Breithorn and Klein Matterhorn seen from Gandegg hut. Credit: Ari Paulin,  Shot on 2010-03-06 Photo taken in , Zermatt, Wallis, Switzerland.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.
Breithorn and Klein Matterhorn seen from Gandegg hut. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2010-03-06 Photo taken in , Zermatt, Wallis, Switzerland.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.

Western Valais (Grand Combin)

Mont Velán

Mont Velán3731
Huge snow peak with variety of classic ascents.
  • AC West 4a-h
via Glacier de Valsorey. F+; 35°, I; 4,5-5h.
  • Hochtouren 34
  • Biner 210 PD, II
  • SAC 2 159 PD, II
NNW ridge
Arête Tseudet (NNW ridge). AD; III.
  • Biner 212 AD, III
  • SAC 2 150 AD, III
Mt. Avril3347
Accessible to hill walkers.
  • AC West 12a-b

Grand Combin

Grand Combin4320
  • Combin de Grafeneire (4314m)
  • Combin de Valsorey (4184m)
  • Aiguille du Croissant (4320m)
  • Combin de la Tsessette (4141m)
France, Alps, Western Alps - Pennine Alps - Western Pennine Alps - Grand Combin, Located on the north side of Chamonix valley..
1857-01-01
Grand Combin, Corridor Route,
First ascent
Corridor Route: Benjamin Felley, Maurice Felley and Jouvence Bruchez
1872-09-16
Grand Combin, South Flank of Combin de Valsorey,
First ascent
South Flank of Combin de Valsorey: J.H. Isler & Joseph Gillioz
1884-09-01
Grand Combin, Meitingrat,
First ascent
Meitingrat: C. Boisviel, D. Balleys & S. Henry
1933-01-01
Grand Combin, NW Face of Combin de Grafenerie,
First ascent
NW Face of Combin de Grafenerie: E.R.Blanchet & K.Moore
1958-05-21
Grand Combin, NW Face of Combin de Valsorey,
First ascent
NW Face of Combin de Valsorey: Egbert Eidher & Erich Vanis
1958-09-08
Grand Combin, NW Flank of Combin de Grafeneire,
First ascent
NW Flank of Combin de Grafeneire: Henry Bruchez, Hilaire Dumeulin, Louis Maret & René Michaud
Combin de Grafeneire, NW side
NW Flank of Combin de Grafeneire. III PD; 45°, I; 1650m, 6-8h from Panossiérehütte (2645m). 1958-09-08First ascentHenry Bruchez, Hilaire Dumeulin, Louis Maret & René Michaud, 1958-09-08.
  • Biner 218
  • SAC 2 338
  • AC West 15a AD-
  • Vaucher 24
  • Moran 37b
Corridor Route. PD/G4; 45°; 1650m, 6-7h from Panossiérehütte. 1857-01-01First ascentBenjamin Felley, Maurice Felley and Jouvence Bruchez, 1857.
Old normal route. Technically easiest route, but very serious (comparable to Russion Roulette) due to ice fall danger when crossing accross NW face under big seracs.
NW Face of Combin de Grafenerie. Ice, AD+; 50 (occasionally steeper on seracs)°; 1450m, 5h from Valsorey hut. 1933-01-01First ascentE.R.Blanchet & K.Moore, 1933.
Combin de Valsorey, NW side
NW Face of Combin de Valsorey. D/D+; 60°, III; 700m, 4h. 5-7h from Valsorey hut. 1958-05-21First ascentEgbert Eidher & Erich Vanis, 1958-05-21.
Route starts at 3550m.
  • Biner 219
  • SAC 2 349
  • AC West 16c D
  • Moran 37c
Combin de Valsorey, South side
Meitingrat (Meitin Ridge, West Ridge des Combin de Valsorey). Mixed, AD; 3c/III, mostly II and easier; 1300m, 5-6,5h from Valsorey hut, 7-8h from Panossiérehütte. 1884-09-01First ascentC. Boisviel, D. Balleys & S. Henry, 1884-09-01.
Either from Valsorey hut (3030m) via glacier du Meitin to Col du Meitin or from Panossiérehütte via Plateau des Maisons Blanches to Col du Meitin. Bivoac hut B. Musso is located on the southern slopes of Grand Combin above Valsorey hut.
  • Biner 220
  • SAC 2 348
  • AC West 16b AD-/AD
  • Moran 37a AD-
  • Vaucher 44
  • Hochtouren 33
South Flank of Combin de Valsorey (SW Flanke). Mixed, PD+; 45°, II and easier; 1300m, 5-6h from Valsorey hut. 1872-09-16First ascentJ.H. Isler & Joseph Gillioz, 1872-09-16.
  • Biner 221
  • SAC 2 347
  • AC West 16a PD+
Traverse. D; VI+; 13,5h to bridge along the road to Cabane de Combin (2045m), additional 1,5h to the hut.
Combin de Valsorey, Meitingrat (5h) Combin de Grafenerie Aiguille du Croissan (4243m) Combin de la Tsessette from Col du Croissant (1,5h) Tour de Boussine, Arête de Boussine (SE Ridge) descend to Glacier de Boussine .
  • Biner 222
Petit Combin3672
  • Hochtouren 31
  • Biner 215
  • SAC 2 498
Tournelon Blanc3703
  • Hochtouren 32
  • Biner 223
  • SAC 2 372

Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla

Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla3646
Group consisting of three main summits on Arolla and Dix valleys watershed.
N-S traverse. Rock, AD/D; IV; 8h.
  • AC West 57a D
  • Biner 232
  • SAC 2 1301

Cheilon - Pigne d'Arolla

Col de Cheilon3243
Located between Cheilon and Gietro glaciers. Popular connection between Dix and Chanrion huts (F).
  • AC West 39 F
La Ruinette3875
The highest peak between Grand Combing and Dent d'Hérens. Most interesting feature is 500m high NW face with mixed routes between AD+ and TD/TD+. Located to SW of Mont Blanc de Cheilon, a bit south of main chain.
  • AC West 40, 41c
  • Biner 225
  • SAC 2 942
  • Hochtouren 36
Mont Blanc de Cheilon3870
Majestic pyramid located at the end of Dix valley. Normal route is easy. Traverse from Col de la Serpentine is worthwhile mid grade outing. North face is one the best known features in western Valais Alps an d has routes around 600m high between grades AD+ and TD/TD+. Central Couloir is a classic.
  • AC West 41
North face
500m triangular face with easy access. Besides the classic route, there are several alternative routes: NW ace central couloir (TD/TD+), NW face (TD-/TD), Gallet ridge (AD+), Jenkins ridge (AD+/D-) and NE face (TD).
North face. Ice/mixed, TD-/TD; 57°; 650m, 4h.
  • Vaucher 62
  • AC West 41d TD-/TD
West side
West flank & SW ridge. Ice/mixed, F; 600m, 4,5h.
  • Biner 226
  • SAC 2 921
  • AC West 41a PD-/PD
East side
Traverse from Col de la Serpentine (East ridge). AD; III; 1000m, 5h.
  • Biner 227
  • SAC 2 932
  • AC West 41b AD-
Col de la Serpentine3547
Pigne d'Arolla3796
Popular snow peak accessible from Arolla. Great panorama and easy normal route make this one of the more popular peaks in Valais Alps, both in summer and as ski mountaineering objective during the winter. Besides the normal route traverse to Mont Blanc de Cheilon is popular outing. North face is classic venue for mid-grade ice routes.
  • AC West 42
  • Biner 228-231
  • Hochtouren 38
ESE flank
Normal route from Cabane des Vignettes. F/E2; 640m, 2h.
  • Biner 228
  • SAC 2 862
  • AC West 43a
West flank
Normal route from Cabane des Dix. F; 3h.
Normal route. via Col dy Brenay.
  • Biner 229
  • SAC 2 865, 895
  • AC West 43b
North face
North face. Ice/mixed, AD+/D-; IV; 300m, 2h for the face; 5h from the hut. 1889-08-05First ascentAlfred G. Topham & Jean Maître, 1889-08-05.
  • Vaucher 46
  • Biner 231 D
  • SAC 2 867 D
  • AC West 43d AD+/D-
Pointes des Vignettes3194

Gelé-Morion group

Mt. Gelé3519
Popular ascent from the Italian side. Not to be confused with the mountain of same name located close to Verbier, some 20km further in the north.

Otemma-Valpeline Frontier ridge

Bec d'Epicoune3529
Classic route follows elegant but not too difficult North ridge (PD, I, 4,5h).
  • Biner 233
  • SAC 2 660
  • AC West 78
Aouille Tseuque3554
  • AC West 82a F+
La Singla3714
Not very prominent peak. Yet, South-North traverse along 1,5km long ridge consisting of four summits and over 30 towers is a classic mid-grade rock route (D/TD-, IV).
  • Biner 234
  • SAC 2 764
  • AC West 90

Mont Collon group

Pointes d'Oren3525
Climbed from Col Collon hut (AD/AD+).
  • AC West 91a
Petit Mont Collon3556
Separate massif located to the west of Mont Collon.
  • Biner 235-236
  • AC West 92
Col de l'Evêque3392
l'Evêque3716
Classic route is SW ridge from Cabane des Vignettes (AD+, IV). East face, accessible from Bouquetins hut, is one of the finest rock walls in Western Valais. Routes graded around TD and between 500m and 600m in length.
  • Biner 237-238
  • Hochtouren 40
  • AC West 93
West side
SW ridge (Traverse). AD+/E3; IV.
  • Biner 238
  • SAC 2 803
  • AC West 93a
Mont Collon3637
Domineering peak of Arolla valley. Most interesting feature for climbers is the 1100m North Face. Also normal route along West ridge is more difficult than most peaks of the region.
1867-07-31
Mont Collon, SE flank and South ridge,
First ascent
SE flank and South ridge: H. Baumann, G. Foster & J. Kronig
1876-08-03
Mont Collon, West Ridge,
First ascent
West Ridge: A. Cust, F. Gardiner, H. & P. Knubel
1895-01-01
Mont Collon, NNE Ridge,
First ascent
NNE Ridge: Naismith & Quinodaz
1895-08-13
Mont Collon, Hopkinson,
First ascent
Hopkinson: Hopkinson, Maitre & Maitre
1923-07-20
Mont Collon, Gracey,
First ascent
Gracey: Gracey, Pralong & Pralong
1989-05-22
Mont Collon, Etoile du Matin,
First ascent
Etoile du Matin: Patrick Gabarrou & P. Gourdin
West side
West Ridge. AD; II; 500m. 1876-08-03First ascentA. Cust, F. Gardiner, H. & P. Knubel, 1876-08-03.
  • AC West 96a
  • Biner 239
  • SAC 2 826
South side
SE flank and South ridge. PD+/AD-. 1867-07-31First ascentH. Baumann, G. Foster & J. Kronig, 1867-07-31.
  • AC West 96b
Sunshine Pillar. Rock, TD; V; 530m, 8h.
  • AC West 96c
Voie de Soleil Levet (Eperon SE, South Spur). Rock, TD; V.
  • Biner 240
  • SAC 2 839
  • Vaucher 86
North face
Vast and complex 1100m glaciated face facing Arolla. Characterized by large rock buttresses. Easiest routes follow the couloirs but they are objectively very serious.
NNE Ridge. AD+; 800m. 1895-01-01First ascentNaismith & Quinodaz, 1895.
  • AC West 96f
Hopkinson (Left-hand Spur with Gracey Start). Ice, D/D+; 1100m, 8-12h. 1895-08-13First ascentHopkinson, Maitre & Maitre, 1895-08-13.
  • AC West 96g
  • Vaucher 79
Etoile du Matin (Central couloir). Ice, ED2; 80°; 1100m. 1989-05-22First ascentPatrick Gabarrou & P. Gourdin, 1989-05-22.
  • AC West 96i
Gracey (Right-hand Spur with Hopkinson Start). Ice, TD-; 1100m, 12-15h. 1923-07-20First ascentGracey, Pralong & Pralong, 1923-07-20.
  • AC West 96j
NW Couloir. Ice/mixed, D+/TD-; 800m.
  • AC West 96k
Col Collon3087
Easy glacier pass connecting Quequetins hut and Col Collon hut. F from the north side, hike from the south side.
  • AC West 97

