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Valais - Mountains

Breithorn (NW), Klein Matterhorn. Breithorn and Klein Matterhorn seen from Gandegg hut.

Breithorn and Klein Matterhorn seen from Gandegg hut. Source: Canon Ixus 400, (c) Ari Paulin , licensed under (c) 2004 Ari Paulin. Shot on 2004-08-08 in Breithorn, Zermatt, Wallis, Switzerland (Google maps).

Western Pennine Alps are located between Col du Gross St.Bernhard and Val d'Hérens. The most important peak of the area is Grand Combin, a separate massif in the west. It forms a link between Pennine Alps and Mont Blanc Group. Other important peaks of the area include Mont Vélan (3731m), Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m), Pigne d'Arolla (3796m) and Mont Collon (3637m).

Located in the westernmost part of Pennine Alps, to the south of Grand Combin and to the west of Tête Blanche. Most convenient access is from the road leading through Grand St. Bernhard pass.

Huge snow peak with variety of classic ascents.

France Alps Western Alps - Pennine Alps - Western Pennine Alps - Grand Combin Located on the north side of Chamonix valley.

  • Combin de Grafeneire (4314m)
  • Combin de Valsorey (4184m)
  • Aiguille du Croissant (4320m)
  • Combin de la Tsessette (4141m)
1857
Grand Combin, Corridor Route,
First ascent		 Corridor Route: Benjamin Felley, Maurice Felley and Jouvence Bruchez
1872-09-16
Grand Combin, South Flank of Combin de Valsorey,
First ascent		 South Flank of Combin de Valsorey: J.H. Isler & Joseph Gillioz
1884-09-01
Grand Combin, Meitingrat,
First ascent		 Meitingrat: C. Boisviel, D. Balleys & S. Henry
1933
Grand Combin, NW Face of Combin de Grafenerie,
First ascent		 NW Face of Combin de Grafenerie: E.R.Blanchet & K.Moore
1958-05-21
Grand Combin, NW Face of Combin de Valsorey,
First ascent		 NW Face of Combin de Valsorey: Egbert Eidher & Erich Vanis
1958-09-08
Grand Combin, NW Flank of Combin de Grafeneire,
First ascent		 NW Flank of Combin de Grafeneire: Henry Bruchez, Hilaire Dumeulin, Louis Maret & René Michaud
Combin de Grafeneire, NW side
  • Panossiérehütte, (2645m) via Plateau des Maisons Blanches, 4h. Access to hut from Fionnay.
NW Flank of Combin de Grafeneire. III PD; 45°, I; 1650m, 6-8h from Panossiérehütte (2645m). Henry Bruchez, Hilaire Dumeulin, Louis Maret & René Michaud, 1958-09-08.

Biner #218; SAC 2 #338; AC West #15a; Vaucher #24; Moran #37b

Corridor Route. PD/G4; 45°; 1650m, 6-7h from Panossiérehütte. Benjamin Felley, Maurice Felley and Jouvence Bruchez, 1857.
Old normal route. Technically easiest route, but very serious (comparable to Russion Roulette) due to ice fall danger when crossing accross NW face under big seracs.
NW Face of Combin de Grafenerie. Ice, AD+; 50 (occasionally steeper on seracs)°; 1450m, 5h from Valsorey hut. E.R.Blanchet & K.Moore, 1933.
Combin de Valsorey, NW side
NW Face of Combin de Valsorey. D/D+; 60°, III; 700m, 4h. 5-7h from Valsorey hut. Egbert Eidher & Erich Vanis, 1958-05-21.
Route starts at 3550m.

Biner #219; SAC 2 #349; AC West #16c; Moran #37c

Combin de Valsorey, South side
Meitingrat (Meitin Ridge, West Ridge des Combin de Valsorey). Mixed, AD; 3c/III, mostly II and easier; 1300m, 5-6,5h from Valsorey hut, 7-8h from Panossiérehütte. C. Boisviel, D. Balleys & S. Henry, 1884-09-01.
Either from Valsorey hut (3030m) via glacier du Meitin to Col du Meitin or from Panossiérehütte via Plateau des Maisons Blanches to Col du Meitin. Bivoac hut B. Musso is located on the southern slopes of Grand Combin above Valsorey hut.

Biner #220; SAC 2 #348; AC West #16b; Moran #37a; Vaucher #44

South Flank of Combin de Valsorey (SW Flanke). Mixed, PD+; 45°, II and easier; 1300m, 5-6h from Valsorey hut. J.H. Isler & Joseph Gillioz, 1872-09-16.

Biner #221; SAC 2 #347; AC West #16a

  • Grand Combin. Traverse South flank/Normal route by Hartmut Bielefeldt.
Traverse. D; VI+; 13,5h to bridge along the road to Cabane de Combin (2045m), additional 1,5h to the hut.
Combin de Valsorey, Meitingrat (5h) Combin de Grafenerie Aiguille du Croissan (4243m) Combin de la Tsessette from Col du Croissant (1,5h) Tour de Boussine, Arête de Boussine (SE Ridge) descend to Glacier de Boussine

Biner #222

North-South chain located on Arolla and Dix valleys watershed. Mostly suitable for rock climbing, but generally the quality of rock is far from perfect.

Cheilon - Pigne d'Arolla

reasonably famous rock and ice peaks that are the main objectives for parties based in central central part of western Valais Alps. Arolle is conveniently located base for climbs in this range. Emphasis of the climbing is on snow, ice and mixed. Peaks are lower than the more famous ones around Zermatt, none reaches up to 4000m, and routes generally somewhat shorter. Still, there are several worthwhile routes.

The highest peak between Grand Combing and Dent d'Hérens. Most interesting feature is 500m high NW face with mixed routes between AD+ and TD/TD+.

AC West #40

North face is one the best known features in western Valais Alps an d has routes around 600m high between grades AD+ and TD/TD+. Central Couloir is a classic.

AC West #41

North face
North face. Ice/mixed,

Vaucher #62

AC West #42

North face
North face. Ice/mixed,

Vaucher #46

Located in Arolla valley.Most interesting feature for climbers is the 1100m North Face.
1867-07-31
Mont Collon, SE flank and South ridge,
First ascent		 SE flank and South ridge: H. Baumann, G. Foster & J. Kronig
1876-08-03
Mont Collon, West Ridge,
First ascent		 West Ridge: A. Cust, F. Gardiner, H. & P. Knubel
1895-08-13
Mont Collon, Hopkinson,
First ascent		 Hopkinson: Hopkinson, Maitre & Maitre
1923-07-20
Mont Collon, Gracey,
First ascent		 Gracey: Gracey, Pralong & Pralong
West side
West Ridge. AD; II; 500m. A. Cust, F. Gardiner, H. & P. Knubel, 1876-08-03.

AC West #96a

South side
SE flank and South ridge. PD+/AD-. H. Baumann, G. Foster & J. Kronig, 1867-07-31.

AC West #96b

North face
Glaciated face facing Arolla
Hopkinson (Left-hand Spur with Gracey Start). Ice, D/D+. Hopkinson, Maitre & Maitre, 1895-08-13.

AC West #96g; Vaucher #79

Gracey (Right-hand Spur with Hopkinson Start). Ice, TD-; 100m. Gracey, Pralong & Pralong, 1923-07-20.

AC West #96j

Col Collon - Theodulpass

To the east of this chain are located Grand Cornier and Dent Blanche. They are connected to and Téte Blanche - Dent d'Hérens - Matterhorn chain on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Further north, between Grand Cornier and Matter valley lie chain Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weishorn - Bishorn.

West of Val d'Hérens lies mountain chain Monte Brule - Bouquetins - Aiguille de la Tsa - Dent de Perroc and Dents the Veisivi. There are no 4000 peaks with Veisivi being the high point with 3838m. Access is shortest from Arolla.

To the east of this chain are located Grand Cornier and Dent Blanche. They are connected to and Téte Blanche - Dent d'Hérens - Matterhorn chain on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Dent Blanche and Dent d'Hérens both have several good routes but the undisputed king of this chain is the rocky pyramid of Matterhorn. Despite fixed ropes, it is still one of the hard 4000m peaks with Normal route graded at AD- and featuring 1400m of ascent. Access to western part of the chain is either from Zinal in the North, d'Hérens valley in the west, Aosta or Breuil-Cervinia in the south or Zermatt is the northeast. Apart from Matterhorn, approaches are typically quite long.

Further north, between Grand Cornier and Matter valley lie chain Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weishorn - Bishorn. Classically beautiful Weisshorn has several long ridge routes while Obergabelhorn and Zinalrothorn have the best rock quality of the 4000m peaks around Zermat. Access to the climbs is from Zinal on the NW or Randa, Täsch or Zermatt in east.

Bouquetins - Dents de Perroc group

Section between Col ollon and Col d'Hérens. No really big or famous peaks, but the highest summits still rise close to 3900m. The area features the best rock climbing in western Valais Alps on sound rock. North side of Monte Brule is the only place in the group where ice routes still persist.

SAC 3 #112-119

AC West #136; SAC 3 #133-158

SAC 3 #159-182

SAC 3 #213-228

SAC 3 #229-242

Northern section of the range between Hérens and Anniviers valleys. Grand Cornier is the highest peak in the group and by far the best known climbing objective. Pointes de Mourti also has some worthwhile routes.

Superb glacier pass between Grand Cornier and Dent Blanche. SAC bivouac hut is located in the col.

AC West #H37a & b

1865-06-16
Grand Cornier, East ridge,
First ascent		 East ridge: C. ALmer, F. Biner, M. Croz & E. Whymper
1873-07-16
Grand Cornier, NW ridge,
First ascent		 NW ridge: T. Bornand & E. Peter
1879-08-18
Grand Cornier, SW ridge,
First ascent		 SW ridge: A. Barren, F. Corbett, J & JP. Langen
1932-08-08
Grand Cornier, NE face,
First ascent		 NE face: L. Devies & J. Lagarde
NW ridge
NW ridge. III AD-/G6; 3b/III; 1150m. T. Bornand & E. Peter, 1873-07-16.

AC West #135a; Hochtouren #43

SW ridge
  • Col de la Dent Blanche
SW ridge. III AD/AD+/G7; 3c. A. Barren, F. Corbett, J & JP. Langen, 1879-08-18.
Best ridge on the peak

AC West #135c; Vaucher #28

NE face
  • Mountet hut
NE face. TD; 550m, 5-6h. L. Devies & J. Lagarde, 1932-08-08.

AC West #135e

East ridge
  • Mountet hut
East ridge. III AD; 3b; 1100m, 6-8h. C. ALmer, F. Biner, M. Croz & E. Whymper, 1865-06-16.

AC West #135b

AC West #143; SAC 3 #249-251

AC West #144; SAC 3 #252-256

Rock climbs on 500m south face between D+ and ED.

One of the big mountains in Pennine Alps. Massive pyramid with four main ridges, each one of them a classic ascent. East and South faces consist of steep broken rock. North (NE) and West (NW) faces in turn offer superb technical ice and mixed climbs. Access is usually from Bouquetins (SW) or from Bertol, Mountet or Schönbiel huts.

