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Pennine Alps

General information

The Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy are perhaps the most spectacular mountain chain in Europe. The range borders on the Great St. Bernard Pass and the Mont Blanc group in southwest, on the Upper Rhône Valley in the north, on the Simplon Pass and the Lepontine Alps in northeast and by the Dora Baltea River valley in south. The compact area boasts ten of the twelve highest summits in the Alps (the other two are part of the Mont Blanc Massif), most of them located in the frontier crest. The high mountains are separated by long narrow valleys.

Western Pennine Alps (Grand Combin): Western Pennine Alps are located between Col du Gross St.Bernhard and Val d'Hérens. The most important peak of the area is Grand Combin, a separate massif in the west. It forms a link between Pennine Alps and Mont Blanc Group. Other important peaks of the area include Mont Vélan (3731m), Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m), Pigne d'Arolla (3796m) and Mont Collon (3637m).
Col Collon - Theodulpass: To the east of this chain are located Grand Cornier and Dent Blanche. They are connected to and Téte Blanche - Dent d'Hérens - Matterhorn chain on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Further north, between Grand Cornier and Matter valley lie chain Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weishorn - Bishorn.
Theodulpass - Monte Moro (Monte Rosa): Monte Rosa Massif on the frontier crest between Switzerland. It is a complex massif with dozens of summits, sharp ridges and massive glaciers. Depending on the consideration of subsidiary peaks, there are 15 - 22 4000m peaks, high point being the Dufourspitze at 4634m, the second highest mountain in the Alps. Northern slopes is made of not overtly steep glaciers while the Italien Southeastern side is dominated by over 2000m high East Face.
Mischabel Group: Mischabel massif is a 15 km long and 8 km large North-South branch connected to Monte Rosa massif. To Mischabel ridge belong lots of high peaks, from North to South: Gugla (3377m), Dirruhorn (formerly Dürrenhorn, 4035m), Hohbärghorn (4219m), Nadelhorn (4327m), Lenzspitze (4294m), Dom (4545m), Täschhorn (4496m), Alphubel (4206m), Feechopf (3888m), Allalinhorn (3288m), Rimpfischhorn (4199m), Strahlhorn(4190m) and a Point 3609m on the Switz-Italian border.
Weissmies Group: Weismiees Group is a 12km long and 8km wide ridge running from north to south in the North Eastern Pennine Alps, between Simplon Pass and Saas Valleys. The highest and finest mountain of the area is Weissmies (4023m). Other high peaks of the group are Fletschhorn (3993m) and Lagginghorn (4010m).

Logistics

Airport: Geneva, Zürich
Val d'Hérens
Val d'Anniviers
Mattertal
Saastal
Simplon
Aostatal

Accommodation

Rhône valley

Cabane de Panossière
- 2669m.
Cabane de Chanrion
- 2462m.

Val d'Hérens

Bivouac du Col de la Dent Blanche
- 3540m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 6h, F (Biner #303)
Cabane des Dix
- 2928m.
Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges
- 2810m.
Cabane des Vignettes
- 3158m.
Cabane de Bertol
- 3311m.
Cabane de la Tsa
- 2607m.
Refuge des Bouquetins
- 2980m.
Cabane de la Dent Blanche
- 2980m.

Val d'Anniviers

Bivouac du Col de la Dent Blanche
- 3540m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 6h, F (Biner #303)
Cabane du Mountet
- 2886m. Gps: lat: 616.630, long: 100.960 .
- phone (pref): +41 27 475 14 31, (cell): .
- Connections:
  - from Zinal (1675) in Val d'Anniviers, 4,5h, F (Biner #310)
  - from Zermatt via Schönbielhütte and Durand pass
Cabane du Tracuit
- 3256m. Gps: lat: 32.84000, long: 113.91 .
- phone (pref): +41 27 475 15 00, fax: +41 27 475 26 35 .
- Connections:
  - from Zinal (1675) in Val d'Anniviers, 4h (Biner #316)

Turtmanntal

Turtmannhütte
- 2519m.
- Connections:
  - from Vordere Sänntum (1901m) above Gruben in Turtmanntal, 2h (Biner #317)

