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Mountains home > Europe > Alps > Eastern Alps > Central Eastern Alps > Hohe Tauern

[Glockner group | Ankogel group | Goldberg group | Venediger group | Granatzspitz group]

Hohe Tauern

Glockner group

Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm

Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m)

Classic pyramid shaped mountain, located just north of Grossglockner.
Most famous climb is the North Face, on which the tubular ice screws were first used.
Almost 2500m high SE Face is one of the highest faces in the Alps and the highest in Eastern Alps.
First ascent by Cardinal Friedrich, Fürst Schwarzenberg, Priest A. Embacher & five companions in 1841.

Grosses Wiesbachhorn: Mountain page at SummitPost.

North side

Kaindlgrat (NE Ridge)

Snow ridge with some rocky parts
F+/PD-, 35°,I (5.2) . 768m, 2,5-3h from Heinrich Schwaiger Haus (2802m)

First ascent

A. & P. Hetz

Climbing The Sound of Music: Grosses Wiesbachhorn, August 12, 1997 by Pedro I. Espina.
Kaindlgrat: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

North Face

Historically important ice route. Crux is finding a way through rocky middle section. Starting point is Heinrich-Schwaiger Haus (2802m). Part of the mountaineering history as this was the first climb where ice screws were used. Suffers badly from melting, thus the climb often involves some mixed climbing. Therefore the best time to do this climb is spring, when usually good firn conditions can be found.
55°, rock II-III . 400m, 2,5-4h. Approach 1-1,5h.

First ascent

Willo Welzenbach & Pritz Riegele

North Face: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

Klockerin (3419m)

Important peak. Especially over 900m high NW face has difficult routes.

Traverse

Hainrich-Schwaiger Haus (2802m) - Klockerin - Oberwalderhütte (2972m). 5,5h, 884m in ascent, 715m in descent. Nordostanstieg: glacier, 157m, 1h from Wielingerscharte (3265m). Approach via Bratschenkopfscharte (3384m) and Klockerinsattel (3304m). Starting point Heinrich Schwaiger Haus (2802m). End #1554. Descent via Südkamm: I, 330m, 1h from Grubenscharte (3092) in ascent. End #1553
PD+, I, 30°

First ascent

unknown

Westgrat

40° II . 420m, 3h (ridge only), 1382m, 5,5h including approach from Mooserboden (2040m) via Klockerinkees.

First ascent

R. Genin & O. Pitrschmann

Nordwestwand

Stone fall danger
56°, III & IV . 922m. Approach 400m from Mooserboden (2040m). 8h.

	First ascent	Willo Welzenbach & Karl Wien
	First winter ascent	H. Kutscher & L. Hetz

Nordwestrippe

45°, IV- . 889m. Approach 400m from Mooserboden (2040m). 6h.

First ascent

H. Peterka & F. Zimmermann

Glocknerkamm

Grossglockner (3798m)

Grossglockner dominates the eastern Hohe Tauern. It is the highest mountain in Austria and very popular climbing goal offering varied climbing from moderate glacier climbs (normal routes go at PD with 35° and UIAA II) to long rock/mixed ridges (Stüdlgrat with UIAA III-IV, ~AD), from classic ice climbs (Pallavicinirinne, 55°, UIAA III, 600m) of the north side to extreme routes (ie. North Face Direct). It is also very popular among ski mountaineers. <<more>>.

Glocknerwand (3722m)

Not really an independent mountain but rather a continuation of Grossglockner NW Ridge. Separated from Grossglockner by Untere Glocknerscharte.
Consists of several summits: Püschlturm (3721m), Hürtnagelturm (3719m), Hoffmannspitze (3711m), Peterkaturm (3711m), Weitzenbückturm (3702m), Draschturm (3701m) and Gerinturm (3700m).
Glocknerwand has few very worthwhile climbing routes. That being said, the flanks have very bad rock quality.

