Alps

Western Alps

Southwestern Alps

Monte Argentera44.1777787.3055563297
Italy, Maritime Alps.
North side
Couloir de Lourousa. AD; 45-50°; 900m.
SE face
SE face. Rock, II PD-; 1532m.
West face
Éperon du Promontoire. Rock, AD; 800m. 1994-01-01First ascentJean-Pierre Canceill, 1994.
Rock route on excellent granite.
Cime du Gélas3143
East side
Arete du St.Robert. Rock, PD; II; 1250m (difficulties 300m) from La Madone de Fenestre hut (1902m).
East Couloir. Rock, F; 1250m, 4h (7h rountrip) from La Madone de Fenestre hut (1902m).
South side
South Face. Rock, D+; V+ (one passage), V (2 passages ), otherwise IV+; 300m (10 pitches), 4h.
rock (granit/gneiss).
West side
West Couloir. Mixed, AD; 50°; 1650m (difficulties 250m).
Cima di Nasta3108
Alte Matto3088
Cima della Maledie3061
SE Arete
Traverse of SE-NW arete. Rock,
Mount Clapier3045
SW Arete
Arete E (SW Arete). Mixed, III AD; III/M2/50°, II; 200m.
Mount Ténibre3031

Cottian Alps

Monte Viso (Monviso)44.66757.0916673843
France, Cottian Alps, Queyras.
South face
South face. F/G2; II; 1130m.
Normal route. Rock and snow from Refuge Quintano Sella or Refuge-Bivouac Andreotti.
Aiguille de Chambeyron3412

Dauphiné (Ecrins Massif)

