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Mont Blanc Massif

Aiguilles Rouges

Le Brevent (2525m)
Aiguille de la Gliere (2836m)
Chapelle de la Gliere
SE Ridge
  • D, IV+ . 14 pitches, 3h
  • PD
Aiguille Pouce (2874m)
South face
voie des Dalles
  • TD-, VI- . 400m, 4h
Aiguille l'Index (2595m)
SE Ridge
  • Index telepherique station
SE Ridge
  • descent involves sinbgle abseil (20m).
  • PD+/AD-, 3b/4b, yds 5.7 (one move) . 200m, 1,5h
East face
  • Index telepherique station
Voie Perroux
  • II D, 5c . 250m
Aiguille Perseverance (2901m)
South Ridge
South Ridge
  • AD, IV+ . 250m, 4h
NE Ridge
NE Ridge
  • D, IV+ . 4h
Grande Floria (2888m)
Aiguille Crochues (2840m)
Aiguille Belvedere (2965m)
Aiguille des Chamois (2902m)
Traverse from Aiguille Perseverance
  • From Aiguille Perseverance along its West Ridge to Col de la Perseverance. From there along ENE Ridge of Aiguille des Chamois to summit. Descent via West Ridge to Lac Blanc.
  • PD, III+

North of Mont Dolent

Chardonnet - Pointe de Bron

Aiguille du Tour (3544m)
    There are several and moderate routes. French side routes are up to 500m high.
  • summits:
    • Aiguille du Tour (3542m)
    • Aiguille du Tour (3544m)
East side
  • Refugio Albert I or Cabane du Trient
Traverse
1864-08-18 First ascent C G Heathcote & M Andermatten
South flank
  • Refugio Albert I
Couloir de la Table
  • ice
  • AD 50° (short), mostly 40° II . 840m, 300m in couloir approach 2h, ascent 2h, descent 1,5h
  • Refugio Albert I
Aiguille Forbes (3489m)
  • F
Fenetre du Tour (3336m)
  • Located between Aiguille Forbes and Grande Fourche.
West side
From Glacier du Tour
East side
From Glacier du Saleina
Grande Fourche (3611m)
Petite Fourche (3513m)
Col du Tour (3282m)
  • Between Aiguille Purtscheller and Tête Blanche
West side
West side from Glacier du Tour
East side
east side from Plateau du Trient
  • F . 1h
Aiguille Col du Tour
Tête Blanche (3425m)
Aiguille Purtscheller (3478m)
South ridge
South ridge
  • PD>
Aiguille du Genepi (3265m)
Pointe de Bron (3081m)

Petite Fourche - Aiguilles Dorees - Le Portalet

Le Portalet (3344m)
    North flank
    • Cabane d'Orny
    North Flank
    • snow/ice
    • PD 35-45° . 350m from bergschrund approach, 20-30min, from hut to summit 2-3h
    • Cabane d'Orny
    North flank & West ridge
    • F, II . 350m, 3h
Fenetre de Saleina (3264m)
  • Between Aiguille de la Fenêtre and Petite Fourche
North side
North side from Plateau du Trient
South side
South side from Glacier du Saleina
Tête Biselx (3509m)
North side
East-West traverse of Aiguilles Dorées
  • Tête Crettex - Aiguille Jevelle - Le Trident - Col Copt - Aiguille Sans Nom - Tête Biselx - Aiguille Panchées - Aiguille de la Varappe.
  • IV D-, 6a/IV+,A1 . 400m
  • Cabane du Trient
Col Copt (3410m)
North side
North Couloir des Col Copt
  • ice
  • abseil along left rand
  • AD+/D- 50/55° . 250m in couloir approach 1h, ascend 2h, traverse and descend to the Plateau de Trient 2h
  • Cabane du Trient
1882-07-04 First ascent A Barbey, F Biselx & H Copt
Le Trident (3436m)
Tête Crettex (3419m)
Col des Plines

