Western Alps: Bernese Alps
The Bernese Oberland is located in the north-western part of the Swiss Alps. Apart from a eight 4000m peaks it has many challenging summits above the 3000m mark. Although Finsteraarhorn is the highest peak in the area (4274m), the Bernese Alps are dominated by the famous trilogy of Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger. The area is highly heavily glaciated, in fact, around 25 km long Aletschgletscher, the longest glacier in the Alps, is found in the Bernese Alps. The center of Bernese Alps is Grindelwald (1034m). Jungfraubahn from Lauterbrunnen to Jungfraujoch (3454), the highest railway in the Europe, makes approaches to several climbs much shorter.
Alpes & Préalpes vaudoises
Peaks located to the west of Bernese Alps (separated from them by Sanetsch pass). Peaks are lower and far less glaciated (some small ones exist). A lot of rock climbing, not so much classic mountaineering or climbs on snow, ice and mixed terrain except for frozen waterfalls during the winter. Highest peak of the area is Les Diablerets. Tour d'Ai is another popular climbing destination.
- Gummfluh Group located to the north of Les Diablerets and SW of Gstaadt.
- Dents de Morcles Two-summited group located to the north of Martigny, forming the westernmost peak in Alpes Vaudoises. Grande Dent de Morcles rises to 2969m and Petite Dent de Morcles (2929m) is only few meters lower.
- Les Diablerets
- Berner Voralpen
Lower peaks to the north of main Bernese Alps. The area can be divided into three main sections: Simmentaler Voralpen, Lauterbrunner Voralpen and North-Easternly Voralpen (Emmentaler Alpen), each of which is in turn divided into several groups. The highest peak is Schilthorn (2970m) in Lauterbrunner group.
Probably the best known part of Bernese Voralpen among climbers is Gastlosen chain. It is a group of rather low peaks (the highest being Dent de Savigny (2252m), however known for rock climbs on limestone.
- Sanetsch-Gemmi-Petersgrat Westernmost part of Bernese Alps main crest. The groups furthest to the west are lower and not as steep as those located further east. These peaks are also popular ski mountaineering destinations. Doldenhorn, Balmhorn and Gspaltenhorn in the eastern part of the group have several classic mid-grade and difficult routes, mostly on ice and/or mixed terrain.
- Wildhorn group Westernmost group on Bernese Alps, totally dominated by Wildhorn. Easy climbs and popular ski mountaineering.
- Wildstrubel group
- Balmhorn group
- Blüemlisalp group
- Biethschhorn, Breithorn, Aletschhorngruppen Group located in the southern Bernese Alps, to the south of main crest. The group is surrounded by Lötschental on west and NW and bu Aletschgletscher in East and NE. The group consist of main crest forming the southern border of Lötschental and Aletsgletscher. All the main peaks except of Nesthorn and Geisshorn are located on this crest. There are several north-south ridges from the high crest forming numerous valleys accessible from Rhone valley in the south. Three easternmost of those, Beichgletscher, Oberaletsgletscher and Mittelaletscgletscher are very heavily glaciated. The highest peak of the area is Aletschhorn located at the eastern end of the group. Bietschhorn in the western end is the second highest peak. Lötschentaler Breithorn, Nesthorn, Schinhorn and Geisshorn are the other main peaks.
- Bietschhorn group
- Lötschentaler group
- Breithorn group
- Nesthorn group Located not far from Biethschhorn - Breithorn - Aletschhorn crest on it's south side. Forms a long parallel ridge towards south to the ridge running south of Lötschtaler Breithorn.
- Aletschhorn group
- Eggishorn group Ski lifts from Fiesch. Useful as starting point, otherwise not much interest.
- Tschingelhorn - Finsteraarhorn Central section of Bernese Alps with most of the famous and high peaks. Heavily glaciated area with steep north faces, particularly on Lauterbrunner wall, Jungrfrau, Mönch, Eiger and Fiescherwand.
- Tschingelhorn group
- Jungfrau group
- Fiescherhörner group
- Finsteraarhorn group
- "Grindelwald-Grimselpass Eastern part of Bernese Alps. Some of the big peaks in this part are very impressive remote giants (Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn). On the other hand, Wetterhorn and some peaks accessible from Grimselpass are readily accessible. Aside big peaks of Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn and Wetterhorn, lots of rock climbing on lower peaks from Haslital and Grimselpass.
- Wetterhorn group
- Schreckhorn group
- Ewigschneehorn- & Bächlistock group" name="bachlistock_group Large half circle of peaks to the east of Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn and Finsteraarhorn and north of Grimselsee - Unteraargletscher - Lauteraargletscher. Peaks between 3000 and 3500m, none of them very famous alpine destinations. Access from the valleys Reichenbachtal on NW, Urbachtal in NE and Grimselsee - Unteraargletscher - Lauteraargletscher in SE. The most accessible areas, Engelhörner in the north and the peaks in SE close to Grimselpass have rock climbing.
- "Ritzlihorn group Group of peaks inside "Ewigschneehorn- & Bächlistock, to the east and accessible from Urbachtal (west) and Haslital (east). Bächlital in the southern part with Gross Diamantstock is popular rock climbing destination.
- Oberaarhorn-Sidelhorn Groups located in SE Bernese Alps, to the east of Fiensteraarhorn and south of Grimselsee - Unteraargletscher - Finsteraargletscher. Access from Fieschergletscher (west), Finsteraargletscher (north) or Upper Rhônetal (south). None of the peaks are very or very famous and most peaks are easy. best known difficult route is Studerhorn north face.
- Oberaarhorn group
- Galmihorn group
- Sidelhorn group Long west-east chain from Oberaarrothorn towards Grimsel pass south of Oberaargletscher. The ridge is known as Aargat. Main peaks are Löffelhorn (3095m) and Grosser Sidelhorn (2879m). Ascent of Sidelhorn does not require climbing.
Strictly speaking no longer part of Berner Alps as Urner Alps are located to the east of Haslital and Grimselpass. In the north the border is formed by Griessental and Isital, due south of Vierwaldstättersee. In the east the group is bordered on Glarus Alps and separated from it by Reuss and Reusstal. In the south the border is formed by Furkapass, Garschen, Urseren and Furkareuss.
Compared to nearby Bernese Alps, the peaks in Urner Alps are lower and known mostly for rock climbing (still, there are several peaks around 3500m). In contrast to Bernese Alps rock is often excellent granite and there are no big glaciers complicating access. Most popular climbing areas are Furkapass, Grimselpass and Göschenertal.
Urner Alps consist of two main areas divided by Gadmertal and Sustenpass:
- Northern Urner Alps
By far the best known peak of northern Urner Alps is Titlis, located to the north of Sustenpass. Generally northern Urner Alps are less known among the climbers than the southern part.
The most imposing feature of northern Urner Alps is Wendenstock group, a huge wall with loads of difficult rock routes. Technically it is a sport climbing venue, but bolts tend to be few and far between. The wall does not have much of anything below upper grade 6 and climbing is usually very much run out.
- Southern Urner Alps
- Tieralplistock-Gelmerhörner chain Westernmost north south chain of southern Uri Alps. West side is readily accessible from the road Haslital - Grimselpass - Rhônetal either directly or from the side valleys. Gelmerhörner ids the most important climbing venue.
- Dammastock chain Next nort-south chain to the east of Tieralplistock-Gelmerhörner chain. Dammastock is the highest peak in Uner Alps. Besides Dammastock, peaks to the south of it and readily accessible from Furkapass are very important climbing objectives. Galenstock, Gross and Chly Bielenhorn sand Gross and Klein Furkahorn each has classic routes.
- Sustenhorn- und Bergseeschijen chain North-south chain immediately to the south of Sustenpass. The ridge extends to the northern bank of Göscheneralpsee and divides the northern side of Göschenertal into Chelenalptal (west) and Voralptal (east).
- Fleckistock-Salbitschijen chain Northeastern groups of southern Uri Alps. Located to the south of Sustenpass group and east of Sustenhorn group. The highest peak of the chain is Fleckistock located in the middle of the chain. However, by far the best known climbs in the group are those on Salbitschijen, well accessible from Salbit hut in Göschenertal.
- Gletschhorn-Schöllenen chain Southern west-east chain rising to the east of Galenstock, north of Furkapass - Andermatt road and south of Göschenertal. The highest point of the chain is Gletschhorn, not far from where the chain joins north-south chain between Dammastock and Galenstock. The peaks along the ridge get lower towards East. Schöllenen is a pass between Andermatt in the south and Göschenen in the north. Most climbing is to be found of the south side of the ridge above Furkapass and road to Andermatt. Albert Heim hütte is the most convenient point of access for most climbs, most easterly are more convenient from the road by Real.
- Col du Pillon
Balmhorn hut (Balmhornhütte)46.4513897.6894441956
Mönchsjochhütte (Mönchjochs hut)46.5547228.0055563627
- Rhône valley
Hollandia hut (Hollandiahütte, Lötschen hut)46.4757.9633333240
- Furka pass
Hotel BelvédèreLocated by the road a bit below Furka pass on Rhônetal side, at the entrance to Rhônegletscher.
About climbing in the area
Bernese Alps is a remote area by European Alps standards. Approaches are often long and total ascents between 1500 and 2000m from the hut to summit are not rare.
The area offers a wealth of good climbs, in particular for those interested in traditional alpine mountaineering on ice and mixed routes. Even the easier routes, require some alpine experience, as many of the routes traverse long and complex glacial terrain. Popular peaks include Jungfrau, Eiger, Mönch and Finsteraarhorn, all of them having several routes with normal routes graded between PD and AD. Middle grade classics include Mitteleggi Ridge of Eiger and Nollen on Mönch. There's host of other fine routes graded around AD and D. Schreckhorn, reputably the most difficult 4000m peak in Bernese Alps, features good rock unlike most other big mountains of the range, and has several high quality routes predominantly on good rock.
Bernese Alps has the finest concentration of major ice and mixed routes in the Alps. Although there are several higher peaks in the Bernese Oberland, no other climb is nearly as famous as the Eigerwand, the north face of Eiger. With it's 1800 height and notoriously bad weather, it is probably the most legendary climb of the Europe. It's first ascent in 1938 marked a major milestone in alpine climbing. Even today, it is a serious undertaking.
Other classics among the big routes include Lauper routes on Jungfrau, Eiger and Mönch. Lauterbrunner Wall, consisting of north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebneflüh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Lauterbrunner Breithorn, has host of routes, some of these objectively serious. Particularly Grosshorn is a huge climb. Fiescherwand offers similar type on climbs.
Even though the rock quality on big mountains is generally not very good, there is also fine rock climbing in the area. Best known areas for rock climbing are Grimsell Pass, Leysin, Engelhorner group, Salbitschijen and Argentine. Bernese Oberland also has plenty of high quality ice climbing in the frozen waterfalls and several of the hardest new-style mixed climbs are located in the area. Central for waterfall ice and mixed climbing is Kandersteg.
Switzerland has a good rescue system. It does come with considerable cost though, be sure to have valid insurance.
- Alpine distress signal
- 6 x within a minute with regular intervals, give some sort of visual or acoustic signal. Then pause for a minute and repeat the signal until you get an answer. To answer: 3 x within a minute - one minute pause.
- Rescue services
Schweizerische Rettungsflugwacht, Zürich (pref)+41 1 383 1111
Alarmzentrale für den Kanton Wallis (pref)+41 27 22 5656
Several grading systems are used depending on the type of climbing:
- Alpine climbs
- G-grade is the most common system used to grade alpine climbs. Several climbs have been graded using international French adjectival system as well.
- Rock climbs
- For alpine rock routes UIAA grade is used. Standard aid climbing grade is used when appropriate.
- Ice & mixed
- For moderate and middle grade climbs, most common way is to express the steepness either as maximum or average angle of the slope. For the difficult routes, WI grading is used, usually as two-part variation (including commitment grade). For mixed stuff, some modern routes sometimes use M grades for mixed sections, which certainly tells a lot more about the actual demands met by a climber rather than more commonly used normal rock grade. British guidebooks sometimes use Scottish winter grade.
Guidebooks and maps
Authoritative guide to the area is Swiss Alpine Club's Clubführer, available in six volumes both in German and French. Best maps are Swiss Landeskarte maps available in 1:25 000.