Mattertal

Weisshornhütte
- 2932m.
- Connections:
  - from Randa (1407) in Mattertal, 4,5h (Biner #313)
Rothornhütte
- 3198m.
- Connections:
  - from Zermatt (1614m) in Mattertal, 4,5h (Biner #311)
Biwak am Schalijoch
- 3780m.
- Connections:
  - from Rothornhütte (3198) via Schalihorn (3974m), 8,5h, AD (Biner #314)
  - from Schali (1426) in Mattertal between Randa and Täsch, 8h, PD (Biner #315)
Cabane de la Dent Blanche
- 3507m.
- Connections:
  - from Ferpècle in Val d'Herens, 5h, F (Biner #304)
  - from Zermatt in Mattertal (4h) or from lift station Furi (3h), (Brandt 3 #4)
Hörnlihütte
- Connections:
  - from lift station Schwarzee (2583m), 2h
Schönbielhütte
- 2694m. Gps: lat: 614.750, long: 094.510 .
- email: bielti.zermatt@gmx.ch , phone (pref): +41 27 967 13 54, (cell): +41 79 447 41 87.
- Connections:
  - from Zermatt via Zmutt (1614m), 4h (Biner #306)
  - from lift station Schwarzee (2583m), 2,5h (Biner #306)
Rifugio de Teodulo
- 3317m.
- Connections:
  - from Trockener Steg, F, 1,25h (SAC 4 #51)
  - from Tresta Grigia (Breuil - Plan Maison - Tresta Trigia lift), F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #52)
Gandegghütte
- 3029m. Gps: lat: 45.96284, long: 7.75343 .
- phone (pref): +41 27 9672112, (cell): , fax: +41 27 9672149 .
- Connections:
  - from Trockener Steg lift station, 0,5h, good path (SAC 4 #2)
  - from Monte Rosahütte, F, 2,5h (SAC 4 #3)
  - to Schwarztor, PD, 5h (SAC 4 #195)
bivacco Rossi e Volante
- 3750m.
- Connections:
  - from Klein Matterhorn, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #57)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #59)
  - from Monte Rosahütte, PD, 4-4,5h (SAC 4 #58)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #213)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 0,25h (SAC 4 #200)
Rifugio Val d' Ayas
- 3394m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m), 3h, F (Biner #402)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #118)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 425m, 1-1,5h (AC East 26a, Moran 27b, SAC 4 212)
  - to Felikjoch
  - to Cabane Quintano Sella
Cabane Quintano Sella
- 3585m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m) via Castor (4228m), 4,5h, PD (Biner #404)
  - from Rifugio Val d' Ayas (3394m) via Castor (4228m), 4h, PD (Biner #404)
  - to Felikjoch, F, 460m, 2h, (SAC 4 #238; AC E 28a; Moran 26d)
Cabane Gnifetti
- 3644m.
- Connections:
  - from Monte Rosahütte, F, 5h
  - from from Lysjoch (4151m), 1h, F (SAC 4 #282; Biner #409)
  - to to Lysjoch (4151m), F, 640m, 2,5h (SAC 4 #282; Biner #409; AC East #30b)
  - from With lift from Alagre to Punta Idren (3250m). From there 400m to hut
  - to Bivacco Felice Giordano, 1,5h (SAC 4 #282)
Rifugio Regina Margherita
- 4554m.
- phone (pref): +39 163 910 39.
- Connections:
  - from Cabane Quintano Sella, AD, 8h (Biner #411)
  - from Cabane Quintano Sella, PD, 4h (Biner #411)
  - from Monta Rosahütte, PD+, 6h (SAC 4 #368)
  - to Lysjoch, 1,5h (Moran 24a)
Rifugio Città di Mantova
- 3440m.
Bivacco Felice Giordano
- 4167m.
- Connections:
  - from Capane Gnifetti, 1,5h (SAC 4 #282)
Monte Rosahütte
- 2795m.
- phone (pref): 41 27 967 21 15.
- Connections:
  - from station Rotenboden (2815m, along Gornergratbahn), 2,5h, F (SAC 4 #1; Biner #406)
  - to Gandegghütte, F, 2,5h (SAC 4 #3)
  - to Schwarztor (3731m), PD+, 4h (SAC 4 #197)); further to bivouac Rossi e Volante or Rifugio val d'Ayas
  - to Zwillingsjoch/Passo de Verra (3845m), AD, 4-6h (SAC 4 #211); further to Rifugio val d'Ayas
  - to Felikjoch (4066m), AD, 5-7h (SAC 4 #235; AC E 28b); further to Cabane Quintano Sella
  - to Lysjoch (4246m), AD(+)/PD, 5h (SAC 4 #280/#281); further to Cabane Gnifetti F, 2,5h (SAC 4 #282) or Bivacco Felice Giordano F.
  - to Rifugio Regina Margherita, PD+, 6h (SAC 4 #368)
  - to bivacco Rossi e Volante, PD, 4-4,5h (SAC 4 #58)
  - to Cabane Gnifetti, F/PD, 1460m, 5h
Täschhütte
- 2701m.
- Connections:
  - from Täschalp (Ottavan, 2214m), 1,5h, (Biner #501)
Mischabeljoch Biwak
- 3851m.
- Connections:
  - from Täschhütte (2701m), 4h, AD- (Biner #506)
Domhütte
- 2940m.
- Connections:
  - from Randa (1407) in Mattertal, 4h (Biner #502)

