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Western Alps

General

• Donatsch Peter & Coulin David: Die schönsten Gipfelziele der Schweizer Alpen West - Zentralschweiz, Berner Oberland, Freiburg, Wallis, Waadt, 2. Auflage edition. AT Verlag, 2004. Isbn: 978-3855028115.

• Western Alps. Area page. At SummitPost.

Bernese Alps

General information

The Bernese Oberland is located in the north-western part of the Swiss Alps. Apart from a eight 4000m peaks it has many challenging summits above the 3000m mark. Although Finsteraarhorn is the highest peak in the area (4274m), the Bernese Alps are dominated by the famous trilogy of Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger. The area is highly heavily glaciated, in fact, around 25 km long Aletschgletscher, the longest glacier in the Alps, is found in the Bernese Alps. The center of Bernese Alps is Grindelwald (1034m). Jungfraubahn from Lauterbrunnen to Jungfraujoch (3454), the highest railway in the Europe, makes approaches to several climbs much shorter.

• Finsteraarhorn group
• Fiescherhorn group
• Wannenhorn group
• Eggishorn group
• Jungfrau group
• Petersgrat group
• Aletschhorn group
• Blümisalp group
• Bietschhorn group
• Schreckhorn group
• Wetterhorn group
• Ritzlihorn group
• Sustenhorn group
• Dammastock group

Logistics

• SAC Hütteninformationen

Climbing information

The area offers a wealth of good climbs, in particular for those interested in traditional alpine mountaineering on ice and mixed routes. Even the easier routes, require some alpine experience, as many of the routes traverse long and complex glacial terrain. Popular peaks include Jungfrau, Eiger, Mönch and Finsteraarhorn, all of them having several routes with normal routes graded between PD and AD. Middle grade classics include Mitteleggi Ridge of Eiger and Nollen on Mönch. There's host of other fine routes graded around AD and D. Schreckhorn, reputably the most difficult 4000m peak in Bernese Alps, features good rock unlike most other big mountains of the range, and has several high quality routes predominantly on good rock.

Bernese Alps has the finest concentration of major ice and mixed routes in the Alps. Classics among the big routes include Lauper routes on Jungfrau, Eiger, Mönch and Grosshorn and classic "Welzenbach" North Faces. Lauterbrunner Wall, consisting of north faces of Gletscherhorn, Ebneflüh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn and Lauterbrunner Breithorn, has host of routes, some of these objectively serious. Although there are several higher peaks in the Bernese Oberland, no other climb is nearly as famous as the Eigerwand, the north face of Eiger. With it's 1800 height and notoriously bad weather, it is probably the most legendary climb of the Europe. It's first ascent in 1938 marked a major milestone in alpine climbing. Even today, it is a serious undertaking.

Even though the rock quality on big mountains is generally not very good, there is also fine rock climbing in the area. Best known areas for rock climbing are Grimsell Pass, Leysin, Engelhorner group, Salbitschijen and Argentine. Bernese Oberland also has plenty of high quality ice climbing in the frozen waterfalls and several of the hardest new-style mixed climbs are located in the area. Central for waterfall ice and mixed climbing is Kandersteg.

Grading

Several grading systems are used depending on the type of climbing:

Alpine climbs

G-grade is the most common system used to grade alpine climbs. Several climbs have been graded using international French adjectival system as well.

Rock climbs

For alpine rock routes UIAA grade is used. Standard aid climbing grade is used when appropriate.

Ice & mixed

For moderate and middle grade climbs, most common way is to express the steepness either as maximum or average angle of the slope. For the difficult routes, WI grading is used, usually as two-part variation (including commitment grade). For mixed stuff, some modern routes sometimes use M grades for mixed sections, which certainly tells a lot more about the actual demands met by a climber rather than more commonly used normal rock grade. British guidebooks sometimes use Scottish winter grade.

• Grading

Rescue

Switzerlang has a good rescue system. It does come with considerable cost though, be sure to have valid insurance.

Alpine distress signal

6 x within a minute with regular intervals, give some sort of visual or acoustic signal. Then pause for a minute and repeat the signal until you get an answer. To answer: 3 x within a minute - one minute pause.

Telephone

• Switzerland +41

Rescue services

• REGA
  • phone (pref)+41 1 3831111, (cell) .
• Police
  • phone (pref)+41117.
• Schweizerische Rettungsflugwacht, Zürich
  • phone (pref)+41 1 383 1111.
• Alarmzentrale für den Kanton Wallis
  • phone (pref)+41 27 22 5656.

Seasons and weather

References

Authoritative guide to the area is Swiss Alpine Club's Clubführer, available in six volumes both in German and French. Best maps are Swiss Landeskarte maps available in 1:25 000.

