Latest update: 2009-12-07 18:12:32
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[Venediger group | Glockner group | Ankogel group]

Hohe Tauern

Grossglockner. East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe.

East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe. Source: Ari Paulin, (c) Ari Paulin , licensed under (c) Ari Paulin. Shot on 2009-06-21 in Grossglockner, Austria (Google maps).

Highest of the Austrian ranges is Hohe Tauern. It consists of several loosely knit groups, all of them heavily glaciated (more or less from west to east):

Riesenferner group
Riesenferner group.
Villgraten group
Riesenferner group.
Venediger group
<<more>>.
Granatspitz group
Glockner group
<<more>>.
Schoeber group
Schoeber group.
Goldberg group
Kreuzeck group
Kreuzeck group.
Ankogel group
<<more>>.

Most important summits of the area are Grossglockner (3798m) and Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m) in Glockner group, Grossvenediger (3666m) in Venediger group, Hochalmspitze (3360m) in Ankogel group, Hochschober (3240m) in Schober group, Hochgall/Collalto (3436m) in Rieserferner group and Hoher Sonnblick (3105m) in Goldberg group.

By far the best known of these groups is the Glockner group in the central part, in which the highest mountain of Austria, Grossglockner (3798m) is located. The area has host of famous climbs and together with Bernina and Ortler groups it is the mecca for alpine climbing in the eastern Alps. In direct comparison to Glockner group, rest of the Hohe Tauern is not nearly as interesting for mountaineers and climbers. However, there are still few peaks with well known and worthwhile routes, especially in Ankogel and Venediger groups.

Also Hochgall in Riesenferner group is a good choice for climbers. Even the Austrian normal route (42°, III) is non-trivial. SW Ridge (III+) and north face (55° 300m) are other good options.

For rock climbs and normal routes, best conditions are usually found between July and October. However, because of the retreat of glaciers, some classic ice routes (most notably Pallavicinirinne and NW face of Grosses Wiesbachhorn) can be more difficult and especially dangerous during the summer. Thus best time for them is spring, just after the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse is opened (late May - early June). Also late autumn can have good conditions. During that time approach may be ardurous due to thick snow cover.

  • Beikircher Werner: Riesenfernergruppe. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1983. Isbn: 3-7633-1227-7.
  • End & Peterka: Gebietsführer Glockner-Granatspitz-, Venedigergruppe. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl Alex & Jentzsch Andreas: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen. Alpinverlag, 2003. Isbn: 3-9500920-0-5.
  • Mair Walter: Schobergruppe, 2nd edition. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1979. Isbn: 3-7633-1222-6.
  • Schmitt Edwin & Pusch Wolfgang: Hochtoure Ostalpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004. Isbn: 3763330100.
  • Seibert Dieter: Eastern Alps - the Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks. Diadem Books, 1992. Isbn: 0-906371-54-6.
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: #123 (Matrei-Defereggen-Virgental), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: #181 (Kals-Heiligenblut-Matrei), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.

Venediger group

Venedigergroup lies in the western part of Hohe Tauern, immediately to the west of Granatspitzgroup. The area is excessively glaciated, most so in the Hohe Tauern. The main peak in the area is its namesake, Grossvenediger (3666m). Especially its North Ridge (mixed, AD, III+, 35° is a classic climb). Other popular climbs in the area include Dreiherrenspitze (3499m), Rütspize (3495m, II, 40°) Grosser Geiger (3360m) and traverse of Simonyspitzen (3488m and 3440m, III). The area is also popular among ski mountaineers. Main bases are Mittersil on the NE and Matrei in SE parts of the group.

  • End Willi & Peterka Hubert: Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe, 5th edition. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2006. Isbn: 3-7633-1242-0.
  • AV-karte: (Venedigergruppe), 1:25 000.
  • Venediger group

Glockner group

General Info

Glockner group is by far the best known part of Hohe Tauern. The area is further divided into several group. Furthest to the north lie Stubach/Kapruner Kamm to the west of Kapruner valley, in the middle between Kapruner valley in the west and Fuscher valley in the east lie Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm and to the east of Fusher valley lie Fuscher/Rauris kamm. Further to the south, right north of Pasterze glacier lie Taurnhauptkamm and to the south of Pasterze lies Glocknerkamm. Pasterze area and Fuscher/Kapruner kamm are the most interesting areas for climbers.

