East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe. Credit: Ari Paulin
, Shot on 2009-06-21 Photo taken
in , Austria
.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted
Highest of the Austrian ranges is Hohe Tauern. It consists of several loosely knit groups, all of them heavily glaciated. By far the best known of these groups is the Glockner group in the central part, in which the highest mountain of Austria, Grossglockner (3798m) is located. The area has host of famous climbs and together with Bernina and Ortler groups it is the mecca for alpine climbing in the eastern Alps.
The groups of Hohe Tauern (more or less from west to east):
- Venediger group Venedigergroup lies in the western part of Hohe Tauern, immediately to the west of Granatspitzgroup. The area is excessively glaciated, most so in the Hohe Tauern. The main peak in the area is its namesake, Grossvenediger (3666m). Especially its North Ridge (mixed, AD, III+, 35° is a classic climb). Other popular climbs in the area include Dreiherrenspitze (3499m), Rütspize (3495m, II, 40°) Grosser Geiger (3360m) and traverse of Simonyspitzen (3488m and 3440m, III). The area is also popular among ski mountaineers. Main bases are Mittersil on the NE and Matrei in SE parts of the group.
- Glockner group Glockner group is by far the best known part of Hohe Tauern. The area is further divided into several group. Furthest to the north lie Stubach/Kapruner Kamm to the west of Kapruner valley, in the middle between Kapruner valley in the west and Fuscher valley in the east lie Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm and to the east of Fusher valley lie Fuscher/Rauris kamm. Further to the south, right north of Pasterze glacier lie Taurnhauptkamm and to the south of Pasterze lies Glocknerkamm. Pasterze area and Fuscher/Kapruner kamm are the most interesting areas for climbers.
- Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
Most prominent ridge on the northern part of Glockner Group. Runs to the north from Tauernhauptkamm towards Bruck an der Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse.Joins Taurnhauptkamm in the South at Grosses Bärenkopf.
Main branch: Grosses Bärenkopf (3406m) - Gruberscharte (3092m) - Klockerin SW (3422,>) and NO (3335m) - Klockerinsattel (3304) - Hintere Bratchenkopf (3412m) - Weilingerscharte (3265m) - Grosses Wiessbachhorn (3570m) - Sandbodenscharte (3211m) - Kleine Wiessbachhorn (3284m) - Bergspitze (3368m) - Tennsattel - Scheespitze (3318m) - Kleine Tenn (3155m) - Hirzbachtörn (3046m) - Baurnbruckkopf - Kemsenkopf (3090m) - Spitzbrettwand (2715m) - Krapfbrachkopf (2715m) - Messerfeldkopf (2442m) - Rötspitze (2515m) - Falkenbachkopf - Imbacchorn (2401m) - Dürchelkopf (2136m) - Laubkopf (2038m) - Schreckkop (1836m).
Branch to the east from Hintere Btaschenkopf including Vordere Bratschenkopf (3400m).
Another significant branch to the East from Kleines Wierssbachhorn including Sandbodenkopf and big broad Hoher Tenn (Schneespitze). Several smaller side branches including Swingkopf (3113m), Lorenzkopf (2701m) and Müllwand (2757m).
- Kapruner/Stubacher Kamm
Oberer Ödenwinkelscharte - Hohe Riffls (3338m) - Torkopf (3101m) - Kapruner Törl (2639m) - Kleiner Eiser (2897m) - Hocheiser (3206m) - Grosser Grieskogel (3065m) - Geralkopf (2932m) - Hohes Beil (3100m) - Kitzsteinhorn (3202m) - Maurerkogel (2995m) - Grosser Schmiedinger (2960m) - Kleine Schmiedinger - Rötenwand - >Rettinger - Bombachkopf - Hohe Arche.
Big side branch from Grosser Schmiedinger with Jaggeskopf (2510), Königsstuhl (2420m), Hintere Planitzer (2562m) and Vordere Planitzer (2538m).