1862-07-18
Dent Blanche, Wandlügrat,
First ascent		 Wandlügrat: Thomas Stuart Kennedy, William Wigram, Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johan Konig
1882-08-11
Dent Blanche, Viereselgrat,
First ascent		 Viereselgrat: Ulrich Almer, A. Pollinger, J.Stafford Anderson & G.P.Baker
1899-07-29
Dent Blanche, Ferpèclegrat,
First ascent		 Ferpèclegrat: A Pollinger & W.Gröbli
1928-07-20
Dent Blanche, North Ridge,
First ascent		 North Ridge: A. & Georges, D Pilley & I. Richards
1932-08-27
Dent Blanche, Original,
First ascent		 Original: K.Schneider & F.Singer
1996-07-12
Dent Blanche, Vaucher,
First ascent		 Vaucher: Michel & Yvette Vaucher
South Ridge
  • Dent Blache hut (=Cabane Roussier, 3507m). Approach 1700m, 5-7h from Ferpècle car park via La Forclaz. Also from Schönbielhütte to Wandflülücke (2h, PD).
Wandlügrat (S Ridge). IV AD/G5; III, 35°; 850m, 3-6h from Dent Blache hut. Thomas Stuart Kennedy, William Wigram, Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johan Konig, 1862-07-18.
Normal route. The easiest and most popular route, both in ascent and in descent. From hut to Wandfluelücke (3703m). Through couloir to South Ridge. Grand Gendarme is turned on the left via Couloir de la Mort (direct IV+). Further along firn ridge to the summit. Descent to Ferpècle (5h).

Biner #350; SAC 3 #274,275; Goedeke #pp 117; AC West #146a; Moran #32a; Hochtouren #41; Vaucher #56

  • Dent Blanche (4357 m). South Ridge (Normal route) AD. Report 20.-21. August 1998 by Hartmut Bielefeldt.
East Ridge
  • Mountet hut (2886m) Also possible from Schönbiel hut over Col de Zinal (3490m).
Viereselgrat (East (ENE) Ridge, quatre ânes, Mountetgrat). IV D; III+ and III; 1500m, 11-15h from Mountet hut. Ulrich Almer, A. Pollinger, J.Stafford Anderson & G.P.Baker, 1882-08-11.
Long exposed and serious climb rising from Grand Cornier glacier. Poor rock. Routes coming from Mountet and Schönbiel huts join above P. 3975

Biner #351; SAC 3 #291,292; AC West #146b; Moran #32c; Vaucher #81

Ferpéclegrat (West Ridge)
  • Either Dent Blache hut (=Cabane Roussier, 3507m, approach 1700m, 5-7h from Ferpècle car park via La Forclaz) or from Bivouac Dent Blanche (3540m) in Col de la Dent Blanche.
Ferpèclegrat (West Ridge). D+; IV+, IV and III; 850m, 7h. A Pollinger & W.Gröbli, 1899-07-29.
Most difficult of the three main routes. Dry rock is required on the steeper passages. Dries slowly.

Biner #354; SAC 3 #280; AC West #146o; Moran #32b; Vaucher #68

NE Face
One of the great alpine mixed faces. Rarely climbed despite the fact that due to high altitude reasonable conditions can often be found even in the middle of summer.
  • Bivouac Dent Blanche (3540m) in Col de la Dent Blanche
Original. TD+/ED1; V/V+; 950m, 12-15h from Bivouac Dent Blanche. K.Schneider & F.Singer, 1932-08-27.
Mixed line on NW Face, joins Ferpeclegrat below the summit. Most logical line on the face, maximizes the ice part.

AC West #146c; Vaucher #99

Vaucher. ED1/2; V/V+; 950m, 12-15h from Bivouac Dent Blanche. Michel & Yvette Vaucher, 1996-07-12.
Straighter and more difficult line than the original (TD) route of NNE Face. Mixed on mostly ice/snow.

SAC 3 #288; AC West #146d

North Ridge
Shortest and most difficult of four main ridges.
  • Bivouac Dent Blanche (3540m) in Col de la Dent Blanche
North Ridge (NNW Ridge). TD-/TD; V+; 950m, 12-15h. A. & Georges, D Pilley & I. Richards, 1928-07-20.
More difficult and less popular than other three ridges.

AC West #146f; Vaucher #87

NW Face
800m, TD-ED1/2. Safety requires rock to be frozen solid.
  • Bivouac Dent Blanche (3540m) in Col de la Dent Blanche

AC West #151

AC West #152

Beautiful and complex mountain neighbouring Matterhorn and connected to it with sharp arete of East Ridge. Four main ridges and and big north face. North face is one of Welzenbach's most famous ice climbs and considered more difficult than Matterhorn north face. Rock is generally poor everywhere.
1863-08-12
Dent d'Hérens, SW side & West Ridge,
First ascent		 SW side & West Ridge: F.Crauford Grave, W.E. Hall, R.S.MacDonald, W.Woodmans, Melchior Anderegg, peter Perren & Jean Pierre Cochat via West Ridge.
1906-07-30
Dent d'Hérens, East Ridge,
First ascent		 East Ridge: Franz & Joseph Lochmatter & V.J.E.Ryan
1910-08-18
Dent d'Hérens, WNW Face,
First ascent		 WNW Face: M. Heywood, K. Knubel & G. Withrop Young
1925-08-10
Dent d'Hérens, Welzenbach,
First ascent		 Welzenbach: Willo Welzenbach & Eugen Allwein
1981-08-16
Dent d'Hérens, Gabarrou,
First ascent		 Gabarrou: Patrick Gabarrou & Romain Vogler
SW side
SW side & West Ridge. PD+/AD-/G4; I-II; 600m, 3h from Tiefenmattenjoch, 1400m, 5-6h from Aosta hut. F.Crauford Grave, W.E. Hall, R.S.MacDonald, W.Woodmans, Melchior Anderegg, peter Perren & Jean Pierre Cochat via West Ridge., 1863-08-12.
Normal route. Long glacier tour via Glacier des Grandes Murailles and Tiefenmattenjoch

Biner #346; SAC 3 #1061; Goedeke #pp 169; AC West #154a; Moran #31a

Tiefmattengrat (West Ridge). III AD-; 3b.

AC West #154b; Moran #31b; Hochtouren #58; Vaucher #31

East Ridge
Steep mixed arete connecting Dent d'Hérens with Matterhorn. Lowest point on the ridge is Colle Tournenche (3479m).
  • From Benedetti bivouac hut (3490m) to Col Tournauche
East Ridge. D/G9; IV and III; 700m, climbing distance 2km, 8-10h from Col Tournauche. Franz & Joseph Lochmatter & V.J.E.Ryan, 1906-07-30.
Atrrocious rock.

Biner #347; SAC 3 #1070; AC West #154f; Moran #31e; Vaucher #85

West side
  • Schönbiel hütte
WNW Face. Snow/ice, AD/D/G6; III, 50°; 1500m, 6-9h. M. Heywood, K. Knubel & G. Withrop Young, 1910-08-18.
Normal route. Narrow triangular snow face providing sustained snow/ice climb. Best line varies from year to year depending crevasses and seracs.Normal route from Schönbiel hütte.

Biner #345; SAC 3 #1106; AC West #154c; Moran #31d

Gabarrou. D/TD-; 75°; 750m, 6-8h. Patrick Gabarrou & Romain Vogler, 1981-08-16.
Lower part follows ice strips trough the rocky section, then joins WNW Face for the upper part.

SAC 3 #1064; AC West #154d

North Face
Difficult mixed face divided into two steps by large snow shelf at 3/5 height.
  • From Bivacco Giorgio e Renzo Novella on Punta Maria Christina (3706m)
Welzenbach. TD+/G13; 90°, IV; 1300m, 10-15h. Willo Welzenbach & Eugen Allwein, 1925-08-10.
One of Welzenbach's most famous ice climbs. More difficult than Schmid route on Matterhorn north face, Seracs, difficult rock in the upper part.

Majestic peak in Swiss/Italian Border consisting of four ridges and four faces. There have been well over 400 deaths on the mountain, most of them occurring on the easiest Hörnligrat through stonefall.

1865-07-14
Matterhorn, Hörnligrat,
First ascent		 Hörnligrat: The party consisting of Edward Whymper (England), Peter Taugwalder (father), Peter Taugwalder (son), Charles Hudson (killed during descent), Francis Douglas (killed during descent), Douglas Hadow (killed during descent) and Michel Croz (killed during descent) (via Hörnligrat) won the race over Matterhorn against Carrel (via Liongrat). During the descent Hadow slipped pulling Croz off and Douglas and Hudson followed. Whymper and Peter Taugwalder Sr. hung on the same rope, but the rope snapped and the four men fell to their deaths. Whymper's book "Scrambles Amongst the Alps - The Day the Rope Broke" by R.W. Clark recount the dramatic first ascent.
1865-07-17
Matterhorn, Liongrat,
First ascent		 Liongrat: J.A. Carrel and J.B. Bic
1879-09-03
Matterhorn, Zmuttgrat,
First ascent		 Zmuttgrat: Albert Frederick Mummery, Alexander Burgener, A. Gentinetta and Johann Petrus. Mummery's book "My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus" recounts the first ascent.
1962-08-13
Matterhorn, West Face,
First ascent		 West Face: Giovanni Ottin and Renato Daugin were the first to climb the whole west face to the top of Matterhorn without crossing to the Zmutt ridge
1965-02-22
Matterhorn, Bonatti Direct,
First ascent		 Bonatti Direct: Walter Bonatti
1969-07-17
Matterhorn, Zmuttnase,
First ascent		 Zmuttnase: L.Cerrutti & A.Cogna
1981-08-01
Matterhorn, Piola-Steiner Direttissima,
First ascent		 Piola-Steiner Direttissima: Piola & Steiner.

World Mountaineering #pp 50

  • Clark R.W.: Scrambles Amongst the Alps - The Day the Rope Broke.
East Face
Rarely climbed face above Furggen glacier.
  • From Hörnlihütte (3260m). Access from Zermatt or from Schwarzee lift station. Solvay hut is located at 4003m along the Hörnligrat. Access to Furggengrat from Boiwak Bossi (3300m) in Breuljoch.
Hörnligrat (NE Ridge). III AD-/G5/NZ3+/4/nccs III; III,A0; 1200m, climbing distance 1700m, 5-6h from Hörnlihut (3260m). The party consisting of Edward Whymper (England), Peter Taugwalder (father), Peter Taugwalder (son), Charles Hudson (killed during descent), Francis Douglas (killed during descent), Douglas Hadow (killed during descent) and Michel Croz (killed during descent) (via Hörnligrat) won the race over Matterhorn against Carrel (via Liongrat). During the descent Hadow slipped pulling Croz off and Douglas and Hudson followed. Whymper and Peter Taugwalder Sr. hung on the same rope, but the rope snapped and the four men fell to their deaths. Whymper's book "Scrambles Amongst the Alps - The Day the Rope Broke" by R.W. Clark recount the dramatic first ascent., 1865-07-14.
Normal route. First ascent route and by far the most popular route on Matterhorn. Very famous and popular, crowded during the season. There are fixed ropes along the route. Using them difficulty is III-, A0, mostly II (sustained). IV+ if climbed free. Summit slopes mixed.

Biner #341,342; SAC 3 #1106,1107; Goedeke #pp 162; AC West #173a; Moran #30a; Hochtouren #60; Vaucher #48

East face
  • Hörnli hut
East Face Direct. TD; 1000m, 15h.

AC West #173b

Furggengrat (SE Ridge)
  • From Biwak Bossi (3300m) in Breuljoch
Furggengrat (SE Ridge). D/TD-/G12?; IV+ (direct variant VI); 1150m, 8-12h. Piacenza, Carrell and Gaspard, 1911-09-09. Walter Bonatti & Roberto Bingnami, 1953-03-21.
Most technical and least climbed of the ridges. Also probably most dangerous due to unstable rock. On good conditions entirely on rock.

