Kaisergebirge, Wilder und Zahmer Kaiser, 360°-Panorama; Gipfel: Totenkirchl, Stripsenkopf. Totenkirchl is seen from the north. Normal route and moderate classic 'Führerweg' follows the right skyline of Totenkirchl. Source: . Credit: Fura,  Shot in Totenkirchl, Kufstein, Tirol, Austria. (c) Fura, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0 AT.
Kaisergebirge, Wilder und Zahmer Kaiser, 360°-Panorama; Gipfel: Totenkirchl, Stripsenkopf. Totenkirchl is seen from the north. Normal route and moderate classic 'Führerweg' follows the right skyline of Totenkirchl. Source: Wikimedia Commons. Credit: Fura, Shot in Totenkirchl, Kufstein, Tirol, Austria. (c) Fura, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0 AT.

Northern part of Eastern Alps extend through Southern Germany and northern Austria from Bodensee in the West to Wien in the East. The area consist of many mountain groups, many of which are not too important for mountaineers and alpinists. Several limestone ranges ranges located right on the border between Austria and Germany, collectively referred to as Bavarian Alps are well suited for alpine rock climbing. Because of the relatively low altitude and approximity of major cities München, Innsbruck and Salzburg, the area is also popular among mountain walkers and hikers. Most important mountains are Zugspitze (2962m) in Wetterstein Group and Watzmann (2713m) in Berchtesgader Alps. Also, Dachtein group further to the east is important climbing area. In the following, only most important areas are introduced.

