Königsspitze, Monte Zebru and Ortles from east. Source: . Credit: Vince51 Shot in Sulden, Italy. .
Königsspitze, Monte Zebru and Ortles from east. Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:K%C3%B6nigsspitze-Ortler-Panorama.jpg. Credit: Vince51 Shot in Sulden, Italy. .

General info

Ortler Alps lie in in South Tirol, northern part of Italy, south of Ötztal Alps of Austria and west of Dolomites. Ortler Alps consist of two sub groups, Ortles-Cevedale group located close to Sulden and Adamella-Presanelle group located further south. Highest and most famous peaks Ortler (3905m), Königsspitze (Gran Zebru), Monte Cevedale (3769m) and Zebru are located in Ortles-Cevedale group. Cima Presanella (3558m) and Monte Adamello (3554m) are the dominant peaks of the Adamello-Presanella group.

Geographic layout

The area is bordered by Vinschgau in north, Etschtal (Meran) on NE and Nonstal in SE, Val di Sole in south, Valle delle Messi, Val di Gavia, Val de Braulie and upper Addatal (Veltlin). The area is heavily glaciated and is home to highest mountains of central Eastern Alps. Main ridge runs in a curve more or less from west to east with numerous subranges that connect to main ridge. There are also few smaller subgroups that are not connected to main ridge.

  • Ortles-Cevedale The highest and most popular peaks of the area, Ortler (3905m), Königsspitze (Gran Zebru), Monte Cevedale (3769m) and Zebru are located on the western part of the main ridge.
    • Fallatschkamm (Cresta Vallazza)
    • Umbrail Group
    • Kristallkamm (Cresta del Cristallo)
      • Eiskögel
    • Ortlerhauptkamm (Cresta Principale dell'Ortles)
    • Laas-Marteller Kamm (Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa)
    • Marteller Hauptkamm (Cresta Principale di Martello)
    • Cevedale–Vioz–San Matteo (Forni) Group
    • Ultentalkamm (Cresta Val Ultima)
    • Saboretta-Gavia Group
  • Adamello-Presanella Adamello-Presanella group lies further south of main Ortler Group. Despite its southern location, the area boasts Mandrone glacier, the biggest one in Italy. Cima Presanella (3558m) and Monte Adamello (3554m) are the dominant peaks of the area. North Face of Presanella (AD+/D-, 50-55°, 500m) is probably the best known climb in the area.

Logistics

Most of the high peaks are most readily accessed either from Sulden (in Suldental, 1906m) or from upper Addatal (Veltlin) where Bormio (1217m) is main city. Closest major city is Bolzano in Italy. Sulden can be reached by car from Bozen via Meran or from Fernpass via Landeck and Reschenpass. There's a train connection to Meran, from there Sulden can be reached by bus (SAD, change in Spondinig).

Accommodation

Suldental
  • Tabaretta hut2556
  • Hintergrat Hut (Rifugio del Coston, Rifugio Alto del Coston)2661
  • Bivacco Citta di Cantu (Hochjochbiwak)3535
  • Payerhütte (Julius Payer Hut)3020
  • Tschierfeckhütte (Bivacco Lombardi)3316
  • K2 hut2330
  • Rifugio G. Casati (Casati hut, Casatihütte)3254
  • Schaubachhütte2573
  • Düsseldorfer hut2721
Tabarettatal
  • Bivacco Citta di Cantu (Hochjochbiwak)3535
  • V° Alpini Hut (Alpini hut, Rifugio V° Alpini)2878
  • Payerhütte (Julius Payer Hut)3020
  • Tschierfeckhütte (Bivacco Lombardi)3316
Valle di Cedec
  • Pizzini hut2700
  • Rifugio G. Casati (Casati hut, Casatihütte)3254
Martelltal
  • Rifugio G. Casati (Casati hut, Casatihütte)3254
Val Genova
  • Bivacco Roberti2205
Val di Vermiglio
  • Rifugio Denza2298
Miller Valley
  • Rifugio Gnutti2298
  • Bivacco Ugolini3240

Climbing info

About climbing in Ortler Alps

Both Ortler and Königsspitze (Gran Zebru) are classics along the normal routes. North Faces of Ortler, Königsspitze and Zebru as well as Langer Suldengrat on Königsspitze are likely the best known harder rock climb. In Adamella-Presanella group both Adamello and Presanella are reasonably straight-forward along the normal routes. North Face of Presanella (AD+/D-, 50-55°, 500m) is probably the best known climb in the area.