Bec de Lachat - Aiguille Chardonnet

Aiguille de Chardonnet (3824m)
    Beautiful and important peak. Forbes arete and Migot Spur are the most classic routes, both of which are very worthwhile middle grade routes. There are also few classic ice couloirs between D and TD (around WI4).
NW flank
  • Refugio Albert I,Cabane du Trient
Migot Spur (North Buttress)
  • ice/mixed. Slightly harder than the Forbes Arête, and is a good introduction to the longer mixed routes of the range.
  • D- 54° III . approach 550m, from bergschrund 450m 3-6h from Refugio Albert I
  • Refugio Albert I, Cabane du Trient
1899-07-30 First ascent A.Migot & C.Devouassoux
First winter ascent B Schare & M Bertholet
Gabarrou Couloir (North-West Face 1979 Route)
  • ice.
  • III D+ III WI4 (60-80° for several pitches) 4b in mixed terrain . approach 670m, ascent 450m, 150m of which in the couloir approach 2-3h, ascend 4h, descend 2-3h
  • Refugio Albert I
1979-08-12 First ascent Jean-Paul Michod & Patrick Gabarrou
Voie Escarra
  • ice
  • III D+ III/4 . approach 670m, ascend 450m approach 2-3h, descend 2-3h
  • Refugio Albert I
Charlet-Bettembourg Couloir (North-West Couloir)
  • ice
  • III TD- III WI4, Sco 4, 80° . approach 670m, ascent 450m approach 2-3h, 4-6h, descend 2-3h
  • Refugio Albert I
1972-07-15 First ascent G Bettembourh & J Charlet
1980-03-01 First winter ascent J Charlet & D Pugnat
Aureille-Feutren Couloir (North Couloir)
  • ice. Cold and snowy conditions are necessary, otherwise central part of the route gives steep and problematical mixed climbing.
  • III D+/TD- III WI4+, Sco 4 . approach 620m, ascend 500m approach 2-3h, 4-5h, descend 2-3h
  • Refugio Albert I
2-19-07 First ascent J. Aureille & Y. Feutren
.197-6.-5. First winter ascent J. Beaugey & J. Dupraz
Couloir Norte (Aureille-Feutren)
Excellent route photo. In Spanish
North Flank and West Ridge
  • Mixed (though mostly ice). Glacier de l'Épaule - Col Superior Adams Reilly - West Ridge. Begschrunds not infrequently difficult to pass. Most common descent route. Often used as descent route after ascent of Forbes arete or Migot Spur.
  • AD-/AD 45° III and II . 600m from Refugio Albert I 4h from Refugio Albert I, 5h from Cabane du Trient
  • Refugio Albert I, Cabane du Trient
1879-08-01 First ascent P.W.Thomas, J.Imboden, J.H.Lochmatten
East Ridge
  • Refugio Albert I,Cabane du Trient
Forbes Arete (East Ridge)
  • Mixed. A traverse of the Chardonnet from east to west via the Forbes Arête. A glacier approach; steep snow and ice to the ridge; snaking and winding over and around towers of solid granite followed by a technical descent via North Flank and West Ridge.
  • III AD III AD, 53° (50m) III . approach 550m, from bergschrund 600m 6-7h from Refugio Albert I, descent descent 2-3h
  • Refugio Albert I, Cabane du Trient
1899-07-30 First ascent L.H. & T.Aubert & M.Crettez
Bec de Lachat (2447m)
Bec Rouge Inferior (2841m)
Bec Rouge Superior (3051m)
Aiguille du Passon (3383m)
Aiguille Adams Reilly (3506m)
Col du Chardonnet (3323m)
  • Between Aiguille du Chardonnet and Aiguille d'Argentiére
SW side
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
From d'Argentière glacier
NW side
  • Cabane du Saleina
From glacier du Saleina

Argentiére - Dolent

Le Tour Noir (3837m)
    West flank
    • Rifugio d'Argentière
    Traverse North Ridge - South-East Flank
    First ascent
    SE flank
    • PD
Aiguille d'Argentière (3902m)
    Beatiful and prominent peak, easy to recognise from Argentiere side. There are currently more than 50 routes, with Glacier du Milieu (normal route), North face and Jardin Ridge being classics.
1864-07-15 First ascent A Reilly and E Whymper with H Charlet, M Croz and M Payot
1910-01-09 First winter ascent M Cottier with M Crettez
South flank
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
Y Couloir
  • ice/firn Recommended only in good conditions during early summer. Early start necessary (couloir should be started an hour before sunrise at the latest), stonefall danger.
  • AD avg.45° (450m) . 1130m, 450m in couloir approach 1,5h, ascent 2-3h, descent 2-2,5h
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
1922-07 First ascent H.Cameré (solo)
North face
  • Cabane du Trient
North Face Original
  • ice In left part ice fall danger.
  • D-/D, rus 4A avg.50° IV+ . 650m 3-6h
  • Cabane du Trient
1926-08-02 First ascent Jacques Lagarde & Henri de Ségane
Messner Route (North - North-East Face)
  • mixed
  • D/TD- III/D (55°, avg. 49°) IV, mostly III . 700m ascent 4-6h
1967-08-06 First ascent J.Mayerl, H. Holzer, R. & G. Messner
West face
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
Milieu Glacier (South-West Flank)
  • glacier. Very popular route. Lots of crevasses in the center of Glacier du Milieu.
  • II PD+, G3 II PD+, 50° . 1200m, 400 of them 35°-40° steep 4-5h
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
1880-08-14 First ascent L.Dècle, Y.A.Hutchinson, A.Imserg & L.Lanier
West Flank and North East Ridge (Voie Whymper)
  • Former normal route. Longer and less elegant than Milieu Glacier.
  • PD/PD+ 45° . 1200m
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
1864-07-15 First ascent E.Whymper, A.Reilly, M.Croz, M.Payot & H.Charletr
Jardin Ridge (SW Ridge)
  • rock
  • D IV+ (25 m), mostly IV and III, short mixed sections . 900m 9h, ridge ca. 1,5 km
1942-08-27 First ascent M.A.Azéma & A.Charlet
Traverse (Voie Whymper - Glacier du Millieu)
1864-07-15 First ascent E.Whymper, A.Reilly, M.Croz, M.Payot & H.Charlet
East face
  • Cabane de Saleina
Barbey Couloir
  • ice. Not recommended for descent. Variation also known as East face Direct (AD).
  • AD 50°, avg.45° . 600m 5-6h
  • Cabane de Saleina
1884-07-27 First ascent A.Barbey & J.Bessard
Fleche Rousse Ridge (East-South-East Ridge)
  • mixed
  • AD 50° III, mostly easier . 450m 1,5h, ridge length ca. 1 km
1893-08-03 First ascent G.H.Masse, J.H.Wicks, M.C.Wilson
Aiguille de la Neuve (3753m)
Col du Tour Noir (3535m)
    Possible pass from Cabane du Saleina to Rifugio d'Argentière. Takes more time than the route via Col du Chardonnet.
SW side
  • Glacier d'Argentière
SW side from Glacier d'Argentière
North side
  • Cabane du Saleina
North side from Glacier de Saleina
Col d'Argentière (3552m)
    Pass from Argentiere glacier to Cabane de l'A Neuve
West side
  • Glacier d'Argentière
West side from Glacier d'Argentière
East side
  • Glacier de l'A Neuve
East side from Glacier de l'A Neuve
Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent (3680m)
    2km long ridge between Coll d'Argentière and Brèche de l'Amône. Climbs are generally more difficult from the Swiss side.
Breche de l'Amône
  • Between Aiguille de l'Amône and Mont Dolent
Aiguille de l'Amône (3584m)
    One of the peaks in Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent.
North face
North face
  • D, 50, avg, 48 . 440m
  • PD