First ascent

Peter Groder, J. Kerer & Josef Püschl

Hoffmannspitze, NW Ridge

Classic ridge route. Can be reached both from south side (Stüdlhütte) and north side (Glocknerbiwak).
AD, III+ . 920m, 3,5h from Stüdlhütte (2802m)

Traverse to Grossglockner (Grossglockner, Gesamte NW Ridge)

Complete traverse of Glocknerwand from Teufelskamp over all the summits to Untere Glocknerscharte and continuation over Teufelshorn and Glocknerhorn and along NW Ridge of Grossglockner to the summit. Can be reached both from south side (Stüdlhütte) and north side (Glocknerbiwak).
D-/D, IV/IV+, 50° . 1000m, 5,5h (ridge only)

Teufelskamp (3510m)

Climbed easily (G1) from Stüdlhütte (2802m). Starting point of traverse of Glocknerwand.

Nordwand

Pure ice ascent.
50° . 100m

Teufelskamp Nordwand: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

Romariswandkopf (3508m)

Climbed easily (G1) from Stüdlhütte (2802m).

Nordwand "Linker anstieg"

Mixed. Considered to be of similar difficulty than Grossglockner north side routes. Approach from Stüdlhütte (2973m) across Pasterze to the base of the climb (3260m). Many crevasses in descent.
55° II . 250m, 2-3h

First ascent

H. Börnthaler & M. Schwaiger

Romariswandkopf Nordwand: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

Nordwand "Rechter anstieg"

Easiest route on the north face. Approach from Stüdlhütte (2973m) across Pasterze to the base of the climb (3260m). Firn. Many crevasses in descent.
50° . 250m, 2-3h

First ascent

K. Polzer & M. Serger

Nordostrinne

Firn. Many crevasses in descent.
50-55° . 200m, 2h

Schneewinkelkopf (3476m)

Located in Tauernhauptkamm between Romariswandkopf NW summit (3491m) in SE and Eiskögele (3436m) in NW.
Easily climbed from Schneewinkelscharte (3412m) along SE Ridge (End #1152)

Nordwand

Firn and ice ascent. Steepness depends on the chosen line. Approach 1,5-2h from Oberwalder hut (2972m). Ususally climbable even later in the season. Descend via SE Ridge to Schneewinkelscharte (3412m) and further down to Pasterze (many crevasses, good sight necessary).
60-80° (above bergschrund), later 45°, I- . 350m, 1,5-2h

First ascent

E. Feier & F. Mandl

Schneewinkelkopf Nordwand: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

Traverse from Johannisberg

Ice ridge, almost in the style of western Alps. Ridge via Untere Ödenwinkelscharte to Eiskögele (3434m) and further to Schneewinkelkopf. Descent further on the ridge to Schneewinkelscharte. 3h from Johannisberg. (Seibert pp 153). Johannisberg Südwestgrat (SW Ridge) to Ödenwinkelschartenkopf NO Schartl (3240m, 1h, II; End #1335); To Untere Ödenwinkelscharte (3180m, 1h; End #1323 & #1324a); Eiskögele NO Grat (40° II; 256m; 1h (Eisnase variation up to 50°); End #1165 & #1166); traverse Schneewinkelkopf (3476m) - Eiskögelscharte (3419m) - Eiskögele (3436m), Südostgrat (1h; End #1168 & #1160); Schneewinkelkopf, Südostgrat to Schneewinkelscharte (3413m) (normal route, easy, 1h. 65m; End #1152).
PD, II+

Eiskögele (3462m)

Centrally located in Tauernhauptkamm. In SW Lapernwitzkees covers the summit, Gigantic north face has several difficult routes.

Nordflanke

45° . 250m, 3h

Eiskögele Nordflanke: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

Erwin Couloir

Very difficult ice/mixed couloir. Should only be attempted in cold conditions and when there's enough firn.
D+/TD, 60-70° . 450m. Approach 2-3,5h from Rudolfshötte (2311m), ascent 3-5h

First ascent

Hans Börntaler & Stefan Eder

Nordwand

One of the biggest ascents in Glockner group. Mixed.Bad rock, poor protection. Starting point Rudolsfhötte (2311m).
D+, V, AI2 (60°), M5 . Face 550, total 840m from Ödenwinkelkees, 7h

First ascent

Willo Welzenbach & Karl Wien

Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm

Johannisberg (3460m)

Located very close to Oberwalder hut. From SE gentle ice peak, from north 250m ice face, from west 450m high rocky face.