Logistics

Nearest major cities are Salburg in NE (130km) and Lienz in the south. Main access is via Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse leading from close to Zell am See to Heiligenblut village located to the southern side of the chain and end in Mölltal, close to Lienz. Kaprunertal, located on the NW side of the group is the other popular means of access. Ski area Zell am See - Kaprun is located at the northernmost part of Glockner group. Therefore ski connections to those areas provide good access to northernmost part of the area. Kitsteinhorn has summer skiing as well.

  • Nearest international airports are Salzburg and Innsbruck. However, those are small and don't have great number of connections. Therefore better option might be to fly to Munich and continue from there with other means of transport.
  • Munich airport has train connection to Munich city (40 mins). From there there are numerous connections to all bigger cities located close to Glockner Group. Closest train station in the north is Bruck, close to Zell am See. In the South Lienz or Mallnitz.
  • During high season, there's a buss service on Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse to Franz-Josefs-Höhe.
  • Fuschertal & Mölltal From north (Munich, Salzburg) to all areas except Kaprunertal or Kals: München-Salzburg-Bischofshofen-Lend-Bruck-Fusch-Großglockner-Mölltal From East (Wien) to Salzburg. From South: Klagenfurt-Mölltal-Grossglockner-Fuschertal Kaprunertal From north to Kaprunertal: München-Salzburg-Bischofshofen-Lend-Bruck-Kaprun From East (Innsbruck): Innsbruck-Kaprun-Kaprunertal From South: Klagenfurt-Lienz-Huben-Matrei i.O.-Felbertauernstraße-Kaprun-Kaprunertal Kalsertal Carinthia: Klagenfurt-Lienz-Huben-Kals (Lienz - Kals: ca. 35 km) Innsbruck: Innsbruck-Wörgl-St.Johann i.T.-Kitzbühel-Paß Thurn- Mittersill-Felbertauernstraße-Matrei i.O.-Huben-Kals am Großglockner From north to Kals: München-Kufstein-St.Johann/Tirol-Kitzbühel-Paß Thurn-Felbertauernstraße-Matrei in Osttirol-Huben-road to Kals am Großglockner (München - Kals: ca. 220 km) Wien: Wien-Salzburg-Zell am See-Felbertauernstraße

Accommodation

In the mountains there are several huts. Some of them are big, warden and offer full three course meals and beer, on the other hand there are also couple of tiny bivouac shelters with no luxuries. Most, if not all, of the huts have blankets though, so it's possible to get by without bringing your sleeping bag. Huts owned by alpine clubs grant significant discount if you are a member of UIAA sanctioned climbing organization. Camping during daytime is officially not allowed.

Most popular huts can be very crowded during high season, so it's recommended mandatory to book in advance. Some of the huts not open during the winter may still have open winter room. Glocknerbiwak has accommodation for maximum of eight people. Since all other accommodation options are too far away for most people, it can be hopelessly overcrowded during north face season, especially during the weekends.

View Larger Map.

