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Valais Alps

General information

Breithorn (NW), Klein Matterhorn. Breithorn and Klein Matterhorn seen from Gandegg hut.

Breithorn and Klein Matterhorn seen from Gandegg hut. Source: Canon Ixus 400, (c) Ari Paulin , licensed under (c) 2004 Ari Paulin. Shot on 2004-08-08 in Breithorn, Zermatt, Wallis, Switzerland (Google maps).

The Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy are perhaps the most spectacular mountain chain in Europe. The range borders on the Great St. Bernard Pass and the Mont Blanc group in southwest, on the Upper Rhône Valley in the north, on the Simplon Pass and the Lepontine Alps in northeast and by the Dora Baltea River valley in south. The compact area boasts ten of the twelve highest summits in the Alps (the other two are part of the Mont Blanc Massif), most of them located in the frontier crest. The high mountains are separated by long narrow valleys.


Western Valais (Grand Combin): Western Pennine Alps are located between Col du Gross St.Bernhard and Val d'Hérens. The most important peak of the area is Grand Combin, a separate massif in the west. It forms a link between Pennine Alps and Mont Blanc Group. Other important peaks of the area include Mont Vélan (3731m), Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m), Pigne d'Arolla (3796m) and Mont Collon (3637m).
Col Collon - Theodulpass: To the east of this chain are located Grand Cornier and Dent Blanche. They are connected to and Téte Blanche - Dent d'Hérens - Matterhorn chain on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Further north, between Grand Cornier and Matter valley lie chain Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weishorn - Bishorn.
Theodulpass - Monte Moro (Monte Rosa): Monte Rosa Massif on the frontier crest between Switzerland. It is a complex massif with dozens of summits, sharp ridges and massive glaciers. Depending on the consideration of subsidiary peaks, there are 15 - 22 4000m peaks, high point being the Dufourspitze at 4634m, the second highest mountain in the Alps. Northern slopes is made of not overtly steep glaciers while the Italien Southeastern side is dominated by over 2000m high East Face.
Mischabel Group: Mischabel massif is a 15 km long and 8 km large North-South branch connected to Monte Rosa massif. To Mischabel ridge belong lots of high peaks, from North to South: Gugla (3377m), Dirruhorn (formerly Dürrenhorn, 4035m), Hohbärghorn (4219m), Nadelhorn (4327m), Lenzspitze (4294m), Dom (4545m), Täschhorn (4496m), Alphubel (4206m), Feechopf (3888m), Allalinhorn (3288m), Rimpfischhorn (4199m), Strahlhorn(4190m) and a Point 3609m on the Switz-Italian border.
Weissmies Group: Weismiees Group is a 12km long and 8km wide ridge running from north to south in the North Eastern Pennine Alps, between Simplon Pass and Saas Valleys. The highest and finest mountain of the area is Weissmies (4023m). Other high peaks of the group are Fletschhorn (3993m) and Lagginghorn (4010m).

Logistics

To switch between Swiss and Italian valleys involves a rather lengthy car ride via either Grand St. Bernhard pass in the west or Simplon pass in the east. The fastest way to cross from Swiss side to Italian side is by using the ski lifts via Klein Matterhorn. Moving around from valley to valley is not too easy without a car. That being said, trains and busses could be used to move back and forth in Mattertal and Saastal.

Airport: Geneva or Zürich for the parties visiting Swiss valleys; Milan for the parties visiting Italian valleys.
Mattertal: Easiest to reach with either by car to Täsch or by train. Zermatt is car free zone, so the last part from Täsch to Zermatt requires train ride.
Saastal: Reachable by train to Stalden, and from there by bus.

Accommodation

Val de Bagnes

Cabane de Panossière
- 2669m.
Cabane de Chanrion
- 2462m.

Val d'Hérens

Bivouac du Col de la Dent Blanche
- 3540m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 6h, F (Biner #303)
Cabane des Dix
- 2928m.
Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges
- 2810m.
Cabane des Vignettes
- 3158m.
Cabane de Bertol
- between Pigne d'Arolla and Mont Collon. 3311m.
Cabane de la Tsa
- 2607m.
Refuge des Bouquetins
- 2980m.
Cabane de la Dent Blanche
- 2980m.

Ferpècle

Bivouac du Col de la Dent Blanche
- 3540m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 6h, F (Biner #303)
Cabane de la Dent Blanche
- 2980m.

Val d'Anniviers

Bivouac du Col de la Dent Blanche
- 3540m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 6h, F (Biner #303)
Cabane du Mountet
- Gps: lat: 616.630, long: 100.960, alt: 2886m.
- phone (pref)+41 27 475 14 31.
- Connections:
  - from Zinal (1675) in Val d'Anniviers F, 4,5h. (Biner #310, AC East #H2, SAC 3 #8.1)
  - from Zermatt, via Schönbielhütte and Col Durand (3451m).. PD/PD+, 5,5-6h from Schönbielhütte (3h to pass, 2 h to Mountet). In opposite direction 2,3h to pass, 1,5h to pass.. (AC West 150a, 150b)
  - from Rothornhütte, via Triftjoch. PD (AC East 4a)
Cabane du Tracuit
- Gps: lat: 32.84000, long: 113.91, alt: 3256m.
- phone (pref)+41 27 475 15 00, fax: +41 27 475 26 35 .
- Connections:
  - from Zinal (1675) in Val d'Anniviers, 4h (Biner #316)

Dix valley

Cabane des Dix
- 2928m.