Aiguille de la Neuve - Clochers de Planereuse

Grande Lui (3509m)
Grande Darrey (3514m)
Grande Pointe des Planereuses (3151m)
Clochers de Planereuse (2805m)

Grande Darrey - Petites des Essettes

Mont Dolent - Col des Hirondelles

Dolent - Triolet

Mont Dolent (3823m)
  • Located on the border between France (West), Switzerland (NE) and Italy (SE). Four ridges of which East and North ridges are most interesting for climbers.
versant A Neuve
North face (versant d'Argentière)
  • Refuge d'Argentière
West Slope and North Ridge
  • mixed. Long and interesting mixed route with sound rock
  • D IV 50° . 600m 8h
1906-07-29 First ascent H.Kugy, G.Balaffio, J.Croux & D.Promment
Voie Charlet (North-West Face)
  • Easiest of the ice routes from Argentiere glacier mixed Cold and snowy conditions essential
  • III D+/TD- 55° (550m) . 700m 4,5h
1934-06-10 First ascent Armand Charlet, Marcel Couturier & Alfred Simond
South face
  • Bivacco Fiorio
South Flank
1864-07-09 First ascent E.Whymper, M.Croz, H.Charlet, A.A.Reilly & M.Payot
Mont Dolent 1998
Pictures from the ascent of Mont Dolent, July 1998 (Normal Italian Route via Rif. Fiorio - South Face and South-East ridge) by Romain Wacziarg.
East side
  • La-Maye-du-Dolent-Bivouac
Gallet Ridge and Traverse (East Ridge)
  • ice
  • AD 30-45°, bergschrunds steeper III . 1156m, 22230m descent, 700m on the ridge (length 1200m) 5h from bivouac, descent 4h
  • La-Maye-du-Dolent-Bivouac
1901-08-21 First ascent FA (original): A Gallet, A Muller & J Balleys
1907-08-02 First ascent FA (modern variant): A Jacquerod, M Kurz & J Gabiou
Aiguille Triolet (3870m)
    North face
    • Rifugio d'Argentière
    Gréloz-Roch (North Face Original Route)
    • Classic ice route with serious serac hazard. Technically easier than classic routes on the north faces of Les Courtes and Les Droites.
    • V TD- V AI2, Sco 3, 60/65°, avg.54° . 800m 6-8h
    1931-09-20 First ascent Robert Gréloz & André Roch
    Contamine-Lachenal
    • ice. Serious
    • TD V/3, 70°, avg.54° Scottish 4 and 3 (4-5 pitches) . 750m 7-10h
    1947-09-13 First ascent A.Contamine & L.Lachenal
    East side
    • Triolet (Dalmazzi) Hut
    South-East Ridge Integral (Mont Rouges)
    1904-07-09 First ascent E.M.F.Bradby, J.H.Wicks, C.Wilson & H.Rey
    South side
    • Refugio de Couvercle
    Glacier du Talèfre and Col de Triolet (French normal route)
    • rock. Long but interesting glacier approach, fine finnish. In less than perfect conditions hard for the grade.
    • PD+ III . 1,5-2h from Col de Triolet, 5,5-7h from Refugio de Couvercle
    • Refugio de Couvercle
    1900-07-27 First ascent Th.Maischberger, H.Pfannl & F.Zimmer
Pointe de Pre de Bar (3658m)
Pointe du Domino (3655m)
North face
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
Voie Messner-Marchal de la Brèche
  • III TD, rus 5A, III WI3
Petit Viking
  • III TD, III WI4+, Sco IV,5 . 500m
  • AD
Col du Dolent (3484m)