  • North Tyrol Limestone Alps North Tyrol Limestone Alps forms the highest part of North eastern Alps. The ranges on or close to border between Germany and Austria feature several relatively compact ranges. Some of these ranges are popular climbing destinations, particularly Wetterstein, Karwendel and Kaisergebirge. However, none of these ranges are very well known outside of German-speaking Europe. Relatively modest altitude means that the areas areas are best known for rock climbing and trekking, those looking for classic mountaineering experience are better served by looking to the higher peaks further south.
  • Bavarian Alps SOIUSA group 'Bavarian Alps' excludes 'North Tyrol Limestone Alps' and 'Northern Salzburg Alps', both of which lie partially in German state of Bavaraia (Bayern). According to SOIUSA, Bavarian alps is located to the north of these ranges, mostly in Germany. That being said, Ammergauer and Chiemgauer Alps of Austrian state of Vorarlberg are counted as part of Bavarian Alps. Northernmost group of German Alps, located between Loisach in the West and Berchtesgadener Alps (separated by the river Inn) in the East. Higher groups of Wetterstein, Karwendel and Rofan form souther border of Bayerische Voralpen. The most prominent peaks of the area are Kampenwand, Hörnlwand and Sonntagshorn (1961m). Famous winter sport cities Inzell and Ruhpolding in NE and Reit im Winkl in SW are the most commonly used bases.
  • Tyrol Schistose Alps Groups located to the south of 'North Tyrol Limestone Alps' and west of 'Northern Salzburg Alps'. The main group here is Kitzbühel Alps
  • Northern Salzburg Alps Northern Salzburg Alps (Salzburger Nordalpen) are located to the south of Salzburg, partially in Austria, partially in Germany. By far the most famous part of the peaks is Berchtesgadener Alps, which is one of the highest and most important parts of North eastern Alps. The highest peak of the are is Hochkönig (2941m), but somewhat lower peaks like Watzmann, Hoher Göll, Hochkalter and Untersberg are far more famous.
  • Salzkammergut and Upper Austria Alps Groups to the east of 'Northern Salzburg Alps' and the city of Salzburg. The highest and by far the best known area is Dachstein group.
  • Northern Styrian Alps
  • Northern Lower Austria Alps
  • Map of Tirol. Shows the location of most mountain groups of Bavarian Alps.
  • Forchthammer, Gerald & Kühberger, Rudolf: Best of - Genuss Bd. 1 - Salzburger- & Berchtesgadener Land. Alpine Genussklettereien Von 3 Bis 7., 2. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783936740370. Panico Alpinverlag, 2012.
  • Widmaier, Johanna: Best of - Genuss Bd. 2 - Vom Rätikon Zum Wilden Kaiser. Alpine Genussklettereien Von 3 Bis 7., 1. Auflage. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783936740219. Panico Alpinverlag, 2009.
  • Stocker, Adi: Longlines – Die Ganz Großen Klettereien Der Nördlichen Kalkalpen, 1. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783956110221. Panico Alpinverlag, 2014.
  • Goedeke, Richard: Kletterführer Bayerische Alpen, Nordtirol - Genusstouren III-VII. Isbn: 3-7633-3016-X. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.
  • Wiedmann, Otti: Abenteuer Alpinklettern Tirol - 150 Klettertouren in Den Nördlichen Kalkalpen, am Alpenhauptkamm Und in Den Dolomiten. Mit Einem Vorwort V. Reinhold Messner. Isbn: 9783702229870. Tyrolia Verlag, 2009.
  • Heller, Horst: Nördliche Kalkalpen. Kletterführer. Isbn: 9783763410545. Berg, 1991.
  • Bauregger, Heinrich: Die Schönsten Klettersteige Zwischen Berchtesgaden Und Allgäu. Isbn: 9783765840531. Bucher C.J., 2001.
  • Werner, Paul: Klettersteige Bayern, Vorarlberg, Tirol, Salzburg - 76 ausgewählte Klettersteige zwischen Rhein und Salzach. Isbn: 3763330941. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1999.
  • Schall, Kurt: Klettersteige & Leichter Fels Österreich Ost. Isbn: 3900533334. Schall-Verlag, 2004.
  • Alpinverlag, Panico: Sportkletterführer Vorarlberg - Bregenzer Wald, Rheintal, Walgau, Montafon, Arlberg, 2 edition. Isbn: 9783956110238. Panico Alpinverlag, 2014.
  • Alpinverlag, Panico: Kletterführer Vorarlberg - Sportklettern Zwischen Rheintal Und Arlberg, 1 edition. Isbn: 9783936740684. Panico Alpinverlag, 2010.
  • Pasold, Achim: Kletterführer Vorarlberg - Bregenzerwald | Lechquellengebirge | Rätikon | Silvretta | Verwall, 5 edition. Isbn: 9783956110245. Panico Alpinverlag, 2014.
  • Pasold, Achim: Kletterführer Vorarlberg - Alpine Ziele & Klettergärten, 4 edition. Isbn: 9783926807946. Panico Alpinverlag, 2010.

North Tyrol Limestone Alps

North Tyrol Limestone Alps forms the highest part of North eastern Alps. The ranges on or close to border between Germany and Austria feature several relatively compact ranges. Some of these ranges are popular climbing destinations, particularly Wetterstein, Karwendel and Kaisergebirge. However, none of these ranges are very well known outside of German-speaking Europe. Relatively modest altitude means that the areas areas are best known for rock climbing and trekking, those looking for classic mountaineering experience are better served by looking to the higher peaks further south.

  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 323 Achensee-Rofan-UnterinntalFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000
  • Elsner, Dieter; Flür, Alfred; Hofer, Wolfgang; Moschen, Siegfried; Schafroth, Jã¼rgen & Stadlwieser, Rudolf: Kletterführer Lechtaler Alpen - Alpine Ziele & Klettergärten, 3., Vollst. überarb Neuaufl. edition. Isbn: 9783926807168. Panico Alpinverlag, 2010.
  • Pasold, Achim: Kletterfuhrer Alpin Allgau - Incl. Tannheimer Berge. Isbn: 3926807598. Panico Alpinverlag.
  • Lutz, Marcus & Pasold, Achim: Kletterführer Allgäu & Ammergau - Inkl. Tannheimer Berge, 1 edition. Isbn: 9783956110078. Panico Alpinverlag, 2013.
  • Salvenmoser, Hannes; Rutter, Mike; Hannes, Marbler; Kirchner, Andreas & Sussmann, Ralf: Kletterführer Rofangebirge, 2 edition. Isbn: 9783936740059. Panico Alpinverlag, 2011.
  • Stefan, Biggel; Gernert, Stefan; Glaser, Alban; Heiland, Robert; Jutz, Pio & Robl, Matthias: Eiskletterführer Zwischen Bregenz bis Garmisch - Vorarlberg, Bregenzer Wald, Allgäu, Lechtal, Ammergau, Wetterstein, Loisachtal, 2. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783926807670. Panico Alpinverlag, 2007.