Arolla

Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges
- 2810m.
Cabane des Vignettes
- 3158m.
Cabane de Bertol
- between Pigne d'Arolla and Mont Collon. 3311m.
Cabane de la Tsa
- 2607m.
Refuge des Bouquetins
- 2980m.

Turtmanntal

Cabane du Tracuit
- Gps: lat: 32.84000, long: 113.91, alt: 3256m.
- phone (pref)+41 27 475 15 00, fax: +41 27 475 26 35 .
- Connections:
  - from Zinal (1675) in Val d'Anniviers, 4h (Biner #316)
Turtmannhütte
- 2519m.
- Connections:
  - from Vordere Sänntum (1901m) above Gruben in Turtmanntal, 2h (Biner #317)

Mattertal

Weisshornhütte
- 2932m.
- Connections:
  - from Randa (1407) in Mattertal, 4,5h. (Biner #31, SAC 3 #12)
Biwak am Schalijoch
- 3780m.
- Connections:
  - from Rothornhütte (3198m), via Schalihorn (3974m). AD, 8,5h. (Biner #314, SAC 3 #657, #658, #659)
  - from Schali (1426) in Mattertal between Randa and Täsch PD, 8h. (Biner #315)
Rothornhütte
- 3198m.
- Connections:
  - from Zermatt (1614m) in Mattertal, 4,5h. (Biner #311, SAC 3 #11, AC East #H4)
Cabane de la Dent Blanche
- 3507m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 5h, F (Biner #304)
  - from Zermatt in Mattertal (4h) or from lift station Furi (3h), (Brandt 3 #4)
Hörnlihütte
- Connections:
  - from lift station Schwarzee (2583m), 2h
Schönbielhütte
- Gps: lat: 614.750, long: 094.510, alt: 2694m.
- email: bielti.zermatt@gmx.ch , phone (pref)+41 27 967 13 54, (cell)+41 79 447 41 87.
- Connections:
  - from Zermatt, via Zmutt (1614m)., 4h. (Biner #306)
  - from lift station Schwarzee (2583m), 2,5h. (Biner #306, AC East #H1)
Rifugio de Teodulo
- 3317m.
- Connections:
  - from Trockener Steg, F, 1,25h (SAC 4 #51)
  - from Tresta Grigia (Breuil - Plan Maison - Tresta Trigia lift), F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #52)
Gandegghütte
- Located close to lift station >Trockener Steg (3029). Gps: lat: 45.96284, long: 7.75343, alt: 3029m.
- phone (pref)+41 27 9672112, (cell) , fax: +41 27 9672149 .
- Connections:
  - from Trockener Steg lift station, 0,5h, good path (SAC 4 #2)
  - from Monte Rosahütte F, 2,5h. (SAC 4 #3)
  - to Schwarztor, PD, 5h (SAC 4 #195)
bivacco Rossi e Volante
- Located very close to Schwarztor and Roccia Nera.. 3750m.
- Connections:
  - from Klein Matterhorn, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #57)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas F, 1,5h. (SAC 4 #59)
  - from Monte Rosahütte PD, 4-4,5h. (SAC 4 #58)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #213)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 0,25h (SAC 4 #200)
Rifugio Val d' Ayas
- 3394m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m), 3h, F (Biner #402)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #118)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 425m, 1-1,5h (AC East 26a, Moran 27b, SAC 4 212)
  - to Felikjoch
  - to Cabane Quintano Sella
Cabane Quintano Sella
- 3585m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m) via Castor (4228m), 4,5h, PD (Biner #404)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas (3394m) via Castor (4228m), 4h, PD (Biner #404)
  - to Felikjoch, F, 460m, 2h, (SAC 4 #238; AC E 28a; Moran 26d)
Cabane Gnifetti
- 3644m.
- Connections:
  - from Monte Rosahütte F, 5h.
  - from from Lysjoch (4151m), 1h, F (SAC 4 #282; Biner #409)
  - to to Lysjoch (4151m), F, 640m, 2,5h (SAC 4 #282; Biner #409; AC East #30b)
  - from With lift from Alagre to Punta Idren (3250m). From there 400m to hut
  - to Bivacco Felice Giordano, via Lysjoch., 1,5h. (SAC 4 #282)
Rifugio Regina Margherita
- 4554m.
- phone (pref)+39 163 910 39.
- Connections:
  - from Cabane Quintano Sella, over Lyskamm. AD, 8h. (Biner #411)
  - from Cabane Quintano Sella, passing Lyskamm. PD, 4h. (Biner #411)
  - from Monta Rosahütte PD+, 6h. (SAC 4 #368)
  - to Lysjoch, 1,5h (Moran 24a)
Rifugio Città di Mantova
- 3440m.
Bivacco Felice Giordano
- Balmenhorn. 4167m.
- Connections:
  - from Capane Gnifetti, via Lysjoch., 1,5h. (SAC 4 #282)
Monte Rosahütte
- 2795m.
- phone (pref)41 27 967 21 15.
- Connections:
  - from station Rotenboden (2815m, along Gornergratbahn), 2,5h, F (SAC 4 #1; Biner #406)
  - to Gandegghütte F, 2,5h. (SAC 4 #3)
  - to Schwarztor (3731m), PD+, 4h (SAC 4 #197)); further to bivouac Rossi e Volante or Rifugio val d'Ayas
  - to Zwillingsjoch/Passo de Verra (3845m), AD, 4-6h (SAC 4 #211); further to Rifugio val d'Ayas
  - to Felikjoch (4066m), AD, 5-7h (SAC 4 #235; AC E 28b); further to Cabane Quintano Sella
  - to Lysjoch (4246m), AD(+)/PD, 5h (SAC 4 #280/#281); further to Cabane Gnifetti F, 2,5h (SAC 4 #282) or Bivacco Felice Giordano F.
  - to Rifugio Regina Margherita PD+, 6h. (SAC 4 #368)
  - to bivacco Rossi e Volante PD, 4-4,5h. (SAC 4 #58)
  - to Cabane Gnifetti F/PD, 1460m, 5h.
Täschhütte
- 2701m.
- Connections:
  - from Täschalp (Ottavan, 2214m), 1,5h, (Biner #501)
Mischabeljoch Biwak
- 3851m.
- Connections:
  - from Täschhütte (2701m), 4h, AD- (Biner #506)
Domhütte
- 2940m.
- Connections:
  - from Randa (1407) in Mattertal, 4h (Biner #502)

