Mont Blanc Massif - Mountains

Aiguilles Rouges

Le Brevent2525
Located in the western part of the group. Access with Brevent ski lift.
Aiguille de la Gliere2836
  • Aiguille de la Gliere (2836m)
  • Chapelle de la Gliere (2669m)
Chapelle de la Gliere
Unimportant side summit (2669m) of Aiguille de la Gliere, but has one of the most popular climbs of Aiguilles Rouges along its SE ridge.
  • l'Index lift station
SE Ridge. Rock, D; IV+; 14 pitches, 3h.
One of the most popular climbs in Aiguilles Rouges. Longer and more difficult alternative to crowded normal route of Aiguille de l'Index.
Voie normal. PD.
Aiguille Pouce2874
South face
10 routes,"voie des Dalles" is the most classic one.
voie des Dalles. Rock, TD-; VI-; 400m, 4h.
Aiguille de l'Index2595
Not very important peak per se, but extremely popular due to its proximity to Index telepherique station.
SE Ridge
SE Ridge. PD+/AD-; 3b/4b/5.7 (one move); 200m, 1,5h.
descent involves sinbgle abseil (20m).
East face
Several multipitch rock routes, mostly with bolt protection and around grade 5. Very convenient access from Index cable car.
  • Index telepherique station
Voie Perroux. II D; 5c; 250m.
Aiguille Perseverance2901
Located to the east of Aiguilles des Chamois.
South Ridge
South Ridge. AD; IV+; 250m, 4h.
NE Ridge
NE Ridge. D; IV+; 4h.
Grande Floria2888
Aiguille Crochues2840
Aiguille Belvedere2965
Aiguille des Chamois2902
Traverse from Aiguille Perseverance. PD; III+.
From Aiguille Perseverance along its West Ridge to Col de la Perseverance. From there along ENE Ridge of Aiguille des Chamois to summit. Descent via West Ridge to Lac Blanc.

North of Mont Dolent

Chardonnet - Pointe de Bron

Aiguille Forbes3489
F.
Fenetre du Tour3336
Located between Aiguille Forbes and Grande Fourche..Direct route between Glacier du Tour (Refugio Albert I) and Glacíer du Saleina (Cabane du Saleina), but hardly shorter than via Col du Tour and Fenêtre de Saleina. Starting point of classic Forbes are on Aiguille du Chardonnet.
West side
From Glacier du Tour. Glacier, F; 2h.
Approach route from Refugio Albert I to Forbes arete route on Aiguille du Chardonnet.
East side
From Glacier du Saleina. Glacier, 2,5h.
Grande Fourche3611
Petite Fourche3513
Col du Tour3282
Pass between Glacier du Tour and Plateau du Trident, separating Between Aiguille Purtscheller and Tête Blanche.
West side
West side from Glacier du Tour. F; 2h.
East side
east side from Plateau du Trient. F; 1h.
Aiguille Col du Tour
Tête Blanche3425
Aiguille Purtscheller3478
South ridge
South ridge. 190m, 2h.
PD.
Aiguille du Tour3544
  • Aiguille du Tour (3542m)
  • Aiguille du Tour (3544m)
There are several and moderate routes. French side routes are up to 500m high.
East side
Traverse. Ice/mixed, F/PD; 35/40°, II; 840m, face 100m 3-4h to the summit from Refugio Albert I, descent 1,5h . 1864-08-18First ascentC G Heathcote & M Andermatten, 1864-08-18.
  • Laroche & Lelong 4
  • Eberlein 1551, #1552
  • Biner 112
South flank
Couloir de la Table. Ice, AD; 50° (short), mostly 40°, II; 840m, 300m in couloir approach 2h, ascent 2h, descent 1,5h .
Climb in the beginning on the right, later on the left part of couloir. Before the exit to the West Ridge, the couloir steepens a little. Beware of loose blocks at the exit (1h). To the right along rocky (or mixed) ridge (exposed but easy) to the south summit (3-4h from the hut). Descent along the normal route: descend 60m along the North Ridge to reach a small sol. Follow a good band to right (it divides east face, easy blocky terrain) and pass the bergschrund after a short slope. From therer in south-west, later south along the foot of Aiguille Purtscheller to Col Supérieur du Tour (3289m, 50 steep). Cross the col and descent a relatively steep wide slope to join the approach route (1,5h to the hut). .
  • AC vol. 2 275
  • Eberlein 1555
  • Laroche & Lelong 13
  • Damilano & Perroux 1a
Aiguille du Genepi3265
Pointe de Bron3081

Petite Fourche - Aiguilles Dorees - Le Portalet

Fenetre de Saleina3264
Important pass connecting Plateau du Trient and Glacier du Saleina. Located between Aiguille de la Fenêtre and Petite Fourche
North side
North side from Plateau du Trient. 1,25h.
South side
South side from Glacier du Saleina. 2h.
Tête Biselx3509
Prominent rock peak in the middle of Aiguilles Dorées
North side
East-West traverse of Aiguilles Dorées. 400m.
Tête Crettex - Aiguille Jevelle - Le Trident - Col Copt - Aiguille Sans Nom - Tête Biselx - Aiguille Panchées - Aiguille de la Varappe.
Col Copt3410
North side
North Couloir des Col Copt. Ice, AD+/D-; 50/55°; 250m in couloir approach 1h, ascend 2h, traverse and descend to the Plateau de Trient 2h . 1882-07-04First ascentA Barbey, F Biselx & H Copt, 1882-07-04.
abseil along left rand .
  • Eberlein 1588
  • Laroche & Lelong 40
Le Trident3436
Tête Crettex3419
Col des Plines
Le Portalet3344
North flank
North Flank. Snow/ice, PD; 35-45°; 350m from bergschrund approach, 20-30min, from hut to summit 2-3h .
  • AC vol. 2 297
  • Eberlein 1602
  • Laroche & Lelong 30
North flank & West ridge. 350m, 3h.

Bec de Lachat - Aiguille Chardonnet

Bec de Lachat2447
Bec Rouge Inferior2841
Bec Rouge Superior3051
Aiguille du Passon3383
Aiguille Adams Reilly3506
Col superieure du Adams Reilly
Aiguille de Chardonnet3824
East Ridge
Forbes Arete (East Ridge). Ice/mixed, III AD/E3; AD/53°/50m°, III/3b; approach 550m, from bergschrund 600m 6-7h from Refugio Albert I, descent descent 2-3h . 1899-07-30First ascentL.H. & T.Aubert & M.Crettez, 1899-07-30.

A traverse of the Chardonnet from east to west via the Forbes Arête. A glacier approach; steep snow and ice to the ridge; snaking and winding over and around towers of solid granite followed by a technical descent via North Flank and West Ridge.

Classic. Climb the glacier arm (crevasses, may be endangered by seracs) to a plateau below Fenêtre Sep du Tour. Slant to the the right (west) below a small group of seracs to reach an ice ridge and follow this to s steep bulge ("Bosse", 50° for about 100m, max 53°). Continue over the following less-steep slope to the East Ridge just above the high gerdame at ca. 3700m. Climb over the first gendarme by a chimney crack (III), later follow the mixed ridge (beware of cornices). Descend a short firn slope on the south of the last gendarme and climb the summit block in easy mixed terrain (chimney). The summit is reached shortly after the exit of Migot Spur. (3-4h, 5-6h from the Hut). Aiguille du Chardonnet North Flank and West Ridge .
  • Eberlein 1522
  • AC vol. 2 240
  • Laroche & Lelong 42
  • Rebuffat 28
  • Biner 124
  • Damilano & Perroux 3a
North face
Wide glacier face with numerous seracs.
Migot Spur (North Buttress). Ice/mixed, IV D-/E4; 65°, III-IV/3a; approach 550m, from bergschrund 450m 3-6h from Refugio Albert I . 1899-07-30First ascentA.Migot & C.Devouassoux, 1899-07-30.

Slightly harder than the Forbes Arête, and is a good introduction to the longer mixed routes of the range. Mostly ice with some 100m of mixed ground. Considered by many to be the finest mixed climb of its grade in the Mont Blanc area. Spur is gained from the right avoiding the bottom part. Direct start (Migot Spr integral) involves ore mixed ground and is somewhat more difficult.

Classic. From the approach of Forbes Arete traverse right to the foot of the buttres (2h). Climb up the snow slopes on the right side of the spur (some stonefall danger) until easy mixed ground leads to the crest of the ridge. Climb the steepening snow ridge followed by icy rocks and short couloirs (good rock belays possible throughout the mixed part). Bypass the big serac barrier (may sometimes be dangerous) by slanting right up snow-covered slabs to an easy angled snow ridge. Continue to the final slope and climb it (100-150m 50°) to the summit. 450m, 6h from the hut. Aiguille du Chardonnet North Flank and West Ridge .
  • Eberlein 1525
  • AC vol. 2 242
  • Laroche & Lelong 56
  • Rebuffat 43
  • Biner 125
  • Damilano & Perroux 3f
Aureille-Feutren Couloir (North Couloir). Ice/mixed, III D+/TD-; III/WI4+/Sco IV; 620m/2-3h 500m/4-5h 2-3h . 1942-01-01First ascentJ. Aureille & Y. Feutren, 1942.

Ice couloir between Migot (North) and NW spurs. Cold and snowy conditions are necessary, otherwise central part of the route gives steep and problematical mixed climbing.

Cross the rimaye wherever possible and reach the bottom of the narrow couloir via 50º slope. Climb up for two steep pitches and sustained pitches (Scottish 4, 65º/70º with max. 80º). Continue up 55º, then 50º slope to the summit. Aiguille du Chardonnet North Flank and West Ridge .
  • AC vol. 2 243
  • Damilano & Perroux 3g
NW face
Rocky face between NW Spur and (N)W Ridge with few prominent ice couloirs.
Voie Escarra. Ice, III D+; WI4; approach 670m, ascend 450m approach 2-3h, descend 2-3h .

Lefttmost and the longest of the ice couloirs on NW side. Runs parallel to NW Ridge.

Climb Glacier de l'Épaule to the north on either side of the rock island 3214m and at 3370 to the bergscrund of the couloir on the left (3h from the hut). Cross the bergschrund and ascent the couloir. After the junction of Charlet-Bettembourg couloir through steep mixed terrain passing the junction of Gabarrou couloir continue to the top of of the couloir. Aiguille du Chardonnet North Flank and West Ridge .
  • Laroche & Lelong 56
  • Damilano & Perroux 3j
Gabarrou Couloir (North-West Face 1979 Route). Ice, III D+; III/WI4/60-80°, 4b, M; 670m/2-3h 150m/450m/4h 2-3h . 1979-08-12First ascentJean-Paul Michod & Patrick Gabarrou, 1979-08-12.

Central one of the three ice couloirs.

Climb Glacier de l'Épaule to the north on either side of the rock island 3214m and at 3370 to the bergscrund of the couloir on the left (3h from the hut). Gabarrou couloir is really narrow and hard to notice between Escarra and Charlet-Bettembourg couloirs. Cross the bergschrund and ascent the wide couloir. After the junction of Charlet-Bettembourg couloir through steep mixed terrain to the foot of Gabarrou couloir. Climb this in its middle (150m, 60-80°). After the exit as directly as possible to the mixed ridge (mainly rock, 4b) and further to ice slope that ends in a couloir. A short ridge leads to the summit (4h from bergschrund). It is also possible to get to the summit along a traversing ramp that begins at the exit of the couloir (50-55°). Aiguille du Chardonnet North Flank and West Ridge .
  • AC vol. 2 246
  • Laroche & Lelong 56
  • Damilano & Perroux 3i
Charlet-Bettembourg Couloir (North-West Couloir). Ice, III TD-; III/WI4/Sco IV/80°; 670m/2-3h 450m/4-6h 2-3h . 1972-07-15First ascentG Bettembourh & J Charlet, 1972-07-15.

Right-hand ice couloir on NW face. Slants to the right from the same initial couloir as Gabarrou couloir and voie Escarra. The couloir is steep (Scottish 4) widening to an exit on easier snow slopes. Slant to the left on mixed ground fro 200m to the summit.

Aiguille du Chardonnet North Flank and West Ridge .
  • AC vol. 2 247
  • Laroche & Lelong 56
  • Damilano & Perroux 3k
North Flank and West Ridge. Ice/mixed, AD-/AD; 45°, III and II; 600m from Refugio Albert I 4h from Refugio Albert I, 5h from Cabane du Trient . 1879-08-01First ascentP.W.Thomas, J.Imboden, J.H.Lochmatten, 1879-08-01.

Mixed (though mostly ice). Glacier de l'Épaule - Col Superior Adams Reilly - West Ridge. Begschrunds not infrequently difficult to pass. Most common descent route. Often used as descent route after ascent of Forbes arete or Migot Spur.

Normal route. Climb on the left side of Point 3214 up the small and heavily crevassed glacier de l'Epaule in the general direction of Aiguille Adams Reilly 3506 that rises between col A. Reilly and col sup. A Reilly. Across steep firn slope and partially difficult bergschrunds to the Col sup. A Reilly. From there along the ridge to the shoulder of P 3587 (1-2h). The steep ridge start to the left of this point. Over the steep firn slope to the rocks that are turned on the left and climb over rock bands close to narrow ice couloir. As soon as the terrain gets less steep traverse over loose rock and firn to the pre-summit. Over the airy rocks (sometimes snow) to the summit (2h from the shoulder). same route. Follow the easy South-West ridge to the upper rand of West Couloir (easy to recognise). Descent the couloir for ca. 150m, then following the rocks and a further snow field and after that keeping to the left (west). Don't go in a narrow steep and narrow couloir, that falls to Argentière side to the begin of narrow and relatively steep side-couloir. Descend the couloir (sometimes stone fall dangered and iced, slings on the right, abseil 30m). Col Supérieur A. Reilly is reached after about 100 altitude meters. Descend the steep north slopes of Glacier de l'Épaule (sometimes bergschrunds are really high and wide open requiring an abseil from ice bollar or abalakov). You should reach the Glacier de Tour on the right of rocks that divides the lower Glacier de l'Èpaule (if the creavasses are wide open, rocks can also be turned on the other side). The follows a zone of huge crevasses that run parallel to the walking direction. If the glacier has a good snow cover, it is possible to take a direct route to the hut. Otherwise go north-east and join the approach route in reverse direction. .
  • Eberlein 1521
  • AC vol. 2 239 (descent)
  • Biner 123
  • Damilano & Perroux 3l
Col du Chardonnet3323
Between Aiguille du Chardonnet and Aiguille d'Argentiére, starting point of SE ridge of Aiguille du Chardonnet. Often used pass between Glacier de Argentiére and Glacier du Saleina. It is possible to continue to Plateau du Trien via Fenêtre de Saleina or to Glacier du Tour via Fenêtre du Tour.
SW side
From d'Argentière glacier. F; 2,5-3h.
NW side
From glacier du Saleina. 2,5h.