Mieming and Wetterstein

Wetterstein is relatively small area located on the border between Germany and Austria, just south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Mieminger lies just south of Wetterstein and North of Stubai Alps. The highest aand most famous mountain of the area is Zugspitze (2962m), the highest mountain of Germany.

  • AV-Karte: 4/2 Wetterstein1:25.000
  • Freytag & Berndt: 322 Wetterstein-Karwendel1:50 000
  • Topographische Karte: 8532/8632 Garmisch-PartenkirchenBayerisches Landesvermessungsamt München. 1:25.000
  • Kompass Karte: 07 Werdenfelser Land mit Zugspitze1:35 000
  • Gemza, Rolf; Oswald, Martin & Pfanzelt, Christian: Kletterführer Wetterstein Nord - Inkl. Oberreintal, 5 edition. Isbn: 9783956110108. Panico Alpinverlag, 2014.
  • Grübler, Karlheinz; Hangl, Bernhard & Neuner, Albert: Alpinkletterführer Wetterstein Süd - Schüsselkar - Zugspitze - Mieminger Kette - Inkl. Klettergärten, 3 edition. Isbn: 9783956110368. Panico Alpinverlag, 2016.
  • Beulke, Stefan: Wetterstein. Isbn: 9783763311194. Bergverlag Rother, 1996.
  • Ritschel, Bernd & Dauer, Tom: Die Zugspitze. Menschen - Massen - Mythen. Isbn: 9783765435928. Bruckmann, 2000.
  • Suchergebnisse & Römmelt, Bernd: Die Zugspitze Und Das Wettersteingebirge, 1. Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9783475541513. Rosenheimer Verlagshaus, 2012.
  • Engels, Hans & Haberl, Tobias: Zugspitze, 1 edition. Isbn: 9783422073357. Deutscher Kunstverlag, 2015.
  • Kriner, Martin; Weiermann, Christian; Steinbacher, Dorothea; Kugler, Annette & Neubauer, Mathias: Augenblicke Zwischen Karwendel Und Zugspitze - Der Fotografische Blick Auf Die Jahreszeiten Einer Landschaft Von Christian Weiermann Und Martin Kriner, Unverã¤nderter Nachdruck. edition. Isbn: 9783000474200. Kriner-Weiermann, 2014.
  • Zahel, Mark: Alpine Bergtouren Karwendel Und Wetterstein. Isbn: 9783765467684. Bruckmann Verlag Gmbh.

Karwendel

Karwendel lies mostly in Austria, between Inntal (Innsbruck) in the south, Wetterstein in West, Rofangebirge in East and Isar in the North. Most common bases are Innsbruck in the south, Achensee in East, Wallgau, Leggries and Eng in the north and Mittenwald, Seefeld, Scharnitz and Krön in the west.

  • AV-Karte: 5/1 Karwendelgebirge West1:25 000
  • AV-Karte: 5/2 Karwendel Mitte1:25 000
  • AV-Karte: 5/3 Karwendel Ost1:25 000
  • UK L 30 KarwendelgebirgeBayerische Landesvermessungsamt. 1:50 000
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 322 KarwendelFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000
  • Alpinverlag, Panico: Kletterführer Karwendel, 3. edition. Isbn: 9783926807540. Panico Alpinverlag, 2011.
  • Zahel, Mark: Alpine Bergtouren Karwendel Und Wetterstein. Isbn: 9783765467684. Bruckmann Verlag Gmbh.