- Swiss Landeskarte: 1249 Finsteraarhorn1:25 000
- Swiss Landeskarte: 1250 Ulrichen1:25 000
- Swiss Landeskarte: 1269 Aletschgletscher1:25 000
- Swiss Landeskarte: 1229 Grindelwald1:25 000
- Swiss Landeskarte: 264 Jungfrau1:50 000
- Swiss Landeskarte: 266 Nufenenpass1:50 000
- Swiss Landeskarte: 5004 Berner Oberland1:50 000
- Berner Oberland
- Alpes Et Préalpes Vaudoises - Gummfluh, Les Diablerets Et Dents De Morcles. Isbn: 9783859022911. SAC-Verlag, 2011.:
- Alpinführer/Clubführer Berner Voralpen - Von Gstaad bis Meiringen, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859021655. SAC-Verlag, 1997.:
- Kletterfuhrer Berner Voralpen, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859021747. SAC-Verlag, 1998.:
- Wildhorn, Wildstrubel, Blüemlisalp - Vom Sanetsch Zum Petersgrat (BE 1/2), 1. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783859023208. SAC-Verlag, 2011.:
- Berner Alpen, Bd.3 - Bietschhorngruppe, Breithorngruppe, Nesthorngruppe, Schinhorngruppe, Aletschhorngruppe, Eggishorngruppe, 6. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783859021334. SAC-Verlag, 1994.:
- Alpine Touren Jungfrau-Region, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859023086. SAC-Verlag, 2010.:
- Berner Alpen 5 - Von Grindelwald zur Grimsel, 6. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783859021556. 1996.:
- Gotthard - von der Furka bis zum Lukmanier. Isbn: 9783859021495. SAC-Verlag, 2005.:
- Urner Alpen 2 - Göscheneralp - Furka - Grimsel. Isbn: 9783859022225. SAC-Verlag, 2003.:
- Urner Alpen 3 - Vom Susten zum Urirotstock, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783859021723. SAC-Verlag, 1999.:
- SAC Hochtouren Berner Alpen, 2., Überarbeitete Auflage. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783859022546. SAC-Verlag, 2006.:
- Bernese Alps East - Mönch, Eiger, Flescher, Finsteraar, Schreck, Lauteraar, Wetterhörner, Obernaar, Grimsel. Isbn: 0900523271. Alpine Club, 1979.:
- Bernese Oberland (Alpine Club Guides), 3rd edition. Isbn: 0900523646. Alpine Club, 2003.:
- Berner Alpen - Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Kletterer. Vom Sanetschpaß zur Grimsel., 10 überarbeitete Auflage edition. Isbn: 3-7633-2415-1. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1995.:
- Hochtouren Westalpen - Band 1 - 86 Fels- und Eistouren zwischen Tödi und Grand Combin. Isbn: 9783763330287. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2007.:
- Berner Alpen, Hochtouren Topoführer - 70 Klassische Hochtouren in Fels Und Eis Zwischen Les Diablerets Und Grimsel. Isbn: 9783952400906. Topo Verlag, 2012.:
- Schweiz Plaisir WEST, 1., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087399. Filidor, 2012.:
- Schweiz Plaisir SELECTION, 1., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087405. Filidor, 2012.:
- Interlaken Vertical. Isbn: 9783906087467. Filidor, 2013.:
- Schweiz Extrem West, 1., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087344. Filidor, 2010.:
- Schweiz Extrem OST. Isbn: 9783906087436. Filidor, 2013.:
- Schweiz Plaisir ALPIN, 2., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783906087313. Filidor, 2008.:
- Salbit Erleben!. Isbn: 9783906087214. Filidor, 2004.:
- Best of Genuß - Alpine Genussklettereien Von 3 Bis 6, Band 3. Isbn: 9783936740387. Panico Alpinverlag, 2007.:
- Best of Keepwild!climbs. Isbn: 9783936740332. Panico Alpinverlag, 2006.:
- Alpine Ice - The 600 Best Ice Falls In The Alps. Isbn: 9788887890839. Versant Sud, 2009.:
- Hot Ice - Eisklettern In Der Schwiez. Isbn: 978-3-033-00635-5. Panico Alpinverlag, 2005.:
- Hot Ice, Cold Rock - Mixedklettern & Drytooling In Der Schweiz. Isbn: 978-3-033-00330-8. Panico Alpinverlag, 2004.:
NW corner of the group is formed by the road from Aigle in Rhonetal via Château-d'Oex - Saanen (Gstaad) - Simmental - Spiez on the southern shore of Thunersee. Another road from Forent de Mimont to Gstaadt via Les Diablerets 'inside' the main road. Furthermore, one large side valley from Gstaadt.
Rock climbing in Sanetsch pass area is probably the most interesting climbing attraction of the area. Tour d'Ai and les Diablerets has several via ferratas as well.
Col du Pillon
- Plaisir West 2006 #19, #22-25
- Best of Genuss 3 C1-2
- Hot Ice #73
- Plaisir Selection #19
- Leysin. At Mountain Project.
- Les Diablerets. Listed as Col du Pillon in Plaisir West. Mostly multi-pitch routes of 3 to 10 pitches in 2 sectors. Grade range 5c to 6c. Other routes on the wall are indicated in the Plaisir guidebook, usually meaning harder routes will be found in the specialised guidebooks. Stays wet for a long term after rain. At UKC Climbing.
Valley from Gstaadt towards SE leading to north side of Wildhorn. To the NW, Gastlosen chain has plenty of rock climbs.
- Plaisir West 2006 #34-38
- Best of Genuss 3 B
- Hot Ice #72
- Plaisir Selection #22
- Gastlosen. A crinkly limestone ridge with bolted single and multipitch routes on both sides and an excellent ridge climb. At UKC Climbing.
Upper part of Simmental with city of Lenk near the end of the valley. Not too far from Adelboden (Entschligental) but no direct connection between the two except fro walk though high mountain pass. NW side of Wildstrubel.
SW of Spiez.
- Plaisir West 2006 #26
- Hot Ice #71
Valley system SW of Spiez on the southern shore of Thunersee. The main valley contains Reichenbach in Kandertal, Frutigen and Adelboden at the end of the valley. There are two large side valley towards SE, Kienertal from Reichenbach in Kandertal and Kandertal from Frutigen.
Weöö known skiing resort Adelboden is the center of the valley. Guring the winter the valley has ice climbing, despite it not being as imposing or famous as neighboring Kandertal. Moderate Lurking Fear (III WI3+, 120m) is a classic.
- Hot Ice #69-70
- Sertori Switzerland #3
Centrally located in the valley is small city of Kandersteg (1176m). Kandersteg is logistically very important, as it is a station on Lötschberg train which crosses the Berber Alps chain and proving direct access to Brig in Rhonetal.
Kandersteg area is world-famous among ice climbers as one of the absolute hot spots. There is a great concentration of very difficult ice and mixed routes on the steep faces of Breitwanflüe and Ueschinen. Probably the most famous pure ice routes are Crack Baby (IV WI6, 340m) and Beta Block Super (V WI7 X, 285m).
Trekking connection through Gemmipass to Leukerbad accessible from the south side of the group.
Most important mountains accessible from Kandersteg are those on Balmgorngrouppe (NW and NE sides the massif), Doldenhorn and Blüemlisalp.
- Plaisir West 2006 #44-47
- Plaisir Selection #23
- Hot Ice #59-67
- Sertori Switzerland #2
- Best of Genuss 3 #I14
Gspaltenhorn NW side is the dominating peak from the valley. Some climbs on Blüemisalp-group are accessible from the valley as well as from Kandertal. It is also possible to gain Kanderfirn from the valley to gain north side climbs on Tschingelhorn.
Jungfrau area is mainly accessed from Interlaken, either through Lütschental (Grindelwald (1034), Wengen) or Lauterbrunnen (795m, Stechelberg (910m), Gimmelwald (1303m)). Many of the climbs make use of Jungfraujochbahn, that leads from Lauterbrunnen via Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch (3454). It is possible to get to Jungfraujoch also from Lütschental by taking Wengeralpbahn to Kleine Scheidegg. This makes many climbs located quite a distance away (like Finsteraarhorn and Aletschhorn) still practical from this side, keeping in mind that alternative access is long as well.
Obvious attraction of the area are the big three Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger. Also Wetterhorn is very prominent from Grindelwald, perhaps even more so than Eiger north face. For connoisseurs of hard mixed climbs, Lauterbrunner wall and Fiescherwand both have lot of big routes on mixed terrain.
- Plaisir West 2006 #48-50
- Hot Ice #58
- Jungfrau group
- Blümisalp group
Grindelwald (1034m) is the most famous base for climbing in Bernese Alps. Due to Jungfraubahn can be used to access most climbs on 4000m peaks and many other popular climbing destinations.
- Best of Keepwild #8
- Plaisir West 2012 #47-48
- Best of Genuss 3 #I13
- Plaisir Selection #24
- Wetterhorn group
- Schreckhorn group
- Finsteraarhorn group
- Fiescherhorn group
- Jungfrau group
The valley towards SE from the eastern end on Grienzersee (Brienz). The valley forms NE border of Bernese Alps separating it from Urner Alps located to the east of the valley.
The road through the valley forms eastern north south connection. From there the road leads via Meiringer and Innertkirchen to Grimselpass from where the road descents to Rhone valley. From the descent, another road climbs towards NE to Furkapass. Two relatively short side valleys towards SW from Meiringer and Innertkirchen and a major side valley towards East from Innertkirchen to Sustenpass.
The valley is mostly known rock climbs on Engelhörner, Gelmerhörner, Bächlital and Grimselpass areas as well as Sustenpass in Gadmertal.
- Plaisir West 2006 #51-62, #63-65
- Best of Keepwild #9
- Plaisir Selection #25, 27-32
- Plaisir West 2012 #49-62
- Hot Ice #55-57
- Best of Genuss 3 #H27-29
Northern of SW side valleys from Meiringer. Access to NW side of Engelhörner.
- Plaisir Selection #25
- Best of Genuss 3 #I10-12
Southern of SW side valleys from Innertkirchen. Access to SE side of Engelhörner, Bärglistock, Ewigschneehorn, Bächlistock, Gross Diamanstock and Ritzlistock. Grëbenhütte is located in the valley serving as the primary base for accessing the climbs. The valley is mostly trad climbing destination. The following are considered to be the classics of the valley:
- Kleiner DiamantstockNordgrat
- Grosser DiamantstockOstgrat
- Ritzlihorn3282mEast ridgeÄrlengrätliTD-; V
- Best of Keepwild #9
- Gebietsführer Gruebenkessel
Eastern side valley of Haslital, towards NE from Handegg. Gelmerhütte is the base in the valley. Rock climbing on Gelmerhörner are the most famous climbs from the valley, particularly on traverse Chlys Gelmerhorn - Grosses Gelmerhorn. The valley also provides access to Gwächtenhorn, Diechternhorn and Tieralplistock located on the long north-south chain of Gelmerhörner-Tieralplistock.
- Gelmerhörner. Multi-pitch and single pitch "Plaisir" routes starting at altitude 1960m to 2600m and in the grade range 4a-6a. Most routes realistically accessed from a stay at the Gelmerhütte, some routes before the hut do-able in a day from the road. At UKC Climbing.
Relatively short western side valley of Haslital between Handegg and Grimselpass. The valley has Bächlitalhütte and several rock climbs, most famous of which being Gross Diamanstock.
- Best of Genuss 3 #I7-9
- Plaisir Selection #30-31
- Bächlital. 5 Sectors near the Bächlital-Hütte with single pitch and mostly multipitch sport routes covering mainly the grades 4a to 6a+. The Diamantstock is also approached from the hut. At UKC Climbing.
The largest and longest valley system towards west from Haslital, just north of Grimselpass. The lower part of the valley contains Grimselsee, the upper valley consists of Unteraargletscher and still further up Lauteraargletscher (north) and Finsteraargletscher (south). The valley provides access to east sides of Schreckhorn and Lauteraarhorn as well as NE side of Finsteraarhorn.
- Best of Genuss 3 #H1-6
- Plaisir Selection #32
The very natural southern border of the group is very big Rhone valley running all the way from Lac Leman to Simplonpass. There are some shorter side valleys towards north, but only very few with the roads. The biggest are the one north from Leuk with Leukerbad and particularly Lötschental north from Gampel. The latter is located opposite Kandersteg and is used to access Lötschberg train connection.
Rhone valley is is very large with several cities including Montreaux, Aigle, Martigny, Sion, Visp, Brig and Fiesch before the valley reaches it's end below Simplon and Furka passes, the former on the north and the latter on the east side of the upper valley.
- Plaisir West 2006 #14-21, #27 #31, #33
- Best of Keepwild #4-6, #7
- Best of Genuss 3 #D3-9
- Switzerland's Rhone Valley (from Lake Geneva to Martigny). Geneva airport sees a constant stream of climbers arriving from all over the world, with the majority heading straight for Chamonix or the alpine ranges of Valais. Very few stop to sample the little known crags around the Rhone valley in Switzerland, between Lake Geneva and Martigny. The climbing in the Rhone valley is worth knowing about for a couple of reasons. By Ian M at UKC Climbing on 2012-03.
Important col between Les Diablerets (Alpes & Prealpes Vaudoises) in the west and Wildhorn-group in the east. Road from Sion in Rhonetal. No road connection to north side of the group albeit Gsteig along the road from Les Diablerest via Col Pillon and Gsteig to Gstaadt is close enough to make ther pass accessible for walkers also from the north side. Lot of rock climbing.
- Plaisir West 2006 #26
- Best of Genuss 3 D5
- Plaisir Selection #20
- Sanetsch. At Mountain Project.
- Sanetsch. Perfect, rough and steep limestone with many gouttes d'eau. Mostly between 4-10 pitches long. Grades starting at around 6a, up to 7c. Also single pitch sectors with easier routes, 4a to 5c+. At UKC Climbing.
Lötschental north from Gampel and opposite Kandersteg and is used to access Lötschberg train connection. The longest road accessible side valley from Rhône valley into Bernese Alps. South side climbs on Tschingelhorner, Lauterbrunner Breithorn, Grosshorn and Mittaghorn, as well as north sides of Schinhorn, Lötschentaler Breithorn and Bietschhorn are accessible from the valley.
The largest glacier system in the Alps with numerous side arms. The upper reaches of the glacier system gives access th many of the highest and most famous peaks of Berner Alps, namely, Mittaghorn, Äbeni Flue, Gletscherhorn, Jungrau, Mönch, Fiescherhorner and Gross Grünhorn. Most climbers approach the upper valleys from Jungfraujoch train station from where the approach is far shorter. Further south, Aletschhorn in the west and Grosses Wannenhorn form borders of the valley before it widens at glacier junction known as Konkordia. Alettschhorn is the highest and most famous climb from the lower valley.
Area around Overaletschhütte has rock climbs on southern side branches, particularly on Weisshorn-Torberh and Fusshörner chains.