Also sidebranch from Hohe Riffl towards NW including Teufelskopf (3151m).
- Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm
Ödenwinkelschartenkopf, Johannisberg, Hohe Riffl, Schattseitköpfl, Vorderer Bärenkopf, Grosser Bärenkopf, Breitkopf, Furscherkarkopf
Most peaks in these areas are not very important by themselves, the area is mainly visited for ice faces. There's a great concentration of ice faces, almost all are accessible from Oberwalderhütte (2973m) in reasonable short approach.
Some routes are climbed directly from Franz-Josefs höhe (2362m), especially SW Ridge (normal route, PD) of Fuscherkarkopf (3331m) is relatively popular as it offers splendid panorama towards the north face of Grossglockner.
Hohe Riffl and Ödenwinkelschartenkopf are also possible from Rudolshütte.
Kleinglockner, Obere Glocknerscharte, Grossglockner, Glocknerhorn, Teufelshorn, Untere Glocknerscharte, Glocknerwand, Teufelskamp, Romariswandsattel (3428m), Romariswandkopf (36508m), Schneewinkelscharte (3412m), Schneewinkelkopf (3476m), Eiskögele. Ridge then continues via Untere Ödenwinkelscharte, Ödenwinkelschartenkopf and Johannisberg to Obere Ödenwinkelscharte.
Grossglockner normal route is from the eastern side over Glocknerleitl and Kleinglockner. Erzherzog Johann hütte ("Adlersruhe", 3454m) makes the route far less strenuous than direct climb from Franz-Joseffs höhe (2362m). The same route can be joined also from the south (Stüdlhütte, 2802m) or east (Salmhütte (2632m).
North side routes of Kleinglockner, Grossglockner and Glocknerwand all start at Glocknerbiwak. North faces of Schneewinkelkopf, Teufelskamp, Romariswandkopf and Eiskögele are all possible from Oberwalderhütte (2973m, approach over crevassed glacier). All have moderate to difficult ice and mixed climbs, especially Eiskögele NF is very difficult. Eiskögele is also possible from Rudolfshutte.
Climbs on the south side of Glocknerkamm are climbed from Stüdlhütte (2802m). it is accessed from Lucknerhaus parking place in 2,5h or from Kals in 4h. It is possible to gain Grossglockner normal route over the glacier. More beautiful choice is to climb Stüdlgrat directly to the summit (AD). It is possible to climb Glocknerwand or NW Ridge of Grossglockner from the hut (easiest access to untere Glocknerscharte, used for descent of Mayerlrampe and Berglerrinne on the north side if NW ridge has bad conditions. Other peaks of Glocknerkamm can be easily climbed from the Stüdlhütte.
- Granatzspitz group Located to the west of Rudolfshütte.
- Tauernhauptkamm Amertaler Höhe (2841m) - Amertaler Schartenkopf (2763m) - Grosse KLandeckkopf (2830m) - Rabenstein (2897m) - Sonnblick (3088m) - Granatspitze (3086m) - Keeskogel (2827m) - Rotkogel (2653m) - Kalser Tauernkogel (2683m).
- Westliche Tauernhauptkamm Kalser Tauernkogel (2683m) - Meldelzkopf (2761m) - Kastenturm (2920m) - Hoher Kasten W (3180m) - Hoher Kaster O (3192m) - Kastengratwand (3220m) - Ödenwinkelwand (3330m) - Eiskögele (3436m).
- Stubacher/Mitterkamm Located on a side chain branching north from Sonnblick. Hohe Fürleg (2947m), Kitzarkugel (2801m), Winterkogel (2669m), Magaiskopf (2628m).
- Ödkamm Located to the north from Grosse Landeckkopf, to the west of Stubacher/Mitterkamm.