Col Collon - Theodulpass

Bouquetins - Dents de Perroc group

Monte Brule3585
  • SAC 3 112-119
  • AC West 101
Bouquetins3838
Wild massif with lots of smaller summits and towers. South-North traverse of the whole massif is a long ridge route (D, V-).
  • AC West 136
  • SAC 3 133-158
South-North traverse. Rock, D; V-; 9-13,5h.
Long, magnificent and committing ridge traverse.
  • Biner 327
  • SAC 3 155
  • AC West 102g TD-
Dent de Bertol3547
F+ from Bertol hut
  • SAC 3 159-182
  • AC West 103a, 104a
Aiguille de la Tsa3668
One of the better known peaks in Western Valais and the one with reputedly the best rock climbing around Arolla.
  • AC West 112
Dent de Perroc3675
Good climbs on solid rock on SW face
  • SAC 3 213-228
SW face
WSW ridge. Rock, AD; III; 600m, 3,5h.
  • Biner 338
  • SAC 3 215
  • AC West 117a AD
SW Spur. Rock, D; IV; 460m, 4,5-5h.
  • Biner 339
  • SAC 3 222
  • AC West 117c D
Dents de Veisivi3418
  • SAC 3 229-242
  • AC West 119, 120, 122
traverse of Petite Dent de Veisivi. Rock, AD; IV; 9h.
  • Biner 340
  • SAC 3 238
  • AC West 122a AD-

Grand Cornier group

Col de la Dent Blanche3540
Superb glacier pass between Grand Cornier and Dent Blanche. SAC bivouac hut is located in the col.
  • AC West H37a & b
Grand Cornier3962
1865-06-16
Grand Cornier, East ridge,
First ascent
East ridge: C. ALmer, F. Biner, M. Croz & E. Whymper
1873-07-16
Grand Cornier, NW ridge,
First ascent
NW ridge: T. Bornand & E. Peter
1879-08-18
Grand Cornier, SW ridge,
First ascent
SW ridge: A. Barren, F. Corbett, J & JP. Langen
1932-08-08
Grand Cornier, NE face,
First ascent
NE face: L. Devies & J. Lagarde
NW ridge
NW ridge. III AD-/G6; 3b/III; 1150m. 1873-07-16First ascentT. Bornand & E. Peter, 1873-07-16.
  • AC West 135a
  • Hochtouren #43
SW ridge
SW ridge. III AD/AD+/G7; 3c. 1879-08-18First ascentA. Barren, F. Corbett, J & JP. Langen, 1879-08-18.
Best ridge on the peak.
  • AC West 135c
  • Vaucher 28
NE face
NE face. TD; 550m, 5-6h. 1932-08-08First ascentL. Devies & J. Lagarde, 1932-08-08.
  • AC West 135e
East ridge
East ridge. III AD; 3b; 1100m, 6-8h. 1865-06-16First ascentC. ALmer, F. Biner, M. Croz & E. Whymper, 1865-06-16.
  • AC West 135b

Dent Blanche group

Tête Blanche3724
  • AC West 143
  • SAC 3 249-251
Col d'Hérens3462
  • AC West 144
  • SAC 3 252-256
Wandflühorn3589
Rock climbs on 500m south face between D+ and ED.
Dent Blanche4356

One of the big mountains in Pennine Alps. Massive pyramid with four main ridges, each one of them a classic ascent. East and South faces consist of steep broken rock. North (NE) and West (NW) faces in turn offer superb technical ice and mixed climbs.

Access is usually from Bouquetins (SW) or from Bertol, Mountet or Schönbiel huts.

1862-07-18
Dent Blanche, Wandlügrat,
First ascent
Wandlügrat: Thomas Stuart Kennedy, William Wigram, Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johan Konig
1882-08-11
Dent Blanche, Viereselgrat,
First ascent
Viereselgrat: Ulrich Almer, A. Pollinger, J.Stafford Anderson & G.P.Baker
1899-07-29
Dent Blanche, Ferpèclegrat,
First ascent
Ferpèclegrat: A Pollinger & W.Gröbli
1928-07-20
Dent Blanche, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: A. & Georges, D Pilley & I. Richards
1932-08-27
Dent Blanche, Original,
First ascent
Original: K.Schneider & F.Singer
1996-07-12
Dent Blanche, Vaucher,
First ascent
Vaucher: Michel & Yvette Vaucher
South Ridge
Wandlügrat (S Ridge). IV AD/G5; III, 35°; 850m, 3-6h from Dent Blache hut. 1862-07-18First ascentThomas Stuart Kennedy, William Wigram, Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johan Konig, 1862-07-18.
Normal route. The easiest and most popular route, both in ascent and in descent. From hut to Wandfluelücke (3703m). Through couloir to South Ridge. Grand Gendarme is turned on the left via Couloir de la Mort (direct IV+). Further along firn ridge to the summit. Descent to Ferpècle (5h).
  • Biner 350
  • SAC 3 274,275
  • Goedeke pp 117
  • AC West 146a
  • Moran 32a
  • Hochtouren 41
  • Vaucher 56
East Ridge
Viereselgrat (East (ENE) Ridge, quatre ânes, Mountetgrat). IV D; III+ and III; 1500m, 11-15h from Mountet hut. 1882-08-11First ascentUlrich Almer, A. Pollinger, J.Stafford Anderson & G.P.Baker, 1882-08-11.
Long exposed and serious climb rising from Grand Cornier glacier. Poor rock. Routes coming from Mountet and Schönbiel huts join above P. 3975.
  • Biner 351
  • SAC 3 291,292
  • AC West 146b
  • Moran 32c
  • Vaucher 81
Ferpéclegrat (West Ridge)
Ferpèclegrat (West Ridge). D+/E5; IV+, IV and III; 850m, 7h. 1899-07-29First ascentA Pollinger & W.Gröbli, 1899-07-29.
Most difficult of the three main routes. Dry rock is required on the steeper passages. Dries slowly.
  • Biner 354
  • SAC 3 280
  • AC West 146o
  • Moran 32b
  • Vaucher 68
NE Face
One of the great alpine mixed faces. Rarely climbed despite the fact that due to high altitude reasonable conditions can often be found even in the middle of summer.
  • Bivouac Dent Blanche (3540m) in Col de la Dent Blanche
Original. TD+/ED1; V/V+; 950m, 12-15h from Bivouac Dent Blanche. 1932-08-27First ascentK.Schneider & F.Singer, 1932-08-27.
Mixed line on NW Face, joins Ferpeclegrat below the summit. Most logical line on the face, maximizes the ice part.
  • AC West 146c
  • Vaucher 99
Vaucher. ED1/2; V/V+; 950m, 12-15h from Bivouac Dent Blanche. 1996-07-12First ascentMichel & Yvette Vaucher, 1996-07-12.
Straighter and more difficult line than the original (TD) route of NNE Face. Mixed on mostly ice/snow.
  • SAC 3 288
  • AC West 146d
North Ridge
Shortest and most difficult of four main ridges.
  • Bivouac Dent Blanche (3540m) in Col de la Dent Blanche
North Ridge (NNW Ridge). TD-/TD; V+; 950m, 12-15h. 1928-07-20First ascentA. & Georges, D Pilley & I. Richards, 1928-07-20.
More difficult and less popular than other three ridges.
  • AC West 146f
  • Vaucher 87
NW Face
800m, TD-ED1/2. Safety requires rock to be frozen solid.
  • Bivouac Dent Blanche (3540m) in Col de la Dent Blanche
Col de Zinal
Pointe de Zinal3789
Schönbielhorn3472
Col Durand3451
Col between Mont Durand and Pointe de Zinal. Used to access Grand Mountet hut from Schönbielhütte.
South side
South side. Glacier, F.
North side
North side. Glacier, PD.

Dent d'Hérens group

Col de Valpelline3568
  • AC West 151
Tête Valpelline3802
  • AC West 152
Tiefmattenjoch
Dent d'Hérens4171
Beautiful and complex mountain neighbouring Matterhorn and connected to it with sharp arete of East Ridge. Four main ridges and and big north face. North face is one of Welzenbach's most famous ice climbs and considered more difficult than Matterhorn north face. Rock is generally poor everywhere.
1863-08-12
Dent d'Hérens, SW side & West Ridge,
First ascent
SW side & West Ridge: F.Crauford Grave, W.E. Hall, R.S.MacDonald, W.Woodmans, Melchior Anderegg, peter Perren & Jean Pierre Cochat via West Ridge.
1906-07-30
Dent d'Hérens, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: Franz & Joseph Lochmatter & V.J.E.Ryan
1910-08-18
Dent d'Hérens, WNW Face,
First ascent
WNW Face: M. Heywood, K. Knubel & G. Withrop Young
1925-08-10
Dent d'Hérens, Welzenbach,
First ascent
Welzenbach: Willo Welzenbach & Eugen Allwein
1981-08-16
Dent d'Hérens, Gabarrou,
First ascent
Gabarrou: Patrick Gabarrou & Romain Vogler
SW side
SW side & West Ridge. PD+/AD-/G4; I-II; 600m, 3h from Tiefenmattenjoch, 1400m, 5-6h from Aosta hut. 1863-08-12First ascentF.Crauford Grave, W.E. Hall, R.S.MacDonald, W.Woodmans, Melchior Anderegg, peter Perren & Jean Pierre Cochat via West Ridge., 1863-08-12.
Normal route. Long glacier tour via Glacier des Grandes Murailles and Tiefenmattenjoch.
  • Biner 346
  • SAC 3 1061
  • Goedeke pp 169
  • AC West 154a
  • Moran 31a
Tiefmattengrat (West Ridge). III AD-; 3b.
  • AC West 154b
  • Moran 31b
  • Hochtouren 58
  • Vaucher 31
East Ridge
Steep mixed arete connecting Dent d'Hérens with Matterhorn. Lowest point on the ridge is Colle Tournenche (3479m).
  • From Benedetti bivouac hut (3490m) to Col Tournauche
East Ridge. D/G9; IV and III; 700m, climbing distance 2km, 8-10h from Col Tournauche. 1906-07-30First ascentFranz & Joseph Lochmatter & V.J.E.Ryan, 1906-07-30.
Atrrocious rock.
  • Biner 347
  • SAC 3 1070
  • AC West 154f
  • Moran 31e
  • Vaucher 85
West side
WNW Face. Snow/ice, AD/D/G6; III, 50°; 1500m, 6-9h. 1910-08-18First ascentM. Heywood, K. Knubel & G. Withrop Young, 1910-08-18.
Normal route. Narrow triangular snow face providing sustained snow/ice climb. Best line varies from year to year depending crevasses and seracs.Normal route from Schönbiel hütte.
  • Biner 345
  • SAC 3 1106
  • AC West 154c
  • Moran 31d
Gabarrou. D/TD-; 75°; 750m, 6-8h. 1981-08-16First ascentPatrick Gabarrou & Romain Vogler, 1981-08-16.
Lower part follows ice strips trough the rocky section, then joins WNW Face for the upper part.
  • SAC 3 1064
  • AC West 154d
North Face
Difficult mixed face divided into two steps by large snow shelf at 3/5 height.
  • From Bivacco Giorgio e Renzo Novella on Punta Maria Christina (3706m)
Welzenbach. TD+/G13; 90°, IV; 1300m, 10-15h. 1925-08-10First ascentWillo Welzenbach & Eugen Allwein, 1925-08-10.
One of Welzenbach's most famous ice climbs. More difficult than Schmid route on Matterhorn north face, Seracs, difficult rock in the upper part.
Matterhorn (Monte Cervino)4478

Majestic peak in Swiss/Italian Border consisting of four ridges and four faces.

There have been well over 400 deaths on the mountain, most of them occurring on the easiest Hörnligrat through stonefall.