Fiesch (1049m), located 25km NE of Brig is the most important base for climbs on Central Bernese Alps from south. It can be used to access Aletschgletcher and Fieschertal/Fieschergletscher.
Grosses Wannenhorn, Gross Grünhorn, Fiesgerhörner, Finsteraarhorn, Oberaarrothorn
Access into SW corner of Urner Alps. Between Gelmerhörner-Tieralps chain in the west and Dammastock-Galestock in the east.
Brünigpass - Vierwaldstättersee
West and northern borders of northern borders of Urner Alps. Not particularly well-known alpine climbing from the valley.
- Best of Genuss 3 E
- Plaisir Selection #39,40
Large north-south valley reaching into the center of northern Urner Alps from Vierwaldstättersee. Engelberg at the end of the valley is the center in the valley. By far the most famous peak from Engelberger Tal is Titlis. Getting to the top is easy with a cable car, but the peaks has several rock climbing routes as well, including some very difficult ones. During the winter the valley has quite a bit of ice climbing on frozen waterfalls. Furthermore, Graustock Nordwand ha big ice/mixed routes.
- Plaisir Ost 2001 #27-34, 39
- Hot Ice #49-53
- Sertori Switzeland #3
Large valley to east of Innertkirchen rising to Sustenpass between Titlis in the north and Sustenhorn in the south. Plenty of rock climbing in Sustenpass area.
- Plaisir Ost 2001 #1-7
- Best of Keepwild #11
- Hot Ice #46
- Plaisir Selection #26
- Best of Genuss 3 #H1-8
North-south valley from Altdorf at the southern end of Vierwaldstättersee, Wassen, Göschenen and Andermatt. The valley forms natural border between Urner Alps in the west and Glarus Alps in the east.
Furka pass leads to Andermatt in Göschenertal. It is very popular for alpine rock, as the area has excellent rock and lower altitude means warmer temperatures and much easier approaches due to lack of big glaciers. Particularly Salbitschijen is very popular destination. There are several huts in the valley, of which Salbithütte and Bergseehütte are of greatest interest as means to access most popular climbing objectives.
- Plaisir Ost 2001 #21-26
- Best of Genuss 3 H9-15
- Plaisir Selection #37-38
- Hot Ice #47
- Plaisir Ost 2001 #9-19
- Best of Keepwild #12
- Best of Genuss 3 H16-26
- Plaisir Selection #33-36
- Furka Pass. The Furka pass provides a connection between central Switzerland on its east side and the Valais to the west. The road itself is paved, and is generally open to traffic from the early/mid summer until late autumn, depending on weather conditions. On the east side of the pass, there are numerous superb venues for mountaineering activities. At Mountain Project.
- Furka. At UKC Climbing.
- Schoellenen. Nice straightforward multipitch sport routes all with abseil descents. Busy road at the bottom spoils it a bit, although it does mean quick access! At UKC Climbing.
Alpes & Préalpes vaudoises
The highest mountain in the canton of Vaud.
Normal route. Glacier, I F/E1; I; 400/550m.
- Wildhorn (3248m46.3545087.360725)
- North summit (3246m)
Wildgrat (North ridge)
Wildgrat (North ridge)
. G4/PD; III; 1540m, 3-3,5h. 1882-07-27First ascentA. von Bonstetten, Fr. Streckeisen, C. Jilggi & J. Jilggi, 1882-07-27.
Germannrippe (NNE rib)
. G4/D; IV-; 1540m, 3h. 1924-07-16First ascentK. Germann & W. Dilrrenmatt, 1924-07-16.
The rib falling from P2949 on Wildgrat. Most difficult of classic routes on Wildhorn.
From Wildhornhütte (Normal route)
, G2/F/PD; 1540m, 3-3,5h. 1884-09-10First ascentG. Studer, A. Schlippiand & a local shepherd, 1884-09-10.
- Wildstrubel (Lenkerstrubel) (3243m46.4002787.528611)
- Mittlerer Gipfel (3243m)
- Grossstrubel (3243m)
Easy routes from Wildstrubelhütte, Engstligenalp and Lämmerenhütte. Often climbed with skis during the spring. Steep 500m faces towards north and NW. Due to poor rock, difficult rock routes on East ridge and North face are not recommended.
From Lämmerenhütte (Normal route, East flank)
. G2/F/E1; 780m, 2,5-3h. 1858-09-11First ascentT. Hinchliff, L, Stephen & M. Anderegg, 1858-09-11.
- Westalpen I #2
- Munter #159
Westernmost of the big peaks in Berner Alps. Three popular ridges and steep icy north face. Of the ridges, Gitzigrat (SE) is the most difficult and probably also the most famous climb. Balmhorn is connected to Altels (3629m) with a sharp firn ridge, which is not too difficult to cross (most commonly staring from Balmhorn).
Nordflanke (North face)
Left-hand border is formed by Wildelisigrat and right hand side is north face of Altels (easier alternative to Balmhorn north face).
Nordflanke (North face)
, G7/D-; avg. 45°; 1750m, 8-9h from Balmhorn hut. 1937-07-14First ascentP. Desaules & E. Seiler, 1937-07-14.
Very nice ice route.
Wildelisigengrat (NE Ridge)
, G4-5/AD; III, mostly II; 7h from Balmhorn hut. 1901-07-12First ascentH. Biehly, H. Seiler, A. Miller sr. & A. Miller jr., 1901-07-12.
Classic and popular route, poor rock.
Gitzigrat (SE Ridge)
Gitzigrat (SE Ridge)
. G5/III AD+; III+/4b, 50°; 6-7h from Gitzifurgge. 1886-07-29First ascentH. Dilbi, L. Liechti, C. Hari & H, Hari, 1886-07-29.
Classic. Interesting and popular climb.
Zackengrat (SW Ridge)
Zackengrat (SW Ridge)
, G2-3/II PD-; 40°, I; 1600m, 5-6h. 1864-07-21First ascentF. Walker, H. Walker, L. Walker, M. Anderegg 6amp; J. Anderegg, 1864-07-21.
From Hotel Schwarenbach via Zackenpass (3036m).
- Westalpen I #3
- Munter #301
Located to NW of Balmhorn and connected to it by sharp firn ridge, most commonly climbed from Balmhorn to Altels.
. G3/AD-; I; 1,5-2h. 1874-07-08First ascentH. Lohnert, F. Wyss-Wyss, A. von Steiger, F. Ogi & H. Hari, 1874-07-08.
firn ridge connecting Altels to Balmhorn. possible in both directions, but more commonly climbed from Balmhorn to Altels.
Located in Balmhorn group, to the east of Gemmipass and west of Balmhorn (connected to it with Zackengrat). Covered in firn towards north (Kandersteg) while south face facing Leukerbad is steep and rocky.
East Spur (Ostgrat)
. G5-6; III+; 2-3h from Zuckenpass.
Stone fall danger.
. G7-8; 8h from Hotel Schwarenbach.
. II PD/G2; 4,5h.
Normal route. From Ridersattel between Rinderhorn and Klein Rinderhorn (3003m). Also ski route.
- Klein Doldenhorn (3475m)
- Doldenhorn (3643m46.4685477.734953)
- P.3480 (3480m)
One of the most interesting peaks in Bernese Alps. North side is completely glaciated while south side is almost glacier free with wild rock faces. Galletgrat is one of the best firn ridges and north face respectively one of the better ice faces in Bernese Alps. South Ridge (G7/D, IV) not recommended due to rock fall.
Completely glaciated face above Oeschinensee by Kandersteg. Both Galletgrat and Nordwand are classic routes.
Galletgrat (NNW ridge)
, III AD+/G5; III/AD/55°, III/II,A0; 5-6h from Fründen hut in good conditions and if there's ready spur. When blank ice or no spur 7-8h (G6). 1899-07-19First ascentJ.Gallet, J.Kalbermatten & A.Müller, 1899-07-19.
Classic. One of the finest ice routes in Bernese Alps.
Nordwand (North Face)
, III D+/G7; 50-55°; 600m/1100m 8-10h from Fründen hut. 1954-07-08First ascentM. Bachmann & S. Plietz, 1954-07-08.
Classic. Classic ice face, relatively popular.
East Ridge (Ostgrat)
. G8/D+; V-; 8-10h. 1923-08-05First ascentE. Bitrke & O. Bitrke, 1923-08-05.
From Fründenjoch (2987,) to P3411 and point where the ridge joins with Galletgrat. Steep rock on the lower part, corniced firn ridge in the upper.
. II PD/G2-3; 45°; 1700m, 5-6h. 1862-06-30First ascentE. von Fellenberg, A. Roth, C. Lauener, J. Bischoff, K. Blatter, G. Reicher & two porters, 1862-06-30.
- Blüemlisalp (3664m)
- Weisse Frau (Wyssi Frau) (3650m)
- Morgenhorn (3623m)
Blüemlisalps group consists of three main peaks: Blüemlisalp, Weisse Frau and Morgenhorn. Peaks are completely covered in firn towards north and NW (Blüemisalpgletscher), while south face of 900m rock face above Kanderfirn with loose rock. S-rippe of Morgenhorn is the only recommended route on the south face of the group due to rock fall danger. Traverse of the three main peaks is a classic (G5-6). Normal routes on all three main peaks are along their NW ridges, none of which is overly technical.
. G3/AD; II; 4h. 1860-08-27First ascentR. Liveing, L. Stephen, J. Stone, M. Anderegg, F. Ogi & P. Simond, 1860-08-27.
Normal route. Via Rothornsattel.
, G6/AD+; 55°, II; 450m, 2-4h, 4,5-6,5h round trip. 1924-07-01First ascentW. Amstutz, W. Richardet & H. Salvisberg, 1924-07-01.
Average angle is 45 degrees but there are significantly steeper sections.
. G5-6/AD; 50°, II; 1100m, 10-12h.
Classic. Traverse of all three main peaks starting with Morgenhorn NW ridge, then following the ridge over Weisse Frau to Blüemlisalp. Reputedly one of the best climbs of the grade in whole of the Alps, much finer climb than Rochefort arete.
Weisse Frau (Wyssi Frau)3650
Climbed as part of traverse of Blüemlisalp main peaks.
Easternmost main peak in Blüemlisalp group. Popular ski ascent from Blüemlisalpshütte along the normal route. East ridge (G6-7, IV) is one of the big ridge climbs in Bernese Alps.
. G3/PD; 800m, 4h. 1869-08-14First ascentH. Baedecker, J. Bischoff & U. Lauener, 1869-08-14.
Normal route. Climbed as part of traverse of Blüemlisalp main peaks.
. D-/E5/G5; 3c/III, 45°; 600m, 4h. 1933-09-08First ascentW. Gerber & A. Miller, 1933-09-08.
Famous routes are SW ridge (Rote Zähne) and NE face.
1600m mixed face, one of the biggest faces in Bernese Alps. Several routes on the face (1932 Welzenbach, 1951 Direkt)
NE face Direct
. G12/ED1; IV+, 60°; 1600m, 15h. 1951-07-30First ascentR. Schatz, E. Reiss & E. Haltiner, 1951-07-30.
. TD; 60°; 1600m. 1932-09-07First ascentWillo Welzenbach, A. Drexel & E. Schulze, 1932-09-07.
East Ridge & Southeast Face. D; IV+; 6h. 1932-09-05First ascentO. Brügger & H. Kohler, 1932-09-05.
SW ridge (Rote Zähne)
SW ridge (Rote Zähne)
. G7/D/TD; IV; 6,5h, 10-12h from the hut. 1914-07-14First ascentS. Herford, G. Young, H. Brantschen & J. Knubel, 1914-07-14.
NW ridge (Leiterngrat)
. G4/II PD+/AD-; II; 2,5h, 4h from the hut.
Normal route. Via Büttlassensattel.
Biethschhorn, Breithorn, Aletschhorngruppen
One of the most spectacular peaks in Bernese Alps. No easy routes to the summit. The most popular one is west ridge from Biestchhornhütte. North ridge aside, all other routes on the peak are on pure rock. Huge 900m face towards south. SE riudge is one of the big ridge routes in bernese Alps, comparable to East ridge of Doldenhorn and NE ridge of Jungfrau.
North Ridge (Nordgrat)
, III AD+/G5; III or IV/3c; 5,5h from Bietsjoch (approach 1,5h from Bietschhorn hut, 2565m), 6h from Baltschiederjoch (2783m). 1859-08-13First ascentL. Stephen, J. Siegen, A. Siegen & J. Ebner (from Bietschhorn hut), 1859-08-13.1866-07-10First ascentD. Freshfield, C. Tucker, F. von Allmen & F. Devouassoud (Baltschiederklause hut), 1866-07-10.
First ascent route, pitons present.
NW Face. 7-9h.
, G6-7/IV AD+/D-; IV- (passages) and III/4b; 7-8h from hut. 1878-07-25First ascentC. Dent, J. Oakley Maund, J. Jaun & A. Maurer, 1878-07-25.
, G8/TD-; V; 10-12h. 1932-08-11First ascentF. Kast & W. Stosser, 1932-08-11.
. G8-9/D+; V-; 8h. 1947-08-21First ascentG. de Rahm & A. Tissières, 1947-08-21.
WSW Ridge (Westgrat)
, IV AD/G5; III, 35°; 540m, 3,5h. 1867-08-19First ascentE. von Fellenberg, P. Egger, P. Michel, A. Siegen & J. Siegen, 1867-08-19.
Normal route. Mostly on rock. Most popular route on the mountain.
- Munter #751
- Westalpen I #7
Breithorn (Lötschentaler Breithorn)46.4189447.8939443784
Not to mix up with Lauterbrunner Breithorn (located opposite site of Lötschental) or Walliser Breithorn located close to Zermatt.