Kaisergebirge

Kaisergebirge is very compact range located on Tyrol, close to Kufstein. It lies between Karwendel in the west and Rofangebirge in the east. The area offers mostly rock climbs. Kaisergebirge has important place in climbing history as from the late 19th century to the First World War wthe limestone faces of the Wilder Kaiser were the cradle of Munich's climbing scene. During that period well-known climbing pioneers like Hans Dülfer developed entirely new climbing techniques and styles. Several of the climbs put up during that era were at the pinnacle of possibility at the time.

  • AV-Karte: 8 Kaisergebirge1:25 000
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 301 Kuftsein-Kaisergebirge-KitzbuhelFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000
  • Wilder Kaiser. Isbn: 9783702235475. Tyrolia Verlag.
  • Wilder Kaiser Und Kitzbüheler Alpen. Isbn: 9783765459115. Bruckmann Verlag Gmbh.
  • Höfler, Horst & Schubert, Pit: Wilder Kaiser.. Isbn: 9783905111941. As Verlag, Zã¼rich, 2003.
  • Stadler, Markus: Wilder Kaiser, 1., Aufl. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783936740868. Panico Alpinverlag, 2012.
  • Kaisergebirge. Isbn: 9783763370504.
  • Schubert, Pit & Zeis, Wolfgang: Kaisergebirge Extrem. Ein Führer Für Täler, Hütten Und Berge.. Isbn: 9783763312726. Bergverlag Rother, 2000.
  • Alpine Bergtouren Kaisergebirge Und Berchtesgadener Alpen. Isbn: 9783765462016.
  • Piepenstock, Jan: Kaisergebirge Alpin. Isbn: 9783763312573. Bergverlag Rother, 2006.

Northern Salzburg Alps

Northern Salzburg Alps (Salzburger Nordalpen) are located to the south of Salzburg, partially in Austria, partially in Germany. By far the most famous part of the peaks is Berchtesgadener Alps, which is one of the highest and most important parts of North eastern Alps. The highest peak of the are is Hochkönig (2941m), but somewhat lower peaks like Watzmann, Hoher Göll, Hochkalter and Untersberg are far more famous.

  • Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge
  • Salzburger Schieferalpen
  • Berchtesgaden Alps Berchtesgadener Alps lie mostly is Southeastern Germany but extend also to Austria. Saalach and Salzach rivers and Zeller See form natural borders. Range consist of Untersberg, Lattengebirge, Raiteralpe, Hochkaltergebirge, Wattzmannstock, Göllstock, Gotzenberge, Hagengebirge, Steinernes Meer and Hochkönigsstock. The highest mountain of the area is Hochkönig (2941m), located in Austria. However, the most famous mountain of the area is Watzamann (2713m, the second highest mountain in Germany).
  • Tennengebirge

Small city of Berchtesgaden is the central city of the area. Nearest major city is Salzburg on Austrian side of the border.

Statistically May, September and October are best months for climbing, as June and July are wettest months. Many high routes have snow until June (or longer). Some routes however are often dry in early spring, especially East face of Untersberg is a good destination for rock climbing during that time.

Climbing is mostly on rock. The most striking climbing destination of the area is 1800m high East Face of Watzmann, one of the biggest faces in the whole Alps. There are several routes from III upwards. Traverse over all three Watzmann summits is very popular (UIAA I-II, via ferrata, 2500m of ascent). Other popular climbing peaks are Hoher Göll and Untersberg. There are also several via ferratas. East Face of Hoher Göll is the classic ice face in the area.

UIAA rock grades are used for rock routes. As is typical in Austria, no overall grading system is generally applies.

  • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.4 Berchtesgadener Alpen. 3860384880. 2001. 1:25 000
  • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.1 Nationalpark Berchtesgaden. 3860380931. 2001. 1:25 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 93Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen. 1:25 000
  • Freytag und Berndt Wanderkarten: Berchtesgaden, Bad Reichenhall, Königssee. 3850848167. 2001
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 141:50 000
  • Forchthammer, Gerald & Kühberger, Rudolf: Best of - Genuss Bd. 1 - Salzburger- & Berchtesgadener Land. Alpine Genussklettereien Von 3 Bis 7., 2. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783936740370. Panico Alpinverlag, 2012.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl, Axel: Genussklettern Österreich Mitte - Die Schönsten Plaisir- Und Genussklettertouren Vom Toten Gebirge Bis Zum Wilden Kaiser. Schwierigkeitsniveau 4 - 7-/7, 1 edition. Isbn: 3950092021. Alpinverlag, 2005.
  • Schöner, Hellmut & Kühnhauser, Bernhard: Berchtesgadener Alpen - Alpenvereinsführer, 18 auflage edition. Isbn: 3-7633-1127-0. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003.
  • Rasp, Franz: Watzmann- Ostwand. Isbn: 3763341412. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1990.
  • Sojer, Georg & Koller, Richard: Kletterführer Berchtesgadener Alpen Band Ost, 1., Aufl. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783936740882. Panico Alpinverlag, 2012.
  • Bergfuchs; Lieblingsbücher, Meine; KA, Stefan D. aus; Hochspannungsfilme, Meine; "Rene", Rene Reisinger & an, Legen Sie Ihre eigene Lieblingsliste: Eiskletterführer Salzburger Land - Berchtesgardener Land, Salzburg und Umgebung, Saalbach, Kaprun-Felbertauern, Rauriser Tal, Gasteiner Tal, Tennengebirge, Radstädter Tauern, 2. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783926807571. Panico Alpinverlag, 2004.

Salzkammergut and Upper Austria Alps

Groups to the east of 'Northern Salzburg Alps' and the city of Salzburg. The highest and by far the best known area is Dachstein group.

Further to the east lies Dachstein group. The area is very compact with dozen peaks above 2500m. The highest peak is Hohe Dachstein at 2995m. Other main peaks are Torstein (2948m) in the westernmost part of the massif, Mitterspitz (2926m) and Kopperkarstein (2863m). It is more glaciated than usually glacier free Bavarian Alps and it features the easternmost glaciers in the Alps. 7 of the glaciers are located on the north side of the main ridge and one on the south side.

Main bases are Ramsau (1136m) on the south side and Gosau (779m) on the north side. The area is very popular and features many huts, Dachstein Südwandhütte (1871m) and Adamekhütte (2196m) are probably the most popular among the climbers. There is a cable car fromRamsau to Hunerkogel which facilitates easy access to normal routes on Hohe Dachstein.

Besides few glacier routes it has several via ferratas and rock routes. South face of the main ridge is the most interesting feature from the climber's point of view. It is 8 km wide and 1000 meters high at the westernmost part at Torstein and only slightly less on Hohe Dachstein. Steinerweg and Pichlweg on the South Face of Hoher Dachstein are probably famous rock climbs. Torstein (2948m) Eisrinne (45-55°, 300m) is the classic ice route of the area. During the winter Dachstein is great for ski mountaineering.

  • Österreichische Karte: 126 Radstadt1:50 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 127 Schladming1:50 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 96 Bad Ischl1:50 000
  • AV-Karte: 14 Dachstein Group".1:25 000
  • Forchthammer, Gerald & Kühberger, Rudolf: Best of - Genuss Bd. 1 - Salzburger- & Berchtesgadener Land. Alpine Genussklettereien Von 3 Bis 7., 2. Auflage edition. Isbn: 9783936740370. Panico Alpinverlag, 2012.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl, Axel: Genussklettern Österreich Mitte - Die Schönsten Plaisir- Und Genussklettertouren Vom Toten Gebirge Bis Zum Wilden Kaiser. Schwierigkeitsniveau 4 - 7-/7, 1 edition. Isbn: 3950092021. Alpinverlag, 2005.
  • Suchergebnisse & End, Willi: Dachstein - Alpenvereinsführer Für Wanderer, Bergsteiger Und Kletterer, 1 edition. Isbn: 9783763312658. Bergverlag Rother, 2015.
  • Unknown.: Kletterarena Dachstein Süd. Isbn: 9783900533366. Schall-Verlag, 2004.