Schaligletscher

Weisshornhütte
- 2932m.
- Connections:
  - from Randa (1407) in Mattertal, 4,5h. (Biner #31, SAC 3 #12)
Biwak am Schalijoch
- 3780m.
- Connections:
  - from Rothornhütte (3198m), via Schalihorn (3974m). AD, 8,5h. (Biner #314, SAC 3 #657, #658, #659)
  - from Schali (1426) in Mattertal between Randa and Täsch PD, 8h. (Biner #315)

Triftgletscher

Rothornhütte
- 3198m.
- Connections:
  - from Zermatt (1614m) in Mattertal, 4,5h. (Biner #311, SAC 3 #11, AC East #H4)

Zmuttgletscher

Cabane de la Dent Blanche
- 3507m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 5h, F (Biner #304)
  - from Zermatt in Mattertal (4h) or from lift station Furi (3h), (Brandt 3 #4)
Hörnlihütte
- Connections:
  - from lift station Schwarzee (2583m), 2h
Schönbielhütte
- Gps: lat: 614.750, long: 094.510, alt: 2694m.
- email: bielti.zermatt@gmx.ch , phone (pref)+41 27 967 13 54, (cell)+41 79 447 41 87.
- Connections:
  - from Zermatt, via Zmutt (1614m)., 4h. (Biner #306)
  - from lift station Schwarzee (2583m), 2,5h. (Biner #306, AC East #H1)

Schwarzee - Furggletscher

Hörnlihütte
- Connections:
  - from lift station Schwarzee (2583m), 2h

Breuil

Rifugio de Teodulo
- 3317m.
- Connections:
  - from Trockener Steg, F, 1,25h (SAC 4 #51)
  - from Tresta Grigia (Breuil - Plan Maison - Tresta Trigia lift), F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #52)
Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi
- 2802m.
- Connections:
  - from Breuil (2006m), 2,5h
Rifugio Carrell
- 3829m.
- Connections:
  - from Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi (2802m), 4,5h, PD (Brandt 3 #58)

Trockener Steg

Gandegghütte
- Located close to lift station >Trockener Steg (3029). Gps: lat: 45.96284, long: 7.75343, alt: 3029m.
- phone (pref)+41 27 9672112, (cell) , fax: +41 27 9672149 .
- Connections:
  - from Trockener Steg lift station, 0,5h, good path (SAC 4 #2)
  - from Monte Rosahütte F, 2,5h. (SAC 4 #3)
  - to Schwarztor, PD, 5h (SAC 4 #195)

Klein Matterhorn

bivacco Rossi e Volante
- Located very close to Schwarztor and Roccia Nera.. 3750m.
- Connections:
  - from Klein Matterhorn, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #57)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas F, 1,5h. (SAC 4 #59)
  - from Monte Rosahütte PD, 4-4,5h. (SAC 4 #58)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #213)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 0,25h (SAC 4 #200)

Val de Verax

bivacco Rossi e Volante
- Located very close to Schwarztor and Roccia Nera.. 3750m.
- Connections:
  - from Klein Matterhorn, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #57)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas F, 1,5h. (SAC 4 #59)
  - from Monte Rosahütte PD, 4-4,5h. (SAC 4 #58)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #213)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 0,25h (SAC 4 #200)
Rifugio Val d' Ayas
- 3394m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m), 3h, F (Biner #402)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #118)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 425m, 1-1,5h (AC East 26a, Moran 27b, SAC 4 212)
  - to Felikjoch
  - to Cabane Quintano Sella
Cabane Quintano Sella
- 3585m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m) via Castor (4228m), 4,5h, PD (Biner #404)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas (3394m) via Castor (4228m), 4h, PD (Biner #404)
  - to Felikjoch, F, 460m, 2h, (SAC 4 #238; AC E 28a; Moran 26d)

Aostatal

Rifugio Val d' Ayas
- 3394m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m), 3h, F (Biner #402)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #118)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 425m, 1-1,5h (AC East 26a, Moran 27b, SAC 4 212)
  - to Felikjoch
  - to Cabane Quintano Sella
Bivacco Giorgio e Renzo Novella
- 3706m.
- Connections:
  - from Over Dent d'Hérens (Biner #1070)
Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi
- 2802m.
- Connections:
  - from Breuil (2006m), 2,5h
Rifugio Carrell
- 3829m.
- Connections:
  - from Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi (2802m), 4,5h, PD (Brandt 3 #58)