Nordwand. Mixed, TD; 50-55°, IV; 700m. 1936-06-18First ascentW. von Allmen & E. Feuz, 1936-06-18.
, PD-/G3-4; 5h. 1869-08-28First ascentJ. Haberliwith, A. Weissenflub, J. Weissenflub & J. Rubin, 1869-08-28.
Normal route. Via Beichgletscher, east glank & SE ridge.
. D/G6-7; V-; 6-8h. 1922-08-29First ascentE. Blanchet & P. Zurbriggen, 1922-08-29.
. PD+; 6-7h. 1898-08-14First ascentG. Yeld, F. Pession & S. Pession, 1898-08-14.
Welzenbach (North face original route)
, G11/TD/TD+; 65°, avg. 55°; 900m, 10-12h. 1933-07-25First ascentWillo Welzenbach, A. Drexel & E. Schulze, 1933-07-25.
Crux is the rock island in the central part of the face. Ice fall danger.
Nordostgrat (NE Ridge, NNE Ridge)
. G5-6/AD+/D-; III; 8-9h. 1874-08-27First ascentR. Dumford, T. Hammond, A. Pollinger & A. Ritz, 1874-08-27.
SE Ridge (Südgrat)
. G7/AD+/D+; IV and II; 12h from Belalp hotel, 10h from Oberaletsch hut. 1895-09-04First ascentJ. Hopkinson, E. Hopkinson, G. Lowe, C. Slingsby & a porter, 1895-09-04.
, G3/III PD+; 35°; 6-7h from Oberaletsch hut (2640m). 1865-09-18First ascentB. George, H. Mortimer, Ulrich Almer & Christian Almer, 1865-09-18.
Normal route. Almost purely on snow and ice. Beichgletscher - Gredetsjoch (between Lötschentaler Breithorn and Nesthorn) - Westgrat.
- Aletschhorn (4195m)
- NE summit (4087m)
Second highest mountain in Bernese Alps. Located in the the southern chain a bit isolated from the other 4000 peaks and surrounded by Aletschhorngletscher, the longest glacier in the Alps. 400m or more higher than any of the surrounding peaks. Normal route is from Oberaletschhutte over SW ridge. Ice routes on the north face, particularly Harler-rib and Nordflanke are classic ice routes.
Aletschhorn, , Event
E. Nugee, M. Cababem Rudolf Kaufman & Peter Schlegel
Aletschhorn, SE face and NE ridge, First ascent
|SE face and NE ridge: F. Tuckett. J. Brennen, P. Bohren & V. Tiarraz|
Aletschhorn, SE ridge, First ascent
|SE ridge: E. Eggel von Blatten, M. Jossen & E. Ruppen|
Aletschhorn, NE ridge (over Dreieckhorn), First ascent
|NE ridge (over Dreieckhorn): T.L. Browne, P. Bohren & P. Schlegel|
Aletschhorn, SW rib, First ascent
|SW rib: L. Liechti, A. Kummer & a porter|
Aletschhorn, Westnordwestgrat, First ascent
|Westnordwestgrat: W. Coolidge, W. Larden, C. Almer & R. Almer jr.|
Aletschhorn, Hasler Rib, First ascent
|Hasler Rib: G.A. Hasler & party (earlier ascent of rib only)|
4km wide and 19000m high north face above Aletschfirn. Several grandes courses, the safest and most popular of them being Hasler-rib.
Hasler Rib (NE Spur)
, AD+/G5-6; 50°, II; 700m to NE Ridge, further 500m to summit. 7-8h from Lötschen hut, 0,75h longer from Konkordia hut. 1902-01-01First ascentG.A. Hasler & party (earlier ascent of rib only), 1902.
Classic. Classic ice route on the left side of north face leading to Point 3718 on NE Ridge. Normal route from Lötschen & Konkordia huts, the most difficult of normal routes. Objectively safe.
- Munter #956
- Moran 9g
- Westalpen I #18
Nordflanke (North Face)
, D/TD/G7; 45-50 (much steeper crux)°; 1100m, 5-8h. Approach 1h from Hollandia hut. 1883-08-31First ascentE. Nugee, M. Cababem Rudolf Kaufman & Peter Schlegel, 1883-08-31.
Classic. One of the most interesting ice routes in Bernese Alps. The crux is a 10m ice wall (~70°) at 3800m.
NE ridge (over Dreieckhorn)
. PD+; 1780m, 7,5-9h. 1868-08-26First ascentT.L. Browne, P. Bohren & P. Schlegel, 1868-08-26.
SE face and NE ridge
. II PD/PD+/G3; 40°, I-II on the final ridge; 1190m, 4-5h. 1859-06-18First ascentF. Tuckett. J. Brennen, P. Bohren & V. Tiarraz, 1859-06-18.
Normal route. Easiest and shortest route.
. AD-/G4-5; II; 1600m, 7-8h. 1862-07-15First ascentE. Eggel von Blatten, M. Jossen & E. Ruppen, 1862-07-15.
SW rib (Südwestgrat)
, AD-/G4; II; 1700m, 7-8h. 1879-08-06First ascentL. Liechti, A. Kummer & a porter, 1879-08-06.
- Munter #949
- Moran 9c
- Westalpen I #21
Westnordwestgrat (WNW Ridge)
. AD+/D/G5; III; 6-8h from Oberaletsch hut. 1894-07-05First ascentW. Coolidge, W. Larden, C. Almer & R. Almer jr., 1894-07-05.
Fusshörner are a group of peaks located on the south ridge of the Gross Fusshorn.
WSW ridge and SW flank
. PD/G3; 4-5h. 1894-01-01First ascentMiss J. Hopkinson & C. Hopkinson, 1894.
WSW ridge integral
. IV AD+/G4-5; 4b/IV; 430m, 5-6h. 1949-04-16First ascentJ. Kuhn & H. Rothlisberger, 1949-04-16.
South ridge. AD; III; 5-6h. 1898-09-02First ascentG. Young & C. Ruppen, 1898-09-02.
. 5c; 14-18h. 1933-01-01First ascentJosef Imseng & Dr. Andras Seiler, 1933.
Complete traverse of Gross Fusshorn south ridge over all Fusshörner towers.
Tschingelhorn - Finsteraarhorn
Very popular peak and also recommended ski touring ascent from Lauchenalp. Often climbed in combination with Petersgrat Traverse from Lötschenpasshütte to Mutthornhütte (G5, III, 9-10h). very easy both from SW (Lötschenpass) and South (Kummenalps). Somewhat more difficult, but still non-technical along NW ridge from Gfällalp.
- Chly Tschingelhorn (3495m)
- Tschingelhorn (3577m)
NW and North aspects of the peak have few short mostly icy routes in AD-D range.
. D+/G5-6; 300m, 3-4h.
- Munter #609
- SAC Jungfrau #106.3
. G2-3/II AD-; 40°, II; 250/700m, 3,5h. 1865-09-06First ascentW. Hawker, H. Feuz, C. Lauener & U. Lauener, 1865-09-06.
Via col between Tschingelhörner.
- Munter #607
- SAC Jungfrau #106.1
Traverse of Tschingelhörner
Traverse of Tschingelhörner
. G3-4/E3; III; 3,5h.
Starting from Chly Tschingelhorn West ridge.
- Munter #610
- SAC Jungfrau #105.3,#106.1
Breithorn (Lauterbrunenr Breithorn)46.4784177.8765833782
Located on Lauterbrunner wall between Tschingelhorn and Grosshorn. Not to mix up with 4000m peak in Wallis and Kötschentaler Breithorn located on the opposite side of Lätchental in Bietschhorn group. South ridge is the longest and most prominent of three ridges.
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. 1200m rock and ice wall. Above Breithorngletscher.
North face original
. ED1; 60°; 1050m, 10-14h. 1932-09-14First ascentE. Schulze & Willo Welzenbach, 1932-09-14.
. G5-6/D; III+; 4-5h from Schmadrijoch (3337m), 10-12h from hut. 1896-08-02First ascentJ. Gallet, G. Kalbermatten, J. Kalbermatten & J. Rubin, 1896-08-02.
- Munter #617
- SAC Jungfrau #110.5
Chervetrippe (Östliche Nordwandrippe, Eastern rib)
. G7/D+; IV; 4,5h, approach 3,5h. 1924-08-12First ascentD. Chervet & R. Richardet, 1924-08-12.
- Munter #619
- SAC Jungfrau #110.4
. D+/G6; III; 12h from fafleralp.
- Munter #618
- SAC Jungfrau #110.7
. III AD+/G4; 3b/III-, 30°; 600/1000m, 2-3h from Wetterlücke, 5-6h from Mutthornhütte. 1865-07-31First ascentE. von Fellenberg, J. Bischoff, P. Egger, P. Infibnit & P. Michel, 1865-07-31.
Normal route. Via Wetterlücke.
- Munter #616
- SAC Jungfrau #110.1
- Grosshorn (3754m46.4870027.910053)
- Westgipfel (3671m)
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. North face consists of two faces separated by NW Ridge; North Face to the left of the ridge and NW Face to the right. NW Face appears rocky, but there's a hidden couloir through steep upper section.
Lauper Route (West Summit N Face Rib, NW rippe des Westgipfels)
, TD/G8; V (1 pitch); 1500m, 9-10h from Schmadri hut. 1921-07-26First ascentH. Lauper & M. Liniger, 1921-07-26.
Big mixed route.
- Munter #629
- SAC Jungfrau #114.7
Feuz - von Almen (Nordwand)
. TD/G10-11; average on 1000m 53°, 2 pitches 55-60°; 1200m, 10-12h. 1934-07-01First ascentFeuz & von Almen, 1934-07.
One of the biggest and most difficult ice routes of Bernese Alps, most climbed route on the face. Often blank ice, ice fall danger.
, TD+; M4/60°; 1200m, 12-15h. 1932-07-27First ascentA. Drexel, H. Rudy, E. Schulze & Willo Welzenbach, 1932-07-27.
Classic ice route.
Via Neerlandica (NW Face)
, TD-; 50-80°; 9h. 2000-05-01First ascentHaegen & Schif, 2000-05.
Mixed, varied snow & ice.
North Ridge via Mittaghorn (NE ridge from Grossjoch)
. G6; 6,5-8h.
. G3/AD; 7,5h from hotel Fafleralp, 6h from Lötschen hut. 1885-08-12First ascentE. Burckhardt, O. Schifferdecker, J. Rubin, P. Schlegel & K. Schlunegger, 1885-08-12.
- Munter #626
- SAC Jungfrau #114.1
. TD/G7; V; 2h.
Traverse from west summit. Until wets summit AD.
- Munter #628
- SAC Jungfrau #114.4, #114.5
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. NW face of main summit is slightly easier than north face of West summit.
, D/G5; IV; 2h from Äbeni Fluejoch, 4-4,5h. 1897-07-27First ascentJ. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten & C. Kaufmann, 1897-07-27.
- Munter #639
- SAC Jungfrau #116.7
Nordwand (North face of West summit)
. ED1; V; 750m, 9-12h from Schmadrihütte. 1977-07-02First ascentPietro Zifiropulo & Hannes Stähli, 1977-07-02.
SE ridge (Anungrat)
. PD/G2-3; 2,5h from Lötschenhütte. 1878-08-19First ascentCharles Montadon, A. Ringier & Adolf Rubin, 1878-08-19.
Normal route. Via Lötschenlücke (3164m).
- Munter #636
- SAC Jungfrau #116.1
Ebneflüh (Ebnefluh, Ebeni Flue)46.5079687.9535983962
- Ebneflüh (Ebnefluh, Ebeni Flue) (3962m46.5079687.953598)
- Westgipfel (3811m)
West summit rises barely from the ridge connecting the two summits.
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. Classic 900m high and 600m wide north face above Rottalgletscher which is often climbed, objectively safe and often in good condition. North face of west summit is substantially rockier. That aside the face is of uniform steepness (avg. 52 degrees) and lacks distinct features, therefore separating different routes doesn't really make much sense.
. D/G6; III, 55°; 7-8h from Rottalhütte. 1924-07-16First ascentJ. Farrar, F. Wills, P. Almer sr., P. Almer j. & P. Boss, 1924-07-16.
- Munter #652
- SAC Jungfrau #122.5
Aschenbrenner-Mariner (North Face)
, IV TD-/G7-8; 50-55°, avg. 52°; 750m, 4-6h. 1937-01-01First ascentPeter Aschenbrenner & Wastl Mariner, 1937.
Fine ice route, if cornices not present, objectively safe. The face is 600m wide with constant angle, route line as conditions suggest.
- Munter #653
- Vanis #39
- Berner Alpen 4 #172
- SAC Jungfrau #122.4
Nordwestgrat (Roti flue)
. G7/TD; III; 8h from Rottalhütte. 1922-08-18First ascentO. Hug & H. Lauper, 1922-08-18.
- Munter #651
- SAC Jungfrau #122.3
. G2/PD; 30°; 3h from Hollandiahütte. 1868-08-27First ascentThomas Lioyd Murray Browne, Peter Bohren & Peter Schlegel, 1868-08-27.
Normal route. From Lötschen hut via SW Slope and in upper part along SE Ridge. Crevasses. Popular ski mountaineering route during winter.
- Munter #646, #647
- SAC Jungfrau #122.1
North face (Nordwestwand)
Part of the famous Lauterbrunner wall consisting of the north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Breithorn. 1000m north face, reportedly comparable to Matterhorn north face.
, ED; 55-60°, III; 1050m, 10-16h. 1931-09-10First ascentWillo Welzenbach, A. Drexel, H. Rudy & E. Schulze, 1931-09-10.