Guidebooks and maps

Valleys

Vinschgau

The northern border of Ortles-Cevedale group is formed by Vinshgau valley (Val Venosta). It extends from Nauders in Swirland by the junction with Engadin valley first towards SE via Resch and Mals, then east to Schlanders, Latsch and Naturns before junction with Etschtal by Meran. There are several side valley towards south. Of these, by far the most most important for climbers is two-pronged valley system with Tabarettatal and Suldental.

Müstair-Münstertal

Due SW of Glurns. Müstair (1273m), Santa Maria in Müstair (1375m), Umbrailpass (2503m). Further through the pass to Bormio (1225m)

Another branch towards west from Santa Maria in Müstair with Fuldera (1638m), Tschierv and Ofenpass (2149m). Further by the pass to Zernez.

Tabarettatal

Western branch of the valley system towards south from Prad am Stilfser Joch. Trafoi (1543m) further up the valley can be used as base for climbing. road through the valley leads to passo Stelvio (Stilfser joch), famous for it's often prominent role as part if Giro d' Italia.

In Tabarettatal the largest hut is Berglhütte which is used for:

  • Trafoier Eiswand
  • Thurwiserspitze, North face
  • Monte Zebru, normal route

There is also bivouac hut bivacco Pellicciolli (3230m, 5h from Trafoi), located close to Trafoier Eiswand and Thurwiserspitze.

Although Payerhütte (3029m) is located in Trabaretta valley, it is most commonly accessed from Suldental via Tabarettahütte.

Suldental

Suldental (val di Soldo) is the eastern branch of the valley system towards south from Prad am Stilfser Joch. Sulden in the upper valley is the most important valley base for climbing in Ortler group. It is the most common access to most of the frequented routes. There are number of huts and ski-lifts making accessing the climbs reasonably comfortable.

From the main valley Langensteinlift heads up to K2 hut (2330m). The hut itself can be used to access climbs on SE side of Ortler (Marlgrat) but it is most commonly used as a starting point to get to either Tabarettahütte (2556m, 1h from K2 hut) or Hintergrathütte (2661m). Main climb from Tabarettütte is Ortler North face. Further from Tabarettahütte it is possible to cross the main ridge to gain access to Payerhütte (3029m, 1,5h), located at the foot of Ortler's Tabaretta Ridge. There's also bivouac hut Lombardi on the Tabaretta ridge.

Schaubachtal has two important starting points, Hintergrathütte (2661m) and Schaubachtalhütte (2573m). The former is most conveniently accessed from Sulden via K2 hut, the latter with the lift directly from Sulden. Both huts can be used to reach several important climbs:

  • Ortler, Hintergrat
  • Königsspitze, North face
  • Königsspitze, Suldengrat
  • Zebru, North face

Bivacco di Cantu is located high up on Zebru providing access to Ortler's Hochjochgrat.

To NE of Sulden lies Zaytal with Zaytalhütte (Rifugio Serristorri, 2727m, 1,.5-2,5h from Sulden depending whether the lift is used). it is used for climbs on:

  • Hoher Angelus, North side
  • Hoher Angelus, West side
  • Verteinspitze, North side
  • Verteinspitze, West side

Val di Lasa

Shorter valley south of Lasa.

Martelltal

Martelltal (Val Martello). Martello (1312m). Enziahütte (2051m), Zufallhütte (Rif. Nino Corsi, 2265m).

Ultental

Ultental (Val d'Ultimo). St. Walburgen, St. Nikolaus

Etschtal

Meran

Nonstal

SE of Ortles-Cevedale

Val di Sole

Large valley to the south of Ortles-Cevedale, separating Ortler group in the north and Adamello-Presanella group to the south. Passo Tonale (1883m) at the head of the valley. Some of the towns in the valley are Vermiglio, Peio, Dimaro, Croviana and Malè (the main town).

On the other side of the pass (and in the same direction as the Vermiglio Valley) begins the valley of the river Oglio which flows to Edolo and Aprica. Ponte di Legno in the upper part of the of the valley.