Kaprunertal
  • öGV-Biwakschachtel (Gruberschartenbiwak)
    • Gps: lat: 47.13805, long: 12.733183333333, alt: 3100m.
  • Mooserboden (Erlebniswelt Strom und Eis)
    • Gps: lat: 47.1625, long: 12.7175, alt: 2040m.
  • Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus
    • Gps: lat: 47.16275, long: 12.738916666667, alt: 2802m.
    • email: , phone (pref)+4365478662, (cell)+436645168862.
    • Large hut in Kaprunertal. Important base for Grosses Wiessbachhorn and Klockerin.
    • Connections:
      • from Mooserboden, 2,5h
      • to Rudolsfshütte
      • to öGV-Biwakschachtel
      • to Oberwalderhütte via Gruberscharte (öGV-Biwakschachtel), 5-7h
  • Gleiwitzerhütte
    • 2176m.
  • Krefelderhütte
    • 2295m.
Stubachtal
  • Rudolfshütte
    • Gps: lat: 47.13435, long: 12.625483333333, alt: 2311m.
    • email: , phone+43656382210, fax: +436563822159 .
    • address (postal): Stubach 82, A-5723 Uttendorf, Austria .
    • Large alpine centrum. Base for Sonnblick, Granatspitze and Hohe Riffl.
    • Connections:
      • from Einzigerboden, 3h
      • to Oberwalderhütte via Obere Ödenwinkelscharte, 5,5h
Fuschertal
  • Schwarzenberghütte
    • Gps: lat: 47.135533333333, long: 12.7643, alt: 2267m.
Pasterze
  • Erzherzog-Johann Hütte (Adlersruhe)
    • Gps: lat: 47.07028, long: 12.70194, alt: 3454m.
    • email: , phone (pref)+4348768500, (cell)+436649237030, fax: +4348768272 .
    • Connections:
      • Most common access from Franz-Josefs-Höhe in the north along Grossglockner normal route (crevassed glacier, 4,5h).
      • Also possible from Stüdlhütte in the south or from Salmhütte.
  • Franz-Josef-Haus
    • Gps: lat: 47.07337, long: 12.75458, alt: 2418m.
    • phone+4348242512.
    • Accessible by car from Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse.
  • Glocknerbiwak
    • 3260m.
    • Important base for north side climbs of Grossglockner and Glocknerwand. All approaches involve crevassed glacier. Approach from Franz-Josefs-Höhe (3-3,5h) or from Hoffmanshütte in the north. The fastest and easiest approach from Oberwalderhütte is via Hoffmanshütte as well, route overPasterze (Oberstes Pasterzenboden) is badly crevassed, therefore dangerous and slow.
  • Oberwalderhütte
    • Gps: lat: 47.105266666667, long: 12.7155333333333, alt: 2973m.
    • email: , phone+4348242546, fax: +4348242546 .
    • Large hut, very good base for numerous ice climbs. Open already during the "north face season".
    • Connections:
      • from Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2,5h)
      • to Rudolfshütte via Obere Ödenwinkelscharte, 5,5h
      • to Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus via Gruberscharte (öGV-Biwakschachtel), 5-7h
      • Easiest and fastest route to Glocknerbiwak via Hoffmannshütte. Possible also from Mooserboden (5h).
  • Hofmannshütte
    • Gps: lat: 47.0859, long: 12.738.
  • Glocknerhaus
    • Gps: lat: 47.06965, long: 12.768416666667.
Mölltal
  • Glorerhütte
    • Gps: lat: 47.031066666667, long: 12.715633333333, alt: 2642m.
  • Salmhütte
    • Located to the SE. Access from Franz-Josefs-Höhe in north, or via Glorerhütte, Lucknerhütte or Stüdlhütte in the south.. Gps: lat: 47.047, long: 12.72065, alt: 2632m.
Kalser tal
  • Kalser Tauernhaus
    • Located to the SW.. Gps: lat: 47.070616666667, long: 12.6239, alt: 1754m.
  • Lucknerhaus
    • 1984m.
    • Road from Kals.
  • Lucknerhütte
    • 2241m.
    • email: , phone+4348768221, fax: +4348768221 .
    • address (postal): Glor 1, A-9981 Kals am Grossglockner, Austria .
  • Stüdlhütte
    • Gps: lat: 47.05475, long: 12.681033333333, alt: 2802m.
    • phone+4348768209, fax: +4348768209 .
    • address: Glor 1, A-9981 Kals am Grossglockner, Austria ; .address (postal): Ködniz 55, A-9981 Kals am Grossglockner, Austria .
    • Large hut on the south side of Grossglockner.
    • Connections:
      • From Kals either via Teischnitztal (3,5-4h) or following the road to Lucknerhaus and walking from there via Ködnitztal and Lucknerhütte (2241m), 2,5-3h.
      • Possible to get to Oberwalderhütte via Romariswandsattel (6,5h)

Climbing info

General

Glockner area has all types of climbing:

  • Mountaineering. Both classic, non-technical, mountaineering and alpine mountain climbing on glaciers, ice, rock and mixed ground.
  • Ice climbing. Especially Rudolfshütte area has ice fall climbing during the winter.
  • Ski mountaineering. Glockner group is very popular among ski mountaineering during the winter and spring.
  • Via ferrata
  • Gym climbing. Probably no one goes to mountains for gym climbing, but if bad weather spell occurs when in the mountains, there are indoor climbing walls in Rudolfshütte and Stüdlhütte.

