Mont Blanc Massif - Mountains
Aiguilles Rouges
Aiguilles Rouges Located to the other side of Chamonix valley. It is very easily accessible with Brevent (Chamonix) and Flegere - Index (Le Praz) ski lifts which makes many multi-pitch rock climbs into comfortable day trips from Chamonix. Should there be need for accommodation, Lac Blanc hut is well situated, less than an hours hike from Index lift station. Furthermore, the area has splendid panorama towards Argentiere glacier, especially Aiguille Chardonnet, Les Drus and Aiguille Verte are well visible. There are also hiking paths, especially Lac Blanc and Lac Noir are popular.
Because of its lower height (2400-2800m) and quick access, area is well suitable for taking advantage of short periods of good weather. The area has a number of multi-pitch rock climbs, usually between 150m and 400m in length. Some of the routes are bolted. Most of the popular climbs are located in the eastern part of the group. Most popular route of the area is probably the normal route of Aiguille l'Index (AD, IV). It can be very crowded though. Longer and much quieter alternatives are Chapelle de la Gliere South Ridge (D, IV+), Aiguille Perseverance South Ridge (AD, IV+) and Voie des Dalles on Aiguille Pouce (TD-, VI-).
Located in the western part of the group. Access with Brevent ski lift.
- Aiguille de la Gliere (2836m)
- Chapelle de la Gliere (2669m)
- l'Index lift station
Not very important peak per se, but extremely popular due to its proximity to Index telepherique station.
- Index telepherique station
- Index telepherique station
Located to the east of Aiguilles des Chamois.
North of Mont Dolent
Chardonnet - Pointe de Bron
Chain towards north from Aiguille du Chardonnet. Separates the northernmost part of the Mont Blanc area to Le Tour (west) and Plateau du Trient (east) glaciers.
Located between Aiguille Forbes and Grande Fourche.Direct route between Glacier du Tour (Refugio Albert I) and Glacíer du Saleina (Cabane du Saleina), but hardly shorter than via Col du Tour and Fenêtre de Saleina. Starting point of classic Forbes are on Aiguille du Chardonnet.
- Refugio Albert I
- Cabane du Saleina
Pass between Glacier du Tour and Plateau du Trident, separating Between Aiguille Purtscheller and Tête Blanche.
- Refugio Albert I
- Plateau du Trient
- Col Superior du Tour
There are several and moderate routes. French side routes are up to 500m high.
- Aiguille du Tour (3542m)
- Aiguille du Tour (3544m)
- Refugio Albert I
- Cabane du Trient (3170m)
Laroche & Lelong #4; Eberlein #1551, #1552; Biner #112
AC vol. 2 #275; Eberlein #1555; Laroche & Lelong #13; Damilano & Perroux #1a
Petite Fourche - Aiguilles Dorees - Le Portalet
Chain running east from Petite Fourche separating Plateau du Trient in north and Glacier de Saleina in South. Best known climbing objectives are Aiguilles Dorees and Le Portalet.
Important pass connecting Plateau du Trient and Glacier du Saleina. Located between Aiguille de la Fenêtre and Petite Fourche
- Cabane du Trient
- Cabane du Saleina
Prominent rock peak in the middle of Aiguilles Dorées
- Cabane du Trient
- Cabane du Trient
Eberlein #1588; Laroche & Lelong #40
- Cabane d'Orny
AC vol. 2 #297; Eberlein #1602; Laroche & Lelong #30
Bec de Lachat - Aiguille Chardonnet
Chain leading from Argentière to Aiguille Chardonnet, on the north border of Argentière glacier separting it from the Le Tour glaciers. Forms the NW ridge of Aiguille du Chardonnet.
- Aiguille Chardonnet. Mountain page at camptocamp.org.
- Aiguille Chardonnet. Mountain page. At SummitPost.
- Refugio Albert I, From the hut in eastern them south-eastern direction. Below ascend slope to Col Supérior de Tour further to the south ascending and a bit on the western side around the rock island 3238m. Afterwards horizontal at altitude of ca. 3220m further in direction of a wide couloir with seracs, that is contained between Aiguille Forbes and rock spur (2h).
- Cabane du Trient (3170m), over Col du Tour (1,5h)
- Cabane du Saleina, over Fenêtre du Tour (3,5h)
A traverse of the Chardonnet from east to west via the Forbes Arête. A glacier approach; steep snow and ice to the ridge; snaking and winding over and around towers of solid granite followed by a technical descent via North Flank and West Ridge.
Climb the glacier arm (crevasses, may be endangered by seracs) to a plateau below Fenêtre Sep du Tour. Slant to the the right (west) below a small group of seracs to reach an ice ridge and follow this to s steep bulge ("Bosse", 50° for about 100m, max 53°). Continue over the following less-steep slope to the East Ridge just above the high gerdame at ca. 3700m. Climb over the first gendarme by a chimney crack (III), later follow the mixed ridge (beware of cornices). Descend a short firn slope on the south of the last gendarme and climb the summit block in easy mixed terrain (chimney). The summit is reached shortly after the exit of Migot Spur. (3-4h, 5-6h from the Hut).Eberlein #1522; AC vol. 2 #240; Laroche & Lelong #42; Rebuffat #28; Biner #124; Damilano & Perroux #3a
- Refugio Albert I, Approach like North Flank and West Ridge: From refugio ascend to the east and turn the P. 2833 (Signal Reilly) on the left. Above the P 2833 turn South-East towards Fenêtre du Tour. Below rock island (P 3228) towards Col A. Reilly to the bergschrund (2h). If the glacier has a generous snow cover, it is also possible to cross the glacier directly (1,5h).
- Cabane du Trient (3170m), over Col du Tour (1,5h)
- Cabane du Saleina, over Fenêtre du Tour (3,5h)
Slightly harder than the Forbes Arête, and is a good introduction to the longer mixed routes of the range. Mostly ice with some 100m of mixed ground. Considered by many to be the finest mixed climb of its grade in the Mont Blanc area. Spur is gained from the right avoiding the bottom part. Direct start (Migot Spr integral) involves ore mixed ground and is somewhat more difficult.
From the approach of Forbes Arete traverse right to the foot of the buttres (2h). Climb up the snow slopes on the right side of the spur (some stonefall danger) until easy mixed ground leads to the crest of the ridge. Climb the steepening snow ridge followed by icy rocks and short couloirs (good rock belays possible throughout the mixed part). Bypass the big serac barrier (may sometimes be dangerous) by slanting right up snow-covered slabs to an easy angled snow ridge. Continue to the final slope and climb it (100-150m 50°) to the summit. 450m, 6h from the hut.Eberlein #1525; AC vol. 2 #242; Laroche & Lelong #56; Rebuffat #43; Biner #125; Damilano & Perroux #3f
- Aiguille du Chardonnet : Eperon Migot. Trip report in French, but with lots of pictures.
Ice couloir between Migot (North) and NW spurs. Cold and snowy conditions are necessary, otherwise central part of the route gives steep and problematical mixed climbing.
Cross the rimaye wherever possible and reach the bottom of the narrow couloir via 50º slope. Climb up for two steep pitches and sustained pitches (Scottish 4, 65º/70º with max. 80º). Continue up 55º, then 50º slope to the summit.AC vol. 2 #243; Damilano & Perroux #3g
- Couloir Norte (Aureille-Feutren). Excellent route photo. In Spanish.
- Refugio Albert I, Approach like North Flank and West Ridge: From refugio ascend to the east and turn the P. 2833 (Signal Reilly) on the left. Above the P 2833 turn South-East towards Fenêtre du Tour. Below rock island (P 3228) towards Col A. Reilly to the bergschrund (2h). If the glacier has a generous snow cover, it is also possible to cross the glacier directly (1,5h).
- Cabane du Trient (3170m), over Col du Tour (1,5h)
- Cabane du Saleina, over Fenêtre du Tour (3,5h)
Lefttmost and the longest of the ice couloirs on NW side. Runs parallel to NW Ridge.
Climb Glacier de l'Épaule to the north on either side of the rock island 3214m and at 3370 to the bergscrund of the couloir on the left (3h from the hut). Cross the bergschrund and ascent the couloir. After the junction of Charlet-Bettembourg couloir through steep mixed terrain passing the junction of Gabarrou couloir continue to the top of of the couloir.Laroche & Lelong #56; Damilano & Perroux #3j
Central one of the three ice couloirs.