Val di Gavia

Northern side valley from Ponte di Legno in Oglio valley leads to passo Gavia, which connect the valley to Valfurva and Bormio.

Peio Valley

Val di Rabbi

Veltlin

Veltlin (Valtellina) is long west-east valley from lago di Como with Morbegno, Sondrio and Bormio (1217). Addatal to Stilfser Joch connects Valtellina with Tabarettatal and Vinscgau. Valfurna towards SE from Bormio with Santa Caterina is another important side valley of Valtellina.

  • Sertori Italy Central #8

Addatal

Bormio (1217m) is main city.

Valfurva

Most climbs in the southern part of Ortles-Cevedale group are most readily accessed from Valfurva (S. Antonio (1696m), Santa Caterina (1730m)).

From S. Antonio to Rifugio Campo and further to the road end at 2159m with valley taxi. From there to Rifugio V° Alpini-Bertarelli (2865m, 1,5h from the road end).

  • Thurwiserspitze, from south
  • Monte Zebru, normal route
  • Königsspitze, South side
  • Königsspitze, West side

Further south, road goes from Valfurva to Rifugio Forni (2176m) from where path leads to Rifugio Pizzini (2706m).

  • Königsspitze, normal route
  • Monte Cevedale - Palòn de la Mare traverse

Still further to the south, Rifugio Branca (2463m) is used to access the southernmost climbs of the area.

  • Palòn de la Mare, West side
  • Palòn de la Mare, South side
  • Punta San Matteo, normal route
  • All peaks between Monte Cevedale and Pizzo Trésero from the west

Mù - Lezza - Beinno - lago d'Iseo.

Long north-south valley from Mù in val di Sole forming the western border of Adamello-Presanella group. Road from Breno northern end of lago d'Idro in the east marks the southern end of higher peaks.

Val Melednio-Val Rendena

Nort-South valley between Presanella-Adamello group in the west and Brenta Dolomites to the east. Madonna di Campiglio (1524m) and Pinzolo (765m) are the main cities on the northern valley. Further south road from Trento in the east leads to the valley at Tiene di Trento. Further south, lago d'Idro is the main feature before the the mountains get lower further south. Road from northern end of lago d'Idro leads to Breno, located on the valley to the west of Adamello-Presanella group.

From there access to Rifugio Bedale (1584m)) in Val Genova and further to Rifugio Mandrane Citta di Trento (2449m)

  • Cresta della Crose, Nortdostgrat
  • Labbbia Alta, Südrücken
  • Adamella, normal route

Malga Vallina d'Arola (1911m, road) in Val Nambrey) and further to Rifugio Segutini (2373m, 1,5h).

  • Presenalle, SE side
  • Val Camonica (Adamello). at Guide Alpine della Lombardia.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 71 Adamello - Presanella1:50 000
  • Touring Club Italiano: D63 Gruppo Adamello-Presanella1:50 000
  • Gruppo dell'Adamello-PresanellaEdizioni Multigraphic. 1:25000
  • Carta delle zone turistische d'Italia (TCI): Adamello1:50 000

val Daone

Ice fall mecca of Brenta.

  • Sertori Italy Central #8

Mountains

Ortles-Cevedale

Kristallkamm (Cresta del Cristallo)