Barre des Écrins (Barre des Ecrins)4101
The highest mountain in the Écrins Massif. Somewhat paradoxically, one of the technically easier mountains of the area.
1864-07-25
Barre des Écrins, ,
First ascent
A.W. Moore, Edward Whymper, Michel Croz & Christian Almer via North Face and upper East Ridge Whymper's Books "Scrambles Amongs the Alps" tells the story of the ascent.
  • Whymper Edward: Scrambles Amongs the Alps.
North face
Couloir Barre Noire (North Couloir). Ice/snow, AD+/D-; Sco I/II/50°, avg. 47°; 2-3h. 1954-09-24First ascentF.Picard & G.Singer, 1954-09-24.
From Bréche des Ecrins, 0100m, 4h from Ecrins hut (3175). Often climbed from Ecrins hut in combination with NE Ridge. Wide open couloir, safe from objective dangers. Airy and less frequented than normal route.
North Face & West Ridge. Glacier, PD+/G4; 40°, II, mostly I; 1060m, 4h from Refuge des Écrins (3175m). 1864-07-25First ascentA.W. Moore, Edward Whymper, Michel Croz & Christian Almer in descent., 1864-07-25.
Normal route. Predominantly glacier climb up Glacier Blanc (40°, crevasses). Cross the bergschrund at Bréche Lory (3974m), bergschrund may be tricky). Summit ridge over foresummit Pic Lory, exposed on good rock (II, mostly I). Direct Finish possible at AD. Threatened by stone fall.
Northeast Ridge. Mixed, AD; III and II, 50°; 450m, 2h from Bréche des Écrins. 1881-06-18First ascentP.Güssfeldt & A.Burgener, 1881-06-18.
Often climbed in combination with Barre Noire Couloir. Mixed, may be corniced.
South face
Traverse South-North. AD; III-IV-, 45°; 1690m, 9-10h. 1881-07-11First ascentW.Coolidge & C.Almer sr & jr., 1881-07-11.
Ascent via South Face from Refuge du Temple Ecrins via Col des Avalanches (3479m), descent via normal route. Route finding possibly difficult.
South Face. Mixed, AD; III and II, 55°; 630m, 3-4h from Col des Avalanches, 1700m, 6-8h from Temple Hut. 1880-07-11First ascentH. Duhamel, Pierre Gaspard sr & jr., 1880-07-11.
Mixed climb with long rock passages of III and II, 55° on snow.
South Pillar. TD; V+ (one passage), V (several passages) and IV+ (sustained)/6a; 1100m, 6-9h on the face. 1944-08-15First ascentJean & Jeanne Franco, 1944-08-15.
Classic. Classic alpine route with IV+ (sustained) with V (several passages) and V+ (6a?, one passage). Serious because lack of retreat options and poor rock, otherwise objectively safe.
La Meije45.0047226.3086113983
France, Dauphiné.
North face
Couloir en Z. Ice/mixed, D/D+; IV/AI3+/70°; 900m, 6h from Refuge de l'Aigle, 9-11h from Promentoire hut. 1933-08-13First ascentM.Fourastier & C.Rodier, 1933-08-13.
Classic. Classic ice/mixed route on the North Face.
South face
Promontoire Arete (South Ridge). AD; 35°, IV-; 890m, 6h from Promontoire hut. 1891-07-03First ascentJ.Gibson, U.Almer & F.Boss, 1891-07-03.
Normal route. Popular and often frequented classic on good rock.
Traverse South-North. Mixed, D/D+; IV, 35°; 890m ascent, 530m descent. 10-12h from Promontoire hut (3092m) to Refuge de l'Aigle (3450m). 1891-07-03First ascentJ.Gibson, U.Almer & F.Boss, 1891-07-03.
Long mixed route, only little more difficult than the normal route. Ascent via Promontoire arete.
Ailefroide3954
Large and complex mountain with 2km ridge and several high high points. The main summit is Ailefroide Occidentale (weast summit).
1870-07-07
Ailefroide, ,
First ascent
W.Coolidge, C. & U. Almer & C.Gertsch
NW face
Northwest face via Glacier Long. Glacier, D; 1000m. 8h from bivouac under the face. 1982-01-01First ascentJ. de Lepiney & E.Stofer (to the bréche)., 1982.
Superb glacier climb, seldom frequented.
South side
SE Spur. PD; 5-6h from Sélé hut. 1870-07-07First ascentW.Coolidge, C. & U. Almer & C.Gertsch, 1870-07-07.
Normal route. Normal route on Ailefroide Occidentale, not very popular climb.
West side
West Face and South Flank. PD; 6h from Pilatte hut.
Normal route. Normal route from La Bárarde.
Devies-Gervasutti. TD+; IV/V; 1050m.
Mont Pelvoux3946
  • Pointe Puiseux (3946m)
  • Pointe Durand (3923m)
Bigger and even more complex than Ailefroide.
SW side
Couloir Coolidge & Traverse. IV PD+/G3; IV/PD/35°; 1250m.
From Ailefroide (1506m) via Couloir Coolidge on SW Flank to Point Durand.
Le Coup de Sabre3448
Central of the three cols on the north side between Mont Pelvoux and Ailefroide.
Couloir Nord de Coup de Sabre. II D; II/AI2/60°, avg. 54°; 450m, 2,5-4h from bivouac above glacier Noir, 6,5-8h from Cézanne. 1895-07-17First ascentA.Reynier, C.Verne, C. & M.Gaspard & J.Turc, 1895-07-17.
Central of the three cols on the north side between Mont Pelvoux and Ailefroide. Descent to south via easier couloir to Sélé hut, 1,5h.

