger & H.Christoph 30.08.1985.
• End & Peterka #1004 (approach), #1016 (route)

• Extreme ice ascent. ED AI6 (90+° (20m), 80° (45m), 60° (2 pitches), 40°). 1/2 h from top of the route via Kleinglocknerkees to Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe', 3454m). From there along notrmal route to the summit.
• First ascent of Eisnase by K. Hoi, L. Baumgartner, G. Hle, W. Haiden, W. Laserer & M. Rust 29.08.1984.
• End & Peterka #1004 (approach), #1056 (Eisnase) & #1002 (normal route from Adlerruhe).

Theo-Riml-Gedenkweg

Route page at Bergsteigen.at.

• Ice route next to Eisnase "Theo-Riml-Gedenkanstieg" and original Schneiderrinne. 75°. 400m, 3,3h. 1/2 h from top of the route via Kleinglocknerkees to Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe', 3454m). From there along notrmal route to the summit.
• First ascent unknown.

Schneiderrinne Light

Route page at Bergsteigen.at.

Northwest ridge & Glocknerwand

• Oberer Nordwestgrat is a steep ridge on solid rock. Much less frequented than Stüdlgrat, at least as fine. At first firn ridge until the first rocks. The rocks are turned on the left (north) side. Most difficult part is a slightly loose 10 vertical step (Drasch-Platte). It is normally turned on the right side via a narrow ledge (Raggetiner-band) until a crack on the side wall leads back to the ridge crest (UIAA III, exposed, bolts for belaying). It is also possible to to climb the Drasch-Platte directly (UIAA III+, extremely exposed). It is also possible to turn Drash-Platte on the left (north) side via mixed terrain (less exposed but more vague).
• D-/D, IV/IV+, 50°. 1000m, 5,5h. Teufelskamp - complete traverse of Glocknerwand - Untere Glocknerscharte - Teufelshorn - Glocknerhorn - Grossglockner.
• Also possible from the north side (Glocknerbiwak).
• End & Peterka #1033 (Obere NWgrat)

• Lucknerhaus 1918 - Stüdlhütte 2802, 884 m, 21/2 h (210).

• PD, II, 35°. (5)
• From Stüdlhütte (2802m) to Erzherzog-Johannshüttee ('Adlersruhe', 3454m) 21/2h. From there along the normal route to the summit (35° II, 344m, 11/2h).
• End & Peterka #54 (to Adlersruhe) & #1002 (summit).

• Classic rock/mixed climb. Roises directly to the summit. AD, III. 534m, 3h. (4)
• Approach from Stüldhütte (2802m) 463m, 1h.
• End & Peterka #1027 (approach) & 1037 (Stüdlgrat).

Stuedlgrat (SW-Grat)

Route page at Bergsteigen.at.

Stüdlgrat

Route page at SummitPost.

Grosslockner, 3798m

Ascent via Stüdlgrat, descent via Normal route in July 1996 by Dietmar Hahm. In German.

• IV, 40-45°, 570m.
• Approach 427m from Stüdlhütte (2802m).
• First ascent of Südwand by V. Pillwax, P. Unterberger & S. Huter 29.06.1891.
• End & Peterka #54 (approach) & 1038 (route).

Südwand

• Rock. AD+, IV+, 600m. Starting point Stüdlhütte (2802m).

Grossglockner

Mountain page at SummitPost.

Grossglockner at Berge der Welt

Glocknergruppe

Grossglockner at Peakware

Grossglockner On-line

Snow report