- Ankogel group Ankogel group in the easternmost part of Hohe Tauern, located to the east of Glockner and Goldberg groups and the the north of Kreuzeck, has several good climbs. Ankogel group can be accessed from Gasteinertal in the NW (Badgastein), Mülltall in SW (Spittal, Mallnitz (1200m)) or Mastatal in SE (Gmünd, Malta (843m)). Nearest big cities are Villach and Klagenfurt to the SE of Ankogel group. The main peak of the area is Hochalmspitze (3360m). It has several worthwhile routes, for example rocky Detmoldergrat and Gussenbauerrine (ice/mixed, D). Other main peaks of the area include Ankogel (3256m), Grosser Hafner (3076m) and Reisseck (2905m).
- Goldberg group
Most important summits of the area are Grossglockner (3798m) and Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m) in Glockner group, Grossvenediger (3666m) in Venediger group, Hochalmspitze (3360m) in Ankogel group, Hochschober (3240m) in Schober group, Hochgall/Collalto (3436m) in Rieserferner group and Hoher Sonnblick (3105m) in Goldberg group.
By far the best known of these groups is the Glockner group in the central part, in which the highest mountain of Austria, Grossglockner (3798m) is located. The area has host of famous climbs and together with Bernina and Ortler groups it is the mecca for alpine climbing in the eastern Alps. In direct comparison to Glockner group, rest of the Hohe Tauern is not nearly as interesting for mountaineers and climbers. However, there are still few peaks with well known and worthwhile routes, especially in Ankogel and Venediger groups.
Also Hochgall in Riesenferner group is a good choice for climbers. Even the Austrian normal route (42°, III) is non-trivial. SW Ridge (III+) and north face (55° 300m) are other good options.
For rock climbs and normal routes, best conditions are usually found between July and October. However, because of the retreat of glaciers, some classic ice routes (most notably Pallavicinirinne and NW face of Grosses Wiesbachhorn) can be more difficult and especially dangerous during the summer. Thus best time for them is spring, just after the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse is opened (late May - early June). Also late autumn can have good conditions. During that time approach may be ardurous due to thick snow cover.
- Riesenfernergruppe. Isbn: 3-7633-1227-7. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1983.:
- Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe - Für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Kletterer. Alpenvereinsführer, 10. aktulisierte und vollständig neu bearbeitete A edition. Isbn: 3-7633-1266-8. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003.:
- Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe - Für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Kletterer. Alpenvereinsführer, 9. neu bearbeitete Auflage edition. Isbn: 3-7633-1266-8. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1995.:
- Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen - Auswahlführer mit 84 Tourenvorschlägen für Österreich, Südtirol und die Schweiz. Isbn: 9783950092004. Alpinverlag Jentsch-Rabl, 2004.:
- Schobergruppe, 2nd edition. Isbn: 3-7633-1222-6. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1979.:
- Hochtouren Ostalpen - 90 Fels- und Eistouren zwischen Bernina und Tauern. Isbn: 9783763330102. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.:
- Eastern Alps - The Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks. Isbn: 9780906371541. Diadem Books, 1992.:
- Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: #123 Matrei-Defereggen-VirgentalFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000
- Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: #181 Kals-Heiligenblut-MatreiFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000
Venedigergroup lies in the western part of Hohe Tauern, immediately to the west of Granatspitzgroup. The area is excessively glaciated, most so in the Hohe Tauern. The main peak in the area is its namesake, Grossvenediger (3666m). Especially its North Ridge (mixed, AD, III+, 35° is a classic climb). Other popular climbs in the area include Dreiherrenspitze (3499m), Rütspize (3495m, II, 40°) Grosser Geiger (3360m) and traverse of Simonyspitzen (3488m and 3440m, III). The area is also popular among ski mountaineers. Main bases are Mittersil on the NE and Matrei in SE parts of the group.
- Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe, 5th edition. Isbn: 3-7633-1242-0. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2006.:
- AV-karte: Venedigergruppe1:25 000
Glockner group is by far the best known part of Hohe Tauern. The area is further divided into several group. Furthest to the north lie Stubach/Kapruner Kamm to the west of Kapruner valley, in the middle between Kapruner valley in the west and Fuscher valley in the east lie Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm and to the east of Fusher valley lie Fuscher/Rauris kamm. Further to the south, right north of Pasterze glacier lie Taurnhauptkamm and to the south of Pasterze lies Glocknerkamm. Pasterze area and Fuscher/Kapruner kamm are the most interesting areas for climbers.
Nearest major cities are Salburg in NE (130km) and Lienz in the south. Main access is via Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse leading from close to Zell am See to Heiligenblut village located to the southern side of the chain and end in Mölltal, close to Lienz. Kaprunertal, located on the NW side of the group is the other popular means of access. Ski area Zell am See - Kaprun is located at the northernmost part of Glockner group. Therefore ski connections to those areas provide good access to northernmost part of the area. Kitsteinhorn has summer skiing as well.
- Nearest international airports are Salzburg and Innsbruck. However, those are small and don't have great number of connections. Therefore better option might be to fly to Munich and continue from there with other means of transport.
- Munich airport has train connection to Munich city (40 mins). From there there are numerous connections to all bigger cities located close to Glockner Group. Closest train station in the north is Bruck, close to Zell am See. In the South Lienz or Mallnitz.
- During high season, there's a buss service on Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse to Franz-Josefs-Höhe.
In the mountains there are several huts. Some of them are big, warden and offer full three course meals and beer, on the other hand there are also couple of tiny bivouac shelters with no luxuries. Most, if not all, of the huts have blankets though, so it's possible to get by without bringing your sleeping bag. Huts owned by alpine clubs grant significant discount if you are a member of UIAA sanctioned climbing organization. Camping during daytime is officially not allowed.
Most popular huts can be very crowded during high season, so it's recommended mandatory to book in advance. Some of the huts not open during the winter may still have open winter room. Glocknerbiwak has accommodation for maximum of eight people. Since all other accommodation options are too far away for most people, it can be hopelessly overcrowded during north face season, especially during the weekends.
View Larger Map.
- Most common access from Franz-Josefs-Höhe in the north along Grossglockner normal route (crevassed glacier, 4,5h).
- Also possible from Stüdlhütte in the south or from Salmhütte.
Franz-Josef-Haus2418Accessible by car from Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse.+4348242512 Glocknerbiwak3260Important base for north side climbs of Grossglockner and Glocknerwand. All approaches involve crevassed glacier. Approach from Franz-Josefs-Höhe (3-3,5h) or from Hoffmanshütte in the north. The fastest and easiest approach from Oberwalderhütte is via Hoffmanshütte as well, route overPasterze (Oberstes Pasterzenboden) is badly crevassed, therefore dangerous and slow.
- from Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2,5h)
- to Rudolfshütte via Obere Ödenwinkelscharte, 5,5h
- to Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus via Gruberscharte (öGV-Biwakschachtel), 5-7h
- Easiest and fastest route to Glocknerbiwak via Hoffmannshütte. Possible also from Mooserboden (5h).
- Kalser tal
Stüdlhütte2802Large hut on the south side of Grossglockner.+4348768209+4348768209Glor 1 Ködniz 55A-9981 A-9981Kals am Grossglockner Kals am GrossglocknerAustria Austria (postal)Glor 1 Ködniz 55A-9981 A-9981Kals am Grossglockner Kals am GrossglocknerAustria Austria (map) (map)
- From Kals either via Teischnitztal (3,5-4h) or following the road to Lucknerhaus and walking from there via Ködnitztal and Lucknerhütte (2241m), 2,5-3h.
- Possible to get to Oberwalderhütte via Romariswandsattel (6,5h)
Glockner area has all types of climbing:
- Mountaineering. Both classic, non-technical, mountaineering and alpine mountain climbing on glaciers, ice, rock and mixed ground.