Mont Dolent - Monte Grepillon

Grand Montets - Aiguille Triolet

Petite Aiguille Verte (3512m)
    NW side
    • Rifugio d'Argentière,Grands Montets Lift
    North-West face (Face Nord)
    First ascent André Contamine
    North-West Ridge
    6-18-09 First ascent J.E. & Pierre Charlet
    1927-03-20 First ascent FA in winter: A. Charlet & C. Devouassoux
    NE side
    • Rifugio d'Argentière,Grands Montets Lift
    Couloir Chevalier (East - North-East Couloir)
    • snow/ice
    • West Ridge to Col des Grands Montets (F+/PD-, 1h)
    • II/AD+ to D I/AD (50-55°) . 340m from bergschrund to summit, 250m in couloir ascent 3h, descent 1h to Col des Grands Montets
    • Rifugio d'Argentière, Grands Montets Lift
    1930-08-23 First ascent H. Cameré & Pierre Chevalier
    Couloir Chevalier
    route description at AlpenFührer. In German.
    Le Couloir Chevalier
    Photo report. In French.
Les Droites (4000m)
    North face
    • Refugio d'Argentière
    North-East Spur (Éperon Tournier)
    • mixed. Minimal objective danger
    • TD/TD+, rus 4B(?) 5c (V, mostly IV and III) V/4+, Sco 4/5) . 1100m 12-15h
    1937-07-21 First ascent C.Authenac & F.Tournier
    1963-03-11 First ascent M.Gryczynski, J.Michalski, J.Stryczinski & J.Warteresiewics
    A weekend in the Alps
    by John Hawkins
    Cornuau-Davaille (North Face Classic)
    • mixed.
    • V ED1 IV/4+, Sco 4-5, 70°, avg.60° (1050m) 5c,A1, V,A1 . 1050m 10-20h
    1955-09-10 First ascent Ph.Conuau & M.Davaille
    Voie Jackson (Breche des Droites Couloir)
    • mixed.
    • V ED2 V WI5+, Sco 5, 90°, constantly 60°-80° . 1050m 12-20h
    1978-07-24 First ascent J.Ginat, G.Modica, J-P. Siman & J-M.Troussier
    La Ginat
    • IV ED1, IV WI5, Sco V,5 . 1050m
    Couloir Lagarde
    • IV TD, IV 5, Sco 4, avg 54 . 1050m
    South side
    • Refugio de Couvercle
    South Ridge
    1876-08-07 First ascent H.Cordier, Th.Middlemore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Jaun & A.Maurer
    Les Droites (4000 m) Normalweg
    Bericht 11.-12. August 2001 by Hartmut Bielefeldt. In German.
    East West Traverse
    • mixed
    • AD III, mostly easier . 900m round trip from Refugio de Couvercle not under 15h
    • Refugio de Couvercle
    1905-08-15 First ascent E.Fontaine, Jean ravanel & Léon Tournier
Les Courtes (3856m)
    Popular peak. NE slope is moderate classic while north face is one of the most famous north faces in Mont Blanc area. Swiss route is likely the most popular big ice route in the area.
South side
  • Refugio de Couvercle
Traverse of Main Ridge
  • mixed, in less than perfect snow conditions hard for the grade
  • III/PD+ to AD 45° II . 1170m 9h round trip from Couvercle Hut
  • Couvercle Hut
1897-08-17 First ascent O.Schuster & A.Swaine (West - North-West Ridge)
1904-07-11 First ascent E Fontaine, J Ravanel & L Tournier (South-East Ridge)
South-South-West Buttress
  • rock. Propably the most solid buttress on Talèfre side, still having a fair bit of broken rock
  • PD . 700m
1927-09-10 First ascent T.Graham Brown & F.Smythe
North face
  • Refugio d'Argentière
North Face "Austrian Route" (Voie des Autrichiens)
  • ice. Interesting and sustained ice climbing classic on the left hand side of the face. Considereed by some to be more worthwhile than the more famous Swiss route. Objectively safe.
  • III D+/TD- III/1, Sco 3 (3 pitches) . 800m 7-9h
  • Refugio d'Argentière
1961-08 First ascent H.Drachsler & W.Gstrein
1968-03-002 First winter ascent P.Brient & J.Gaboyer
North Face "Swiss Route" (Voie des Suisses)
  • ice. Possibly the most popular route on Argentière wall. Objective danger is negligible in good conditions. Rock belays often possible.
  • Descend from Rerugio d'Argentière to the Glacier d'Argentière. Cross the glacier to reach the East-North-East Spur (2940m) that comes down from Aiguille Chevanier (little over 1 h).
  • IV TD- IV/3+, 70° (Sco 3 and 4, 3 pitches), avg.54° (800m) . 800m 8-10h
  • Refugio d'Argentière
1938-07-31 First ascent C.Carnaz & R.Mathey
North-East Slope
  • snow/ice. One of the most popular routes on Argentière side. Early start essential as sun hits the face in the morning.
  • III AD III AD, 50, avg. 48° . 850m, total 1100m 5-6h
  • Refugio d'Argentière
1930-08-12 First ascent P.Chevalier & G.Labour
Cordier Route
  • mixed
  • AD/D 50° II . 850m 6-8h
1876-08-04 First ascent H.Cordier, T.Middlemore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Anderegg, J.Jaun & A.Maure
1974-03-11 First winter ascent J.Georges & J.Midière
Grande Rocheuse (4102m)
  • The prominent ridge summit east of the Aiguille Verte but only separated by a col height of about 70 metres. The summit can be taken in on an ascent of the Whymper Couloir with about an hour's extra effort. Can serve as means of descent of the Aiguille Verte, when conditions render Whymper Couloir dangerous.
South side
  • Couvercle Hut
South Pillar
  • rock Stone-fall danger only on the lower section of the route
  • AD Pitches of III, but mostly II . Hut climb from Montenvers 900m, summit climb 1450m Hut climb from Montenvers 3-4h, summit climb 6-9h
  • Couvercle Hut
1865-09-17 First ascent R.Fowler, M.Balmat & M.Ducroz
Aiguille Verte (4122m)
    Very important peak, highest mountain in the northern part of Mont Blanc group. Several routes from all sides, all long and challenging.
1865-06-29 First ascent E.Whymper, A.Almer & F.Biner
1903-03-15 First winter ascent G.Hasler & C.Jossi via Whymper Couloir
North face
  • From Glacier d'Argentière (Rifugio d'Argentière or bivouac at Grands Montets Lift station)
Couturier Couloir
  • ice. Esthetic and logical line, the easiest route on the Argentière Face. Not recommended if blank ice. The couloir get early sun shine so very early start is a must. Normally only small stone fall danger.
  • D- 51° for first 200m, 55° for next 300m, thereafter 45° . 900m 4-8h
  • Refugio d'Argentière, Grands Montets (bivouac)
1929-09-02 First ascent H.B.Washburn, G.Charlet, A.Coutett & A.Devouassoux (Stofer-variant)
1932-07-01 First ascent M.Couturier, A.Charlet, J.Simond (direct variant)
Coutrier Couloir at Sportextreme
Grands Montets Ridge
1925-08-10 First ascent P.Dalloz, J.Logarde & M. de Ségane
Cordier Couloir
1876-07-31 First ascent H.Cordier, Th.Middelmore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Anderegg, J.Jaun & A.Maurer
Nant Blanc Face
Charlet Route (Charlet-Platonov)
  • mixed
  • V D+ 4c (IV, mostly III) V AI2 (58°, avg.52°) . 900m 7-12h
1935-08-22 First ascent A. Charlet & D. Platonov
First winter ascent R. Desmaison & G. Payot
SW Side
  • Glacier Charpoua
Y Couloir (Couloir en Y (branche de gauche))
1881-07-30 First ascent A.F.Mummery & A.Burgener
Sans Nom Ridge
1926-09-21 First ascent Frl.de Longchamp, A.Charlet & M.Bozan
SE Side (Talèfre)
  • Couvercle Hut
Moine Ridge
  • rock, some mixed Best when the very dry. Objectively safer than Whymper Couloir.
  • AD sustained at II with passages of III . Hut climb from Montenvers 900m, summit climb 1450m Hut climb from Montenvers 3-4h, summit climb 6-9h
  • Couvercle Hut
1865-07-05 First ascent G.C.Hodgkinson, Ch.Hudson, T.S.Kennedy, M.Croz, M.A.Ducroz & P.Perren
Whymper Couloir
  • ice. Large scale snow and ice route that is best climbed during early summer, when climbers profit greatly from generous snow cover. When this is not present, ice climbing may be very hard at bergschrund (on descent this is often problematic involving a big jump or awkward abseiling). The Whymper Couloir faces south and thus warms up correspondingly quickly, so an very early start and rapid completion of the route before snow turns rotten and rock starts to fall is essential. When ice is bare, stone fall risk increases.
  • IV AD+/D- 55°, avg.48° . Hut climb from Montenvers 900m, summit climb 620m/1450m Hut climb from Montenvers 3-4h, summit climb 6-9h
  • Couvercle Hut
? First ascent First ascent is unknown as altough Whympers team based their route around Whymper Couloir, they traverse out of the couloir itself at around one third of the height.
1865-09-17 First ascent First Descent: R.Fowler, M.Balmat & M.Ducroz
Aiguille Verte durch das Whympercouloir (4122m)
by Hartmut Bielefeldt. In German.
Aiguille des Grands Montets (3297m)
Col du Armand Charlet (3998m)
Aiguille du Jardin (4035m)
Col de Droites (3733m)
Col des Cristaux (3601m)
Aiguille Mummery (3700m)
Aiguille Ravanel (3696m)
Col des Courtes
  • Between Aiguille Ravanel and Aiguille Triolet.