Valle de Gressoney

Cabane Quintano Sella
- 3585m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m) via Castor (4228m), 4,5h, PD (Biner #404)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas (3394m) via Castor (4228m), 4h, PD (Biner #404)
  - to Felikjoch, F, 460m, 2h, (SAC 4 #238; AC E 28a; Moran 26d)
Cabane Gnifetti
- 3644m.
- Connections:
  - from Monte Rosahütte F, 5h.
  - from from Lysjoch (4151m), 1h, F (SAC 4 #282; Biner #409)
  - to to Lysjoch (4151m), F, 640m, 2,5h (SAC 4 #282; Biner #409; AC East #30b)
  - from With lift from Alagre to Punta Idren (3250m). From there 400m to hut
  - to Bivacco Felice Giordano, via Lysjoch., 1,5h. (SAC 4 #282)
Rifugio Città di Mantova
- 3440m.
Bivacco Felice Giordano
- Balmenhorn. 4167m.
- Connections:
  - from Capane Gnifetti, via Lysjoch., 1,5h. (SAC 4 #282)

Alagna - Valsesia

Rifugio Regina Margherita
- 4554m.
- phone (pref)+39 163 910 39.
- Connections:
  - from Cabane Quintano Sella, over Lyskamm. AD, 8h. (Biner #411)
  - from Cabane Quintano Sella, passing Lyskamm. PD, 4h. (Biner #411)
  - from Monta Rosahütte PD+, 6h. (SAC 4 #368)
  - to Lysjoch, 1,5h (Moran 24a)

Gornergletscher

Monte Rosahütte
- 2795m.
- phone (pref)41 27 967 21 15.
- Connections:
  - from station Rotenboden (2815m, along Gornergratbahn), 2,5h, F (SAC 4 #1; Biner #406)
  - to Gandegghütte F, 2,5h. (SAC 4 #3)
  - to Schwarztor (3731m), PD+, 4h (SAC 4 #197)); further to bivouac Rossi e Volante or Rifugio val d'Ayas
  - to Zwillingsjoch/Passo de Verra (3845m), AD, 4-6h (SAC 4 #211); further to Rifugio val d'Ayas
  - to Felikjoch (4066m), AD, 5-7h (SAC 4 #235; AC E 28b); further to Cabane Quintano Sella
  - to Lysjoch (4246m), AD(+)/PD, 5h (SAC 4 #280/#281); further to Cabane Gnifetti F, 2,5h (SAC 4 #282) or Bivacco Felice Giordano F.
  - to Rifugio Regina Margherita PD+, 6h. (SAC 4 #368)
  - to bivacco Rossi e Volante PD, 4-4,5h. (SAC 4 #58)
  - to Cabane Gnifetti F/PD, 1460m, 5h.

Täschalp

Täschhütte
- 2701m.
- Connections:
  - from Täschalp (Ottavan, 2214m), 1,5h, (Biner #501)
Mischabeljoch Biwak
- 3851m.
- Connections:
  - from Täschhütte (2701m), 4h, AD- (Biner #506)

Randa

Domhütte
- 2940m.
- Connections:
  - from Randa (1407) in Mattertal, 4h (Biner #502)

Saastal

Mischabelhütte
- 3329m.
- Connections:
  - from lift station Hanningalp (from Saas Fee) in Saastal, 3h (Biner #509)
Hotel Längflue
- 2867m.
Hooh Saas
Weissmies huts

Hochbalmgletcher

Mischabelhütte
- 3329m.
- Connections:
  - from lift station Hanningalp (from Saas Fee) in Saastal, 3h (Biner #509)

Feegletscher

Hotel Längflue
- 2867m.

Triftbach

Hooh Saas
Weissmies huts

Climbing info

General

After Mont Blanc area, Pennine Alps is the second most popular alpine climbing area in the Alps. All types of climbing is available in the area:

Classic mountaineering on high peaks. Great number of high peaks located in Monta Rosa group, many of them climbable in a multi-day trip aided huts located high on the ridge. Breithorn is reputedly the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps. Classic big peaks Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Dent Blanche Lyskamm with normal routes between PD+ and AD.
Technical mountaineering. Classic routes include ice faces on Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, Obergabelhorn, Lenzspitze, Breithorn and Matterhorn. Classic mixed ridges on Matterhorn, Nadelhorn and Täschhorn. Rock routes on Weisshorn, Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn and Signalkuppe.
Alpine rock climbing
Ice fall climbing, seasonal water ice climbing.
Ski mountaineering. Classic Haute Route (multi-day excursion from Chamonix to Zermatt)
Cragging, via ferrata

Most of the climbing routes in Pennine Alps are on snow, as the rock tends to be loose. There are several big mountains, often with big approaches. Saveral of the high peaks have relatively easy glacier ascents (such as Breithorn (4164m), Allalinhorn (4288m) and Alphubel (4206m)). However, there are also several very pointed mountains, such as Matterhorn (4478m), Weisshorn (4506m), Dent Blanche (4356m) and Zinalrothorn (4221m), that are demanding even on the easiest routes. Furthermore, North Face of Breithorn and East Faces of Monte Rosa and Lyskamm have host of the biggest ice routes in the Alps.

In the westernmost Pennine Alps, Grand Combin massif is the best known climbing objective. Other highlights include Mont Blanc de Cheilon and, Pigne d'Arolla and Mont Collon.

Dent Blanche and Dent d'Hérens both have several good routes but the undisputed king of the central part of Pennine Alps is the rocky pyramid of Matterhorn, quite possibly the most famous mountain of the world. Anyone attempting to normal route (Hörnligrat, AD-) during the summer months has to be prepared to share the mountain with numerous other parties. Despite fixed ropes, it is still one of the hard 4000m peaks with Normal route graded at AD- and featuring 1400m of ascent. Other routes see much less traffic. Other highlights of the area are classically beautiful Weisshorn with its long ridge routes while Obergabelhorn and Zinalrothorn have the best rock quality of the 4000m peaks around Zermatt.