Northwestern Alps

Graian Alps

Gran Paradiso4061
Considered as an easy 400m peak. Very popular.
1860-01-01
Gran Paradiso, ,
First ascent
J.J. Cowell, W. Dundas, J. Payot & J. Tainaz
West face
West flank. PD-/G2-3; 35°, II; 1350m, 4-5h.
Normal route. Very popular. From the hut snow climb along wide path (35°). Final meters have some rock climbing (II and I).
East face
East Face. Mixed, AD; II, 50°; 900m, 4-5h from Pol Bivouac (3183m).
North side
NW face (North face). Ice/snow, IV D-; IV/D/50-55°; 600m (11 pitches).
Ice or snow climb.
North Ridge Integral. D; IV and III; 1700m, 15h from Leonessa Bivouac.
Grivola3969
SE Face
SE Face. G3; II.
To summit via SE Face.
Via Normale. PD; 1380m, 5-6h.
Normal route. From Vittoria Sella hut (2588m) via glacier de la Rousse, Col de la Noire (3491m) and Colle de la Groivola (3738m).
Roche Melon (Rocciamelone)3538
Roche Melon was the first high Alpine peak to be either attempted or successfully climbed. Bonifacius Rotarius of Asti built a small chapel on the summit, which still stands today.

Glarus Alps

Titlis3240
Clariden3267
Located in Uri/Glarus..

Very popular ski mountain due to easy access both from Zürich and Luzern. Especially South and East faces and East Pillar are impressive.

Lepontine Alps & Adula Alps

Monte Leone46.2497228.1102783553
Lepontine Alps, Switzerland, located close to the city of Brig..

The highest peak of Lepontine Alps and the most important peak in Simplon pass (2005m) area. NW side has ice routes while North, NE and south sides have rock routes. Popular also on skis between March and June.

Eastern Alps

Northern Eastern Alps (Northern limestone Alps)

Wetterstein/Mieminger

Zugspitze47.42111110.9852782962
Germany, Wettersteingebirge, Located at border between Austria and Germany in Wetterstein range, immediately south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen..

Highest mountain in Germany and correspondingly popular.

First ascent by G.Deutschl, Maier & K. Naus in 1820.

Jubiläumsgrat
6 km long, exposed ridge joining Zugspitze and Alpspitze (2620m). There are several summit starting from Zugspitze: Innere Höllentalspitze (2737m), Mittlere Höllentalspitze (2740m), Äussere Höllentalspitze (2716m), Vollkarspitze (2630m).
Jubiläumsgrat. Ferrata, II (via ferrata); 500m ascent, 800m descent. 1-2 days (There is Höllentalgrathütte bivouac hut between Mittlere and Äussere Höllentalspitze).
Popular climb during the summer. Possible on both directions.
NE Ridge
Höllentalsteig (Bayerische Normalweg, NE ridge). Ferrata, F+/G2; via ferrata C; 7-8h, 2200m.
Normal route. Slightly harder than Tiroler normal route and considered to be nicer. It is possible to stay at Höllentalangerhütte (1379m) on the route.
Tiroler Normalweg. Ferrata, I; 1750m, 6-7h from Zugspitzbahn station in Ehrenwald (1228m).
Normal route. Easiest route to the summit. It is Possible to sleep in Wiener-Neustädter Hut (2209m).