1900-01-01
Matterhorn, ,
Event
Piacenza, Carrell and Gaspard Walter Bonatti & Roberto Bingnami
1900-01-01
Matterhorn, ,
Event
Franz and Toni Schmid Dieter Marchart Allmen & Etter Yvette Vaucher
1859-01-01
Matterhorn, ,
Attemp
First attemp to climb the mountain was made solo by guide Jean Antoine Carrel (Bersaghliére from Valtournanche).
1865-07-14
Matterhorn, Hörnligrat,
First ascent
Hörnligrat: The party consisting of Edward Whymper (England), Peter Taugwalder (father), Peter Taugwalder (son), Charles Hudson (killed during descent), Francis Douglas (killed during descent), Douglas Hadow (killed during descent) and Michel Croz (killed during descent) (via Hörnligrat) won the race over Matterhorn against Carrel (via Liongrat). During the descent Hadow slipped pulling Croz off and Douglas and Hudson followed. Whymper and Peter Taugwalder Sr. hung on the same rope, but the rope snapped and the four men fell to their deaths. Whymper's book "Scrambles Amongst the Alps - The Day the Rope Broke" by R.W. Clark recount the dramatic first ascent.
1865-07-17
Matterhorn, Liongrat,
First ascent
Liongrat: J.A. Carrel and J.B. Bic
1879-09-03
Matterhorn, Zmuttgrat,
First ascent
Zmuttgrat: Albert Frederick Mummery, Alexander Burgener, A. Gentinetta and Johann Petrus. Mummery's book "My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus" recounts the first ascent.
1962-08-13
Matterhorn, West Face,
First ascent
West Face: Giovanni Ottin and Renato Daugin were the first to climb the whole west face to the top of Matterhorn without crossing to the Zmutt ridge
1965-02-22
Matterhorn, Bonatti Direct,
First ascent
Bonatti Direct: Walter Bonatti
1969-07-17
Matterhorn, Zmuttnase,
First ascent
Zmuttnase: L.Cerrutti & A.Cogna
1981-08-01
Matterhorn, Piola-Steiner Direttissima,
First ascent
Piola-Steiner Direttissima: Piola & Steiner.
  • World Mountaineering pp 50
  • Clark R.W.: Scrambles Amongst the Alps - The Day the Rope Broke.
East Face
Rarely climbed face above Furggen glacier.
  • From Hörnlihütte (3260m). Access from Zermatt or from Schwarzee lift station. Solvay hut is located at 4003m along the Hörnligrat. Access to Furggengrat from Boiwak Bossi (3300m) in Breuljoch.
Hörnligrat (NE Ridge). III AD-/G5/E4/NZ3+/4/nccs III; III,A0/3a; 1200m, climbing distance 1700m, 5-6h from Hörnlihut (3260m). 1865-07-14First ascentThe party consisting of Edward Whymper (England), Peter Taugwalder (father), Peter Taugwalder (son), Charles Hudson (killed during descent), Francis Douglas (killed during descent), Douglas Hadow (killed during descent) and Michel Croz (killed during descent) (via Hörnligrat) won the race over Matterhorn against Carrel (via Liongrat). During the descent Hadow slipped pulling Croz off and Douglas and Hudson followed. Whymper and Peter Taugwalder Sr. hung on the same rope, but the rope snapped and the four men fell to their deaths. Whymper's book "Scrambles Amongst the Alps - The Day the Rope Broke" by R.W. Clark recount the dramatic first ascent., 1865-07-14.
Normal route. First ascent route and by far the most popular route on Matterhorn. Very famous and popular, crowded during the season. There are fixed ropes along the route. Using them difficulty is III-, A0, mostly II (sustained). IV+ if climbed free. Summit slopes mixed.
  • Biner 341,342
  • SAC 3 1106,1107
  • Goedeke pp 162
  • AC West 173a
  • Moran 30a
  • Hochtouren 60
  • Vaucher 48
East face
East Face Direct. TD; 1000m, 15h.
  • AC West 173b
Furggengrat (SE Ridge)
Furggengrat (SE Ridge). D/TD-/G12?; IV+ (direct variant VI); 1150m, 8-12h. 1911-09-09First ascentPiacenza, Carrell and Gaspard, 1911-09-09.
Most technical and least climbed of the ridges. Also probably most dangerous due to unstable rock. On good conditions entirely on rock.
  • SAC 3 1108
  • AC West 173c
  • Vaucher 92
North Face
Schmid. TD/ED1/G12; IV+/V, M5 AI1-2/55°; 1100m, 10-12h. 1931-08-01First ascentFranz and Toni Schmid, 1931-08-01.
Classic. One of the four classic north faces in the Alps. Steep ice with IV and V on rock. Unstable rock. Starting point Hörnli hut.
  • AC West 17k
  • Vaucher 89
Bonatti Direct (Direct Solo). Mixed, ED2/3; VI+,A1. 1965-02-22First ascentWalter Bonatti, 1965-02-22.
  • AC West 173l
Zmuttnase. ED+/G16; VI+,A3, AI1/50°; 1218m, 2-3 days. 1969-07-17First ascentL.Cerrutti & A.Cogna, 1969-07-17.
  • AC West 173m
  • Vaucher 100
Piola-Steiner Direttissima. ED+; 90-°/M5, 6b/b+,A0; 1000m. 1981-08-01First ascentPiola & Steiner., 1981-08-01.
  • AC West 173n
South Face
Liongrat (South-West Ridge, Italian Ridge). III AD/D/G6/Rus 4A/B; III,A0/IV; 650m/1680m, 5h from Carrell hut to summit. 1865-07-17First ascentJ.A. Carrel and J.B. Bic, 1865-07-17.
Classic route, often used in descent. Less crowded than Hörnligrat.
  • Biner 344
  • SAC 3 1110,1111
  • Goedeke pp 162
  • AC West 173i
  • Moran 30b
  • Hochtouren 59
  • Vaucher 49
West Face
Highest face on the Matterhorn.
  • From Schönbielhütte (2694m, 2,5 h from ski lift Schwarzsee, 4h from Zertmatt). Zmuttgrat possible from Hörnlihütte (AD+, 2h, #1114 in Walliser Alpen Band 3) or from Schönbielhütte (2694m).
Zmuttgrat (NW Ridge). D/G9; 3c/IV and III, 50°; 1200m, 7-9h from Hörnlihut. 1879-09-03First ascentAlbert Frederick Mummery, Alexander Burgener, A. Gentinetta and Johann Petrus. Mummery's book "My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus" recounts the first ascent., 1879-09-03.
Good classic ridge with no fixed gear, one of the greatest mixed climbs in the Alps. Much more committing than Hörnli or Lion ridges. Seldom in condition. Either from Hörnlihütte or from Schönbielhütte.
  • Biner 343
  • SAC 3 1113
  • AC West 173j
  • Moran 30c
  • Vaucher 74
  • Mummery Albert Frederick: My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.
West Face. 1962-08-13First ascentGiovanni Ottin and Renato Daugin were the first to climb the whole west face to the top of Matterhorn without crossing to the Zmutt ridge, 1962-08-13.

Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weishorn - Bishorn

Mont Durand3713
Arbenjoch3570
Access to Arbengrat of Obergabelhorn.
  • SAC 3 553, 554
Obergabelhorn4062
One of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps. Zermatt side is almost completely rock while Zinal (north) side is icy. Four major ridges and beautiful icy north face. Although lower than neighbouring Dent Blanche and Matterhorn, the quality of climbs is excellent.
1865-01-01
Obergabelhorn, ,
First ascent
Jakob Anderegg, A.W.Moore & Horace Walker from the Gabelhorn glacier.
1865-07-07
Obergabelhorn, Coeurgrat,
First ascent
Coeurgrat: Lord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder & Josef Vienin
1874-08-23
Obergabelhorn, Arbengrat,
First ascent
Arbengrat: H.Seymour Haase, E.Hulton, Johan von Bergen, J.Moser & Peter Rubi
1887-09-03
Obergabelhorn, Gabelhorngrat,
First ascent
Gabelhorngrat: Edward Davidson, J.W.Hartley, Johan Jaun & Peter Rubi
1890-08-01
Obergabelhorn, ENE Ridge from Wellenkuppe,
First ascent
ENE Ridge from Wellenkuppe: L. Norman-Neruda & Christian Klucker
1892-09-28
Obergabelhorn, South Face,
First ascent
South Face: David Magouignaz & J.P. Fonran
1930-07-30
Obergabelhorn, North Face,
First ascent
North Face: Hans Kiener & Rudolf Schwarzgruber
North face of Obergabelhorn rises some 500m above the glaciers below with the average angle of 55° between NNW Ridge (Coeurgrat) and NNE Ridge (from Wellenkuppe). It is one of the classic ice faces of the Pennine Alps, both steeper and more difficult than NNE Face of Lenzspitze.
  • Mountet hut (2886m). Approach along Coeurgrat route
Coeurgrat (NNW Ridge). Mixed, IV AD; 3c/III, 50°; 6h from Mountet hut (2886m). 1865-07-07First ascentLord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder & Josef Vienin, 1865-07-07.
From glacier Durand and NNW ridge. Mixed with loose rock, not recommended in descent.
  • Biner 361
  • SAC 3 546
  • AC East 3d AD
  • Moran 33b
North Face. Ice, III-IV D+/TD-; IV/AI2 M2/55°, III; 500m, 2,5-4h; 1250m from from Mountet hut. 1930-07-30First ascentHans Kiener & Rudolf Schwarzgruber, 1930-07-30.
Classic. One of the nicest ice faces in Pennine Alps. From Mountet hut head southeast across the Glacier de Mountet to the base of the North Couloir. Follow the Couloir up to the base of the face, pass the bergschrund and climb the face (500m, average angle 55°). Last 100m are significantly steeper, but the route avoids it (TD, loose rock). Also possible from Rothorn hut (3198m).
  • Biner 362
  • SAC 3 548
  • Waeber 439
  • AC East 3e TD-
  • Moran 33c
  • Hochtouren 55
  • Vaucher 84
East side
ENE Ridge from Wellenkuppe. III AD; 4a/3c,A0/III,A0, 50°; 850m, 5-6h from Rothorn Hut. 1890-08-01First ascentL. Norman-Neruda & Christian Klucker, 1890-08-01.
Normal route. Most popular route, mostly on snow and ice. From Rothorn hut at first to Wellenkuppe (PD, II+, 2,5h) and further traverse to the summit (another 1,5-2,5h). The most difficult part is passing the Grand Gendarme (3870m) between Wellenkuppe and Obergabelhorn (III,A0).
  • Biner 360
  • SAC 3 568
  • Goedeke pp 115
  • AC East 3a AD
  • Moran 33a
  • Hochtouren 55
Wellenkuppe3903
East side
East flank and ENE Ridge. PD; II+; 2,5h.
  • AC East 3a PD
  • Hochtouren 55
  • SAC 3 568
NE side
NE side. Ice, D; 3h from Rothornhütte.
  • SAC 3 574
Le Besso3668
NW side
NW rinne. Ice, TD+; 80°; 4-6h.
  • SAC 3 632.3
Triftjoch3527
Trifthorn3728
Col du Mountet3658
Pointe du Mountet3877
Oberer Rothornjoch3835
Zinalrothorn4221
Often abbreviated to Rothorn. One of the most popular climbing peaks around Zermatt and Zinal. Has three major ridges (north, south and SE), all of which are worthwhile climbs. Rock is mostly good gneiss.
1864-08-22
Zinalrothorn, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: L. Stephen, F. Grove, J. & M. Anderegg
1872-09-05
Zinalrothorn, SE Ridge and Gabel notch,
First ascent
SE Ridge and Gabel notch: Alexander Burgener, Ferdinand Imseg, Franz Andermatten, Clinton T. Dent & G.A Passingham
1901-09-16
Zinalrothorn, Rothorngrat,
First ascent
Rothorngrat: C.R.Gross & R.Taugwalder
1928-09-05
Zinalrothorn, Kanzelgrat,
First ascent
Kanzelgrat: E.R.Blanchet & Kaspar Mooser
1945-08-06
Zinalrothorn, East Face Direct,
First ascent
East Face Direct: André Roch, Rober Gréloz & Ruedi Schmidt
South Side
Rothorngrat (SW Ridge Integral). III AD+/D/E4/G8; 4c/IV and III+; 370m, 3-4h from Oberrotjoch. 1100m, 7h from Rothorn hut. 1901-09-16First ascentC.R.Gross & R.Taugwalder, 1901-09-16.
One of the finest ridge climbs in the Alps. Excellent rock.
  • Biner 369
  • SAC 3 596
  • AC East 6b AD+
  • Moran 34c
  • Vaucher 53
SE Ridge and Gabel notch. III AD-/AD; 3b/III-, mostly II and I; 1050m, 4-5h from Rothorn hut. 1872-09-05First ascentAlexander Burgener, Ferdinand Imseg, Franz Andermatten, Clinton T. Dent & G.A Passingham, 1872-09-05.
Normal route. Exposed rock climbing III-, mostly II and I.
  • Biner 367
  • AC East 6a AD
  • SAC 3 594
  • Goedeke pp 111
  • Moran 34a
  • Hochtouren 53
  • Vaucher 23
Kanzelgrat (Complete SE Ridge). TD-/G10; V and IV+; 4-5h. 1928-09-05First ascentE.R.Blanchet & Kaspar Mooser, 1928-09-05.
More difficult and direct finish to normal route.
  • AC East 6e D
  • Moran 34d
  • Hochtouren 54
  • Vaucher 71
East Face
800m high
East Face Direct. TD; V+; 800m, 8h (face only). 1945-08-06First ascentAndré Roch, Rober Gréloz & Ruedi Schmidt, 1945-08-06.
Loose rock.
  • AC East 6d TD
North Ridge
North Ridge. III AD/G7; 3b/III/III+ and II; 1400m from Mountet hut. 1864-08-22First ascentL. Stephen, F. Grove, J. & M. Anderegg, 1864-08-22.
From Mountet hut via Mountet glacier.
  • Biner 368
  • SAC 3 589
  • AC East 6c AD
  • Moran 34b
  • Hochtouren 52
Pointe S de Moming3963
Col de Moming3777
Pointe N de Moming3863
Hochliftpass3731
Schalihorn3975
Schalijoch3750
Starting point of Schalihorn of Weisshorn. Schali bivouac hut is located just above the col.
  • SAC 3 657, 658, 659
Weisshorn4506
Classically beautiful symmetrical mountain with three sharp main ridges and faces. NE face is covered in snow and ice, the rest of the mountain is predominantly rocky. All ascents are long mixed routes only suitable for experienced mountaineers. East ridge is the easiest route, both in ascent and descent. Also Northeast face has several possible ice/snow routes. These are however endangered by ice fall (NE rib least so).
1900-01-01
Weisshorn, ,
Event
(original route) by Kitson, Ch. & U. Almer G.W.Young, Oliver Perry Smith & Jos Knubel (Nowadays used variation)
1861-08-19
Weisshorn, East Ridge,
First ascent
East Ridge: John Tyndall and guides J. J. Bennen and U. Wenger
1895-09-02
Weisshorn, Schaligrat,
First ascent
Schaligrat: Joseph Biner, Ambros Imboden and Edward Broome.
1898-09-21
Weisshorn, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: H. Biehly and H. Burgener
1900-09-07
Weisshorn, Youngrat,
First ascent
Youngrat: Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Benoít & Louis Theytaz
1980-09-16
Weisshorn, NE Face direct,
First ascent
NE Face direct: Henri Rouguette, Patrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner
1983-07-17
Weisshorn, East Face of North-east Buttress,
First ascent
East Face of North-east Buttress: Giuseppe Bonfanti & Renzo Quagliotto
East Ridge
East Ridge. III AD/G5; III- (places), mostly II and I, 45°; 1600m, 6-7h from Weisshorn hut. 1861-08-19First ascentJohn Tyndall and guides J. J. Bennen and U. Wenger, 1861-08-19.
Normal route. The climb must be started from the valley (Randa 1407m), altogether 3100m of ascent. The easiest route on the mountain and most popular both in ascent and in descent. When there's a lot of snow, the rocky section of the ridge may be tricky. In that it might be possible to avoid it by downclimbing or rappelling down the eastern part of NE face.
  • Biner 376
  • SAC 3 672
  • Goedeke pp 107
  • AC East 12a AD
  • Moran 35a
  • Hochtouren 50
NE Face
Face framed with East and NNW ridges and almost completely covered and ice. Routes are around 1000m high. Divided in two by NE spur which is also the route most sheltered from ice avalanches.
NE Rib (NE Buttress). Ice, IV D; 48°; 1000m, 7-10h from Weisshorn hut. 1871-01-01First ascent(original route) by Kitson, Ch. & U. Almer, 1871.1909-08-31First ascentG.W.Young, Oliver Perry Smith & Jos Knubel (Nowadays used variation), 1909-08-31.
Classic. Classic ice route.
  • AC East 12e TD
East Face of North-east Buttress. Ice, D+/TD; 58°; 1000m, 6-8h. 1983-07-17First ascentGiuseppe Bonfanti & Renzo Quagliotto, 1983-07-17.
Somewhat steeper than NE Buttress and has some mixed climbing in the lower part. Joins NE Buttress for the upper part. Only lower part has some objective danger.
  • AC East 12f TD
  • SAC 3 687 D+
NE Face direct. Ice, D+/TD; 55°; 1000m. 1980-09-16First ascentHenri Rouguette, Patrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1980-09-16.
Climbs the serac direct (crux). If the seracs are avoided, the rest of the face is 55 degrees steep and D-.
  • AC East 12g D+/TD 55
  • SAC 3 688 D-
South Ridge
Schaligrat (South West Ridge, South Ridge). Rock, IV D+/E5; IV/4g, 45°; 750m, 5-7h from Schali bivouac. 1895-09-02First ascentJoseph Biner, Ambros Imboden and Edward Broome., 1895-09-02.
Classic. Elegant rock route, reputable the finest route on Weisshorn.
  • Biner 378
  • SAC 3 676
  • AC East 12b D
  • Moran 35d
North Ridge
North Ridge (NNW-Grat). AD+; III+, 45°; 450m from Weisshornjoch, 8h from Cabane de Tracuit. 1898-09-21First ascentH. Biehly and H. Burgener, 1898-09-21.
  • Biner 377
  • SAC 3 683
  • AC East 12d AD+
  • Moran 35b
  • Hochtouren 49
West face
There are several other routes on the face graded at D or TD.
  • d'Ar Pitetta (2786m)
Youngrat (Young Rib on West Face). AD+/D-; 5a/4b,A0/IV; 6-8h from d'Ar Pitetta. 1900-09-07First ascentGeoffrey Winthrop Young, Benoít & Louis Theytaz, 1900-09-07.
Most logical line on the face leading tho great gendarme on the North Ridge.
  • AC East 12e D-
  • Moran 35c
  • Vaucher 77
Bishorn4153
Northernmost 4000 peak on the west side of Mattertal, located north of Weisshorn. Not very independent summit. Normal route is easy, but long approach keeps the number of peak baggers at bay compared to Breithorn.
1884-08-18
Bishorn, NW flank,
First ascent
NW flank: Joseph Imboden, J.M.Chantan, G.S.Barnes & R.Chessyre-Walker
1924-09-21
Bishorn, NE Face,
First ascent
NE Face: Emile Robert Blanchet, Kaspar Mooser & Raphael Lochmatter
NW flank (NW face)
NW flank. II F/G1-2; I on the summit ridge; 930mm, 2-3h from Tracuit hut. 1884-08-18First ascentJoseph Imboden, J.M.Chantan, G.S.Barnes & R.Chessyre-Walker, 1884-08-18.
  • Biner 379
  • SAC 3 690
  • Goedeke pp 105
  • AC East 13a F
  • Moran 36a
  • Hochtouren 47
NE Face
NE Face (via Olympia). D/G10; 50-58°, IV; 650m. 1924-09-21First ascentEmile Robert Blanchet, Kaspar Mooser & Raphael Lochmatter, 1924-09-21.
  • Biner 380
  • SAC 3 693
  • AC East 13b D
  • Moran 36c
  • Hochtouren 46
  • Vaucher 67
Brunegghorn3833
  • Hochtouren 44
  • Hochtouren 45
NNE Flank
NNE Flank. Ice, TD; 56-58°; 250m, 4-5 from the hut.
  • SAC 3 710
  • AC East 116c