- Ice climbing. Especially Rudolfshütte area has ice fall climbing during the winter.
- Ski mountaineering. Glockner group is very popular among ski mountaineering during the winter and spring.
- Via ferrata
- Gym climbing. Probably no one goes to mountains for gym climbing, but if bad weather spell occurs when in the mountains, there are indoor climbing walls in Rudolfshütte and Stüdlhütte.
The undisputed king of the area is its highest Peak, Grossglockner (3798m). Normal route is a classic glacier ascent at PD (35°, II) and can be reached from north and south sides of the mountains. Other classic routes include rocky Stüdlgrat (AD) on the south side and several ice routes on the north side, most famous of them being ultra classic Pallavicinirinne (600m, 55°, III, D-) and less famous, but more difficult and safer Mayerl Rampe (500m, 60-70°, III, D/D+). Just north of Glockner group lies Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m), beautiful pyramid that dominate the landscape. Northwest Face on Grosses Wiesbachhorn (400m, 55° II-III, D) was the first climb were modern tube ice screws were used.
Besides the aforementioned classics, the area has wealth of options for those in search of alpine ice. Erwin Couloir on Eiskögele (3426m, 450m, D+/TD-, 60-70°), Schneewinkelkopf (3476m) Nordwand (350m, 60°, mostly 45° with direct variant up to 80°) and Nordwand of Hohe Riffl (3338m, 250m, AD+/D-, 57°) are among the harder routes while Nordostwand (200m, 45°) and Westwand (450m, 47°, I-II) of Johannisberg (3453m), Nordostflanle (250m, 45°) and Nordwand (200m, 47°) on Bärenkopf (3396m), Breitkopf Nordflanke (3154m), Furscherkarkopf Nordwand (3331m, 450m, AD-, 50° II) and Eiswandbichl Nordostwand (3200m, 100m, 47°) are more moderate. Most of the routes can be reached easily from Oberwalderhütte (2973m).
Several grading systems are used depending on the type of climbing:
- Alpine climbs
- Generally no overall alpine grade is given. Eg, Austrian alpine club guidebooks list no overall grade. However, some routes have been given international French adjectival system grade.
- For rock routes traditionally UIAA grade has been used. Standard aid climbing grade is used when appropriate.
- Ice & mixed
- For moderate and middle grade climbs, most common way is to express the steepness either as maximum or average angle of the slope. For the difficult routes, moder WI grading may sometimes be used. WI-grade is also used for ice fall climbs, however, usually the overall part is omitted. For mixed stuff, some modern routes sometimes use M grades for mixed sections, which certainly tells a lot more about the actual demands met by a climber rather than more commonly used normal rock grade.
Weather & Seasons
For rock climbs and normal routes, best conditions are usually found between July and October. However, because of the retreat of glaciers, some classic ice routes (most notably Pallavicinirinne and NW face of Grosses Wiesbachhorn) can be more difficult and especially dangerous during the summer. Thus best time for them is spring, just after the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse is opens (late May - early June). Also late autumn can have good conditions. During that time approach may be ardurous due to thick snow cover. There are several ice fall climbs around Rudolfshütte alpine centrum during the winter.
- Alpine distress signal:
- 6 x within a minute with regular intervals, give some sort of visual or acoustic signal. Then pause for a minute and repeat the signal until you get an answer. To answer: 3 x within a minute - one minute pause.