First ascent

G.Banerle

Johannisberg: Mountain page at SummitPost.

SE Flank from Oberwalder Hut

Basic glacier ascent (crevasses)
F+, 40° . 2,5h from Oberwalderhütte (2802m) in ascent, 1-2h in descent

First ascent

E. Rainer

Nordostwand (NE Face)

Easy ice face. Oberwalder hut - Obere Ödwinkelscharte - NE Face - summit - SE Flank - Oberster Pasterzenboden - Oberwalder hut.
45° . 200m. Ascent to Ödwinkelscharte 1-2h, NO-Wand 1-2h, descent 1-2h.

First ascent

H. Peterka & H. Maier

NO-Wand: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

West Face

Ice/mixed route, both longer and more difficult than NE face. Franz-Josefs-Höhe - Pasterze - Hofmanns hut (easy via ferrata) - Oberwalder hut - Obere Ödwinkelscharte - West Face - summit - Oberwalder hut - Franz-Josefs-Höhe. Stone fall danger later in the season. There are several variation in the upper part
47°, I-II. . 450m, 2-3h

First ascent

V. Pillwax, Th. Lechner & F. Nussbauer

Westwand: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

NW Grat

PD, 50° . 500m, 2,5h from Oberwalder hut (2972m), 260m, 1,5h from Obere Ödenwinkelscharte (3228m)

First ascent

K. Hopmann & J. Stüdl & Th. Groder, J. Schnell

Hohe Riffl (3338m)

Located to the north of Johannisberg and Ödenwinkelscharte. Easily climbed from Pasterze (Oberwalderhütte).

Hohe Riffl: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Nordwand

Short but steep ice face. Objectively safe. Bergschrund possibly wide open and difficult to cross. Usually firn in the lower third, higher up blank ice. Starting point either Oberwalderhütte (2972m) or Rudolfshötte (2311m). Does not suffer too badly from melting, possible even later in the season. From Oberwalderhütte over Pasterze to the summit, then descend ridge towards west to the col between Hohe Riffl and Totenkopf (3151m). From there traverse to the base of the face over Obere Rifflkees (Totenlöcher), big crevasses. From there over the bergschrund and straight to the summit. It is also possible to abseil from the summit. Also possible from Rudolshütte (2311m). From there 1027m, 5h (descent 4h). Via Tauernmoossee, Hintere Ochsenflecke and Kapruner Törl to Obere Rifflkees (Totenlöcher).
AD+/D-, 57° . 250m (7-8 pitches), 2-3,5h

First ascent

P. Aschenbrenner & K. Baumgartner

Riffl Nordwand: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.
Hohe Riffl - North Face: Route page at SummitPost.

Fucherkarkopf (FKK) (3331m)

Located very close to Oberwalder hut.
Not a very important mountain but offers various mountaineering routes and fine panorama towards Grossglockner north side.
It is also possible to climb from the south side starting from Gamsgrubenweg, but the rock is very loose on that side.

Fucherkarkopf: Mountain page at SummitPost.

NW Ridge

Broad ridge starting from Fuscherkartor (2841m, col between Fuscherkarkopf in the south and Breitkopf in the north). Starting point Oberwalder hut (2972m, approach 0,5h) or Franz-Josefs-Hoehe (2362m via Gamsgrubenweg and Wasserfallwinkel). Often used as descent.
PD, II (short sections, mostly walk-up) . 450m, 2,5h from Oberwalder hut.