Argentiére - Dolent

Aiguille d'Argentière3902
Beatiful and prominent peak, easy to recognise from Argentiere side. There are currently more than 50 routes, with Glacier du Milieu (normal route), North face and Jardin Ridge being classics.
1900-01-01
Aiguille d'Argentière, ,
First ascent
1864-07-15 A Reilly and E Whymper with H Charlet, M Croz and M Payot
1900-01-01
Aiguille d'Argentière, ,
First winter ascent
1910-01-09 M Cottier with M Crettez
South flank
Y Couloir. AD/E3; avg. 45°; 1130m, 450m in couloir approach 1,5h, ascent 2-3h, descent 2-2,5h . 1922-07-01First ascentH.Cameré (solo), 1922-07.

ice/firn Recommended only in good conditions during early summer. Early start necessary (couloir should be started an hour before sunrise at the latest), stonefall danger.

The main difficulty is usually the passing of Bergschrund. Pass the bergschrund on the right if its not open. In another case reach the rocks on the right below the bergschrund and climb a steep chimney and ascending to the left to the rand of the couloir above the bergschrund. Cross the lawine path and climb on its left side. Pass the left hand of the Y and climb further in the middle of the right hand of the couloir up to the col on the left of Flèche Rousse. Climb the slope along the ridge to the summit (2-3h from the Bergschrund). Milieu Glacier .Rifugio d'Argentière
  • Eberlein 1483
  • AC vol. 2 218
  • Laroche & Lelong 33
North face
North Face Original. D-/D/Rus 4A; avg.50°, IV+; 650m 3-6h . 1926-08-02First ascentJacques Lagarde & Henri de Ségane, 1926-08-02.

ice In left part ice fall danger.

.Cabane du Trient
  • Eberlein 1475
  • AC vol. 2 209
  • Rebuffat 65
  • Biner 126.2
  • Damilano & Perroux 4d
Messner Route (North - North-East Face). D/TD-; III/D/55°, avg. 49°, IV, mostly III; 700m ascent 4-6h . 1967-08-06First ascentJ.Mayerl, H. Holzer, R. & G. Messner, 1967-08-06.
  • Eberlein 1476
  • AC vol. 2 211
  • Damilano & Perroux 4h
West face
Milieu Glacier (South-West Flank). Glacier, II PD+/G3; II/PD+/50°; 1200m, 400 of them 35°-40° steep 4-5h . 1880-08-14First ascentL.Dècle, Y.A.Hutchinson, A.Imserg & L.Lanier, 1880-08-14.
Normal route. Very popular route. Lots of crevasses in the center of Glacier du Milieu. From Refugio d'Argentière follow the path north-west to Glacier du Milieu. Keep to the right until the narrower point. Then move to the central glacier and then again to the right until bergschrund. After passing this, climb up continuously steepening slope (30°-50°) to the ridge between main and side summits. Climb on the right side of the ridge to the summit. Descent the same route same route. .Rifugio d'Argentière
  • Eberlein 1471
  • AC vol. 2 206
  • Rebuffat 19
  • Biner 126
  • Damilano & Perroux 4a
West Flank and North East Ridge (Voie Whymper). PD/PD+; 45°; 1200m . 1864-07-15First ascentE.Whymper, A.Reilly, M.Croz, M.Payot & H.Charletr, 1864-07-15.
  • Eberlein 1472
  • AC vol. 2 208
  • Damilano & Perroux 4b
Jardin Ridge (SW Ridge). D; IV+ (25 m), mostly IV and III, short mixed sections; 900m 9h, ridge ca. 1,5 km . 1942-08-27First ascentM.A.Azéma & A.Charlet, 1942-08-27.
  • Eberlein 1485
  • AC vol. 2 220
  • Biner 127
Traverse (Voie Whymper - Glacier du Millieu). PD/PD+; 45°; 1200m ascent 5h, descent 2-3h . 1864-07-15First ascentE.Whymper, A.Reilly, M.Croz, M.Payot & H.Charlet, 1864-07-15.
  • Eberlein 1472, #1471
  • AC vol. 2 208, #206
  • Damilano & Perroux 4b, #4a
  • Rebuffat 19
  • Biner 126
  • Laroche & Lelong 20
East face
Barbey Couloir. AD; 50°, avg.45°; 600m 5-6h . 1884-07-27First ascentA.Barbey & J.Bessard, 1884-07-27.
  • Eberlein 1478
  • AC vol. 2 214 & #215
  • Damilano & Perroux 4j
Fleche Rousse Ridge (East-South-East Ridge). AD; 50°, III, mostly easier; 450m 1,5h, ridge length ca. 1 km . 1893-08-03First ascentG.H.Masse, J.H.Wicks, M.C.Wilson, 1893-08-03.
  • Eberlein 1480
  • AC vol. 2 217
Aiguille de la Neuve3753
Col du Tour Noir3535
Possible pass from Cabane du Saleina to Rifugio d'Argentière. Takes more time than the route via Col du Chardonnet.
SW side
SW side from Glacier d'Argentière. 2,5h.
North side
North side from Glacier de Saleina. 4-6,5h.
Le Tour Noir3837
West flank
Traverse North Ridge - South-East Flank. Mixed, PD+; 40°, 3b; 1066m 4h,descend 3h .
  • Eberlein 1441, #1442
  • Laroche & Lelong 18
  • Biner 132, #130
SE flank. .
Col d'Argentière3552
Pass from Argentiere glacier to Cabane de l'A Neuve
West side
West side from Glacier d'Argentière. 3h.
East side
East side from Glacier de l'A Neuve. 3,5h.
Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent3680
2km long ridge between Col d'Argentière and Brèche de l'Amône. Climbs are generally more difficult from the Swiss side.
Aiguille de l'Amône3584
One of the peaks in Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent.
North face
North face. 440m.
.
Breche de l'Amône

Aiguille de la Neuve - Clochers de Planereuse

Grande Lui3509
Grande Darrey3514
Grande Pointe des Planereuses3151
Clochers de Planereuse2805

Mont Dolent - Col des Hirondelles

Dolent - Triolet

Mont Dolent3823
versant A Neuve
There are several difficult (WI 4 and 5) and serious (IV and V) ice routes on the face.
North face (versant d'Argentière)
West Slope & North Ridge. Mixed, D; IV, 50°; 600m 8h . 1906-07-29First ascentH.Kugy, G.Balaffio, J.Croux & D.Promment, 1906-07-29.
  • AC vol. 2 35
  • Eberlein 1393
  • Rebuffat 45
Voie Charlet (North-West Face). Mixed, III D+/TD-; 55° (550m)°; 700m 4,5h . 1934-06-10First ascentArmand Charlet, Marcel Couturier & Alfred Simond, 1934-06-10.
  • AC vol. 2 33
  • Eberlein 1396
  • Damilano & Perroux 8h
South face
South Flank. Mixed, PD/PD+; 40°, II, mostly easier; 100m 4h . 1864-07-09First ascentE.Whymper, M.Croz, H.Charlet, A.A.Reilly & M.Payot, 1864-07-09.
  • AC vol. 2 32
  • Eberlein 1391
  • Biner 133
  • Damilano & Perroux 8i
East side
Gallet Ridge and Traverse (East Ridge). AD; 30-45°, bergschrunds steeper°, III; 1156m, 22230m descent, 700m on the ridge (length 1200m) 5h from bivouac, descent 4h . 1901-08-21First ascentFA (original): A Gallet, A Muller & J Balleys, 1901-08-21.1907-08-02First ascentFA (modern variant): A Jacquerod, M Kurz & J Gabiou, 1907-08-02.
  • AC vol. 2 38
  • Eberlein 1395
  • Laroche & Lelong 50
  • Biner 134
Pointe de Pre de Bar3658
Pointe du Domino3655
North face
Voie Messner-Marchal de la Brèche. III TD/Rus 5A; III/WI3.
Petit Viking. III TD; III WI4+/Sco IV,5; 500m.
AD.
Col du Dolent3484
Aiguille Triolet3870
North face
Classic north face. Technically than Cortes or Droites, however serious due to serac fall danger. Much less popular than north face of Les Courtes.
  • Rifugio d'Argentière
Gréloz-Roch (North Face Original Route). Ice, V TD-; V AI2/Sco III/60/65°, avg.54°; 800m 6-8h . 1931-09-20First ascentRobert Gréloz & André Roch, 1931-09-20.
Classic. Classic ice route with serious serac hazard. Technically easier than classic routes on the north faces of Les Courtes and Les Droites.
  • AC vol. 2 11
  • Eberlein 1076
  • Rebuffat 88
  • Damilano & Perroux 15a
Contamine-Lachenal. Ice, TD; V/3, 70°, avg.54° Scottish 4 and 3 (4-5 pitches); 750m 7-10h . 1947-09-13First ascentA.Contamine & L.Lachenal, 1947-09-13.
More direct and difficult alternative to classic Gréloz-Roch route. Serious.
  • AC vol. 2 12
  • Eberlein 1077
  • Damilano & Perroux 15b
East side
South-East Ridge Integral (Mont Rouges). Rock, AD+; IV (one place), III; 500m 6-7,5h . 1904-07-09First ascentE.M.F.Bradby, J.H.Wicks, C.Wilson & H.Rey, 1904-07-09.
  • AC vol. 2 15
  • Eberlein 1072
South side
Glacier du Talèfre and Col de Triolet (French normal route). PD+; III; 1,5-2h from Col de Triolet, 5,5-7h from Refugio de Couvercle . 1900-07-27First ascentTh.Maischberger, H.Pfannl & F.Zimmer, 1900-07-27.
  • AC vol. 2 9
  • Eberlein 1071

Grand Montets - Aiguille Triolet

Aiguille des Grands Montets3297
Petite Aiguille Verte3512
NW side
NW face (Face Nord). Snow/ice, PD; I/AD/50-55°; 100m 1h . 1900-01-01First ascentAndré Contamine.
Normal route. West Ridge to Col des Grands Montets (F+/PD-, 1h) .Rifugio d'Argentière, Grands Montets Lift
  • Eberlein 1230
  • AC vol. 2 117
  • Damilano & Perroux 31c
NW Ridge. Mixed, I F+/PD-; 3b, III (one move), I AI1; 100m 1h . 1927-03-20First ascentFA in winter: A. Charlet & C. Devouassoux, 1927-03-20.1900-01-01First ascentJ.E. & Pierre Charlet, 6-18-09.
Normal route. same route to Col des Grands Montets (1h) .Rifugio d'Argentière, Grands Montets Lift
  • Eberlein 1230
  • AC vol. 2 116
  • Damilano & Perroux 31d
NE side
Couloir Chevalier (East - North-East Couloir). Snow/ice, II AD+/D; I/AD/50-55°; 340m from bergschrund to summit, 250m in couloir ascent 3h, descent 1h to Col des Grands Montets . 1930-08-23First ascentH. Cameré & Pierre Chevalier, 1930-08-23.
West Ridge to Col des Grands Montets (F+/PD-, 1h) .Rifugio d'Argentière, Grands Montets Lift
  • Eberlein 1230
  • Laroche & Lelong 38
  • AC vol. 2 119
  • Damilano & Perroux 31a
Aiguille Verte45.912582320196666.9736141379691844122
  • Aiguille Sans Nom
  • Pointe Croux (4023m)
  • Pointe Eveline (4026m)
  • Aiguille Verte (4122m45.912582320196666.973614137969184)
  • col de la Grande Rocheuse (4050m)
  • Grande Rocheuse (4102m45.9345176.9727833)
  • col Armand Charlet (3998m)
  • Aiguille du Jardin (4035m45.9338896.975833)

Very important peak, highest mountain in the northern part of Mont Blanc group. Several routes from all sides, all long and challenging.

Four major ridges:

  • Moine ridge (SW ridge)
  • Jardin ridge (East ridge) - col de la Grande Rocheuse - Grande Rocheuse - col Armand Charlet - Aiguille Jardin
  • Sans nom ridge (West ridge) - Pointe Croux - Aiguille Sans Nom (3982m) - Brèche Sans Nom (3725m)
  • Grands Montets Ridge (NW ridge) - col du Nant Blanc (3776m) - col des Grands Montets (3233m)

Major faces

  • Nant Blanc face (Nant Blanc glacier) - between Grands Montets and Sans Nom ridges
  • Charpoua face (Charpoua glacier) - between Sans Nom and Moine ridges
  • South face (Talefre glacier) - between Moine and Jardin ridges
  • North face (Argentiere glacier) - between Grands Montets and Jardin ridges