- Alpenvereinsführer Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe, 9th edition. Isbn: 3763312668. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1995.:
- Alpenvereinsführer Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe, 10th edition. Isbn: 3763312668. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003.:
- Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen. Isbn: 3-9500920-0-5. Alpinverlag, 2003.:
- Grossglockner. Isbn: . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2000.:
- Glockner Region. Isbn: . 1976.:
- Hochtouren Ostalpen. Isbn: 3763330100. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.:
- Eastern Alps - the Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks. Isbn: 0-906371-54-6. Diadem Books, 1992.:
- Schematic map of Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse
- Österreichische Karte: #153 Grossglockner1:25 000
- Alpenvereinskarte: #40 GrossglocknergruppeDAV, 2002. 1:25 000
- Kompass Wanderkarte: #30 Zell am See-Kaprun. 3-85491-237-4. Kompass. 1:30 000
- Kompass Wanderkarte: #39 "Glocknergruppe" NP Hohe Tauern. 3-85491-044-4. Kompass. 1:50 000
- Kompass Wanderkarte: #46 "Matrei in Osttirol, Kals am Grossglockner" NP Hohe TauernKompass. 1:50 000
- Kompass Wanderkarte: #48 Kals am GrossglocknerKompass. 1:50 000
Northern part (Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm)
Northern part of the Glocknergroup consists of Stubach/Kapruner Kamm to the west of Kapruner valley, Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm and, Fuscher/Rauris Kamm. In the south it borders on Taurnhauptkamm. Highest peaks are located in the southern part of the chain. Most important peaks of the group are Grosses Wiessbachhorn (3564m) and Klockerin (3419m).
Klockerin, Hintere Bratschenkopf (3412m), Vordere Bratschenkopf (3401m), Grosses Wiessbachnnorn, Hohe Tenn (3368m), Imbachhorn
Kaprunertal in the wester is used to access most climbs in Mittlerere Taurnhaupkamm & Kapruner/Stubach Kamm from the east, most notable Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m) and Klockerin (3419m). Road ends at reservoir Mooserboden (restaurant at 2040m.). Some climbs, most notably Klockerin NW side, are started directly from there.
Heinrich-Schwaiger Haus (2802) can be reached in 2,5h from Mooserboden. Heinrich-Schwaiger Haus is the starting point for most common ascents on Grosses Wiesbachhorn (Kandlgrat, NW Face) and Klockerin (nordostanstieg). Also Hinterer and Vorderer Bratschenkopf are climbed from the hut. There's also high level glacier route from Oberwalderhütte via Gruberscharte (2973m, 6-7h).
- Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
- Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm
- Stubach/Kapruner Kamm
Further in the south by Weissee lies Alpiner center Rudolfshütte (2311m). While possible from Mooserboden, most convenient access starts from Einzigerboden (3h). It can provide access to North Faces of Glocknerkamm (eg. Eiskögele) and Mittlerer Taurnhauptkamm (eg. Hohe Riffl, Ödenwinkelschartenkopf). Hohe Kasten is another peak visited for climbing. Ultra long Kastengrat is the longest route of Grossglockner (both long and difficult, includes the traverse of Glocknerwand, at least one bivouac necessary for just about everyone). It is also possible to reach several climbs (mostly moderate at F-PD) in Granatspitz group from the hut.
- Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
- Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm
- Stubach/Kapruner Kamm
Fuschertal to the NE of the group is not very important starting point for climbing. It is possible to climb several peaks located in Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm from this valley, most notably Grosses Wiesbachhorn through its gigantic SE face (2450m). Also several lower peaks in the northern part of Kapruner/Stubach Kamm are possible. Main climb from the valley is Grosses Wiessbachhorn, although many consider Kaindlgrat from Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus to be of nicer quality. Other worthwhile climbing goals are Klockerin and Bratchhenköpfe.
Access to Fuschertal is from Ferleiten along Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse (1152m). Most important high level bases are Schwarzenberghütte and Gruberschartenbiwak,
- Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
- Fuscher/Rauris Kamm
Pasterze (Glocknerkamm, Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm)
Most high peaks in Glockner group are concentrated around Pasterze glacier in the southern part of the group. Glocknerkamm is located to the south of the glacier and Taurnhauptkamm to the north. Franzh-Josefs-Höhe (garage, 2362m) is located right above Pasterze and is easily accessed by a car from Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse. It is the most common starting point for climbs in the area.