Mountains

Northern Eastern Alps (Northern limestone Alps)

Wetterstein/Mieminger

Zugspitze47.42111110.9852782962
Germany, Wettersteingebirge, Located at border between Austria and Germany in Wetterstein range, immediately south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen..

Highest mountain in Germany and correspondingly popular.

First ascent by G.Deutschl, Maier & K. Naus in 1820.

Jubiläumsgrat
6 km long, exposed ridge joining Zugspitze and Alpspitze (2620m). There are several summit starting from Zugspitze: Innere Höllentalspitze (2737m), Mittlere Höllentalspitze (2740m), Äussere Höllentalspitze (2716m), Vollkarspitze (2630m).
Jubiläumsgrat. Ferrata, II (via ferrata); 500m ascent, 800m descent. 1-2 days (There is Höllentalgrathütte bivouac hut between Mittlere and Äussere Höllentalspitze).
Popular climb during the summer. Possible on both directions.
NE Ridge
Höllentalsteig (Bayerische Normalweg, NE ridge). Ferrata, F+/G2; via ferrata C; 7-8h, 2200m.
Normal route. Slightly harder than Tiroler normal route and considered to be nicer. It is possible to stay at Höllentalangerhütte (1379m) on the route.
Tiroler Normalweg. Ferrata, I; 1750m, 6-7h from Zugspitzbahn station in Ehrenwald (1228m).
Normal route. Easiest route to the summit. It is Possible to sleep in Wiener-Neustädter Hut (2209m).