Breuil

Rifugio de Teodulo
- 3317m.
- Connections:
  - from Trockener Steg, F, 1,25h (SAC 4 #51)
  - from Tresta Grigia (Breuil - Plan Maison - Tresta Trigia lift), F, 0,5h (SAC 4 #52)

Aostatal

Rifugio Val d' Ayas
- 3394m.
- Connections:
  - from station Klein Matterhorn (3820m), 3h, F (Biner #402)
  - to Schwarztor, F, 1,5h (SAC 4 #118)
  - to Zwillingsjoch, F, 425m, 1-1,5h (AC East 26a, Moran 27b, SAC 4 212)
  - to Felikjoch
  - to Cabane Quintano Sella
Bivacco Giorgio e Renzo Novella
- 3706m.
- Connections:
  - from Over Dent d'Hérens (Biner #1070)
Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi
- 2802m.
- Connections:
  - from Breuil (2006m), 2,5h
Rifugio Carrell
- 3829m.
- Connections:
  - from Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi (2802m), 4,5h, PD (Brandt 3 #58)

Saastal

Mischabelhütte
- 3329m.
- Connections:
  - from lift station Hanningalp (from Saas Fee) in Saastal, 3h (Biner #509)
Hotel Längflue
- 2867m.
Hooh Saas
Weissmies huts

CAI sections
SAC Hütteninformationen

Climbing info

General

After Mont Blanc area, Pennine Alps is the second most popular alpine climbing area in the Alps. All types of climbing is available in the area:

Classic mountaineering on high peaks. Great number of high peaks located in Monta Rosa group, many of them climbable in a multi-day trip aided huts located high on the ridge. Breithorn is reputedly the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps. Classic big peaks Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Dent Blanche Lyskamm with normal routes between PD+ and AD.
Technical mountaineering. Classic routes include ice faces on Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, Obergabelhorn, Lenzspitze, Breithorn and Matterhorn. Classic mixed ridges on Matterhorn, Nadelhorn and Täschhorn. Rock routes on Weisshorn, Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn and Signalkuppe.
Alpine rock climbing
Ice fall climbing, seasonal water ice climbing.
Ski mountaineering. Classic Haute Route (multi-day excursion from Chamonix to Zermatt)
Cragging, via ferrata

Most of the climbing routes in Pennine Alps are on snow, as the rock tends to be loose. There are several big mountains, often with big approaches. Saveral of the high peaks have relatively easy glacier ascents (such as Breithorn (4164m), Allalinhorn (4288m) and Alphubel (4206m)). However, there are also several very pointed mountains, such as Matterhorn (4478m), Weisshorn (4506m), Dent Blanche (4356m) and Zinalrothorn (4221m), that are demanding even on the easiest routes. Furthermore, North Face of Breithorn and East Faces of Monte Rosa and Lyskamm have host of the biggest ice routes in the Alps.