Climb Glacier de l'Épaule to the north on either side of the rock island 3214m and at 3370 to the bergscrund of the couloir on the left (3h from the hut). Gabarrou couloir is really narrow and hard to notice between Escarra and Charlet-Bettembourg couloirs. Cross the bergschrund and ascent the wide couloir. After the junction of Charlet-Bettembourg couloir through steep mixed terrain to the foot of Gabarrou couloir. Climb this in its middle (150m, 60-80°). After the exit as directly as possible to the mixed ridge (mainly rock, 4b) and further to ice slope that ends in a couloir. A short ridge leads to the summit (4h from bergschrund). It is also possible to get to the summit along a traversing ramp that begins at the exit of the couloir (50-55°).AC vol. 2 #246; Laroche & Lelong #56; Damilano & Perroux #3i
Right-hand ice couloir on NW face. Slants to the right from the same initial couloir as Gabarrou couloir and voie Escarra. The couloir is steep (Scottish 4) widening to an exit on easier snow slopes. Slant to the left on mixed ground fro 200m to the summit.
Aiguille du Chardonnet North Flank and West RidgeAC vol. 2 #247; Laroche & Lelong #56; Damilano & Perroux #3k
Mixed (though mostly ice). Glacier de l'Épaule - Col Superior Adams Reilly - West Ridge. Begschrunds not infrequently difficult to pass. Most common descent route. Often used as descent route after ascent of Forbes arete or Migot Spur.
Climb on the left side of Point 3214 up the small and heavily crevassed glacier de l'Epaule in the general direction of Aiguille Adams Reilly 3506 that rises between col A. Reilly and col sup. A Reilly. Across steep firn slope and partially difficult bergschrunds to the Col sup. A Reilly. From there along the ridge to the shoulder of P 3587 (1-2h). The steep ridge start to the left of this point. Over the steep firn slope to the rocks that are turned on the left and climb over rock bands close to narrow ice couloir. As soon as the terrain gets less steep traverse over loose rock and firn to the pre-summit. Over the airy rocks (sometimes snow) to the summit (2h from the shoulder).Eberlein #1521; AC vol. 2 #239 (descent); Biner #123; Damilano & Perroux #3l
Between Aiguille du Chardonnet and Aiguille d'Argentiére, starting point of SE ridge of Aiguille du Chardonnet. Often used pass between Glacier de Argentiére and Glacier du Saleina. It is possible to continue to Plateau du Trien via Fenêtre de Saleina or to Glacier du Tour via Fenêtre du Tour.
- Rifugio d'Argentière
- Cabane du Saleina
Argentiére - Dolent
Continuation of Bec de Lachat - Aiguille Chardonnet chain on the north bank on Argentière glacier, separating it from Plateau du Trient.
Beatiful and prominent peak, easy to recognise from Argentiere side. There are currently more than 50 routes, with Glacier du Milieu (normal route), North face and Jardin Ridge being classics.
| 1864-07-15 | First ascent | A Reilly and E Whymper with H Charlet, M Croz and M Payot |
| 1910-01-09 | First winter ascent | M Cottier with M Crettez |
- Rifugio d'Argentière, Above the hut to the east following water pipe and later along morane to north-east to the Glacier des Améthystes (45min). Further along its (orographic) right, pass the foot of Minarte to reach the foot of Y Couloir at 3300m (1,5h from the hut).
ice/firn Recommended only in good conditions during early summer. Early start necessary (couloir should be started an hour before sunrise at the latest), stonefall danger.
The main difficulty is usually the passing of Bergschrund. Pass the bergschrund on the right if its not open. In another case reach the rocks on the right below the bergschrund and climb a steep chimney and ascending to the left to the rand of the couloir above the bergschrund. Cross the lawine path and climb on its left side. Pass the left hand of the Y and climb further in the middle of the right hand of the couloir up to the col on the left of Flèche Rousse. Climb the slope along the ridge to the summit (2-3h from the Bergschrund). Rifugio d'ArgentièreEberlein #1483; AC vol. 2 #218; Laroche & Lelong #33
- Cabane du Trient
Eberlein #1475; AC vol. 2 #209; Rebuffat #65; Biner #126.2; Damilano & Perroux #4d
Eberlein #1476; AC vol. 2 #211; Damilano & Perroux #4h
- Rifugio d'Argentière
Eberlein #1471; AC vol. 2 #206; Rebuffat #19; Biner #126; Damilano & Perroux #4a
Eberlein #1472; AC vol. 2 #208; Damilano & Perroux #4b
Eberlein #1485; AC vol. 2 #220; Biner #127
Eberlein #1472, #1471; AC vol. 2 #208, #206; Damilano & Perroux #4b, #4a; Rebuffat #19; Biner #126; Laroche & Lelong #20
- Cabane de Saleina
Eberlein #1478; AC vol. 2 #214 & #215; Damilano & Perroux #4j
Eberlein #1480; AC vol. 2 #217
Possible pass from Cabane du Saleina to Rifugio d'Argentière. Takes more time than the route via Col du Chardonnet.
- Glacier d'Argentière
- Cabane du Saleina
- Rifugio d'Argentière
Eberlein #1441, #1442; Laroche & Lelong #18; Biner #132, #130
Pass from Argentiere glacier to Cabane de l'A Neuve
- Glacier d'Argentière
- Glacier de l'A Neuve
2km long ridge between Col d'Argentière and Brèche de l'Amône. Climbs are generally more difficult from the Swiss side.
One of the peaks in Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent.
Between Aiguille de l'Amône and Mont Dolent
Aiguille de la Neuve - Clochers de Planereuse
Grande Darrey - Petites des Essettes
Mont Dolent - Col des Hirondelles
Dolent - Triolet
Located at the head of Argentére glacier separating it from Mont Dolent glacier. There are several (winter) ice routes, many of the most famous ones not finishing on any summit.
Located on the border between France (West), Switzerland (NE) and Italy (SE). Four ridges of which East and North ridges are most interesting for climbers.
- Refuge d'Argentière
AC vol. 2 #35; Eberlein #1393; Rebuffat #45
AC vol. 2 #33; Eberlein #1396; Damilano & Perroux #8h
- Bivacco Fiorio
AC vol. 2 #32; Eberlein #1391; Biner #133; Damilano & Perroux #8i
- Mont Dolent 1998. Pictures from the ascent of Mont Dolent, July 1998 (Normal Italian Route via Rif. Fiorio - South Face and South-East ridge) by Romain Wacziarg.
- La-Maye-du-Dolent-Bivouac
AC vol. 2 #38; Eberlein #1395; Laroche & Lelong #50; Biner #134
- Rifugio d'Argentière
- Rifugio d'Argentière
AC vol. 2 #11; Eberlein #1076; Rebuffat #88; Damilano & Perroux #15a
AC vol. 2 #12; Eberlein #1077; Damilano & Perroux #15b
- Triolet (Dalmazzi) Hut
AC vol. 2 #15; Eberlein #1072
- Refuge de Couvercle
AC vol. 2 #9; Eberlein #1071
Mont Dolent - Monte Grepillon
Grand Montets - Aiguille Triolet
Long ridge located to the south of Argentière glacier, separating it from Talèfre glacier. Central part of the ridge consists of impressive wall of north faces of Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes. South side from glacier de Charpoua and glacier de Talefre is far less intimidating.
- Rifugio d'Argentière,Grands Montets Lift
Eberlein #1230; AC vol. 2 #117; Damilano & Perroux #31c
Eberlein #1230; AC vol. 2 #116; Damilano & Perroux #31d
- Rifugio d'Argentière,Grands Montets Lift
Eberlein #1230; Laroche & Lelong #38; AC vol. 2 #119; Damilano & Perroux #31a
- Couloir Chevalier. route description at AlpenFührer.
- Le Couloir Chevalier. Photo report.