• Swiss Landeskarte: 1249 (Finsteraarhorn), 1:25 000.
• Swiss Landeskarte: 1250 (Ulrichen), 1:25 000.
• Swiss Landeskarte: 1269 (Aletschgletscher), 1:25 000.
• Swiss Landeskarte: 1229 (Grindelwald), 1:25 000.
• Swiss Landeskarte: 264 (Jungfrau), 1:50 000.
• Swiss Landeskarte: 266 (Nufenenpass), 1:50 000.
• Swiss Landeskarte: 5004 (Berner Oberland), 1:50 000.

• Anker Daniel: Berner Alpen 1 - Sanetsch bis Gemmi. SAC Verlag.
• Blum Christoph: Berner Alpen 3 - Bietschorn, Lötschental, Breithorn, Nesthorn, Aletschhorn Group. SAC Verlag.
• Collomb Robin G.: Bernese Alps Central. The Alpine Club, 1979. Isbn: 0900523263.
• Collomb Robin G.: Bernese Alps East. The Alpine Club, 1979. Isbn: 0900523271.
• Hausman K.: Berner Alpen 4 - Tschingelhorn bis Finsteraarhorn. Swiss Alpine Club.
• Mosimann Uli: Berner Alpen 5 - Von Grindelwald zur Grimsel. SAC Verlag.
• Mosimann Uli: Hochtouren Berner Alpen - Auswahlführer. SAC Verlag, 1999.
• Munter Werner & Margit: Berner Alpen - Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Kletterer. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1995. Isbn: 3-7633-2415-1.
• Müller Jörg: Berner Alpen 2 - Gemmi bis Petersgrat.. SAC Verlag.
• Swindin Les: Bernese Oberland - Selected Climbs. Alpine Club, 2003. Isbn: 0900523646.

• Bernese Alps Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Bernese Alps at Peakware. Range page at Peakware.
• Bernese Oberland. Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.
• Grimsel Pass/Furka Pass. Fact Sheet by Irish Alpine Association.

Valleys

Jungfrau region

Jungfrau area is mainly accessed from Interlaken, either through Lütschental (Grindelwald (1034), Wengen) or Lauterbrunnen (795m, Stechelberg (910m), Gimmelwald (1303m)). Many of the climbs take use of Jungfraujochbahn, that leads from Lauterbrunenn via Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch (3454). It is possible to get to Jungfraujoch also from Lütschental by taking Wengeralpbahn to Kleine Scheidegg.

Lütschental

• Wetterhorn group
• Schreckhorn group
• Finsteraarhorn group
• Fiescherhorn group
• Jungfrau group

• Ski map Interlaken
• Panorama map Interlaken
• Grindelwald
• North side of Grindelwald (Schwarzhorn) ski map

• Grindelwald
• Mürren - Wengen

Lauterbrunnertal

• Jungfrau group
• Blümisalp group

• Ski map Interlaken
• Panorama map Interlaken
• Hiking map Gimmelwald
• Jungfrau

• Jungfraubahn
• Lauterbrunnen
• Mürren - Wengen

Kander/Kien/Lötschen regions

• Griesalp
• Kandersteg
• Kiental

high Rhône valley

high Aar valley

• Griesalp
• Haslital
• Kiental

Mountains

Finsteraarhorn group

Fiescherhorn group

Wannenhorn group

Eggishorn group

Jungfrau group

Petersgrat group

Aletschhorn group

Blümlisalp group

Bietschorn group

Schreckhorn group

Wetterhorn group

Ritzlihorn group

Sustenhorn group

Dammastock group

Cottian Alps

Cottian Alps are located between Maritime Alps in the south, Dauphiné in the east and Graian Alps in the north. The most important mountain of the area is pyramide-shaped Monte Viso (also known as Monviso, 3843m), located in Italy and part of the Queyras Mountains SE from the city of Briancon. South of Queyras lies Ubaye valley close to city of Barcelonnette. The highest mountains of this area is Aiguille de Chambeyron. South of Ubaye lies famous canyon Gorges de Verdon, a mecca for (sport) rock climbers.

• 3637 OT (Mont Viso). IGN.

• Cottian Alps. Area page. At Peakware.

Dauphiné (Ecrins Massif)

Dauphiné is a compact region of large peaks with long summit ridges, rising above long stony valleys. It is also known as Ecrins Massif. The area offers a wide selection of climbs of all grades from easy to long and serious. The crown of the area is Barre des Écrins, the only summit reaching magical 4000 meter mark (4101m). Other popular mountains are La Meije (3983m), Ailefroide (3954m) and Mont Pelvoux (3946m).