Berchtesgadener Alps

Hochkönig2941
Südwand
Gloria Patria. VI/eVII; 550m, 18 pitches, 6h.
Kesselpfeiler
Kesselpfeiler (Precht). VI/eVI-; 400m, 15 pitches, 4h.
Watzmann47.55527812.9233332713
  • Hocheck
  • Mittelspitze
  • Südspitze (Schönfeldspitze)
Germany, Berchtesgadener Alps. Highest mountain in the German part of Berchtesgadener Alpen and the second highest in Germany. Very popular. Traverse over three summits is popular route with UIAA II, via ferrata). 1800m high east face is one of the highest faces in the Alps and has several routes with technical difficulties starting at UIAA III. There are also several climbing routes on Klein Watzmann and Watzmannkinder.
1900-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Ascent
During the fourth ascent of Ostwand, the first fatal accident took place as Christian Schöllhorn from Munich (Germany) fell 50 meters to the Bergschrung of a glacier, later known as Shöllhorngletscher. After the accident guides were officially forbidden to climb on Ostwand. The forbid was in force until 1909. From then on over 100 people have died on the mountain.
1900-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Event
East face, Herman Buhl
1784-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Hocheck, botanist Georg Anton Weitzenbach
1799-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Südspitze, Valentin Stanic, chaplain of Salzburg via Hocheck
1868-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Ostawand was climbed in its northernmost part
1871-02-01
Watzmann, ,
First winter ascent
Johann Ilsanker ('Stanzl') with a partner
1881-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
True first ascent however was made in 1881 as http://www.watzmann.de/homepage/berg/geschichte/kederbacher/kederbacher.html Johann Grill ('Kederbacher') succeeded to climb from Eiskapelle to the South Summit. Kederbacher (1835-1917) was the first authorised mountain guide in Germany. He studied the face with a telescope from Gotzenalm and found a route via two glaciers.
1898-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Event
Cabin was build on Hocheck in 1898. In the same year some steps were cut in stone and rope protections were placed. Thus Watzmann became one of the first via ferratas in the Alps.
North ridge
Traverse Hocheck - Mittelspitze - Südspitze. Rock/ferrata, G2; II (via ferrata); 2500m, 10-15h, 26km (1-2 days). 1871-01-01First ascentJohann Punz and Johann Stüdl, 1871.
Normal route. Wimbachbrücke 600 m - Watzmannhaus 1928 m 31/2 h, 902 Watzmannhaus 1928 m - Hocheck 2651 m I, 2 h, 921 Hocheck 2651 m - Mittelspitze 2713 m - Südspitze 2712 m II, 11/2-2 h, 922 Südspitze 2712 m - Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m 21/2-4 h, 941A Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m - Wimbachbrücke 600 m 21/2 h, 667 .
  • AV #902,#921,#922,#941A,#667
Hocheck, Ostwand (Hocheck, East face)
Ostpfeiler "Goedeke". Rock, V+/eVI; 650m, 22 pitches, 6,5h.
Mittelspitze, Ostwand (Mittelspitze, East face)
Lapuch/Wieder. Rock, III-/eIII+; 700m, 4h.
Südspitze, Ostwand (Südspitze, East face)
1800 meter high Ostwand (thus highest face in Eastern Alps) was for long considered as impossible to climb until in 1881 a climber from Ramsau, a village on the foot of the mountain, finally succeeded. Nowadays Ostwand is not considered technically extremely difficult in climbers standards - for a lay man it's still Im-possible. The mere scale of the wall however makes it challenge enough for most climbers. There's bivouac hut at 2340m.
  • All routes begin at Eiskapelle (900m), the lowest located place on the Alps with permanent snow. Access by boat from Königssee.
Berchtesgadener Weg. Rock, III+/eIV+; 1800m, 7h.
Easiest of the routes on Ostwand. Found as an accident as trying to ascent Münchner Weg in 1947.
  • AV #946
Kederbacherweg. Mixed/rock, IV-; 1800m.
  • AV #945
Müchnererweg. Rock, IV; 1800m.
  • AV #948
Salzburgerweg. Rock, IV+,A0; 1800m.
  • AV #947
Frankfurterweg (Directissima). Rock, V; 1800m.
  • AV #949
Klein Watzmann (Watzmannfrau)
Watzmannkinder
Hochkalter2607
Located very close to Watzamnn, separated from it by a beautiful Wimbachklamm valley..Home to Blaueisgletscher, the northernmost glacier in the Alps. Blaueishütte (1680m), access from Hintersee (2,5h).
Hoher Göll2522

Popular peak close to Salzburg.

Normal routes are hikes with some easy climbing (Salzburger Steig, I; via Pflugtal, II, 5h; via Alpeltal, I), but there are tens of climbing routes, especially on West face. Some routes on the West face are extremely difficult, for example "caramouche" UIAA IX+/X-, done by famous Alexander & Thomas Huber.

