Pennine Alps - Mountains

• PD, 45°, I. 1650m, 6-8h from Panossiérehütte (2645m)

Biner #218; SAC 2 #338

• Old normal route. Technically easiest route, but very serious (comparable to Russion Roulette) due to ice fall danger when crossing accross NW face under big seracs.
• PD/G4, 45°. 1650m, 6-7h from Panossiérehütte

• AD+, 50° (occasionally steeper on seracs). 1450m, 5h from Valsorey hut

• Route starts at 3550m.
• D/D+, 60°, III. 700m, 4h. 5-7h from Valsorey hut

Biner #219; SAC 2 #349

NW Face of Combin de Valsorey

Route page at SummitPost.

• Normal route. The easiest and most popular route, both in ascent and in descent. From hut to Wandfluelücke (3703m). Through couloir to South Ridge. Grand Gendarme is turned on the left via Couloir de la Mort (direct IV+). Further along firn ridge to the summit. Descent to Ferpècle (5h).
• AD (G5), III, 35°. 850m, 3-6h from Dent Blache hut

Biner #350; SAC 3 #274,275; Goedeke #pp 117

Dent Blanche (4357 m)

South Ridge (Normal route) AD. Report 20.-21. August 1998 by Hartmut Bielefeldt.

• Routes coming from Mountet and Schönbiel huts join above P. 3975
• D, III+ and III. 1500m, 11-15h from Mountet hut

Biner #351; SAC 3 #291,292

• Most difficult of the three main routes. Starting point either Dent Blanche hut or bivouac in Col de la Dent Blanche.
• D+, IV+, IV and III. 850m, 7h

Biner #354; SAC 3 #280

• Mixed line on NW Face, joins Ferpeclegrat below the summit.
• TD/TD+, V/V+. 950m, 12-15h from Bivouac Dent Blanche

• More difficult and less popular than other three ridges.
• TD+, V+. 950m, 12-15h

• Straighter and more difficult line than the original (TD) route of NNE Face. Mixed on mostly ice/snow.
• ED1/2, V/V+. 950m, 12-15h from Bivouac Dent Blanche

SAC 3 #288

• Normal route. Long glacier tour via Glacier des Grandes Murailles and Tiefenmattenjoch
• PD+/AD- (G4), I-II. 600m, 3h from Tiefenmattenjoch, 1400m, 5-6h from Aosta hut

Biner #346; SAC 3 #1061; Goedeke #pp 169

Dent d'Hérens vom Rifugio Aosta

Trip Report and route description by Hartmut Bielefeldt. In German.

• D (G9), IV and III. 700m, climbing distance 2km, 8-10h from Col Tournauche

Biner #347; SAC 3 #1070

• Normal route from Schönbiel hütte.
• AD/D (G6), III, 45°. 7h

Biner #345; SAC 3 #1106

• Seracs, difficult rock in the upper part.
• TD+ (G13), 90°, IV. 1300m, 10-15h

• Normal route. First ascent route and by far the most popular route on Matterhorn. Very famous and popular, crowded during the season. There are fixed ropes along the route. Using them difficulty is III-, A0, mostly II (sustained). IV+ if climbed free. Summit slopes mixed.
• III AD- (G5, NZ3+/4, NCCS III), III,A0. 1200m, climbing distance 1700m, 5-6h from Hörnlihut (3260m)

Biner #341,342; SAC 3 #1106,1107; Goedeke #pp 162

Climbing the Matterhorn

Hörnligrat by Stefan Griebel.

Hörnligrat

A climb by Bernd Busam.

Matterhorn Hörnligrat

Hörnligrat by Hartmut Bielefeldt.

Hörnligrat)

From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps.

Matterhorn Traverse

Traverse of Matterhorn with ascent via Hörnligrat and descent via Liongrat in August 1996 by Dietmar Hahm.

• From Biwak Bossi (3300m) in Breuljoch. Unstable rock.
• D/TD- (G12?), IV+ (direct variant VI). 1150m, 8-12h

SAC 3 #1108

Furggengrat

From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps

• Classic. One of the four classic north faces in the Alps. Steep ice with IV and V on rock. Unstable rock. Starting point Hörnli hut
• TD/ED1 (G12), IV+/V, M5, AI1-2 (55°). 1100m, 10-12h

• ED2/3, VI+,A1

• ED+ (G16), VI+,A3, AI1 (50°). 1218m, 2-3 days

• ED+, 90-°, M5 f6b/b+,A0. 1000m

• Classic route, often used in descent. Less crowded than Hörnligrat.
• AD/D (G7, Rus 4A/B), III,A0 (free at IV). 650m/1680m, 5h from Carrell hut to summit

Biner #344; SAC 3 #1110,1111; Goedeke #pp 162

Liongrat

From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps

• Good classic ridge with no fixed gear. Seldom in condition. Either from Hörnlihütte or from Schönbielhütte
• D (G9), IV and III, 50°. 1200m, 7-9h from Hörnlihut

Biner #343; SAC 3 #1113

• Mummery Albert Frederick: My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.