  • Grosser Eiskogel (Grande Cono di Ghiaccio) (3535m)
  • Kleiner Eiskogel (Piccolo Cono di Ghiaccio) (3503m)
Grosser Eiskogel (Grande Cono di Ghiaccio)3535
Often climbed in combination with East ridge of Thurwiesenspitze.
Nordwand
Nordwand. 60°; 400m, 3-4h.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 55
  • Holl 587
Kleiner Eiskogel (Piccolo Cono di Ghiaccio)3503
Nordwand
Nordwand. 45°; 300m, 1-2h.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 54
  • Holl 587
Thurwieserspitze (Punta Thurwieser)46.49583310.5244443652
SW of Ortler pass and east of Trafoier Eiswand. Connectied to the latter with Bäckmanngrat, a classic ridge. NW face has few mixed routes around 400m high and 55-60 degrees steep.
NW face
Few mixed routes around 400m high and 55-60 degrees steep.
  • Holl 576
Ostgrat
Ostgrat. AD; 50°; 774m, 3h. 1869-08-20First ascentTh. Hampprecht & J. Schnell, 1869-08-20.
Normal route. Often combined with Grosaser Eiskogel.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 26
  • Holl 566
Westgrat
Ridge joining Thurwieserspitze and Trafoier Eiswand. Often climbed from Trafoier Eiswand after climbing it by the north face.
Bäckmanngrat (Westgrat, Cresta di Bäckmann). D/D+; IV, 55°.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 25
  • Holl 574, #558
Trafoier Eiswand (Cima di Trafoi)46.49611110.51253565
Often climbed in combination with traverse over Bäckmanngrat to Thurwieserspitze. The easiest route is Wesr ridge.
North face
North face of Trafoier Eiswand consists of North face proper and NW faces. The latter is shorter with routes finishing on West ridge. However its serac causes it to be steeper. Classic route follows the rib dropping from the summit, which forms natural division of North (left) and NW (right) faces.
Trafoier Eiswand. D-; 50-55°, II; 400m, 2-4h. 1872-07-20First ascentTh. Hampprecht & P. Dangl, 1872-07-20.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 25
  • Holl 556
II, 30°; 1,5-2h from Glocknjoch, 1h more from Bivacco Locatelli.
Normal route. Via Glockenjoch.
  • Holl 549

Ortlerhauptkamm (Cresta Principale dell'Ortles)