Famous and serious route in the northern part of the face. Not climbed anymore. Over 1000m high mixed route.
, TD+/ED1/G11-12; 55°, V; 10-12h from Rottal hut. 1945-07-16First ascentE. Reiss, H. Etter & F. Jaun, 1945-07-16.
Famous and serious. More direct line than the Welzenbach route. Over 1000m high mixed route. Rock and ice fall danger, more dangerous than Grosshorn Nordwand.
Carrington-Rouse. Mixed/ice, ED2. 1972-06-01First ascentRab Carrington & Alan Rouse, 1972-06.
North face Rib (Nordwandrippe zu P3889)
, TD; 12,5h. 1945-08-29First ascentE. Reiss & H. Etter, 1945-08-29.
. G4/AD; III-; 2h from Lauitor. 1897-07-26First ascentMme Gallet, M. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten & C. Kaufmann, 1897-07-26.
. G5/D-; IV-; 6h from Konkordia hut, somewhat shorter from Lötschen hut. 1919-07-09First ascentR. Hodel, H. Lamper & H. Rey, 1919-07-09.
WSW Ridge (Westgrat)
. G3-4/PD; II; 2h from Gletscherjoch. 1867-08-15First ascentJames John Hornby & Christian Lauener, 1867-08-15.
- Munter #660
- SAC Jungfrau #124.1
- Jungfrau (4158m46.5387.9637)
- Wengen Jungfrau (4089m)
- Silberhorn (3695m)
The highest peak in Lauterbrunner-Grindelwald area and part of the famous three of Bernese Alps together with Mönch and Eiger. Jungfrau was the second 4000 meter peak in the Alps to be climbed. The famous railway inside the mountains end at Jungfraujoch (3454m), which greatly shortens the access to east side of the peak. SE ridge via Rottalsattel is the normal route and very popular.
North face rises whopping 3000m above the ground of Lauterbrunnen valley.
, G7/D+; 50-55°; 480m/1400m, 8-10h from Guggi hut. 1865-08-29First ascentH. George, G. Young, C. Almer, U. Almer sr. & H. Baumann, 1865-08-29.
Fine but serious ice route route on the hanging glacier of North Face.
Nordorstgrat (NE ridge)
. D+/G8; IV/V-; 760m, 7-9h from Mönchjoch, 8-10h from Jungfraujoch. 1911-07-30First ascentA. Weber & H. Schlunegger sr., 1911-07-30.
- Munter #1097
- Moran 8b
- SAC Jungfrau #206.8
Normal route from Rottalsattel (SE ridge)
, G3-4/Rus 2B-3A/II AD; 55°, III; 850m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch. 1811-08-03First ascentJohann Rudolf Meyer, Hieronymus Meyer, Alois Volker and Joseph Bortis., 1811-08-03.
Normal route. Classic snow/mixed climb from Jungfraujoch via Rottalsattel and SE Ridge.
- Westalpen I #14
- Moran 8a
- Munter #1090
- SAC Jungfrau #206.1
Innerer Rottalgrat (SW Ridge)
. III D/G5; III; 1400m, 6-7h from Rottal hut. 1885-09-21First ascentF. von Allmen, U. Brunner, F. Graf jr., K. Schlunegger & J. Stager, 1885-09-21.
- Moran 8c
- Munter #1094
- SAC Jungfrau #206.3
The face has several extreme routes like Schäli-Weber (ABO, 90) and Siegrist-Weber (ABO, M6+, 75).
Lauper route (Nordwestflanke)
. TD/G9-10; 55°, IV; 9-10h from Silberhorn hut.
Classic mixed climb on NW Flank on Wengen Jungfrau.
- Munter #1098
- SAC Jungfrau #207.2
Rottbrettgrat (NW Ridge)
. G7/D+; III,A0/IV; 1500m, 8-12h from Silberhorn hut. 1926-08-24First ascentE, Gertsch, Ed Gertsch & F. Fuchs, 1926-08-24.
- Moran 8d
- Munter #1095
- SAC Jungfrau #206.6
. 7a; 300m, 16h. 1997-01-01First ascentSacha Wettstein & Andreas Leibundgut, 1997.
Combination of "Stägers Bürtblätz" (350m, 7a+) and "Fätze und Bitze" (300m, 7a). The Jungfrau is then reached along Rotbrättfgrat.
Central peak of the famous three. Three prominent ridges: West, SE and NE. Very popular climbing objective, particularly on West and SE ridges. Nollen is famous and reasonably popular mid-grade outing.
- Mönch - Mittelpunkt im Dreigestirn. Isbn: . AS-verlag.:
. TD-; 57, mostly 45°; 250m, 3h. 550m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch.
- Moran 7f
- Westalpen I #17
- SAC Jungfrau #216.21
. AD+; 5-6h from Möncjoch.
Most difficult of three main ridges.
Above Jungrfraufirn and Mönchjoch. Mönchjochshütte is located at the feet of SE ridge.
, II AD-/G3; II, 45°; 650m, 2,5-3h from Jungfraujoch, 450m, 2-3h from Mönchjochs hut.
- Moran 7a
- Munter #1104
- Westalpen I #15
- SAC Jungfrau #216.1
. D; 55°; 500m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch.
Climbs the obvious snow/ice ramp on the south face.
- Moran 7c
- Westalpen I #16
- SAC Jungfrau #216.2
. II AD; III+; 550m, 3-4h from Jungfraujoch.
- Moran 7b
- Munter #1105
- SAC Jungfrau #216.5
Difficult mixed routes at (TD and above).
Several mixed routes around 1200m and in TD-ED range.
Nollen (Nordwestbollwerk, NW Spur)
, III D/G6; III/AI2/60-65°; 1310m, 6-8h from Guggi Hut. 1866-01-01First ascentEdmund von Fellenberg, Christian Michel & Peter Egger, 1866.
Classic. Classic ice route on NW Spur. Best conditions normally during early summer, later often blank ice. possibly 10m of 75-80.
- Moran 7g
- Munter #1107
- Westalpen I #18
- SAC Jungfrau #216.10
Lauper route (Nordwandrippe)
, TD/G9; IV/V-, 60+°; 1200m, 10-12h from Guggi hut. 1921-01-01First ascentHans Lauper, 1921.
Classic. Big scale mixed route on famous north face.
- Munter #1108
- SAC Jungfrau #216.17
Switzerland, Bernese Alps.
Famous for its notorious north face (knows as Eigerwand). Eiger's 1800 meter high north face was called 'the last and most difficult problem in the Alps'. It is quite possibly the most famous climb in the Alps. Mitteleggiridge is popular mid-grade classic.
North Face plays central part in Clint Eastwood movie "Eiger Sanction".
Eiger, West Slope and West Ridge, First ascent
|West Slope and West Ridge: Almer, Barrington & Bohren|
Eiger, South Ridge, First ascent
|South Ridge: G.Faster, H. Baumann & U. Rübi|
Eiger, Mitteleggigrat, First ascent
|Mitteleggigrat: Amatter, Brawand, Maki & Steuri|
Eiger, Lauper route, First ascent
|Lauper route: J.Knubel, A. Graven, H.Lauper & Zürcher|
Eiger, SE Face, First ascent
|SE Face: O. Eidenshink, E. Möller, H. Rebitsch & L. Vörg|
Eiger, Original Route, First ascent
|Original Route: Andreas Heckmair, Ludvig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer & Fritz Kasparek|
Eiger, Harlin Direct, First ascent
|Harlin Direct: Dougal Haston, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel, Roland Votteler and Siegfried Hupfauer|
Eiger, Northeast Pillar, First ascent
|Northeast Pillar: Hiebeler, Messner, Messner & Maschka|
Eiger, North Pillar, First ascent
|North Pillar: Cielecki, Laukajtys, Szafirski & Zysak|
Eiger, Japanese Direttissima, First ascent
|Japanese Direttissima: Imai, Kato, Kato, Negishi, Hirofumi & Kubo|
Eiger, Northeast Pillar, First ascent
|Northeast Pillar: MacEacheran, McKeith & Spence|
Eiger, Czech Pillar, First ascent
|Czech Pillar: Smíd, Kysilková, Placheck & Rybicka|
Eiger, Czech Route, First ascent
|Czech Route: Smíd, Rybicka, Smíd & Flejberk|
Eiger, Geneva Pillar, First ascent
|Geneva Pillar: Hopfgartner & Michel Piola|
Eiger, Direct West Ridge, First ascent
|Direct West Ridge: Piola & Sprungli|
Eiger, North Corner, First ascent
|North Corner: Howald, Howald & Ruedi|
Eiger, Knez Route, First ascent
|Knez Route: Knez|
Eiger, Nordwand Westausläufer Schlupfloch, First ascent
|Nordwand Westausläufer Schlupfloch: Ochsner & Brunner|
Eiger, Ideal Direttissima, First ascent
|Ideal Direttissima: Pochyl|
Eiger, Piola-Ghilini Direttissima, First ascent
|Piola-Ghilini Direttissima: Rene Ghilini & Michel Piola|
Eiger, Spit Verdonesque Édenté, First ascent
|Spit Verdonesque Édenté: Maillefer & Steiner|
Eiger, Slovenian Route, First ascent
|Slovenian Route: Knez, Freser & Tic|
Eiger, Toni Hiebeler Memorial Route, First ascent
|Toni Hiebeler Memorial Route: Luke, Pitelka & Smid|
Eiger, Gelber Engel, First ascent
|Gelber Engel: Coubal & Coubal|
Eiger, Eigersanction, First ascent
|Eigersanction: Daniel Anker & Michel Piola|
Eiger, Löcherspiel, First ascent
|Löcherspiel: Daniel Anker & Gruber|
Eiger, Métanoïa, First ascent
|Métanoïa: Jeff Lowe|
Eiger, Le Chant du Cygne, First ascent
|Le Chant du Cygne: Daniel Anker & Michel Piola|
Eiger, Yeti, First ascent
|Yeti: Forlini & Faggiani|
Eiger, La Vida es Silbar, First ascent
|La Vida es Silbar: Daniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist|
Eiger, The Young Spider, First ascent
|The Young Spider: Steck & Siegrist|
Eiger, Deep Blue Sea, First ascent
|Deep Blue Sea: Rathmaier & Ruhstaller|
Eiger, Griff ins Licht, First ascent
|Griff ins Licht: Odermatt & Keller|
North face (Eigerwand, NW face)
Mega classic, the most famous north face in the Alps. North face has host of big mixed routes, all of them difficult. Geneva Pillar on the right side of the face is home to modern rock routes, that finish much below the summit.
Northeast Pillar (Messner Route, Austrian Route)
. TD; 1800m, 10-14h. 1968-01-01First ascentHiebeler, Messner, Messner & Maschka, 1968.
Griff ins Licht
. ABO; 7c, M5; 1800m. 2002-01-01First ascentOdermatt & Keller, 2002.
Northeast Pillar (Scottish Route)
. ED3; VI,A3; 1800m. 1970-01-01First ascentMacEacheran, McKeith & Spence, 1970.
North Pillar (Polish Route)
. TD; 5.7/V; 1800m. 1968-01-01First ascentCielecki, Laukajtys, Szafirski & Zysak, 1968.
700m to junction with Messner Route. One pitch of aid.
. ED; 5.10c/VII; 1800m. 1985-01-01First ascentKnez, Freser & Tic, 1985.
Harlin Direct (Harlin Direttissima)
. ED3/4/Rus 6B; V+,A3/M8- 5.11+/5.12- R, 85°; 1800m. 1965-01-01First ascentDougal Haston, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel, Roland Votteler and Siegfried Hupfauer, 1965.
- World Mountaineering #3
- SAC Jungfrau #302.51
. ABO; 5.10a,A3, 80°; 1800m. 1978-01-01First ascentSmíd, Rybicka, Smíd & Flejberk, 1978.
The Young Spider
. ABO; 7a,A2, WI6 M7; 1100m. 2001-01-01First ascentSteck & Siegrist, 2001.
. ED; 1800m. 1983-01-01First ascentPochyl, 1983.
. ED+/ABO; 7c+/8a/X-/VI,A2/5.9,A3/5.13b, M5; 1800m. 1969-08-15First ascentImai, Kato, Kato, Negishi, Hirofumi & Kubo, 1969-08-15.
Toni Hiebeler Memorial Route
. ED+; V+,A3, 80°; 1400m. 1985-01-01First ascentLuke, Pitelka & Smid, 1985.
Original Route (Heckmair route, 1938 route)
. V ED2/G14; V-,A0, 50-70°; 1800m, 20-30h. 1938-07-24First ascentAndreas Heckmair, Ludvig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer & Fritz Kasparek, 1938-07-24.
Classic. 1800m with almost 3000m climbing distance (numerous traverses). Often at least one bivouac necessary. Harrer's book 'The White Spider: The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger' recounts the first ascent.
- Westalpen I #8
- Munter #1141
- World Mountaineering #4
- SAC Jungfrau #302.30
'Sport climbing' sector of the north face. Routes generally stop at the end of difficult rock sections without going to the summit.
La Vida es Silbar
. ABO; 7c/7a,A0; 900m. 1999-01-01First ascentDaniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist, 1999.
. ED; 5.10a,A4/VI+,A4; 1300m. 1976-01-01First ascentSmíd, Kysilková, Placheck & Rybicka, 1976.
Geneva Pillar. ED2; 900m. 1979-01-01First ascentHopfgartner & Michel Piola, 1979.
. ED3/4; 6a,A3; 1400m. 1983-01-01First ascentRene Ghilini & Michel Piola, 1983.