Zmuttgrat

From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps

West Face

From Mike's Mountaineering Guide to the Swiss Alps.

• Very useful as descent in a traverse. From Mountet hut (2886m) via Mont Durand to Arbenjoch (3570m, Arben Bivouac hut). From there 2,5-3h to summit.
• AD, III+. 500m/1200m. 2,5-3h from Arben Biwak to summit.

Biner #363; SAC 3 #543; AC East #3c

• AD+. 850m, 4h from Arben bivouac hut (3224m), 3,75h from Obergabeljoch (3597m)

• Firm gneiss
• AD/D, IV and III. 850m, 6h from Arben bivouac hut

Biner #364; SAC 3 #539; AC East #3b

• From glacier Durand and NNW ridge. Mixed with loose rock, not recommended in descent.
• AD, III, 50°. 6h from Mountet hut (2886m)

Biner #361; SAC 3 #546; AC East #3d

• Classic. One of the nicest ice faces in Pennine Alps. From Mountet hut head southeast across the Glacier de Mountet to the base of the North Couloir. Follow the Couloir up to the base of the face, pass the bergschrund and climb the face (500m, average angle 55°). Last 100m are significantly steeper, but the route avoids it (TD, loose rock). Also possible from Rothorn hut (3198m).
• IV D+/TD-, IV/AI2 M2 (55°), III. 500m, 2,5-4h; 1250m from from Mountet hut.

Biner #362; SAC 3 #548; Waeber #439; AC East #3e

• Normal route. Most popular route, mostly on snow and ice. From Rothorn hut at first to Wellenkuppe (PD, II+, 2,5h) and further traverse to the summit (another 1,5-2,5h). The most difficult part is passing the Grand Gendarme (3870m) between Wellenkuppe and Obergabelhorn (III,A0).
• AD, III,A0, 50°. 850m, 5-6h from Rothorn Hut

Biner #360; SAC 3 #568; Goedeke #pp 115; AC East #3a

• PD, II+. 2,5h

• One of the finest ridge climbs in the Alps. Excellent rock.
• AD+/D (G8), IV and III+. 370m, 3-4h from Oberrotjoch. 1100m, 7h from Rothorn hut

Biner #369; SAC 3 #596; AC East #6b

• Normal route. Exposed rock climbing III-, mostly II and I.
• AD-/AD, III-, mostly II and I. 1050m, 4-5h from Rothorn hut

Biner #367; SAC 3 #594; Goedeke #pp 111

• More difficult and direct finish to normal route.
• TD- (G10), V and IV+. 4-5h

AC East #6e

• From Mountet hut via Mountet glacier
• AD (G7), III/III+ and II. 1400m from Mountet hut

Biner #368; SAC 3 #589; AC East #6c

• Normal route. The climb must be started from the valley (Randa 1407m), altogether 3100m of ascent.
• III AD (G5), III- (places), mostly II and I, 45°). 1600m, 6-7h from Weisshorn hut

Biner #376; SAC 3 #672; Goedeke #pp 107; AC East #12a

• Classic ice route
• D. 7-10h from Weisshorn hut

AC East #12e

• D+/TD, 55°. 1000m

AC East #12g

• Classic. Elegant rock route, reputable the finest route on Weisshorn.
• IV D, IV, 45°. 750m, 5-7h from Schali bivouac

Biner #378; SAC 3 #676; AC East #12b

• AD+, III+, 45°. 450m from Weisshornjoch, 8h from Cabane de Tracuit

Biner #377; SAC 3 #683; AC East #12d

• Most logical line on the face leading tho great gendarme on the North Ridge.
• AD+/D-, IV. 6-8h from d'Ar Pitetta

AC East #12e

• F (G1-2), I on the summit ridge. 930mm, 2-3h from Tracuit hut

Biner #379; SAC 3 #690; Goedeke #pp 105; AC East #13a

Im kleinen Paradies

By Hans Sterr.

Bishorn (4153 m), 14.-15. August 1996

By M.Meier.

• D (G10), 50-58°, IV. 650m

Biner #380; SAC 3 #693; AC East #13b

• AD. 1300m, 5h from Gandegghütte

Moran #29b; AC East #23b; SAC 4 #133

• Pass the lower bergschrund immediately to the right of prominent rocks. Climb the ice to the right of rocks, then pass the rock band to gain the ice spur to the left of the rocks by climbing through the rock couloir below prominent ice ramp (mixed up to IV) to gain firn spur below second bergschrund ~3650m). Alternative start is to follow the direct variant by climbing immediately above bergschrund diagonally to the left over mixed terrain to get to the ice on the left of the rocky part (depending of the conditions up to 70° and IV). Then over the bergschrund and through ice field (60°) to gain summit rocks (III) and lower angled snow field above (45°).
• TD, IV or III (depending on variation and conditions), 60°-70°. 1100m, 5-8h (face)