SAC 3 #1108; AC West #173c; Vaucher #92

  • Furggengrat. From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps.
North Face
  • From Hörnlihütte (3260m). Access from Zermatt or from Schwarzee lift station.
Schmid. TD/ED1/G12; IV+/V, M5 AI1-2/55°; 1100m, 10-12h. Franz and Toni Schmid, 1931-08-01. Dieter Marchart, 1959. Allmen & Etter, 1962-02-04. Yvette Vaucher, 1965.
Classic. One of the four classic north faces in the Alps. Steep ice with IV and V on rock. Unstable rock. Starting point Hörnli hut

AC West #17k; Vaucher #89

Bonatti Direct (Direct Solo). Mixed, ED2/3; VI+,A1. Walter Bonatti, 1965-02-22.

AC West #173l

Zmuttnase. ED+/G16; VI+,A3, AI1/50°; 1218m, 2-3 days. L.Cerrutti & A.Cogna, 1969-07-17.

AC West #173m; Vaucher #100

Piola-Steiner Direttissima. ED+; 90-°/M5, 6b/b+,A0; 1000m. Piola & Steiner., 1981-08-01.

AC West #173n

South Face
  • From Breuil in Italy via Abruzzi hut (2802m). Liongrat has Carrell hut (3829m).
Liongrat (South-West Ridge, Italian Ridge). III AD/D/G6/Rus 4A/B; III,A0/IV; 650m/1680m, 5h from Carrell hut to summit. J.A. Carrel and J.B. Bic, 1865-07-17.
Classic route, often used in descent. Less crowded than Hörnligrat.

Biner #344; SAC 3 #1110,1111; Goedeke #pp 162; AC West #173i; Moran #30b; Hochtouren #59; Vaucher #49

  • Liongrat. From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps.
West Face
Highest face on the Matterhorn.
  • From Schönbielhütte (2694m, 2,5 h from ski lift Schwarzsee, 4h from Zertmatt). Zmuttgrat possible from Hörnlihütte (AD+, 2h, #1114 in Walliser Alpen Band 3) or from Schönbielhütte (2694m).
Zmuttgrat (NW Ridge). D/G9; 3c/IV and III, 50°; 1200m, 7-9h from Hörnlihut. Albert Frederick Mummery, Alexander Burgener, A. Gentinetta and Johann Petrus. Mummery's book "My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus" recounts the first ascent., 1879-09-03.
Good classic ridge with no fixed gear, one of the greatest mixed climbs in the Alps. Much more committing than Hörnli or Lion ridges. Seldom in condition. Either from Hörnlihütte or from Schönbielhütte

Biner #343; SAC 3 #1113; AC West #173j; Moran #30c; Vaucher #74

  • Mummery Albert Frederick: My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.
West Face. Giovanni Ottin and Renato Daugin were the first to climb the whole west face to the top of Matterhorn without crossing to the Zmutt ridge, 1962-08-13.
  • West Face. From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps.

Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weishorn - Bishorn

Pointe Zinal - Mont Durand - Obergabelhorn - Wellenkuppe - Zinalrothorn - Schalihorn - Weisshorn - Bishorn - Brunegghorn

Access to Arbengrat of Obergabelhorn.

SAC 3 #553, 554

One of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps. Zermatt side is almost completely rock while Zinal (north) side is icy. Four major ridges and beautiful icy north face. Although lower than neighbouring Dent Blanche and Matterhorn, the quality of climbs is excellent.
1865-07-07
Obergabelhorn, Coeurgrat,
First ascent		 Coeurgrat: Lord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder & Josef Vienin
1874-08-23
Obergabelhorn, Arbengrat,
First ascent		 Arbengrat: H.Seymour Haase, E.Hulton, Johan von Bergen, J.Moser & Peter Rubi
1887-09-03
Obergabelhorn, Gabelhorngrat,
First ascent		 Gabelhorngrat: Edward Davidson, J.W.Hartley, Johan Jaun & Peter Rubi
1890-08-01
Obergabelhorn, ENE Ridge from Wellenkuppe,
First ascent		 ENE Ridge from Wellenkuppe: L. Norman-Neruda & Christian Klucker
1892-09-28
Obergabelhorn, South Face,
First ascent		 South Face: David Magouignaz & J.P. Fonran
1930-07-30
Obergabelhorn, North Face,
First ascent		 North Face: Hans Kiener & Rudolf Schwarzgruber
South side
  • From Mountet hut (2886m) via Mont Durand to Arbenjoch (3570m, Arben Bivouac hut)
Arbengrat (WSW Ridge). III AD; 4b/III+; 500m/1200m. 2,5-3h from Arben Biwak to summit. H.Seymour Haase, E.Hulton, Johan von Bergen, J.Moser & Peter Rubi, 1874-08-23.
Very useful as descent in a traverse. From Mountet hut (2886m) via Mont Durand to Arbenjoch (3570m, Arben Bivouac hut). From there 2,5-3h to summit.

Biner #363; SAC 3 #543; AC East #3c; Moran #33d; Hochtouren #56

Gabelhorngrat (SE Ridge). AD+; 850m, 4h from Arben bivouac hut (3224m), 3,75h from Obergabeljoch (3597m). Edward Davidson, J.W.Hartley, Johan Jaun & Peter Rubi, 1887-09-03.

Moran #33f; SAC 3 #538; Vaucher #91

South Face. Rock, AD/D; IV and III; 850m, 6h from Arben bivouac hut. David Magouignaz & J.P. Fonran, 1892-09-28.
Firm gneiss

Biner #364; SAC 3 #539; AC East #3b; Moran #33e; Hochtouren #57

North side
North face of Obergabelhorn rises some 500m above the glaciers below with the average angle of 55° between NNW Ridge (Coeurgrat) and NNE Ridge (from Wellenkuppe). It is one of the classic ice faces of the Pennine Alps, both steeper and more difficult than NNE Face of Lenzspitze.
  • Mountet hut (2886m). Approach along Coeurgrat route
Coeurgrat (NNW Ridge). Mixed, IV AD; 3c/III, 50°; 6h from Mountet hut (2886m). Lord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder & Josef Vienin, 1865-07-07.
From glacier Durand and NNW ridge. Mixed with loose rock, not recommended in descent.

Biner #361; SAC 3 #546; AC East #3d; Moran #33b

North Face. Ice, III-IV D+/TD-; IV/AI2 M2/55°, III; 500m, 2,5-4h; 1250m from from Mountet hut. Hans Kiener & Rudolf Schwarzgruber, 1930-07-30.
Classic. One of the nicest ice faces in Pennine Alps. From Mountet hut head southeast across the Glacier de Mountet to the base of the North Couloir. Follow the Couloir up to the base of the face, pass the bergschrund and climb the face (500m, average angle 55°). Last 100m are significantly steeper, but the route avoids it (TD, loose rock). Also possible from Rothorn hut (3198m).

Biner #362; SAC 3 #548; Waeber #439; AC East #3e; Moran #33c; Hochtouren #55; Vaucher #84

East side
  • Rothorn hut (3198m). Approach from Zermatt, 1700m, 5h.
ENE Ridge from Wellenkuppe. III AD; 4a/3c,A0/III,A0, 50°; 850m, 5-6h from Rothorn Hut. L. Norman-Neruda & Christian Klucker, 1890-08-01.
Normal route. Most popular route, mostly on snow and ice. From Rothorn hut at first to Wellenkuppe (PD, II+, 2,5h) and further traverse to the summit (another 1,5-2,5h). The most difficult part is passing the Grand Gendarme (3870m) between Wellenkuppe and Obergabelhorn (III,A0).

Biner #360; SAC 3 #568; Goedeke #pp 115; AC East #3a; Moran #33a; Hochtouren #55

East side
  • Rothorn hut (3198m). Approach from Zermatt, 1700m, 5h.
East flank and ENE Ridge. PD; II+; 2,5h.

AC East #3a; Hochtouren #55; SAC 3 #568

NE side
NE side. Ice, D; 3h from Rothornhütte.

SAC 3 #574

NW side
NW rinne. Ice, TD+; 80°; 4-6h.

SAC 3 #632.3

Often abbreviated to Rothorn. One of the most popular climbing peaks around Zermatt and Zinal. Has three major ridges (north, south and SE), all of which are worthwhile climbs. Rock is mostly good gneiss.
1864-08-22
Zinalrothorn, North Ridge,
First ascent		 North Ridge: L. Stephen, F. Grove, J. & M. Anderegg
1872-09-05
Zinalrothorn, SE Ridge and Gabel notch,
First ascent		 SE Ridge and Gabel notch: Alexander Burgener, Ferdinand Imseg, Franz Andermatten, Clinton T. Dent & G.A Passingham
1901-09-16
Zinalrothorn, Rothorngrat,
First ascent		 Rothorngrat: C.R.Gross & R.Taugwalder
1928-09-05
Zinalrothorn, Kanzelgrat,
First ascent		 Kanzelgrat: E.R.Blanchet & Kaspar Mooser
1945-08-06
Zinalrothorn, East Face Direct,
First ascent		 East Face Direct: André Roch, Rober Gréloz & Ruedi Schmidt
South Side
  • Rothorn hut (3178m), hut climb 1700m, 5h from Zermatt. Also possible from Mountet hut.
Rothorngrat (SW Ridge Integral). III AD+/D/G8; 4c/IV and III+; 370m, 3-4h from Oberrotjoch. 1100m, 7h from Rothorn hut. C.R.Gross & R.Taugwalder, 1901-09-16.
One of the finest ridge climbs in the Alps. Excellent rock.

Biner #369; SAC 3 #596; AC East #6b; Moran #34c; Vaucher #53

SE Ridge and Gabel notch. III AD-/AD; 3b/III-, mostly II and I; 1050m, 4-5h from Rothorn hut. Alexander Burgener, Ferdinand Imseg, Franz Andermatten, Clinton T. Dent & G.A Passingham, 1872-09-05.
Normal route. Exposed rock climbing III-, mostly II and I.

Biner #367; AC East #6a; SAC 3 #594; Goedeke #pp 111; Moran #34a; Hochtouren #53; Vaucher #23

Kanzelgrat (Complete SE Ridge). TD-/G10; V and IV+; 4-5h. E.R.Blanchet & Kaspar Mooser, 1928-09-05.
More difficult and direct finish to normal route.

AC East #6e; Moran #34d; Hochtouren #54; Vaucher #71

East Face
800m high
East Face Direct. TD; V+; 800m, 8h (face only). André Roch, Rober Gréloz & Ruedi Schmidt, 1945-08-06.
Loose rock

AC East #6d

North Ridge
  • Mountet hut
North Ridge. III AD/G7; 3b/III/III+ and II; 1400m from Mountet hut. L. Stephen, F. Grove, J. & M. Anderegg, 1864-08-22.
From Mountet hut via Mountet glacier

Biner #368; SAC 3 #589; AC East #6c; Moran #34b; Hochtouren #52

Starting point of Schalihorn of Weisshorn. Schali bivouac hut is located just above the col.