Very important peak, highest mountain in the northern part of Mont Blanc group. Several routes from all sides, all long and challenging. Four major ridges: Moine ridge (SW ridge) Jardin ridge (East ridge) - col de la Grande Rocheuse - Grande Rocheuse - col Armand Charlet - Aiguille Jardin Sans nom ridge (West ridge) - Pointe Croux - Aiguille Sans Nom (3982m) - Brèche Sans Nom (3725m) Grands Montets Ridge (NW ridge) - col du Nant Blanc (3776m) - col des Grands Montets (3233m) Major faces Nant Blanc face (Nant Blanc glacier) - between Grands Montets and Sans Nom ridges Charpoua face (Charpoua glacier) - between Sans Nom and Moine ridges South face (Talefre glacier) - between Moine and Jardin ridges North face (Argentiere glacier) - between Grands Montets and Jardin ridges
- Aiguille Sans Nom
- Pointe Croux (4023m)
- Pointe Eveline (4026m)
- Aiguille Verte (4122m)
- col de la Grande Rocheuse (4050m)
- Grande Rocheuse (4102m)
- col Armand Charlet (3998m)
- Aiguille Jardin (4035m)
| 1865-06-29 | First ascent | E.Whymper, A.Almer & F.Biner |
| 1903-03-15 | First winter ascent | G.Hasler & C.Jossi via Whymper Couloir |
- Refugio d'Argentière, From refugio cross the glacier d'Argentiere in West-South-West. Climb between the rocks of P. 2866 and the foot of North-East Ridge of Grande Rocheuse and continue cross Glacier des Rognon to the bergschrund of the couloir (2h, beware serac falls from Cordier Couloir while crossing the glacier).
- Grands Montets (bivouac)
Rebuffat #74; AC vol. 2 #96; Eberlein #1200; Moran #47h
Eberlein #1212; AC vol. 2 #97; Damilano & Perroux #27d
Eberlein #1218; AC vol. 2 #102; Rebuffat #79; Damilano & Perroux #27a; Moran #47i
Damilano & Perroux #24a; Eberlein #1172
- From Grands Montets lift station via Nant Blanc glacier (possibly bivouac). Bergshrund at 3200m.
Eberlein #1190; AC vol. 2 #95; Damilano & Perroux #27h
- Refuge de la Charpoua via Glacier Charpoua
AC vol. 2 #93; Eberlein #1185; Moran #47g
AC vol. 2 #94; Eberlein #1187; Rebuffat #77; Moran #47f
- Refuge de Couvercle Take track railway from Chamonix up to Montenvers (1876 m). From the station descent southwards and finally use ladders over slabs to reach the Mer de Glace. Take great care when crossing broad melt water gullies. Ascent first on the western edge, then move to the middle for ca. 3 km. At the junction with the Leschaux Glacier, turn left and work across to the north bank. After traversing the debris-covered ice sections and moraines (coloured metal barrels as markers), gain iron ladders that ascent the cliffs on the left (north). Climb these over a steep polished rocks, then follow the path high above the ice fall of the Glacier de Taléfre, over grass and moraine to the Couvercle Hut, placed at the foot on the historic bivouac site.
Best when the very dry. Objectively safer than Whymper Couloir.
Turn left at 3350 m, before reaching the Aiguille Verte, and cross the bergschrund below a conspicious, right-slanting, snow couloir at the back of a bay, right of the prominent rock pinnacle of the Cardinal. From the foot of the couloir move up ledges, heading up for about 200 m to the notch between Cardinal and Aiguille Verte (3600 m). On the ridge turn back in the direction of the Aiguille Verte. First keeping right, zig-zag up ledges and go up to the small notch of an adjacent ridge (by five-metre gendarme at the upper end of the couloir mentioned earlier). Continue up the adjacent ridge and after the ascend obloquely right over slabs and snow patches until one can see into the Whymper Couloir. Now, climb directly back to the ridge, first up a chimney gully then zig-zagging over slabs until one reaches the ridge by a less conspicious gendarme. Go up on the right side (east) of the ridge, turning a final tower on the east, to the summit.Eberlein #1182; AC vol. 2 #92; Goedeke #pp178; Damilano & Perroux #27y; Moran #47c
Large scale snow and ice route that is best climbed during early summer, when climbers profit greatly from generous snow cover. When this is not present, ice climbing may be very hard at bergschrund (on descent this is often problematic involving a big jump or awkward abseiling). The Whymper Couloir faces south and thus warms up correspondingly quickly, so an very early start and rapid completion of the route before snow turns rotten and rock starts to fall is essential. When ice is bare, stone fall risk increases.
From the hut take path over the moraines to the western edge of the Glacier de Taléfre. Climb the glacier in a wide arc under the rock walls of the Aiguille du Moine and the connecting pinnacle ridge to the foot of the Aiguille Verte (2 h). Beware of the crevasses, especially on the upper part of the glacier. Ascend to the uppermost part of the glacier. The couloir descents from the notch on the ridge between the Aiguille Verte and Grande Rocheuse. Cross the bergschrund on the right under the rocks of the Grande Rocheuse and first of all ascend the small parallel couloir. Then move left on to a rocky ridge and further above traverse to a side branch of the main couloir. Cross this too and then on the right (eastern) side of the main couloir ascend a rock rib. Where this runs out, move obliquely to the left and go directly up to the saddle in front of the Grande Rocheuse or continue obliquely left over mixed groud to the East Ridge which leads up (watch out for cornices) to the summit.Eberlein #1181; AC vol. 2 #90; Rebuffat #41; Goedeke #pp178; Damilano & Perroux #27x; Moran #47a
- Aiguille Verte durch das Whympercouloir (4122m). by Hartmut Bielefeldt. In German.
Stone-fall danger only on the lower section of the route
Begin as for the Whymper Couloir as far as the upper end of the rock rib left of the initial couloir. Now cross the adjacent couloir on the right and go straight up the rocks of the pillar to a gendarme (3820 m). Pass this on the left (west) and 150 m higher, turn a second gendarme on the right and follow the ridge of the pillar to the steep summit wall. Keeping left at first, ascend chimneys and then move more to the right and go up to reach the summit ridge about 50 m east of the main summit.AC vol. 2 #91; Goedeke #pp183; Moran #47b
Moran #47e; Eberlein #1171
Moran #47d
- Refugio d'Argentière
Eberlein #1151; AC vol. 2 #71; Rebuffat #82; Damilano & Perroux #22d
- A weekend in the Alps. by John Hawkins.
Eberlein #1141; AC vol. 2 #75; Rebuffat #99; Damilano & Perroux #22g
Eberlein #1142; AC vol. 2 #76; Damilano & Perroux #22k
- Refugio de Couvercle
AC vol. 2 #65; Eberlein #1131; Goedeke #pp185
- Les Droites (4000 m) Normalweg. Bericht 11.-12. August 2001 by Hartmut Bielefeldt. In German.
Eberlein #1134
Popular peak. NE slope is moderate classic while north face is one of the most famous north faces in Mont Blanc area. Swiss route is likely the most popular big ice route in the area.
- Refugio de Couvercle
AC vol. 2 #54; Rebuffat #38; Laroche & Lelong #25; Eberlein #1101, #1119
AC vol. 2 #55
- Refugio d'Argentière Descend from Rerugio d'Argentière to the Glacier d'Argentière. Cross the glacier to reach the East-North-East Spur (2940m) that comes down from Aiguille Chevanier (little over 1 h).
AC vol. 2 #59; Damilano & Perroux #20g
Eberlein #1106; AC vol. 2 #60; Rebuffat #94; Damilano & Perroux #20h
One of the most popular routes on Argentière side. Early start essential as sun hits the face in the morning.
Keeping to the right of the spur, cross the bergschrund, which can sometimes be the key point of the route. Above it, climb uniformly 45° steep firn face (in the upper part up to 50°) to the ridge and follow it to the summit. From time to time the initial slope has developed difficult serac barriers and it has then been necessary to climb East-North-East buttress on the left. 4-7h from the Hut, total of 1100m ascent.Eberlein #1111; AC vol. 2 #56; Rebuffat #29; Damilano & Perroux #20c
AC vol. 2 #57; Damilano & Perroux #20d
Between Aiguille Ravanel and Aiguille Triolet.
Les Drus
Short chain branching off the Grand Montets - Aiguille Triolet chain close to its end, not far away from Argentière city. Lies between Glacier du Nant Blanc (NW) and Glacier de la Charpoua (E).
There are several classic climbs, especially on the West face of Petit Dru and on the north face of Les Drus. However, some of the classic routes have been destroyed by rock fall.
- Nant Blanc glacier
AC vol. 2 #145; Eberlein #1300; Damilano & Perroux #30a
- Charpoua Hut
AC vol. 2 #131; Eberlein #1252
AC vol. 2 #133; Eberlein #1270; Rebuffat #92
- With Bernd on the Bonatti. Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
AC vol. 2 #138; Eberlein #1287; Rebuffat #98
- With Bernd on the Bonatti. Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
AC vol. 2 #136; Eberlein #1284
- With Bernd on the Bonatti. Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
- Nant Blanc glacier
Aiguille Moine - Aiguille Verte
Short chain branching off the Grand Montets - Aiguille Triolet ridge between Glacier de la Charpoua (west) and Talèfre Glacier (east). Most important climb on the ridge is Moine Ridge of Aiguille Verte.