Monta Rosa massif has 15-22 4000m peaks, depending on what is considered an independent peak. Several of the high peaks have relatively easy normal routes, Breithorn being reputably the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps. Also Castor and Pollux are very popular. Traverse of all 4000m peaks is possible in 4-7 days from Klein Matterhorn cable car using the huts on the Italian side. This traverse can be done various ways, those in search of climbing challenges include W-E traverse of Breithorn (AD+) and traverse of Lyskamm (W-E, AD/AD+), both of which are avoidable if easier alternative is wanted. There are also plethora of harder routes, especially classic are North faces of Breithorn and Lyskamm and gigantic East Face of Monte Rosa. There are also hard rock ridge on Nordend, Dufourspitze and Signalkuppe.

In Mischabel group, Strahlhorn, Rimpfischhorn and Alphubel all have easy normal routes, and are well suited for acclimatization. Dom and Täschhorn are big mountains, both of which have important routes. Especially the latter is both long and challenging, even on the easiest routes. Traverse of the Nadelgrat consisting of Lenzspitze in the south, Nadelhorn, Steccknadelhorn, Hochbärghorn and Dirruhorn is a classic (several variations and both directions are feasible). Arguable the best climbing is found between Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn. One interesting and varied way is to start with NE face of Lenzspitse (Dreieselswand (D/D+), then follow Nadelgrat to Dirruhorn and return to Mischabel huts over Windjoch.

The highest and finest mountain of the easternmost part of Pennine Alps is Weissmies (4023m). It, as well as the other high peaks of the group Fletschhorn (3993m) and Lagginghorn (4010m) all have easy glacier climbs with the latter being one of the easiest 4000m peaks in the Alps. North face on Fletschhorn is the most interesting feature of the area.

Grading

Several grading systems are used depending on the type of climbing:

Alpine climbs: International French adjectival system is most common system used to grade alpine climbs. Several climbs have been graded using Bernese Alps G-grade as well.
Rock climbs: For alpine rock routes UIAA grade is used. Standard aid climbing grade is used when appropriate.
Ice & mixed: For moderate and middle grade climbs, most common way is to express the steepness either as maximum or average angle of the slope. For the difficult routes, WI grading is used, usually as two-part variation (including commitment grade). For mixed stuff, some modern routes sometimes use M grades for mixed sections, which certainly tells a lot more about the actual demands met by a climber rather than more commonly used normal rock grade. British guidebooks sometimes use Scottish winter grade.

Grading

Rescue

Switzerlang in general and Pennine Alps in particular have a good rescue system. It does come with considerable cost though, be sure to have valid insurance.

Alpine distress signal

6 x within a minute with regular intervals, give some sort of visual or acoustic signal. Then pause for a minute and repeat the signal until you get an answer. To answer: 3 x within a minute - one minute pause.

Telephone

Switzerland +41
Italy +39

Rescue services

REGA
- phone (pref)+4113831111, (cell) .
Police
- phone (pref)117.
Air Glacier
- phone (pref)027/3226464.
Air Zermatt
- phone (pref)027/9662966.
Heliport Aosta
- phone (pref)+3916544306.

Seasons and weather

Summer season between July and September, with late August being probably the most crowded. Conditions vary a great deal between summers, valleys are often very hot and it may be quite warm high up in the mountains as well. Make no mistake though, people freeze to death on the slopes of Mont Blanc area every summer. Most popular routes usually have good paths which make route finding much easier that it would be otherwise. That being said, it is very much possible to get plenty of new snow during the summer, so don't count on there being a path through crevasse labyrinths on the glaciers.

For ice routes spring usually has better conditions (April-June). Later in the year some ice routes are still possible but harder due to blank ice and may be unjustifiably dangerous, some routes are just out of nick in the summer season. Most huts are not open before start of July, so north face aspirants mostly need to use the winter rooms, bivouac huts or bivouac outside. Winter conditions are usually at best between January and February for ice fall climbing.

Gipfelbuch - Touren. Gipfelbuch by Bergtour.ch is closest thing to OHM there is for other areas. At Bergportal.ch.

References

Authoritative guide to the area is Swiss Alpine Club's Clubführer, available in six volumes both in German and French. For those limited to English, English Alpine club has good guidebook available in two volumes. There are also several guidebooks with selected routes. All the books featuring the 4000m peaks naturally have loads of info on routes on Valais 4000m peaks, they mostly cover only normal routes though. Exception is Martin Moranäs book "The 4000m Peaks of the Alps", it has also several mid range routes and include also selection of difficult routes. Michel Vaucher's book "100 Schönsten Gipfelziele in Walliser Alpen", also available in French is a bit outdatetd as a guidebook but gives good tips on worthwhile routes. See Les Alpes Valaisannes - Les 100 plus belles courses for online list of the routes.

Best maps are Swiss Landeskarte maps available in 1:25 000.

Western Pennine Alps (Grand Combin)

Swiss Landeskarte: 1325 (Sembrancher).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1326 (Rosablanche).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1345 (Orsières).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1346 (Chanrion).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1347 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1365 (Gd-St-Bernard).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1366 (Mont Vélan).
Swiss Landeskarte: 5003 (Mont Blanc-Grand Combin).

Col Collon - Theodulpass

Swiss Landeskarte: 1307 (Vissoei).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1308 (St.Niklaus).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1327 (Evolène).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1328 (Randa).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1347 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 5006 (Matterhorn-Mischabel).