The undisputed king of the area is its highest Peak, Grossglockner (3798m). Normal route is a classic glacier ascent at PD (35°, II) and can be reached from north and south sides of the mountains. Other classic routes include rocky Stüdlgrat (AD) on the south side and several ice routes on the north side, most famous of them being ultra classic Pallavicinirinne (600m, 55°, III, D-) and less famous, but more difficult and safer Mayerl Rampe (500m, 60-70°, III, D/D+). Just north of Glockner group lies Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m), beautiful pyramid that dominate the landscape. Northwest Face on Grosses Wiesbachhorn (400m, 55° II-III, D) was the first climb were modern tube ice screws were used.

Besides the aforementioned classics, the area has wealth of options for those in search of alpine ice. Erwin Couloir on Eiskögele (3426m, 450m, D+/TD-, 60-70°), Schneewinkelkopf (3476m) Nordwand (350m, 60°, mostly 45° with direct variant up to 80°) and Nordwand of Hohe Riffl (3338m, 250m, AD+/D-, 57°) are among the harder routes while Nordostwand (200m, 45°) and Westwand (450m, 47°, I-II) of Johannisberg (3453m), Nordostflanle (250m, 45°) and Nordwand (200m, 47°) on Bärenkopf (3396m), Breitkopf Nordflanke (3154m), Furscherkarkopf Nordwand (3331m, 450m, AD-, 50° II) and Eiswandbichl Nordostwand (3200m, 100m, 47°) are more moderate. Most of the routes can be reached easily from Oberwalderhütte (2973m).

Several grading systems are used depending on the type of climbing:

Alpine climbs
Generally no overall alpine grade is given. Eg, Austrian alpine club guidebooks list no overall grade. However, some routes have been given international French adjectival system grade.
Rock
For rock routes traditionally UIAA grade has been used. Standard aid climbing grade is used when appropriate.
Ice & mixed
For moderate and middle grade climbs, most common way is to express the steepness either as maximum or average angle of the slope. For the difficult routes, moder WI grading may sometimes be used. WI-grade is also used for ice fall climbs, however, usually the overall part is omitted. For mixed stuff, some modern routes sometimes use M grades for mixed sections, which certainly tells a lot more about the actual demands met by a climber rather than more commonly used normal rock grade.
Weather & Seasons

For rock climbs and normal routes, best conditions are usually found between July and October. However, because of the retreat of glaciers, some classic ice routes (most notably Pallavicinirinne and NW face of Grosses Wiesbachhorn) can be more difficult and especially dangerous during the summer. Thus best time for them is spring, just after the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse is opens (late May - early June). Also late autumn can have good conditions. During that time approach may be ardurous due to thick snow cover. There are several ice fall climbs around Rudolfshütte alpine centrum during the winter.

Rescue
Alpine distress signal:
6 x within a minute with regular intervals, give some sort of visual or acoustic signal. Then pause for a minute and repeat the signal until you get an answer. To answer: 3 x within a minute - one minute pause.
Telephone:
References
  • End Willi: Alpenvereinsführer Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe, 10th edition. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003. Isbn: 3763312668.
  • End Willi & Peterka Hubert: Alpenvereinsführer Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe, 9th edition. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1995. Isbn: 3763312668.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl Alex & Jentzsch Andreas: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen. Alpinverlag, 2003. Isbn: 3-9500920-0-5.
  • Pusch Wolfgang & Baumgartner Leo: Grossglockner. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2000.
  • Roberts Eric: Glockner Region. 1976.
  • Schmitt Edwin & Pusch Wolfgang: Hochtouren Ostalpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004. Isbn: 3763330100.
  • Seibert Dieter: Eastern Alps - the Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks. Diadem Books, 1992. Isbn: 0-906371-54-6.
  • Schematic map of Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse
  • map
  • map
  • Alpenvereinskarte: #40 (Grossglocknergruppe), 1:25 000. DAV, 2002.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: #30 (Zell am See-Kaprun), 1:30 000. Kompass. Isbn: 3-85491-237-4.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: #39 ("Glocknergruppe" NP Hohe Tauern), 1:50 000. Kompass. Isbn: 3-85491-044-4.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: #46 ("Matrei in Osttirol, Kals am Grossglockner" NP Hohe Tauern), 1:50 000. Kompass.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: #48 (Kals am Grossglockner), 1:50 000. Kompass.
  • Österreichische Karte: #153 (Grossglockner), 1:25 000.