Aiguille Triolet - Rouges de Triolet
Aiguille Triolet - Grandes Jorasses
Starting point of classic Hirondelles ridge.
Talèfre - Pierre á Berge
Aiguille de Leschaux - Monte Gruetta
Col des Hirondelles - Col du Geant
Grandes Jorasses - Dent du Géant
Contains famous peaks Grandes Jorasses, Aiguille Rochefort and Dent du Geant. Traverse of the whole chain is a major two-day outing.
- Point Walker (East Summit) (4208m)
- Point Whymper (West Summit) (4184m)
- Point Croz (4110m)
- Pointe Marguerita (4066m)
- Pointe Hélène (4045m)
- Pointe Young (3996m)
| 1865-06-24 | First ascent | Point Whymper: Edward Whymper, M. Croz, C. Almer & F. Biner. The party chose not to go to Point Walker, as the ascent was made primarily as reconnaissance for conquest of the Aiguille Verte. |
| 1868-06-30 | First ascent | Point Walker: H. Walker, M. Anderegg, J. Jaun & J. Grange |
Eberlein #945; AC vol. 1 #57; Rebuffat #66; Damilano & Perroux #38a
Eberlein #940; AC vol. 1 #55; Damilano & Perroux #38l
Eberlein #926; AC vol. 1 #48; Rebuffat #96
Eberlein #928; AC vol. 1 #43; Rebuffat #97
AC vol. 1 #50
Eberlein #936; Damilano & Perroux #38n; Lowe #pp231; AC vol. 1 #52
Damilano & Perroux #38p
- Grandes Jorasses Hut Take train through Aosta valley to Pré-St.Didier. From there 5 km by bus to Courmayeur (1264m). Take bus to Entréves (1306 m), 2,5km from Courmayeur) and then by bus nort-eastwards up the Val Ferret 3,5km to Planpincieux (or Planpansier; 1579m) camping. Take the path starting left of the church and head north through sparse woods and over grassy slopes to the edge of Torrent de Marguera gorge. Go along the gorge to a rock wall and at its foot, cross right over the stream. After that climb a steep rugged rock rib and gully to the moraine between Glacier de Planpancieux (west) and Glacier des Grandes Jorasses (east). Climb the moraine ridge and higher up go left and over a slabby step (II, chains, ladders) obliquely up to the Grandes Jorasses Hut, hung on the rocks above Glacier de Planpincieux.
Most popular means of ascent and descent. Objectively much safer than Direct route to Pointe Walker. In the snow basin below summit avalanche and ice fall danger. Othervise customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.
From the hut go over the debris and snow to the rock ridge which separates Glacier Planpincieux and the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses. Ascend snow on the left (north) under these rocks (on the eastern edge of the Glacier de Planpincieux). From the upper end of the rock ridge, keeping somewhat left (north) go up the very crevased glacier, for about 300 meters to the lower end of the Rocher du Reposir (11/2 hours from the hut) a spur of Pointe Hélène. Climb the ridge on good holds(II and some III), usually excactly on its knife-edge, to its upper end (3 h from the hut). After crossing the glacier arm, continue directly up the rock rib (Rocher Whymper). Gain the crest of the rib and follow it on the easy broken rock , with few pitches of III to Pointe Whymper and from there reach the highest point by the summit ridge. Even when the rock is dry this way is more difficult, but takes about the same time (or slightly longer). It is objectively safer as one avoids ice-fall danger. Route finding is also easier, which makes this a better choice for descent. 6-7 hours from the hut, 5 hours for the descent.Eberlein #912; AC vol. 1 #42; Rebuffat #23; Goedeke #pp; Laroche & Lelong #52
mixed. First ascent route. Shortest and fastest (5-6 h) way to the summit, though seriously threatened by the seracs. Crevassed glacier. In the snow basin below summit avalanche and ice fall danger. Othervise customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.
From the hut go over the debris and snow to the rock ridge which separates Glacier Planpincieux and the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses. Ascend snow on the left (north) under these rocks (on the eastern edge of the Glacier de Planpincieux). From the upper end of the rock ridge, keeping somewhat left (north) go up the very crevased glacier, for about 300 meters to the lower end of the Rocher du Reposir (11/2 hours from the hut) a spur of Pointe Hélène. Climb the ridge on good holds(II and some III), usually excactly on its knife-edge, to its upper end (3 h from the hut). Traverse the steep glacier arm to the right (often threatened by avalanches in new snow or rotten afternoon snow) to the broad rock rib (Rocher Whymper) which descents from Pointe Whymper. Climb this, keeping left of the wildly disrupted Jorasses Glacier, up a sort of gully until one can traverse right into the flat glacier trough (for about 100 meters). Traverse swiftly eastwards (ice cliffs above and ice debris in the trough emphasise the urgency). Move up the snow slope right of the ice cliffs and finally gain the ridge a little to the right of Pointe Walker (keeping respectful distance from the cornices overhanging to the right) which leads directly to the summit of Pointe Walker. 5-6 hours from the hut, 4 hours in the descent. Descend only possible when snow is hard.Eberlein #911; AC vol. 1 #43; Goedeke #pp188; Laroche & Lelong #52
mixed. Although longer than preceding routes, this is by far the safest as it avoids the traverse across the snow slope right of the Rocher Reposoir if it is avalanche-prone. Customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.
From the hut go over the debris and snow to the rock ridge which separates Glacier Planpincieux and the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses. Ascend snow on the left (north) under these rocks (on the eastern edge of the Glacier de Planpincieux). From the upper end of the rock ridge, keeping somewhat left (north) go up the very crevased glacier, for about 300 meters to the lower end of the Rocher du Reposir (11/2 hours from the hut) a spur of Pointe Hélène. Climb the ridge on good holds(II and some III), usually excactly on its knife-edge, to its upper end (3 h from the hut). On reaching the top of the Rocher de Reposoir climb straight up the edge of the snow slope above and continue on easy snow-covered rocks to the west ridge a little below Pointe Croz. Follow the West ridge over Pointe Croz and Pointe Whymper to the summit. 7-8 hours from the hut.AC vol. 1 #44
Eberlein #915
Eberlein #895; AC vol. 1 #17
Eberlein #896; AC vol. 1 #18; Damilano & Perroux #48a
There's a bivouac hut in the col.
Higher than Aiguille de Rochefort but much less popular. Climbed almost solely as part of the complete Rochefort arete or traverse of the whole Jorasses - Rochefort -chain from Col des Hirondelles to Col du Geant.
- Rifugio Torino
Very impressive classic snow and ice ridge on the foot of mighty Dent du Géant. Main difficulty are the picturesque cornices on both sides. Partially very narrow and exposed.
From Salle á Manger starts the actual Arête. Climb on ridge to middle summit (3933m). On the other side descent steeply on snow and follow shard ridge to the final rocks of Aiguille de Rochefort. Traverse to right to a vague couloir and climb steeply up on somewhat loose rock with big holds (II). The right route might be a bit hard to find. It is also possible to climb directly up from the ridge (II-III). Continue further along the ridge to Dome de Rochefort and further to Col des Grandes Jorasses. Rifugio TorinoAC vol. 1 #15; Eberlein #891; Damilano & Perroux #49d
Eberlein #890
Very sharp needle, well visible and easy to recognise. One of the airiest 4000m peaks. Ascent is made less intimidating by thick fixed ropes on SW face. Can be combined with traverse of Rochefort ridge in a single day trip from Torino hut.
| First ascent | After the failure of such climbing legends as A.F.Mummery, rockets were used to shoot rope over the summit as a climbing aid. These attemps however did not succeed. | |
| 1900 | First free ascent | Austrians Heinrich Pfannl, Thomas Maischhberger and Franz Zimmer via North Ridge. |
- Rifugio Torino
A classic climb of moderate difficulty. The route is equipped with fixed ropes. It's wort taking some tape slings for belaying on the ropes and their huge anchor pegs. Objectively safe. Some open crevasses on Glacier du Géant.