Theodulpass - Monte Moro (Monte Rosa)

Breithorn - Lyskamm

Theodulpass3301
Ski lift system aside, the easiest point to cross Frontier ridge between Grand St. Bernhard pass and Monte Moropass. F from both sides. Theodule hut is located just above the pass.
  • AC East 21
  • SAC 4/5 101
Breithornpass3824
Between Gobba di Rollin and Breithorn.
  • SAC 4/5 104-106
Klein Matterhorn3883
Minor peak very easily accessible from Zermatt with a ski lift which serves as a starting point for Breithorn.
North ridge
North ridge. Mixed, AD; 50°, 3a/III; 860m, 6h. 1904-07-24First ascentB. Neuhaus, A. & O. Supersaxo, 1904-07-24.
  • Hochtouren 70
  • AC East 22a
  • Vaucher 22
  • SAC 4/5 107
Breithorn4164
  • West summit (4164m)
  • Central summit (4159m)
  • Selle (Breithorn Sattel) (4022m)
  • East summit (4139m)
  • Gendarme 4106 (4106m)
  • Roccia Nera (Schwarzfluh) (4075m)
Most accessible 4000m peak around Zermatt. Normal route is short from Klein Matterhorn lift station and non-technical, considered the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps and correspondingly popular. For those seeking more demanding challenge, Traverse of the Crest is a classic both in its in entity and as half traverse. On the vast north side, Tritfjigrat and Younggrat offer mixed climbs along the ridges at around D whereas face routes are big ice and mixed faces around 1000m high and TD or more in difficulty. Some of these are objectively dangerous, Original and Welzenbach routes probably least so.
1869-09-15
Breithorn, Triftjigrat,
First ascent
Triftjigrat: R. Fowler, P. Knubel & G. Ruppen
1888-07-27
Breithorn, NW and SW flanks,
First ascent
NW and SW flanks: G. Pothero & G. Taugwalder
1906-08-18
Breithorn, Younggrat,
First ascent
Younggrat: Knubel, Mayor, Robertson, Rubben & Young
1919-10-03
Breithorn, Original,
First ascent
Original: Dietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otmar Supersaxo
1926-08-01
Breithorn, Welzenbach,
First ascent
Welzenbach: Bachschmidt, Rigde & Welzenbach
1954-07-21
Breithorn, Vanis,
First ascent
Vanis: Erich Vanis, Leo Graf & Klaus Kubiena
1960-07-29
Breithorn, Vanis (variant italiana),
First ascent
Vanis (variant italiana): Cavallieri, Mellano & Perego
1979-09-29
Breithorn, Bethermin-Gabarrou,
First ascent
Bethermin-Gabarrou: M. Bethermin & Patrick Gabarrou
1987-01-01
Breithorn, NNW Flank of East Summit,
First ascent
NNW Flank of East Summit: Almer, Ascherson, Jossi, Kaufmann & Mothersill
West summit, North side
2,5km wide and 1100m high north face has an average angle of 51°. It is a complex face with both rock and ice features. There are host of routes, of which Triftjigrat, Younggrat and Bethmann-Hollweg/Supersaxo (with its different variations) are considered classics. Some of the routes are threatened by ice fall.
NW and SW flanks. Glacier, AD; 1300m, 5h from Gandegghütte. 1888-07-27First ascentG. Pothero & G. Taugwalder, 1888-07-27.
  • Moran 29b AD 1300m, 5h from Gandegghütte
  • AC East 23b AD
  • SAC 4 133 AD
Original (Bethmann-Hollweg/Supersaxo, NNW Flank of West Summit). Ice/mixed, TD; 4a/IV or III (depending on variation and conditions), 60-70°; 1100m, 5-8h (face). 1919-10-03First ascentDietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otmar Supersaxo, 1919-10-03.
Pass the lower bergschrund immediately to the right of prominent rocks. Climb the ice to the right of rocks, then pass the rock band to gain the ice spur to the left of the rocks by climbing through the rock couloir below prominent ice ramp (mixed up to IV) to gain firn spur below second bergschrund ~3650m). Alternative start is to follow the direct variant by climbing immediately above bergschrund diagonally to the left over mixed terrain to get to the ice on the left of the rocky part (depending of the conditions up to 70° and IV). Then over the bergschrund and through ice field (60°) to gain summit rocks (III) and lower angled snow field above (45°).
  • Biner 420
  • SAC 4 139 TD
  • Moran 29g D+ 1420m, 6-8h
  • AC East 23c TD
  • SAC 4/5 110
Welzenbach (NNW Flank). Ice/mixed, TD; 60°; 1100m, 5-8h (face). 1926-08-01First ascentBachschmidt, Rigde & Welzenbach, 1926-08-01.
Pass the lower bergschrund immediately to the right of prominent rocks. Climb the ice to the right of rocks to gain the prominent ice ramp (mixed up to 55-60°) to gain firn spur below second bergschrund ~3650m). Then over the bergschrund and through ice field (60°) to gain summit rocks (III) and lower angled snow field above (45°).Crux is the left-slanting couloir leaving lower ice field.
Bethermin-Gabarrou. Ice/mixed, TD-/TD; 1100m, 8-9h (face). 1979-09-29First ascentM. Bethermin & Patrick Gabarrou, 1979-09-29.
Direct line up the face. Serious due to seracs.
  • AC East 23d
Triftjigrat (North Ridge). Mixed/ice, IV D; 3a/III and II, 55°; 1150m, 8h from Gandegg hut. 1869-09-15First ascentR. Fowler, P. Knubel & G. Ruppen, 1869-09-15.
Classic. Classic large scale mixed/ice ridge, easier alternative to NW face. From Gandegghütte to Triftjisattel (3250m, 2-2,5h). From there to Triftjiplateau (3750, 2-2,5h) and further through ice/snow slopes (55°) to rock barrier (III) and finally along easier angled snow slopes to the summit (2,5-3h from Triftjiplateau).
  • Biner 421
  • SAC 4 141
  • Moran 29f D- 1420m, 6-8h
  • AC East 23e D
  • Vaucher 52
  • SAC 4/5 111
West summit, SW side
SW flank. Glacier, F/PD-/G1; 35°; 350m, 1-2h.
Normal route. Reputably the easiest route on a 4000m peak in the Alps. Very popular, possibly the busiest in the Alps. From the station of Klein Matterhorn lift (3883m). Glacier ascent, few crevasses. Traverse to middle summit is easy ridge traverse (F/PD).
  • Moran 29a F
  • AC East 23a F
  • SAC 4 129 F
  • Hochtouren 71
  • SAC 4/5 108
West Summit from Plateau Rosa. Glacier, F; 3h.
Slightly less crowded alternative to the normal route. From Klein Matterhorn to Plateau Rosa (3820m) and further to West summit.
  • SAC 4/5 109
Traverse of Breithorn Crest W-E. Rock/mixed, III AD/AD+; 45-50°, IV.
Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)). From Klein Matterhorn to Rossi e Volante bivouac hut or to Val d' Ayas hut. This can serve as a more demanding start to traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. This is probably also around AD+. There are no equipped rappels (most part of the route can be downclimbed).
  • SAC 4 193 AD+
  • Vaucher 39
Central summit, North side
Several routes starting from Breithornglacier between grades D+ and TD+
  • Gandegghütte via Theodulsgletscher (2860m)
  • SAC 4 150-155
  • AC East 23g-k
Central summit, South side
150m high SE face is mostly rocky with some ice/snow couloirs and routes between AD and D. SW face from Plateau Rosa is much easier at PD.
  • From Klein Matterhorn lift station (3820m)
  • SAC 4 144,156-161
  • AC East 23f
Central Summit from Plateau Rosa and traverse to West summit (SSW Spur). Glacier, PD; 35-40°; 450m, 4h roundtrip from Klein Matterhorn.
From Klein Matterhorn to Plateau Rosa (3820m) and further to Central summit.
  • Moran 29b PD
  • AC East 23f PD
  • SAC 4 161 (144) PD
East summit, North side
650m high face rising from Breithorn glacier. Most popular route of the face is classic Younggrat falling from east summit to Chli triftjisattel (3498m).
  • SAC 4 166-171
Younggrat (N-Grat des E-Gipfels, Chli Triftji, North Ridge of West Twin, Cresta Young). Mixed, IV TD; 4a/IV/5.4, 55°; 640m from Chli Triftjisattel; 1450m, 8-9h from Gandegg hut; 750m, 6-7,5h from Rossi e Volante bivouac hut. Traverse to West summit additional 3-3,5h. 1906-08-18First ascentKnubel, Mayor, Robertson, Rubben & Young, 1906-08-18.
Classic. Prominent ridge falling from east summit to Chli Triftjisattel (3498m). Main difficulties are found on last 300m. Route is mainly on ice/snow, but main difficulties are on mixed ground and rock. Approach to Chli Triftjisattel either from Gandegghütte via Triftjisattel and Breithorn glacier (3,5-4h) or Rossi e Volante bivouac via Schwarztor (1,5-2h). from Chli Triftjisattel at first along elegant snow ridge to P 3835 either oin the ridge and on its right side, then along rockier ridge (or below it on the left side) to Grand Gerdarme (3920m). Gendarme is climbed either directly (30m, 4a, pitons) or turned on the left side (III, exposed). Above Grand gendarme another tower is climbed to gain another snow ridge that marks the exit of Vanis couloir. Accross the steeping ridge to gain the foor of rock spur falling from summit ridge. There are stwo options: i)easier variation involves traverse to right on 55 degree ice to gain steep couloir (15m, 4a, pitons), ii)Spur can also be climbed directly (40m, IV+). Uppermost part consist of snow and ice aretes that lead to summit. Descent either following Breithorn Half traverse to West summit (3,5h) or easier and more directly down to either Rossi e Volante bivouac hut, Rifugio val d'Ayas or Klein Matterhorn. .
  • Biner 422
  • SAC 4 167
  • Moran 29h D+, IV 1420m, 6-8h
  • AC East 23m D
  • Vaucher 70
  • SAC 4/5 112
NNW Flank of East Summit. Ice, D/TD-; 700m. 1987-01-01First ascentAlmer, Ascherson, Jossi, Kaufmann & Mothersill, 1987.
Vanis (North_east Couloir). Ice/mixed, D+/TD; III/4, 4a/IV+; 650m, 7-8h. 1954-07-21First ascentErich Vanis, Leo Graf & Klaus Kubiena, 1954-07-21.
Prominent ice couloir to the left of Younggrat.
  • SAC 4 169
  • AC East 23n TD-/TD
  • SAC 4/5 113 D+
Vanis (variant italiana). Ice/mixed, III/4, V+; 650m, 6-8h. 1960-07-29First ascentCavallieri, Mellano & Perego, 1960-07-29.
  • SAC 4 169
  • AC East 23n TD-/TD
East summit, South side
Half-traverse of Breithorn Crest E-W (East Ridge of Central Summit). Rock, III AD/AD+; 45-50°, 3a/IV; 500m, 3,5-4h from Cesare e Giorgio Rossi bivouac hut; 850m, 5-6h from Val d'Ayas, 520m, 4,5-5 from Klein Matterhorn.
Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Shorter version of the classic ridge traverse. Climb to the saddle (4022m) between Eastern and central summits up a snow flank (45-50°) and continuing over Central summit to West summit. This makes the traverse shorter, but no less difficult. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)).
  • Moran 29d AD-, III
  • AC East 23w AD
  • SAC 4 193 AD+
  • Vaucher 39
  • SAC 4/5 117 AD+
Traverse E-W. Rock, III AD/AD+/E2; 45-50°, 4a/IV; 730m, 5-7h from Cesare e Giorgio Rosi bivouac hut (3750); 1180m, 6,5-8,5h from Val d'Ayas.
Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)). Normally climbed from east to west. hut or Klein Matterhorn, but then even longer. It is also possible to do a half traverse by climbing to the saddle (4022m) between Eastern and central summits up a snow flank (45-50°) and continuing over Central summit to West summit. This makes the traverse shorter, but no less difficult. AD+, IV+. It is also possible to do the traverse in opposite direction starting from Klein Matterhorn to Rossi e Volante bivouac hut or to Val d' Ayas hut. This can serve as a more demanding start to traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. This is propably also around AD+. There are no equipped rappels (most part of the route can be downclimbed).
  • Moran 29e AD, III
  • AC East 23w AD
  • SAC 4 193 AD+
  • Vaucher 39
  • SAC 4/5 116 AD+
Schwarztor (Porta Neria)3731
Glacier pass between Roccia Neria (Breithorn) and Pollux. Bivouac hut Rossi e Volante is located close by. Provides access from Monte Rosahütte to val d'Ayas and other Italian huts. Most convenient access to north face routes of Breithorn East summit.
  • AC East 24a-b F-PD
  • SAC 4/5 120-122 F-PD
Pollux (Punta Polluce)4092