Northern part (Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm)

Northern part of the Glocknergroup consists of Stubach/Kapruner Kamm to the west of Kapruner valley, Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm and, Fuscher/Rauris Kamm. In the south it borders on Taurnhauptkamm. Highest peaks are located in the southern part of the chain. Most important peaks of the group are Grosses Wiessbachhorn (3564m) and Klockerin (3419m).

Klockerin, Hintere Bratschenkopf (3412m), Vordere Bratschenkopf (3401m), Grosses Wiessbachnnorn, Hohe Tenn (3368m), Imbachhorn

Kaprunertal

Kaprunertal in the wester is used to access most climbs in Mittlerere Taurnhaupkamm & Kapruner/Stubach Kamm from the east, most notable Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m) and Klockerin (3419m). Road ends at reservoir Mooserboden (restaurant at 2040m.). Some climbs, most notably Klockerin NW side, are started directly from there.

Heinrich-Schwaiger Haus (2802) can be reached in 2,5h from Mooserboden. Heinrich-Schwaiger Haus is the starting point for most common ascents on Grosses Wiesbachhorn (Kandlgrat, NW Face) and Klockerin (nordostanstieg). Also Hinterer and Vorderer Bratschenkopf are climbed from the hut. There's also high level glacier route from Oberwalderhütte via Gruberscharte (2973m, 6-7h).

  • Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
  • Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm
  • Stubach/Kapruner Kamm
  • Granatspitze
  • Kaprun. Official site of Kaprun.
  • Zell am See. Official site of Zell am See - Kaprun.

Stubachtal

Further in the south by Weissee lies Alpiner center Rudolfshütte (2311m). While possible from Mooserboden, most convenient access starts from Einzigerboden (3h). It can provide access to North Faces of Glocknerkamm (eg. Eiskögele) and Mittlerer Taurnhauptkamm (eg. Hohe Riffl, Ödenwinkelschartenkopf). Hohe Kasten is another peak visited for climbing. Ultra long Kastengrat is the longest route of Grossglockner (both long and difficult, includes the traverse of Glocknerwand, at least one bivouac necessary for just about everyone). It is also possible to reach several climbs (mostly moderate at F-PD) in Granatspitz group from the hut.

  • Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
  • Glocknerkamm
  • Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm
  • Stubach/Kapruner Kamm
  • Granatspitze

Fuchsertal

Fuschertal to the NE of the group is not very important starting point for climbing. It is possible to climb several peaks located in Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm from this valley, most notably Grosses Wiesbachhorn through its gigantic SE face (2450m). Also several lower peaks in the northern part of Kapruner/Stubach Kamm are possible. Main climb from the valley is Grosses Wiessbachhorn, although many consider Kaindlgrat from Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus to be of nicer quality. Other worthwhile climbing goals are Klockerin and Bratchhenköpfe.

Access to Fuschertal is from Ferleiten along Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse (1152m). Most important high level bases are Schwarzenberghütte and Gruberschartenbiwak,

  • Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
  • Fuscher/Rauris Kamm

Pasterze (Glocknerkamm, Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm)

Most high peaks in Glockner group are concentrated around Pasterze glacier in the southern part of the group. Glocknerkamm is located to the south of the glacier and Taurnhauptkamm to the north. Franzh-Josefs-Höhe (garage, 2362m) is located right above Pasterze and is easily accessed by a car from Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse. It is the most common starting point for climbs in the area.