Some routes are possible directly from the garage (normal route of Fuscherkarkopf, also normal route route of Grossglockner is possible directly from here). However, most climbs are more feasible if hut higher up is used. Those who want to enjoy more leisure pace can sleep at Erzherzog Johann hütte (Adlersuhe, 3454m), located conveniently close to Kleinglockner along the normal route of Grossglockner. It is also possible to reach the hut from Stüdlhütte in the south and Salmhütte in the east).
For those aiming to test themselves on the most prominent feature of the area, the north face of Grossglockner, Grossglockner Biwakschachtel (3260m) is the preferred starting point (access involves glacier travel over crevassed glacier and some 1000 meters altitude gain). Very strong parties may choose to start directly from Franz-Josefs-Höhe. Besides classic ice and mixed routes on the north face of Grossglockner, Biwakschachtel is also used for the north side climbs on Glocknerwand.
Oberwalderhütte, located on a rock island on the Pasterze provides access to great number of ice routes (access from Franz-Josefs-Höhe in 2-3h). This might very well be the best place for those in search of middle grade ice/mixed routes in the Eastern Alps. There are plenty of choices around graded AD and D available as day trips from the hut.
- Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm
- Mittlerer Tauernhauptkamm
Southern part of Glockner group consist of south slopes of Glocknerkamm. The main climb is southern normal route of Grossglockner via Erzherzog Johann-hütte (Adlersruhe). While southern side is nowhere near as famous as the northern side among those longing for difficult climbs, moderate classic Stüdlgrat and South Face offer few more demanding choices.
- Alpenvereinskarte: 39 GranatspitzgruppeDeutscher Alpenverein. 1:25 000
- Alpenvereinskarte: 40 GrossglocknergruppeDeutscher Alpenverein. 1:25 000
- Österreichische Karte: 152 Matrei in OsttirolBEV. 1:25 000
- Österreichische Karte: 153 GrossglocknerBEV. 1:25 000
- Freytag & Berndt WK: 122 Großglockner - Kaprun - Zell am SeeFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000
Most convenient access to the southern part is from village Heiligenblut along the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse.
Road from Huben leads to Kals (1324m), the other important village on the souther part of Glockner group.
The most important hut base on the south side is Stüdlhütte. Access is from Kals, either via Teischnitztal (3,5-4h) or following the road to Lucknerhaus and walking from there via Ködnitztal and Lucknerhütte (2241m), 2,5-3h. Climb to Erzherzog-Johann-hütte takes about 2,5h. This is the easiest option to cross to the northern side of the group, the other one being via Romariswandsattel to Oberwalderhütte. Furthermore, good climbers can climb to Untere Glocknerscharte over steep snow (up to 50), then descent to Glocknerbiwak via Facilidesrinne (50).
Ankogel group in the easternmost part of Hohe Tauern, located to the east of Glockner and Goldberg groups and the the north of Kreuzeck, has several good climbs. Ankogel group can be accessed from Gasteinertal in the NW (Badgastein), Mülltall in SW (Spittal, Mallnitz (1200m)) or Mastatal in SE (Gmünd, Malta (843m)). Nearest big cities are Villach and Klagenfurt to the SE of Ankogel group.
The main peak of the area is Hochalmspitze (3360m). It has several worthwhile routes, for example rocky Detmoldergrat and Gussenbauerrine (ice/mixed, D). Other main peaks of the area include Ankogel (3256m), Grosser Hafner (3076m) and Reisseck (2905m).
Maltatal is one of the best places to go for ice fall climbing in Austria.
- Ankogel- und Goldberggruppe. Alpenvereinsführer. Ein führer für Taler, Hütten und Berge. Isbn: 3763312471. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1998.:
- Alpenvereinskarte: #44 Hochalmspitze-AnkogelDeutscher Alpenverein, 1995. 1:25 000
- Kompass Wanderkarte: Maltatal, Liesertal1:50 000