- World Mountaineering #7
- SAC Jungfrau #302.33
. ABO; 6c/VII+/VIII-/5.11a; 1100m. 1988-01-01First ascentCoubal & Coubal, 1988.
. ED3; 6a+; 1200m, 1-2 days. 1981-01-01First ascentHowald, Howald & Ruedi, 1981.
. ABO-; 7c/7c+/6c+,A1/7c,A0/5.10a,A2/VIII-,A2; 1000m. 1998-01-01First ascentForlini & Faggiani, 1998.
Eigersanction. ED3; 7a; 1000m. 1988-01-01First ascentDaniel Anker & Michel Piola, 1988.
Le Chant du Cygne
. ED3/ABO; 7a/6b+,A0; 900m, 12-16h. 1992-01-01First ascentDaniel Anker & Michel Piola, 1992.
Spit Verdonesque Édenté
. ABO/IV 7a,A1; 8a; 300m. 1983-01-01First ascentMaillefer & Steiner, 1983.
Deep Blue Sea
. ABO; 7b+; 300m, 7-11h. 2001-01-01First ascentRathmaier & Ruhstaller, 2001.
. TD; 5.7/IV+; 650m, 3h. 1982-01-01First ascentKnez, 1982.
Nordwand Westausläufer Schlupfloch (Ochsner & Brunner Route)
. TD+; 5.9/VI-; 600m, 5,5h. 1982-01-01First ascentOchsner & Brunner, 1982.
. ED; 6a/b/5.10d; 350m, 4-6h. 1988-08-17First ascentDaniel Anker & Gruber, 1988-08-17.
NE face (Nordostwand)
, G12/ED-; V (mostly IV+, VI and III), 50-55°; 1700m, 15-18h. 1932-01-01First ascentJ.Knubel, A. Graven, H.Lauper & Zürcher, 1932.
Classic. Very long classic mixed route on the NE Face.
- Munter #1140
- World Mountaineering #1
- SAC Jungfrau #302.60
Mitteleggigrat (Mitteleggi Ridge)
, III D/G5/nccs IV 5.8,A0; IV,A0; 615m/820m, 4-8h from Mitteleggi hut. 1921-01-01First ascentAmatter, Brawand, Maki & Steuri, 1921.
Classic. Classic ridge route on the Northeast ridge.
- Munter #1136
- World Mountaineering #15
- SAC Jungfrau #302.1
Aside of classic routes, several modern routes.
. TD/G10; V+,A0; 10-12h. 1937-08-12First ascentO. Eidenshink, E. Möller, H. Rebitsch & L. Vörg, 1937-08-12.
- Munter #1139
- World Mountaineering #14
- SAC Jungfrau #302.6
. D/G4; III; 5-6h from Mönchjoch. 1876-01-01First ascentG.Faster, H. Baumann & U. Rübi, 1876.
The most achievable of the Eiger’s ridges. More popular as descent.
- World Mountaineering #12
- SAC Jungfrau #302.10
West Slope and West Ridge (West Flank)
. IV AD/G4; III-; 1650m. 6-8h in ascent, 3-4h in descent. 1858-01-01First ascentAlmer, Barrington & Bohren, 1858.
Normal route. Very long route with difficult route finding. Poor Rock.
- Munter #1131
- World Mountaineering #11
- SAC Jungfrau #302.13
- Walcherhorn (3692m)
- Gross Fiescherhorn (4049m)
- Kleines Fiescherhorn (Ochsen, Ochs) (3895m)
- Hinter Fiescherhorn (4025m)
Fiescherhörner is a group located on the Bernese Alps main crest to the east of Mönsch. Three main peaks rise on the main ridge: Walcherhorn, Gross Fiescherhorn and Ochsen. These form a 4km wide well over 1000m high barrier of steep rock and ice towards Griondelwald known as Fiescherwand. Fourth main peaks, Hinteres Fiescherhorn, is located on the SE ridge between Gross Fiescherhorn and Kleines Grünhorn.
Located on NW ridge of Gross Fiesherhorn (Walchergrat). Short and easy from Mönchjoch via Ewigschneefäld. Short mid-grade climbs on NW and West faces and West ridge. Regularly traversed as part of complete Fieschergrat.
From Mönchjoch via Ewigschneefäld
. F; 2,5-3h.
- SAC Jungfrau #401.1
- Munter #1321
Ascents are usually made via SW or SE Ridge starting from Mönchsjoch, Konkordia or Finsteraarhorn Hut. The real attraction of the peak is famous Fiescherwand, rising 1300 above the glacier and sporting several serious mixed routes. Rock quality is not very good.
Gross Fiescherhorn, , First ascent
|Christian Almer, Ulrich Kaufmann, A.W.Moore & H.B.George|
Gross Fiescherhorn, Südostgrat, First ascent
|Südostgrat: F. Bischoff, P. Bohren & P. Egger|
Gross Fiescherhorn, Fieschergrat, First ascent
|Fieschergrat: H. Wolly, C. Jossi & H. Kaufmann|
Gross Fiescherhorn, NE Rib, First ascent
|NE Rib: P. Schumacher & W. Amstutz|
Gross Fiescherhorn, Welzenbach, First ascent
|Welzenbach: Willo Welzenbach & H. Tillmann|
Fiescherwand (North face)
Welzenbach (North Face Direct)
. ED2; IV, 65°; 1300m, 10-12h. 1930-09-05First ascentWillo Welzenbach & H. Tillmann, 1930-09-05.
One of the hardest ice faces in the Alps.
NE Rib (Nordostrippe, Nordpfeiler zum Nordwestlichen Vorgipfel (P3804), North rib of Gross Fiescherhorn fore-summit)
, TD+/G9; IV+ (passages), mostly IV and III; 1000m, 8-12h. 1926-08-13First ascentP. Schumacher & W. Amstutz, 1926-08-13.
The easies route through 1250m high and 4km wide Fiescherwand to Point 3804. Objectiv safe except for summit cornice.
- Munter #1314
- SAC Jungfrau #402.2
Fieschergrat (NW Ridge, West flank & NW ridge)
. AD-/G4-5; 50-55°, III; 650m, 3-5h from Mönchjoch hut. 1887-07-31First ascentH. Wolly, C. Jossi & H. Kaufmann, 1887-07-31.
4km long mixed and ice ridge from Unteren Mönchsjoch. Often corniced.
- Moran 6c
- Munter #1312
- Westalpen I #26
, PD/G3-4; II and I; 780m, 4-5h from Mönchjoch. From Konkordia hut 1350m, from Finsteraarhorn hut 1000m. 1871-08-10First ascentF. Bischoff, P. Bohren & P. Egger, 1871-08-10.
Normal route. Glacier route from Mönchjoch hut. Also possible from Konkordia hut or Finsteraarhorn hut.
- Moran 6a,6b
- Munter #1312
- SAC Jungfrau #402.4
Kleines Fiescherhorn (Ochsen, Ochs)3895
Easy ascents from south side via Walliser Fieschergletscher (SE ridge from Fiescherjoch). NW face is part Fiescherwand. North ridge forms the left hand border of the face.
NE flank of Ochs
. AD+/G6; 5,5-7h from hut. 1920-08-05First ascentDe Villiers & Schwab, 1920-08-05.
- Moran 6e
- Munter #1328
- SAC Jungfrau #412.5
. ED1/G11-12; V, 75°; 1300m, 13-15h. 1935-08-09First ascentM. Lüthi & H. Steuri, 1935-08-09.
Direct route to the summit of Klein Fiescherhorn.
- SAC Jungfrau #412.3
- Munter #1333
Easy routes on SE ridge (AD), NW ridge (F) and SW rib (Konkordiahutte, PD). East ridge is significantly more difficult (D).
. PD; 3h.
- Gross Grünhorn (4044m46.5319448.0775)
- Grünegghorn (3863m)
. D/G6-7; III/IV-; 800m, 6-7h from Mönchjoch. 1907-08-04First ascentJ. Farrar & H. Reade, 1907-08-04.
Over Klein Grünhorn.
- Moran 5d
- SAC Jungfrau #407.3
- Munter #1279
East Pillar (Ostpfeiler)
. TD/G8; V-; 650m, 7-11h (actual climb), 1400m from the hut. 1967-07-27First ascentC Blum & U Frei, 1967-07-27.
- Moran 5f
- Munter #1283
- SAC Jungfrau #407.5
SE Ridge & Face
, D/G5-6; III; 1000m, 4-6h from Finsteraarhorn hut. 1913-05-26First ascentF. von Bethmann-Hollweg, O. Supersaxo & O. Supersaxo, 1913-05-26.
- Moran 5e
- Munter #1282
- SAC Jungfrau #407.7
SW Ridge from Finsteraarhorn hut (SE flank & SW ridge)
. G4; 1050m, 4-5h.
More recommended in descent. Bolts for rappel.
via Grünegghorn and SW Ridge
. II PD/G3-4; 40°, III- and II; 4,5-5h from Konkordia hut. 1885-08-07First ascentEdmund von Fellenberg, Peter Egger, Peter Michel & Peter Innit, 1885-08-07.
- Moran 5a
- Munter #1277
- Westalpen I #22
- SAC Jungfrau #407.1
West Ridge from Ewigschneefeld
. AD+/G4-5; 1600m, 6-7h.
Nordwestgrat (NW ridge)
. D/G6-7; IV (short passage), otherwise III; 750m, 3h from Lücke, 1200m7-7,5h from Konkordia hut (2850m), 3-4h from Klein Grünnhorn.
Separates Fiescherhorn-Grünhorn group in the north from Walliser Fieshorner in the south. The pass also acts as connection from Konkordia hut (west) to Fisnetraarhorn hut (east). Easy (F) from both sides.
Northernmost main peak of Walliser Fiescherhörner. Long east-west side ridge towards Konkordiahütte with Chamm (3866m) and Fülbärg (3242m). Normal route is via east flank and SE ridge (G4, 4h from Finsteraarhornhütte).
The peak has poor rock, so ridges are the only routes with alpinistic interest.
. G3-4; 4-4,5h.
- Munter #1196
- SAC Jungfrau #608.5
The highest peaks of Walliser Fiesherhörner. Mostly climbed during the winter using skis. from the east side
Nordflanke und Ostrgrat (Ostflanke)
. PD/G3; 4-5h.
- SAC Jungfrau #610.1
- Munter #1201
Lower and more southern than Gross Wannenhorn. Far more frequent climbing target during the summer. Alpinistically the most interesting feature is long SE ridge (Distelgrat), which has several rock climbs from Fieschertal. Normal route is North ridge (PD).
. D/G7; IV; 700m, 7h; 12-14h from Burghütte. 1935-01-01First ascentDiehl & Baumgartner, 1935.
- SAC Jungfrau #612.4
- Munter #1209
Distelgrat (SE ridge)
SE ridge is known as Distelgrat (Paroi du Slot). It has several difficult rock routes (french 6 and upwards), all accessible from Burghütte in Fieschertal. The complete ridge itself is D, 7-8h in descent. No complete ascent of the ridge is recorded.
, TD; 6b/6a,A0; 11 pitches.
Classic. Classic route on SW face of the ridge.
, II TD; 6a+; 400m.
Classic. Classic route on SE face of the ridge.
- Wannenzwillinge (3481m46.478758.103611)
- Wannenzwillinge (3430m)
Two sharp rock peaks located on continuation of Klein Wannenhorn South ridge.
Culmination point of Strahlgrat, which is continuation of Klein Wannenhorn South ridge.
Located NW of Finsteraarhorn. Easy from SE side (Agazzijoch). Very difficult north face.
. ED; 80°, V; 10-12h.
Highest mountain in the Bernese Alps. Standard Route via SW Face and NW Ridge was found in 1829. Se ridge is very long with multiple towers. It can be joined at various points. First ascent of ENE Spur was one of the most difficult routes climbed anywhere prior to World War I.
Finsteraarhorn, SE Ridge, First ascent
|SE Ridge: Alois Volker, Joseph Bortis & Arnold Abbühl. They belonged to Rudolf Meyer's team and used SE Ridge. Finsteraarhorn was the third 4000er in the Alps after Mont Blanc and Jungfrau.|
Finsteraarhorn, SW Face and NW Ridge, First ascent
|SW Face and NW Ridge: Jakob Leuthold & Johann Withren|
Finsteraarhorn, , Event
|18 years old Lucy Walker (UK) together with her father Frank and brother Horace (The highest point of Grandes Jorasses, 'Pointe Walker', is named after him)|
Finsteraarhorn, ENE Spur, First ascent
|ENE Spur: Fritz Amatter & Gustav Hasler|
Finsteraarhorn, , Event
|Christian Meisser made one of the pioneer features in history of extreme ski mountaineering as he skiied the 450 meter high couloir between Finsteraarhorn and Agassizhorn. The couloir is 46° steep for 300 meters.|
- Finsteraarhorn - Die Einsame Spitze. Isbn: . AS Verlag.:
ENE Spur (Ostsporn)
. ED/G9; IV+/V; 850m, 8-10h. 1904-07-08First ascentFritz Amatter & Gustav Hasler, 1904-07-08.
Elegant ridge route on good gneiss.
- Munter #1358
- SAC Jungfrau #503.6
Very long ridge that can be joined at various points. 2,5km from Gemslicke (3335m). The ridge has several towers: P3604, I Turm (3694m), II Turm (3787m), III Turm (3883m) and SE Vorgipfel (4167m). It is possible to gain the ridge at several points, probably the best option is at col 3527 between P3604 and I Tower.
SE Ridge integral
. D/G6-7; IV; 14-15h from Oberaarhütte.