Located very close to higher but technically easier Castor between Breithorn and Monte Rosa massifs. Pollux is separated from easternmost summit of Breithorn (Roccia Nera) by Schwarztor) and from Castor by Zwillingsjoch.

Pollux is most commonly climbed either as a day trip from Klein Materhorn or as a part of a multi-day traverse of the Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain.

North side
North Ridge. AD-; 45°, II; 3,5h, 1350m, 4,5-6h from Monte Rosa hut.
Either from Val d'Ayas hut (south) or Monte Rosa hut (north). 4km long ridge. Also suitable for descent.
  • Moran 28d AD
  • AC East 25c AD
  • SAC 4 209 AD-
  • Hochtouren 73
  • SAC 4/5 125 AD-
SW Ridge
From Schwarztor/Porta Neria (3731m, located between Roccia Nera (Breithorn) and Pollux
SW Ridge from Schwarztor. II AD-/AD; 3a; 290m, 2h.
Normal route. Follows the ridge from Schwarztor to summit. Often climbed as a part of traverse of Pollux (which in turn is often included in a multi-day traverse on Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain).
  • AC East 25b PD
  • SAC 4 203 AD-
  • Moran 28a PD+
  • SAC 4/5 AD-
West Flank. PD; 50°; 290m, 1,5-2h.
Normal route. Easier alternative to SW ridge.
  • AC East 25a PD, 50°
  • SAC 4 205 PD
  • Moran 28c PD+
  • SAC 4/5 124 PD
SE Ridge
From Zwillingsjoch/Passo di Verra (3845m, located between Castor and Pollux)
SE Ridge from Zwillingsjoch. PD; 2a/II, 50°; 250m, 1h.
From Zwillingsjoch (between Pollux and Castor) along the ridge to the summit. Serves as a descent when traversing the Pollux. When used in ascent, Val d'Ayas hut is the most conveniently placed starting point.
  • Moran 28b PD+
  • AC East 25d PD
  • SAC 4 210 PD
  • SAC 4/5 126 PD
Zwillingsjoch (Passo di Verra)3845
Located between Castor and Pollux.
  • AC East 26a-b F-AD
  • SAC 4/5 127-128 F
Castor (Punta Castore)4228
South-easternly of twin summit Castor and Pollux (4092m). These two are often climbed together. Castor is higher but technically easier. Most commonly climbed either from Klein Matterhorn, Val d'Ayas hut (south) or Monte Rosa hut (north).
1861-08-23
Castor, ,
First ascent
Michel Croz, William Matheus & F.W.Jacomb via SE Ridge.
1861-08-23
Castor, SE Ridge,
First ascent
SE Ridge: FW. Jacomb, W. Matthews & M. Croz
North side
  • SAC 4 225 AD+
  • Moran 27e AD+
SW side
NW Flank. II F+/PD; ; 350m, 1,5-2h from Zwillingsjoch. 700m, 4h from Klein Matterhorn.
  • AC East 27d
  • SAC 4 223,224 PD
  • Hochtouren 72
  • Moran 27b
  • SAC 4/5 131 PD
Traverse Pollux-Castor W-E. AD-/AD/E2; 3a.
Pollux, SW Ridge from Schwarztor (AD-/AD). Pollux, SE Ridge from Zwillingsjoch in descent (PD, II, 50°), Castor, Normal route from Zwillingsjoch (F+/PD, 35°).
  • Vaucher 29
SE side
From Felikjoch (4066)
SE Ridge. II PD/Rus 2B; 35°; 650m, 2,5h from Rifugio Quintano Sella. 1861-08-23First ascentFW. Jacomb, W. Matthews & M. Croz, 1861-08-23.
  • Moran 27a F+
  • AC East 27a F
  • SAC 4 215-217 F-PD+
  • SAC 4/5 129 PD
Felikjoch (Colle Felik)4063
South side
South side. Glacier, F; 460m, 2h.
  • AC East 28a F
  • SAC 4/5 134
North side
North side. Glacier, AD; 1400m, 5-6h.
  • AC East 28b AD
  • SAC 4/5 133
Lyskamm4527
  • East summit (4527m)
  • West summit (4479m)

Lyskamm is one of the big mountains in the Alps. There are two main summits, separated by col Selle 4417m, on the 2,5km long snowy summit ridge. Lower West summit (4479m) is also easier to reach than slightly higher East summit (4527m).

Lyskamm offers interesting climbing destinations. Traverse of both summits (AD/AD+) and North Face of East summit (D) are established classics.