SAC 3 #657, 658, 659

Classically beautiful symmetrical mountain with three sharp main ridges and faces. NE face is covered in snow and ice, the rest of the mountain is predominantly rocky. All ascents are long mixed routes only suitable for experienced mountaineers. East ridge is the easiest route, both in ascent and descent. Also Northeast face has several possible ice/snow routes. These are however endangered by ice fall (NE rib least so).
1861-08-19
Weisshorn, East Ridge,
First ascent		 East Ridge: John Tyndall and guides J. J. Bennen and U. Wenger
1895-09-02
Weisshorn, Schaligrat,
First ascent		 Schaligrat: Joseph Biner, Ambros Imboden and Edward Broome.
1898-09-21
Weisshorn, North Ridge,
First ascent		 North Ridge: H. Biehly and H. Burgener
1900-09-07
Weisshorn, Youngrat,
First ascent		 Youngrat: Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Benoít & Louis Theytaz
1980-09-16
Weisshorn, NE Face direct,
First ascent		 NE Face direct: Henri Rouguette, Patrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner
1983-07-17
Weisshorn, East Face of North-east Buttress,
First ascent		 East Face of North-east Buttress: Giuseppe Bonfanti & Renzo Quagliotto
East Ridge
  • From Randa (1407m) to Weisshorn hut (2932m, 1500m, 5h). From there 2,5-3 to the bottom of the face on Bisgletcher. Also possible from Turtmannhütte, but longer.
East Ridge. III AD/G5; III- (places), mostly II and I, 45°; 1600m, 6-7h from Weisshorn hut. John Tyndall and guides J. J. Bennen and U. Wenger, 1861-08-19.
Normal route. The climb must be started from the valley (Randa 1407m), altogether 3100m of ascent. The easiest route on the mountain and most popular both in ascent and in descent. When there's a lot of snow, the rocky section of the ridge may be tricky. In that it might be possible to avoid it by downclimbing or rappelling down the eastern part of NE face.

Biner #376; SAC 3 #672; Goedeke #pp 107; AC East #12a; Moran #35a; Hochtouren #50

NE Face
Face framed with East and NNW ridges and almost completely covered and ice. Routes are around 1000m high. Divided in two by NE spur which is also the route most sheltered from ice avalanches.
  • From Randa (1407m) to Weisshorn hut (2932m, 1500m, 5h). From there 2,5-3 to the bottom of the face on Bisgletcher. Also possible from Turtmannhütte, but longer.
NE Rib (NE Buttress). Ice, IV D; 48°; 1000m, 7-10h from Weisshorn hut. (original route) by Kitson, Ch. & U. Almer, 1871. G.W.Young, Oliver Perry Smith & Jos Knubel (Nowadays used variation), 1909-08-31.
Classic. Classic ice route

AC East #12e

East Face of North-east Buttress. Ice, D+/TD; 58°; 1000m, 6-8h. Giuseppe Bonfanti & Renzo Quagliotto, 1983-07-17.
Somewhat steeper than NE Buttress and has some mixed climbing in the lower part. Joins NE Buttress for the upper part. Only lower part has some objective danger.

AC East #12f; SAC 3 #687

NE Face direct. Ice, D+/TD; 55°; 1000m. Henri Rouguette, Patrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1980-09-16.
Climbs the serac direct (crux). If the seracs are avoided, the rest of the face is 55 degrees steep and D-.

AC East #12g; SAC 3 #688

South Ridge
  • from Schali bivouac
Schaligrat (South West Ridge, South Ridge). Rock, IV D; IV, 45; 750m, 5-7h from Schali bivouac. Joseph Biner, Ambros Imboden and Edward Broome., 1895-09-02.
Classic. Elegant rock route, reputable the finest route on Weisshorn.

Biner #378; SAC 3 #676; AC East #12b; Moran #35d

North Ridge
  • Cabane de Tracuit
North Ridge (NNW-Grat). AD+; III+, 45°; 450m from Weisshornjoch, 8h from Cabane de Tracuit. H. Biehly and H. Burgener, 1898-09-21.

Biner #377; SAC 3 #683; AC East #12d; Moran #35b; Hochtouren #49

West face
There are several other routes on the face graded at D or TD.
  • d'Ar Pitetta (2786m)
Youngrat (Young Rib on West Face). AD+/D-; 5a/4b,A0/IV; 6-8h from d'Ar Pitetta. Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Benoít & Louis Theytaz, 1900-09-07.
Most logical line on the face leading tho great gendarme on the North Ridge.

AC East #12e; Moran #35c; Vaucher #77

Northernmost 4000 peak on the west side of Mattertal, located north of Weisshorn. Not very independent summit. Normal route is easy, but long approach keeps the number of peak baggers at bay compared to Breithorn.
1884-08-18
Bishorn, NW flank,
First ascent		 NW flank: Joseph Imboden, J.M.Chantan, G.S.Barnes & R.Chessyre-Walker
1924-09-21
Bishorn, NE Face,
First ascent		 NE Face: Emile Robert Blanchet, Kaspar Mooser & Raphael Lochmatter
NW flank (NW face)
  • Tracuit hut (3256m), approach 1580m, 5h from Zinal (1680m) in Val de d'Anniviers
NW flank. II F/G1-2; I on the summit ridge; 930mm, 2-3h from Tracuit hut. Joseph Imboden, J.M.Chantan, G.S.Barnes & R.Chessyre-Walker, 1884-08-18.

Biner #379; SAC 3 #690; Goedeke #pp 105; AC East #13a; Moran #36a; Hochtouren #47

NE Face
  • From Turtmannhütte (2519m) via Bruneggjoch to base of the face (~3500m).
NE Face (via Olympia). D/G10; 50-58°, IV; 650m. Emile Robert Blanchet, Kaspar Mooser & Raphael Lochmatter, 1924-09-21.

Biner #380; SAC 3 #693; AC East #13b; Moran #36c; Hochtouren #47; Vaucher #67

NNE Flank
  • Topalihütte (2674m)
NNE Flank. Ice, TD; 56-58°; 250m, 4-5 from the hut.

SAC 3 #710; AC East #116c

Theodulpass - Monte Moro (Monte Rosa)

Monte Rosa Massif on the frontier crest between Switzerland. It is a complex massif with dozens of summits, sharp ridges and massive glaciers. Depending on the consideration of subsidiary peaks, there are 15 - 22 4000m peaks, high point being the Dufourspitze at 4634m, the second highest mountain in the Alps. Northern slopes is made of not overtly steep glaciers while the Italien Southeastern side is dominated by over 2000m high East Face.

Several of the high peaks have relatively easy normal routes. Breithorn is reputably the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps. Also Castor and Pollux are very popular. Traverse of all 4000m peaks is possible in 4-7 days from Klein Matterhorn cable car using the huts on the Italian side. This traverse can be done various ways, those in search of climbing challenges include W-E traverse of Breithorn (AD+) and traverse of Lyskamm (W-E, AD/AD+), both of which are avoidable if easier alternative is wanted. There are also plethora of harder routes, especially classic are North faces of Breithorn and Lyskamm and gigantic East Face of Monte Rosa. There are also hard rock ridge on Nordend, Dufourspitze and Signalkuppe.

Breithorn - Lyskamm

Chain running west to east between Theodulspass and Lysjoch. There are only five main peaks on the chain: Klein Matterhorn, Breithorn, Pollux, Castor and Lyskamm. That being said, both Breithorn and Lyskamm and broad peaks with several summits and sharp ridge crests. South side towards Italy is far less dramatic feature than steep north side, rising 700-1000m above wildly crevassed glaciers at its base and featuring numerous ice and mixed routes. Pollux and Castor are fear less intimidating.

Ski lift system aside, the easiest point to cross Frontier ridge between Grand St. Bernhard pass and Monte Moropass. F from both sides. Theodule hut is located just above the pass.

AC East #21

Minor peak very easily accessible from Zermatt with a ski lift which serves as a starting point for Breithorn.
North ridge
  • Trockener Steg lift station
North ridge. Mixed, AD; 50°, III; 860m, 6h. B. Neuhaus, A. & O. Supersaxo, 1904-07-24.

Hochtouren #70; AC East #22a; Vaucher #22

Most accessible 4000m peak around Zermatt. Normal route is short from Klein Matterhorn lift station and non-technical, considered the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps and correspondingly popular. For those seeking more demanding challenge, Traverse of the Crest is a classic both in its in entity and as half traverse. On the vast north side, Tritfjigrat and Younggrat offer mixed climbs along the ridges at around D whereas face routes are big ice and mixed faces around 1000m high and TD or more in difficulty. Some of these are objectively dangerous, Original and Welzenbach routes probably least so.

  • West summit (4164m)
  • Central summit (4159m)
  • East summit (4139m)
  • Gendarme 4106 (4106m)
  • Roccia Nera (4075m)
1869-09-15
Breithorn, Triftjigrat,
First ascent		 Triftjigrat: R. Fowler, P. Knubel & G. Ruppen
1888-07-27
Breithorn, NW and SW flanks,
First ascent		 NW and SW flanks: G. Pothero & G. Taugwalder
1906-08-18
Breithorn, Younggrat,
First ascent		 Younggrat: Knubel, Mayor, Robertson, Rubben & Young
1919-10-03
Breithorn, Original,
First ascent		 Original: Dietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otmar Supersaxo
1926-08-01
Breithorn, Welzenbach,
First ascent		 Welzenbach: Bachschmidt, Rigde & Welzenbach
1954-07-21
Breithorn, Vanis,
First ascent		 Vanis: Erich Vanis, Leo Graf & Klaus Kubiena
1960-07-29
Breithorn, Vanis (variant italiana),
First ascent		 Vanis (variant italiana): Cavallieri, Mellano & Perego
1979-09-29
Breithorn, Bethermin-Gabarrou,
First ascent		 Bethermin-Gabarrou: M. Bethermin & Patrick Gabarrou
1987
Breithorn, NNW Flank of East Summit,
First ascent		 NNW Flank of East Summit: Almer, Ascherson, Jossi, Kaufmann & Mothersill
West summit, North side
2,5km wide and 1100m high north face has an average angle of 51°. It is a complex face with both rock and ice features. There are host of routes, of which Triftjigrat, Younggrat and Bethmann-Hollweg/Supersaxo (with its different variations) are considered classics. Some of the routes are threatened by ice fall.
  • Gandegghütte (3029m), via Theodulsgletscher (2860m), slightly less than 2h
NW and SW flanks. Glacier, AD; 1300m, 5h from Gandegghütte. G. Pothero & G. Taugwalder, 1888-07-27.

Moran #29b; AC East #23b; SAC 4 #133

Original (Bethmann-Hollweg/Supersaxo, NNW Flank of West Summit). Ice/mixed, TD; IV or III (depending on variation and conditions), 60-70°; 1100m, 5-8h (face). Dietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otmar Supersaxo, 1919-10-03.
Pass the lower bergschrund immediately to the right of prominent rocks. Climb the ice to the right of rocks, then pass the rock band to gain the ice spur to the left of the rocks by climbing through the rock couloir below prominent ice ramp (mixed up to IV) to gain firn spur below second bergschrund ~3650m). Alternative start is to follow the direct variant by climbing immediately above bergschrund diagonally to the left over mixed terrain to get to the ice on the left of the rocky part (depending of the conditions up to 70° and IV). Then over the bergschrund and through ice field (60°) to gain summit rocks (III) and lower angled snow field above (45°).

Biner #420; SAC 4 #139; Moran #29g; AC East #23c

Welzenbach (NNW Flank). Ice/mixed, TD; 60°; 1100m, 5-8h (face). Bachschmidt, Rigde & Welzenbach, 1926-08-01.
Pass the lower bergschrund immediately to the right of prominent rocks. Climb the ice to the right of rocks to gain the prominent ice ramp (mixed up to 55-60°) to gain firn spur below second bergschrund ~3650m). Then over the bergschrund and through ice field (60°) to gain summit rocks (III) and lower angled snow field above (45°).Crux is the left-slanting couloir leaving lower ice field.
Bethermin-Gabarrou. Ice/mixed, TD-/TD; 1100m, 8-9h (face). M. Bethermin & Patrick Gabarrou, 1979-09-29.
Direct line up the face. Serious due to seracs.