- Munter #1357c
- Moran 4d
- SAC Jungfrau #503.10
. AD+; III, 50°; 1100m, 10-12h from the hut. 1812-08-16First ascentAlois Volker, Joseph Bortis & Arnold Abbühl. They belonged to Rudolf Meyer's team and used SE Ridge. Finsteraarhorn was the third 4000er in the Alps after Mont Blanc and Jungfrau., 1812-08-16.
Classic ridge climb. Joins the ridge by 2nd tower.
Südroute (Upper SE ridge)
. AD+; 1250m, 8-9h.
Joins SE ridge close to 3rd tower (3885m).
SW Face and NW Ridge
. AD-/G3-4/Rus 2A; II and I, 35°; 1250m, 4-5h in ascent, 2-2,5h in descent. 1829-08-10First ascentJakob Leuthold & Johann Withren, 1829-08-10.
Normal route. From Finsteraarhornhütte via SW Face and NW Ridge.
- Munter #1354
- Moran 4a
- Westalpen I #23
- SAC Jungfrau #503.1
NW ridge (Agazzigrat)
. AD; 1680m, 3-4h from Agazzijoch.
- Moran 4b
- SAC Jungfrau #5.03-2
Seen from Grindelwald blatantly obvious steep rock face (NW face). Much gentler and snowier from the east side. The first confirmed ascent from the Grindelwald side in 1854 is considered to have marked the start of the 'Golden Age' of alpinism.
NE Pillar. Rock, TD+; VI,A3; 25h. 1963-08-01First ascentM. Epp & J. Talbot, 1963-08.
North face Direct. Rock, ED2; V+,A1; 10-13h. 1954-08-13First ascentS. Abderhalden & M. Niedermann, 1954-08-13.
North face and NE flank. Rock, TD; IV+; 12h. 1929-09-10First ascentN. Finzi, J. Biner & J. Knubel, 1929-09-10.
West Pillar Direct. Rock, ED1; VI-; 1000m, 6-8h, 16-21h roundtrip. 1970-08-05First ascentP. Von Küneland & H. Trachel, 1970-08-05.
Normal route. Via Saddle 3055m north of Dossen and Rosenlauigletscher to Wettersattel.
Sichelgrat (SW ridge)
. D+/E5; V; 6-9h. 1928-08-24First ascentS. Uramatsu, S. Nrawand & F. Steuri, 1928-08-24.
, G3/AD-; 45°, III; 1370m, 6h. 1854-09-17First ascentA. Wills, A Balmat, A. Simmond, U. Lauener & P. Bohren, 1854-09-17.
Normal route. Via Willsgrlitli to Wettersattel where it joins with the route from the east (Dossen hut).
- Westalpen I #9
- Munter #1676
NW ridge (NW Ridge via Chrinne and Gutzgletscher)
, G5-6/AD+; III and II; 7h from Gleckstein hut. 1900-01-01First ascentJ. Farrer, D. Maquignaz & J. Koberbacher, l897-08-11.
Nice mixed route with a very good panorama to Grindelwald.
NW face. Mixed, AD+; III; 7h from Gleckstein hut. 1945-07-08First ascentR. Voillat, A. Voillat & H. Antibnit, 1945-07-08.
- Gstellihorn (2854m)
- Grosse Engelhorn (2782m)
- Urbachsengelhorn (2767m)
- Hohjegiburg (2639m)
- Kingspitz (2621m)
- Klein Simelistock (2384m)
- Gross Simelistock (2482m)
- Rosenlauistock (2198m)
4km long ridge between Reichenbachtal (NW) and Urbachtal (SE). Plenty of rock climbs, practically all of them from the west side (Rosenlaui, Engelhornhütte). Most popular climbing destinations are lower peaks of Rosenlauistock, Kingspitze, Simmelistock and Mittelgruppe.
The highest peak of the group but does not count among the most popular climbing destinations.
Nordorstwand (Via Steuri)
, III D+/TD; 5c/5b,A0/5.8/VI+/VII-; 550m, 5-7h. 1932-09-26First ascentHermann Steuri, M.Lüthy & H.Haidegger, 1932-09-26.
- Plaisir West 2006 52.11
- Best of Genuss 3 l12.1
Located on NW ridge of Gross Simelistock.
, II TD/nccs IV 5.10b; 6b; 400m, 13 pitches. 1900-01-01First ascentKaspar Ochsner.
Traverse from Klein Simelistock (2384m) to Gross Simelistock is quite possibly the most frequented route in Engelhörner group. Another classic is Gagelfänger on Klein Simelistock (II TD+, 6b))
Traverse from Klein Simelistock
, III AD; 4b/4a,A0/IV/5.4; 6-8h.
Most interesting feature is SW face with several rock routes. Classic routes are around 200m high and around 5c-6a, e.g. Haslizwerg (TD-, 6a+).
Largely a rock peak with good rock quality uncharacteristically good for high mountains of the area. Reputably the most difficult 4000m peak in Bernese Alps, easiest routes at AD+. Long approach to all routes, thus one of the most exacting peaks in the Alps. Most popular routes are from the south side.
Schreckhorn, , First ascent
|Leslie Stephen, Christian & Peter Micher & Ulrich Kaufmann|
Schreckhorn, Andersongrat, First ascent
|Andersongrat: J.St Anderson, G.P.Baker, U.Almer & A.Pollinger|
Schreckhorn, SW Ridge, First ascent
|SW Ridge: J.H.Wicks, E.H.F.Bradby & C.Wiloen|
Schreckhorn, South Pillar, First ascent
|South Pillar: |
Andersongrat (NW Ridge)
. AD+/D/G6-7; III, mixed; 1750m from the hut. 1883-08-07First ascentJ.St Anderson, G.P.Baker, U.Almer & A.Pollinger, 1883-08-07.
Most difficult and the longest of three classic ridges. From Gleckstein hut or Lauteraarhorn hut. 4-5h from Lauteraarhorn hut to Lauteraarsattel. From there first descent to Lauteraar glacier then ascent via Nässijoch (4-5h from the hut) and Andersongrat to summit (3h from Nässijoch).
NE Arete (Nordostkante)
, G7-8; IV (passages) and III, avg. 50°; 500m. 3-4h from the begin of the climb, 8-10h from Gleckstein and Lauteraarhorn huts.
Long and difficult mixed route.
. III AD+/G5; III+/IV-, 40°; 600m/1560m, 7-8h from Schreckhorn hut (2520m). Approach 1570m, 5-6h, with cable car 1160m, 4-5h. 1902-01-01First ascentJ.H.Wicks, E.H.F.Bradby & C.Wiloen, 1902.
Normal route. Schreckfirn - shoulder - SW ridge.
- Westalpen I #10
- Munter #1592
- Moran 2a
. D+/TD-; V; 600m, 5-6h (actual climb). 1955-01-01Schreckhorn, South Pillar, First ascent
Left side of the prominent couloir.
SE ridge (ESE ridge)
. AD+/G5; 50°, II.
Via Schrecksattel. From Schreckfirn to Schrecksattel (col between Lauteraarhorn and Schreckhorn, 3914m) either entirely via curved snowy couloir, over the narrow rock rib in the couloir or via Grosse Rippe on the left side of couloir above the upper part of the couloir. From Schrecksattel along SE Ridge to summit.
- Westalpen I #11
- Munter #1591
- Moran 2b
Traverse from Lauteraarhorn. IV; 5-6h summit to summit.
Lauteraarhorn is the southern high peak on the 10km Schreckhorn crest.
Lauteraarhorn, , First ascent
|Arnold Escher, Eduard Desor & Christian Girard|
Ostwandrippe (East Rib of NW Ridge (point 4011), ENE ridge if point 4011)
. D/G7-8; IV; 1000m/1600m, 10-12h from Lauteraar hut. 1907-01-01Lauteraarhorn, Ostwandrippe, First ascent
S Face Couloir and SE Ridge
. AD/AD+; avg. 40°, II+; 1300m, 5-6h from Aarbiwak (2731m), 1550m, 3h more from Lauteraarhorn hut. 1842-08-08First ascentArnold Escher, Eduard Desor & Christian Girard, 1842-08-08.
Normal route. Avalanche danger when new snow.
- Munter #1598
- Moran 3a
- Westalpen I #29
WSW Ridge (SW ridge)
WSW Ridge Direct (Westgrat)
. TD-/G8; V; 4-5h from Strahleggpass, 8-9h from the hut. 1930-01-01Lauteraarhorn, WSW Ridge Direct, First ascent
Splendid crack climbing on the summit wall. From Schreckhorn hut to Strahlegg Pass (3345m) and along the ridge to summit.
WSW Ridge with traverse to SE Ridge
. AD+; II; 1400m, 6-7h from Schreckhorn hut. 1885-01-01Lauteraarhorn, WSW Ridge with traverse to SE Ridge, First ascent
From below summit wall traverse along ledge system (II) to SE Ridge and along it to summit.
NW Ridge (Lauteraargrat)
NW Ridge (Lauteraargrat)
. D+/G7; IV; 4-5h from Schrecksattel, 5-6h from Schreckhorn summit. 1902-01-01Lauteraarhorn, NW Ridge, First ascent
Ewigschneehorn- & Bächlistock group
Ärlengrätli (East ridge)
. TD-; V. 1949-08-01First ascentO. Gerecht, H. Hitss, E. Meir & G. Strüssle, 1949-08.
Joins south ridge by P.3193. The start of the climb is at the deepest gap in the ridge between P.3193 m and Stampfhoren.
Ostgrat (East ridge)
, 370m, 7 pitches, 3-4h.
It is possible to gain Südwandpfeiler as a more difficult finish option.
Absolute classic is East ridge. Normal route via East face and south ridge is substantially easier (PD, II).
, II AD+/D-/G4-5; 4c/IV-V; 400m, 5-6h. 1km in length. 1911-07-04First ascentW. Preiswerk, H Zürcher, H. Baer & H. Anderegg, 1911-07-04.
- Plaisir West 2006 632 pp.299
- Munter #1946
- Best of Genuss 3 I8.1
Located near Finsteraarhorn. Popular panorama peak. Easy ascents along South and West ridges from Oberaarjochhütte.
. G1; 1,5h.
- Westalpen I #27
- Munter #1431
. G3; 6-7h.
- Munter #1421, #1425, #1432
Attractive and popular north face. Other routes on NE ridge, East ridge and south ridge are non-technical. NE ridge serves as the easiest means to get from Aarbiwak to Oberaarjoch hut.
North face (Nordwand)
650m face with average inclination of 52 degrees.
North face (Nordwand)
. G8/TD-; 70°; 650m, 6-8h. 1940-08-01First ascentP. Bonnant & L. Boulaz, 1940-08-01.
Long west-east chain from Oberaarrothorn towards Grimsel pass south of Oberaargletscher. The ridge is known as Aargat. Main peaks are Löffelhorn (3095m) and Grosser Sidelhorn (2879m). Ascent of Sidelhorn does not require climbing.
Northern Urner Alps
- Mähren (2970m)
- Pfaffenhuet (3009m)
- Gross Wendenstock (3009m)
- Chli Wendenstock (2957m)
- Reissend Nollen (3003m)
- Wendenstöcke. At Obsig.ch.
- Wendenstock. Probably Switzerland's most important crag. Miles of cliff up to 1000m high, mostly very solid. Bolted but sparsely, so friends and rocks are essential. The easiest routes start at about F6b, and that is "obligatory" At UKC Climbing.
- Tommy Caldwell - Sport Climbing is Neither. I think something was lost in translation. I vaguely remember hearing some kind of warning from Fabio when he recommended Portami Via. When I was 50 feet run out on bad rock pulling 5.12 moves I was pretty sure he was trying to kill me. By Tommy Caldwell at La Sportiva on 2013-03-14.
Westernmost major peak in Wendenstock group. Routes are long and difficult (starting at 7a+).
- Huge New 5.13 on the Immaculate Limestone of Wendenstock. Matteo della Bordella and Fabio Palma have recently completed the longest route at Wendenstock, the immaculate limestone escarpment of "Verdon quality" situated high above the village of Gadmen, west of the Susten Pass in the Titlis region of Switzerland. The area is world famous for its hard multi-pitch "alpine" sport routes and features a relatively long, steep and strenuous approach. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2008-08-22.
- Wendenstöcke – Ab ins Altersheim. By Marcel Dettling at Kletterblog on 2011-10-18.
Easternmost main peak in Wendenstock group. Most impressive feature is SE face with several difficult rock routes. North face is a lot easier.
North face. PD; 45°, I-II; 800m, 2,5h.
Millennium. Rock, 7b/6c,A0; 15 pitches.
, ED; 7a+/6c,A0/VIII+; 500m, 17 pitches, 9h. 1989-01-01First ascentRuth Baldinger & Kaspar Ochsner, 1989.
- Titlis (3240m46.7720578.437782)
- Klein Titlis (3062m46.7702388.425346)
Located in Glarus/Urner Alps above Sustenpass and city of Engelberg and lake Lucerne. There is a cable car from Engelberg to 3020m. Popular ski mountaineering destination. There used to be via ferrata on the south face. There are rock climbing routes both on south and north faces. Particularly the latter has some very difficult climbing.
Nordpfeiler. Rock, III-IV, 50°; 900m. 1932-01-01First ascentHess, 1932.
Piz dal Nas
, 8b; 500m.
Letzte Ausfahrt Titlis. Rock, 8b; 500m, 13 pitches. 2004-07-04First ascentStefan Glowacz & Markus Dorfleitner, 2004-07-04.
West Ridge. G1.
SW ridge. V; 910m.
Nordcouloir. D-; 45°, II; 910m.
Southern Urner Alps
West side. PD; II, 40°; 1000m, 3-4h.
NE ridge connects the chain with Dammastock chain in the east (Wysse Nollen, Eggstock).