1865-06-29
Aiguille Verte, ,
First ascent
E.Whymper, A.Almer & F.Biner
1903-03-15
Aiguille Verte, ,
First winter ascent
G.Hasler & C.Jossi via Whymper Couloir
North face
Steep face facing Argentiere glacier bordered by Grands Montets and Jardin ridges. Most prominent features of the face are three distinct couloir, Cordier couloir, Couturier coulooir and couloir falling from col de Armand Charlet. Couturier couloir is the easiest and most logical line.
Grands Montets Ridge. Rock, IV D; IV+, mostly III and IV, 50°; 900m 10-12h . 1925-08-10First ascentP.Dalloz, J.Logarde & M. de Ségane, 1925-08-10.
  • Rebuffat 74
  • AC vol. 2 96
  • Eberlein 1200
  • Moran 47h
Cordier Couloir. Ice, V D+; V/AI1/avg. 55°; 1000m 7-10h . 1876-07-31First ascentH.Cordier, Th.Middelmore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Anderegg, J.Jaun & A.Maurer, 1876-07-31.
  • Eberlein 1212
  • AC vol. 2 97
  • Damilano & Perroux 27d
Couturier Couloir. Ice, D-; 55°; 900m 4-8h . 1929-09-02First ascentH.B. Washburn, G. Charlet, A. Coutett & A. Devouassoux (Stofer-variant), 1929-09-02.1932-07-01First ascentM. Couturier, A. Charlet, J. Simond (direct variant), 1932-07-01.
  • Eberlein 1218
  • AC vol. 2 102
  • Rebuffat 79
  • Damilano & Perroux 27a
  • Moran 47i
North couloir of col Armand Charlet. Ice/mixed, IV D+; WI4/5; 1000m, 4-8h.
col Armand Charlet - Grande Rocheuse - col de la Grande Rocheuse. More difficult alternative to sometimes too crowded Couturier couloir.
  • Damilano & Perroux 24a
  • Eberlein 1172
Nant Blanc Face
Serious mixed face bordered by Grands Montets and Sans Nom ridges.
  • From Grands Montets lift station via Nant Blanc glacier (possibly bivouac). Bergshrund at 3200m.
Charlet-Platonov (Charlet Route). Mixed, V D+; 4c/IV, mostly III, V/AI2/58°, avg.52°; 900m 7-12h . 1935-08-22First ascentA. Charlet & D. Platonov, 1935-08-22.
  • Eberlein 1190
  • AC vol. 2 95
  • Damilano & Perroux 27h
SW Side
Between Sans Nom and Moine ridges.
  • Refuge de la Charpoua via Glacier Charpoua
Y Couloir (Couloir en Y (branche de gauche)). Mixed, IV D; IV mostly easier, IV/1/50°; 800m 6h . 1900-01-01First ascentA.F.Mummery & A.Burgener.
  • AC vol. 2 93
  • Eberlein 1185
  • Moran 47g
Sans Nom Ridge. Rock, D+; IV+ (one place), mostly IV and III; 850m 10-15h . 1926-09-21First ascentFrl.de Longchamp, A.Charlet & M.Bozan, 1926-09-21.
  • AC vol. 2 94
  • Eberlein 1187
  • Rebuffat 77
  • Moran 47f
SE Side (Talèfre)
Least intimidating side of Aiguille Verte.
  • Refuge de Couvercle Take track railway from Chamonix up to Montenvers (1876 m). From the station descent southwards and finally use ladders over slabs to reach the Mer de Glace. Take great care when crossing broad melt water gullies. Ascent first on the western edge, then move to the middle for ca. 3 km. At the junction with the Leschaux Glacier, turn left and work across to the north bank. After traversing the debris-covered ice sections and moraines (coloured metal barrels as markers), gain iron ladders that ascent the cliffs on the left (north). Climb these over a steep polished rocks, then follow the path high above the ice fall of the Glacier de Taléfre, over grass and moraine to the Couvercle Hut, placed at the foot on the historic bivouac site.
Moine Ridge. Rock/mixed, AD; sustained at II with passages of III; Hut climb from Montenvers 900m, summit climb 1450m Hut climb from Montenvers 3-4h, summit climb 6-9h . 1865-07-05First ascentG.C.Hodgkinson, Ch.Hudson, T.S.Kennedy, M.Croz, M.A.Ducroz & P.Perren, 1865-07-05.

Best when the very dry. Objectively safer than Whymper Couloir.

Normal route. Turn left at 3350 m, before reaching the Aiguille Verte, and cross the bergschrund below a conspicious, right-slanting, snow couloir at the back of a bay, right of the prominent rock pinnacle of the Cardinal. From the foot of the couloir move up ledges, heading up for about 200 m to the notch between Cardinal and Aiguille Verte (3600 m). On the ridge turn back in the direction of the Aiguille Verte. First keeping right, zig-zag up ledges and go up to the small notch of an adjacent ridge (by five-metre gendarme at the upper end of the couloir mentioned earlier). Continue up the adjacent ridge and after the ascend obloquely right over slabs and snow patches until one can see into the Whymper Couloir. Now, climb directly back to the ridge, first up a chimney gully then zig-zagging over slabs until one reaches the ridge by a less conspicious gendarme. Go up on the right side (east) of the ridge, turning a final tower on the east, to the summit. same route, Whymper Couloir, South Pillar of Grande Rocheuse .
  • Eberlein 1182
  • AC vol. 2 92
  • Goedeke pp178
  • Damilano & Perroux 27y
  • Moran 47c
Whymper Couloir. Ice, IV AD+/D-; 55°, avg.48°; Hut climb from Montenvers 900m, summit climb 620m/1450m Hut climb from Montenvers 3-4h, summit climb 6-9h . 1900-01-01First ascentFirst ascent is unknown as altough Whympers team based their route around Whymper Couloir, they traverse out of the couloir itself at around one third of the height..

Large scale snow and ice route that is best climbed during early summer, when climbers profit greatly from generous snow cover. When this is not present, ice climbing may be very hard at bergschrund (on descent this is often problematic involving a big jump or awkward abseiling). The Whymper Couloir faces south and thus warms up correspondingly quickly, so an very early start and rapid completion of the route before snow turns rotten and rock starts to fall is essential. When ice is bare, stone fall risk increases.

Normal route. From the hut take path over the moraines to the western edge of the Glacier de Taléfre. Climb the glacier in a wide arc under the rock walls of the Aiguille du Moine and the connecting pinnacle ridge to the foot of the Aiguille Verte (2 h). Beware of the crevasses, especially on the upper part of the glacier. Ascend to the uppermost part of the glacier. The couloir descents from the notch on the ridge between the Aiguille Verte and Grande Rocheuse. Cross the bergschrund on the right under the rocks of the Grande Rocheuse and first of all ascend the small parallel couloir. Then move left on to a rocky ridge and further above traverse to a side branch of the main couloir. Cross this too and then on the right (eastern) side of the main couloir ascend a rock rib. Where this runs out, move obliquely to the left and go directly up to the saddle in front of the Grande Rocheuse or continue obliquely left over mixed groud to the East Ridge which leads up (watch out for cornices) to the summit. If the snow on the couloir is already dangerous, descent either objectively less dangerous South Spur of the Grande Rochheuse (steep and difficult to locate from above) or Moine Ridge. If the couloir is preferred, wait until evening before descending hardening snow. There are some abseil points installed. .
  • Eberlein 1181
  • AC vol. 2 90
  • Rebuffat 41
  • Goedeke pp178
  • Damilano & Perroux 27x
  • Moran 47a
South Pillar. Rock, AD; Pitches of III, but mostly II; Hut climb from Montenvers 900m, summit climb 1450m Hut climb from Montenvers 3-4h, summit climb 6-9h . 1865-09-17First ascentR.Fowler, M.Balmat & M.Ducroz, 1865-09-17.

Stone-fall danger only on the lower section of the route

Normal route. Begin as for the Whymper Couloir as far as the upper end of the rock rib left of the initial couloir. Now cross the adjacent couloir on the right and go straight up the rocks of the pillar to a gendarme (3820 m). Pass this on the left (west) and 150 m higher, turn a second gendarme on the right and follow the ridge of the pillar to the steep summit wall. Keeping left at first, ascend chimneys and then move more to the right and go up to reach the summit ridge about 50 m east of the main summit. same route, Whymper Couloir, South Pillar of Grande Rocheuse .
  • AC vol. 2 91
  • Goedeke pp183
  • Moran 47b
South couloir of col Armand Charlet. Mixed, AD+; 1500m, 8-9,5h.
col Armand Charlet - Grande Rocheuse - col de la Grande Rocheuse.
  • Moran 47e
  • Eberlein 1171
Jardin ridge (East ridge). Mixed, D-; IV; 1550m, 9-11,5h.
Aiguille Jardin - col Armand Charlet - Grande Rocheuse - col de la Grande Rocheuse.
  • Moran 47d
Les Droites4000
North face
One of the most famous north faces in the Alps. Most difficult north face from Argentiere glacier.
  • Refugio d'Argentière
NE Spur (North-East Spur, Éperon Tournier). Mixed, TD/TD+/Rus 4B(?); 5c/V, mostly IV and III, V/4+/Sco IV/V/70°; 1100m 12-15h . 1937-07-21First ascentC.Authenac & F.Tournier, 1937-07-21.1963-03-11First ascentM.Gryczynski, J.Michalski, J.Stryczinski & J.Warteresiewics, 1963-03-11.
  • Eberlein 1151
  • AC vol. 2 71
  • Rebuffat 82
  • Damilano & Perroux 22d
Cornuau-Davaille (North Face Classic). Mixed, V ED1; IV/4+/Sco IV-V/70°, avg.60°, 5c,A1/V,A1; 1050m 10-20h . 1955-09-10First ascentPh.Conuau & M.Davaille, 1955-09-10.
  • Eberlein 1141
  • AC vol. 2 75
  • Rebuffat 99
  • Damilano & Perroux 22g
Voie Jackson (Breche des Droites Couloir). Mixed, V ED2; V/WI5+/Sco V/90°, constantly 60°-80°; 1050m 12-20h . 1978-07-24First ascentJ.Ginat, G.Modica, J-P. Siman & J-M.Troussier, 1978-07-24.
  • Eberlein 1142
  • AC vol. 2 76
  • Damilano & Perroux 22k
La Ginat. IV ED1; IV/WI5/Sco V,5; 1050m.
Couloir Lagarde (Lagarde Couloir). IV TD; IV/5/Sco IV/avg. 54°; 1050m.
South side
South Ridge. Mixed, III AD; III, mostly easier; 600m 6-7h from the hut . 1876-08-07First ascentH.Cordier, Th.Middlemore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Jaun & A.Maurer, 1876-08-07.
  • AC vol. 2 65
  • Eberlein 1131
  • Goedeke pp185
East West Traverse. Mixed, AD; III, mostly easier; 900m round trip from Refugio de Couvercle not under 15h . 1905-08-15First ascentE.Fontaine, Jean ravanel & Léon Tournier, 1905-08-15.
  • Eberlein 1134
Col des Droites3733
North side
Ainsi Soit-Il. Ice, TD+; VI/4/85°; 1000m.
South side
Les Courtes3856
Popular peak. NE slope is moderate classic while north face is one of the most famous north faces in Mont Blanc area. Swiss route is likely the most popular big ice route in the area.
South side
Traverse of Main Ridge. Mixed, III PD+/AD; 45°, II; 1170m 9h round trip from Couvercle Hut . 1897-08-17First ascentO.Schuster & A.Swaine (West - North-West Ridge), 1897-08-17.1904-07-11First ascentE Fontaine, J Ravanel & L Tournier (South-East Ridge), 1904-07-11.
  • AC vol. 2 54
  • Rebuffat 38
  • Laroche & Lelong 25
  • Eberlein 1101, #1119
South-South-West Buttress. Rock, PD; 700m . 1927-09-10First ascentT.Graham Brown & F.Smythe, 1927-09-10.
  • AC vol. 2 55
North face
Very popular north face. Easier than the north face of the neighboring Les Droites.
  • Refugio d'Argentière Descend from Rerugio d'Argentière to the Glacier d'Argentière. Cross the glacier to reach the East-North-East Spur (2940m) that comes down from Aiguille Chevanier (little over 1 h).
Austrian Route (Voie des Autrichiens). Ice, III D+/TD-; III/AI1/Sco II-III; 800m 7-9h . 1961-08-01First ascentH.Drachsler & W.Gstrein, 1961-08.
Interesting and sustained ice climbing classic on the left hand side of the face. Considered by some to be more worthwhile than the more famous and more difficult Swiss route. Objectively safe.
  • AC vol. 2 59
  • Damilano & Perroux 20g
Swiss Route (Voie des Suisses). Ice, IV TD-; IV/3+/Sco III-IV (3 pitches)/avg.54°; 800m 8-10h . 1938-07-31First ascentC.Carnaz & R.Mathey, 1938-07-31.
  • Eberlein 1106
  • AC vol. 2 60
  • Rebuffat 94
  • Damilano & Perroux 20h
NE Slope. Snow/ice, III AD; III/AD/50° (avg. 48°)°; 850m, total 1100m 5-6h . 1930-08-12First ascentP.Chevalier & G.Labour, 1930-08-12.

One of the most popular routes on Argentière side. Early start essential as sun hits the face in the morning.

Descend from Rerugio d'Argentière to the Glacier d'Argentière. Cross the glacier to reach the East-North-East Spur (2940m) that comes down from Aiguille Chevanier (little over 1 h). Keeping to the right of the spur, cross the bergschrund, which can sometimes be the key point of the route. Above it, climb uniformly 45° steep firn face (in the upper part up to 50°) to the ridge and follow it to the summit. From time to time the initial slope has developed difficult serac barriers and it has then been necessary to climb East-North-East buttress on the left. 4-7h from the Hut, total of 1100m ascent. In very good snow conditions the ascent route can be used for descent. Classic descent follows the summit ridge over west summit and descending to the Col de la Tour des Courtes (3720m). From there over the maximaly 45° steep firn slope. In south-western direction down to the Glacier de Talèfre (avalanche danger). Cross the flat glacier to the Refugio de Couvercle (2687m, 3-6 hours from the summit). .
  • Eberlein 1111
  • AC vol. 2 56
  • Rebuffat 29
  • Damilano & Perroux 20c
Cordier Route. Mixed, AD/D; 50°, II; 850m 6-8h . 1876-08-04First ascentH.Cordier, T.Middlemore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Anderegg, J.Jaun & A.Maure, 1876-08-04.
  • AC vol. 2 57
  • Damilano & Perroux 20d
Col des Cristaux3601
Aiguille Mummery3700
Aiguille Ravanel3696
Col des Courtes

Les Drus

Pointe Croux
Aiguille Sans Nom3982
Pic Sans Nom3791
Grande Dru3753
North face
Couloir Nord des Drus (Drucouloir). Ice/mixed, V ED1; V/WI5/80°, 5c,A1-2; 750m 10-20h . 1900-01-01First ascentWalter Cecchinel & Claude Jaeger.
  • AC vol. 2 145
  • Eberlein 1300
  • Damilano & Perroux 30a
Petit Dru3750
West face
One of the most famous alpine big walls. Some of the classic routs have been destroyed by major rock fall.
  • Charpoua Hut
South Flank and South-West Ridge of Petit Dru. Rock, D-; VI+ and III; 400m 6-7h . 1879-08-29First ascentJ.Charlet-Stratton, P.Payot & F.Folliguet, 1879-08-29.
  • AC vol. 2 131
  • Eberlein 1252
Bonatti Pillar. Rock, TD+/ED+ (free); VI,1/7a/VIII/VIII-; 600m . 1955-01-01First ascentW. Bonatti (solo), 1955.
4b, 5b, 6a, 4b, 4c, 4c, 5c, 6a, 5b, 6b, 6c, 5c, 6a, 7a, 4c, 5b, 4b, 5b, 6a, 5c.
  • AC vol. 2 133
  • Eberlein 1270
  • Rebuffat 92
American Direct. Rock, ED1; 6c,A0/5.10+,A0/VI,A0/VII; 1000m . 1952-01-01First ascentL. Bérardini, A. Dagorie, M. Lainé & G. Magnone, 1952.1962-01-01First ascentG. Hemming & R. Robbins, 1962.
5c, 5c, 5b, 5c, 4b, 4b, 5c, 5c, 6b, 5c, 5c, 6b, 6b, 5c, 4b, 5b, 5c, 4c, //, 4c, 6c, 6c, A0, 5c, 5c, 5b, 6a, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5c, 4b.
  • AC vol. 2 138
  • Eberlein 1287
  • Rebuffat 98
American Directissima. Rock, ED3; A3/A4/7a+,A0/VIII/VIII+,A0; 600m . 1965-01-01First ascentJohn Harlin & Royal Robbins, 1965.
3, 5b, 4b, 5c, 6b/A0, 6c, 5b, 6c, 7a, 6b/c, 6c, 6c, 7a+, 6b, 6b/c, 6b/c, 6a, 6c, 6b, 6a, 5c, 3.
  • AC vol. 2 136
  • Eberlein 1284
North face
Original. TD; V+; 850m.
NW face
NW face. Rus 6B.