AC East #23d

Triftjigrat (North Ridge). Mixed/ice, IV AD/D; III and II, 55°; 1150m, 8h from Gandegg hut. R. Fowler, P. Knubel & G. Ruppen, 1869-09-15.
Classic. Classic large scale mixed/ice ridge, easier alternative to NW face. From Gandegghütte to Triftjisattel (3250m, 2-2,5h). From there to Triftjiplateau (3750, 2-2,5h) and further through ice/snow slopes (55°) to rock barrier (III) and finally along easier angled snow slopes to the summit (2,5-3h from Triftjiplateau).

Biner #421; SAC 4 #141; Moran #29f; AC East #23e; Vaucher #52

West summit, SW side
  • From Klein Matterhorn lift station (3820m)
SW flank. Glacier, F/PD-/G1; 35°; 350m, 1-2h.
Normal route. Reputably the easiest route on a 4000m peak in the Alps. Very popular, possibly the busiest in the Alps. From the station of Klein Matterhorn lift (3883m). Glacier ascent, few crevasses. Traverse to middle summit is easy ridge traverse (F/PD).

Moran #29a; AC East #23a; SAC 4 #129; Hochtouren #71

West Summit from Plateau Rosa. Glacier, F; 3h.
Slightly less crowded alternative to the normal route. From Klein Matterhorn to Plateau Rosa (3820m) and further to West summit.
Traverse of Breithorn Crest W-E. Rock/mixed, III AD/AD+; 45-50°, IV.
Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)). From Klein Matterhorn to Rossi e Volante bivouac hut or to Val d' Ayas hut. This can serve as a more demanding start to traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. This is probably also around AD+. There are no equipped rappels (most part of the route can be downclimbed).

SAC 4 #193; Vaucher #39

Central summit, North side
Several routes starting from Breithornglacier between grades D+ and TD+
  • Gandegghütte via Theodulsgletscher (2860m)

SAC 4 #150-155; AC East #23g-k

Central summit, South side
150m high SE face is mostly rocky with some ice/snow couloirs and routes between AD and D. SW face from Plateau Rosa is much easier at PD.
  • From Klein Matterhorn lift station (3820m)

SAC 4 #144,156-161; AC East #23f

Central Summit from Plateau Rosa and traverse to West summit (SSW Spur). Glacier, PD; 35-40°; 450m, 4h roundtrip from Klein Matterhorn.
From Klein Matterhorn to Plateau Rosa (3820m) and further to Central summit

Moran #29b; AC East #23f; SAC 4 #161 (144)

East summit, North side
650m high face rising from Breithorn glacier. Most popular route of the face is classic Younggrat.

SAC 4 #166-171

Younggrat (N-Grat des E-Gipfels, Chli Triftji, North Ridge of West Twin). Mixed, IV D/TD; IV/5.4, 55°; 1450m, 8h from Gandegg hut; 750m, 6-7,5h from Rossi e Volante bivouac hut. Traverse to West summit additional 3-3,5h. Knubel, Mayor, Robertson, Rubben & Young, 1906-08-18.

Biner #422; SAC 4 #167; Moran #29h; AC East #23m; Vaucher #70

NNW Flank of East Summit. Ice, D/TD-; 700m. Almer, Ascherson, Jossi, Kaufmann & Mothersill, 1987.
Vanis (North_east Couloir). Ice/mixed, D+/TD; III/4, IV+; 650m, 6-8h. Erich Vanis, Leo Graf & Klaus Kubiena, 1954-07-21.

SAC 4 #169; AC East #23n

Vanis (variant italiana). Ice/mixed, III/4, V+; 650m, 6-8h. Cavallieri, Mellano & Perego, 1960-07-29.

SAC 4 #169; AC East #23n

East summit, South side
Half-traverse of Breithorn Crest E-W (East Ridge of Central Summit). Rock, III AD/AD+; 45-50°, IV; 500m, 3,5-4h from Cesare e Giorgio Rossi bivouac hut; 850m, 5-6h from Val d'Ayas, 520m, 4,5-5 from Klein Matterhorn.
Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Shorter version of the classic ridge traverse. Climb to the saddle (4022m) between Eastern and central summits up a snow flank (45-50°) and continuing over Central summit to West summit. This makes the traverse shorter, but no less difficult. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)).

Moran #29d; AC East #23w; SAC 4 #193; Vaucher #39

Traverse E-W. Rock, III AD/AD+; 45-50°, IV; 730m, 5-7h from Cesare e Giorgio Rosi bivouac hut (3750); 1180m, 6,5-8,5h from Val d'Ayas.
Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)). Normally climbed from east to west. hut or Klein Matterhorn, but then even longer. It is also possible to do a half traverse by climbing to the saddle (4022m) between Eastern and central summits up a snow flank (45-50°) and continuing over Central summit to West summit. This makes the traverse shorter, but no less difficult. AD+, IV+. It is also possible to do the traverse in opposite direction starting from Klein Matterhorn to Rossi e Volante bivouac hut or to Val d' Ayas hut. This can serve as a more demanding start to traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. This is propably also around AD+. There are no equipped rappels (most part of the route can be downclimbed).

Moran #29e; AC East #23w; SAC 4 #193; Vaucher #39

Glacier pass between Roccia Neria (Breithorn) and Pollux. Bivouac hut Rossi e Volante is located close by. Provides access from Monte Rosahütte to val d'Ayas and other Italian huts. Most convenient access to north face routes of Breithorn East summit.

AC East #24a-b

Located very close to higher but technically easier Castor between Breithorn and Monte Rosa massifs. Pollux is separated from easternmost summit of Breithorn (Roccia Nera) by Schwarztor) and from Castor by Zwillingsjoch. Pollux is most commonly climbed either as a day trip from Klein Materhorn or as a part of a multi-day traverse of the Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain.

North side
North Ridge. PD+/AD; 45°, II; 3,5h, 1350m, 4,5-6h from Monte Rosa hut.
Either from Val d'Ayas hut (south) or Monte Rosa hut (north).

Moran #28d; AC East #25c; SAC 4 #209; Hochtouren #73

SW Ridge
From Schwarztor/Porta Neria (3731m, located between Roccia Nera (Breithorn) and Pollux
SW Ridge from Schwarztor. II AD-/AD; 3c; 290m, 1,5-2h.
Follows the ridge from Schwarztor to summit. Often climbed as a part of traverse of Pollux (which in turn is often included in a multi-day traverse on Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain).

AC East #25b; SAC 4 #203; Moran #28a

West Flank. PD; 50°; 290m, 1,5-2h.
Normal route. Easier alternative to SW ridge

AC East #25a; SAC 4 #205; Moran #28c

SE Ridge
From Zwillingsjoch/Passo di Verra (3845m, located between Castor and Pollux)
SE Ridge from Zwillingsjoch. PD; II, 50°; 250m, 1h.
From Zwillingsjoch (between Pollux and Castor) along the ridge to the summit. Serves as a descent when traversing the Pollux. When used in ascent, Val d'Ayas hut is the most conveniently placed starting point.

Moran #28b; AC East #25d; SAC 4 #210

Located between Castor and Pollux.

AC East #26a-b

South-easternly of twin summit Castor and Pollux (4092m). These two are often climbed together. Castor is higher but technically easier. Most commonly climbed either from Klein Matterhorn, Val d'Ayas hut (south) or Monte Rosa hut (north).
1861-08-23
Castor, SE Ridge,
First ascent		 SE Ridge: FW. Jacomb, W. Matthews & M. Croz
North side

SAC 4 #225; Moran #27e

SW side
NW Flank. II F+/PD; ; 350m, 1,5-2h from Zwillingsjoch. 700m, 4h from Klein Matterhorn.

AC East #27d; SAC 4 #223,224; Hochtouren #72; Moran #27b

Traverse Pollux-Castor W-E. AD-/AD.
Pollux, SW Ridge from Schwarztor (AD-/AD). Pollux, SE Ridge from Zwillingsjoch in descent (PD, II, 50°), Castor, Normal route from Zwillingsjoch (F+/PD, 35°)

Vaucher #29

SE side
From Felikjoch (4066)
SE Ridge. II PD/Rus 2B; 35°; 650m, 2,5h from Rifugio Quintano Sella. FW. Jacomb, W. Matthews & M. Croz, 1861-08-23.

Moran #27a; AC East #27a; SAC 4 #215-217

South side
South side. Glacier, F; 460m, 2h.

AC East #28a

North side
North side. Glacier, AD; 1400m, 5-6h.

AC East #28b

Lyskamm is one of the big mountains in the Alps. There are two main summits, separated by col Selle 4417m, on the 2,5km long snowy summit ridge. Lower West summit (4479m) is also easier to reach than slightly higher East summit (4527m). Lyskamm offers interesting climbing destinations. Traverse of both summits (AD/AD+) and North Face of East summit (D) are established classics.

  • East summit (4527m)
  • West summit (4479m)
1878-09-01
Lyskamm, Cresta Sella,
First ascent		 Cresta Sella: P. Thomas, J. Imboden & L. Langen
1890-08-09
Lyskamm, Norman-Neruda,
First ascent		 Norman-Neruda: Christian Klucker, Ludwig Norman-Neruda & Josef Reinstadler
1925-08-08
Lyskamm, Welzenbach Couloir,
First ascent		 Welzenbach Couloir: Rudolf Walter & Willo Welzenbach
1927-08-05
Lyskamm, Blanchet-Route,
First ascent		 Blanchet-Route: Emile-Robert Blanchet, Josef Aufdenblatten & Kaspar Mooser
1956-07-23
Lyskamm, Diemberger-Stefan,
First ascent		 Diemberger-Stefan: Kurt Diemberger & Wolfgang Stefan
1960-08-08
Lyskamm, Münchnerweg,
First ascent		 Münchnerweg: Werner Gross & Toni Hiebeler
1961-08-05
Lyskamm, Andreani-Nessi,
First ascent		 Andreani-Nessi: Giuseppe Andreani & Piero Nessi
1980-09-05
Lyskamm, NNE- und NE-Seite über den Felsriegel,
First ascent		 NNE- und NE-Seite über den Felsriegel: Patrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner
1982-09-10
Lyskamm, Direttissima,
First ascent		 Direttissima: Patrick Gabarrou, Gian Carlo Grassi & Carlo Stratta
1983-07-15
Lyskamm, NE Seite,
First ascent		 NE Seite: Stefano de Benedetti, Paola Calleri & Romi Guastalli
1984-02-13
Lyskamm, NE-Seite über das Felsband,
First ascent		 NE-Seite über das Felsband: Alessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco
1984-02-13
Lyskamm, NE-Seite über das Felsband,
First ascent		 NE-Seite über das Felsband: Alessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco
West summit, NNW side
West summit, NNW side. D; 6-8h.

SAC 4 #242

West summit, Northeast Face (Westgipfel, Nordostwand, West summit, North Face, Westgipfel, Nordwand)
More rocky and bigger than NE face of East summit. 1000m with avg. angle of 53°. Great number of routes, all difficult (some D's, mostly TD) and serious due to seracs.

SAC 4 #243-253

NE-Seite über das Felsband. Rock, TD-; IV; 6,5h. Alessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco, 1984-02-13.