In the westernmost Pennine Alps, Grand Combin massif is the best known climbing objective-. Other highlights include Mont Blanc de Cheilon and, Pigne d'Arolla and Mont Collon.

Dent Blanche and Dent d'Hérens both have several good routes but the undisputed king of the central part of Pennine Alps is the rocky pyramid of Matterhorn, quite possibly the most famous mountain of the world. Anyone attempting to normal route (Hörnligrat, AD-) during the summer months has to be prepared to share the mountain with numerous other parties. Despite fixed ropes, it is still one of the hard 4000m peaks with Normal route graded at AD- and featuring 1400m of ascent. Other routes see much less traffic. Other highlights of the area are classically beautiful Weisshorn with its long ridge routes while Obergabelhorn and Zinalrothorn have the best rock quality of the 4000m peaks around Zermatt.

Monta Rosa massif has 15-22 4000m peaks, depending on what is considered an independent peak. Several of the high peaks have relatively easy normal routes, Breithorn being reputably the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps. Also Castor and Pollux are very popular. Traverse of all 4000m peaks is possible in 4-7 days from Klein Matterhorn cable car using the huts on the Italian side. This traverse can be done various ways, those in search of climbing challenges include W-E traverse of Breithorn (AD+) and traverse of Lyskamm (W-E, AD/AD+), both of which are avoidable if easier alternative is wanted. There are also plethora of harder routes, especially classic are North faces of Breithorn and Lyskamm and gigantic East Face of Monte Rosa. There are also hard rock ridge on Nordend, Dufourspitze and Signalkuppe.

In Mischabel group, Strahlhorn, Rimpfischhorn and Alphubel all have easy normal routes, and are well suited for acclimatization. Dom and Täschhorn are big mountains, both of which have important routes. Especially the latter is both long and challenging, even on the easiest routes. Traverse of the Nadelgrat consisting of Lenzspitze in the south, Nadelhorn, Steccknadelhorn, Hochbärghorn and Dirruhorn is a classic (several variations and both directions are feasible). Arguable the best climbing is found between Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn. One interesting and varied way is to start with NE face of Lenzspitse (Dreieselswand (D/D+), then follow Nadelgrat to Dirruhorn and return to Mischabel huts over Windjoch.

The highest and finest mountain of the easternmost part of Pennine Alps is Weissmies (4023m). It, as well as the other high peaks of the group Fletschhorn (3993m) and Lagginghorn (4010m) all have easy glacier climbs with the latter being one of the easiest 4000m peaks in the Alps. North face on Fletschhorn is the most interesting feature of the area.

Grading

Several grading systems are used depending on the type of climbing:

Alpine climbs: International French adjectival system is most common system used to grade alpine climbs. Several climbs have been graded using Bernese Alps G-grade as well.
Rock climbs: For alpine rock routes UIAA grade is used. Standard aid climbing grade is used when appropriate.
Ice & mixed: For moderate and middle grade climbs, most common way is to express the steepness either as maximum or average angle of the slope. For the difficult routes, WI grading is used, usually as two-part variation (including commitment grade). For mixed stuff, some modern routes sometimes use M grades for mixed sections, which certainly tells a lot more about the actual demands met by a climber rather than more commonly used normal rock grade. British guidebooks sometimes use Scottish winter grade.

Grading

Rescue

Switzerlang in general and Pennine Alps in particular have a good rescue system. It does come with considerable cost though, be sure to have valid insurance.

Alpine distress signal

6 x within a minute with regular intervals, give some sort of visual or acoustic signal. Then pause for a minute and repeat the signal until you get an answer. To answer: 3 x within a minute - one minute pause.

Telephone

Switzerland +41
Italy +39

Rescue services

REGA
- phone (pref): +41/1/3831111, (cell): .
Police
- phone (pref): 117.
Air Glacier
- phone (pref): 027/3226464.
Air Zermatt
- phone (pref): 027/9662966.
Heliport Aosta
- phone (pref): +39/165/44306.

Seasons and weather

References

Authoritative guide to the area is Swiss Alpine Club's Clubführer, available in six volumes both in German and French. Best maps are Swiss Landeskarte maps available in 1:25 000.