Aiguille Moine - Aiguille Verte

Aiguille du Moine3412
La Nonne3340
L'Évêque3469
Le Cardinal3647

Aiguille Triolet - Grandes Jorasses

Col du Triolet3703
Pointe Isabella3761
Col du Piolet
Pointe des Papillons
Col de Talèfre3554
Aiguille Savoie3603
Aiguille de Talèfre3730
Col de Pierre Joseph
Aiguille de l'Eboulement3599
Col de Leschaux3433
Aiguille de Leschaux3759
Petites Jorasses3650
PD+.
South ridge
South ridge. D-; V; 400m.
West face
West Face Original. TD; VI+; 700m.
Pointe de Frébouzie
Pointes des Hirondelles3524
Col des Hirondelles3480
Starting point of classic Hirondelles ridge.

Talèfre - Pierre á Berge

Petite Aiguille Talèfre3605
Aiguille de Pierre Joseph3361

Aiguille de Leschaux - Monte Gruetta

Petit Mont Gruette3226
Mont Gruette3684

Col des Hirondelles - Col du Geant

Grandes Jorasses - Dent du Géant

Grandes Jorasses4208
  • Point Walker (East Summit) (4208m)
  • Point Whymper (West Summit) (4184m)
  • Point Croz (4110m)
  • Pointe Marguerita (4066m)
  • Pointe Hélène (4045m)
  • Pointe Young (3996m)
1900-01-01
Grandes Jorasses, 1865-06-24 Point Whymper,
First ascent
1865-06-24 Point Whymper: Edward Whymper, M. Croz, C. Almer & F. Biner. The party chose not to go to Point Walker, as the ascent was made primarily as reconnaissance for conquest of the Aiguille Verte.
1900-01-01
Grandes Jorasses, 1868-06-30 Point Walker,
First ascent
1868-06-30 Point Walker: H. Walker, M. Anderegg, J. Jaun & J. Grange
North face
One of the biggest and most famous north faces in the Alps. There is host of classic routes, mostly on ice and mixed ground.
Hirondelles Ridge. Rock/mixed, D/D+; 5c,A1/V+ (20m, mostly III and IV); 750m 6-8h . 1927-08-10First ascentG. Gaia, S. Matteoda, F. Ravelli, G. Rivetti, A. Rey & A. Chenoz, 1927-08-10.
Classic routes starting at col des Hirondelles.
  • Eberlein 945
  • AC vol. 1 57
  • Rebuffat 66
  • Damilano & Perroux 38a
The Shroud (Linceul, Leichentuch). Ice, IV TD+/Rus 5A-6A; IV/4/Sco IV/75°-80°, avg.60°; 750m . 1968-01-26First ascentRené Desmaison & R. Flematty, 1968-01-26.
Classic ice route on the left part of thge face. Joiuns Hirondelles ridge for the upper part of the climb. Easier than the routes on NF proper.
  • Eberlein 940
  • AC vol. 1 55
  • Damilano & Perroux 38l
Croz Spur. Mixed, TD+; V+, 60°. 1935-06-29First ascentM. Meier and R. Peters, 1935-06-29.
  • Eberlein 926
  • AC vol. 1 48
  • Rebuffat 96
Walker Spur. Mixed, ED1/G13/Rus 5B; VI-,A1/VII- (often VI, VI- and V+), 60°; 1200m, length 1800m 12-15h . 1939-08-06First ascentRiccardo Cassin, L. Esposito & U. Tizzon, 1939-08-06.
  • Eberlein 928
  • AC vol. 1 43
  • Rebuffat 97
Directe de l'Amitie. ED3/4; VI,A2/3.
  • AC vol. 1 50
Colton-McIntyre (British Route). Ice/mixed, VI ED3; VI/WI5 AI3 M6/90°, A3; 1200m.
  • Eberlein 936
  • Damilano & Perroux 38n
  • Lowe pp231
  • AC vol. 1 52
Couloir des Japonais. Ice/mixed, VI ED3; VI/WI6, 6a,A1/A2; 1200m.
  • Damilano & Perroux 38p
No Siesta. ED2/3/Rus 6A; VI WI6, 6a,A1/2/VI M8+, 6a,A1/2; 1200m.
South side
SW side via Pointe Whymper. Mixed, IV AD-; IV/AD/45, 3c/III (occasionally), mostly II; Hut climb 1200m, summit climb 1400m Hut climb 4h, summit climb 6-7h . 1865-06-24First ascentEdward Whymper, M.Croz, C.Almer & F.Biner, 1865-06-24.

Most popular means of ascent and descent. Objectively much safer than Direct route to Pointe Walker. In the snow basin below summit avalanche and ice fall danger. Othervise customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.

Normal route. From the hut go over the debris and snow to the rock ridge which separates Glacier Planpincieux and the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses. Ascend snow on the left (north) under these rocks (on the eastern edge of the Glacier de Planpincieux). From the upper end of the rock ridge, keeping somewhat left (north) go up the very crevased glacier, for about 300 meters to the lower end of the Rocher du Reposir (11/2 hours from the hut) a spur of Pointe Hélène. Climb the ridge on good holds(II and some III), usually excactly on its knife-edge, to its upper end (3 h from the hut). After crossing the glacier arm, continue directly up the rock rib (Rocher Whymper). Gain the crest of the rib and follow it on the easy broken rock , with few pitches of III to Pointe Whymper and from there reach the highest point by the summit ridge. Even when the rock is dry this way is more difficult, but takes about the same time (or slightly longer). It is objectively safer as one avoids ice-fall danger. Route finding is also easier, which makes this a better choice for descent. 6-7 hours from the hut, 5 hours for the descent. same route .
  • Eberlein 912
  • AC vol. 1 42
  • Rebuffat 23
  • Goedeke pp
  • Laroche & Lelong 52
South-West Side Direct to Pointe Walker. AD-; 50°, II and occasionally III; Hut climb 1200m, summit climb 1400m Hut climb 4h, summit climb 6-7h . 1868-06-03First ascentH.Walker, M.Anderegg, J.Jaun & J.Grang, 1868-06-03.

mixed. First ascent route. Shortest and fastest (5-6 h) way to the summit, though seriously threatened by the seracs. Crevassed glacier. In the snow basin below summit avalanche and ice fall danger. Othervise customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.

From the hut go over the debris and snow to the rock ridge which separates Glacier Planpincieux and the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses. Ascend snow on the left (north) under these rocks (on the eastern edge of the Glacier de Planpincieux). From the upper end of the rock ridge, keeping somewhat left (north) go up the very crevased glacier, for about 300 meters to the lower end of the Rocher du Reposir (11/2 hours from the hut) a spur of Pointe Hélène. Climb the ridge on good holds(II and some III), usually excactly on its knife-edge, to its upper end (3 h from the hut). Traverse the steep glacier arm to the right (often threatened by avalanches in new snow or rotten afternoon snow) to the broad rock rib (Rocher Whymper) which descents from Pointe Whymper. Climb this, keeping left of the wildly disrupted Jorasses Glacier, up a sort of gully until one can traverse right into the flat glacier trough (for about 100 meters). Traverse swiftly eastwards (ice cliffs above and ice debris in the trough emphasise the urgency). Move up the snow slope right of the ice cliffs and finally gain the ridge a little to the right of Pointe Walker (keeping respectful distance from the cornices overhanging to the right) which leads directly to the summit of Pointe Walker. 5-6 hours from the hut, 4 hours in the descent. Descend only possible when snow is hard. South-West Side via Pointe Whymper .
  • Eberlein 911
  • AC vol. 1 43
  • Goedeke pp188
  • Laroche & Lelong 52
South-West Side via Pointe Croz. AD-; 45°, III; Hut climb 1200m, summit climb 1400m Hut climb 4h, summit climb 7-8h . 1909-08-24First ascentE.Hasencliver, W.Klemn, F.Konig & R.Weitsenbuck, 1909-08-24.

mixed. Although longer than preceding routes, this is by far the safest as it avoids the traverse across the snow slope right of the Rocher Reposoir if it is avalanche-prone. Customary crevasse danger and big cornices on the summit ridge.

From the hut go over the debris and snow to the rock ridge which separates Glacier Planpincieux and the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses. Ascend snow on the left (north) under these rocks (on the eastern edge of the Glacier de Planpincieux). From the upper end of the rock ridge, keeping somewhat left (north) go up the very crevased glacier, for about 300 meters to the lower end of the Rocher du Reposir (11/2 hours from the hut) a spur of Pointe Hélène. Climb the ridge on good holds(II and some III), usually excactly on its knife-edge, to its upper end (3 h from the hut). On reaching the top of the Rocher de Reposoir climb straight up the edge of the snow slope above and continue on easy snow-covered rocks to the west ridge a little below Pointe Croz. Follow the West ridge over Pointe Croz and Pointe Whymper to the summit. 7-8 hours from the hut. South-West Side via Pointe Whymper .
  • AC vol. 1 44
West Ridge. Mixed, D; IV, mostly II; 400m 8h . 1911-08-14First ascentG.W.Young, H.O.Jones & J.Knubel, 1911-08-14.
  • Eberlein 915
Calotte de Rochefort3981
Mont Mallet3989
South ridge
South Ridge from Aiguille de Rochefort. Mixed, PD; II; 80m 1h . 1871-09-04First ascentLeslie Stephen, G.Loppe, F.A.Wallroth, M.Anderegg, Ch. & A.Tournier, 1871-09-04.
  • Eberlein 895
  • AC vol. 1 17
North ridge
North Ridge from Glacier des Périades. Mixed, AD; 45°-50°, III; 500m 6-7h from Refuge du Requin . 1882-07-31First ascentP.Perret, F.Simond & E.Cupelin, 1882-07-31.
  • Eberlein 896
  • AC vol. 1 18
  • Damilano & Perroux 48a
Col des Grandes Jorasses3825
There's a bivouac hut in the col.
Dome de Rochefort4015
Higher than Aiguille de Rochefort but much less popular. Climbed almost solely as part of the complete Rochefort arete or traverse of the whole Jorasses - Rochefort -chain from Col des Hirondelles to Col du Geant.
Aiguille de Rochefort4001
Rochefort ridge (Rochefort Arete, Arete de Rochefort)
Traverse of Arete de Rochefort from Col du Géant. Mixed, III AD/Rus 3B-4A; III/AI1°/45°, II and I; ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, 450m, ridge length 2500m 9-10h from refugio Torino to Col des Grandes Jorasses, descent from there to Montenvers 5-7-h/to Val Ferret 6-7h. . 1900-07-18First ascentE. Allegra, L. Croux, P. Dayne & A. Bocherd in descent, 1900-07-18.1903-08-09First ascentK. Blodig & P. Marten, 1903-08-09.

Very impressive classic snow and ice ridge on the foot of mighty Dent du Géant. Main difficulty are the picturesque cornices on both sides. Partially very narrow and exposed.

Normal route. From Torino Hut cross to the Col du Géant (3365m) and head north-eastwards round the rock spur of the Aiguilles Marbrées into the wide snow basin under the Col de Rochefort. Past this col and continue in the same direction up to the base of the prominent Aiguille du Géant. First of all, climb the snow couloir (excellent glissading potential durind descent) to the foot of a distinct gendarme. It is also possible to climb on the left of s couloir on the easy rocks. From there move across and climb on the right couloir, up to the broad main ridge. Move up the ridge turning gendarme on the right (east) to gain the Salle á Manger (breakfast place) below the South Face of the Deant du Géant (2-3 hours from the hut). From Salle á Manger starts the actual Arête. Climb on ridge to middle summit (3933m). On the other side descent steeply on snow and follow shard ridge to the final rocks of Aiguille de Rochefort. Traverse to right to a vague couloir and climb steeply up on somewhat loose rock with big holds (II). The right route might be a bit hard to find. It is also possible to climb directly up from the ridge (II-III). Continue further along the ridge to Dome de Rochefort and further to Col des Grandes Jorasses. .Rifugio Torino
  • AC vol. 1 15
  • Eberlein 891
  • Damilano & Perroux 49d
East-West Traverse of Arete de Rochefort. Mixed, D; IV, mostly II and I; Total 600m, Ridge 2,5km 10-12h from bivouac to Col du Géant . 1937-08-04First ascentJ.u.R.Leininger & P.Mazeaud, 1937-08-04.
  • Eberlein 890
NE face
Glacier de Leschaux
Dent du Géant4013
Very sharp needle, well visible and easy to recognise. One of the airiest 4000m peaks. Ascent is made less intimidating by thick fixed ropes on SW face. Can be combined with traverse of Rochefort ridge in a single day trip from Torino hut.
1900-01-01
Dent du Géant, ,
First ascent
After the failure of such climbing legends as A.F.Mummery, rockets were used to shoot rope over the summit as a climbing aid. These attemps however did not succeed.
1900-01-01
Dent du Géant, ,
First free ascent
1900 Austrians Heinrich Pfannl, Thomas Maischhberger and Franz Zimmer via North Ridge.
South side
SW Face. Rock, III AD-/D (free); III,A0/5.7,A0/4c/V+; ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, summit block 180m ascent to the Sella á Manger 2-3h, summit block 1h . 1882-07-28First ascentB.,D. & J.Maquignaz with conventional style, although with massive use of aid climbing., 1882-07-28.

A classic climb of moderate difficulty. The route is equipped with fixed ropes. It's wort taking some tape slings for belaying on the ropes and their huge anchor pegs. Objectively safe. Some open crevasses on Glacier du Géant.