Berchtesgadener Alps

Hochkönig2941
Südwand
Gloria Patria. VI/eVII; 550m, 18 pitches, 6h.
Kesselpfeiler
Kesselpfeiler (Precht). VI/eVI-; 400m, 15 pitches, 4h.
Watzmann47.55527812.9233332713
  • Hocheck
  • Mittelspitze
  • Südspitze (Schönfeldspitze)
Germany, Berchtesgadener Alps. Highest mountain in the German part of Berchtesgadener Alpen and the second highest in Germany. Very popular. Traverse over three summits is popular route with UIAA II, via ferrata). 1800m high east face is one of the highest faces in the Alps and has several routes with technical difficulties starting at UIAA III. There are also several climbing routes on Klein Watzmann and Watzmannkinder.
1900-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Ascent
During the fourth ascent of Ostwand, the first fatal accident took place as Christian Schöllhorn from Munich (Germany) fell 50 meters to the Bergschrung of a glacier, later known as Shöllhorngletscher. After the accident guides were officially forbidden to climb on Ostwand. The forbid was in force until 1909. From then on over 100 people have died on the mountain.
1900-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Event
East face, Herman Buhl
1784-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Hocheck, botanist Georg Anton Weitzenbach
1799-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Südspitze, Valentin Stanic, chaplain of Salzburg via Hocheck
1868-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Ostawand was climbed in its northernmost part
1871-02-01
Watzmann, ,
First winter ascent
Johann Ilsanker ('Stanzl') with a partner
1881-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
True first ascent however was made in 1881 as http://www.watzmann.de/homepage/berg/geschichte/kederbacher/kederbacher.html Johann Grill ('Kederbacher') succeeded to climb from Eiskapelle to the South Summit. Kederbacher (1835-1917) was the first authorised mountain guide in Germany. He studied the face with a telescope from Gotzenalm and found a route via two glaciers.
1898-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Event
Cabin was build on Hocheck in 1898. In the same year some steps were cut in stone and rope protections were placed. Thus Watzmann became one of the first via ferratas in the Alps.
North ridge
Traverse Hocheck - Mittelspitze - Südspitze. Rock/ferrata, G2; II (via ferrata); 2500m, 10-15h, 26km (1-2 days). 1871-01-01First ascentJohann Punz and Johann Stüdl, 1871.
Normal route. Wimbachbrücke 600 m - Watzmannhaus 1928 m 31/2 h, 902 Watzmannhaus 1928 m - Hocheck 2651 m I, 2 h, 921 Hocheck 2651 m - Mittelspitze 2713 m - Südspitze 2712 m II, 11/2-2 h, 922 Südspitze 2712 m - Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m 21/2-4 h, 941A Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m - Wimbachbrücke 600 m 21/2 h, 667 .
  • AV #902,#921,#922,#941A,#667
Hocheck, Ostwand (Hocheck, East face)
Ostpfeiler "Goedeke". Rock, V+/eVI; 650m, 22 pitches, 6,5h.
Mittelspitze, Ostwand (Mittelspitze, East face)
Lapuch/Wieder. Rock, III-/eIII+; 700m, 4h.
Südspitze, Ostwand (Südspitze, East face)
1800 meter high Ostwand (thus highest face in Eastern Alps) was for long considered as impossible to climb until in 1881 a climber from Ramsau, a village on the foot of the mountain, finally succeeded. Nowadays Ostwand is not considered technically extremely difficult in climbers standards - for a lay man it's still Im-possible. The mere scale of the wall however makes it challenge enough for most climbers. There's bivouac hut at 2340m.
  • All routes begin at Eiskapelle (900m), the lowest located place on the Alps with permanent snow. Access by boat from Königssee.
Berchtesgadener Weg. Rock, III+/eIV+; 1800m, 7h.
Easiest of the routes on Ostwand. Found as an accident as trying to ascent Münchner Weg in 1947.
  • AV #946
Kederbacherweg. Mixed/rock, IV-; 1800m.
  • AV #945
Müchnererweg. Rock, IV; 1800m.
  • AV #948
Salzburgerweg. Rock, IV+,A0; 1800m.
  • AV #947
Frankfurterweg (Directissima). Rock, V; 1800m.
  • AV #949
Klein Watzmann (Watzmannfrau)
Watzmannkinder
Hochkalter2607
Located very close to Watzamnn, separated from it by a beautiful Wimbachklamm valley..Home to Blaueisgletscher, the northernmost glacier in the Alps. Blaueishütte (1680m), access from Hintersee (2,5h).
Hoher Göll2522

Popular peak close to Salzburg.

Normal routes are hikes with some easy climbing (Salzburger Steig, I; via Pflugtal, II, 5h; via Alpeltal, I), but there are tens of climbing routes, especially on West face. Some routes on the West face are extremely difficult, for example "caramouche" UIAA IX+/X-, done by famous Alexander & Thomas Huber.

West Face (Westwand)
Kleiner Trichter. 400m, 16 pitches, 4,5h.
Brandenstein (Alte Westwand). Rock, 280m, 10 pitches, 2,5h. 1920-01-01First ascentBrandenstein, 1920.
Classic. Mostly solid, slabby rock. In the lower part, several more direct variants possible (IV or more). Bolts on stands.
West Face (Direkte Westwand). 4h. 1921-01-01First ascentJ.Aschauer & J.Kurz, 1921.
Partially loose and dangerous.
West Ridge. 6-8h from Scharitzkehl. 1900-01-01First ascentA. & G.Schulze, 1900.
Long panoramic ridge.
East Face (Ostwand)
East Face (Ostwand). 8-9h from Golling. 1899-01-01First ascentH.Pfanul & Th. Maischberger, 1899.
Also possible during the winter (April-May), then 820m ice route, 50°.
East Face diedre (Kurt-Lager Gedächtnisweg, Ostwandverschneidung). 800m, 3-5h. 1976-01-01First ascentF.Gruber, H.Hüttiger & G.Breistein, 1976.
East Face Direct (gerade Ostwand). 900m, 5h. 1832-01-01First ascentHöllenbacher & Holzner, 1832.
North Face (Nordwand)
North Face Direct (Gerade Nordwand).
SW Face
SW Face. 3h. 1924-01-01First ascentE.Gretschmann & J.Schmidt, 1924.
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge)
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge). I; 2,5-3h.
Via ferrata from Kehlsteinhaus. Can be climbed also without using the via ferrata, then II-IV depending on the chosen line.
Salzburger Steig. 2,5h. 1801-01-01First ascentStanig (probably earlier ascent by hunters), 1801.
From Purtscheller Haus.
Torrenerjoch-Hoher Göll traverse. 4-5h.
Popular ridge traverse from Torrenerjoch (Stahlhaus, easily reached Jennerbahn ski lift) via Jägerkreuz, Hohes Brett, Grosse Archenkopf and Kleine Archenkopf to summit. Descent either along Mannlgrat to Kehlsteinhaus or Salzburger Steig to Purtscheller Haus.
Untersberg1973
  • Salzburger Hochtron
  • Berchtesgadener Hochtron