West Face (Westwand)
Kleiner Trichter. 400m, 16 pitches, 4,5h.
Brandenstein (Alte Westwand). Rock, 280m, 10 pitches, 2,5h. 1920-01-01First ascentBrandenstein, 1920.
Classic. Mostly solid, slabby rock. In the lower part, several more direct variants possible (IV or more). Bolts on stands.
West Face (Direkte Westwand). 4h. 1921-01-01First ascentJ.Aschauer & J.Kurz, 1921.
Partially loose and dangerous.
West Ridge. 6-8h from Scharitzkehl. 1900-01-01First ascentA. & G.Schulze, 1900.
Long panoramic ridge.
East Face (Ostwand)
East Face (Ostwand). 8-9h from Golling. 1899-01-01First ascentH.Pfanul & Th. Maischberger, 1899.
Also possible during the winter (April-May), then 820m ice route, 50°.
East Face diedre (Kurt-Lager Gedächtnisweg, Ostwandverschneidung). 800m, 3-5h. 1976-01-01First ascentF.Gruber, H.Hüttiger & G.Breistein, 1976.
East Face Direct (gerade Ostwand). 900m, 5h. 1832-01-01First ascentHöllenbacher & Holzner, 1832.
North Face (Nordwand)
North Face Direct (Gerade Nordwand).
SW Face
SW Face. 3h. 1924-01-01First ascentE.Gretschmann & J.Schmidt, 1924.
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge)
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge). I; 2,5-3h.
Via ferrata from Kehlsteinhaus. Can be climbed also without using the via ferrata, then II-IV depending on the chosen line.
Salzburger Steig. 2,5h. 1801-01-01First ascentStanig (probably earlier ascent by hunters), 1801.
From Purtscheller Haus.
Torrenerjoch-Hoher Göll traverse. 4-5h.
Popular ridge traverse from Torrenerjoch (Stahlhaus, easily reached Jennerbahn ski lift) via Jägerkreuz, Hohes Brett, Grosse Archenkopf and Kleine Archenkopf to summit. Descent either along Mannlgrat to Kehlsteinhaus or Salzburger Steig to Purtscheller Haus.
Untersberg1973
  • Salzburger Hochtron
  • Berchtesgadener Hochtron

Located on the border of Germany and Austria, very close to city of Salzburg.

Berchtesgadener Hochtron, South Face
  • East Face III-, II 390m, 2-3h Wieder & Hütter
  • Direkter Südostpfeiler (Schimkepfeiler) Popular route, stands equipped V+ (passages), mostly V and IV (or V-, A0) 300m, 3-4h H.Reisch & K.Schimke
  • South Face "Barth-Niedermayer" Very popular, bolted III+ (eIV) (passages), otherwise III and II 230m (9 pitches), 2-3h Barth & Niedermayer
  • Barthkamin IV+ (eVI+) 200m, 10 pitches
  • Hinterstoisser/Kurz VI or V,A0 (eVI+) 200m, 9 pitches
Salzburger Hochtron, East Face
  • Dreierweg Stands equipped III 300m, 2h L.Schifferer, H.Feichtner & V.Raitmayer
  • Diedre (Oswandverschneidung) Slab & crack climbing on good rock. Stands equipped IV- (passages), otherwise III 250m, 2h E.Schlager & S.Dumler
Salzburger Hochtron, South Face
  • South Arete IV, mostly IV- and III 150m (4 pitches), 2h Otte & co.
  • South Face Very popular. III- (10m), otherwise II 100m, 1h G.Starke

Dachstein

Hoher Dachstein2995

Hoher Dachstein is the main peak of the Dachsteingruppe, the highest peak of Styria and Upper Austria and the second highest peak of the Northern Limestone Alps.

It's a lofty, rugged and beautiful peak, with glaciers to the North and a steep rock face to the south.