Theodulpass - Monte Moro (Monte Rosa)

Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 2115 (Zermatt - Gornergrat).
Swiss Landeskarte: 284 (Gressoney), 1:50 000.
Swiss Landeskarte: 294 (Matterhorn-Mischabel), 1:50 000.

Mischabel group

Swiss Landeskarte: 1308 (St.Niklaus).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1309 (Simplon).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1328 (Randa).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1329 (Saas).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1349 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 274 (Visp), 1:50 000.
Swiss Landeskarte: 284 (Mischabel), 1:50 000.

Weissmies group

Swiss Landeskarte: 1308 (St.Niklaus).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1309 (Simplon).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1328 (Randa).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1329 (Saas).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1349 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 5006 (Matterhorn-Mischabel).
Swiss Landeskarte: 274 (Visp), 1:50 000.
Swiss Landeskarte: 284 (Mischabel), 1:50 000.

Overview map with Mischabel, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn - Weisshorn groups
Zermatt. The site has maps of Switzerland that zoom in to great detail, looks a lot like 1:25.000 maps with full detail. Unfortunately the maps are available only through rather small viewport. At Map+.

Biner Hermann: Hochtouren im Wallis - Auswahlführer. SAC Verlag, 2002.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 1 - vom Trient zum Gr. St. Bernhardt. SAC Verlag, 1999.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 2 - vom Gr. St. Bernhardt zum Theodulspass. SAC Verlag, 1999.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 3 - vom col Collon zum Theodulpass. SAC Verlag, 1993.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 4 - vom Theodulpass zum Monte Moro. SAC Verlag, 1993.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 5 - vom Strahlhorn zum Simplon. SAC Verlag, 1993.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 6 - vom Simplon zum Nufenenpass (Gonerli). SAC Verlag, 1994.
Swindin Les & Fleming Peter: Valais Alps East - Selected Climbs. Alpine Club, 1999. Isbn: 090052362X.
Swindin Les & Fleming Peter: Valais Alps West - Selected Climbs. Alpine Club, 1998. Isbn: 0900523611.
Vauchere Michel: Walliser Alpen - die 100 schönsten Touren, 2 Auflag edition. Bruckmann Verlag, 1990.
Waeber M: Gebietsführer Walliser Alpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1999.

Mischabel group. Area page. At SummitPost.
Monte Rosa group. Area page. At SummitPost.
Mountaineering in Valais. General information about the area and bases, links and some route descriptions. By Andy Clifton.
Pennine Alps. Area page. At SummitPost.
Pennine Alps. Area page. At Peakware.
Valais Alps - 1. Arolla. Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.
Valais Alps - 2. Zermatt. Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.
Valais Alps - 3. Saas Valley. Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.
Weissmies group. Area page. At SummitPost.

Valleys

The absolute center of mountaineering activities in Valais Alps is Mattertal, with well-known villages like Randa, Täsch and Zermatt. From this valley no less than 31 4000-metre peaks can be reached, among these Matterhorn 4478m, peaks of Monte Rosa Massif (Dufourspitze 4634m) and peaks of Mischabel Group (Dom 4545m). Another important valley is Saastal, which have many mountains in common with Mattertal plus a few of its own. Thirteen 4000-metre peaks can be reached from this valley, among these Nadelhorn 4327m and Weissmies 4023m. Also worth mentioning is Val de Zinal in Anniviers, a more quiet valley with access to one of the highest mountains in the Alps: the beautiful Weisshorn 4505m, as well as four more 4000-metre peaks. West of the Zermatt valley, the mountains are mainly lower and more remote, although at the chain's western extremity, the icy massif of Grand Combin rises to 4314m.

From north

Rhône valley

Main valley on the Swiss side, running more or less in West to East direction. Easily accessible either with car or by train from Geneva (nearest international airport) and Martigny. Main cities Sion, Brig and Visp. Rhône valley is used to access numerous side valleys located closer to the climbs.

Val d'Entremont

Bourg St.Pierre is located on the road through Gd. St. Bernard. It is located immediately to the west of Grand Comin and therefore suitable base for climbs from the west and south. Cabane de Valsorey and bivouac B. Musso are the most conveniently located bases for climbing Grand Combing starting from Bourg St. Pierre.

Grand Combin (4320m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]
Monte Velán

Val de Bagnes

Access to north and east side climbs on Grand Combin is most convenient from Fionnay (1490m). From there hike to Cabane de Panossière (2669m) takes 4h. Cabane de Chanrion (2462m) located further up the valley, close to Mt. Avril, Mt. Gelé and La Ruinette.

Cabane de Panossière
Cabane de Chanrion

Grand Combin (4320m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]
Mont Avril
Monte Gelé
La Ruinette (3875m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]

Val d'Hérens

Val d'Hérens is large valley located in the western part of Valais Alps.ö The upper valley is divided into three forks. Easily accessed from Sion in main Rhône valley. Arolla located at the end of the valley is the center for climbing activity. From there several huts can be reached to access the climbs. namesake of the valley, Den d'Hérens, is not readily climbable from val d'Hérens. Highest objectives, Dent Blanche and Grand Cornier are located to the west of the valley and best accessible from Ferpècle. Mont Collon, Pigne d'Arolla and Mont Blanc de Cheilon are the best known climbs around Arolla.