Located on the border of Germany and Austria, very close to city of Salzburg.

Berchtesgadener Hochtron, South Face
  • East Face III-, II 390m, 2-3h Wieder & Hütter
  • Direkter Südostpfeiler (Schimkepfeiler) Popular route, stands equipped V+ (passages), mostly V and IV (or V-, A0) 300m, 3-4h H.Reisch & K.Schimke
  • South Face "Barth-Niedermayer" Very popular, bolted III+ (eIV) (passages), otherwise III and II 230m (9 pitches), 2-3h Barth & Niedermayer
  • Barthkamin IV+ (eVI+) 200m, 10 pitches
  • Hinterstoisser/Kurz VI or V,A0 (eVI+) 200m, 9 pitches
Salzburger Hochtron, East Face
  • Dreierweg Stands equipped III 300m, 2h L.Schifferer, H.Feichtner & V.Raitmayer
  • Diedre (Oswandverschneidung) Slab & crack climbing on good rock. Stands equipped IV- (passages), otherwise III 250m, 2h E.Schlager & S.Dumler
Salzburger Hochtron, South Face
  • South Arete IV, mostly IV- and III 150m (4 pitches), 2h Otte & co.
  • South Face Very popular. III- (10m), otherwise II 100m, 1h G.Starke

Dachstein

Hoher Dachstein2995

Hoher Dachstein is the main peak of the Dachsteingruppe, the highest peak of Styria and Upper Austria and the second highest peak of the Northern Limestone Alps.

It's a lofty, rugged and beautiful peak, with glaciers to the North and a steep rock face to the south.

1832-01-01
Hoher Dachstein, ,
First ascent
P.Gappmeyer
East Face
Randkluftsteig (NE Face). Ferrata, G3; II/Via ferrata B/C; 250m.
Normal route. Via Ferrata through East Face. Via ferrata starts at Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet Hut, 2720m).
West side
Linzer Weg & traverse. PD-/G3; I+/via ferrata A/B; 250m/800m, 3,5h from hut to Hunekogen ski lift via East face klettersteig.
Via Gosau glacier to Obere Windlucke on the West Ridge. Also possible from Hunerkogel ski lift. Then along the west ridge (fixed gear) to the summit. West ridge is the easiest route on Hohe Dachstein. Descent via East face Klettersteig.
South Face
Der Johann (South Face Ferrata). Ferrata, Via Ferrata D/E; 1050m, Approach 2h, via ferrata 3h, descent to cable car 0,5h.
Very difficult Via ferrata from Dachstein Südwand hut (1871m) to Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet hut, 2720m). Along the East face via ferrata to summit.
Steinerweg. Rock, V-,A0, mostly IV and IV+; 850m (24 pitches), 5-9h. 1909-01-01First ascentG. & F. Steiner, 1909.
Classic. Alpine rock classic.
Pichlweg. IV-, mostly II and III+; 700m, 4-6h. 1901-07-27First ascentE. Pichl, F. Gams & F. Zimmer, 1901-07-27.
Torstein2948
Located in the westernmost part of the massif..The second highest peak of the massif
1900-01-01
Torstein, ,
Event