SAC 4 #269

NNE- und NE-Seite über den Felsriegel. Mixed, D+; 11,5h. Patrick Gabarrou & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1980-09-05.

SAC 4 #253

Münchnerweg. Mixed, TD; 8-10h. Werner Gross & Toni Hiebeler, 1960-08-08.

SAC 4 #252

Diemberger-Stefan. Mixed, TD; 7,5h. Kurt Diemberger & Wolfgang Stefan, 1956-07-23.

SAC 4 #251

Direttissima. Mixed, TD; 14h. Patrick Gabarrou, Gian Carlo Grassi & Carlo Stratta, 1982-09-10.

SAC 4 #250

Andreani-Nessi. Mixed, TD+; V,A1; 12-15h. Giuseppe Andreani & Piero Nessi, 1961-08-05.

SAC 4 #247; Vaucher #97

West summit, SW side
From Felikjoch (4063m)
West Ridge of West Summit. PD/G4; 40°, II; 390m, 2-3h.
From Felikjoch along the ridge to summit.

Moran #26d; AC East #29a; SAC 4 #240

South face.

SAC 4 #254-257

Traverse W-E. IV AD/G7; II-III, IV/AI1/40-45°; 950m, 6h from the Cap. Quintino Sella to Lysjoch.
Classic. Long narrow snow and rock ridge, double cornices. Often climbed as a part of multi-day traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. Established classic. It is possible to gain Sella del Lyskamm from Felik glacier (Cresta Sella AD, AC E 29d). SW-ridge from the Felikjoch (4063m) to the W-summit. mixed, PD/G4, II passages, 40°. 2-3h from Felikjoch, 390m. Traverse from W-summit to the E-summit. AD/G7, II-III, 1-2h, 1km E-ridge (normal route) from E-summit to Lysjoch (4151m). PD/AD (G4), II, max 40-45°

Moran #26d; AC East #29e; SAC 4 #240,254,259; Hochtouren #75; Vaucher #47

East summit, Northeast Face (Ostgipfel, Nordostwand, East summit, North Face, Ostgipfel, Nordwand)
700m high classic ice face with fairly uniform angle of 55° and several routes. Base of the face at ~3800m. Rocky rib in the central part of the upper face provides the safest route but is also slower and more difficult than pure ice variations. Nowadays the most common route is either Norman-Neruda/Klucker or Welzenbach depending on the conditions.
NE-Wand der Schulter 4335m des E-Grates (Jerry Moffat Route). Ice, D; 4,5h.

SAC 4 #274

Norman-Neruda (Norman-Neruda/Klucker Rib, NF of East Summit). Ice/mixed, D/TD; IV/IV+, Sco II/55°; 700m, 3-6h. Christian Klucker, Ludwig Norman-Neruda & Josef Reinstadler, 1890-08-09.
Classic. Classic ice route, the least dangerous route on the face. Starts left of the rocks in the center of the face, climbs snow/ice field to gain the central rock ridge between two big seracs leading to the E summit.

Biner #431; SAC 4 #272; Moran #26c; AC East #29k; Vaucher #69

Welzenbach Couloir (NE Couloir). Ice, D; 700m, 4-5h. Rudolf Walter & Willo Welzenbach, 1925-08-08.
Classic. Starts and finishes with Norman-Neruda/Klucker but avoids the rocky spur by climbing the vague couloir to the left of the rocky spur.

SAC 4 #273

NE Seite. Ice, D; 700m, 4-5h. Stefano de Benedetti, Paola Calleri & Romi Guastalli, 1983-07-15.

SAC 4 #271

Blanchet-Route. Ice, D+; 55°; 700m, 4-5h. Emile-Robert Blanchet, Josef Aufdenblatten & Kaspar Mooser, 1927-08-05.

SAC 4 #270

NE-Seite über das Felsband. Rock, TD-; IV; 6,5h. Alessandro Jaccod & Rolandop Nicco, 1984-02-13.

SAC 4 #269

East summit, SE side
From Lysjoch (4151m)
East ridge. Ice, II PD/AD/G4/Rus 2B-3A; II, 40-45°; 930m, 4-5h from Gnifettihütte, 380m, 1,5-2h, from Lysjoch.
Normal route. Possible as skitour, skidepot at Lysjoch.

Moran #26b; AC East #29c; SAC 4 #259

Cresta Sella (South Ridge). PD+; 45°, II; 1030m, 8,5h roundtrip from Quintano Sella. P. Thomas, J. Imboden & L. Langen, 1878-09-01.

Hochtouren #74; Moran #26a

South face.
Useful as escape from the low point between the summits along the traverse. Otherwise not of particular merit.

SAC 4 #260-268; Moran #26e

Located between Lyskamnm and Monte Rosa massif. Probably the most important pass on the Frontier ridge from mountaineer's point of view.
South side
South side. Glacier, F; 640m, 2,5h from Gnifetti hut, shorter from Balmenhorn bivouac.

AC East #30a

North side
North side. Glacier, PD; 1460m, 5h.

AC East #30b

Monte Rosa massif is a chain of high peaks running from south to north, located immediately to the East of Lysjoch, separating Monta Rosa from Breithorn - Lyskamm chain. While the peaks are not overly dramatic when seen from south or north, gigantic East face (Signalkuppe - Zumstreinspitze - Dufourspitze - Nordend) rising 2000m from the valley base of Macugnaga is the biggest face in the Alps. There are several mixed routes, on the face, all of which are domain for those not intimidated by their sheer scale. All of the routes on the face are also serious undertakings due to ice fall danger.

Access to south side is quite painless from Alagna Valsesia (1190m) using the lift to Punta Indren (3250m). From there ascent to Cabane Gnifetti, Rifuge Cittá di Mantova or Rifugio Margherita is not too long.

Punta Giordani (4046m) - Piramide Vincent - Balmenhorn - Corno Nero/Schwarzhorn (4321m) - Ludwigshöhe - Parrotspitze - Signalkuppe - Zumsteinspitse - Dufourspitze - Nordend - Jägerhorn

Southernmost independent peak in Monte Rosa chain. Punta Giordani, that is sometimes considered to be an independent mountain, is merely a SE summit of Vindent Pyramide.

  • Vincent Pyramide (4215m)
  • Punta Giordani (SE summit) (4046m)
SW face
400m high SW has host of early-season mixed routes around grade AD+. Later in the season the face melts and stones start to fly.

SAC 4 #320-325; AC East #32c-f; Moran #25d

SSW Ridge. PD-/Rus 1B; I, 35°; 600m, 2h.

AC East #32a; SAC 4 #319; Moran #25e

NE face
NE faces of Pyramide Vincent and Punta Giordani form 800m wide and 550m high face rising from Gh. delle Piode occidentale. There are severeal routes between grades AD+ and TD, mainly on rock.

SAC 4 #302,311-316

Unimportant and not prominent peak. It is possible to reach Balmenhorn from all directions. Theer's bivaco Giordani on the rocks of Balmenhorn, located immediately below huge Christus statue.
  • Balmenhorn. Very good page with route list, access information, huts, informations resources. At MountainArea.
SE face
600m, D+ - TD

SAC 4 #338-340

Rarely climbed except in combination with Parrotspitze. Normal route easy (F).
ENE face
400m
ENE face of Parrotspitze. AD+; 55°; 4,5h/1200m, 6-7,5h.
It is also possible to climb directly through Canale Sesia (AD, 55°) to Seeserjoch (4296m). Frtom Seeserjoch along the normal route to the summit.

Moran #24e; AC East #36d; SAC 4 #354

Canale Sesia. Snow/ice, AD; 55-60°; 500m, 4-5h.
Couloir to Seserjoch (4296m)

SAC 4 #365

South face
700m, AD - TD-

SAC 4 #358-361

Mountaineeringwise the second most important peak in Monta Rosa. Margherita hut is located on the summit (the highest building in Europe). Three distinct ridges and faces. East Ridge (Cresta Signal) is classic ascent. West face is benign, whereas NE and SE faces huge domains of steep rock and ice.
1842-08-09
Signalkuppe, West flank,
First ascent		 West flank: Giovanni Gnifetti and seven Guides
1887-07-28
Signalkuppe, Cresta Signal,
First ascent		 Cresta Signal: A. Supersaxo & H. W. Topham
West side
Almost completely covered by firn
West flank. Glacier, F/PD/G2/Rus 2A; 900m, 3,5-4,5h. Giovanni Gnifetti and seven Guides, 1842-08-09.
Normal route. Glacier route at high altitude. From Gnifetti hut towards Lysjoch until East saddle (4246m), then close to Seserjoch and Colle Gnifetti and to the summit.

Moran #24a; AC East #37a; SAC 4 #367

SW Ridge. PD-; I, 45°; 1h from Seserjoch.

SAC 4 #384

NW side from Monta Rosa hut. PD-; 5,5-7h.
Via Grenz glacier

Moran #24b; SAC 4 #368

NE face
Above Gh. del Monte Rosa. Features three prominent rock ribs. All routes (TD - ED-) are exposed to considerable objective danger, cold conditions are must.

SAC 4 #370-377

SE face
800m high face between Cresta Signal and Canale Sesia (leading to Seserjoch)

SAC 4 #378-383

Cresta Signal (East Ridge). Mixed, IV D; IV; 1000m, 5-7h. A. Supersaxo & H. W. Topham, 1887-07-28.
Isolated and beautiful ridge. Mixed climbing at altitude up to grade IV.

Moran #24d; AC East #37f; Vaucher #82

ENE face of Parrotspitze. AD+; 55°; 1200m, 6-7,5h.
It is also possible to climb directly through Canale Sesia (AD, 55°) to Seeserjoch (4296m). From Seeserjoch along the normal route to the summit.

Moran #24e; AC East #36d

Gabarrou. Mixed, ABO; 90, M°, VII+/6c; 1250m.

Part of Monte Rosa Massif.
1820-08-01
Zumsteinspitze, ,
First ascent		 Joseph Zumstein et al.
SE Ridge
From Colle Gnifetti (4452m) to the summit.
SE Ridge. F/G2/Rus 1B; 40°; 100m, 0,5h.

AC East #38a; SAC 4 #393

N Ridge
From Grenzsattel (4453m) to the summit.
M Ridge. PD+; 100m, 05h.

SAC 4 #401,397

West side
West side from Lysjoch. PD; 2h from Lysjoch.

SAC 4 #400

West side from Monte Rosahütte. PD+/AD-; 5h.

SAC 4 #401,402

East side
D; 8h.

SAC 4 #403

The highest mountain of Monte Rosa Massif and the highest mountain in Switzerland.
1872-07-22
Dufourspitze, Marinelli Couloir,
First ascent		 Marinelli Couloir: R. & W. Pendlebury, C. Taylor, F. Imseng, G. Oberto & G. Spechtenhauser
North side
N Face and W Ridge. Glacier, III PD+/G4; II+, mostly I, III/AI1/40°; 1840m, 5-7h in ascent, 4h in descent.
Normal route. Long glacier ascent, mixed and exposed. From Monte Rosa Hut via Sattel 4359m,

Moran #22a; AC East #40a; SAC 4 #406; Hochtouren #78

Traverse from Nordend (N Flank). II AD; III and II; 2h from Silbersattel (4515m).