Les Drus

Petit Dru (3750m)
    West face
    • Charpoua Hut
    South Flank and South-West Ridge of Petit Dru
    1879-08-29 First ascent J.Charlet-Stratton, P.Payot & F.Folliguet
    Bonatti Pillar
    • rock
    • TD+, ED+ (free) VI, A1 7a, VIII/VIII- 4b, 5b, 6a, 4b, 4c, 4c, 5c, 6a, 5b, 6b, 6c, 5c, 6a, 7a, 4c, 5b, 4b, 5b, 6a, 5c . 600m
    1955 First ascent W. Bonatti (solo)
    With Bernd on the Bonatti
    Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
    American Direct
    • rock
    • ED1 6c,A0 yds 5.10+,A0, VI,A0 VII 5c, 5c, 5b, 5c, 4b, 4b, 5c, 5c, 6b, 5c, 5c, 6b, 6b, 5c, 4b, 5b, 5c, 4c, //, 4c, 6c, 6c, A0, 5c, 5c, 5b, 6a, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5c, 4b . 1000m
    1952 First ascent L. Bérardini, A. Dagorie, M. Lainé & G. Magnone
    1962 First ascent G. Hemming & R. Robbins
    With Bernd on the Bonatti
    Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
    American Directissima
    • rock
    • ED3 A3/A4 7a+,A0, VIII/VIII+,A0 3, 5b, 4b, 5c, 6b/A0, 6c, 5b, 6c, 7a, 6b/c, 6c, 6c, 7a+, 6b, 6b/c, 6b/c, 6a, 6c, 6b, 6a, 5c, 3 . 600m
    1965 First ascent John Harlin & Royal Robbins
    With Bernd on the Bonatti
    Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
    North face
    Drucouloir (Couloir Nord des Drus)
    • ice/mixed
    • V ED1 V WI5, 80° 5c,A1-2 . 750m 10-20h
    First ascent Walter Cecchinel & Claude Jaeger
    North Face original
    • TD, V+ . 850m
Pointe Croux
Aiguille Sans Nom (3982m)
Pic Sans Nom (3791m)
Grande Dru (3753m)

Aiguille Moine - Aiguille Verte

Aiguille du Moine (3412m)
La Nonne (3340m)
L'Évêque (3469m)
Le Cardinal (3647m)

Aiguille Triolet - Rouges de Triolet

Aiguille Triolet - Grandes Jorasses

Col du Triolet (3703m)
Pointe Isabella (3761m)
Col du Piolet
Pointe des Papillons
Col de Talèfre (3554m)
Aiguille Savoie (3603m)
Aiguille de Talèfre (3730m)
Col de Pierre Joseph
Aiguille de l'Eboulement (3599m)
Col de Leschaux (3433m)
Aiguille de Leschaux (3759m)
Petites Jorasses (3650m)
  • PD+
South ridge
South ridge
  • D-, V . 400m
West face
West Face Original
  • TD, VI+ . 700m
Pointe de Frébouzie
Pointes des Hirondelles (3524m)
Col des Hirondelles (3480m)