From Salle á Manger. Descend a little and traverse mixed ground to the left to the south west edge. On a detached slab move left to the edge and up it a few metres to a piton. Then traverse 10 meters to the left to a shallow gully (peg). Up this 30 meters to a terrace. Climb the beautiful gold-brown slabs above (Plague Burgener), which are disfigured by thick hemp ropes. These lead to a good stance on the left (west) edge. Now traverse right and climb two chimneys (peg, ropes). Continue up walls and polished steps, always following the sweat, scratches and hemp tp the fore-summit (Pointe Sella). Make an exposed descent north-west down a short of chimney into a notch and up a crack to the main summit (Pointe Graham; Madonna). Rifugio TorinoEberlein #861; AC vol. 1 #5; Rebuffat #33; Goedeke #pp195; Laroche & Lelong #24
AC vol. 1 #12; Eberlein #863; Rebuffat #57
Easily accessible with lifts both from Aiguille du Midi and Chamonix or Courmayeur. Torino hut located here is important base for climbers providing access to Rochefort arete, Dent du Geant, Tour Ronde, Aiguille Blanche, Grand Pilier d'Angle, Brenve faces of Mont Blanc and Mont Maudit, Circue Maudit and East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Mont Mallet - Capucin du Tacul
Chamonix Aiguilles
Groupe Charmoz - Grepon
Groupe de Blaitière
AC vol. 2 #107; Eberlein #665; Rebuffat #93; Piola #47
- With Bernd on the Bonatti. Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
AC vol. 2 #107; Eberlein #665; Rebuffat #93; Piola #47
- With Bernd on the Bonatti. Bonatti Pillar TD+, by Jim Dockery (from Rock & Ice 14).
Eberlein #861
Groupe du Plan
AC vol 2 #36; Rebuffat #48
Aiguille du Midi
- Col du Midi
- Aiguille du Midi telepherique middle station
Eberlein #551; Damilano & Perroux #62n
- Jim and Bills Excellent Adventure. By Jim Frankenfield.
Eberlein #541; AC vol. 2 #15; Rebuffat #62; Damilano & Perroux #62i
- Col du Midi
Eberlein #533; AC vol. 2 #1; Piola #1; Damilano & Perroux #63b
- When Can I Go Again?. By Caroline Kinnear.
Mont Blanc Massif
Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont Blanc
Very popular peak, both north and East faces are easily accessible from Aiguille du Midi cable car.
The NW Face is a great, moderately steep glacier route finishing with easy rock scrambling to a pointy summit.
Normal route. same routeAC vol I #189; Eberlein #321; Rebuffat #17; Goedeke #pp198; Damilano & Perroux #65c
- Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 m. Information about Normal route.
- Col du Midi, From the téléphériquerique station Aiguille du Midi along North-East ridge to the foot of Aiguille du Midi South Face. Accross the glacier to the foot of the triangle (1h).
- refugio des Cosmiques
Ice couloir on the right-hand part of the triangle. Crux pitches are short and steep and are equipped with bolts.
Climb the two pitch of easily recognizable ice slope (45°-50° into couloir on the right of the face. One rope length (50°-75°) leads to key part of the route: 4th rope length 85°,70°,50° (a couple of rock pitons in situ). Fifth pitch (60°,70°,80°) leads to flatter mixed climbing. From good belay stands (partly drilled pitons) it is always possible to abseil. The route leads over 5 mixed pitches (up to II, 50°) to the top of Triangle du tacul (3970m) and over adjacent firn ridge to the main summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m). 4-8 hours. Descent over normal route (North West side). 85° (one place), 70° (1 pitch), otherwise 50°-60°.AC vol I #225; Eberlein #323; Damilano & Perroux #66b
Easiest route on the North face triangle. Sustained mixed climbing with slopes of 45-50° and a short ice couloir of 65° (ice grade II). Runs on the left-hand part of the actual triangle, joins Contamine Negri on the left-hand rand of the triangle at about 2/3 of the height.
The route follows the slope/couloir (45-50°) on the left of the rock spur around 150m to the foot of red rock tower. There are good belays (pitons and slings) on the rocks. Climb up to the shoulder and round the steep rock barrier on the right along ice couloirs and mixed terrain (60m, good belays with slings). Turn to the left for ca. 50m on the easier mixed ridge. Follow the snow slope (35/40°, 60m) diagonal to the right to the foot of the last rock barrier. Climb though ice couloir (65°, ice grade II) and mixed terrain on the left of the rocks. Follow the snow slope to the top of Triangle (P 3970, 3h). From there along the North Ridge (cornices) to the normal route and further to the summit (1h from the top of Triangle, 5h from Aiguille du Midi). Cosmiques Hut, téléphérique station Aiguille du MidiAC vol I #221; Laroche & Lelong #39; Damilano & Perroux #66k
The Contamine Mazeaud is the most central route of the triangle. Interesting, varied and popular ice climbing classic. A mixed route featuring steep snow and ice, as well as easy rock scrambling. Technically easier than the Chèré Couloir, though much longer and more exposed. Has "big" climb feeling, thus a great introduction to mixed climbing on big mountains. No bolts.
During the first rope length, keep left. Then go straight on and traverse to the right with the third rope length to mixed ground. Now you need still 4 rope lengths in order to traverse slightly to the right side so that you meet the Chèrécouloir at the end. Pitch 1: 50m, 50°, pitch 2: 45m, 50°/55°/65° (short passage),pitch 3: 50°, pitches 4-7: 50°/55°. Then you can go to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul in 1 h.AC vol I #223; Eberlein #325; Damilano & Perroux #66h
Ice line running more or less along the left-hand rand of the triangle.
Climb directly the couloir between the hanging glacier and the left edge of the rocky triangle.AC vol I #220; Damilano & Perroux #66m
Damilano & Perroux #66n
Damilano & Perroux #67c
Damilano & Perroux #67d
Damilano & Perroux #67g; Moran #40c
AC vol I #210; Eberlein #335; Rebuffat #59; Damilano & Perroux #67h, #66i
AC vol I #190; Moran #40d
AC vol I #203; Eberlein #338; Rebuffat #86
- The Ghost of Gervasutti. Gervasutti Pillar, Mt. Blanc De Tacul, August 1993 by Paul Harrington. First appeared in the Irish Mountain Log, No 29 Winter 1993.
AC vol I #201; Eberlein #340; Lowe #pp235
AC vol I #201; Eberlein #340; Lowe #pp235
Most commonly climbed as part of the Three Mont Blanc route. Three Mont Blanc route does not climb the summit though.
| First ascent | Johann Jaun & Johann von Bergen with W.E.Davidson and H.Seymour Hoare. |
- From Col du Midi over Mont Blanc du Tacul
Eberlein #301; AC vol. 1 #156; Goedeke #pp201; Moran #39c
Eberlein #302; AC vol. 1 #157; Moran #39b
- Rifugio Torino (3371m)
- Col du Midi
Eberlein #303; AC vol. 1 #174; Rebuffat #50; Laroche & Lelong #54; Damilano & Perroux #79a; Moran #39e
- Brenva Glacier
Eberlein #305; AC vol. 1 #165; Rebuffat #70; Damilano & Perroux #80d
Damilano & Perroux #80j
Mont Blanc is often referred as the highest mountain in Europe. This is not true, as Elbrus, located in Caucasus, is by far higher. However, Mont Blanc is clearly the highest mountain in the Alps. Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, scientist from Geneva, started the competition over Mont Blanc by promising a monetary reward of 20 thalers to the first ascender. Saussure himself was guided to the top in 1787. Mont Blanc is very complex mountain with four major ridges and five faces. Some of the ridges contain several peaks that are regularly climbed as independent goals. Bosses ridge (NW Ridge): Mont Blanc - Dome du Goûter - Aiguille du Goûter North face: Bossons glacier NE Ridge: - Mont Blanc - Mont Maudit - Mont Blanc du tacul - Col du Midi Brenva Face (East face) Peutery Ridge: Mont Blanc - Mont Blanc du Courmayeur - Aiguille Blanche - Aiguille Noire Freney and Brouillard faces (SE side) Brouillard Ridge: Mont Blanc du Courmayeur - Pico Luigi Amedeo - Mont Brouillard - Punta Baretti Miage Face (SW face) Currently there is over 100 routes leading to the top of Mont Blanc.
- Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco) (4808m)
- Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4748m)
- Grand Pilier d'Angle
- Dome du Goûter
- Aiguille du Goûter
| 1786-08-08 | First ascent | Michel-Gabriel Paccard (Doctor from Chamonix) and Jaques Balmat (crystal hunter). They found their way up the Rochers Rouges and the North-East slope (bivouac in the Colla della Brenva). |
| 1808 | First free ascent | Marie Paradis |
| 1876-01-31 | First winter ascent | I. Straton, J. Charlet & S. Coutett |
- Mont Blanc. Route Descriptions of normal routes, excerpted from "The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes" by Richard Goedeke at GORP.
- The Ascent of Mont Blanc. Information about classic routes.
- Nid d'Aigle
Mostlysnow plod with some scrambling on the ascent to Goûter hut (sort of via ferrata). Extremely crowded during high season. mixed Stone fall danger, especially while crossing the Grand Couloir, only few crevasses.
From the Goûter Hut head south then south-east along broad snow ridge to slope heading up Dome du Goûter (4303 m). Cross the summit (or pass it on the right side) and descent to Col du Dôme (4240 m). Continue up the steepening slope to Vallot Hut (4362 m) and further up along the Bosses Ridge (snow up to 40°) via Grande Bosse (4513 m) and Petite Bosse (4547 m). Pass the rocks of La Tournette (4677) and continue to the summit. Goûter Hut, Tête Rousse HutEberlein #181; AC vol. 1 #57; Rebuffat #24; Goedeke #pp210; Laroche & Lelong #15; Moran #38
- Chamonix
glacier. Twice as long as Gouter Ridge, only normal clacier travel with crevasses. Most commonly used route for ski alpinists. Occasionally plenty of crevasses, route finding problematic in bad weather. Less exposed to wind than Goûter Ridge.
From the hut, cross the glacier heading south-west in the direction of rocks at the end of long north ridge of Dôme du Goûter. Near the seracs of the Dôme, go left over a steep slope (the Petites Montées) to a flatter ramp (Petit Plateau, 3650 m, 2 h). Keeping well away from the seracs climb this flat section and continue up steep slope. Higher after especially big crevasse keep right to the extensive snow field of Grand Plateau (3980m). Traverse to south-west and climb the endless slope to Col du Dôme (6-7h from Grands Mulets Hut). Continue up the Bosses Ridge as for Goûter Ridge to the summit. Grands Mulets HutAC vol. 1 #58; Goedeke #pp212; Eberlein #182; Moran #38c
Difficult but secure glacier climb. Very long and lonesome route.
Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi Grands Mulets HutAC vol. 1 #59; Eberlein #183; Moran #38d
- Col du Midi
- Refuge des Cosmiques (3616m)
Almost as crowded as Gouter route. Somewhat more technical due to steeper slopes on the ascent to Col du Mont Maudit. Crevasses on both Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, but usually very good path. glacier/snow. Bergshrunds on the northern side (especially on the Mont Maudit) can be difficult to pass during (late) summer. Avalance danger on North Face of Mont Maudit and North-West face od Mont Blanc du Tacul after new snow. Route finding can be problematic (compass does not work reliably close to Mont Maudit).
Go up the slopes to the west of steep rock and ice triangle of the North Face, over usually snow-clogged bergschrunds (which may gap widely late in the season) and keeping right, climb steeply upwards to the snow shoulder (Epaule du Mont Blanc du Tacul, ca 4060m). If summiting Mont Blanc du Tacul is included in the plan, move left (east) over the broad ridge to the summit. If you chose this option, descend slopes to Col du Maudit. If summiting Mont Blanc du Tacul is omitted, go from Epaule of Mont Blanc du Tacul go south descending slightly into the extensive saddle of Col du Maudit (4035m). Traverse right (west) out of this on a glacier terrace under some seracs and then traversing steadily right, climb across steep face. Cross the sometimes large bergschrund (or when this is inpractical turn it on the left) and continue right, across very steep slope to the inconspicious saddle of the Col du Mont Maudit (Pointe 4345), here there is usually a wooden stake for belaying and abseiling. To summit Mont Maudit: follow the North-West Ridge with easy climbing (I) or traverse in wide arc across and up the snow of the West Face to the bold rock tooth of the summit block. From Summit of Mont Maudit go south-east down steep slope to the saddle (Pointe 4342). If you don't summit the Maudit, traverse from Col du Mont Maudit to Pointe 4342. Continue down the broad ridge over Pointe 4369 and Pointe 4361 (beware of cornices). Descent to Col de la Brenva (4303m, beware the cornices on the left). Ascend steep Mur de la Côte and follow the spur upwards to the summit keeping to left of the rock outcrops keeping the safe distance from cornices over the Brenva Face. Cosmiques HutAC vol. 1 #62; Goedeke #pp198 & pp 201; Eberlein #188; Laroche & Lelong #17; Moran #38b
- Access to Brenva glacier is from Val Vany, to the west of Entreves Val Veni towards Cantine de la Visaille.
- Glacier de Géant, Gain the Glacier from Rifugio Torino or from refugio des Cosmiques. Follow the glacier to the Cirque Maudit. Turn the North Face of Tour Ronde on the right. Gain the Arête de la Brenva and follow its furthermost end. Then to the left over 40°-50° steep ice couloir to the Col de la Fourche and southwards to the bivouac hut. 2-3 hours from Rifugio Torino. Abseil from bivouac de la Fourche directly down to upper plateau of Glacier de la Brenva. Cross the disrupted glacier to gain Col Moore (ca 3500 m).
- Routes on Brenva Face. By Quang-Tuan Luong.
Damilano & Perroux #82a-82m
AC vol. 1 #74; Eberlein #194; Damilano & Perroux #82g
AC vol. 1 #73; Eberlein #191; Rebuffat #56; Damilano & Perroux #82a, 82d; Moran #38n
- Der Brenva Sporn. By Ulrich Kinkel.
mixed. Popular route on Brenva Face. Considerably more difficult than Brenva Spur.
Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi Bivacco de la FourcheAC vol. 1 #75; Eberlein #195; Damilano & Perroux #82k
- Route Major. by Ian Barton.
- Access to Brenva glacier is from Val Vany, to the west of Entreves Val Veni towards Cantine de la Visaille.
- Glacier de Géant, Gain the Glacier from Rifugio Torino or from refugio des Cosmiques. Follow the glacier to the Cirque Maudit. Turn the North Face of Tour Ronde on the right. Gain the Arête de la Brenva and follow its furthermost end. Then to the left over 40°-50° steep ice couloir to the Col de la Fourche and southwards to the bivouac hut. 2-3 hours from Rifugio Torino. Abseil from bivouac de la Fourche directly down to upper plateau of Glacier de la Brenva. Cross the disrupted glacier to gain Col Moore (ca 3500 m).
AC vol. 1 #84; Eberlein #207
AC vol. 1 #86 (#142-#143-#135-#85); Eberlein #216; Rebuffat #95
Principal difficulty is the length and sustained and changing demands. Requires well settled weather. Remote. Everything that can possibly be encountered on high mountains: crevasses on a very disrupted glaciers (especially on retreat); stone-fall in the couloir to the Brèche Nord des Dames Anglaises, especially in good conditions; loose rock on the rib on the South-East Face; hypothermia on the summit ridge in storm; avalanches on the Rochers Gruber in bad weather, etc. Principal danger is the bad weather forcing a retreat. This will be either a down the Rochers Gruber or difficult ascent to the Col de l'Innominata.