Moran #22d; AC East #40d; SAC 4 #411,423

East face (Macugnaga-wand)
There are three major spurs on the face, of which the northernmost, known as Crestone Marinelli, is the most prominent. It's base at 2250m, is the face of the actual face, laying 24090m below the summit. Central spur is known as Crestone Imseng and the third one (South) is known as Crestone Zapparoli. Wide Marinelli couloir leading to Dufourspitze is the most classic route on the face. However, Brioschi (Nordend) is safer and more challenging. Cold conditions are essential for safety.
  • From Marinelli Hut (3036m). Access from Macugnaga

SAC 4 #414

Marinelli Couloir. Ice, D/G10; 55°, III-IV; 1700m, 9-12h from Marinelli Hut. R. & W. Pendlebury, C. Taylor, F. Imseng, G. Oberto & G. Spechtenhauser, 1872-07-22.
Classic. Most famous route on vast East face of Monte Rosa. Route has unavoidable objective danger, therefore cold conditions and speed are necessary to minimize the risk.

Moran #22e; AC East #40e; SAC 4 #414; Vaucher #75

SE Ridge
  • Zumsteinspitze, approach from Rifugio Margherita
Traverse from Zumsteinspitze. Mixed, II AD/Rus 3B; 3b/III and II; 2-3h.
Mixed ridge, often done as a part of the traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. From Signalkuppe (Margherita hut) over Zumsteinspitze via Grenzsattel and SE Ridge to summit. Descent typically along the normal route to Monte Rosa hut.

Moran #22c; AC East #40f; SAC 4 #415

South side

SAC 4 #416-421

Cresta Rey (South Rib). Rock, AD/G8; 3b/III- and II; 400m, 3h; 1330m, 5,6-8h from Gnifetti hut; 700m, 5,5-6h from Margherita hut, 1800m, 8-9h from Monte Rosa hut.

Moran #22b; AC East #40b; SAC 4 #417; Vaucher #80

Located on Frontier ridge immediately south of Nordend. Visited by parties climbing the normal route of Nordend.

AC East #41a

Northmost peak of the Monte Rosa massif.
1876-07
Nordend, Brioschi,
First ascent		 Brioschi: L. Brioschi, A. & F. Imseng
1877-08-13
Nordend, Morshead Spur,
First ascent		 Morshead Spur: F. Morshead & M. Andereg
1886-08-18
Nordend, West face,
First ascent		 West face: August Lorria, Lelix O. Schuster, Joseph Gentinetta & Josep Truffer
1906-07
Nordend, Cresta di Santa Caterina,
First ascent		 Cresta di Santa Caterina: V. Ryan, F. & J. Lochmatter
North side
Cresta di Santa Caterina (ENE Ridge). Rock, TD; V; 450m, 6-8h. V. Ryan, F. & J. Lochmatter, 1906-07.
Classic. Superb sustained route on good rock from Jägerjoch (3913m). Much of the climbing is slabby.

SAC 4 #437; AC East #42d; Vaucher #96

West side
West face. Ice, D; 48°; 6h from Monte Rosa hut. August Lorria, Lelix O. Schuster, Joseph Gentinetta & Josep Truffer, 1886-08-18.

SAC 4 #428

Morshead Spur. Rock, D-; IV; 400m, 7h. F. Morshead & M. Andereg, 1877-08-13.
From Silbersattel (approach 4h). Good rock.

SAC 4 #430; AC East #42b; Moran #23b

South side
South Ridge. D/G3; II and I; 1820m, 6-7h.
Normal route. From Monte Rosa Hut (2795m) along the normal route of Dufourspitze until Satteltole (4100m). From there via glacier basin to Silbersattel (4515m). Traverse South Ridge to the summit.

Moran #23a; AC East #40a

East face
Part of vast Monte Rosa East face. Cold conditions are essential for safe ascent. Several big and serious ice/mixed routes between grades D and ED.
  • Marinelli Hut (3036m). Access from Macugnaga

SAC 4 #439-448

Brioschi. Mixed, V D+/TD-; IV and III, 60°; 1050m, 8-10h, 1580m, 9-12h from Maninelli Hut. L. Brioschi, A. & F. Imseng, 1876-07.
Classic. Classic ice route. Safer and more difficult alternative to better known Marinelli couloir (of Dufourspitze).

Moran #23c; AC East #42f; SAC 4 #443; Vaucher #88

Of no particular importance but along the way from Gallarate bivouac to Cresta di Santa Caterina.

Weissgrat - Roffelhörner

from Fillarjoch to Monte Moro pass, from Riffelhorn to Stockhorn

Kleines Fillarhorn (3621m) - Gross Fillarhorn (3676m) - Cima Brioshi (3642m) - >Torre de Castelfranco (3632m) - Cima di Jazzi (3802m) - Schwarzberg Weisstor (3535m) - Schwarzberghorn (3609m) - Stockhorn (3532m) - Gornergrat (3090m) - Riffelhorn (2927m) - Roffelhorn W (3563m) - Roffelhorn E (3478m) - Rothorn/Corno Rosso (3230m)

Located close to Rotenboden station of GornergratImportant training cliff for rock climbing. North face is fairly short, South side has routes up to 400m

Mischabel massif is a 15 km long and 8 km large North-South branch connected to Monte Rosa massif. To Mischabel ridge belong lots of high peaks, from North to South: Gugla (3377m), Dirruhorn (formerly Dürrenhorn, 4035m), Hohbärghorn (4219m), Nadelhorn (4327m), Lenzspitze (4294m), Dom (4545m), Täschhorn (4496m), Alphubel (4206m), Feechopf (3888m), Allalinhorn (3288m), Rimpfischhorn (4199m), Strahlhorn(4190m) and a Point 3609m on the Switz-Italian border.

Strahlhorn, Rimpfischhorn and Alphubel all have easy normal routes, and are well suited for acllimatisation. Dom and Täschhorn are big mountains, both of which have important routes. Especially the latter is both long and challenging, even on the easiest routes. Traverse of the Nadelgrat consisting of Lenzspitze in the south, Nadelhorn, Steccknadelhorn, Hochbärghorn and Dirruhorn is a classic (several variations and both directions are feasible). Arguable the best climbing is found between Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn. One interesting and varied way is to start with NE face of Lenzspitse (Dreieselswand (D/D+), then follow Nadelgrat to Dirruhorn and return to Mischabel huts over Windjoch.

One of the easier 4000m peaks. Not particularly popular though, as the approach is lengthy and nearby Rimpfishhorn is visually more appealing without being technically too much more difficult.
1854-08-15
Strahlhorn, Adler Pass & West Ridge,
First ascent		 Adler Pass & West Ridge: J.G. & C. Smyth, F-J. Andenmatten & V. Lauener
West ridge
  • from Britannia hut. Hut climb 0,5h from cable car.
Adler Pass & West Ridge (WNW Ridge). F+/PD/G2; 1250m, 4-5h from Britannia hut. J.G. & C. Smyth, F-J. Andenmatten & V. Lauener, 1854-08-15.
via Adler Pass (3789m)

AC East #52a; Moran #21a-b

South ridge
  • From Rifugio Eugenio Sella (3029m)
S Ridge. AD+.
From Rifugio Eugenio Sella (3029m) - S Ridge (SSE) - summit - Britannia hut (3030m).

AC East #52b; Moran #21f

1859-09-09
Rimpfischhorn, Upper SW flank,
First ascent		 Upper SW flank: R. Liveing, L. Stephen, M. Anderegg & J. Zumtaugwald
1923-07-13
Rimpfischhorn, NW flank,
First ascent		 NW flank: E-R. Blanchet & H. Imseng
South side
Upper SW flank. II AD-; 45°, III; 1610, 8h. R. Liveing, L. Stephen, M. Anderegg & J. Zumtaugwald, 1859-09-09.

Hochtouren #69; Moran #21a-c

NW flank
NW flank. Ice, D; 55°; 300m, 3h from bergschrund. E-R. Blanchet & H. Imseng, 1923-07-13.

AC East #54b; Moran #21d

North ridge. AD; III; 1340m, 6,5-8h from Britannia hut, somewhat longer from Täsch hut.

Moran #21e

Popular easy mountaineering and ski touring objective. Ascent is greatly assisted by underground train to Mittelallallin station which makes Allalinhorn the second most accessible 4000m peak in Valais after Breithorn.
West flank (WNW Ridge)
West flank. F; 40°; 580m.

Moran #19a-b, 19d

Hohlaubgrat ((E)NE ridge)
NE ridge. Snow, PD; 40°, II; 1087, 5h. H. Dübi, A. & P. Supersaxo, 1882-07-27.

Hochtouren #68; Moran #19e; Vaucher #39(?)

1860
Alphubel, ,
First ascent		 Leslie Stephen, T.W.Hinchliff,Melchior Anderegg & Peter Perren from Täsch over Alphubeljoch and SE Ridge
  • Alphubel. Very good page with route list, access information, huts, informations resources. At MountainArea.
West side
  • From Täschhütte (2701m)
Rotgrat (WSW Ridge). Mixed, III AD+/G6; 3c/III+/IV and II; 1500m, 5-7h from Täsch hut.
Mixed on firn and compact rock. Most difficulties in last 300m.

Hochtouren #67; Vaucher #33; Moran #18e

West Ridge of north summit (West Rib). D+/G10; IV+; 8-9h from Täsch hut.

Moran #18f

North side
From Langflue (East flank). Snow, II PD+/G3; 45°, II (50m); 1300m, 4-5h from Täsch hut (2701m, 1500m of ascent).
Normal route. From Langflue cable car station (2870m, cable car from Saas Fee). From Feejoch 50m mixed passage (II). Also possible from Britannia hut (3030m, 1290m of ascent, G3-4).

Moran #18a

North Ridge. AD; III-; 1-2h from Mischabeljoch.

Moran #18d

NE Face. D/G6; 55°; 600m.
Objectively dangerous mixed route.
South side
  • From Täschhütte (2701m, approach from Täsch in Mattertal) via Alphubeljoch. Not cable car assisted.
SE Ridge. II PD; II, 40°; 1500m, 4-5h from Täsch hut.

Hochtouren #66; Moran #18c

South Flank. D/G8; III+/IV; 650m.

Part of the Mischabel ridge, the most difficult and arguable the finest peak in the group. One of the more difficult 4000m peaks. There is a bivouac hut between Täschhorn and Alphubel, that makes the ascent considerably shorter. Easiest descent via Dom (traverse AD+), then along the normal route of Dom.
1876-08-15
Täschhorn, Mischabelgrat,
First ascent		 Mischabelgrat: J.Jackson, Christian & Ulrich Almer
1887-07-16
Täschhorn, Teufelsgrat,
First ascent		 Teufelsgrat: Joseph Andermatten, A.F. & M.Mummery
1906
Täschhorn, SW Face,
First ascent		 SW Face: Franz & Josef Lochmatter, V.J.E. Ryan, Geoffrey Winthrop Young & Josef Knubel
NW side
  • Dom hut (2940m, approach from Randa). Also possible from Kin hut.
Kinflanke (NW Face). Ice, AD/G5; II+, 50°; 1700m, 6h from Dom hut (2940m, approach from Randa). J. Jackson, Guide Christion and Ulich Almer, 1876-07-30.
Predominantly ice, route finding problematic. Also possible from Kin hut.

AC East #62c; Moran #13b

Mischabelgrat
Mischabelgrat (SE Ridge). II AD/G6; 3b/III, M2; 1700m, 7-9h from Täsch hut (2701m). J.Jackson, Christian & Ulrich Almer, 1876-08-15.