Ortler (Cima Ortles)46.50888910.5453905
The highest mountain in the Ortler Alps of Italy. Well glaciated of offers good quality snow and ice climbing from all directions. Besides normal route (Tabarattegrat), Hintergrat and North face are popular classics. Martlgrat sees fewer climbers but it is a classic mixed ridge providing technical difficulties in the mid-grades.
1804-01-01
Ortler, ,
First ascent
Joseph Pichler and party, by command of Archduke John of Austria
Tabarettagrat (North Ridge)
Tabaretta Ridge (Tabarettagrat, Ortler Glacier Route). II PD+; III/II,A0, 45°; 900m, 3-5h from Julius Payer Hut (3029m). 1865-09-04First ascentJ.Payer & J.Pinggera, 1865-09-04.
Normal route. Easiest route and very popular. Via Tschierfeck (Tschierfeckhütte/Bivacco Lombardi) and Oberen Ortlerferner.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 22
  • Seibert pp. 47-51
  • Holl 621
North Face
Classic ice face, the longest and probably the most famous one in Eastern Alps. North face is framed by Tabarettaridge (North Ridge) and Rothbockgrat/Marltgrat (NE ridge). Separating historic routes/variants in the upper part of the face does not make sense anymore as the hanging glacier has melted. Usually best conditions between March and end of June and in October.
NNE Ridge (Rothböckgrat). D+; IV, 55°; 1200m, 5-8h. 1904-01-01First ascentRothbock, Pinggera & Angerer, 1904.
From Tabarettahütte, joins Marlergrat right before the summit and follows its upper part to top.
  • Holl 632
Direkte Nordwand. Ice,
Normal means of ascent today. Hanging glacier that used to make Direkte Nordwand more difficult than Ertl-route has completely melted.
  • Holl 626, #627
Nordwand (North Face, Ertl). Ice, IV D+; IV/AI2/50-60°, I-; 1200m. 4-8h from Tabaretta hut. 1931-06-22First ascentH. Ertl & F.Schmid, 1931-06-22.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 24
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 56
  • Holl 625
East side
East face is located between Hintergrat (left) and Martlgrat (right). The latter separates East & North faces together with Rothböckrat. Martlgrat sees fewer climbers but it is a classic mixed ridge providing technical difficulties in the mid-grades.
Schückrinne. III, 55°.
  • Holl 634
NE ridge (Nordostgrat, Marltgrat). D; III, 50°; 1100m, ridge length 1800m. Total 2200m, 6-7h. 1989-08-22First ascentFischer, L. Friedmann, Matasek, R.H. Schmitt & Krafft, 1989-08-22.
  • Holl 633
SE side
Hintergrat (ESE Ridge, Coston di Dentro). IV PD+/AD/G4; II+-III,A0, 45°; 550m/1240m, 5-6h from Hintergrat Hut. 1805-01-01First ascentHell-Pichler & Hell-Pichler, 1805.
Popular climb. From Hintergrathütte via Signalkopf (3725m) to summit.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 23
  • Seibert pp. 47-51
  • Holl 635
Untere Hintergrat. III, 45°.
Südwandrinne (Minnigerode). 45-50°; 500m, 3h.
Normal exit is somewhat less steep (45) than direct variant (50).
  • Holl 636
Südsüdostwand (Lannerführe). III, 45-50°.
Harpprechtrinne zum Hochjochgrat. III, 50°.
South side
Hochjochgrat (South Ridge). Mixed/rock, D-; IV (several points), mostly III,A0, 50°; 1300m. 1875-01-01First ascentO.Schuck, P.Dangl and A.Pinggera, 1875.
Classic. Classic climb.
  • Holl 641
Südwestgrat. IV, 50-55°.
Linke Westwand. 45-50°.
Rechte Westwand. IV, 55°.
SW side
Südwestwand (Pinggera-Tomasson). III, 50°. 1900-01-01First ascentPinggera & Tomasson.
Pichlerführe. II, 45-50°.
Soldàweg. IV, 60°.
Südwestpfeiler. V+.
Nördliche Weg durch die Südwestwand. IV.
West Ridge (Westgrat, Meranergrat, Pleishorngrat). Mixed, III PD; AI2 M2/30°, IV; 1650m, 5-6h.
  • Holl 651
Stickle-Pleiß-Rinne. IV-, 45°.
Joins Pleißhorngrat.
Nordwestwand. IV, 50°.
La casa di Asterione. V, 80°.
Via un battisto d'ali. 60°.
Monte Zebru46.49333310.5480563740
  • NW summit (3740m46.49333310.548056)
  • SE summit (3723m)
NW summit, North Face
NW summit, NE Face. IV and III, 55°; 850m, 5-7h (face only). 1956-09-20First ascentKurt Diemberger, 1956-09-20.
  • Holl 667
NW summit, NW Face. IV and III, 55-60°; 750m, 8-10h (face only). 1937-08-06First ascentK.Richter, A.Pichler & H.S.Pinggera, 1937-08-06.
  • Holl 667
NW summit, West side
NW Flank & W Ridge. PD-; 35-40°, I; 850m, 4h from Alpini hut. 1866-09-29First ascentJ.Pinggera & J.Payer, 1866-09-29.
Normal route. Over Zebru glacier.
  • Holl 664
West Face. Ice, 55°; 500m. 1895-08-06First ascentD.Chiesa & A.Zavattarelli, 1895-08-06.