Normal route. From Torino Hut cross to the Col du Géant (3365m) and head north-eastwards round the rock spur of the Aiguilles Marbrées into the wide snow basin under the Col de Rochefort. Past this col and continue in the same direction up to the base of the prominent Aiguille du Géant. First of all, climb the snow couloir (excellent glissading potential durind descent) to the foot of a distinct gendarme. It is also possible to climb on the left of s couloir on the easy rocks. From there move across and climb on the right couloir, up to the broad main ridge. Move up the ridge turning gendarme on the right (east) to gain the Salle á Manger (breakfast place) below the South Face of the Deant du Géant (2-3 hours from the hut). From Salle á Manger. Descend a little and traverse mixed ground to the left to the south west edge. On a detached slab move left to the edge and up it a few metres to a piton. Then traverse 10 meters to the left to a shallow gully (peg). Up this 30 meters to a terrace. Climb the beautiful gold-brown slabs above (Plague Burgener), which are disfigured by thick hemp ropes. These lead to a good stance on the left (west) edge. Now traverse right and climb two chimneys (peg, ropes). Continue up walls and polished steps, always following the sweat, scratches and hemp tp the fore-summit (Pointe Sella). Make an exposed descent north-west down a short of chimney into a notch and up a crack to the main summit (Pointe Graham; Madonna). same route .Rifugio Torino
  • Eberlein 861
  • AC vol. 1 5
  • Rebuffat 33
  • Goedeke pp195
  • Laroche & Lelong 24
South Face. Rock, TD; V+, A1, mostly V and A0, seldom easier/Free propably VII-; ascent to the Sella á Manger 550m, 130m ascent to the Sella á Manger 2-3h, summit block 3h . 1935-07-28First ascentH.Burggasser & R.Leist, 1935-07-28.1956-03-14First ascentFA in winter: M.May & U.Prato, 1956-03-14.
From Torino Hut cross to the Col du Géant (3365m) and head north-eastwards round the rock spur of the Aiguilles Marbrées into the wide snow basin under the Col de Rochefort. Past this col and continue in the same direction up to the base of the prominent Aiguille du Géant. First of all, climb the snow couloir (excellent glissading potential durind descent) to the foot of a distinct gendarme. It is also possible to climb on the left of s couloir on the easy rocks. From there move across and climb on the right couloir, up to the broad main ridge. Move up the ridge turning gendarme on the right (east) to gain the Salle á Manger (breakfast place) below the South Face of the Deant du Géant (2-3 hours from the hut). .Rifugio Torino
  • AC vol. 1 12
  • Eberlein 863
  • Rebuffat 57
Col du Géant3365
Easily accessible with lifts both from Aiguille du Midi and Chamonix or Courmayeur. Torino hut located here is important base for climbers providing access to Rochefort arete, Dent du Geant, Tour Ronde, Aiguille Blanche, Grand Pilier d'Angle, Brenve faces of Mont Blanc and Mont Maudit, Circue Maudit and East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Mont Mallet - Capucin du Tacul

Les Périades3460
Capucin du Tacul3130
Aiguille du Tacul3444

Chamonix Aiguilles

Groupe Charmoz - Grepon

Aiguille de l'M2844
NNe ridge
NNe ridge. II D-; 5b/IV+/5.7; 240m.
F.
Aiguille de Roc3409
Aiguilles des Grands Charmoz3445
North face
North face. Mixed, TD; V/M4+/Sco V,6/65°; 900m.
Aiguilles des Petits Charmoz2867
Aiguille de Grépon3482
Tour Rouge2899
Le Marchhand de Sable. Rock, TD+/II 6a+; 300m. 1983-07-20First ascentGérard Hopfgartner & Michel Piola, 1983-07-20.
  • Batoux #17
Tour Verte2760

Groupe de Blaitière

Aiguille de Blaitière3507
Spencer couloir. III AD/AD+; Sco I/avg. 51°; 300m.
Facette NE. III TD-; III/3/70°, 4a; 300m.
Aiguille du Fou3501
South face
voie Classique. Rock, ED2/3; VII,A2/VIII+/7b/c; 350m . 1963-07-26First ascentT. Frost, S. Fulton, J. Harlin & G. Hemming, 1963-07-26.1983-07-16First ascentE.Escoffier & T.Renault, 1983-07-16.
6c, 7b/c, 7a/b, 6b, 5c, 6b, 6b, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6b/c, 5c.
  • AC vol. 2 107
  • Eberlein 665
  • Rebuffat 93
  • Piola 47
voie Classique (free). Rock, ABO/ED5; VIII+/7b/c; 350m . 1963-07-26First ascentT. Frost, S. Fulton, J. Harlin & G. Hemming, 1963-07-26.1983-07-16First ascentE.Escoffier & T.Renault, 1983-07-16.
6c, 7b/c, 7a/b, 6b, 5c, 6b, 6b, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6b/c, 5c.
  • AC vol. 2 107
  • Eberlein 665
  • Rebuffat 93
  • Piola 47
Normal Route from Aiguille de Blatière. Mixed, AD+; V (few meters, mostly II and III). 1901-07-16First ascentE.Fontaine, Jo.& Je.Ravanel, 1901-07-16.
  • Eberlein 861
Aiguille des Ciseaux3479
Pointe du Lepiney3429

Groupe du Plan

Aiguilles des Pélerins3318
North face
Rebuffat-Terray (Carrington-Rouse). Mixed, IV ED2; IV/WI5 M6/Sco VI,6; 550m.
Beyond Good and Evil. V ED2/3; V WI5+>/Sco VII,7, 5c,A1/2.
Aiguille du Peigne3192
SW face
Voie Contamine (Contamine-Vaucher). III TD/nccs IV 5.10a; 6a/5c,A0; 400m.
Aiguille du Plan3673
North face
Lagarde-Segogne couloir. IV TD/TD+; IV/WI4/Sco IV/avg. 64°, 5c; 900m.
North Face Direct. IV TD-; IV/D/60°, 4c/IV; 1000m.
South side
PD.
West side
Midi-Plan traverse. III AD-; Sco II/40°, 3; 200m.
East side
Ryan-Lochmatter Ridge (East Ridge). D/D+; IV+/5.6; 550m.
Dent du Crocodile3640
PD.
East Ridge
East Ridge. TD; V; 520m.
Dent du Requin3422
AD.
North face
North Face Original. TD; V,A1; 700m.
Pain de Sucre
North face
Classic ice face
  • AC vol 2 36
  • Rebuffat 48
Col du Plan
North side
Couloir Col du Plan. Ice, III D; III/AI1/Sco III/55°; 600m.

Aiguille du Midi

Aiguille du Midi3842
South face
Short rock routes, mostly very difficult.
  • Col du Midi
Ma Dalton. Rock, ABO-/nccs V 5.12c; 7b+/IX-/V,A1; 120m.
Contamine. Rock, ED+; VIII-.
Rebuffat. Rock, TD+; VI+.
Rebuffart-Pierre. Rock, D; VI-.
North face
There are several spurs and couloir on the north face. Best known climb on the face is ultra classic Frendo Spur. Some of the couloirs are famous test pieces for extreme skiers during the winter.
  • Aiguille du Midi telepherique middle station
Eugster Direct. Mixed/ice,
Mallory Couloir (Voie Mallory-Porter). Ice/mixed, AD+; 60°, 4a/IV; 1000m . 1919-08-05First ascentG.L.Mallory & H.E.L.Porter, 1919-08-05.
  • Eberlein 551
  • Damilano & Perroux 62n
Frendo Spur. III D+/Rus 4A-B; III WI4/80°, IV/5.7; 1100m 6-8h . 1941-07-11First ascentE.Frendo & R.Rionda, 1941-07-11.
  • Eberlein 541
  • AC vol. 2 15
  • Rebuffat 62
  • Damilano & Perroux 62i
Cosmiques Ridge
Traverse of Cosmiques Ridge from Col du Midi to Aiguille du Midi is moderate classic and very easily accessible. Correspondingly crowded. Short crux of IV+ (6m), mostly II with few points of III.
  • Col du Midi
Arete des Cosmiques. II PD+/AD-; Sco III, 4c/5.6/IV+/III,A0; 250m 2-4h . 1910-08-03First ascentG. & F.Finch, 1910-08-03.
  • Eberlein 533
  • AC vol. 2 1
  • Piola 1
  • Damilano & Perroux 63b
Goulotte Cascade des Cosmiques. III/WI5; 200m.
Eperon du Cosmiques.

Mont Blanc Massif

Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc du Tacul4248
Very popular peak, both north and East faces are easily accessible from Aiguille du Midi cable car.
North face
Glacier slope very easily accessed either from Aiguille du Midi telepherique or Cosmiques hut. Most commonly climbed as part or Three Mont Blanc route.
North-West Face. Glacier, II/PD-/G2-3/Rus 2A; II/AI1/40°; 700m 2,5-3h . 1855-08-08First ascentHudson-Kennedy party, 1855-08-08.

The NW Face is a great, moderately steep glacier route finishing with easy rock scrambling to a pointy summit.

Normal route. same route .
  • AC vol I 189
  • Eberlein 321
  • Rebuffat 17
  • Goedeke pp198
  • Damilano & Perroux 65c
Tringle du Tacul (North face Tringle)
North face triangle has several routes leading from Col du Midi to the top of the Triangle at 3970m. From there it is possible to continue to the summit and descent via normal route. However, some climbers choose to abseil down from the end of difficulties.
Chèré Couloir (Chére Couloir, Goulotte Chèré). Ice, II D+/II WI4; II/WI4/Sco IV/85°; 350m, 3-4h to the top of the Triangle. 1973-08-18First ascentR.Chérè & J.Tranchant, 1973-08-18.1975-02-01First ascentR.Ghilini & B.Pasche, 1975-02.

Ice couloir on the right-hand part of the triangle. Crux pitches are short and steep and are equipped with bolts.

Classic. Climb the two pitch of easily recognizable ice slope (45°-50° into couloir on the right of the face. One rope length (50°-75°) leads to key part of the route: 4th rope length 85°,70°,50° (a couple of rock pitons in situ). Fifth pitch (60°,70°,80°) leads to flatter mixed climbing. From good belay stands (partly drilled pitons) it is always possible to abseil. The route leads over 5 mixed pitches (up to II, 50°) to the top of Triangle du tacul (3970m) and over adjacent firn ridge to the main summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m). 4-8 hours. Descent over normal route (North West side). 85° (one place), 70° (1 pitch), otherwise 50°-60°. .
  • AC vol I 225
  • Eberlein 323
  • Damilano & Perroux 66b
Contamine-Grisolle. Ice/mixed, II AD; II/AI2/Sco II/III/65°, 5.6; 400 from bergschrund to the top of the triangle (P 3970), further 280m to the summit approach 1h, face to the summit 4h, descend to Aiguille du Midi 2-3h . 1968-07-04First ascentG. Gren, G. Grisolle, A. Poulain, M. Ziegler & A. Contamine, 1968-07-04.

Easiest route on the North face triangle. Sustained mixed climbing with slopes of 45-50° and a short ice couloir of 65° (ice grade II). Runs on the left-hand part of the actual triangle, joins Contamine Negri on the left-hand rand of the triangle at about 2/3 of the height.

The route follows the slope/couloir (45-50°) on the left of the rock spur around 150m to the foot of red rock tower. There are good belays (pitons and slings) on the rocks. Climb up to the shoulder and round the steep rock barrier on the right along ice couloirs and mixed terrain (60m, good belays with slings). Turn to the left for ca. 50m on the easier mixed ridge. Follow the snow slope (35/40°, 60m) diagonal to the right to the foot of the last rock barrier. Climb though ice couloir (65°, ice grade II) and mixed terrain on the left of the rocks. Follow the snow slope to the top of Triangle (P 3970, 3h). From there along the North Ridge (cornices) to the normal route and further to the summit (1h from the top of Triangle, 5h from Aiguille du Midi). Descend along the normal route (2-3h to the Aiguille du Midi). .Cosmiques Hut, téléphérique station Aiguille du Midi
  • AC vol I 221
  • Laroche & Lelong 39
  • Damilano & Perroux 66k
Contamine-Mazeaud. Ice/mixed, II AD+; II WI2/Sco III/65°, IV; 350m from bergschrund to the top of the triangle (P 3970), further 280m to the summit approach 1h, face to the summit 4h, descend to Aiguille du Midi 2-3h . 1963-07-21First ascentA. Contamine & P. Mazeaud, 1963-07-21.

The Contamine Mazeaud is the most central route of the triangle. Interesting, varied and popular ice climbing classic. A mixed route featuring steep snow and ice, as well as easy rock scrambling. Technically easier than the Chèré Couloir, though much longer and more exposed. Has "big" climb feeling, thus a great introduction to mixed climbing on big mountains. No bolts.

During the first rope length, keep left. Then go straight on and traverse to the right with the third rope length to mixed ground. Now you need still 4 rope lengths in order to traverse slightly to the right side so that you meet the Chèrécouloir at the end. Pitch 1: 50m, 50°, pitch 2: 45m, 50°/55°/65° (short passage),pitch 3: 50°, pitches 4-7: 50°/55°. Then you can go to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul in 1 h. Descend alond the normal route (2-3h to the Aiguille du Midi). Abseil down through the Chèrécouloir .
  • AC vol I 223
  • Eberlein 325
  • Damilano & Perroux 66h
Contamine-Negri (North Couloir). Ice, - IV AD-; 350m . 1962-08-05First ascentP. Labrume, J. Martin, M. Negri & A. Contamine, 1962-08-05.

Ice line running more or less along the left-hand rand of the triangle.