NW Ridge: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

North Face

Once a classic ice face, nowadays the ice has completely melted. Thus the route is only possible during the winter, spring and (very early summer) when there's still enough snow. Because of melting the route is somewhat stonefall endangered even during spring, later in the season stone fall danger is unjustifiably high. Clasisc snow/ice face. Uniform steepness around 50°. Depending on the snow conditions upper part might have rock (mixed) sections up to UIAA II. The face is relatively broad, there's enough room for several parties. Approach from Oberwalderhütte (2972) across the glacier to Fuscherkartor (2814m) and to the base of the face (few if any crevasses), 0,5h. Alternatively from Franz Josefs höhe via Hoffmannshütte to Wasserfallwinkel and further to Fuscherkartor and to the base of the climb, 550m, 2h. Descent most commonly along NW Ridge to Fuscherkartor and further to Oberwalderhütte (2972m). Good skiers can ski down the north face. Speep record Oberwalderhütte - FKK North Face - FKK summit - Oberwalderhütte is ~1,5h!
AD-, 50° . 450m, 2-4h depending whether you choose to belay or solo.

First ascent

F. Riegele & H. Angerer in 1923

North Face: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

SW Ridge "Gamsgrubengrat"

Slightly easier than NW Ridge. From Franz-Josefs-Hoehe (2362m).
~PD, II

Ödenwinkelschartenkopf (3269m)

Located in Tauernhauptkamm between Unterer Ödenwinkelscharte (3180m) in SW and Johannisberg (3453m) in N.
Easily climbed from SE, SW and NE (all glacier ascents) but North Face is a challenging climb.

Nordwand

From Rudolshütte (2311m) to Ödenwinkelkeel and to the base of the climb at 2858m, 2,5h.
47° in access ramp (firn), III+ . 400m, 4,5h

First ascent

K. Hofmann, J. Stödl & J. Schnell, Th. Grader

Eiswandbichl (3200m)

Eiswandbichl: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Nordwand

Short ice face located very close to Oberwalderhütte (2973m). Because of this suitable as bad weather alternative. Approach 0,5h from Oberwalderhütte (2972m) via Bockarscharte. Bergschrund possibly problematic.
45° . 100m

First ascent

unknown

Schattseitköpfl (3193m)

Located between Hohe Riffl (3338m) and Vordere Bärenkopf (3250m), separated from the former by Riffltor (3116m) and from the latter by Führerscharte (3102m).
Climber easily via moderate firn flanks from both Riffltor and Führerscharte.

NE Ridge

Start at ~2720m on Obere Karlingerboden.
II . 470m, 1,5h

First ascent

H. Peterka & H. Mayer

Nordwand

Firn & mixed. Descent from Riffltor to Karlingerkees and go to the right to the foot of the face. At first rocky part, later on ice to summit. Possible cornice.
Ice up to 60°, II-III . 210m

First ascent

O. Feutl & co.

Schattseitkopfl Nordwand: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

Ankogel group

Hochalmspitze (3360m)

Highest peak in Ankogel group.
There are several ridges in all directions forming a small massif.
There are several huts around the peak but no cable cars or ski lifts.

South face

South Ridge "Detmoldegrat"

South ridge-Detmolder Grat: Route page at SummitPost.

Südgrat

D-, V . 300m

North face

"Gussenbauerrinne"

Ice/mixed. Usually good conditions only during spring.
D, 57°, II-III . 280m, 1,5-3h

First ascent

Karl Gussenbauer & J. Weichslederer & Krapfl

Gussenbauerrinne: Sample tour of Jentzsch-Rabl Alex & Jentzsch Andreas: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen.

Nördlichste Rinne (north couloir)

55° . 260m

Nördlichste Rinne: Route page at www.bergsteigen.at.

West face

"Lohn der Angst"

D, AI1-2 (60°), V+ . 250m

First ascent

Robert & Peter Winkler

Ankogel (3256m)

Goldberg group

Hoher Sonnblick (3105m)

Venediger group

Grossvenediger (3666m)

First 'big' try was made in 1828 by Grand Duke (Erzherzog) Johann via NW face with Paul Rohregger and Christian Reiss. Lawine forced them to cancel their quest as Rohregger got seriously injured.
First ascent 3.9.1841 by Ignaz von Kürsinger via Northern Route.