Western Pennine Alps (Grand Combin)

Swiss Landeskarte: 1325 (Sembrancher).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1326 (Rosablanche).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1345 (Orsières).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1346 (Chanrion).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1347 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1365 (Gd-St-Bernard).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1366 (Mont Vélan).
Swiss Landeskarte: 5003 (Mont Blanc-Grand Combin).

Col Collon - Theodulpass

Swiss Landeskarte: 1307 (Vissoei).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1308 (St.Niklaus).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1327 (Evolène).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1328 (Randa).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1347 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 5006 (Matterhorn-Mischabel).

Theodulpass - Monte Moro (Monte Rosa)

Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 2115 (Zermatt - Gornergrat).
Swiss Landeskarte: 284 (Gressoney), 1:50 000.
Swiss Landeskarte: 294 (Matterhorn-Mischabel), 1:50 000.

Mischabel group

Swiss Landeskarte: 1308 (St.Niklaus).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1309 (Simplon).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1328 (Randa).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1329 (Saas).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1349 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 274 (Visp), 1:50 000.
Swiss Landeskarte: 284 (Mischabel), 1:50 000.

Weissmies group

Swiss Landeskarte: 1308 (St.Niklaus).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1309 (Simplon).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1328 (Randa).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1329 (Saas).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1348 (Zermatt).
Swiss Landeskarte: 1349 (Matterhorn).
Swiss Landeskarte: 5006 (Matterhorn-Mischabel).
Swiss Landeskarte: 274 (Visp), 1:50 000.
Swiss Landeskarte: 284 (Mischabel), 1:50 000.

Overview map with Mischabel, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn - Weisshorn groups

Biner Hermann: Hochtouren im Wallis - Auswahlführer. SAC Verlag, 2002.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 1 - vom Trient zum Gr. St. Bernhardt. SAC Verlag, 1999.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 2 - vom Gr. St. Bernhardt zum Theodulspass. SAC Verlag, 1999.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 3 - vom col Collon zum Theodulpass. SAC Verlag, 1993.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 4 - vom Theodulpass zum Monte Moro. SAC Verlag, 1993.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 5 - vom Strahlhorn zum Simplon. SAC Verlag, 1993.
Brandt Maurice: Clubführer Walliser Alpen 6 - vom Simplon zum Nufenenpass (Gonerli). SAC Verlag, 1994.
Swindin Les & Fleming Peter: Valais Alps East - Selected Climbs. Alpine Club, 1999. Isbn: 090052362X.
Swindin Les & Fleming Peter: Valais Alps West - Selected Climbs. Alpine Club, 1998. Isbn: 0900523611.
Vauchere Michel: Walliser Alpen - die 100 schönsten Touren, 2 Auflag edition. Bruckmann Verlag, 1990.
Waeber M: Gebietsführer Walliser Alpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1999.

Mischabel group: Area page at SummitPost.
Monte Rosa group: Area page at SummitPost.
Mountaineering in Valais: general information about the area and bases, links and some route descriptions. By Andy Clifton.
Pennine Alps: Area page at SummitPost.
Pennine Alps: Range page at Peakware.
Valais Alps - 1. Arolla: Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.
Valais Alps - 2. Zermatt: Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.
Valais Alps - 3. Saas Valley: Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.
Weissmies group: Area page at SummitPost.

Valleys

The absolute center of mountaineering activities on these many summits is the Mattertal, with well-known villages like Randa, Täsch and Zermatt. From this valley no less than 31 4000-metre peaks can be reached, among these Matterhorn 4478m, peaks of Monte Rosa Massif (Dufourspitze 4634m) and peaks of Mischabel Group (Dom 4545m). Another important valley is Saastal, which have many mountains in common with Mattertal plus a few of its own. Thirteen 4000-metre peaks can be reached from this valley, among these Nadelhorn 4327m and Weissmies 4023m. Also worth mentioning is Val de Zinal in Anniviers, a more quiet valley with access to one of the highest mountains in the Alps: the beautiful Weisshorn 4505m, as well as four more 4000-metre peaks. West of the Zermatt valley, the mountains are mainly lower and more remote, although at the chain's western extremity, the icy massif of Grand Combin rises to 4314m.

