Hohe Tauern

Venediger group

Austria, Hohe Tauern.
Grossvenediger, ,
First 'big' try was made in 1828 by Grand Duke (Erzherzog) Johann via NW face with Paul Rohregger and Christian Reiss. Lawine forced them to cancel their quest as Rohregger got seriously injured.
Grossvenediger, ,
First ascent
gnaz von Kürsinger via Northern Route.
Grosser Geiger3360

Glockner group

Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm

Grosses Wiesbachhorn3564
Classic pyramid shaped mountain, located just north of Grossglockner. Most famous climb is the North Face, on which the tubular ice screws were first used. Almost 2500m high SE Face is one of the highest faces in the Alps and the highest in Eastern Alps.
North side
Kaindlgrat (NE Ridge). F+/PD-; 35°, I/5.2; 768m, 2,5-3h from Heinrich Schwaiger Haus (2802m). 1867-09-09First ascentA. & P. Hetz, 1867-09-09.
Snow ridge with some rocky parts.
  • Schmitt & Pusch #81
North Face. 55°, II-III; 400m, 2,5-4h. Approach 1-1,5h. 1900-01-01First ascentWillo Welzenbach & Pritz Riegele, 924-07-15.
Historically important ice route. Crux is finding a way through rocky middle section. Starting point is Heinrich-Schwaiger Haus (2802m). Part of the mountaineering history as this was the first climb where ice screws were used. Suffers badly from melting, thus the climb often involves some mixed climbing. Therefore the best time to do this climb is spring, when usually good firn conditions can be found.
  • Jetzsch-Rabl #6
Important peak. Especially over 900m high NW face has difficult routes.
  • End #1552

Kapruner/Stubacher Kamm

Hohe Riffl3338
Located to the north of Johannisberg and Ödenwinkelscharte. Easily climbed from Pasterze (Oberwalderhütte).

Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm

Located very close to Oberwalder hut. From SE gentle ice peak, from north 250m ice face, from west 450m high rocky face.
Johannisberg, ,
First ascent
  • End #1330
Fuscherkarkopf (FKK)3331

Located very close to Oberwalder hut.

Not a very important mountain but offers various mountaineering routes and fine panorama towards Grossglockner north side.

It is also possible to climb from the south side starting from Gamsgrubenweg, but the rock is very loose on that side.

  • End #1410
Located in Tauernhauptkamm between Unterer Ödenwinkelscharte (3180m) in SW and Johannisberg (3453m) in N. Easily climbed from SE, SW and NE (all glacier ascents) but North Face is a challenging climb.
  • End #1321

Located between Hohe Riffl (3338m) and Vordere Bärenkopf (3250m), separated from the former by Riffltor (3116m) and from the latter by Führerscharte (3102m).

Climber easily via moderate firn flanks from both Riffltor and Führerscharte.

  • End #1346


Grossglockner dominates the eastern Hohe Tauern. It is the highest mountain in Austria and very popular climbing goal offering varied climbing from moderate glacier climbs (normal routes go at PD with 35° and UIAA II) to long rock/mixed ridges (Stüdlgrat with UIAA III-IV, ~AD), from classic ice climbs (Pallavicinirinne, 55°, UIAA III, 600m) of the north side to extreme routes (ie. North Face Direct). It is also very popular among ski mountaineers. mountains/europe_alps_east_grossglockner.htm <<more>>

Not really an independent mountain but rather a continuation of Grossglockner NW Ridge. Separated from Grossglockner by Untere Glocknerscharte.

Consists of several summits: Püschlturm (3721m), Hürtnagelturm (3719m), Hoffmannspitze (3711m), Peterkaturm (3711m), Weitzenbückturm (3702m), Draschturm (3701m) and Gerinturm (3700m).

Glocknerwand has few very worthwhile climbing routes. That being said, the flanks have very bad rock quality.

Glocknerwand, ,
First ascent
Peter Groder, J. Kerer & Josef Püschl
Climbed easily (G1) from Stüdlhütte (2802m). Starting point of traverse of Glocknerwand.
  • End #1110
Climbed easily (G1) from Stüdlhütte (2802m).
  • End #1137

Located in Tauernhauptkamm between Romariswandkopf NW summit (3491m) in SE and Eiskögele (3436m) in NW.

Easily climbed from Schneewinkelscharte (3412m) along SE Ridge (End #1152)

  • End #1151
  • Jetzsch-Rabl #15
Centrally located in Tauernhauptkamm. In SW Lapernwitzkees covers the summit, Gigantic north face has several difficult routes.
  • End #1164

Ankogel group


Highest peak in Ankogel group.

There are several ridges in all directions forming a small massif.

There are several huts around the peak but no cable cars or ski lifts.

South face
South Ridge "Detmoldegrat".
Südgrat. D-; V; 300m.
North face
Gussenbauerrinne. D; 57°, II-III; 280m, 1,5-3h. 1871-01-01First ascentKarl Gussenbauer & J. Weichslederer & Krapfl, 1871.
Ice/mixed. Usually good conditions only during spring.
  • Jetzsch-Rabl #2
Nördlichste Rinne (North couloir). 55°; 260m.
West face
Lohn der Angst. D; AI1-2/60°, V+; 250m. 1995-07-10First ascentRobert & Peter Winkler, 1995-07-10.

Goldberg group

Hoher Sonnblick3105