Mont Collon, Bouquetins

Val d'Hérens

Dix valley

Cabane des Dix

Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla (3646m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]
Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]
La Ruinette (3875m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]
La Luette
Le Pleureur

Arolla

The the west of Arolla lie Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla and to the southwest chain Le Pleneur - La Luette - Mont Blanc de Cheilon and Pigne d'Arolla. Also climbs on Mont Gelé - Aouille Tseugue - La Singla -l'Evêque - Mont Collon can be reached from Arolla. Climbs on these parts are most readily accessed from Cabane des Dix (2928), Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (2810m), Cabane des Vignettes (3158m) or Cabane de Bertol (3311m), all approached from Arolla.

To the east of Arolla lie Monte Brule - Bouquetins - Aiguille de la Tsa - Dent de Perroc - Dents the Veisivi -chain. Climbs on these chains are mostly reached from Cabane de Bertol (3311m), Cabane de la Tsa (2607m) or Refuge des Bouquetins (2980m).

Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges
Cabane des Vignettes
Cabane de Bertol
Cabane de la Tsa
Refuge des Bouquetins

Bouquetins - Dents de Perroc group
Mont Collon group
Pigne d'Arolla (3796m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]
Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla (3646m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]
Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m), [Western Valais (Grand Combin)]

Ferpècle

Side valley branching to the east from Les Haudères with the village Ferpècle is starting points eastern side of Monte Brule - Bouquetins - Aiguille de la Tsa - Dent de Perroc - Dents the Veisivi -chain. The chain has mainly good rock climbs on excellent rock. North side on Monte Brulee is exception with ice routes between AD and TD. However, Grand Cornier, Dent Blanche and Téte Blanche located to the east of the valley are likely the best known climbing objectives from the valley. Cabane de la Dent Blanche is the most important hut reached from Ferpècle.

It is possible to cross over to Schönbielhütte in Mattertal through col d'Hérens or to Grand Mountet hut via col de la Dent Blanche.

Bivouac du Col de la Dent Blanche
Cabane de la Dent Blanche

Grand Cornier (3962m), West side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Grand Cornier (3962m), South side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Dent Blanche (4356m), North side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Dent Blanche (4356m), West side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Dent Blanche (4356m), South side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Bouquetins - Dents de Perroc group

Val d'Anniviers

Also worth mentioning is Val de Zinal in Anniviers, a more quiet valley with access to one of the highest mountains in the Alps: the beautiful Weisshorn 4505m, as well as four more 4000-metre peaks.

The valley can also be accessed from Mattertal via Schönbielhütte and Col Durand, from Mattertal via Arben Biwak and Arbenjoch, from mattertal via Rothornhütte or from val d'Hérens via Col de la Dent Blanche.

Lac de Moiry

Bivouac du Col de la Dent Blanche
Cabane du Mountet
Cabane du Tracuit

Brunegghorn (3833m), [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Bishorn (4153m), NW flank, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (II F/G1-2; I on the summit ridge)
Bishorn (4153m), NE face, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (D/G10; 50-58°, IV)
Weisshorn (4506m), NE face, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (D+/TD; 55°)
Weisshorn (4506m), North ridge, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (AD+; III+, 45°)
Weisshorn (4506m), West face, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (AD+/D-; 5a/4b,A0/IV)
Zinalrothorn (4221m), North side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Weisshorn (4506m), Schaligrat, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (IV D; IV, 45)
Zinalrothorn (4221m), West side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Obergabelhorn (4062m), North side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Obergabelhorn (4062m), West side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Dent Blanche (4356m), North side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Dent Blanche (4356m), East side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Grand Cornier (3962m), North side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Grand Cornier (3962m), East side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Grand Cornier (3962m), South side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Bouquetins - Dents de Perroc group

Val d'Anniviers. Area page. At SummitPost.

Turtmanntal

Located between Val d'Anniviers in West and Mattertal in east. Access from Turtmann in Rhone valley, lift to 1340, walking from there to Turtmannhütte, located ate the end of the valley. From there to Cabane de Tracuit.?

Cabane du Tracuit
Turtmannhütte

Brunegghorn (3833m), [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Bishorn (4153m), NW flank, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (II F/G1-2; I on the summit ridge)
Bishorn (4153m), NE face, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (D/G10; 50-58°, IV)
Weisshorn (4506m), NE face, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (D+/TD; 55°)
Weisshorn (4506m), North ridge, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (AD+; III+, 45°)

Mattertal

The absolute center of mountaineering activities on these many summits is the Mattertal, with well-known villages Randa, Täsch and Zermatt. From this valley no less than 31 4000-meter peaks can be reached, among these Matterhorn 4478m, peaks of Monte Rosa Massif (Dufourspitze 4634m) and peaks of Mischabel Group (Dom 4545m).

Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weisshorn - Bishorn chain has numerous worthwhile climbs. Reaching those is taxing though, as there are no lifts and the actual climbs are large in scale as well. Normal route of Bishorn is the only easy route in the chain. Classically beautiful Weisshorn has several long ridge routes while Obergabelhorn and Zinalrothorn have the best rock quality of the 4000m peaks around Zermatt. North faces of Bishorn and Obergabeljhorn are gems for those looking for steep alpine ice.

Climbs in Téte Blanche - Dent d'Hérens - Matterhorn chain can be reached from Hörnli and Schönbiel huts, both of which are reached from middle station of Klein Matterhorn lift. Dent Blanche and Dent d'Hérens both have several good routes but the undisputed king of the central part of Pennine Alps is the rocky pyramid of Matterhorn, quite possibly the most famous mountain of the world. Anyone attempting to normal route (Hörnligrat, AD-) during the summer months has to be prepared to share the mountain with numerous other parties. Despite fixed ropes, it is still one of the hard 4000m peaks with Normal route graded at AD- and featuring 1400m of ascent. Other routes see much less traffic.