From north

Rhône valley

Main valley on the Swiss side, running more or less in West to East direction. Easily accessible either with car or by train from Geneva (nearest international airport) and Martigny. Main cities Sion, Brig and Visp. Rhône valley is used to access numerous side valleys located closer to the climbs.

Bourg St.Pierre is located on the road through Gd. St. Bernard. It is located immediately to the west of Grand Comin and therefore suitable base for climbs from the west and south. Cabane de Valsorey and bivouac B. Musso are the most conveniently located bases for climbing Grand Combing starting from Bourg St. Pierre.

Access to north and east side climbs on Grand Combin is most convenient from Fionnay (1490m). From there hike to Cabane de Panossière (2669m) takes 4h. Cabane de Chanrion (2462m) located further up the valley, close to Mt. Avril, Mt. Gelé and La Ruinette.

Grand Combin

Val d'Hérens

Easily accessed from Sion in main Rhône valley. Arolla located at the end of the valley is the center for climbing activity. From there several huts can be reached to access the climbs.

The the west of Arolla lie Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla and to the southwest chain Le Pleneur - La Luette - Mont Blanc de Cheilon and Pigne d'Arolla. Also climbs on Mont Gelé - Aouille Tseugue - La Singla -l'Evêque - Mont Collon can be reached from Arolla. Climbs on these parts are most readily accessed from Cabane des Dix (2928), Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (2810m), Cabane des Vignettes (3158m) or Cabane de Bertol (3311m), all approached from Arolla.

To the east of Arolla lie Monte Brule - Bouquetins - Aiguille de la Tsa - Dent de Perroc - Dents the Veisivi -chain. Climbs on these chains are mostly reached from Cabane de Bertol (3311m), Cabane de la Tsa (2607m) or Refuge des Bouquetins (2980m).

Side valley branching to the east from Les Haudères with the village Ferpècle is starting points eastern side of Monte Brule - Bouquetins - Aiguille de la Tsa - Dent de Perroc - Dents the Veisivi -chain. The chain has mainly good rock climbs on excellent rock. North side on Monte Brulee is exception with ice routes between AD and TD. However, Grand Cornier, Dent Blanche and Téte Blanche located to the east of the valley are likely the best known climbing objectives from the valley. Cabane de la Dent Blanche is the most important hut reached from Ferpècle.

Val d'Hérens

Val d'Anniviers

Also worth mentioning is Val de Zinal in Anniviers, a more quiet valley with access to one of the highest mountains in the Alps: the beautiful Weisshorn 4505m, as well as four more 4000-metre peaks.

Val d'Anniviers: Area page at SummitPost.

Turtmanntal

Located between Val d'Anniviers in West and Mattertal in east. Access from Turtmann in Rhone valley, lift to 1340, walking from there to Turtmannhütte, located ate the end of the valley. From there to Cabane de Tracuit.?

Weisshorn, north side

Mattertal

The absolute center of mountaineering activities on these many summits is the Mattertal, with well-known villages Randa, Täsch and Zermatt. From this valley no less than 31 4000-meter peaks can be reached, among these Matterhorn 4478m, peaks of Monte Rosa Massif (Dufourspitze 4634m) and peaks of Mischabel Group (Dom 4545m).

Obergabelhorn - Zinalrothorn - Weisshorn - Bishorn chain has numerous worthwhile climbs. reaching those is taxing though, as there are no lifts and the actual climbs are large in scale as well. Normal route of Bishorn is the only easy route in the chain. Classically beautiful Weisshorn has several long ridge routes while Obergabelhorn and Zinalrothorn have the best rock quality of the 4000m peaks around Zermatt. North faces of Bishorn and Obergabeljhorn are gems for those looking for steep alpine ice.