ice face.
  • Holl 664a
West Ridge. Ice, III, mostly II and I, 45°; 700m, 3-4h from Alpini hut. 1890-07-16First ascentA.Baracossa, G.B.Confortola & P.Pietrogiovanna, 1890-07-16.
  • Holl 665
NW Summit, South side
Traverse from SE summit. 55°; 400m distance, 20m ascent. 3/4-1h. 1880-09-03First ascentB.Minnigerode & A.Pinggera, 1880-09-03.
  • Holl 671
SE summit, North Face (SO Gipfel, Nordostwand)
SE summit, North Face (SO Gipfel, Nordostwand). Ice, 55°, III/IV-; 870m, 5-7h (including descent). 1898-08-25First ascentBeatrice Tomasson, H.S.Pinggera & F.Reinstadler, 1898-08-25.
Classic. Classic ice climb, best conditions between May-June.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 57
  • Holl 677
SE summit, South side
SE summit, SE Ridge. III+, 55°; 291m, (length 500m), 1h. 1800-09-03First ascentB.Minnegerode & A.Pinggera, 1800-09-03.
  • Holl 672
Königsspitze (Gran Zebru)46.47861110.5683333851
Beautiful pyramid, quite possible the most majestic mountain of the Ortler group. particularly impressive from the north.
1854-08-24
Königsspitze, ,
First ascent
Stefan Steinberger via SW Flank
North Face (Nordwand)
One of the most impressive north faces in the Eastern Alps, perhaps the most impressive ice/mixed face. Sometime a huge cornice, known as Schaumrolle, forms making direct exit far for difficult and threatening the ascents.
Minnigerode (Nordostwand). Ice, 45-53°; 550m, 2,5-4h. 1881-09-21First ascentB.Minnigerode, J. & A.Pinggera & P.Reinstadler, 1881-09-21.
Pure ice route, usually best conditions in May and June.
  • Holl 696
Ertl. Ice, TD-; 55-65°, IV (one passage); 700m, 3-6h (climb itself). 1930-01-01First ascentH.Ertl & H.Brehm, 1930.
Popular, long and difficult mixed north face. Cold conditions are necessary for a safe ascent.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 29
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 58
  • Holl 689
Klinek-Gruhl. Ice, IV, 55°. 1900-01-01First ascentKlinek & Gruhl.
Schaumrolle (Direkte Nordwand, Diemberger). Ice, 55-90(+)°; 625m. 1956-09-22First ascentKurt Diemberger, Unterweger & Knapp, 1956-09-22.
mixed, more difficult than Ertl-route. Crux is very steep cornice at the top (fallen off several times after the first ascent).
  • Holl 690
Brigatti-Zangelni (Nordostwand). Ice, 1937-08-05First ascentL.Brigatti & E.Zangelni, 1937-08-05.
Pure ice route.
  • Holl 695
East side
East Flank (Ostwand). G4; 45-50°; 650m, 3h. 1864-09-17First ascentJ.A.Specht & F.Pöll, 1864-09-17.
In good conditions pure ice/firn up to 45-50°, with less ice also rock up to UIAA III.
  • Holl 698
ENE Ridge (Nordostsporn). Mixed, G5; III (sections), mostly II and I, 50° (short passages), otherwise 45°; 1100m, climbing distance 1800m, 5-6h. 1886-09-06First ascentP.Drasch & J.Jurek (part), 1886-09-06.1894-08-27First ascentV.Swoboda d'Avignon, H.Friedel, J.Pichler & F.Schöpf, 1894-08-27.
From Schaubach hut via Suldenferner and ENE Ridge.
  • Holl 698
South side
SE Spur. PD/PD+; 45°, I; 1200m, 4-5h from Pizzini hut, descent 4h. 1864-08-03First ascentF. Tucket, E. Buxton, C. Michel, M. Biner & Fr. Biner, 1864-08-03.
Normal route. Big and high alpine route with little glacier and steep snow slope. Via Königsjoch/Vedretta del Gran Zebrù (3293m) to Se ridge.
  • Seibert pp. 44-6
  • Holl 682
Südwestrinne (Pale-Rosse-Rinne). II AD+; 50°, II; 500m.
Südwestwand (Soldato delle Pale Rosse). 55°, III+.
Ghost Zebru. 95°, V,A1.
Suldengrat (NE Ridge)
Langer Suldengrat (Mitschergrat). III D-; IV and III, 55-60°; 1100m, climbing distance 2500m, 6-10h from Hintergrat hut. 1878-07-06First ascentJ.Meurer, A. Pallavicini, P.Dangl, A. & J.Pinggera, 1878-07-06.
Classic. From Hintergrat hut via Suldenjoch (3455m, IV (one point), 45-53° up to Suldenjoch), from there IV and III, 55-60°. Descent 3,5h to Casati hut.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 28
  • Holl 687
Kurzer Suldengrat
Kurzer Suldengrat. III D; IV- and III, 55-60°; 400m, climbing distance 1200m, 3-5h from Suldenjoch. 1880-07-26First ascentA.Jörg, R.Levy, J.Grill (Kederbacher) & S.Reinstadler, 1880-07-26.
Classic. To Suldenjoch (3455m) and from there along upper Suldengrat to summit.
  • Holl 686
Suldenspitze (Cima di Solda)3376
Easy routes on NE ridge, South ridge, West ridge and North flank.
  • Holl 744
über Suldenferner.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 31