From the hut go north-east under the walls of Aiguille Croux, and ascend over debris and snow onto the cirque in front of the Punta Innominata. From the snow of this cirque go right (east) over rocks and up a gully to the Col de l'Innominata (3205, 2-3h from the hut). On the other side, abseil down a steep gully and then descend to the Frêney Glacier. Take an adventurous route through the crevasse labyrinth to reach and climb the snow couloir descending from the Brèche Nord. If the bergschrund is impassable, or there is danger of stone-fall, the Schneider Couloir, running parallel to the main couloir but well to the left, below the Punta Gugliermina, is less dangerous. Higher up take the left (north) branch to the notch (3470m, obliquely left above is the Caveri (or Dames Anglaises) Bivouac Hut, 3490m. Above the notch, a steep rise bars the way ahead. Go left (west) and climb up and down on the wall of the rise, climb a short chimney and then, on shelves and ledges, cross some 40m (III and II) to a slabby, gully-like couloir. Climb the couloir (III) to the notch on an adjacent ridge, right of the thin pinnacle. On the right go up a sort of gully (III) for 10 meters to easy ground above the first steep rise. Up the ridge for a short way, then traverse right (Brenva side) over debris and snow to rubble ribs which are separated from one another by snow gullies. The third rib is the best, climb this directly, high above the criss-crossed Brenva Glacier, with occasional crumbling rock, until it ends at a notch on the main ridge (about 100 meters to the side and somewhat above the Punta Gugliermina). Ascend the ridge, then descend on the right to the left (IV). After that, go up to the ridge again and on this finally on a broad snow ridge to the south-east top (4107 , Pointe Seymour King). On the other side, go down a short brittle gully to the narrow snow ridge. Traverse across on its knife-edge (very exposed) to the central summit (4112 m, Pointe Güssfeldt) and continue to the North-West Summit (4104 m, Pointe Jones). These two summits are often turned - The Central on the Brenva side, the North-West on the Frêney side - which can involve climbing on very hard ice. Head north down to a rocky shoulder. Go steeply down from a fixed abseil point on the North-West Face and, most conveniently, abseil 400m from the lowest rocks to clear the bergschrund and thence descend to the Col de Peuterey (3934). If the weather turns bad, it is possible to descend from here (although complicated). On the left (west) of the ridge edge leading to the top of the Grand Pilier d'Angle traverse left a short distance until below where the ridge angle eases and cross the bergschrund here (often awkward) before working right to gain the ridge, 2-4h. On the left (west) of the ridge edge leading to the top of the Grand Pilier d'Angle make a longer traverse left before heading directly up a ramp of mixed climbing (stone-fall danger) to gain the ridge behind the Grand Pilier by a gendarme, 2-4h. After this climb the corniced ridge and finally up the stepening snow or ice face to the summit cornices of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (very long and in bad weather quickly murderous). Monzino HutAC vol. 1 #85; Eberlein #214; Goedeke #pp220; Moran #38m
- Col de Peuterey/bivouac Eccless
Frêney Pillar was regarded as the last of great problems in the Alps. Bad weather forced legendary Walter Bonatti and Pierre Mazeaud to cancel their pursuit in 1961. Used to be considered to be the most difficult route to summit Mont Blanc.
Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du MidiAC vol. 1 #91; Eberlein #224; Rebuffat #100
- Central Pillar of Frêney. By Guillaume Dargaud.
- Der Frêneypfeiler. One of the most difficult ways to ascent the Blanc. Excellent report with topo, unfortunately for German speakers only.
- The Central Pillar of Freney - Mont Blanc. By Dave Hollinger.
- Monzino hut
- Eccles Bivouac, Eccless bivouac hut can be reached from the ridge. Lower part of classic Innominata Ridge of Mont Blanc is usually bypassed by climbing directly to Eccless bivouac hut from Monzino hut and tackling the upper Innominata Ridge from there.
AC vol. 1 #99; Eberlein #230; Rebuffat #81; Moran #38l
- Col de Peuterey/bivouac Eccless
Damilano & Perroux #86i
Moran #38j
- Rifugio Gonella (3071m), Start from Cantine de la Visaille (1653m) in Val di Veni (this can be reached by bus from Courmayeur). Follow the path along moraines on the northern bank of the Miage Glacier. It is also possible to start from Lac Combal (1940 m) further up the valley by taking a path over big moraine on the south side to reach the Miage Glacier. Ascent the middle of the glacier passing below Dôme Glacier (2493 m) on the right and up to Pointe 2530 at the southern spur of Aiguilles Grise. Take a path on the right, 150 meters beyond Pointe 2530 following it up scree couloir, then steeply up east to cross the shoulder of the ridge to reach Dôme Glacier side. Continue up and across, bending right, across couloirs and snow slopes to a rock spur which leads up to Gonella Hut (3071m)
- Capanna Quintino Sella (3363m), Start from Cantine de la Visaille (1653m) in Val di Veni (this can be reached by bus from Courmayeur). Follow the path along moraines on the northern bank of the Miage Glacier.
AC vol. 1 #65; Moran #38i
Elegant and varied line that follows the rocky spur SW from from La Tournette (Pointe 4677). The route lies on the least visited face of the Mont Blnc. The Face lies in the shadow, so it is cold, which renders it safe against stone fall. Not recommended during windy or unsettled weather, as the route is heavily exposed to the wind. Not suitable for descend. Grade varies greatly between different guidebooks. Old books may list grade PD or PD both of which are commonly felt too low. Furthermore, Both the route and approach have become more difficult during the recent years.
Climb the small steep and crevassed glacier to the NE and reach a snow saddle at the SE foot of the Rocher du Mont Blanc (1½h). If the glacier is too crevassed, traverse East level with the hut and scramble up the rocky crest on the R of a narrow couloir, to the saddle (1¾h). Descend to the upper plateau of the Glacier du Mont Blanc and cross it heading northwards to reach the base of the spur coming down from La Tournette (¾h). Pass the rocky rognon 3620m on the left side and above. Cross a rimaye on the right (often tricky). Climb a little snowy couloir on the rocks bordering it and reach the crest of the ridge that marks the right side of the large wall at the base of the spur. Follow the steep crest (rock partly loose, II and III). Turn any obstacles on the right and continue up the snow ridge, crossing several rocky outcrops. Turn the last rock outcrop on the right and ascend diagonally rightwards to the Bosses Ridge. Continue to the summit. Capanna Quintino Sella, Gonella HutAC vol. 1 #64; Eberlein #251; Damilano & Perroux #88j; Moran #38h
AC vol. 1 #67; Damilano & Perroux #88e
AC vol. 1 #68; Damilano & Perroux #88c
Disrupted glacier that can be barely passable during late summer.
Ascend near western edge of the glacier, then move toward centre (crevassed). Higher up, follow the left (western) arm of the glacier, cross the bergschrund and go left to the Col des Aiguilles Grises (3809m, 3h). This point can also be reached by following Aiguilles Grises ridge from the hut (PD), climbing over the first two towers, turning the third on the west side and continuing over the summit of Calotte des Aiguilles Grises (3826m) to the col (4h). Continue snow ridge to the shoulder on the frontier ridge just above Col de Bionassay. Continue up the often corniced ridge to a further shoulder (4153m, iron posts) and then on to the Dôme du Goûter (4303m) to join the Goûter Ridge -route. Gonella HutAC vol. 1 #63; Goedeke #pp212; Eberlein #252; Rebuffat #30; Laroche & Lelong #16; Moran #38f
Satellites of Mont Blanc du Tacul
Possibly the most famous granite monolith in the area-
- Col du Midi,Glacier du Geant
AC vol. 1 #254; Rebuffat #89
AC vol. 1 #256; Eberlein #398
Tour Ronde
Not too important mountain per se. However, due to spectacular panorama from the summit, convenient location close toTorino hut and few classic climbs, quite popular peak.
| 1867-07-22 | First ascent | J.Blackhouse, T.Carson, D.Freshfield, C.Tucker, D.Balleys & M.Payot |
| 1985 | First winter ascent | U.Mautino, J.Petigax & C.Croux |
- Rifugio Torino (3371m), Starting from Torino Hut cross the Col des Flambeaux and go around the base of Aiguille de Toule.
- Col du Midi
Eberlein #454 (ascent), #459 (descent); AC vol. 1 #267; Rebuffat #11; Laroche & Lelong #7; Damilano & Perroux #71a (couloir variant)
- Rifugio Torino (3371m), Descend from Torino Hut northwards to the Glacier du Géant and continue north-west to Col des Flambeaux (3407m). Descent turning Aiguille de Toule and head to the foot of the North Face of Tour Ronde (1h from Torino Hut).
- Col du Midi
AC vol. 1 #274
Damilano & Perroux #71b
An established classic providing good introduction to steeper alpine faces. On this popular route it pays to get up early, not only to minimize possible rock or ice fall (the route gets morning sun) but to be ahead of other parties.
Pass the bergschrund in the middle part of the face (or on the right side). By keeping on the right side of the slope, it is possible to obtain good rock belays. After ca. 3 pitches of around 50° the face narrows to an icy couloir that bind the lower and upper fields together. This bottlenecks is the steepest part (two pitches of 50°-60°). Above this, it takes about 4 pitches (45°-50°) to the ridge. The final barrier to the summit, rock wall is mostly turned on the left side; at first descending a little, then ascending join the normal route (South East Ridge) and continue to the summit. Summit rock wall can also be climbed directly (30 m, 4c (UIAA IV)). Rifugio Torino, Cosmiques HutEberlein #455; AC vol. 1 #273; Rebuffat #35; Laroche & Lelong #41; Damilano & Perroux #71c
- Tour Ronde - Nordväggen. By Niklas Eriksson, Utsidan magazine. In Swedish.