Climbs in Téte Blanche - Dent d'Hérens - Matterhorn chain can be reached from Hörnli and Schönbiel huts, both of which are reached from middle station of Klein Matterhorn lift. Dent Blanche and Dent d'Hérens both have several good routes but the undisputed king of the central part of Pennine Alps is the rocky pyramid of Matterhorn, quite possibly the most famous mountain of the world. Anyone attempting to normal route (Hörnligrat, AD-) during the summer months has to be prepared to share the mountain with numerous other parties. Despite fixed ropes, it is still one of the hard 4000m peaks with Normal route graded at AD- and featuring 1400m of ascent. Other routes see much less traffic.

Mattertal is used to reach the climbs on the west side of Mischabel group. There are no lifts, so reaching Täschhütte (2701m), Domhütte (2940m) or Mischabeljoch-biwak (3851m) already requires considerable ascent. Main climbing objectives are Täschhoirn and Dom, both requiring ascent of more than 1500m along the easiest routes. Ascent from Mattertal to Täschhütte and further to Mischabeljoch-biwak, then doing the traverse from Täscchorn to Dom is considered classic.

Gornergrat-Monte Rosa Bahn
Randa
Zermatt
Zermatt Tourist Office

Saastal

Another important valley is Saastal, which have many mountains in common with Mattertal plus a few of its own. Thirteen 4000-metre peaks can be reached from this valley, among these Nadelhorn 4327m and Weissmies 4023m.

Villages Saas fee, Saas Grund, Saas Balen and Saas Allmagel all are skiing resorts, thus some ski lifts can be used to reach the climbs.

Highest and arguably the most impressive mountains that can be climbed from Saastal are the high peaks of Mischabel group. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, Mischabelhütte (3329m), Längflue (2867m) and Mischabeljoch-Biwak (3851m) are the only huts available form reaching the climbs on Mischbel chain.

Strahlhorn, Rimpfischhorn and Alphubel all have easy normal routes, and are well suited for acclimatization. saastal can be used to gain access to two impressive and classic ridge traverses, Täschhorn - Dom and Nadelgrat, the latter consisting of Lenzspitze in the south, Nadelhorn, Steccknadelhorn, Hochbärghorn and Dirruhorn (several variations and both directions are feasible, arguably the best climbing is found between Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn). One interesting and varied way is to start with NE face of Lenzspitse (Dreieselswand (D/D+), then follow Nadelgrat to Dirruhorn and return to Mischabel huts over Windjoch.

To reach climbs on Weissmies group, Hooh Saas and Weissmies huts are the most common hut bases. The highest and finest mountain of the easternmost part of Pennine Alps is Weissmies (4023m). It, as well as the other high peaks of the group Fletschhorn (3993m) and Lagginghorn (4010m) all have easy glacier climbs with the latter being one of the easiest 4000m peaks in the Alps. North face on Fletschhorn is the most interesting feature of the area.

Mischabelhütte
Hotel Längflue
Hooh Saas
Weissmies huts

Saas Fee

Saas Fee

Simplon

Weissmies group

Simplon

From south

Aosta valley

Main Aosta-valley gives access to numerous side valley, that can be used to access climbs in Pennine Alps. Main convenient centeres to access climbs from Aostatal are Breuil-Cervinia,Gressoney Saint Jean and Alagna Valsesia, all of which are accessed from main Aosta valley. Closest major cities are Chatillon (27km, train), Turin (150km, airport) and Milan.

Breuil-Cervinia (2006m) and Valtournenche are located along the road towards north from the main Aosta valley. Breuil-Cervinia is located not too far away from Matterhorn on the Italian side. There are several ski-lifts and a few huts available from Breuil-Cervinia, the most important of which being Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi (2802m) and Rifugio Carrell (3829m), both of which are used to climb Matterhorn along the Liongrat, by far the best known climb from Breuil-Cervinia.

Further to the east lie valle d'Ayas with Champoluc (1575m), valle Gressoney with Gressoney Saint Jean (1624m) and Valsesia with Alagna. These three valley form skiing area Monterosa ski with numerous lifts which can aid in reaching huts located on the Italian side of Monta Rosa: val d'Ayas (3425), Quintano Sella (3585), Gnifetti hut (3611m), Rifugio Mantova (3498) and rifugio Regina Margherita.

Alagna Valsesia - Monte Rosa
Breuil-Cervinia Valtournenche
Gressoney Saint Jean
Monterosa ski

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