1878-09-01
Lyskamm, Cresta Sella,
First ascent
Cresta Sella: P. Thomas, J. Imboden & L. Langen
1890-08-09
Lyskamm, Norman-Neruda,
First ascent
Norman-Neruda: Christian Klucker, Ludwig Norman-Neruda & Josef Reinstadler
1925-08-08
Lyskamm, Welzenbach Couloir,
First ascent
Welzenbach Couloir: Rudolf Walter & Willo Welzenbach
1927-08-05
Lyskamm, Blanchet-Route,
First ascent
Blanchet-Route: Emile-Robert Blanchet, Josef Aufdenblatten & Kaspar Mooser
1956-07-23
Lyskamm, Diemberger-Stefan,
First ascent
Diemberger-Stefan: Kurt Diemberger & Wolfgang Stefan
1960-08-08
Lyskamm, Münchnerweg,
First ascent
Münchnerweg: Werner Gross & Toni Hiebeler
1961-08-05
Lyskamm, Andreani-Nessi,
First ascent
Andreani-Nessi: Giuseppe Andreani & Piero Nessi
1980-09-05
Lyskamm, NNE- und NE-Seite über den Felsriegel,
First ascent
NNE- und NE-Seite über den Felsriegel: Patrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner
1982-09-10
Lyskamm, Direttissima,
First ascent
Direttissima: Patrick Gabarrou, Gian Carlo Grassi & Carlo Stratta
1983-07-15
Lyskamm, NE Seite,
First ascent
NE Seite: Stefano de Benedetti, Paola Calleri & Romi Guastalli
1984-02-13
Lyskamm, NE-Seite über das Felsband,
First ascent
NE-Seite über das Felsband: Alessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco
1984-02-13
Lyskamm, NE-Seite über das Felsband,
First ascent
NE-Seite über das Felsband: Alessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco
West summit, NNW side
West summit, NNW side. D; 6-8h.
  • SAC 4 242
West summit, Northeast Face (Westgipfel, Nordostwand, West summit, North Face, Westgipfel, Nordwand)
More rocky and bigger than NE face of East summit. 1000m with avg. angle of 53°. Great number of routes, all difficult (some D's, mostly TD) and serious due to seracs.
  • SAC 4 243-253
NE-Seite über das Felsband. Rock, TD-; IV; 6,5h. 1984-02-13First ascentAlessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco, 1984-02-13.
  • SAC 4 269
NNE- und NE-Seite über den Felsriegel. Mixed, D+; 11,5h. 1980-09-05First ascentPatrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1980-09-05.
  • SAC 4 253
Münchnerweg. Mixed, TD; 8-10h. 1960-08-08First ascentWerner Gross & Toni Hiebeler, 1960-08-08.
  • SAC 4 252
Diemberger-Stefan. Mixed, TD; 10-11h. 1956-07-23First ascentKurt Diemberger & Wolfgang Stefan, 1956-07-23.
  • SAC 4 251
  • SAC 4/5 141
Direttissima. Mixed, TD; 14h. 1982-09-10First ascentPatrick Gabarrou, Gian Carlo Grassi & Carlo Stratta, 1982-09-10.
  • SAC 4 250
Andreani-Nessi. Mixed, TD+; V,A1; 12-15h. 1961-08-05First ascentGiuseppe Andreani & Piero Nessi, 1961-08-05.
  • SAC 4 247
  • Vaucher 97
West summit, SW side
From Felikjoch (4063m)
West Ridge of West Summit. PD/G4; 40°, II; 390m, 2-3h.
From Felikjoch along the ridge to summit.
  • Moran 26d
  • AC East 29a PD
  • SAC 4 240 PD
  • SAC 4/5 140 PD 2h
South face.
  • SAC 4 254-257
Traverse W-E. IV AD/G7/E3; II-III/2, IV/AI1/45°; 1-2h from summit to summit. 950m, 6h from the Cap. Quintino Sella to Lysjoch.
Classic. Long narrow snow and rock ridge, double cornices. Often climbed as a part of multi-day traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. Established classic. It is possible to gain Sella del Lyskamm from Felik glacier (Cresta Sella AD, AC E 29d). SW-ridge from the Felikjoch (4063m) to the W-summit. mixed, PD/G4, II passages, 40°. 2-3h from Felikjoch, 390m. Traverse from W-summit to the E-summit. AD/G7, II-III, 1-2h, 1km E-ridge (normal route) from E-summit to Lysjoch (4151m). PD/AD (G4), II, max 40-45° .
  • Moran 26d AD
  • AC East 29e AD
  • SAC 4 240,254,259 PD,AD,AD
  • Hochtouren 75
  • Vaucher 47
  • SAC 4/5 142, 148 AD
East summit, Northeast Face (Ostgipfel, Nordostwand, East summit, North Face, Ostgipfel, Nordwand)
700m high classic ice face with fairly uniform angle of 55° and several routes. Base of the face at ~3800m. Rocky rib in the central part of the upper face provides the safest route but is also slower and more difficult than pure ice variations. Nowadays the most common route is either Norman-Neruda/Klucker or Welzenbach depending on the conditions.
NE-Wand der Schulter 4335m des E-Grates (Jerry Moffat Route). Ice, D; 4,5h.
  • SAC 4 274
Norman-Neruda (Norman-Neruda/Klucker Rib, NF of East Summit). Ice/mixed, D+/TD; 4b/IV/IV+, Sco II/55°; 700m, 3-6h; 8h from Monte Rosahütte. 1890-08-09First ascentChristian Klucker, Ludwig Norman-Neruda & Josef Reinstadler, 1890-08-09.
Classic. Classic ice route, the least dangerous route on the face. Starts left of the rocks in the center of the face, climbs snow/ice field to gain the central rock ridge between two big seracs leading to the E summit.
  • Biner 431
  • SAC 4 272
  • Moran 26c D+, 55°, IV
  • AC East 29k D+
  • Vaucher 69
  • SAC 4/5 146 D+
Welzenbach Couloir (NE Couloir). Ice, D; 700m, 4-5h; 8h from Monte Rosahütte. 1925-08-08First ascentRudolf Walter & Willo Welzenbach, 1925-08-08.
Classic. Starts and finishes with Norman-Neruda/Klucker but avoids the rocky spur by climbing the vague couloir to the left of the rocky spur.
  • SAC 4 273
  • SAC 4/5 147 D+
NE Seite. Ice, D; 700m, 4-5h. 1983-07-15First ascentStefano de Benedetti, Paola Calleri & Romi Guastalli, 1983-07-15.
  • SAC 4 271
Blanchet-Route. Ice, D+; 55°; 700m, 4-5h. 1927-08-05First ascentEmile-Robert Blanchet, Josef Aufdenblatten & Kaspar Mooser, 1927-08-05.
  • SAC 4 270
NE-Seite über das Felsband. Rock, TD-; IV; 6,5h. 1984-02-13First ascentAlessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco, 1984-02-13.
  • SAC 4 269
East summit, SE side
From Lysjoch (4151m)
East ridge. Ice, II PD/AD/G4/Rus 2B-3A; II, 40-45°; 930m, 4-5h from Gnifettihütte, 380m, 1,5-2h, from Lysjoch.
Normal route. Possible as skitour, skidepot at Lysjoch.
  • Moran 26b
  • AC East 29c
  • SAC 4 259 AD
  • SAC 4/5 143 AD
Cresta Sella (South Ridge). PD+; 45°, II; 3h; 1030m, 8,5h roundtrip from Quintano Sella. 1878-09-01First ascentP. Thomas, J. Imboden & L. Langen, 1878-09-01.
  • Hochtouren 74
  • Moran 26a AD-
  • SAC 4/5 145 AD-
South face.
Useful as escape from the low point between the summits along the traverse. Otherwise not of particular merit.
  • SAC 4 260-268
  • Moran 26e AD-
Lysjoch (La Selle)4151
Located between Lyskamnm and Monte Rosa massif. Probably the most important pass on the Frontier ridge from mountaineer's point of view.
South side
South side. Glacier, F; 640m, 2,5h from Gnifetti hut, shorter from Balmenhorn bivouac.
  • AC East 30a F
  • SAC 4/5 153 F
North side
North side. Glacier, AD; 1460m, 5h.
  • AC East 30b PD
  • SAC 4/5 153 AD

Monte Rosa

Southern part

Punta Indren3250
Punta Vittoria3425
Vincent Pyramide4215
  • Vincent Pyramide (4215m)
  • Punta Giordani (SE summit) (4046m)
Southernmost independent peak in Monte Rosa chain. Punta Giordani, that is sometimes considered to be an independent mountain, is merely a SE summit of Vindent Pyramide.
SW face
400m high SW has host of early-season mixed routes around grade AD+. Later in the season the face melts and stones start to fly.
  • SAC 4 320-325
  • AC East 32c-f
  • Moran 25d
SSW Ridge. PD/Rus 1B; I, 35°; 600m, 2h.
  • AC East 32a F
  • SAC 4 319 PD
  • Moran 25e
  • SAC 4/5 206 PD
NE face
NE faces of Pyramide Vincent and Punta Giordani form 800m wide and 550m high face rising from Gh. delle Piode occidentale. There are severeal routes between grades AD+ and TD, mainly on rock.
  • SAC 4 302,311-316
Colle Vincent (Vincentjoch)4087
East side. 5b.
Best route on the whole face leads to Colle Vincent rather than the summit of Vincent Piramide.
  • SAC 4/5 208
Balmenhorn4167
Unimportant and not prominent peak. It is possible to reach Balmenhorn from all directions. Theer's bivaco Giordani on the rocks of Balmenhorn, located immediately below huge Christus statue.
Corno Nero (Schwarzhorn)4321
SE face
600m, D+ - TD
  • SAC 4 338-340
Colle Zurbriggen (Zurbriggenjoch)4279
Ludwigshöhe4341
Rarely climbed except in combination with Parrotspitze. Normal route easy (F).
Piodejoch (Colle delle Piode)4283
Parrotspitze (Punta Parrot)4432
ENE face
400m heavily glaciated face
ENE face of Parrotspitze. AD+; 55°; 4,5h/1200m, 6-7,5h.
It is also possible to climb directly through Canale Sesia (AD, 55°) to Seeserjoch (4296m). Frtom Seeserjoch along the normal route to the summit.
  • Moran 24e
  • AC East 36d D
  • SAC 4 354 D-
Canale Sesia. Snow/ice, AD; 55-60°; 500m, 4-5h.
Couloir to Seserjoch (4296m).
  • SAC 4 365 D
South face
700m face of rock and ice with routes between AD - TD-
  • SAC 4 358-361 AD - TD-
Via degli Italiani. 3a; 7h.
  • SAC 4/5 209 AD
Seserjoch (Colle Sesia)4296