Laas-Marteller Kamm (Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa)

Grosser Angelus (Hoher Angelus)46.54555610.6472223521
Located close to Sulden. Separated from Vertainspitze by Angelusscharte (3337m). Popular both during winter and summer. Normal route is SW ridge. NW face is a short ice face with short very steep section.
NW Ridge
NW Ridge (Reinstadler). Mixed, PD-; II; 800m, 7h from Düsseldorfer hut (2721m).
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 20
  • Holl 865
Nordwestwand
Linke Nordwestwand is easier than Direkt, as the steep section is both shorter and less steep.
Linke Nordwestwand. Ice, 75°, direct variant 80°; 200m.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 59
  • Holl 866
Direkte Nordwestwand. Ice, 200m.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 59
  • Holl 867
Vertainspitze (Cima Vertana)46.53861110.6347223545
  • Vertainspitze (Cima Vertana) (3545m46.53861110.634722)
  • P.3385 (3385m)
  • Happrectkuppe
The highest peak of Laas-Marteller kamm. Popular climb.
Nordwand
Jubilämspfeiler. VII-; 350m, 3-5h.
  • Holl 859
Nordwand. III D+; AI4+ M2/80°, direct variant 90°; 500m.
First part very steep, the upper part a lot slacker at 40-45.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 60
  • Holl 858
Nordwandrinne (Nürnberger Weg).
  • Holl 857
SE ridge
SE ridge. F/PD; 350m, 3-4h from the hut, 4-5h from kanzel lift. 1865-01-01First ascentJ. Payer & J. Pinggera, 1865.
Via Angelusscharte (Passo dell'Angelo).
  • Seibert pp.42-3
  • Holl 849
Traverse.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 21

Marteller Hauptkamm (Cresta Principale di Martello)

Cima Venezia46.45472210.6888893386
  • Cima Venezia I (3386m46.45472210.688889)
  • Cima Venezia II (3371m)
  • Cima Venezia III (3356m)
SW ridge
SW ridge. PD-; II-, 30°; 3h, 0-5-3/4h from Marmotta. 1867-09-24First ascentJulius Payer & Johann Pinggera, 1867-09-24.
Normal route. Via Cima Marmotta (Köllkuppe, 3330m).
  • Seibert pp.55
  • Holl 954, #959, #961
Traverse from Marteller hut.
Cima Marmotta - Cima Venezia I - Cima Venezia II - Cima Venezia III.
  • Holl 952, #961

Cevedale–Vioz–San Matteo (Forni) Group

Pizzo Tresero46.39083310.5427783593
North face
600m face above Vedretta di Cesera.
Direkte Nordwand. Ice, IV D+; 55°; 550m, 4h. 1936-07-04First ascentC. Negri & E. Prati, 1936-07-04.
  • Holl 1258
NW ridge
NW ridge. II, 45°; 1800m, 7-8h.
  • Holl 1257
Punta San Matteo46.37888910.5666673678
North face
North face. Ice, AD+; 55-60°; 400n. 1600m, 6h from Rif. Branca.
  • Holl 1228
NW ridge
NW ridge (Nordwetsgrat, Normal route). PD-.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 35
  • Seibert pp.56
  • Holl 1226
Traverse Monte Vioz - Punta San Matteo - Pizzo Tresero
Traverse from Punta San Matteo.. II; 10h.
  • Holl 1179
Monte Cevedale46.44805610.6208333769
Glacier peak with double summits, Cevedale and Zufallspitze. Usually frequented by ski alpinists during the spring.
NE ridge
NE ridge (Nordflanke & Nordostgrat, Normal route). I F+; 30°; 650m, 1,5-2h from Casati hut. 1170m, 8-9h from Schaubach hut.
Normal route. Moderate glacier route with short steep snow slope. Can be combined with descent over Zufallspitze to Marteller hut (2610m), total 5-6h.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 32
  • Seibert pp.52-4
  • Holl 1108
Monte Pasquale46.44472210.6011113553
West of Monte Cevedale, separated from it by col pascuale. Easy ascent from south side, significantly more difficult on NW and NE faces. Both north facing faces have ice/mixed routes. NW face is icier and taller (500m), NE face is 350m) and more mixed.
  • Holl 1121
North face
Both NW and NW faces have ice/mixed routes. NW face is icier and taller (500m), NE face is 350m) and more mixed.
North face (Nordwestwand). Ice, III AD+; 50°; 400/1300m, 2h/9,5h. 1945-09-05First ascentG. Provara & L. Gandolfi, 1945-09-05.
  • Holl 1127
East ridge
East ridge. 1 1/4-1 3/4h from Casati hut, 2,5-3h from Branca or Pizzini hut.
  • Holl 1122
Palòn de la Mare46.41666710.6166673703
Popular ski mountaineering obhective. Part of popular easy traverse from Monte Cevedale. NW face with difficult ice/mixed routes.
North face
NW Pillar. III, 40-45°; 700m, 5h.
  • Holl 1148
NW face. AD; III; 1550m, 10h from rif. Branca.
  • Holl 1149
NW rinne of P.3350. IV-, 60-85°; 450m, 8h.
  • Holl 1150
Traverse from Monte Cevedale. 6h.
Rifugio Gianni Casati - Monte Cevedale - Monte Rosole - Palòn de la Mare - Monte Vioz - Rif. Mantova.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 33
  • Holl 1120, #1145
Normal route.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 34