Biner #420; SAC 4 #139; Moran #29g; AC East #23c

• Pass the lower bergschrund immediately to the right of prominent rocks. Climb the ice to the right of rocks to gain the prominent ice ramp (mixed up to 55-60°) to gain firn spur below second bergschrund ~3650m). Then over the bergschrund and through ice field (60°) to gain summit rocks (III) and lower angled snow field above (45°).Crux is the left-slanting couloir leaving lower ice field.
• TD, 60°. 1100m, 5-8h (face)

Alpine north faces

Trip report of ascent through Welzenbach route. At Alpine Style! blog of Massive Vinny

• Classic. Classic large scale mixed/ice ridge, easier alternative to NW face. From Gandegghütte to Triftjisattel (3250m, 2-2,5h). From there to Triftjiplateau (3750, 2-2,5h) and further through ice/snow slopes (55°) to rock barrier (III) and finally along easier angled snow slopes to the summit (2,5-3h from Triftjiplateau).
• AD/D, III and II, 55°. 1150m, 8h from Gandegg hut

Biner #421; SAC 4 #141; Moran #29f; AC East #23e

• D, IV (yds 5.4), 55°. 1450m, 8h from Gandegg hut; 750m, 6-7,5h from Rossi e Volante bivouac hut. Traverse to West summit additional 3-3,5h.

Biner #422; SAC 4 #167; Moran #29h; AC East #23m

• D/TD-. 700m

• Normal route. Reputably the easiest route on a 4000m peak in the Alps. Very popular, possibly the busiest in the Alps. From the station of Klein Matterhorn lift (3883m). Glacier ascent, few crevasses. Traverse to middle summit is easy ridge traverse (F/PD).
• F/PD- (G1), 35°. 350m, 1-2h

Moran #29a; AC East #23a; SAC 4 #129

• Slightly less crowded alternative to the normal route. From Klein Matterhorn to Plateau Rosa (3820m) and further to West summit.
• F. 3h

• Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)). From Klein Matterhorn to Rossi e Volante bivouac hut or to Val d' Ayas hut. This can serve as a more demanding start to traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. This is probably also around AD+. There are no equipped rappels (most part of the route can be downclimbed).

• From Klein Matterhorn to Plateau Rosa (3820m) and further to Central summit
• PD, 35-40°. 450m, 4h roundtrip from Klein Matterhorn

Moran #29b; AC East #23f; SAC 4 #161 (144)

• Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Shorter version of the classic ridge traverse. Climb to the saddle (4022m) between Eastern and central summits up a snow flank (45-50°) and continuing over Central summit to West summit. This makes the traverse shorter, but no less difficult. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)).
• III AD/AD+, 45-50°, IV. 500m, 3,5-4h from Cesare e Giorgio Rossi bivouac hut; 850m, 5-6h from Val d'Ayas, 520m, 4,5-5 from Klein Matterhorn

Moran #29d; AC East #23w; SAC 4 #193

• Classic. Mixed ridge with cornices. Rock quality is not very good. Most difficult part is three rock steps between the saddle and central summit (IV+, short section, can be avoided (then ~III)). Normally climbed from east to west. hut or Klein Matterhorn, but then even longer. It is also possible to do a half traverse by climbing to the saddle (4022m) between Eastern and central summits up a snow flank (45-50°) and continuing over Central summit to West summit. This makes the traverse shorter, but no less difficult. AD+, IV+. It is also possible to do the traverse in opposite direction starting from Klein Matterhorn to Rossi e Volante bivouac hut or to Val d' Ayas hut. This can serve as a more demanding start to traverse of Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain. This is propably also around AD+. There are no equipped rappels (most part of the route can be downclimbed).
• III AD/AD+, 45-50°, IV. 730m, 5-7h from Cesare e Giorgio Rosi bivouac hut (3750); 1180m, 6,5-8,5h from Val d'Ayas

Moran #29e; AC East #23w; SAC 4 #193

• Either from Val d'Ayas hut (south) or Monte Rosa hut (north).
• AD, 45°. 3,5h, 1350m, 4,5-6h from Monte Rosa hut

Moran #28d; AC East #25c; SAC 4 #209

• Follows the ridge from Schwarztor to summit. Often climbed as a part of traverse of Pollux (which in turn is often included in a multi-day traverse on Breithorn - Monte Rosa chain).
• AD-/AD. 290m, 1,5-2h

• Easier alternative to SW ridge
• PD, 50°. 290m, 1,5-2h

• From Zwillingsjoch (between Pollux and Castor) along the ridge to the summit. Serves as a descent when traversing the Pollux. When used in ascent, Val d'Ayas hut is the most conveniently placed starting point.
• PD, II, 50°. 250m, 1h

Moran #28b; AC East #25d; SAC 4 #210