Climb directly the couloir between the hanging glacier and the left edge of the rocky triangle. Descend alond the normal route (2-3h to the Aiguille du Midi). .
  • AC vol I 220
  • Damilano & Perroux 66m
Voie Diagonal (Hanging Glacier). Ice, - AD-; 350m from bergschrund to the top of the trianle (P 3970), further 280m to the summit approach 1h, descend to Aiguille du Midi 2-3h . 1969-08-08First ascentC. Cassin, G. Menard, R. Girod, J. Méchoud, A. Faure, J. Luc & A. Contamine, 1969-08-08.
Ice route on the hanging glacier to the left of North face Triangle.
  • Damilano & Perroux 66n
East face
Broad face with several classic climbs, mostly on ice or mixed ground.
Voie de Nuit. Mixed, 450m. 1997-03-09First ascentRobert Jasper & Daniela Klindt, 1997-03-09.
Modica-Noury. Ice, III TD; III/WI5+; 250/500m. 1979-06-24First ascentGilles Modica & Antoine Noury, 1979-06-24.
Classic. Modern classic. Ice line on the right part of the face.
  • Damilano & Perroux 67c
Albinoni-Gabarrou. Ice, III TD-/TD; III/WI4+/85°; 600m.
Shares the bottom part with Modica-Noury, upper part takes the easier couloir on the left of Modica-Noury.
  • Damilano & Perroux 67d
Jaeger Couloir. Ice, II D; 60°; 600m/1000m, 5-7h. 1964-06-12First ascentPierre Barthélemy & Claude Jager, 1964-06-12.
Somewhat more difficult but much safer than more prominent neighbour Gervasutti couloir.
  • Damilano & Perroux 67g
  • Moran 40c
Voie du Nuit. Ice, IV M8-; 450m.
Gervasutti Couloir. Ice, 700m 2-6h . 1900-01-01First ascentleft hand finish: R.Chabod & G.Gervasutti.1900-01-01First ascentright hand finish: L.Lachenal & L.Terray.1900-01-01First ascentA.Marchioni, L.Mazzaniga, A.Mellano, R.Perego, G.Ribaldone & A.Risso.
Most prominent ice couloir on the face. Unfortunately seriously endangered by stone and ice fall and avalanches. Descend alond the normal route (2-3h to the Aiguille du Midi).
  • AC vol I 210
  • Eberlein 335
  • Rebuffat 59
  • Damilano & Perroux 67h, #66i
Diable Ridge. D+; IV+, 35°; 600m 11-13h from Torino Hut . 1928-08-04First ascentM.O'Brien, R.Underhill, A.Charlet & G.Gachet, 1928-08-04.
  • AC vol I 190
  • Moran 40d
Gervasutti Pillar. Rock/mixed, IV TD; VI+ one place/A0, mostly V, V+ and VI-; 800m 7-10h . 1951-07-30First ascentP.Fonelli & G.Mauro, 1951-07-30.
  • AC vol I 203
  • Eberlein 338
  • Rebuffat 86
Supercouloir. Ice/mixed, IV ED2; IV/WI4/Sco IV-V/85°; 800m 8-10h .
Classic. Classic ice route located to the left of Gervasutti Pillar.
  • AC vol I 201
  • Eberlein 340
  • Lowe pp235
Supercouloir Direct. Ice/mixed, IV ED2; IV WI4-6 M6/Sco V/85°, 5c,A1; 800m 8-10h . 1975-05-20First ascentJean-Marc Boivin & Patrick Gabarrou, 1975-05-20.
  • AC vol I 201
  • Eberlein 340
  • Lowe pp235
Mont Maudit4465
Most commonly climbed as part of the Three Mont Blanc route. Three Mont Blanc route does not climb the summit though.
1900-01-01
Mont Maudit, ,
First ascent
Johann Jaun & Johann von Bergen with W.E.Davidson and H.Seymour Hoare.
North face
North Slope. Ice, PD+/AD-; 45°, avg.35°; 4-6h from Aiguille du Midi . 1901-07-31First ascentP.Casson, P.Kornacker & H.Kuhn, 1901-07-31.
  • Eberlein 301
  • AC vol. 1 156
  • Goedeke pp201
  • Moran 39c
North-East Ridge. Mixed, PD/AD-; 40°, III- (places), mostly II; 430m from Col Maudit 3h from Col Maudit, 5,5-6h from Aiguille du Midi . 1898-07-31First ascentJ.S.Masterman, A. & B.Supersaxo, 1898-07-31.
  • Eberlein 302
  • AC vol. 1 157
  • Moran 39b
Cirque Maudit
Kuffner Arete (Kuffner Ridge, Tour Ronde Ridge). Mixed, II D/NZ3+/4; 50°, 4a/IV, mostly III; up to North Ridge 500m, from there to summit 200m up to North Ridge 4-6h, from there to summit 1h. 5-7h from Rifugio Torino. . 1887-07-04First ascentM. von Kuffner, A.Burgener, H.Furre & anonymous, 1887-07-04.
  • Eberlein 303
  • AC vol. 1 174
  • Rebuffat 50
  • Laroche & Lelong 54
  • Damilano & Perroux 79a
  • Moran 39e
East face (Brenva face, SE face)
Voie Cretier (voie des Italiens). Mixed, IV D+/TD-; IV D+/58°, 4c/IV+; 750m 7-10h from Trident Hut . 1929-08-04First ascentL.Binel, R.Chabod & A.Cretier, 1929-08-04.
  • Eberlein 305
  • AC vol. 1 165
  • Rebuffat 70
  • Damilano & Perroux 80d
Over Couloir. Ice, IV WI5; 700m.
  • Damilano & Perroux 80j
Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco)4808
  • Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco) (4808m)
  • Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4748m)
  • Grand Pilier d'Angle
  • Dome du Goûter
  • Aiguille du Goûter

Mont Blanc is often referred as the highest mountain in Europe. This is not true, as Elbrus, located in Caucasus, is by far higher. However, Mont Blanc is clearly the highest mountain in the Alps.

Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, scientist from Geneva, started the competition over Mont Blanc by promising a monetary reward of 20 thalers to the first ascender. Saussure himself was guided to the top in 1787.

Mont Blanc is very complex mountain with four major ridges and five faces. Some of the ridges contain several peaks that are regularly climbed as independent goals.

  • Bosses ridge (NW Ridge): Mont Blanc - Dome du Goûter - Aiguille du Goûter
  • North face: Bossons glacier
  • NE Ridge: - Mont Blanc - Mont Maudit - Mont Blanc du tacul - Col du Midi
  • Brenva Face (East face)
  • Peutery Ridge: Mont Blanc - Mont Blanc du Courmayeur - Aiguille Blanche - Aiguille Noire
  • Freney and Brouillard faces (SE side)
  • Brouillard Ridge: Mont Blanc du Courmayeur - Pico Luigi Amedeo - Mont Brouillard - Punta Baretti
  • Miage Face (SW face)

Currently there is over 100 routes leading to the top of Mont Blanc.

1786-08-08
Mont Blanc, ,
First ascent
Michel-Gabriel Paccard (Doctor from Chamonix) and Jaques Balmat (crystal hunter). They found their way up the Rochers Rouges and the North-East slope (bivouac in the Colla della Brenva).
1808-01-01
Mont Blanc, ,
First free ascent
Marie Paradis
1876-01-31
Mont Blanc, ,
First winter ascent
I. Straton, J. Charlet & S. Coutett
Bosses arete (NW ridge, Bosses ridge)
Mont Blanc - Dome du Goûter - Aiguille du Goûter
  • Nid d'Aigle
Goûter Ridge (Gouter Ridge). III PD; III PD/Sco I/40°, II; 1050m 4-5h . 1861-07-18First ascentL.Stephen, F.Tuckett, M.Anderegg, J.Bennen & P.Perren., 1861-07-18.

Mostlysnow plod with some scrambling on the ascent to Goûter hut (sort of via ferrata). Extremely crowded during high season. mixed Stone fall danger, especially while crossing the Grand Couloir, only few crevasses.

Normal route. From Nid d'Aigle (2386) hike up to Tête Rousse Hut (3167 m, 800m, 2-3h). Above Tête Rousse cross the Grand Couloir to climb on the south side of couloir. The couloir is endagered by stone fall, especially during afternoon. Above couloir climb on the rocks (follow markings). Climbing is easy I-II and especially on the upper part there are plenty of wires. Beware of loose stones. It may be possible to climb on the rock rib north (left; Payot Arête, yellow markings) side of the Grand Couloir (more difficult but safer) right up to the north summit of Aiguille du Goûter. Follow linking ridge to Goûter Hut (700m, 2-3h from Tête Rousse). From the Goûter Hut head south then south-east along broad snow ridge to slope heading up Dome du Goûter (4303 m). Cross the summit (or pass it on the right side) and descent to Col du Dôme (4240 m). Continue up the steepening slope to Vallot Hut (4362 m) and further up along the Bosses Ridge (snow up to 40°) via Grande Bosse (4513 m) and Petite Bosse (4547 m). Pass the rocks of La Tournette (4677) and continue to the summit. Same route, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Goûter Hut, Tête Rousse Hut
  • Eberlein 181
  • AC vol. 1 57
  • Rebuffat 24
  • Goedeke pp210
  • Laroche & Lelong 15
  • Moran 38
North face
Broad ice slope consisting of Bossons glacier. Easily visible to Chamonix city. Leaqst interesting feature for the climbers.
  • Chamonix
Grands Mulets. Glacier, PD/G4; 40°; From téléphérique station Plan de l'Aiguille (2310m) to the Grands Mulets Hut 800m, summit climb 1776m From téléphérique station Plan de l'Aiguille to the Grands Mulets Hut 3h, summit climb 6-7h . 1859-07-29First ascentE.Headland, G.Hodgkinson, C.Hodson, G.Joan, F.Couttet & two other guides, 1859-07-29.

glacier. Twice as long as Gouter Ridge, only normal clacier travel with crevasses. Most commonly used route for ski alpinists. Occasionally plenty of crevasses, route finding problematic in bad weather. Less exposed to wind than Goûter Ridge.

Normal route. Take the Midi téléphérique from Chamonix to station Plan de l'Aiguille (2310 m). Take the marked path to the Glacier des Pélerins and cross its tongue at ca. 2400 m. Continue marked path to derelict téléphérique station Gare des Glaciers (2414m). Ascend on the left side of Glacier des Bossons, under a big couloir of Aiguille du Midi (stone fall danger) to gain the glacier. Make traverse to south-west to the badly crevassed area of La Jonction. There are usually ladders to bridge most awkward crevasses. Then climb south going up over crevassed snow slopes first keeping right (west) of rock island, then moving onto it where iron handrail leads up to Grands Mulets Hut (3051m). The hut climb often provides more technical difficulties than anything above it. From the hut, cross the glacier heading south-west in the direction of rocks at the end of long north ridge of Dôme du Goûter. Near the seracs of the Dôme, go left over a steep slope (the Petites Montées) to a flatter ramp (Petit Plateau, 3650 m, 2 h). Keeping well away from the seracs climb this flat section and continue up steep slope. Higher after especially big crevasse keep right to the extensive snow field of Grand Plateau (3980m). Traverse to south-west and climb the endless slope to Col du Dôme (6-7h from Grands Mulets Hut). Continue up the Bosses Ridge as for Goûter Ridge to the summit. Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Grands Mulets Hut
  • AC vol. 1 58
  • Goedeke pp212
  • Eberlein 182
  • Moran 38c
North Ridge of Dôme du Goûter. Glacier, AD-; 45°; 1800m 7-8h . 1786-06-08First ascentJ.Balmat, J.Carrier, F.Paccard & J.Tournier, 1786-06-08.

Difficult but secure glacier climb. Very long and lonesome route.

Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Grands Mulets Hut
  • AC vol. 1 59
  • Eberlein 183
  • Moran 38d
NE ridge
Mont Blanc - col del la Brenva - Mont Maudit - Col du Maudit - Mont Blanc du Tacul - Col du Midi
Three Mont Blanc. Glacier, III PD+/NZ2+/3; III/AI1/50°; 1730m. 1890-01-01First ascentL. & J.Bonin and Achille Ratti (later Pope Pius XI) with J.Gadin and A.Proment., 1890.

Almost as crowded as Gouter route. Somewhat more technical due to steeper slopes on the ascent to Col du Mont Maudit. Crevasses on both Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, but usually very good path. glacier/snow. Bergshrunds on the northern side (especially on the Mont Maudit) can be difficult to pass during (late) summer. Avalance danger on North Face of Mont Maudit and North-West face od Mont Blanc du Tacul after new snow. Route finding can be problematic (compass does not work reliably close to Mont Maudit).

Normal route. From the téléphériquerique station pass the tunnel and move to exposed East Ridge. Descent it until it becomes flatter and then head south to the Col du Midi (3532m). On the ridge lies Refuge des Cosmiques. It's location makes it ideal starting point, its expensiveness however, lessens its popularity. Bivouacing in the Midi téléphérique is prohibited. Go up the slopes to the west of steep rock and ice triangle of the North Face, over usually snow-clogged bergschrunds (which may gap widely late in the season) and keeping right, climb steeply upwards to the snow shoulder (Epaule du Mont Blanc du Tacul, ca 4060m). If summiting Mont Blanc du Tacul is included in the plan, move left (east) over the broad ridge to the summit. If you chose this option, descend slopes to Col du Maudit. If summiting Mont Blanc du Tacul is omitted, go from Epaule of Mont Blanc du Tacul go south descending slightly into the extensive saddle of Col du Maudit (4035m). Traverse right (west) out of this on a glacier terrace under some seracs and then traversing steadily right, climb across steep face. Cross the sometimes large bergschrund (or when this is inpractical turn it on the left) and continue right, across very steep slope to the inconspicious saddle of the Col du Mont Maudit (Pointe 4345), here there is usually a wooden stake for belaying and abseiling. To summit Mont Maudit: follow the North-West Ridge with easy climbing (I) or traverse in wide arc across and up the snow of the West Face to the bold rock tooth of the summit block. From Summit of Mont Maudit go south-east down steep slope to the saddle (Pointe 4342). If you don't summit the Maudit, traverse from Col du Mont Maudit to Pointe 4342. Continue down the broad ridge over Pointe 4369 and Pointe 4361 (beware of cornices). Descent to Col de la Brenva (4303m, beware the cornices on the left). Ascend steep Mur de la Côte and follow the spur upwards to the summit keeping to left of the rock outcrops keeping the safe distance from cornices over the Brenva Face. Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Cosmiques Hut
  • AC vol. 1 62
  • Goedeke pp198 & pp 201
  • Eberlein 188
  • Laroche & Lelong 17
  • Moran 38b
Brenva face (East face)
Brenva face has some legendary climbs. Most commonly climbed route from here is Brenva Spur (AD+/D), tremendous classic and also the easiest and safest route on Brenva face. Route Major and Sentinelle Rouge (Red Sentinel) are both more difficult and more dangerous. Routes start at Col Moore, located at the base of Brenva Spur.
  • Damilano & Perroux 82a-82m
Sentinelle Rouge (Red Sentinel). Mixed, IV D+; IV/AI2/55° avg 47°, III, II; 1300m 5-6h for the wall, 7-9h from the bivouac to summit . 1927-09-02First ascentT.Graham Brown & F.Smythe, 1927-09-02.
  • AC vol. 1 74
  • Eberlein 194
  • Damilano & Perroux 82g
Brenva Spur (Eperon Brenva). Mixed, IV D-; IV D/45-50°, II-III; 900m to the Col de la Brenva, total of 1300m to the summit From Rifugio Quintino Sella 2,5-8,5h . 1865-07-15First ascentG. Matthews, A. Moore, F. & H. Walker, J. & M. Anderegg, 1865-07-15.
Classic. A tremendous classic and the easiest route on the Face following prominent spur rising from Col Moore. Crux is finding the way through serac barrier, difficulty varies from year to year. Serac danger. Also stone fall danger on the lower part. Güssfeldt couloir variant avoids the rocky lower part by gaining the spur via broad couloir/flank.
  • AC vol. 1 73
  • Eberlein 191
  • Rebuffat 56
  • Damilano & Perroux 82a, 82d
  • Moran 38n
Route Major. V TD-; V/2/57°, 4b/IV; technical part 1100m, total 1300m Col Moore-end of difficulties 6-9h, total 8-12h . 1928-08-07First ascentT.Graham & F.Smythe, 1928-08-07.

mixed. Popular route on Brenva Face. Considerably more difficult than Brenva Spur.

Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Bivacco de la Fourche
  • AC vol. 1 75
  • Eberlein 195
  • Damilano & Perroux 82k
Grand Pilier d'Angle
Te high point of Grand Pilier d'Angle is at 4243m. Howevr, the easiest ascent is to climb the upper Peuterey ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc. All routes are difficult and ogether with Peutereyridge 1400m high.
Divine Providence. Rock, ED3/4; 7c+/5.12d/VII/VII+,A2/3; very sustained at V+, VI, VI+; 900m, total 1500m . 1984-08-08First ascentPatrick Gabarrou & Franois Marsigny., 1984-08-08.
  • AC vol. 1 84
  • Eberlein 207
Boivin-Vallencant. IV TD+/ED1; IV WI4/Sco IV/85-90°; 900m.
Lower part is the same as in Cecchinel-Nominé.
Peterey Ridge
Classic Peuterey Integral is difficult and very committing multi-day endeavour. Dames Anglaises variation is shorter and less difficult, still both challenging and committing enough for most tastes. There are bivouac huts close to Breche Nord des Dames Anglaises and Col de Peuterey.
Peuterey Ridge Integral. Mixed, V TD+/ED1; V+, mostly IV and V (S Ridge of Aiguille Noire), otherwise II and IV, V M5 AI1-2/50-60°; > 4500m 2-n days . 1953-07-26First ascentR.Hechtel & G.Kittelmann, 1953-07-26.
  • AC vol. 1 86 (#142-#143-#135-#85)
  • Eberlein 216
  • Rebuffat 95
Peuterey Ridge: Dames Anglaises. Mixed, IV D+; IV, sustained at III and II, 55°; Hut climb 1000m, bivouac approach 1100m, from bivouac to Aiguille Blance de Peuterey 700m, 150m descent to Col Peuterey, 850m to Mont Blanc Hut climb 3h, bivouac approach 4-7h, from bivouac to Aiguille Blance de Peuterey 5-6h, descent to Col Peuterey 2h, to Mont Blanc 5-10h from Col Peuterey . 1927-07-31First ascentL.Obersteiner & K.Schneirer, 1927-07-31.

Principal difficulty is the length and sustained and changing demands. Requires well settled weather. Remote. Everything that can possibly be encountered on high mountains: crevasses on a very disrupted glaciers (especially on retreat); stone-fall in the couloir to the Brèche Nord des Dames Anglaises, especially in good conditions; loose rock on the rib on the South-East Face; hypothermia on the summit ridge in storm; avalanches on the Rochers Gruber in bad weather, etc. Principal danger is the bad weather forcing a retreat. This will be either a down the Rochers Gruber or difficult ascent to the Col de l'Innominata.

By bus or car from Courmayeur along Val Veni as far as Cantine de la Visaille (1653 m). Cross the main stream to the Chalets de Frêney. From there, take the marked track over a gigantic scree fan and then, keeping left (west) of the stream descening from the Frêney Glacier, climb the rugged face with many bends. Finally take the climbing path with fixed wires etc. up three tiers of slabs to the saddle by the Aiguille du Châtelet and the Monzino Hut (2561 m). From the hut go north-east under the walls of Aiguille Croux, and ascend over debris and snow onto the cirque in front of the Punta Innominata. From the snow of this cirque go right (east) over rocks and up a gully to the Col de l'Innominata (3205, 2-3h from the hut). On the other side, abseil down a steep gully and then descend to the Frêney Glacier. Take an adventurous route through the crevasse labyrinth to reach and climb the snow couloir descending from the Brèche Nord. If the bergschrund is impassable, or there is danger of stone-fall, the Schneider Couloir, running parallel to the main couloir but well to the left, below the Punta Gugliermina, is less dangerous. Higher up take the left (north) branch to the notch (3470m, obliquely left above is the Caveri (or Dames Anglaises) Bivouac Hut, 3490m. Above the notch, a steep rise bars the way ahead. Go left (west) and climb up and down on the wall of the rise, climb a short chimney and then, on shelves and ledges, cross some 40m (III and II) to a slabby, gully-like couloir. Climb the couloir (III) to the notch on an adjacent ridge, right of the thin pinnacle. On the right go up a sort of gully (III) for 10 meters to easy ground above the first steep rise. Up the ridge for a short way, then traverse right (Brenva side) over debris and snow to rubble ribs which are separated from one another by snow gullies. The third rib is the best, climb this directly, high above the criss-crossed Brenva Glacier, with occasional crumbling rock, until it ends at a notch on the main ridge (about 100 meters to the side and somewhat above the Punta Gugliermina). Ascend the ridge, then descend on the right to the left (IV). After that, go up to the ridge again and on this finally on a broad snow ridge to the south-east top (4107 , Pointe Seymour King). On the other side, go down a short brittle gully to the narrow snow ridge. Traverse across on its knife-edge (very exposed) to the central summit (4112 m, Pointe Güssfeldt) and continue to the North-West Summit (4104 m, Pointe Jones). These two summits are often turned - The Central on the Brenva side, the North-West on the Frêney side - which can involve climbing on very hard ice. Head north down to a rocky shoulder. Go steeply down from a fixed abseil point on the North-West Face and, most conveniently, abseil 400m from the lowest rocks to clear the bergschrund and thence descend to the Col de Peuterey (3934). If the weather turns bad, it is possible to descend from here (although complicated). On the left (west) of the ridge edge leading to the top of the Grand Pilier d'Angle traverse left a short distance until below where the ridge angle eases and cross the bergschrund here (often awkward) before working right to gain the ridge, 2-4h. On the left (west) of the ridge edge leading to the top of the Grand Pilier d'Angle make a longer traverse left before heading directly up a ramp of mixed climbing (stone-fall danger) to gain the ridge behind the Grand Pilier by a gendarme, 2-4h. After this climb the corniced ridge and finally up the stepening snow or ice face to the summit cornices of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (very long and in bad weather quickly murderous). Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Monzino Hut
  • AC vol. 1 85
  • Eberlein 214
  • Goedeke pp220
  • Moran 38m
Peuterey face
800m
  • Col de Peuterey/bivouac Eccless
Central Pillar of Frêney. Rock, ED1; VI,A1/7a/VIII/VIII+; 500m . 1961-08-29First ascentChris Bonington , I.Clough, J.Djuglosz & D.Whillans, 1961-08-29.

Frêney Pillar was regarded as the last of great problems in the Alps. Bad weather forced legendary Walter Bonatti and Pierre Mazeaud to cancel their pursuit in 1961. Used to be considered to be the most difficult route to summit Mont Blanc.

Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .
  • AC vol. 1 91
  • Eberlein 224
  • Rebuffat 100
Freneysie Pascale. VI WI6; 700m.
Innominata Ridge
Classic mixed ridge descending from the Brouillard ridge separating Freney and Brouillard faces.
Innominata Ridge. Mixed/rock, IV D/D+; IV+, IV AI2 M2/54°; 1000m 7-12h . 1909-08-20First ascentS.Courtaud, E.Oliver, A.Aufdenblatten, A. & H.Rey, 1909-08-20.
  • AC vol. 1 99
  • Eberlein 230
  • Rebuffat 81
  • Moran 38l
Brouillard face
600m
  • Col de Peuterey/bivouac Eccless
Hypercouloir Brouillard. V ED2; V WI5+/6; 700m.
  • Damilano & Perroux 86i
Brouillard ridge
Less popular than neighboring Innominata and Peuterey Ridges.
Brouillard ridge. D-; III.
  • Moran 38j
Miage face (SW face)
Les Bosses South-West Side. Mixed, AD+; 1480, 6,5-8h from Quintino Sella, 780m, 8-9h from Rifugio Gonella. 1909-07-29First ascentH. von Hertling & H.Pfann, 1909-07-29.
  • AC vol. 1 65
  • Moran 38i
Tournette Spur (Rocher du Mont Blanc). Mixed, III AD-D; III PD/30-45°, III, mostly II. 1872-07-02First ascentT.S.Kennedy with Jean-Antoine Carrell and J. Fischer, 1872-07-02.

Elegant and varied line that follows the rocky spur SW from from La Tournette (Pointe 4677). The route lies on the least visited face of the Mont Blnc. The Face lies in the shadow, so it is cold, which renders it safe against stone fall. Not recommended during windy or unsettled weather, as the route is heavily exposed to the wind. Not suitable for descend. Grade varies greatly between different guidebooks. Old books may list grade PD or PD both of which are commonly felt too low. Furthermore, Both the route and approach have become more difficult during the recent years.

Climb the small steep and crevassed glacier to the NE and reach a snow saddle at the SE foot of the Rocher du Mont Blanc (1½h). If the glacier is too crevassed, traverse East level with the hut and scramble up the rocky crest on the R of a narrow couloir, to the saddle (1¾h). Descend to the upper plateau of the Glacier du Mont Blanc and cross it heading northwards to reach the base of the spur coming down from La Tournette (¾h). Pass the rocky rognon 3620m on the left side and above. Cross a rimaye on the right (often tricky). Climb a little snowy couloir on the rocks bordering it and reach the crest of the ridge that marks the right side of the large wall at the base of the spur. Follow the steep crest (rock partly loose, II and III). Turn any obstacles on the right and continue up the snow ridge, crossing several rocky outcrops. Turn the last rock outcrop on the right and ascend diagonally rightwards to the Bosses Ridge. Continue to the summit. Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Capanna Quintino Sella, Gonella Hut
  • AC vol. 1 64
  • Eberlein 251
  • Damilano & Perroux 88j
  • Moran 38h
Eperon Jaccoux-Domenech (Miage Face Left-hand Spur). Ice/mixed, III D; III AD; 1100m 8-10h from Quintano Sella Hut . 1976-08-22First ascentDominique de Frouville, Jean Perrodgau, Bernard Domenech & Claude Jaccoux, 1976-08-22.
  • AC vol. 1 67
  • Damilano & Perroux 88e
Miage Face Central Spur (Contrefort Ccntral). III AD/D; 1100m . 1893-08-16First ascentT.L. Kesteven, A.M. Marshal, E. & J. Gentinetta & R. Kaufmanl, 1893-08-16.
  • AC vol. 1 68
  • Damilano & Perroux 88c
Aiguilles Grises (Italian Normal Route). Mixed, III PD+ (glacier variation)/PD (non-glacier-variation)/nccs III/Rus 2A/B; III AI1/40°, II; 1736m, 7-8h. 1890-01-01First ascentL. & J.Bonin and Achille Ratti (later Pope Pius XI) with J.Gadin and A.Proment., 1890.

Disrupted glacier that can be barely passable during late summer.

Normal route. From Lac Combal in the Val Veni to the Gonella Hut 1050m, 4h. Ascend near western edge of the glacier, then move toward centre (crevassed). Higher up, follow the left (western) arm of the glacier, cross the bergschrund and go left to the Col des Aiguilles Grises (3809m, 3h). This point can also be reached by following Aiguilles Grises ridge from the hut (PD), climbing over the first two towers, turning the third on the west side and continuing over the summit of Calotte des Aiguilles Grises (3826m) to the col (4h). Continue snow ridge to the shoulder on the frontier ridge just above Col de Bionassay. Continue up the often corniced ridge to a further shoulder (4153m, iron posts) and then on to the Dôme du Goûter (4303m) to join the Goûter Ridge -route. Gouter Ridge, Grands Mulets, Three Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi .Gonella Hut
  • AC vol. 1 63
  • Goedeke pp212
  • Eberlein 252
  • Rebuffat 30
  • Laroche & Lelong 16
  • Moran 38f

Satellites of Mont Blanc du Tacul

Grand Capucin3838
Possibly the most famous granite monolith in the area-
East face
Bonatti route (East Face Original). Rock, TD/TD+ (aid)/ED3 (free); V+/VI,A1/VIII/VIII+; 350m 10h . 1951-07-23First ascentW.Bonatti & L.Ghigo, 1951-07-23.
  • AC vol. 1 254
  • Rebuffat 89
Voyage selon Gulliver (Gulliver's Travels). Rock, ED3/ABO-; VIII-,A0; 350m . 1984-01-01First ascentMichel Piola, Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1984.
4b, 6a, 6c, 6b, VIIa/A3, 5c, 6b, 6c, VIc/A3, 5c, 4c.
  • AC vol. 1 256
  • Eberlein 398
Zimniy voyag (vouage hivernal). Rus 6B/ED+; 6c,A4; 400m.
Petite Capucin3693
Pointe Lachenal3613
Pyramide du Tacul3468
Pointe Adolphe Rey3536

Tour Ronde

Tour Ronde3792
Not too important mountain per se. However, due to spectacular panorama from the summit, convenient location close toTorino hut and few classic climbs, quite popular peak.
1867-07-22
Tour Ronde, ,
First ascent
J.Blackhouse, T.Carson, D.Freshfield, C.Tucker, D.Balleys & M.Payot
1985-01-01
Tour Ronde, ,
First winter ascent
U.Mautino, J.Petigax & C.Croux
SE ridge
SE ridge (South-East Ridge). Mixed, II PD/PD+/Rus 2B; II AD/35-40° on snow/ice (snow couloir variant up to 45°)°, I-II/5.3; 250m, ridge length 600m 3-4h from Col du Géant . 1867-07-22First ascentJ.Blackhouse, T.Carson, D.Freshfield, C.Tucker, D.Balleys & M.Payot in descent, 1867-07-22.
Normal route. There are two possibile starts: follow the glacier on the east side of Tour Ronde to the Col d'Entrèves (3527m, 1,5h from the hut). Follow the snowy South-East ridge, at first on the right side, then turn a series of gendarmes on the left. Reach a snow saddle of Col Freshfield at 3625m. Before reaching the Col d'Entrèves head right to relatively steep (max.45 degrees?) snow couloir. Pass the bersgschrund and climb the couloir directly up to Col Freshfield. From Col Freshfield climb on a moderate rock (II) with some airy sections on the granite crest. This is followed by a snowy slope that leads on the foot of final rocks. Scramble them to achieve to summit. In descent 2-3h from summit to Col du Géant. It is possible to rappel the steep rocks down to Col Freshfield. .Rifugio Torino
  • Eberlein 454 (ascent), #459 (descent)
  • AC vol. 1 267
  • Rebuffat 11
  • Laroche & Lelong 7
  • Damilano & Perroux 71a (couloir variant)
North face
Classic north face, good introduction to bigger and more serious ice faces of the area. Classic route is often crowded. However, there are several good alternative routes on the face.
North-East Ridge Direct. Rock/mixed, D+/TD-; VI- or A0; 350m, 5-6h.
  • AC vol. 1 274
Voie Buscaini (itinéraire de gauche). Ice, II D; 2 (50°-55°), 4c; 350m . 1959-08-19First ascentGino Buscaini (solo), 1959-08-19.
Ice route on the left side of the north face. Upper part rocky.Rifugio Torino
  • Damilano & Perroux 71b
North Face. Ice, II AD+/D-; II/AI2/Sco II/60° (avg.52°)°, IV (Direct Finnish variant); 350m/10-12 pitch 4h (3-5h) . 1886-08-23First ascentF.Gonella & A.Berthod, 1886-08-23.