Talèfre - Pierre á Berge

Petite Aiguille Talèfre (3605m)
Aiguille de Pierre Joseph (3361m)

Aiguille de Leschaux - Monte Gruetta

Petit Mont Gruette (3226m)
Mont Gruette (3684m)

Col des Hirondelles - Col du Geant

Grandes Jorasses - Dent du Géant

Mont Mallet (3989m)
    South ridge
    South Ridge from Aiguille de Rochefort
    1871-09-04 First ascent Leslie Stephen, G.Loppe, F.A.Wallroth, M.Anderegg, Ch. & A.Tournier
    North ridge
    North Ridge from Glacier des Périades
    1882-07-31 First ascent P.Perret, F.Simond & E.Cupelin
Dent du Géant (4013m)
    First ascent After the failure of such climbing legends as A.F.Mummery, rockets were used to shoot rope over the summit as a climbing aid. These attemps however did not succeed.
    1900 First free ascent Austrians Heinrich Pfannl, Thomas Maischhberger and Franz Zimmer via North Ridge.
    South side
    • Rifugio Torino
    South-West Face
    • rock. A classic climb of moderate difficulty. The route is equipped with fixed ropes. It's wort taking some tape slings for belaying on the ropes and their huge anchor pegs. Objectively safe. Some open crevasses on Glacier du Géant.
    • III AD- (free D) III,A0 (thick ropes), yds 5.7,A0, free 4c/V+ V+ . ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, summit block 180m ascent to the Sella á Manger 2-3h, summit block 1h
    • Rifugio Torino
    1882-07-28 First ascent B.,D. & J.Maquignaz with conventional style, although with massive use of aid climbing.
    South Face
    • rock
    • From Torino Hut cross to the Col du Géant (3365m) and head north-eastwards round the rock spur of the Aiguilles Marbrées into the wide snow basin under the Col de Rochefort. Past this col and continue in the same direction up to the base of the prominent Aiguille du Géant. First of all, climb the snow couloir (excellent glissading potential durind descent) to the foot of a distinct gendarme. It is also possible to climb on the left of s couloir on the easy rocks. From there move across and climb on the right couloir, up to the broad main ridge. Move up the ridge turning gendarme on the right (east) to gain the Salle á Manger (breakfast place) below the South Face of the Deant du Géant (2-3 hours from the hut).
    • TD V+, A1, mostly V and A0, seldom easier. Free propably VII- . ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, 130m ascent to the Sella á Manger 2-3h, summit block 3h
    • Rifugio Torino
    1935-07-28 First ascent H.Burggasser & R.Leist
    1956-03-14 First ascent FA in winter: M.May & U.Prato
Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m)
    Rochefort ridge (Rochefort Arete)
    • Rifugio Torino
    Traverse of Arete de Rochefort from Col du Géant
    • mixed. Very impressive classic snow and ice ridge on the foot of mighty Dent du Géant. Main difficulty are the picturesque cornices on both sides. Partially very narrow and exposed.
    • III AD, rus 3B-4A III AI1,45° II and I, short sections on the final rocks to reach the summit . ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, 450m, ridge length 2500m 9-10h from refugio Torino to Col des Grandes Jorasses, descent from there to Montenvers 5-7-h/to Val Ferret 6-7h.
    • Rifugio Torino
    1900-07-18 First ascent E. Allegra, L. Croux, P. Dayne & A. Bocherd in descent
    1903-08-09 First ascent K. Blodig & P. Marten
    East-West Traverse of Arete de Rochefort
    1937-08-04 First ascent J.u.R.Leininger & P.Mazeaud
    NE face
    Glacier de Leschaux
Grandes Jorasses (4208m)
  • summits:
    • Point Walker (East Summit) (4208m)
    • Point Whymper (West Summit) (4184m)
    • Point Croz (4110m)
    • Pointe Marguerita (4066m)
    • Pointe Hélène (4045m)
    • Pointe Young (3996m)
1865-06-24 First ascent Point Whymper: Edward Whymper, M. Croz, C. Almer & F. Biner. The party chose not to go to Point Walker, as the ascent was made primarily as reconnaissance for conquest of the Aiguille Verte.
1868-06-30 First ascent Point Walker: H. Walker, M. Anderegg, J. Jaun & J. Grange
North face
  • Leschaux Hut
Hirondelles Ridge
  • mixed.
  • D/D+ 5c/A1 (V+ and V (20m)), mostly III and IV . 750m 6-8h
1927-08-10 First ascent G. Gaia, S. Matteoda, F. Ravelli, G. Rivetti, A. Rey & A. Chenoz
1977-03-09 First winter ascent P. Martinez, P. Monzat & J. Pectors
The Shroud (Linceul)
  • ice
  • IV TD+, rus 5A-6A IV 4, Sco 4, 75°-80°, avg.60° . 750m
1968-01-26 First ascent René Desmaison & R. Flematty
Croz Spur
1935-06-29 First ascent M. Meier and R. Peters
1971-02-13 First winter ascent J. Marmier & G. Nominé
Walker Spur
  • mixed
  • ED1, G13, rus 5D VI-,A1, free in rock shoes VII-, often VI, VI- and V+ firn and ice up to 60° . 1200m, length 1800m 12-15h
  • Leschaux Hut
1939-08-06 First ascent Riccardo Cassin, L. Esposito & U. Tizzon
1963-01-30 First winter ascent Walter Bonatti & C. Zappelli
Directe de l'Amitie
Colton-McIntyre (British Route)
  • ice/mixed
  • VI ED3 VI WI6, AI3, M6, A3 (90°) . 1200m
  • Leschaux Hut
Couloir des Japonais
First ascent
First ascent
No Siesta
  • Ed2/3, rus 6A, VI WI6, 6a,A1/2, VI M8+ . 1200m
South side
  • Grandes Jorasses Hut
South-West Side via Pointe Whymper
  • mixed. Most popular means of ascent and descent. Objectively much safer than Direct route to Pointe Walker. In the snow basin below summit avalanche and ice fall danger. Othervise customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.
  • IV AD- IV AD, 45° 3c, III (occasionally), mostly II . Hut climb 1200m, summit climb 1400m Hut climb 4h, summit climb 6-7h
  • Grandes Jorasses Hut
1865-06-24 First ascent Edward Whymper, M.Croz, C.Almer & F.Biner
South-West Side Direct to Pointe Walker
  • mixed. First ascent route. Shortest and fastest (5-6 h) way to the summit, though seriously threatened by the seracs. Crevassed glacier. In the snow basin below summit avalanche and ice fall danger. Othervise customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.
  • AD- 50° II and occasionally III . Hut climb 1200m, summit climb 1400m Hut climb 4h, summit climb 6-7h
  • Grandes Jorasses Hut
1868-06-03 First ascent H.Walker, M.Anderegg, J.Jaun & J.Grang
South-West Side via Pointe Croz
  • mixed. Although longer than preceding routes, this is by far the safest as it avoids the traverse across the snow slope right of the Rocher Reposoir if it is avalanche-prone. Customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.
  • AD- 45° III . Hut climb 1200m, summit climb 1400m Hut climb 4h, summit climb 7-8h
  • Grandes Jorasses Hut
1909-08-24 First ascent E.Hasencliver, W.Klemn, F.Konig & R.Weitsenbuck
West Ridge
  • mixed.
  • D IV, mostly II . 400m 8h
1911-08-14 First ascent G.W.Young, H.O.Jones & J.Knubel
Calotte de Rochefort (3981m)
Col des Grandes Jorasses (3825m)
Dome de Rochefort (4015m)
Col du Géant (3365m)