Northern part

Signalkuppe (Punta Gnifetti)4556
Mountaineeringwise the second most important peak in Monta Rosa. Margherita hut is located on the summit (the highest building in Europe). Three distinct ridges and faces. East Ridge (Cresta Signal) is classic ascent. West face is benign, whereas NE and SE faces are huge domains of steep rock and ice.
1842-08-09
Signalkuppe, West flank,
First ascent
West flank: Giovanni Gnifetti and seven Guides
1887-07-28
Signalkuppe, Cresta Signal,
First ascent
Cresta Signal: A. Supersaxo & H. W. Topham
West side
Almost completely covered by firn and ice
West flank. Glacier, F/PD/G2/Rus 2A; 1,5h; 900m, 3,5-4,5h. 1842-08-09First ascentGiovanni Gnifetti and seven Guides, 1842-08-09.
Normal route. Glacier route at high altitude. From Gnifetti hut towards Lysjoch until East saddle (4246m), then close to Seserjoch and Colle Gnifetti and to the summit.
  • Moran 24a
  • AC East 37a F
  • SAC 4 367 F
  • SAC 4/5 211 F
SW Ridge. PD-; I, 45°; 1h from Seserjoch.
  • SAC 4 384 PD-
NW side from Monta Rosa hut. PD-; 5,5-7h.
Via Grenz glacier.
  • Moran 24b
  • SAC 4 368 PD+
NE face
Above Gh. del Monte Rosa. Features three prominent rock ribs. All routes (TD - ED-) are exposed to considerable objective danger, cold conditions are must.
  • SAC 4 370-377
Cresta Signal (East Ridge)
Cresta Signal (East Ridge). Mixed, IV D; 4a/IV; 1000m, 5-7h. 1887-07-28First ascentA. Supersaxo & H. W. Topham, 1887-07-28.
Isolated and beautiful ridge. Mixed climbing at altitude up to grade IV.
  • Moran 24d
  • AC East 37f D
  • Vaucher 82
  • SAC 4/5 212 D
SE face
800m high face between Cresta Signal and Canale Sesia (leading to Seserjoch)
  • SAC 4 378-383
ENE face of Parrotspitze. AD+; 55°; 1200m, 6-7,5h.
It is also possible to climb directly through Canale Sesia (AD, 55°) to Seeserjoch (4296m). From Seeserjoch along the normal route to the summit.
  • Moran 24e
  • AC East 36d D
Gabarrou. Mixed, ABO; 90, M°, VII+/6c; 1250m.
Colle Gnifetti4452
Zumsteinspitze (Punta Zumstein)4563
Part of Monte Rosa Massif.
1820-08-01
Zumsteinspitze, ,
First ascent
Joseph Zumstein et al.
SE Ridge
From Colle Gnifetti (4452m) to the summit.
SE Ridge. F/G2/Rus 1B; 40°; 100m, 0,5h.
  • AC East 38a F
  • SAC 4 393 F
  • SAC 4/5 214 F
N Ridge
From Grenzsattel (4453m) to the summit.
N Ridge. PD+; 100m, 05h.
  • SAC 4 401,397 PD+
  • SAC 4/5 215
Grenzsattel (Colle Zumstein)4453
West side
West side from Lysjoch. PD; 2h from Lysjoch.
  • SAC 4 400 PD
West side from Monte Rosahütte. PD+/AD-; 5h.
  • SAC 4 401,402 PD+/AD-
East side
D; 8h.
  • SAC 4 403 D
Dufourspitze (Punta Dufour)4634
The highest mountain of Monte Rosa Massif and the highest mountain in Switzerland.
1855-01-01
Dufourspitze, ,
First ascent
Charles Hudson, J. Smyth, C. Smyth, E. Stephenson, John Birkbeck and party.
1872-07-22
Dufourspitze, Marinelli Couloir,
First ascent
Marinelli Couloir: R. & W. Pendlebury, C. Taylor, F. Imseng, G. Oberto & G. Spechtenhauser
North side
N Face and W Ridge. Glacier, III AD-/G4; 3a/II+, mostly I, III/AI1/40°; 1840m, 5-7h in ascent, 4h in descent.
Normal route. Long glacier ascent, mixed and exposed. From Monte Rosa Hut via Sattel 4359m,.
  • Moran 22a
  • AC East 40a PD
  • SAC 4 406 PD
  • Hochtouren 78
  • SAC 4/5 220 AD-
Traverse from Nordend (N Flank). II AD; 3a/III and II; 2h from Silbersattel (4515m).
  • Moran 22d PD+, III,A0
  • AC East 40d
  • SAC 4 411,423 AD
  • SAC 4/5 222 AD
East face (Macugnaga-wand)
There are three major spurs on the face, of which the northernmost, known as Crestone Marinelli, is the most prominent. It's base at 2250m, is the face of the actual face, laying 24090m below the summit. Central spur is known as Crestone Imseng and the third one (South) is known as Crestone Zapparoli. Wide Marinelli couloir leading to Dufourspitze is the most classic route on the face. However, Brioschi (Nordend) is safer and more challenging. Cold conditions are essential for safety.
  • From Marinelli Hut (3036m). Access from Macugnaga
  • SAC 4 414
Marinelli Couloir (Canalone Marinelli). Ice, D/G10/E5; 55°, 4a/III-IV; 1700m, 9-12h from Marinelli Hut. 1872-07-22First ascentR. & W. Pendlebury, C. Taylor, F. Imseng, G. Oberto & G. Spechtenhauser, 1872-07-22.
Classic. Most famous route on vast East face of Monte Rosa. Route has unavoidable objective danger, therefore cold conditions and speed are necessary to minimize the risk.
  • Moran 22e D, IV
  • AC East 40e D
  • SAC 4 414 D
  • Vaucher 75
  • SAC 4/5 223 D
SE Ridge
Traverse from Zumsteinspitze. Mixed, II AD/Rus 3B; 3a/III and II; 3,5h.
Mixed ridge, often done as a part of the traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. From Signalkuppe (Margherita hut) over Zumsteinspitze via Grenzsattel and SE Ridge to summit. Descent typically along the normal route to Monte Rosa hut.
  • Moran 22c AD, III
  • AC East 40f AD
  • SAC 4 415 AD
  • SAC 4/5 221 AD
South side
  • SAC 4 416-421
Cresta Rey (South Rib). Rock, AD+/G8; 3a/III- and II; 400m, 3h; 1330m, 5,6-8h from Gnifetti hut; 700m, 5,5-6h from Margherita hut, 1800m, 8-9h from Monte Rosa hut.
Ridge starts at 4250m. More interesting, and difficult, alternative to monotonous normal route. Good rock.
  • Moran 22b
  • AC East 40b AD+
  • SAC 4 417 AD+
  • Vaucher 80
Silbersattel (Sella d'Argento)4515
Located on Frontier ridge immediately south of Nordend. Visited by parties climbing the normal route of Nordend.
  • AC East 41a PD
Nordend4609
Northmost peak of the Monte Rosa massif.
1861-08-26
Nordend, ,
First ascent
E. Buxton, T.F. Buxton, J.J. Conwell, Guide Michel Payot and Binder
1876-07-01
Nordend, Brioschi,
First ascent
Brioschi: L. Brioschi, A. & F. Imseng
1877-08-13
Nordend, Morshead Spur,
First ascent
Morshead Spur: F. Morshead & M. Andereg
1886-08-18
Nordend, West face,
First ascent
West face: August Lorria, Lelix O. Schuster, Joseph Gentinetta & Josep Truffer
1906-07-01
Nordend, Cresta di Santa Caterina,
First ascent
Cresta di Santa Caterina: V. Ryan, F. & J. Lochmatter
North side
Cresta di Santa Caterina (ENE Ridge). Rock, TD; 5a/V; 450m, 6-8h. 1906-07-01First ascentV. Ryan, F. & J. Lochmatter, 1906-07.
Classic. Superb sustained route on good rock from Jägerjoch (3913m). Much of the climbing is slabby. Some gear in situ, but own pro necessary.
  • SAC 4 437
  • AC East 42d TD
  • Vaucher 96
  • SAC 4/5 229 TD
West side
West face. Ice, D; 48°; 6h from Monte Rosa hut. 1886-08-18First ascentAugust Lorria, Lelix O. Schuster, Joseph Gentinetta & Josep Truffer, 1886-08-18.
  • SAC 4 428
Morshead Spur. Rock, D-; 4a/IV; 400m, 7h. 1877-08-13First ascentF. Morshead & M. Andereg, 1877-08-13.
From Silbersattel (approach 4h). Good rock.
  • SAC 4 430 D-
  • AC East 42b PD
  • Moran 23b
  • SAC 4/5 226 D-
South side
South Ridge. AD/G3; 2a/II and I; 1820m, 6-7h.
Normal route. From Monte Rosa Hut (2795m) along the normal route of Dufourspitze until Satteltole (4100m). From there via glacier basin to Silbersattel (4515m). Traverse South Ridge to the summit. During spring season popular among ski mountaineers.
  • Moran 23a PD
  • AC East 40a PD
  • SAC 4/5 225 AD
East face
Part of vast Monte Rosa East face. Cold conditions are essential for safe ascent. Several big and serious ice/mixed routes between grades D and ED.
  • Marinelli Hut (3036m). Access from Macugnaga
  • SAC 4 439-448
Brioschi. Mixed, V D+/TD-; IV and III, 60°; 1050m, 8-10h, 1580m, 9-12h from Maninelli Hut. 1876-07-01First ascentL. Brioschi, A. & F. Imseng, 1876-07.
Classic. Classic ice route. Safer and more difficult alternative to better known Marinelli couloir (of Dufourspitze).
  • Moran 23c
  • AC East 42f D+
  • SAC 4 443 D
  • Vaucher 88
  • SAC 4/5 230 D
Jägerjoch3913
Of no particular importance but along the way from Gallarate bivouac to Cresta di Santa Caterina.
  • SAC 4/5 231-232 F-PD
Jägerhorn3970
Fillarjoch (Colle Fillar)3586

Eastern chain

Punta Tre Amici3620
Punta Grobler3497

Weissgrat - Roffelhörner

Riffelhorn2927
Located close to Rotenboden station of GornergratImportant training cliff for rock climbing. North face is fairly short, South side has routes up to 400m
  • SAC 4/5 321