An established classic providing good introduction to steeper alpine faces. On this popular route it pays to get up early, not only to minimize possible rock or ice fall (the route gets morning sun) but to be ahead of other parties.

Classic. Pass the bergschrund in the middle part of the face (or on the right side). By keeping on the right side of the slope, it is possible to obtain good rock belays. After ca. 3 pitches of around 50° the face narrows to an icy couloir that bind the lower and upper fields together. This bottlenecks is the steepest part (two pitches of 50°-60°). Above this, it takes about 4 pitches (45°-50°) to the ridge. The final barrier to the summit, rock wall is mostly turned on the left side; at first descending a little, then ascending join the normal route (South East Ridge) and continue to the summit. Summit rock wall can also be climbed directly (30 m, 4c (UIAA IV)). South-East Ridge, 2-3h from summit to Col du Géant. On good firn conditions also possible via Gervasutti Couloir, AD .Rifugio Torino, Cosmiques Hut
  • Eberlein 455
  • AC vol. 1 273
  • Rebuffat 35
  • Laroche & Lelong 41
  • Damilano & Perroux 71c
Crampon Futé (North-West Face). Ice/mixed, D+; 55°; 350m .
Starts as the north face, then climbs small couloir to the left of the north face in the middle part and joins the north face again above the bottle neck.
  • Damilano & Perroux 71d
Couloir Decors-Perroux (North Couloir). Ice, II D/D+; II/WI2/70°, II; 350m 4-5h . 1978-12-01First ascentPatrick Decorpd & Godefroy Perroux, 1978-12-01.
More difficult alternative to often too crowded North face. Follows not too prominent couloir to the right of the north face.
  • Damilano & Perroux 71e
  • AC vol. 1 272
West face
Gervasutti Couloir (West Couloir). Snow/ice, AD; avg. 48°; 250m 3,5h from Torino Hut . 1934-07-27First ascentR.Chabod & G.Gervasutti, 1934-07-27.
Classic. A popular little classic which lies around to the right in a hidden slot in the west face. Slightly shorter and more enclosed by the surrounding rock wall, it lacks the big sense of exposure of the North Face. Often a good choice if the North Face is crowded and can be used for descent in good conditions. The slope is fairly uniform 48°. At the top turn the summit tower on the north side and climb it from the east.
  • AC vol. 2 268
  • Damilano & Perroux 71i
Aiguille du Toule3534
Unimportant peak per se located on Glacier du Geant, close to Tour Ronde. Climbing on the north side (AD, 200m)

Peuterey Ridge

Mont Blanc de Courmayeur4748
Unimportant side summit of Mont Blanc separated from the main summit by snow ridge. Peuterey, Innominata and Broillard Ridges join at the summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur.
North ridge
Traverse from Mont Blanc. .
Grand Pilier d'Angle4243
Side summit of Mont Blanc. The easiest route to the top is either to follow Dames Anglaises variation of Peuterey Ridge or climb to Col de Peterey, then follow Petery Ridge to the summit. Easiest descent climbs to the summit of Mont Blanc.
Peuterey ridge
From Col de Peuterey. .
Col de Peuterey
Aiguille Blanche (Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, Aiguille Blanche (de Peuterey))4112

Aiguille Blance is considered to be the most difficult of the independent 4000 meter peaks in the Alps (normal route being D+).

Aiguille Blance in generally climbed as a part of Peuterey Ridge -route to the Mont Blanc.

1900-01-01
Aiguille Blanche, ,
First ascent
1885-07-31 Emile Rey, Ambros Supersaxo and Aloys Anthamatten with H.Seymour King via North-West Ridge, Col de Frêney and Col de Peuterey
North face
Beautiful but serious ice route. Also approach accross Brenva glacier is serious.
  • Brenva glacier
South side
Dames Anglaises Ridge. D+; IV, sustained at III and II, 55°; Hut climb 1000m, bivouac approach 1100m, from bivouac to Aiguille Blance de Peuterey 700m, 150m descent to Col Peuterey, 850m to Mont Blanc Hut climb 3h, bivouac approach 4-7h, from bivouac to Aiguille Blance de Peuterey 5-6h, descent to Col Peuterey 2h, to Mont Blanc 5-10h from Col Peuterey . 1927-07-31First ascentL.Obersteiner & K.Schneirer, 1927-07-31.

mixed. Principal difficulty is the length and sustained and changing demands. Requires well settled weather. Remote. Everything that can possibly be encountered on high mountains: crevasses on a very disrupted glaciers (especially on retreat); stone-fall in the couloir to the Brèche Nord des Dames Anglaises, especially in good conditions; loose rock on the rib on the South-East Face; hypothermia on the summit ridge in storm; avalanches on the Rochers Gruber in bad weather, etc. Principal danger is the bad weather forcing a retreat. This will be either a down the Rochers Gruber or difficult ascent to the Col de l'Innominata.

Normal route. By bus or car from Courmayeur along Val Veni as far as Cantine de la Visaille (1653 m). Cross the main stream to the Chalets de Frêney. From there, take the marked track over a gigantic scree fan and then, keeping left (west) of the stream descening from the Frêney Glacier, climb the rugged face with many bends. Finally take the climbing path with fixed wires etc. up three tiers of slabs to the saddle by the Aiguille du Châtelet and the Monzino Hut (2561 m). From the hut go north-east under the walls of Aiguille Croux, and ascend over debris and snow onto the cirque in front of the Punta Innominata. From the snow of this cirque go right (east) over rocks and up a gully to the Col de l'Innominata (3205, 2-3h from the hut). On the other side, abseil down a steep gully and then descend to the Frêney Glacier. Take an adventurous route through the crevasse labyrinth to reach and climb the snow couloir descending from the Brèche Nord. If the bergschrund is impassable, or there is danger of stone-fall, the Schneider Couloir, running parallel to the main couloir but well to the left, below the Punta Gugliermina, is less dangerous. Higher up take the left (north) branch to the notch (3470m, obliquely left above is the Caveri (or Dames Anglaises) Bivouac Hut, 3490m. Above the notch, a steep rise bars the way ahead. Go left (west) and climb up and down on the wall of the rise, climb a short chimney and then, on shelves and ledges, cross some 40m (III and II) to a slabby, gully-like couloir. Climb the couloir (III) to the notch on an adjacent ridge, right of the thin pinnacle. On the right go up a sort of gully (III) for 10 meters to easy ground above the first steep rise. Up the ridge for a short way, then traverse right (Brenva side) over debris and snow to rubble ribs which are separated from one another by snow gullies. The third rib is the best, climb this directly, high above the criss-crossed Brenva Glacier, with occasional crumbling rock, until it ends at a notch on the main ridge (about 100 meters to the side and somewhat above the Punta Gugliermina). Ascend the ridge, then descend on the right to the left (IV). After that, go up to the ridge again and on this finally on a broad snow ridge to the south-east top (4107 , Pointe Seymour King). On the other side, go down a short brittle gully to the narrow snow ridge. Traverse across on its knife-edge (very exposed) to the central summit (4112 m, Pointe Güssfeldt) and continue to the North-West Summit (4104 m, Pointe Jones). These two summits are often turned - The Central on the Brenva side, the North-West on the Frêney side - which can involve climbing on very hard ice. Head north down to a rocky shoulder. Go steeply down from a fixed abseil point on the North-West Face and, most conveniently, abseil 400m from the lowest rocks to clear the bergschrund and thence descend to the Col de Peuterey (3934). If the weather turns bad, it is possible to descend from here (althouygh complicated). Least complicated descent leads to the summit of Mont Blanc. See Mont Blanc: Peuterey Ridge - Dames Anglaises. In good conditoins a feasible descent is to cross over the Frêney Glacier and climb up to the Col Eccless and the bivouac box there, usually over-crowded in good weather. From there, descend to the Monzino Hut, down the abundantly crevassed Brouillard Glacier, possibly helped by tracks. This provides a good escape providing the col can be reached before the weather breaks but in new snow the Frêney basin quickly becomes avalanche-prone. Another way is to descent of the Rochers Gruber, a steep rognon between the Aiguille Blanche and the highest ice-fall of the Frêney Glacier. To start, descend from the col south-south-westwards to the beginning of the snow ridge (not easy to find in a mist) and down this until it changes into a steep snow and rock rib. First descend on the left (east) near the rock rib on steep snow as far as the steep drop. Above the drop cross over to the rocks on the right. Now abseil, keeping right and using several small traverses to gain the lower Frêney Glacier. Descend the very crevassed slopes until under the Col de l'Innominata which is then gained up a steep gully (difficult). On the other side an easier descend leads down to Monzino Hut. If a Rochers Gruber descend is thought too dangerous, digging a snow hole will buy time to consider remaining options. .Monzino Hut
  • AC vol. 1 85
  • Eberlein 214
  • Goedeke pp220
Breche Nord des Dames Anglaises3490
Dames Anglaises bivouac hut is located close to col.
From Monzino hut. 1100m, 4-7h.
Normal route. Ice/snow couloir.Monzino hut
Pointe Gugliermina3893
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey3772
.
South Ridge
South Ridge. TD; V+,A0/VI; 1032m.
West face
Ratti-Vitali (West face Direct). TD; V+,A1; 700m.
Pointe Gamba3067

Dome du Gouter - Aiguille de Bionassay

Aiguille Bionassay (Aiguille du Bionassay, Aiguille de Bionassay)4052
South ridge
South Ridge. PD+; 45°, II; 700m 3-5h . 1888-07-13First ascentG Gruber, K Maurer & A Jaun, 1888-07-13.

mixed ridge. Often climbed as a part of traverse of Mont Blanc with Dômes de Miage. Easiest route to summit. Beware of cornices on the ridge

Normal route. same route Traverse over Bionassay Ridge and Bosses grat to Mont Blanc. .Durier Hut
  • Goedeke pp217
  • AC vol. 1 48
  • Damilano & Perroux 90b
  • Laroche & Lelong 44
North ridge
Arete de Bionassay (Bionassay Arete, Bionassay Ridge, East Ridge). III AD; III AI1, ; 680m 5-6h from Gonella Hut. In reverse order from summit to Mont Blanc summit 6,5h. . 1888-08-13First ascentFA (ridge as a part of a traverse): K Richardson, E rey & J Bich, 1888-08-13.
  • Goedeke pp218
  • AC vol. 1 49
  • Laroche & Lelong 44 (as a part of traverse)
North face
North-West Face Original Route. AD/AD+; max. 55°, mostly 40°, ; 1050m to the summit 5-9h . 1865-07-25First ascentE.N. Buxton, F.C. Grove, R.J.S. MacDonald, J.P. Cachat & M. Payot, 1865-07-25.
  • AC vol. 1 50
  • Damilano & Perroux 90a

Tré la tête

Aiguille des Glaciers3816
Aiguille de la Lex Blanche3697
NW face
North-West Face. - - AD+; 800m approach 1,5h, ascent 4-5h, descent 3h to the Tré-la-Tête Hut . 1900-01-01First ascent 1931-07-31 R Gaché,P Gayet-Tancrède & R Jonquière .
  • Laroche & Lelong 47
  • Eberlein 112
  • AC vol. 1 24
.
Aiguille de Trélatête3930
Aiguille de la Bérangère3425
Dômes de Miage3673
  • Dômes de Miage (3673m)
  • Dôme occidental (West Summit) (3670m)
  • Pointe 3666 (3666m)
  • Dôme central (Central summit) (3633m)
  • Pointe 3672 (3672m)
France, Alps, Mont Blanc Massif.
1900-01-01
Dômes de Miage, ,
First ascent
1858-09-02 E.T. Coleman, Frédéric Mollard & Joseph Jacquemont
East side
Normal Route from Conscrits. F; 950m 3h .

glacier

Normal route. From the hut to the plateau des Col Infranchissable. Now to the left (north-west) up the glacier (crevasses) to Col des Dômes. Over a short firn ridge to the main summit. same route Conscrits Hut . Refugio des Conscrits 2602
  • Eberlein 141
Traverse East to West. II F/PD; II/PD/45°, III; 1090m 6-8h from round trip from Conscritis Hut .

glacier beware of cornices, crevasses on Glacier de Tré-la-Tête

From the hut over the moraine and about 150m down to Plan Glacier (Glacier de Miage). Traverse this and head for left flank of North-West Pillar, a bit above its base at 2600m (45m). Climb on the crest of the pillar for around 600m until the pillar turns into snow and ice spur. Follow the spur (50°) to get to the summit ridge on the eastern side of Col des Dômes (at ca. 3620m). Now to left (east) along the easy ridge to the summit at 3673m (5-6h). Frome here descent to Col des Dômes and further along South-West Ridge to the West Summit and further along the ridge descending to Col de la Bérangère (3348m) and ascending North-East Ridge of Aiguille de la Bérangère to the summit (3425m). Descend ther normal route of Aiguille de la Bérangère (South-West Flank). . Refugio des Conscrits 2602
  • Eberlein 144 (also #141, #142, #132, #131)
  • Laroche & Lelong 6
  • AC vol. 1 5 (also #3, #2, #14)
NW face
Mettrier Ridge. - - AD+/D; 1000m from bergschrund approach: 45min, ascend 5-6h . 1900-01-01First ascent 1902-08-23 H Mettrier, F Carcey & J Cayetto .

mixed during the begin of the season, when there's still plenty of snow on the upper slopes

From the hut over the moraine and about 150m down to Plan Glacier (Glacier de Miage). Traverse this and head for left flank of North-West Pillar, a bit above its base at 2600m (45m). Climb on the crest of the pillar for around 600m until the pillar turns into snow and ice spur. Follow the spur (50°) to get to the summit ridge on the eastern side of Col des Dômes (at ca. 3620m). Now to left (east) along the easy ridge to the summit at 3673m (5-6h). over Col des Dômes and Glacier de Tré-la-Tête Conscrits Hut 2h classic traverse of Dômes de Miage and Bérangere in south-west Conscrits Hut 3h Descent to Durier Hut Durier Hut 2h On stabile weather it is possible to descent to Durier Hut and continue from there the following day the South Ridge of Aiguille Bionassay. The descent from Durier Hut is problematic. Climb on the east ridge ovar the last Dôme (3672m) and descend north-east ridge (mixed) to the saddle of Col de Miage (3370m, 2h). . Plan-Glacier-Hut 2713
  • Laroche & Lelong 53
  • Eberlein 152
  • AC vol. 1 12
  • Damilano & Perroux 91i
Petit Mont Blanc3424