Convenient centres are are La Bárarde and Ailefroide. Nearest bigger city is Bourg d'Oisans. With the exception of ski lifts of La Grave, there are no telepheriques, thus walk-ins are often long. Season lasts from early July to early September. As elsewhere, first 2 weeks of August are very crowded, although not nearly as crowded as Chamonix. The range is far enough south that the Mediterranean has considerable climatic influence, and the weather is generally gentler than elsewhere in the high Alps. Forecasts can be gotten from Rescue Post near CAF Centre.

There are excellent middle grade mixed climbs, pure rock routes and some really serious difficult climbs, but it is also very suitable for a first season in the Alps. The gneiss of the Ecrins is not considered to be of best quality, but all the recommended rock-climbs are as solid as Chamonix. However, there are some big routes that are serious because of poor rock.

During the winter the Oisans region becomes one of the ice climbing meccas of the Europe. Most famous destinations for climbers in search of quality ice are L'Alpe d'Huez and especially La Grave.

• 3436 (ET Meije-Pelvoux), 1:25 000. IGN.
• 3537 (ET Guillestre, Vars, Risoul), 1:25 000. IGN.
• 3437 (ET Orcières-Merlette), 1:25 000. IGN.
• 3336 (ET Les Desux-Alpes Olon. Muzelle), 1:25 000. IGN.

• Brailsford John: Ecrins Massif, Cerces and Queyras - Selected Climbs. The Alpine Club, 2002. Isbn: 0900523638.
• Damilano Francois & Perroux Godefroy: Cascades - Oisans aux 6 vallées, Tome I. Ice Editions, 2000. Isbn: 2950986838.
• Damilano Francois & Perroux Godefroy: Cascades - Oisans aux 6 vallées, Tome II. Ice Editionsm, 2000. Isbn: 29500986846.
• Eberlein: Gebietsführer Dauphiné. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.

• Dauphiné. Range page at Peakware.
• High Dauphiné groups. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Massif des Ecrins - 1. La Berarde. Range page at Irish Alpine Association.
• Massif des Ecrins - 2. Ailefroide. Range page at Irish Alpine Association.

Valleys

Bourg d'Oisans

Access to NW side of the range is from Grenoble to Bourg d'Oisans. The main resorts there are l'Alp d'Huez and La Bérarde in the heart of Les Ecrins.

Alpe d'Huez

• l'Alpe d'Huez ski map

• cascades-infos.com. Information about the waterfall ice routes in Oisans (La Grave, l'Alpe d'Huez etc.).
• l'Alpe d'Huez

La Bérarde

• St Christophe en Oisans - La Bérarde

La Grave

Ski resort la Grave is the main center in the northern part of the area. The access is either from Grenoble or Briançon. Main peaks accessible from La Grave are La Meije and le Râteau. During the winter the valley is one of the premiere ice climbing spots in the Alps with great number of classic routes.

• La Grave - Ice Fall Paradise. By Jack Geldard & Tom Briggs at UKC Climbing on 2009-01-01.
• Téléphérique des Glaciers de la Meije
• cascades-infos.com. Information about the waterfall ice routes in Oisans (La Grave, l'Alpe d'Huez etc.).

Ailefroide

From Briançon drive up to Ailefroide, located to the East of the range. Access to Mont Pelvoux and Barre des Ecrins.

La-Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar

From Gap drive up to La-Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar, located to the south of the range.

Mountains

Graian Alps

Graian Alps are located along the Italian and French border between La Grave at the southwest and Aoeste at the northeast. They are due north of the Cottian Alps, northeast of the Dauphiné and southeast of Mont Blanc. The range includes two separate massifs, Vanoise in western part and eastern Graias, sometimes referred to as Gran Paradiso Group. The approach to the range is easiest from Val d'Aosta. Turin, Italy is a nearby major center.

Vanoise area has a lot to offer, particularly for those seeking to gain Alpine experience, or those looking for something a little less demanding than the Chamonix summits. A collection of peaks which includes a dozen summits above the 3550m mark and attains a maximum altitude of 3852m (Grande Casse), provides a good and varied selection of snow and mixed routes, with something for the novice and experienced alpinist alike. The whole area is criss-crossed by a network of excellent paths, making access to the mountains a simple matter and providing a number of attractive routes for the mountain walker. Pralognan and Val d'Isere are the two best bases of the area. Both have campsites, tourist offices, hotels, shops and banks. It is possible to transfer between the two by bus, as there are regular daily services.

Eastern Graian Alps are home to two important peaks, Gran Paradiso (4061m) and Grivola (3969m). In addition, there are over 20 rock fins and towers reaching the 3500 meter mark. Eastern area has plenty of alpine snow and ice routes. Normal route of Gran Paradiso is a popular destination among those willing to climb their first 4000m peak. NW face on the other hand is a classic ice face.