Mont Mallet - Capucin du Tacul

Les Périades (3460m)
Capucin du Tacul (3130m)
Aiguille du Tacul (3444m)

Chamonix Aiguilles

Groupe Charmoz - Grepon

Aiguille de l'M (2844m)
NNe ridge
NNe ridge
  • II D-, 5b, IV+, yds 5.7 . 240m
  • F
Aiguille de Roc (3409m)
Aiguilles des Grands Charmoz (3445m)
North face
North face
  • V TD, V M4+, Sco V,6, 65 . 900m
Aiguilles des Petits Charmoz (2867m)
Aiguille de Grépon (3482m)
Tour Rouge (2899m)
Tour Verte (2760m)

Groupe de Blaitière

Aiguille du Fou (3501m)
    South face
    South Face
    • rock
    • ED2/3, ABO/ED5 (free) VII, A2 VIII+ (7b/c) 6c, 7b/c, 7a/b, 6b, 5c, 6b, 6b, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6b/c, 5c . 350m
    1963-07-26 First ascent T. Frost, S. Fulton, J. Harlin & G. Hemming
    1983-07-16 First ascent E.Escoffier & T.Renault
    With Bernd on the Bonatti
    Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
    Normal Route from Aiguille de Blatière
    • mixed
    • AD+ V (few meters), mostly II and III
    1901-07-16 First ascent E.Fontaine, Jo.& Je.Ravanel
Aiguille du Blaitière (3507m)
Spencer couloir
  • III AD/AD+, Sco I, avg. 51 . 300m
Facette NE
  • III TD-, III 3, 70, 4a . 300m
Aiguille des Ciseaux (3479m)
Pointe du Lepiney (3429m)

Groupe du Plan

Aiguilles des Pélerins (3318m)
North face
Rebuffat-Terray (Carrington-Rouse)
  • IV ED2, IV WI5 M6, Sco VI,6 . 550m
Beyond Good and Evil
Aiguille du Peigne (3192m)
Aiguille du Plan (3673m)
North face
Lagarde-Segogne couloir
  • IV TD/TD+, IV WI4, Sco 4, avg. 64, 5c . 900m
North Face Direct
  • IV TD-, IV D, 60, 4c, IV . 1000m
South side
  • PD
West side
Midi-Plan traverse
  • III AD-, Sco II, 40, 3 . 200m
East side
Ryan-Lochmatter Ridge (East Ridge)
  • D/D+, IV+, yds 5.6 . 550m
Dent du Crocodile (3640m)
  • PD
East Ridge
East Ridge
  • TD, V . 520m
Dent du Requin (3422m)
  • AD
North face
North Face Original
  • TD, V,A1 . 700m
Pain de Sucre
North face
Col du Plan
North side
Couloir Col du Plan
  • III D, III AI1, Sco 3, 55 . 600m

Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi (3842m)
    South face
    • Col du Midi
    Ma Dalton
    • ABO-, V 5.12c, 7b+, IX-, V,A1 . 120m
    Contamine
    • ED+, VIII-
    Rebuffat
    • TD+, VI+
    Rebuffart-Pierre
    • D, VI-
    North face
    • Aiguille du Midi telepherique middle station
    Eugster Direct
    Mallory Couloir (Voie Mallory-Porter)
    • snow and ice/mixed Objectively safe.
    • AD+ 60° 4a (IV) . 1000m
    1919-08-05 First ascent G.L.Mallory & H.E.L.Porter
    Jim and Bills Excellent Adventure
    By Jim Frankenfield.
    Frendo Spur
    • mixed. Follows a long, logical line up mixed snow and ice up to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi. Great climb, but very long.
    • III D+, rus 4A-B III WI4, 80° IV, yds 5.7, mostly easier . 1100m 6-8h
    1941-07-11 First ascent E.Frendo & R.Rionda
    Cosmiques Ridge
    • Col du Midi
    Arete des Cosmiques
    1910-08-03 First ascent G. & F.Finch
    When Can I Go Again?
    By Caroline Kinnear
    Goulotte Cascade du Cosmiques
    • III WI5 . 200m
    Eperon du Cosmiques

Mont Blanc Massif

Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont Blanc

Mont Maudit (4465m)
    Most commonly climbed as part of the Three Mont Blanc route. Three Mont Blanc route does not climb the summit though.
First ascent Johann Jaun & Johann von Bergen with W.E.Davidson and H.Seymour Hoare.
North face
  • From Col du Midi over Mont Blanc du tacul
North Slope
  • firn and ice. Usually climbed with Mont Blanc du Tacul in the course of a traverse of Mont Blanc. Bergschrunds can be tricky.
  • PD+ 45°, avg.35° . 4-6h from Aiguille du Midi
  • Aiguille du Midi
1901-07-31 First ascent P.Casson, P.Kornacker & H.Kuhn
North-East Ridge
  • mixed
  • PD 40° III- (places), mostly II . 430m from Col Maudit 3h from Col Maudit, 5,5-6h from Aiguille du Midi
  • Aiguille du Midi
1898-07-31 First ascent J.S.Masterman, A. & B.Supersaxo
Cirque Maudit
  • Glacier du Geant
Kuffner Arete (Kuffner Ridge)
  • mixed. Objectively relatively safe.
  • D, NZ 3+/4 50° 4a (IV, mostly III) . up to North Ridge 500m, from there to summit 200m up to North Ridge 4-6h, from there to summit 1h
  • Bivouac de la Fourche
1887-07-04 First ascent M.von Kuffner, A.Burgener, H.Furre & anonymous
East face
  • Brenva Glacier
Voie Cretier (voie des Italiens)
  • mixed.
  • IV D+/TD- IV D+, 58° 4c, IV+ . 750m 7-10h from Trident Hut
  • Trident Hut
1929-08-04 First ascent L.Binel, R.Chabod & A.Cretier
1975-12-24 First winter ascent J.Balmat, D.Ducroz, M.Dandelot & J.Jenny
Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m)
    Very popular peak, both north and East faces are easily accessible from Aiguille du Midi cable car.
North face
  • Col du Midi
North-West Face
1855-08-08 First ascent Hudson-Kennedy party
Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 m
Information about Normal route.
East face
  • Col du Midi
Gervasutti Couloir
  • ice. Stone and ice fall danger, avalanches
  • Descend alond the normal route (2-3h to the Aiguille du Midi).
  • V D- (right-hand exit)/D+ (left-hand exit). V AI2, Sco 3, 55°, avg.50° (right hand exit)/Sco 3 (left-hand exit) . 700m 2-6h
1934-08-13 First ascent left hand finnish: R.Chabod & G.Gervasutti
1948-05 First ascent right hand finnish: L.Lachenal & L.Terray
1962-02-25 First ascent A.Marchioni, L.Mazzaniga, A.Mellano, R.Perego, G.Ribaldone & A.Risso
Diable Ridge
  • ice.
  • D+ IV+ 35 . 600m 11-13h from Torino Hut
  • Torino Hut
1928-08-04 First ascent M.O'Brien, R.Underhill, A.Charlet & G.Gachet
1938-02-10 First winter ascent E.Stagni, M.Galley & R.Lambert
Gervasutti Pillar
  • Rock. Long with over 25 pitches of sustained rock climbing leading directly to the summit. Committing.
  • IV TD VI+ one place/A0, mostly V, V+ and VI- WI3- . 800m 7-10h
1951-07-30 First ascent P.Fonelli & G.Mauro
The Ghost of Gervasutti
Gervasutti Pillar, Mt. Blanc De Tacul, August 1993 by Paul Harrington. First appeared in the Irish Mountain Log, No 29 Winter 1993
Supercouloir
  • ice/mixed
  • IV IV WI4, Sco 4-5, 85° . 800m 8-10h
Supercouloir Direct
  • ice/mixed
  • V ED2 V WI4-6 M6, Sco 5, 85° 5c/A1 . 800m 8-10h
1975-05-20 First ascent Jean-Marc Boivin & Patrick Gabarrou
Modica-Noury
  • III WI5+ . 250m
Albinoni-Gabarrou
  • III TD-/TD, III WI4+, 85 . 600m
Jaeger Couloir
Voie du Nuit
  • IV M8- . 450m
North face Tringle
  • Col du Midi
Contamine-Negri (North Couloir)
1962-08-05 First ascent P Labrume, J Martin, M Negri & A Contamine
1967-02-12 First winter ascent E Barbeto, M Barbeto, A Bonomi & L Ratto
Contamine-Grisolle
  • mixed. Easiest route on the North face triangle. Sustained mixed climbing with slopes of 45-50° and a short ice couloir of 65° (ice grade II).
  • II AD II AI2, Sco II/III, 65° 5.6 . 400 from bergschrund to the top of the trianle (P 3970), further 280m to the summit approach 1h, face to the summit