Adamello-Presanella

Cima Presanella46.21944410.6641673558
Italy, Ortler Alps, Adamello-Presanella. Located between Ortler group in the north and Amadello massif in the south in Ortler Alps. There are several middle grade (AD-TD) ice routes on the north side.
1859-01-01
Cima Presanella, ,
First ascent
anonymous climbers
North side
Together with neighboring Vermiglio, Cima Presanella forms wide north face with several ice and mixed routes. Most of the routes are in the middle grades (AD-TD) ice routes on the north side.
North Face (Parete nord). Ice, II AD+/D-; 50-55°; 500m (start at 3050m), 2,5-5h for the face. 1949-01-01First ascentR. Grandi & R. Crugnola, 1949.
Classic. Highly popular classic that steepens slightly near the top. Generally plenty of snow.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl 61
North Arete (Sperone Nord). Ice, AD; 55°; 500m. 1908-01-01First ascentG. Jahn & V. Sohm, 1908.
A valid alternative to the Parete Nord. More varied than Parete Nord due to the number of mixed sections.
Via Faustinelli. Ice, D; 55-60°; 450m. 1937-01-01First ascentG. Faustinelli & R. Maculotti, 1937.
Climbs the wide gully beneath the large summit cornice.
Via del seracco. Ice, TD+; 90°; 400m. 1963-01-01First ascentA. Cortinovis & G. Cortinovis, 1963.
Via della Goulottina (Via di sinistra del seracco). Ice, AD+; 55°; 400m.
Couloir S. Ice, TD-; 80°, III; 460m.
Silhouette. Ice, TD-; 80°; 550m. 1987-01-01First ascentS. Tedeschi, M. Valdinoci & F. Bresciani, 1987.
Granatina Gully. Ice, D+; 75°; 450m. 1980-01-01First ascentP. Berta, G. Giudicati, M. Preti & G. Seneci, 1980.
East side
South side
Normal route from SE (Südostanstieg). F/PD; II, 38°; 1200m, 4-5h from Rifugio Segantini.
Normal route. A Varied high route with short glacier sections interpersed with easy climbing and a snow ridge.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 38
  • Seibert pp. 60-1
South Ridge. G2-3; I+.
Cima Vermiglio3458
North face
Together with neighboring Presanella, Cima Vermiglio forms wide north face with several ice and mixed routes. Most of the routes are in the middle grades (AD-TD) ice routes on the north side.
Cima Adamello46.15083310.5458333554

Famous and very popular peak located in Italy between Lombardia and Trentino.

There are three normal routes: from Lombardy (NE) via Val d'Anio and Garibaldi Hut (UIAA I), from Val di Genova (NE) and Rifugio Cittá di Trento al Madrane (UIAA I) and from Malga Fabreca (south) via Rifugio Prudenzini (UIAA I, propably the most climbed route).

1949-01-01
Cima Adamello, ,
First ascent
R. Grandi & R. Crugnola
NE Side
NE Side. PD-; I-II, 30°; 1090m, 6h from Cittá di Trento al Madrane.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 37
  • Seibert pp. 58-9
SW Ridge
SW Ridge from Val Miller and via ferrata Terzulli. AD-/G3; II, 45° (150m, 40°/400m)°. 1865-01-01First ascentBackhause, Fox, Freshfield, Tuckett, Devouassoud & Michel, 1865.
Basic snow/ice climb. From Malga Premassane (1585m) via Miller Valley to Rifugio Gnutti (2166m). From there via ferrata Terzulli to Bivacco Ugolini in Passa Adamello (3240m) and along S Ridge to the summit.
Cresta della Croce3278
Nordgrat
Nordgrat.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 37
Lobbia Alta3196
Südrücken
Südrücken.
  • Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 37