Some routes are possible directly from the garage (normal route of Fuscherkarkopf, also normal route route of Grossglockner is possible directly from here). However, most climbs are more feasible if hut higher up is used. Those who want to enjoy more leisure pace can sleep at Erzherzog Johann hütte (Adlersuhe, 3454m), located conveniently close to Kleinglockner along the normal route of Grossglockner. It is also possible to reach the hut from Stüdlhütte in the south and Salmhütte in the east).

For those aiming to test themselves on the most prominent feature of the area, the north face of Grossglockner, Grossglockner Biwakschachtel (3260m) is the preferred starting point (access involves glacier travel over crevassed glacier and some 1000 meters altitude gain). Very strong parties may choose to start directly from Franz-Josefs-Höhe. Besides classic ice and mixed routes on the north face of Grossglockner, Biwakschachtel is also used for the north side climbs on Glocknerwand.

Oberwalderhütte, located on a rock island on the Pasterze provides access to great number of ice routes (access from Franz-Josefs-Höhe in 2-3h). This might very well be the best place for those in search of middle grade ice/mixed routes in the Eastern Alps. There are plenty of choices around graded AD and D available as day trips from the hut.

  • Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
  • Glocknerkamm
  • Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm

Southern part

Southern part of Glockner group consist of south slopes of Glocknerkamm. The main climb is southern normal route of Grossglockner via Erzherzog Johann-hütte (Adlersruhe). While southern side is nowhere near as famous as the northern side among those longing for difficult climbs, moderate classic Stüdlgrat and South Face offer few more demanding choices.

  • Alpenvereinskarte: 39 (Granatspitzgruppe), 1:25 000. Deutscher Alpenverein.
  • Alpenvereinskarte: 40 (Grossglocknergruppe), 1:25 000. Deutscher Alpenverein.
  • Freytag & Berndt WK: 122 (Großglockner - Kaprun - Zell am See), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
  • Österreichische Karte: 152 (Matrei in Osttirol), 1:25 000. BEV.
  • Österreichische Karte: 153 (Grossglockner), 1:25 000. BEV.

Mölltal

Most convenient access to the southern part is from village Heiligenblut along the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse.

Kalser Tal

Road from Huben leads to Kals (1324m), the other important village on the souther part of Glockner group.

The most important hut base on the south side is Stüdlhütte. Access is from Kals, either via Teischnitztal (3,5-4h) or following the road to Lucknerhaus and walking from there via Ködnitztal and Lucknerhütte (2241m), 2,5-3h. Climb to Erzherzog-Johann-hütte takes about 2,5h. This is the easiest option to cross to the northern side of the group, the other one being via Romariswandsattel to Oberwalderhütte. Furthermore, good climbers can climb to Untere Glocknerscharte over steep snow (up to 50), then descent to Glocknerbiwak via Facilidesrinne (50).

Ankogel group

Ankogel group in the easternmost part of Hohe Tauern, located to the east of Glockner and Goldberg groups and the the north of Kreuzeck, has several good climbs. Ankogel group can be accessed from Gasteinertal in the NW (Badgastein), Mülltall in SW (Spittal, Mallnitz (1200m)) or Mastatal in SE (Gmünd, Malta (843m)). Nearest big cities are Villach and Klagenfurt to the SE of Ankogel group.

The main peak of the area is Hochalmspitze (3360m). It has several worthwhile routes, for example rocky Detmoldergrat and Gussenbauerrine (ice/mixed, D). Other main peaks of the area include Ankogel (3256m), Grosser Hafner (3076m) and Reisseck (2905m).

Maltatal is one of the best places to go for ice fall climbing in Austria.

  • Buchenauer Liselotte & Holl Peter: Ankogel- und Goldberggruppe. Alpenvereinsführer. Ein führer für Taler, Hütten und Berge. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1998. Isbn: 3763312471.
  • Alpenvereinskarte: #44 (Hochalmspitze-Ankogel), 1:25 000. Deutscher Alpenverein, 1995.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: (Maltatal, Liesertal), 1:50 000.
  • Ankogel group
[Venediger group | Glockner group | Ankogel group]
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