AC East #62a; Hochtouren #65; Vaucher #36; Moran #13a

SW Face. Franz & Josef Lochmatter, V.J.E. Ryan, Geoffrey Winthrop Young & Josef Knubel, 1906.
Prestigeous,loose and dangerous horror show. TD+, 900m, 10-15h.
Teufelsgrat (WSW Ridge). AD+/G9; IV; 8-10h from Kinlücke (3734m), 12-15h from the hut. Joseph Andermatten, A.F. & M.Mummery, 1887-07-16.
2km ridge

AC East #62b; Vaucher #90; Moran #13c

Although the summit of Dufourspitze is located entirely in Switzerland, Dom is sometimes claimed to be the the highest purely Swiss mountain. it is the next highest peak in the Alkps after Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa peaks. Best known climb by far is Domgrat, high level traverse from Täshhorn to Dom. Normal route is not technical but sports the highest elevation gain on any of the normal routes in the Alps that has to be scaled on foot (3100m from Randa), which keeps the number of aspirants at bay.
1858-09-11
Dom, Festigrat,
First ascent		 Festigrat: J.L. Davies, Johann Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig and Hieronymous Brantschen
North side
  • From Dom Hut (2940m, approach from Randa, 1400m, 5-6h)
North Face (North Flank, Nordflanke). Snow, II PD; 40°, II; 1650m, 5-7h from Dom Hut.
Normal route. Easiest route

AC East #64a; Hochtouren #64; Moran #12a

Festigrat (NW Ridge). PD+/G4; II, 50°; 3h from Festijoch; 1600m, 5-6h from Dom hut. J.L. Davies, Johann Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig and Hieronymous Brantschen, 1858-09-11.
Classic ridge, mostly on rock. From Dom hut via Festijoch. Quickest and most direct route from Dom hut.

AC East #62d; Hochtouren #64; Vaucher #59; Moran #12b

  • Walliseralpen August 2000. Trip reports & route descriptions of Täschhorn (4491 m) from Domhütte and Dom (4545 m) via Festigrat by Hartmut Bielefeldt. In German.
Täscchorn-Dom traverse (Traverse from Täschhorn)
  • Täshhorn
Domgrat (South Ridge, Traverse from Täshhorn). IV AD+/D/G6; 3c/III+ and II; 907m, 3-5h from summit to summit.
Classic. Narrow and airy ridge, partially corniced. Classic route in its own right and allows access to easier descent along DOm normal route. Rock somewhat loose.

AC East #64b; Vaucher #66; Moran #12c

Most southernly summit on Nadelgrat. Often climbed as part of Dom Traverse (Festigrat) or traverse of Nadelgrat. NE Face (Dreieselswand) is the most famous ice face in the Mischabel group. Easiest descent is by traversing to Nadelhorn (AD, III+, 1-5-3h), then along Nadelhorn normal route to Mischabelhütte.
1882-08-03
Lenzspitze, ENE Ridge,
First ascent		 ENE Ridge: Ambros Supersaxo, Theodor Andermatten & W.W. Graham
1888-07-28
Lenzspitze, South Ridge via Lenzjoch,
First ascent		 South Ridge via Lenzjoch: Ambros Supersaxo, L.Zurbriggen & R.F.Ball
1911-07-07
Lenzspitze, Dreieselswand,
First ascent		 Dreieselswand: Bethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otman Supersaxo
North side
  • Mischabel huts (3330m)
ENE Ridge. Rock/mixed, AD; III; 950m, 4-5h from Mischabel huts. Ambros Supersaxo, Theodor Andermatten & W.W. Graham, 1882-08-03.
Direct, accessible and enjoyable. Sustained at II and I with several pitches of III.

AC East #65a; Hochtouren #63; Moran #14b

Dreieselswand (NE Face). Ice, III D/D+/Rus 3B; 56°, III; 490m. Approach 1,25h from the hut, face 3-4h. Bethmann-Hollweg, Oskar & Otman Supersaxo, 1911-07-07.
Classic. Famous ice classic, one of the trademarks of Michabel group. From Mischabel hut (3340m). Start of difficulties at 3800m, directly in the fall line. Descent over NE Ridge via Nadelhorn (AD, III+) and Windjoch to Mischabel hut (PD). Lower part 50° upper part 52° (max 56°)

AC East #65d; Vaucher #57; Moran #14c

South Ridge
  • Dom hut (2940m)
South Ridge via Lenzjoch. PD+; III; 13550m, 5-6h from Dom hut. Ambros Supersaxo, L.Zurbriggen & R.F.Ball, 1888-07-28.
Normal route. easiest route from Dom hut

AC East #65b; Moran #14a

The highest point of Nadelgrat, one of the easiest peaks in the area.
1858-09-16
Nadelhorn, NE Ridge,
First ascent		 NE Ridge: F. Andenmatten, B. Epiney, A. Supersaxo & J. Zimmermann
East side
  • Mischabel huts (3329m)
NE Ridge. Snow, II PD; II, 45°; 1000m, 3-4h from Mischabel huts. F. Andenmatten, B. Epiney, A. Supersaxo & J. Zimmermann, 1858-09-16.
Normal route. Steep path of blocky terrain to reach a glacier at 3600m (0,5h). From there across the glacier and up the glacier to Windjoch between Nadelhorn and Ullrichshorn (3850m, 1,5-2h from the hut). From there along the ridge to the summit. At first the ridge is pure snow, higher up some easy rocks (up to II) are to be negotiated (lower rocks can be turned on the right side).

AC East #66a; Hochtouren #62; Moran #15a

Nadelgrat
Long ridge running more or less South-North direction from Lenzspitze to Hochbärghorn or still further to Dirruhorn. It is possible to climb Nadelgrat is either direction in numerous variations either in a day or in two days (rest on Mischhebel huts). If it's still not enough, it is possible to climb further to south over Dom and Täshhorn.
Nadelgrat from Bordierhütte. G7; II, maybe III at the Nadelhorn-gendarm, 45°; 12h, 1640m.
Dirruhorn - Hochbärghorn - Stecknadelhorn - Nadelhorn - Lenzspitze

Vaucher #55(?)

Nadelgrat from Mischabelhütte. IV, 45°; 12h, 1580m.
Mischabelhütte (3329m) - Lenzspitse - Nadelhorn - Stecknadelhorn - Hochbärghorn - Dirruhorn. Without Lenzspitze: AD (G4), III- (passages), mostly II and I.
Nadelgrat from Mischabelhütte without Lenzspitze. AD/G4; III- (passages), mostly II and I; 1300m, 7-9h.
Mischabelhütte (3329m) - Nadelhorn - Stecknadelhorn - Hochbärghorn
Traverse from Lenzspitze (SE Ridge). Rock/mixed, III AD; 3b/III+, M1; 115m, 1,5-3h.
Easiest descent from Lenzspitze to Mischabelhütte. Also easiest descent from Lenzspitze. May be delicate if there's lots of snow covering the rocks.

AC East #66b; Hochtouren #63; Moran #15c; Vaucher #26

NW Ridge. Snow, PD+; III; 200m, 1,5-2h.
Hochbärgjoch (P. 4142m) - Stecknadelhorn - Stecknadeljoch - Nadelhorn. Elegant snow ridge

AC East #66c; Moran #15d

Part of the Nadelgrat, located between Stecknadelhorn and Dirruhorn. Has a nice north face (D, approach from Mischabel hut 3329m).
Nadelgrat (NNW ridge)
NNW Ridge. Mixed, AD; II+; 300m; 1350m, 5-6h from Bordier hut; 1150m, 4,5-5h from Mischabelhütte.
Short mixed ridge from Dirrujoch (3912m). Part of Complete Nadelgrat.

AC East #67a; Moran #16a

ESE Ridge. PD.
Part of Complete Nadelgrat

AC East #67a

North face
  • Mischabel huts via Windjoch; Bordier hut
North face. Ice, D; 320m, 5-6h from Bordier hut.

AC East #67c; Moran #16c

Northermost peak on the Nadelgrat. Most often climbed as part of the complete Nadelgrat. usual access is from Dirrujoch (Moran 17a, AD).

Weismiees Group is a 12km long and 8km wide ridge running from north to south in the North Eastern Pennine Alps, between Simplon Pass and Saas Valleys. The highest and finest mountain of the area is Weissmies (4023m). Other high peaks of the group are Fletschhorn (3993m) and Lagginghorn (4010m).

Normal routes of all three are easy glacier climbs with the latter being one of the easiest 4000m peaks in the Alps. North face on Fletschhorn is the most interesting feature of the area.

1927-07-25
Fletschhorn, Original,
First ascent		 Original: E.R.Blanchet, Oskar Supersaxo & Kaspar Mooser
1960-07-17
Fletschhorn, Wiener Route,
First ascent		 Wiener Route: Vanis & co.
West face
  • From Weissmies hut (2726m)
West Flank & NW Ridge. G2; 40°.
Normal route. From Weissmies hut
North face
  • Approach from bivouac place 150m, access to bivouac from Siplon Pass.
Original. TD/TD+. E.R.Blanchet, Oskar Supersaxo & Kaspar Mooser, 1927-07-25.
Serious objective danger
Wiener Route. Ice, IV D+/TD/G10; 60°; 600m, 4-8h. Vanis & co., 1960-07-17.
Classic. Pure ice to the topmost NW Ridge. Approach from bivouac place 150m.

Hochtouren #66; Vaucher #95; AC East #83c

West ridge
  • Lift station Kreuzboden (2397m)
West ridge. PD; 40°, II; 560/1280m, 6,5h roundtrip.

Hochtouren #80; Moran #11a

South side
Südgrat. AD; III+; 920m, 7,5h roundtrip from Hohsaas.
Normal route. From Laggingjoch (3499m) over P. 3906

Hochtouren #81; Moran #11b

North side
  • Fletchhorn
Traverse from Fletchhorn. ; 1590m, 6-7h from Weissmies hut.

Moran #11d

Highest peak in NE Pennine Alps, east of Saas valley.
1856-08-26
Weissmies, SE Ridge,
First ascent		 SE Ridge: Peter Joseph Zurbriggen & Jakob Christian Heuser
1928
Weissmies, NE Rib,
First ascent		 NE Rib: Blanchet, Mooser & Supersaxo
North side
  • From Hohsaas cable car station (3098m
Triftgrat (NW Face and W Ridge). Glacier, III PD; 45°; 1050m, 3-4h from Hohsaas; 1h longer from Weissmies hut.
Normal route. From Hohsaas. More serious but much shorter than old normal route, some exposure.

Hochtouren #79; Moran #10a

North Ridge. D; 4b/IV- and III; 1300m, 6-10h from Hohsaas.
Beautiful, long and varied ridge route.

Vaucher #37; Moran #10c

NE side
  • Long approach from Simplon to Bivacco delle Donne in Lagging valley. From there 3h to the foot of the face.
NE Rib. AD. Blanchet, Mooser & Supersaxo, 1928.
Leads to foresummit (3830m) on North Ridge, along the ridge to summit.
SE side
  • from Almageller hut (2860m), approach 1180m.
SE Ridge. PD/G3; I, 45°; 1140m, 4,5-5h from Almageller hut. Peter Joseph Zurbriggen & Jakob Christian Heuser, 1856-08-26.
Old normal route via S Face and SE Ridge. Easier but much longer than the new normal route.

Moran #10b

Pizzo d'Andolla - Joderhorn

  • Pizzo d'Andolla (3653m)
  • Portjenhorn (3567m)
[Western Valais (Grand Combin) | Col Collon - Theodulpass | Theodulpass - Monte Moro (Monte Rosa) | Mischabel Group | Weissmies Group]
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