- Gelmerspitze I (2778m)
- Gross Gelmerhorn (3139m)
- Chly Gelmerhorn (2631m)
- P2502 (2502m)
Gelmerhörner is a long north-south chain with numerous towers. Two main peaks of the chain are Grosses Gelmerhorn and Chlys Gelmerhorn, both locates close to southern end of the group. Northern part of the chain consists of Gelmerspitzen 1-7 (starting from the north). Generally climbing is of alpine character and bolts have been places with Spartan ethic. Main base for climbing in Gelmerhörner is Gelmerhütte. Most climbs are traverses covering either part of the ridge or the whole chain (possible in both directions). Most popular climb is traverse of Chly and Grosses Gelmerhorn from south. Also Rösti-pfeiler on P2502 is a classic.
Rock climbing peak from Haslital. Most commonly climbed as part of the traverse Chlys Gelmerhorn-Großes Gelmerhorn.
Chlys Gelmerhorn-Großes Gelmerhorn
Chlys Gelmerhorn-Großes Gelmerhorn traverse
. III D; IV/5a/5.5; 6h.
Southern Gelmerlücke (III/III+) - Chlys Gelmerhorn South ridge (IV/5.5) - Gelmerlücke - Großes Gelmerhorn (II). More difficult in reverse direction (V-/5.8).
, 6a. 1996-01-01First ascentSrefan Bucher, Rafael Perez & Gian-Andri Tannò, 1996.
- Hinder Gärstenhorn (3173m)
- Mittler Gärstenhorn (3189m)
- Vorder Gärstenhorn (3167m)
Southern part of Tieralplistock-Gelmerhörner chain. West side rises above Rhäterisbodensee, east side above Rhönegletscher opposite Furkahörner. Shortest approach is from Grimselpass in SW along broad ridge to the south side of the Vorder Gärstenhorn.
. PD; II; 1090m.
Normal route. Grimselpass - Nägelisgrätli - Grütlisee - Gärstengrat - Vorderes Gärstenhorn.
Non-technical ascents. Seldom climbed during the summer, more popular as ski mountaineering destination during the winter.
- Hinter Tierberg (3447m)
- Mittler Tierberg (3418m)
- Vorder Tierberg (3091m)
Tierberg peaks are fairly independent peaks and located some distance from each other. Particularly Vorder Tierberg is separated from the two more southernly Tierbergs by distinct col of Tierberglücke. All three peaks have long ridges towards West. West-East ridge East from Mittler Tierberg with Gwächtenhorn and Rotstock connects the chain with Sustenhorn chain in the east.
The highest peak in Urner Alps and entire Central Switzerland. North side involves climbing around uiaa III or IV, while ascent from south (Rhonegletscher) is non-technical. Popular ski mountaineering objective from Hotel Belvédère.
The ridge can be gained either at Südlicher Tiefensattel (3438m) or Nördlicher Tiefensattel (3334m). The former gain the ridge earlier and goes via Nördlicher Tiefensattel.
From Südlicher Tiefensattel
. I-II AD-; M1 AI1/35-40°; 1000m.
Together with Gross Furkahorn, probably the most famous and most alpinistically most important peak of Dammastock group.
- Plaisir Selection #34
- Best of Genuss 3 H23
- Galenstock. When you drive from the Wallis up the Rhone river to its source, there is one remarkable ice clad mountain in front of you, that will haunt you for a full hour: Galenstock. If you drive from Italy over the Gotthard pass, a different looking overwhelming shape shows, but it is still the Galenstock. It is the guardian of the Rhone glacier that is the source of one the main European rivers that flows into the Mediterranean near Marseille. At UKC Climbing.
- Galenstock, 3586 m. At Bergportal.ch.
On Dammastock main ridge from Südlichen Tiefensattel (3438m).
North ridge. AD-; 5h.
SE Spur. PD/AD; III+/IV.
. IV D+; 5a/4c,A0; 250m.
South side. PD; I+.
Galengrat (South ridge)
Along Dammastock main ridge from Galensattel (3113m). Two long side ridges towards SE: the northern one contains Bielenhörner.
, nccs III 5.9; 5c/5a,A0/V; 300m, 10 pitches. 1966-01-01First ascentH.P. Geier & D. Kienast, 1966.
- Plaisir Ost 2001 14.1
- Best of Genuss 3 H23.1
- Gross Bielenhorn (3206m)
- Chly Bielenhorn (2940m)
Short ridge SE from Galenstock. Not very prominent geographically but not Gross Bielenhorn and Chly Bielenhorn are well known and popular climbing peaks. Each has several classic routes. Most of the climbs are accessed from Sidelenhütte located to the SW of Bielenhörner. Peculiar looking Kamel towers are located on the ridge connecting Gross and Chly Bielenhorn.
Aside of classic SE ridge, climbs are to be found on SW face.
, II D+; 5c+/4c,A0; 450m, 3-5h.
- Best of Genuss 3 H22.1
- Plaisir Ost 2001 13.1
, III TD/nccs IV 5.10a/b; 6a+; 400m, 11 pitches. 1900-01-01First ascentMax Niedermann & Franz Anderrüthi.
West-east ridge which has wide and steep south face with several difficult rock routes. NW ridge connects the peak with Gross Bielenhorn. There are several prominent towers along the ridge, most recognizable of them being Kamel (2937m) which might look familiar to those who have seen advertising of Mammut.
Schildchrotgrätli (West ridge)
Schildchrotgrätli (West ridge)
, AD; 4a,A0; 250m, 2,5-3h.
- Best of Genuss 3 H21.1
- Plaisir Ost 2001 13.2
Wide rock face with several routes at french 6 and upwards. Perrenoud is the easiest and probably also the most popular.
, II TD/nccs III 5.10a; 6a/5b,A0; 200m, 8 pitches. 1957-01-01First ascentPerrenoud & Mottet, 1957.
- Gross Furkahorn (3169m)
- Klein Furkahorn (3026m)
Southernmost part of Dammastock chain consists of Gross and Klein Furkahorn. The peaks are connected with Sidelengrat, which is almost horizontal with no distinct cols. The peaks are located close to Furka pass and quite popular climbs from Sidelenhütte (east side). Both peaks also have a lot of shorter rock climbs on the lower reaches of the peaks.
- Plaisir Selection #33
- Best of Genuss 3 H25-26
Via Evalin (Ostwand-sporn)
. TD; 6a+/5c+,A0/VII; 250m, 11 pitches. 1994-01-01First ascentC. Müller, M. Fuchs, B. Wenger & Jürg von Känel, 1994.
. II AD+/D; 5b/4c,A0/5.6/IV+; 370m, 10 pitches, 3,5-4h. 1908-09-25First ascentA. Hitz & Thomas Montigel, 1908-09-25.
Most prominent of few eastern spurs.
- Plaisir Ost 2001 12.1
- Best of Genuss 3 H25.1
A lot of routes in three main tiers.It is possible to climb all the way to the summit by combining the routes from the tiers.
III. 1996-08-06First ascentAlmer & J.A. Luttman-Johnson, 1996-08-06.
Non-technical normal route from Furkapass along south ridge (F). SW side from hotell Belvédère has more technical alternatives (I-II ~AD, uiaa II-IV).
Westwandplatten (SW side)
Several moderate rock climbs (I-II ~AD, french 5 or below) and around 13 pitches long. Usually the routes arenot climned to the summit, although continuing to the summit from the routes is certainly possible. Probably the most classic of the routes is Kreuzbandweg
- Plaisir Ost 2001 11
- Best of Genuss 3 H26
Sustenhorn- und Bergseeschijen chain
Very long rock ridge crossing large glacier of Brunnifirn. Runs all the way down to P2654 both the lower part is not very steep.
. III AD/AD+; 3c/IV; 700m, 5h; 1400m, 6-7h from the hut.
gains the ridge from the left hand side bypassing the lowest section.
Glaciated face above Steingletscher. Most readily approached from Sustenpass.
. PD; 700m, 2,5h.
Three main ridges: North and SW ridges are on Sustenhorn group main ridge, (S)W ridge on the ridge connecting Sustenhorn group with Dammastock group.
. PD+; 40-45°, III.
Via Brunnenfirn and Chelenalplücke (3092m). the col be gained also from Voralphütte via Flachensteinfirn.
Southernmost major peak in the chain.
- Schijenstock (3161m)
- Bergseeschijen (2815m)
Southeastern part of Sustenhorn-Bergseeshijen chain. The peaks are not very big or otherwise geographically important, however there is plenty of rock climbing to be had on Schijenstock, Begseeschijen, Hochshijen and Gandschijen. The peaks are all readily accessible from Bergseehütte.
SE face has routes around 340 and 5-6 (french).
. PD; I-II.
Normal route. The easiest route and the most usual descent.
, III AD+; 4b/3c,A0; 750m, 5-7h. 1948-01-01First ascentO. Gerecht, A.E. Meier & F. Wörndle, 1948.
Over nine towers to summit.
- Best of Genuss 3 H9.1
- Plaisir Ost 2001 24.1
Located immediately to the north of Bergseehütte and Göscheneralpsee. Südgrat is popular climb. There is also several routes on East face above Bergseehütte.
Seberal routes both on Ostwand and Kleine Ostwand. Kleine Ostwand is lower (150m) and further away from the summit).
. 6a+; 11 pitches.
Most direct route on the face to the summit.
, II D-; 5a; 350m, 10 pitches, 2-4h. 1949-01-01First ascentBoller & Regli, 1949.
Several more difficult start variants (5a-6a).
- Plaisir Selection #38
- Best of Genuss 3 H10.1
- Plaisir Ost 2001 24.2
- Fleckistock (Rot Stock) (3417m)
Fleckistock (Rot Stock)46.7073618.4976673417
The highest peak of the chain, located in the center of the chain. Most commonly climbed from Voralp hut via SW side (PD). Traverse from Voralphütte via North ridge of Stucklistock - P165 - NW ridge of Fleckistock and descent from its SE ridge back to Voralphütte is fine ridge outing at AD. Also popular ski mountaineering objective.
Probably the most visited mountain of rock climbers in central Switzerland. Surrounded by many higher and more impressive mountains like Dammastock, Fleckistock, Sustenhorn etc. Three main ridges, all of which are classic climbs. South ridge is the shortest and most popular.
, IV/5a,A0; 800m, 19 pitches, 4-5h.
- Plaisir Ost 2001 22.11
- Best of Genuss 3 H13.5
, III D/TD-; 5c+/5b,A0/V; 500m, 17 pitches, 5-6h. 1935-08-16First ascentA. Amstad, O. Amstad, G. Masetto, 1935-08-16.
A sustained rock climb comparable with, but more difficult and more sustained than, the North ridge of Piz Badile.
- Plaisir Ost 2001 22.3
- Plaisir selection #37
- Best of Genuss 3 H13.1
, 6a-,A0/6a+; 7-9h.
Combination of Takala (5c+,A0), Südgrat (5c+/5b,A0) and Direkte Südwand (5c+).
, V TD/ED1; 6b/6a,A1/5c+,A1/VII/5.10; 1000m, 32 pitches, 12-16h. 1948-01-01First ascentB. Favre, E. Favre & L. Henchoz, 1948.
Three main ridges. West and East ridges are part of Gletschhorn-Schöllenen main ridge. South ridge is the most popular climb of the peak.
Fairly long ridge forming eastern bank of Tiefengletscher.
. III AD; 4c/3c,A0/IV+/V-; 370m, 11 pitches, 2-4h. 1907-01-01First ascentH. Kunze, J. Lochmatter & G. Lochmatter, 1907.
- SAC Urner 2 #413
- Best of Genuss 3 H19.1
- Plaisir Ost 2001 16.3
Minor bump on the ridge between Gletschhorn (W) and Winterstock (E). Despite this, South face is well known climbing venue, considered to be have some of the best climbs in Urner Alps.
Main climbing venue of the peak. Several steep climbs on excellent Urner granite. Short access from Furka pass road.
, IV TD-/nccs IV 5.9+; 5c+/VI; 400m, 11 pitches, 4-5h. 1964-01-01First ascentMax Niedermann & Werner Sieber, 1964.
- Plaisir Selection #35
- Best of Genuss 3 H18.1
- Plaisir Ost 2001 17.3
Famous climbs particularly on the south face of 1st tower.
- Winterstock South face. The south face of the Winterstock is a wonderfully tranquil, secluded venue, some distance from the popular hiking trails. It tends to be less crowded than other areas in the Furka region, perhaps due to the limited itinerary. The rock is impeccable granite, solid from bottom to top. At Mountain Project.
1st Tower, South face
- Plaisir Selection #36
- Best of Genuss 3 H17
, II TD/nccs III 5.10a; 6a/5c,A0; 200m, 8 pitches. 1900-01-01First ascentRuedi Büschlen, Gerhard Führer & Jürg von Känel.
The peak has three distinct ridges: very long North ridge (NW) to Göscheneralpsee, West ridge from Winterlücke (2854m) and SE ridge from Lochberghütte (2865m). Climbingwise the most important feature of the peak is SW face.
, I TD-/nccs III 5.10a; 6a/5c,A0; 300m, 7 pitches, 3h. 1958-01-01First ascentF. Haider & S. Inwylder, 1958.
- Best of Genuss 3 H16.1
- Plaisir Ost 2001 19.1
- Lochberg: Via Amici. At CampToCamp.org.
- Via Amici. The climbing is varied, on absolutely impeccable rock from start to finish. It is an absolute gem of a route, with a very consistent, moderate level of difficulty. The route has 7 pitches, primarily in the 5b range, with two short sections of 5c/6a climbing. At Mountain Project.