1832-01-01
Hoher Dachstein, ,
First ascent
P.Gappmeyer
East Face
Randkluftsteig (NE Face). Ferrata, G3; II/Via ferrata B/C; 250m.
Normal route. Via Ferrata through East Face. Via ferrata starts at Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet Hut, 2720m).
West side
Linzer Weg & traverse. PD-/G3; I+/via ferrata A/B; 250m/800m, 3,5h from hut to Hunekogen ski lift via East face klettersteig.
Via Gosau glacier to Obere Windlucke on the West Ridge. Also possible from Hunerkogel ski lift. Then along the west ridge (fixed gear) to the summit. West ridge is the easiest route on Hohe Dachstein. Descent via East face Klettersteig.
South Face
Der Johann (South Face Ferrata). Ferrata, Via Ferrata D/E; 1050m, Approach 2h, via ferrata 3h, descent to cable car 0,5h.
Very difficult Via ferrata from Dachstein Südwand hut (1871m) to Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet hut, 2720m). Along the East face via ferrata to summit.
Steinerweg. Rock, V-,A0, mostly IV and IV+; 850m (24 pitches), 5-9h. 1909-01-01First ascentG. & F. Steiner, 1909.
Classic. Alpine rock classic.
Pichlweg. IV-, mostly II and III+; 700m, 4-6h. 1901-07-27First ascentE. Pichl, F. Gams & F. Zimmer, 1901-07-27.
Torstein2948
Located in the westernmost part of the massif..The second highest peak of the massif
1900-01-01
Torstein, ,
Event

Central Eastern Alps

Albula Alps

Piz Kesch3418
  • Piz Kesch
  • Piz Kesch
  • Piz Kesch
Bündner Alps/Albula Alps

The highest mountain of Bündner Alps and Albula Alps. There is a small glacier on the north side while south face is mostly rock. There are three summits, West (3418m),Central (3405m) and East (Keschnadel, 3386m). The lowest east summit is the most spectacular with climbing routes on it. NE Ridge AD+, IV,5-6h) is a classic. Most difficult climbs are found on East face (TD-, V+, A2).

Rhätikon & Silvretta

Piz Linard3411
Located in southern part of the group, some 25km away from Piz Kesch..The highest mountain in Silvretta group. Quite popular peak with several routes. SE Ridge (III), S Ridge (II) and North Ridge (II) all offer more interesting alternative to the normal route.
South side
South Face and SW Ridge. AD/G3; II-III; 4-5h.
Weilenmannrinne (South Flank). PD; II (passages) and I; 550m. 1600m, 10-11h roundtrip.
Normal route. Easiest route. Stone fall dander.
Piz Buin3312
  • Grand Piz Buin (East summit)
  • Little Piz Buin (West summit)
Piz Buin is the most famous mountain in the area and very popular both in summer and in winter.
1865-01-01
Piz Buin, ,
First ascent
J.A. Specht, J. Weilenmann, Pöll & Pfitcher
West side
via W Flank & NW Ridge. F+/PD/E1; I+/II, 30°; 1280m, 4h.
Normal route. From Bielerhöhe (2036m) via Wiesbadener Hut (2443m). Either across Vermont glacier or via Ochsentaler glacier (crevasses) to Buinlücke (3056m). From there via West Face and NW Ridge to summit.
West Ridge. G3; 45°; 1700m, 6,5h.
From Guarda (1653m) via Chamanna Tuoi (2250m), Crosnel (2659m), Fuorcla Buin (3054m) and West Flank.
Silvrettahorn3244
Dreiländerspitze3197
Located in Silvretta, on the border between Switzerland, and Austrian Cantons of Tyrol and Vorarlberg..Architecrutally beautiful summit of ice and rock.
1870-07-14
Dreiländerspitze, ,
First ascent
Doctor Theodor Petersen with unknown companions
NW Flank & W Ridge. Glacier, F+/PD/G3; I-II on the rock ridge between north summit and south summit, 30°; 750m, 2,5-3h.
Normal route. Easy glacier route with short snow slope and rock ridge. From Galtür (1584m) to Wiesbadener Hut (2443m) via Vermunt Glacier.

Ötztaler Alps

Wildspitze3770
  • South summit
  • North summit

Highest mountain in Ötztal Alps and 2nd highest mountain is Austria.