- Tour Ronde. Durch die Nordwand im Juli 2002.. By Dietmar Hahm. In German.
Damilano & Perroux #71d
Damilano & Perroux #71e; AC vol. 1 #272
- Rifugio Torino (3371m), Descend from Torino Hut northwards to the Glacier du Géant and continue north-west to Col des Flambeaux (3407m). Descent turning Aiguille de Toule and head to the foot of the North Face of Tour Ronde (1h from Torino Hut). Continue further to the west face.
AC vol. 2 #268; Damilano & Perroux #71i
Unimportant peak per se located on Glacier du Geant, close to Tour Ronde. Climbing on the north side (AD, 200m)
Peuterey Ridge
Classic ridge running south from the summit of Mont Blanc via Mont Blanc du Courmayeur, Grand Pilier d'Angle, Col de de Peuterey, Aiguille Blanche, Breche Nord des Dames Anglaises, Pointe Gugliermina and Aiguille Noire. Separates Brenva and Freney faces.
Classic Peuterey Integral is difficult and very committing multi-day endeavour. Dames Anglaises variation is shorter and less difficult, still both challenging and committing enough for most tastes. There are bivouac huts close to Breche Nord des Dames Anglaises and Col de Peuterey.
Unimportant side summit of Mont Blanc separated from the main summit by snow ridge. Peuterey, Innominata and Broillard Ridges join at the summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur.
- Mont Blanc
Side summit of Mont Blanc. The easiest route to the top is either to follow Dames Anglaises variation of Peuterey Ridge or climb to Col de Peterey, then follow Petery Ridge to the summit. Easiest descent climbs to the summit of Mont Blanc.
- Col de Peuterey
Between Aiguille Blanche and Mont Blanc/Grand Pilier d'Angle. Starting point for the climbs on Freney and Brouillard faces of Mont Blanc. Bivouac Eccless is located in the col.
Aiguille Blance is considered to be the most difficult of the independent 4000 meter peaks in the Alps (normal route being D+). Aiguille Blance in generally climbed as a part of Peuterey Ridge -route to the Mont Blanc.
| 1885-07-31 | First ascent | Emile Rey, Ambros Supersaxo and Aloys Anthamatten with H.Seymour King via North-West Ridge, Col de Frêney and Col de Peuterey |
- Brenva glacier
- Monzino Hut
mixed. Principal difficulty is the length and sustained and changing demands. Requires well settled weather. Remote. Everything that can possibly be encountered on high mountains: crevasses on a very disrupted glaciers (especially on retreat); stone-fall in the couloir to the Brèche Nord des Dames Anglaises, especially in good conditions; loose rock on the rib on the South-East Face; hypothermia on the summit ridge in storm; avalanches on the Rochers Gruber in bad weather, etc. Principal danger is the bad weather forcing a retreat. This will be either a down the Rochers Gruber or difficult ascent to the Col de l'Innominata.
From the hut go north-east under the walls of Aiguille Croux, and ascend over debris and snow onto the cirque in front of the Punta Innominata. From the snow of this cirque go right (east) over rocks and up a gully to the Col de l'Innominata (3205, 2-3h from the hut). On the other side, abseil down a steep gully and then descend to the Frêney Glacier. Take an adventurous route through the crevasse labyrinth to reach and climb the snow couloir descending from the Brèche Nord. If the bergschrund is impassable, or there is danger of stone-fall, the Schneider Couloir, running parallel to the main couloir but well to the left, below the Punta Gugliermina, is less dangerous. Higher up take the left (north) branch to the notch (3470m, obliquely left above is the Caveri (or Dames Anglaises) Bivouac Hut, 3490m. Above the notch, a steep rise bars the way ahead. Go left (west) and climb up and down on the wall of the rise, climb a short chimney and then, on shelves and ledges, cross some 40m (III and II) to a slabby, gully-like couloir. Climb the couloir (III) to the notch on an adjacent ridge, right of the thin pinnacle. On the right go up a sort of gully (III) for 10 meters to easy ground above the first steep rise. Up the ridge for a short way, then traverse right (Brenva side) over debris and snow to rubble ribs which are separated from one another by snow gullies. The third rib is the best, climb this directly, high above the criss-crossed Brenva Glacier, with occasional crumbling rock, until it ends at a notch on the main ridge (about 100 meters to the side and somewhat above the Punta Gugliermina). Ascend the ridge, then descend on the right to the left (IV). After that, go up to the ridge again and on this finally on a broad snow ridge to the south-east top (4107 , Pointe Seymour King). On the other side, go down a short brittle gully to the narrow snow ridge. Traverse across on its knife-edge (very exposed) to the central summit (4112 m, Pointe Güssfeldt) and continue to the North-West Summit (4104 m, Pointe Jones). These two summits are often turned - The Central on the Brenva side, the North-West on the Frêney side - which can involve climbing on very hard ice. Head north down to a rocky shoulder. Go steeply down from a fixed abseil point on the North-West Face and, most conveniently, abseil 400m from the lowest rocks to clear the bergschrund and thence descend to the Col de Peuterey (3934). If the weather turns bad, it is possible to descend from here (althouygh complicated). Monzino HutAC vol. 1 #85; Eberlein #214; Goedeke #pp220
Dames Anglaises bivouac hut is located close to col.
Dome du Gouter - Aiguille de Bionassay
- Durier Hut
mixed ridge. Often climbed as a part of traverse of Mont Blanc with Dômes de Miage. Easiest route to summit. Beware of cornices on the ridge
Normal route. same route Traverse over Bionassay Ridge and Bosses grat to Mont Blanc. Durier HutGoedeke #pp217; AC vol. 1 #48; Damilano & Perroux #90b; Laroche & Lelong #44
- South Ridge, North face, Dome du Gouter
Goedeke #pp218; AC vol. 1 #49; Laroche & Lelong #44 (as a part of traverse)
- Tête Rousse Hut
AC vol. 1 #50; Damilano & Perroux #90a
Tré la tête
- Conscrits Hut
Laroche & Lelong #47; Eberlein #112; AC vol. 1 #24
France Alps Mont Blanc Massif
- Dômes de Miage (3673m)
- Dôme occidental (West Summit) (3670m)
- Pointe 3666 (3666m)
- Dôme central (Central summit) (3633m)
- Pointe 3672 (3672m)
| 1858-09-02 | First ascent | E.T. Coleman, Frédéric Mollard & Joseph Jacquemont |
- Refugio des Conscrits
glacier
From the hut to the plateau des Col Infranchissable. Now to the left (north-west) up the glacier (crevasses) to Col des Dômes. Over a short firn ridge to the main summit. Refugio des Conscrits 2602Eberlein #141
glacier beware of cornices, crevasses on Glacier de Tré-la-Tête
From the hut over the moraine and about 150m down to Plan Glacier (Glacier de Miage). Traverse this and head for left flank of North-West Pillar, a bit above its base at 2600m (45m). Climb on the crest of the pillar for around 600m until the pillar turns into snow and ice spur. Follow the spur (50°) to get to the summit ridge on the eastern side of Col des Dômes (at ca. 3620m). Now to left (east) along the easy ridge to the summit at 3673m (5-6h). Frome here descent to Col des Dômes and further along South-West Ridge to the West Summit and further along the ridge descending to Col de la Bérangère (3348m) and ascending North-East Ridge of Aiguille de la Bérangère to the summit (3425m). Descend ther normal route of Aiguille de la Bérangère (South-West Flank). Refugio des Conscrits 2602Eberlein #144 (also #141, #142, #132, #131); Laroche & Lelong #6; AC vol. 1 #5 (also #3, #2, #14)
- Plan-Glacier hut
mixed during the begin of the season, when there's still plenty of snow on the upper slopes
Climb on the crest of the pillar for around 600m until the pillar turns into snow and ice spur. Follow the spur (50°) to get to the summit ridge on the eastern side of Col des Dômes (at ca. 3620m). Now to left (east) along the easy ridge to the summit at 3673m (5-6h). Plan-Glacier-Hut 2713Laroche & Lelong #53; Eberlein #152; AC vol. 1 #12; Damilano & Perroux #91i
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Ari Paulin (email), 2009 |
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