The best known ice climbing center of the area is, Cogne in the Aosta Valley at the base of the Grand Paradiso. Access is through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Courmayeur then down the Aosta valley to Sarre then a twisting road leads up into the mountains. Cogne is higher and further north than other ice climbing centres of Graian Alps, thus it has a longer and more reliable season.

• 2003 (Il Parco Nationale del Gran Paradiso), 1:50 000. IGC.
• 101 (Gran Paradiso, La Grivola, Cogne), 1:25 000. IGC.
• Kompass Karte: 86 (Gran Paradiso).

• Collomb Robin G.: Graians East. West Col, 1969. Isbn: 0901516023.
• Klotz: Gebietsführer Gran Paradiso. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.

• Graian Alps. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Gran Paradiso group. Area page. At SummitPost.
• Vanoise group. Area page. At SummitPost.

Valleys

valle d'Aosta

Large valley located to the north of Grain Alps. Main city of the valley is Aosta. Cogne, located in Aosta valley is a mecca for waterfall climbing during the winter.

• Cogne Ice-Climbing Overview. By Ullrich Prinz.

Mountains

Maritime Alps

Maritime Alps on the southern border between France and Italy (north of the city of Nice and southwest from Turin) are the southernmost mountain range of the Alps. Although the mountains are significantly lower than many in the north and east, the rock is generally of good quality gneiss and routes of up to 600 meters are not uncommon. Climbers will be most interested in the peaks around the village of St.Martin de Vésubie. Here locates the region's highest peak, Punta del'Argentera (3297m). The mountain locates less than 50 km from the Mediterranean and stable climate reflects this proximity. Except in the highest and most sheltered areas, most snow has melted by summer.

During the winter Maritime Alps have high quality ice fall climbing. Center is Argentera valley in which the season runs from mid-december to March. Because of approximity to Mediterranean, the season shorter than in the areas further north.

• 3741 OT. IGN.
• Les Spéciales: 5 (Argentera Merceantour). IGN.
• TOP25: (Saint-Martin-Vésubie). IGN.
• TOP25: 3541 OT (Vallée de la Vésubie), 1:25 000. IGN.
• TOP25: 3741 OT (Vallée de la Cordolasque), 1:25 000. IGN.

• Argentera Valley (Italy). Ice climbing in Argentera Valley. At SportExtreme.
• Maritime Alps. Range page at Peakware.
Punta del'Argentera (3297m)
• Punta del'Argentera. Mountain page. At Peakware.
Couloir de Lourousa. AD; 45-50°; 900m.
West face
Éperon du Promontoire. Rock, AD; 800m. Punta del'Argentera, Éperon du Promontoire, First ascentJean-Pierre Canceill, 1994.
Rock route on excellent granite.
Cime du Gélas (3143m)
• Cime du Gélas. Mountain page. At Peakware.
East side
• from La Madone de Fenestre hut (1902m)
Arete du St.Robert. Rock, PD; II; 1250m (difficulties 300m) from La Madone de Fenestre hut (1902m).
East Couloir. Rock, F; 1250m, 4h (7h rountrip) from La Madone de Fenestre hut (1902m).
South side
South Face. Rock, D+; V+ (one passage), V (2 passages ), otherwise IV+; 300m (10 pitches), 4h.
rock (granit/gneiss)
West side
West Couloir. Mixed, AD; 50°; 1650m (difficulties 250m).
Cima di Nasta (3108m)
Alte Matto (3088m)
Cima della Maledie (3061m)
SE Arete
• from Refuge du Nice (2232m)
Traverse of SE-NW arete. Rock,
Mount Clapier (3045m)
SW Arete
Arete E (SW Arete). Mixed, III AD; III/M2/50°, II; 200m.
Mount Ténibre (3031m)

Mont Blanc Massif

Home of alpinism, Mont Blanc Massif offers the alpinist a superb choice of top quality routes on rock, snow and ice and of all grades of difficulty. Several of the classic routes have their firm place in the history of mountaineering. Besides Mont Blanc at 4807m there are thirteen other mountains and many more tops which reach the magic 4000m. There are several trains and telepheriques that make approaches to many mountains short and effortless. Considering this, the quality and diversity of routes, and the fact that the range is compact, it is no wonder, that overcrowding can be a problem in some areas. However, it is also possible to climb routes in relative solitude, if climbers are prepared to climb in less popular (and often also less accessible) areas. <<more>>.

Pennine Alps (Valais Alps)

The Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy are perhaps the most spectacular mountain chain in Europe. The range borders on the Great St. Bernard Pass and the Mont Blanc group in southwest, on the Upper Rhône Valley in the north, on the Simplon Pass and the Lepontine Alps in northeast and by the Dora Baltea River valley in south. The compact area boasts ten of the twelve highest summits in the Alps (the other two are part of the Mont Blanc Massif), most of them located in the frontier crest. The high mountains are separated by long narrow valleys. <<more>>.