Easiest ascent is short glacier climb thanks to cable car leading to Mittelberg. North and NW Faces are classic ice faces (300m).

North Face (Nordwand)
North Face (Nordwand). Ice, AD+; 50°; 300m, 2,5h.
Classic. Classic ice climb with height of around 300m. During the summer passing the bergschrund can be the crux.
West side
via Mitterkarjoch. F/PD; 45°/M3, I-II; 950m, 3,5h.
Normal route. Glacier climb starting from Breslauer Hut (2840m) via Mitterkarjoch (45°, I-II, M3).
East side
Petersen Route. PD; II; 900m.
South side
Weisskugel (Palla Bianca)3739

Second highest peak in Ötztal and 3rd highest in Austria.

Can be climbed from five huts in different valleys. The normal routes join at Hinterersjoch (3471m). All normal routes are basic glacier ascents (F/PD-).

North side
North Ridge. 1250m, 6-8h roundtrip from Weisskukugel hut.
Long glacier ridge route, one of the nicest routes in Ötztal. Both shorter and nicer than the normal route.
NW Face. Ice, 350m (face), 1200m (from Weisskukugel hut), 5-6h.
Good conditions normally only during the spring (around eastern).
Normal route. 1250m, 4h.
Normal route. The easiest way up is from Weisskugel hut (Rifugio Pio XI alla Palla Bianca, 2544m) up the Langtauferer Ferner to the Weisskugeljoch (this can be reached also from Hochjochspiz with similar difficulty). After that up to the summit in a loop from south east.
East Ridge. 900m, 5h.
From Rifugio Bellavista (2842m).
Similaun3606

Stubaier Alps

Zuckerhütl3505
Highest mountain in Stubai Alps and also the most popular.
1863-01-01
Zuckerhütl, ,
First ascent
Specht & Tanzer
East side
East Ridge. Glacier, 1380m, 4h.
Normal route. Glacier Route from Dresdner hut via Pfaffensattel and East Ridge.
North Face
North Face. Ice, 200m.

Zillertal Alps

Hochfeiler (Gran Pilastro)3510
Highest mountain in Zillertal.
1865-07-24
Hochfeiler, ,
First ascent
P.Grohmann, P.Fuchs & G.Samer
North Face (Nordostwand)
North Face (Nordostwand). Ice, AD+/D-; 55°, avg. 45°; 350m, 1,5-4h. 1887-01-01First ascentF.Dyck & H.Hörhage, 1887.
Classic. Classic ice climb.
SW side
SW Ridge. F/PD-/G2; I (short passage); 950m, 3h.
Normal route. From hut via SW Flank and WSW Ridge.
Hochferner3463
  • Hochferner
  • Griessferner (Hochferner NW)
Located in Zillertal, very close to Hochfeiler..North face is one of the longest ice faces in the Eastern Alps.
Hochfeiler, Nordwand
Ice, 45°, direct variant 80-85°; 950m.
ice climb.
Griessferner, Nordwand
Griessferner. Ice, 50°, variants with 60-85°; 950m. 1942-01-01First ascentB. Herbst, T. Hackl & H. Veiglhuber, 1942.
ice climb.
Traverse from Hochfeiler. G1-2; 950m.
Grosser Möseler3479

Second highest summit in Zillertaler Alps.

Mostly climbed from southern (Italian) side as the northwest face (classic ice climb) is much harder than the southern side.