Mischabel Group

Strahlhorn4190
One of the easier 4000m peaks. Not particularly popular though, as the approach is lengthy and nearby Rimpfishhorn is visually more appealing without being technically too much more difficult.
1854-01-01
Strahlhorn, ,
First ascent
E.J.Grenville, Christoph Smyth, Franz Joseph Andermatten & Ulrich Lauener
1854-08-15
Strahlhorn, Adler Pass & West Ridge,
First ascent
Adler Pass & West Ridge: J.G. & C. Smyth, F-J. Andenmatten & V. Lauener
West ridge
Adler Pass & West Ridge (WNW Ridge). F+/PD/G2; 1250m, 4-5h from Britannia hut. 2h longer from Berghaus Flüe. 1854-08-15First ascentJ.G. & C. Smyth, F-J. Andenmatten & V. Lauener, 1854-08-15.
via Adler Pass (3789m).
  • AC East 52a PD
  • Moran 21a-b
  • SAC 4/5 401-402 PD-AD-
South ridge
S Ridge. AD-; 3,5h.
From Rifugio Eugenio Sella (3029m) - S Ridge (SSE) - summit - Britannia hut (3030m).
  • AC East 52b AD+
  • Moran 21f
  • SAC 4/5 405 AD-
Adlerhorn3988
Rimpfischhorn4199
1859-09-09
Rimpfischhorn, Upper SW flank,
First ascent
Upper SW flank: R. Liveing, L. Stephen, M. Anderegg & J. Zumtaugwald
1923-07-13
Rimpfischhorn, NW flank,
First ascent
NW flank: E-R. Blanchet & H. Imseng
South side
Upper SW flank (Rimffischwäng-grat). II AD-; 45°, 2a/III; 1610, 8h. 1859-09-09First ascentR. Liveing, L. Stephen, M. Anderegg & J. Zumtaugwald, 1859-09-09.
  • Hochtouren 69
  • Moran 21a-c
  • SAC 4/5 416 PD
NW flank
NW flank. Ice, D; 55°, 3a; 300m, 3h from bergschrund. 1923-07-13First ascentE-R. Blanchet & H. Imseng, 1923-07-13.
  • AC East 54b
  • Moran 21d AD+
  • SAC 4/5 419 D
North ridge. Mixed, AD; 3a-4a/III; 1340m, 6,5-8h from Britannia hut, somewhat longer from Täsch hut; 3h in descent.
  • Moran 21e
  • SAC 4/5 420 AD
Allalinpass3564
  • SAC 4/5 423-426 AD
Allalinhorn4027
Popular easy mountaineering and ski touring objective. Ascent is greatly assisted by underground train to Mittelallallin station which makes Allalinhorn the second most accessible 4000m peak in Valais after Breithorn.
West flank (WNW Ridge)
West flank. F/E1; 40°; 580m, 2,5h.
  • Moran 19a-b, 19d
  • SAC 4/5 427 F
Hohlaubgrat ((E)NE ridge)
NE ridge. Snow, AD; 40°, II; 1087, 5h. 1882-07-27First ascentH. Dübi, A. & P. Supersaxo, 1882-07-27.
  • Hochtouren 68
  • Moran 19e PD+
  • Vaucher 39(?)
  • SAC 4/5 431 AD
Feechopf3888
Alphubeljoch3772
  • SAC 4/5 445-448
Alphubel4206
1860-01-01
Alphubel, ,
First ascent
Leslie Stephen, T.W.Hinchliff,Melchior Anderegg & Peter Perren from Täsch over Alphubeljoch and SE Ridge
West side
Rotgrat (WSW Ridge). Mixed, III AD+/G6; 4a/III+/IV and II; 1500m, 5-7h from Täsch hut.
Mixed on firn and compact rock. Most difficulties in last 300m.
  • Hochtouren 67
  • Vaucher 33
  • Moran 18e AD, III+
  • SAC 4/5 454 AD+
West Ridge of north summit (West Rib). D+/G10; 4b/IV+; 8-9h from Täsch hut.
  • Moran 18f
  • SAC 4/5 455 D
North side
From Langflue (East flank). Snow, II PD+/G3; 45°, II (50m); 1300m, 4-5h from Täsch hut (2701m, 1500m of ascent).
Normal route. From Langflue cable car station (2870m, cable car from Saas Fee). From Feejoch 50m mixed passage (II). Also possible from Britannia hut (3030m, 1290m of ascent, G3-4).
  • Moran 18a PD-
  • SAC 4/5 451 PD
North Ridge. AD; III-; 1-2h from Mischabeljoch.
  • Moran 18d PD
NE Face. D/G6; 55°; 600m.
Objectively dangerous mixed route.
South side
SE Ridge (Eisnase). II PD; II, 40°; 1500m, 4-5h from Täsch hut.
  • Hochtouren 66
  • Moran 18c PD
  • SAC 4/5 453 PD
South Flank. D/G8; III+/IV; 650m.
Mischabeljoch3847
  • SAC 4/5 601-604 PD
Täschhorn4490
Part of the Mischabel ridge, the most difficult and arguable the finest peak in the group. One of the more difficult 4000m peaks. There is a bivouac hut between Täschhorn and Alphubel, that makes the ascent considerably shorter. Easiest descent via Dom (traverse AD+), then along the normal route of Dom.
1876-07-30
Täschhorn, Kinflanke,
First ascent
Kinflanke: J. Jackson, Guide Christion and Ulich Almer
1876-08-15
Täschhorn, Mischabelgrat,
First ascent
Mischabelgrat: J.Jackson, Christian & Ulrich Almer
1887-07-16
Täschhorn, Teufelsgrat,
First ascent
Teufelsgrat: Joseph Andermatten, A.F. & M.Mummery
1906-01-01
Täschhorn, SW Face,
First ascent
SW Face: Franz & Josef Lochmatter, V.J.E. Ryan, Geoffrey Winthrop Young & Josef Knubel
NW side
Kinflanke (NW Face). Ice, AD/G5; 2a/II+, 50°; 1700m, 6h from Dom hut (2940m, approach from Randa). 1876-07-30First ascentJ. Jackson, Guide Christion and Ulich Almer, 1876-07-30.
Predominantly ice, route finding problematic. Also possible from Kin hut.
  • AC East 62c AD+
  • Moran 13b AD+
  • SAC 4/5 609 AD
Mischabelgrat
Mischabelgrat (SE Ridge). II AD/G6; 3a/III, M2; 4-5h from Mischabeljoch; 1700m, 7-9h from Täsch hut (2701m). 1876-08-15First ascentJ.Jackson, Christian & Ulrich Almer, 1876-08-15.
  • AC East 62a AD
  • Hochtouren 65
  • Vaucher 36
  • Moran 13a
  • SAC 4/5 605 AD
SW Face. 1906-01-01First ascentFranz & Josef Lochmatter, V.J.E. Ryan, Geoffrey Winthrop Young & Josef Knubel, 1906.
Prestigeous,loose and dangerous horror show. TD+, 900m, 10-15h.
Teufelsgrat (WSW Ridge). D+/G9; 4a/IV; 8-10h from Kinlücke (3734m), 12-15h from the hut. 1887-07-16First ascentJoseph Andermatten, A.F. & M.Mummery, 1887-07-16.
2km ridge.
  • AC East 62b D
  • Vaucher 90
  • Moran 13c D, IV
  • SAC 4/5 607 D+
Domjoch4281
Dom4545
Although the summit of Dufourspitze is located entirely in Switzerland, Dom is sometimes claimed to be the the highest purely Swiss mountain. it is the next highest peak in the Alkps after Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa peaks. Best known climb by far is Domgrat, high level traverse from Täshhorn to Dom. Normal route is not technical but sports the highest elevation gain on any of the normal routes in the Alps that has to be scaled on foot (3100m from Randa), which keeps the number of aspirants at bay.
1858-09-11
Dom, Festigrat,
First ascent
Festigrat: J.L. Davies, Johann Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig and Hieronymous Brantschen
North side
North Face (North Flank, Nordflanke). Snow, II PD; 40°, 2a/II; 1650m, 5-7h from Dom Hut.
Normal route. Easiest route.
  • AC East 64a PD
  • Hochtouren 64
  • Moran 12a
  • SAC 4/5 616 PD-
Festigrat (NW Ridge). PD+/G4; 2a/II, 50°; 3h from Festijoch; 1600m, 5-6h from Dom hut. 1858-09-11First ascentJ.L. Davies, Johann Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig and Hieronymous Brantschen, 1858-09-11.
Classic ridge, mostly on rock. From Dom hut via Festijoch. Quickest and most direct route from Dom hut.
  • AC East 62d PD+
  • Hochtouren 64
  • Vaucher 59
  • Moran 12b PD+
  • SAC 4/5 621 PD+
Täscchorn-Dom traverse (Traverse from Täschhorn)
Domgrat (South Ridge, Traverse from Täshhorn). IV AD+/D/G6; 3b/III+ and II; 907m, 3-5h from summit to summit; 14-15h for the entire traverse (Täschhorn NNE Ridge - Dom S Ridge).
Classic. Narrow and airy ridge, partially corniced. Classic route in its own right and allows access to easier descent along Dom normal route. Rock somewhat loose.
  • AC East 64b AD
  • Vaucher 66
  • Moran 12c D, III+
  • SAC 4/5 611 AD
Lenzjoch4121
  • SAC 4/5 626-627 AD
Lenzspitze4294
Most southernly summit on Nadelgrat. Often climbed as part of Dom Traverse (Festigrat) or traverse of Nadelgrat. NE Face (Dreieselswand) is the most famous ice face in the Mischabel group. Easiest descent is by traversing to Nadelhorn (AD, III+, 1-5-3h), then along Nadelhorn normal route to Mischabelhütte.
1870-08-01
Lenzspitze, ,
First ascent
Clinton Dent, Alexander & Franz Burgener via NE Face to Nadeljoch, from there along NE Ridge.
1882-08-03
Lenzspitze, ENE Ridge,
First ascent
ENE Ridge: Ambros Supersaxo, Theodor Andermatten & W.W. Graham
1888-07-28
Lenzspitze, South Ridge via Lenzjoch,
First ascent
South Ridge via Lenzjoch: Ambros Supersaxo, L.Zurbriggen & R.F.Ball
1911-07-07
Lenzspitze, Dreieselswand,
First ascent
Dreieselswand: Bethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otman Supersaxo
North side
ENE Ridge. Rock/mixed, AD; 3c/III; 950m, 4-5h from Mischabel huts. 1882-08-03First ascentAmbros Supersaxo, Theodor Andermatten & W.W. Graham, 1882-08-03.
Normal route. Direct, accessible and enjoyable. Sustained at II and I with several pitches of III.
  • AC East 65a AD
  • Hochtouren 63
  • Moran 14b AD, III+
  • SAC 4/5 628 AD
Dreieselswand (NE Face). Ice, III D/D+/Rus 3B; 56°/50°, 3c/III; 490m. Approach 1,25h from the hut, face 3-4h. 1911-07-07First ascentBethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otman Supersaxo, 1911-07-07.
Classic. Famous ice classic, one of the trademarks of Michabel group. From Mischabel hut (3340m). Start of difficulties at 3800m, directly in the fall line. Descent over NE Ridge via Nadelhorn (AD, III+) and Windjoch to Mischabel hut (PD). Lower part 50° upper part 52° (max 56°).
  • AC East 65d D+
  • Vaucher 57
  • Moran 14c
  • SAC 4/5 631 D
South Ridge
South Ridge via Lenzjoch. AD-; 3a/III; 1350m, 6-7h from Dom hut. 1888-07-28First ascentAmbros Supersaxo, L.Zurbriggen & R.F.Ball, 1888-07-28.
Normal route. easiest route from Dom hut.
  • AC East 65b PD+
  • Moran 14a
  • SAC 4/5 629 AD-
Nadelhorn4327
The highest point of Nadelgrat, one of the easiest peaks in the area.
1858-09-16
Nadelhorn, ,
First ascent
Joseph Zimmermann, Alois Supersaxo, Baptist Epiney & Franz Andermatten via NE Ridge.
1858-09-16
Nadelhorn, NE Ridge,
First ascent
NE Ridge: F. Andenmatten, B. Epiney, A. Supersaxo & J. Zimmermann
East side
NE Ridge. Snow, II PD; 2a/II, 45°; 1000m, 4-5h from Mischabel huts. 1858-09-16First ascentF. Andenmatten, B. Epiney, A. Supersaxo & J. Zimmermann, 1858-09-16.
Normal route. Steep path of blocky terrain to reach a glacier at 3600m (0,5h). From there across the glacier and up the glacier to Windjoch between Nadelhorn and Ullrichshorn (3850m, 1,5-2h from the hut). From there along the ridge to the summit. At first the ridge is pure snow, higher up some easy rocks (up to II) are to be negotiated (lower rocks can be turned on the right side).
  • AC East 66a PD, II
  • Hochtouren 62
  • Moran 15a
  • SAC 4/5 633 PD
Nordflanke. Ice, D; 6-8h from Bordierhütte.
  • SAC 4/5 635 D
Nadelgrat
Long ridge running more or less South-North direction from Lenzspitze to Hochbärghorn or still further to Dirruhorn. It is possible to climb Nadelgrat is either direction in numerous variations either in a day or in two days (rest on Mischhebel huts). If it's still not enough, it is possible to climb further to south over Dom and Täshhorn.
Nadelgrat from Bordierhütte. G7; II, maybe III at the Nadelhorn-gendarm, 45°; 12h, 1640m.
Dirruhorn - Hochbärghorn - Stecknadelhorn - Nadelhorn - Lenzspitze.
  • Vaucher 55(?)
  • SAC 4/5 636
Nadelgrat from Mischabelhütte. IV, 45°; 12h, 1580m.
Mischabelhütte (3329m) - Lenzspitse - Nadelhorn - Stecknadelhorn - Hochbärghorn - Dirruhorn. Without Lenzspitze: AD (G4), III- (passages), mostly II and I.
Nadelgrat from Mischabelhütte without Lenzspitze. AD/G4; III- (passages), mostly II and I; 1300m, 7-9h.
Mischabelhütte (3329m) - Nadelhorn - Stecknadelhorn - Hochbärghorn.
Traverse from Lenzspitze (SE Ridge). Rock/mixed, III AD; 3b/III+, M1; 115m, 2-3h.
Easiest descent from Lenzspitze to Mischabelhütte. Also easiest descent from Lenzspitze. May be delicate if there's lots of snow covering the rocks.
  • AC East 66b AD, III+
  • Hochtouren 63
  • Moran 15c
  • Vaucher 26
  • SAC 4/5 630 AD
NW Ridge. Snow, PD+; III; 200m, 1,5-2h.
Hochbärgjoch (P. 4142m) - Stecknadelhorn - Stecknadeljoch - Nadelhorn. Elegant snow ridge.
  • AC East 66c PD+, III
  • Moran 15d
Hochbärghorn4219
Part of the Nadelgrat, located between Stecknadelhorn and Dirruhorn. Has a nice north face (D, approach from Mischabel hut 3329m).
Nadelgrat (NNW ridge)
NNW Ridge. Mixed, AD; II+; 300m; 1350m, 5-6h from Bordier hut; 1150m, 4,5-5h from Mischabelhütte.
Short mixed ridge from Dirrujoch (3912m). Part of Complete Nadelgrat.
  • AC East 67a AD, II+
  • Moran 16a
ESE Ridge. PD.
Part of Complete Nadelgrat.
  • AC East 67a PD
NE face
NE face. Ice, D; 4a; 320m, 5-6h from Bordier hut.
  • AC East 67c D
  • Moran 16c AD
  • SAC 4/5 640 D
Dirruhorn (Dürrenhorn)4035
Northermost peak on the Nadelgrat. Most often climbed as part of the complete Nadelgrat. usual access is from Dirrujoch (Moran 17a, AD).

Weissmies Group

Senggchuppa3694
  • SAC 4/5 1054-1055 F
Fletschhorn3993
1927-07-25
Fletschhorn, Original,
First ascent
Original: E.R.Blanchet, Oskar Supersaxo & Kaspar Mooser
1960-07-17
Fletschhorn, Wiener Route,
First ascent
Wiener Route: Vanis & co.
West face
West Flank & NW Ridge. PD/G2; 40°; 4,5h.
Normal route. From Weissmies hut.
  • SAC 4/5 1028 PD
North face
Original. TD/TD+. 1927-07-25First ascentE.R.Blanchet, Oskar Supersaxo & Kaspar Mooser, 1927-07-25.
Serious objective danger.
Wiener Route. Ice, IV D+/TD/G10; 60°; 600m, 4-8h. 1960-07-17First ascentVanis & co., 1960-07-17.
Classic. Pure ice to the topmost NW Ridge. Approach from bivouac place 150m.
  • Hochtouren 66 AD+
  • Vaucher 95
  • AC East 83c
  • SAC 4/5 1031 D+
Fletschjoch3694
Triftjoch3360
Trifthorn3396
  • SAC 4/5 1008-1011
Schwarzmies3194
Laggingjoch3498
  • SAC 4/5 1021-1022
Lagginhorn4010
West ridge
West ridge. PD; 40°, 2a/II; 560/1280m, 6,5h round trip.
  • Hochtouren 80
  • Moran 11a
  • SAC 4/5 1023 PD
South side
Südgrat. AD; 3a/III+; 920m, 7,5h roundtrip from Hohsaas.
Normal route. From Laggingjoch (3499m) over P. 3906.
  • Hochtouren 81
  • Moran 11b
  • SAC 4/5 1026 AD
North side
Traverse from Fletchhorn. PD+; 2b; 1,5h; 1590m, 6-7h from Weissmies hut.
  • Moran 11d
  • SAC 4/5 1024 PD
Weissmies4023
Highest peak in NE Pennine Alps, east of Saas valley.
1856-08-26
Weissmies, SE Ridge,
First ascent
SE Ridge: Peter Joseph Zurbriggen & Jakob Christian Heuser
1928-01-01
Weissmies, NE Rib,
First ascent
NE Rib: Blanchet, Mooser & Supersaxo
North side
Triftgrat (NW Face and W Ridge). Glacier, III PD/E2; 45°; 1050m, 3-4h from Hohsaas; 1h longer from Weissmies hut.
Normal route. From Hohsaas. More serious but much shorter than old normal route, some exposure.
  • Hochtouren 79
  • Moran 10a
  • SAC 4/5 1003 PD
North Ridge. AD+/D; 4a/IV- and III; 1300m, 6-10h from Hohsaas.
Beautiful, long and varied ridge route.
  • Vaucher 37
  • Moran 10c AD+, IV
  • SAC 4/5 1005 AD+
NE side
NE Rib. AD. 1928-01-01First ascentBlanchet, Mooser & Supersaxo, 1928.
Leads to foresummit (3830m) on North Ridge, along the ridge to summit.
SE side
SE Ridge. PD/G3; 2a/I, 45°; 1140m, 4,5-5h from Almageller hut. 1856-08-26First ascentPeter Joseph Zurbriggen & Jakob Christian Heuser, 1856-08-26.
Old normal route via S Face and SE Ridge. Easier but much longer than the new normal route.
  • Moran 10b
  • SAC 4/5 1002 PD+
Weissmiessattel3406
  • SAC 4/5 1001 F

Pizzo d'Andolla - Joderhorn

Portjengrat3653
  • Pizzo d'Andolla (3653m)
  • Portjenhorn (3567m)
Mittelrück3363
Sonnighorn3487
Latelhorn3198
Jazzihorn3227
Joderhorn3035