Mattertal is used to reach the climbs on the west side of Mischabel group. There are no lifts, so reaching Täschhütte (2701m), Domhütte (2940m) or Mischabeljoch-biwak (3851m) already requires considerable ascent. Main climbing objectives are Täschhoirn and Dom, both requiring ascent of more than 1500m along the easiest routes. Ascent from Mattertal to Täschhütte and further to Mischabeljoch-biwak, then doing the traverse from Täscchorn to Dom is considered classic.

Weisshorn (4506m), NE face, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (D+/TD; 55°)
Weisshorn (4506m), East side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]

Triftgletscher

Rothornhütte

Zinalrothorn (4221m), South side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Wellenkuppe (3903m), NE side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (D)
Obergabelhorn (4062m), NE side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]

Zmuttgletscher

Schönbielhütte, Arbenbiwak, Cabane de la Dent Blanche, Bivacco Novella, Bivacco Benedetti

Cabane de la Dent Blanche
Hörnlihütte
Schönbielhütte

Obergabelhorn (4062m), West side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Obergabelhorn (4062m), South side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Matterhorn (4478m), Zmuttgrat, [Col Collon - Theodulpass] (D/G9; 3c/IV and III, 50°)
Dent d'Hérens (4171m), North side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]

Dom (4545m), Traverse from Täschhorn
Täschhorn (4490m)
Alphubel (4206m), West side
Allalinhorn (4027m), West side
Rimpfischhorn (4199m), West side

Randa

Domhütte

Lenzspitze (4294m), West side
Dom (4545m), West side

Saastal

Another important valley is Saastal, which have many mountains in common with Mattertal plus a few of its own. Thirteen 4000-metre peaks can be reached from this valley, among these Nadelhorn 4327m and Weissmies 4023m.

Villages Saas fee, Saas Grund, Saas Balen and Saas Allmagel all are skiing resorts, thus some ski lifts can be used to reach the climbs.

Highest and arguably the most impressive mountains that can be climbed from Saastal are the high peaks of Mischabel group. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, Mischabelhütte (3329m), Längflue (2867m) and Mischabeljoch-Biwak (3851m) are the only huts available form reaching the climbs on Mischbel chain.

Strahlhorn, Rimpfischhorn and Alphubel all have easy normal routes, and are well suited for acclimatization. saastal can be used to gain access to two impressive and classic ridge traverses, Täschhorn - Dom and Nadelgrat, the latter consisting of Lenzspitze in the south, Nadelhorn, Steccknadelhorn, Hochbärghorn and Dirruhorn (several variations and both directions are feasible, arguably the best climbing is found between Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn). One interesting and varied way is to start with NE face of Lenzspitse (Dreieselswand (D/D+), then follow Nadelgrat to Dirruhorn and return to Mischabel huts over Windjoch.

To reach climbs on Weissmies group, Hooh Saas and Weissmies huts are the most common hut bases. The highest and finest mountain of the easternmost part of Pennine Alps is Weissmies (4023m). It, as well as the other high peaks of the group Fletschhorn (3993m) and Lagginghorn (4010m) all have easy glacier climbs with the latter being one of the easiest 4000m peaks in the Alps. North face on Fletschhorn is the most interesting feature of the area.

Saas Fee

Saas Fee

Hochbalmgletcher

Dirruhorn (4035m)
Hochbärghorn (4219m)
Nadelhorn (4327m), North side
Lenzspitze (4294m), North side

Feegletscher

Lenzspitze (4294m), SE side
Dom (4545m), East side
Täschhorn (4490m), East side
Alphubel (4206m), Nort side
Alphubel (4206m), East side
Alphubel (4206m), South side
Allalihorn, Nort side

Allalingletcher

Allalihorn, Nort side
Allalihorn, East side
Allalihorn, South side
Rimpfishhorn
Strahlhorn (4190m), North side

Triftbach

Allalinhorn (4027m), West side
Weissmies (4023m), NW side

Almagellertal

Weissmies (4023m), South side

Simplon

Fletschhorn (3993m), North side
Fletschhorn (3993m), East side
Lagginghorn, East side
Weissmies (4023m), NE side

Simplon

From south

Aosta valley

Main Aosta valley gives access to numerous side valley, that can be used to access climbs in Pennine Alps. Main convenient centeres to access climbs from Aostatal are Breuil-Cervinia,Gressoney Saint Jean and Alagna Valsesia, all of which are accessed from main Aosta valley. Closest major cities are Chatillon (27km, train), Turin (150km, airport) and Milan.

Further to the east lie valle d'Ayas with Champoluc (1575m), valle Gressoney with Gressoney Saint Jean (1624m) and Valsesia with Alagna. These three valley form skiing area Monterosa ski with numerous lifts which can aid in reaching huts located on the Italian side of Monta Rosa: val d'Ayas (3425), Quintano Sella (3585), Gnifetti hut (3611m), Rifugio Mantova (3498) and rifugio Regina Margherita.

Glacier des Grandes Murailles

Tête Blanche (3724m), South side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Tête Valpelline (3802m), West side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Tête Valpelline (3802m), South side, [Col Collon - Theodulpass]
Dent d'Herens, South side

Breuil

Breuil-Cervinia (2006m) and Valtournenche are located along the road towards north from the main Aosta valley. Breuil-Cervinia is located not too far away from Matterhorn on the Italian side. There are several ski-lifts and a few huts available from Breuil-Cervinia, the most important of which being Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi (2802m) and Rifugio Carrell (3829m), both of which are used to climb Matterhorn along the Liongrat, by far the best known climb from Breuil-Cervinia.