South side
From South. F+; 3,5h.
North side
From West via S Ridge. PD-/G2-3; I and II (short passage), 35°; 1200m, 3,5h. 1878-01-01First ascentW.Fickeis, F.Kirschker & G.Samer, 1878.
Normal route. normal route from the north side. Via Schlegeisoch, Furtscheglkeel (2727m) and Felsköpfl (2985m) to summit ridge. Glacier very crevassed.
Northwest Face (Firndreieck). Ice, 60° (avg. 53°) on NW Ridge 50°, II and III; 250m/1440m, 6-7h. 1879-01-01First ascentOtto & Emil Zsigmondy, A.Böhm & Worafka, 1879.
Classic. Classic ice climb.
Mittelfelsgrat (2 NO Grat & Schönbichler Horn). Rock, III+.
Classic ice climb.
Olperer3476
1879-01-01
Olperer, ,
First ascent
Paul Grohmann, Jakob Samer and Jakob Huber via SE Ridge
Schneegupfgrat (Southeast Ridge)
Schneegupfgrat (Southeast Ridge). 1090m, 3-4h. 1879-01-01First ascentPaul Grohmann, Jakob Samer and Jakob Huber, 1879.
North Ridge
North Ridge. 1150m, 4h from Geraer hut. 1900-01-01Event .
Normal route. Easiest route. Short glacier approach folllowed by beautiful and exposed, but well protected climbing on the North Ridge.
SW Ridge
SW Ridge. 950m, 7h.
From Spannagel hut via Wildlahnerscharte to SW Ridge and further to the summit.
Grosses Löffler3376
From West via S Ridge. 1150m, 3,5h.
Normal route. Starting at parking lot at Dristenbachalm (1179m, accessible from Ginzling-Dornauberg (985m)) to Greizer hut (2227m). Via Flaitenkees and South Ridge to the summit. Creavassed glacier and moderate climbing in block terrain on the summit ridge.
Zsigmondyspitze (Feldkopf)3087
Beautiful steep pyramide, "Matterhorn of Zillertal". One of the most important climbing mountains in Zillertal.
1879-07-24
Zsigmondyspitze, ,
First ascent
Emil & Otto Szigmondy
South side
SE Ridge. AD-; III- (short passage), II; 200m, 1-2,5h. 1830m, 11h from Ginzling-Darrenberg. 1879-07-24First ascentEmil & Otto Szigmondy, 1879-07-24.
South Ridge. V- (2 places), otherwise III and IV-; 1050m (technical part 200m), 5h.
Steep arete with good holds.
North side

Southern Eastern Alps

Julian Alps

Triglav46.38333313.8833332863
Slovenia, Julian Alps.

Southern and eastern faces have some routes. However, by far the most sought after climbing destination is Stena, the North Face. It has great number of routes ranging between moderate alpine classics and desperate.

Most of the climbs are started from Aljaz Lodge (1015m), conveniently located in Vrata valley, below the north face. Access to it is from village of Mojstrana (11km by road or 2,5h walk in). Mojstrana is located some 10km away from Jesenice, which can be reached by t6rain from Villach (Austria) or Ljubljana. Ljublsjana, located only 50km away, is the closest international airport.

  • Klinar Stanko: How to climb Triglav/triglav, ein kürzer Führer. Planinska Zveza Slovenije, 1991.
North Face (stena)
The North Face (Stena) is 1000m high two kilometres wide wall of limestone, one of the grandest walls in Eastern Alps. The easiest routes on the Face follow large chimney/gully systems and are graded II or III. However, some sections are really steep, notably the Sphinx in the upper right part of the face - a partially vertical, partially overhanging tower on the right side of the Face dropping from a point on the West Ridge.
  • 1,5h walk from Aljaz hut (1015m)
Bavarian route (Bavarska Smer). IV+; 700m, 4-5h. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m). 1926-09-06First ascentGeorg Kuglstatter & Hans Unger, 1926-09-06.
German route (Nemska Smer). D+; IV-; 1200m. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m).
Slovenian route (Slovenska Smer). III, mostly II; 800m. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m).
Tominsek Route. Ferrata,
Normal route. From Aljaz hut (1015m) via Tominsek-Weg (via ferrata) to Triglav hut (2515m). Further along East Ridge (via ferrata) to summit.
WSW Ridge - SE Ridge. F; 1850m.
Skrlatica2740
Mangart2678
Jalovec2645