Latest update: 2009-12-07 18:12:37
Grossglockner
East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe. Source: Ari Paulin, (c) Ari Paulin , licensed under (c) Ari Paulin. Shot on 2009-06-21 in Grossglockner, Austria (Google maps).
Grossglockner
| 1799 | Event | First expedition in 1799 led by brothers Klotz from Heiligenblut. Franz Xaver von Salm-Reifferscheid, Cardinal of Roman Kurie, was beared to the mountain. Bad weather generated the first bearer strike in the history of mountain climbing. 25.08.1799 Cardinal stayed at the Adlersruhe as two starkest of the members of the team (including Sigmund von Hohenwart) climbed on with four 'sherpas', ordinary members of the expedition. They reached Kleinglockner. |
| 1800-07-28 | First ascent | M. Klotz, S. Klotz, vicar P. Horasch et al. |
| 1851-08-17 | First solo ascent | Corbinian Steinberger |
| 1875-01-02 | First winter ascent | W.A. Baillie-Grohmann, P. Goeder, A. Kerer & K. Gorgasser |
- Glocknergruppe
- Grossglockner. At Berge der Welt.
- Grossglockner On-line
- Mountain page. At SummitPost.
- Mountain page. At Peakware.
- Snow report
East side
- Erzherzog-Johannshütte Adlersruhe , 3454m. Franz-Josefshaus 2418 - Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe'), ~1100m, ~4h
- Erzherzog-Johannshütte Adlersruhe , 3454m. Franz-Josefshaus 2418 - Salmhütte 634 via Stockersharte (2443m), 4-5h
- Erzherzog-Johannshütte Adlersruhe , 3454m. Salmhütte (634m) - Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe') 3454 via Hohenwartscharte, I, 3,5h
- Erzherzog-Johannshütte Adlersruhe , 3454m. From Stüdlhütte (2802m) to Erzherzog-Johannshüttee ('Adlersruhe'), 2,5h
Normal route. Glacier,
PD; 35°, II; 344m, 1,5h from Erzherzog-Johannshütte.
Normal route.
Very popular. Glacier ascent (crevasses) with exposed ridge from Kleinglockner to Grossglockner. Ice pegs for protection. There are several possible starting points. All join at Erzherzog-Johannshöhe ('Adlersruhe', 3454m).
from Franz-Josefshaus (2418m) via Hoffmannshütte ("Hofmannsweg")
from Stüdlhütte (2802m) ("Alter Kalser Weg")
from Salmhütte
End & Peterka #1002
- Grosslockner am 13. u. 14. August 1988. By Walter Plattner.
- Journal Excerpt. >Via Hofmannshütte (Hofmannsweg). By Greg Slayden at Peakbagger.
Meletzkigrat (Glocknerkarkamp). Rock,
PD; 35°, II; 344m, 1,5h from Erzherzog-Johannshütte.
A. Gulden, H. Gulden, H. Mechwart, J. Bernsteiner, A. Lackner & J. Rubitsch, 1892-07-27.
Shortcut to the normal route. From Franz-Josefshaus (2418m) along Hoffmannsweg to Frühstückplatz (2793m). From there along Meletzkigrat to Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe', 3454m), II. 61m, 3h. From there along normal route to the summit. The route was forgotten for long, until E. Meletzki and G. Hecht used the route again 02.09.1925.
End & Peterka #1046, #1002
- Grossglockner Meletzkigrat. Route page. At Bergsteigen.at.
- Grossglockner Meletzkigrat. By Petr Homola.
- Route page. At SummitPost.
North side
600, high north side of Grossglockner has host of difficult ice and mixed routes. All climbs start from Glocknerbiwak (3260m). Access to Biwakschachtekl is from Franz Josef's Höhe via Pasterze (crevasses, 35°). Biwakschactel accommodates 8 people, crowded during the season. Approach from Biwakschachtel to routes 15-45min.
- Biwakschachtel, Franz-Josefshaus (2418m) - Hofmannshütte (2444m) (Gamsgrubenweg) - Biwakschachtel (3260m) ( #120 )
Eisnase (Theo-Riml-Gedenkanstieg). Ice, .
K. Hoi, L. Baumgartner, G. Hle, W. Haiden, W. Laserer & M. Rust, 1984-09-29.
Extreme ice ascent, 90+° (20m), 80° (45m), 60° (2 pitches), 40°. 1/2 h from top of the route via Kleinglocknerkees to Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe', 3454m). From there along notrmal route to the summit.
End & Peterka #1004 (approach), #1056 (Eisnase) & #1002 (normal route from Adlerruhe)
- Route page. At Bergsteigen.at.
Schneiderrinne Light. Ice,
75°; 400m, 3,3h.
Ice route next to Eisnase "Theo-Riml-Gedenkanstieg" and original Schneiderrinne. 1/2 h from top of the route via Kleinglocknerkees to Erzherzog-Johannshütte ('Adlersruhe', 3454m). From there along notrmal route to the summit.
- Route page. At Bergsteigen.at.
Pallavicinirinne. Ice/mixed,
D-/D; AI1-2/50-55°, III; 600m, 2-6h.
A.Pallavicini, J. Tribusser, G. Bänerle & J. Kramser, 1876-08-18.
A. Horeschowsky, 1924-07-06.
Maria Zeh & Th. Zeh, 1926-06-28.
R. Götz, 1953-02-05.
G.Winter & H.Zacharias, 1961-08-07.
Classic.
Ultra classic ice ascent 50°, in upper third 55°. Until early summer often firn, later blank ice. Stonefall danger in NE ridge where ice cover is retreating during the morning hours, also from rope teams in the exit of the route. After snowfall acute avalanche danger. Parade ice climb of Glockner massif, very impressive. Exit to summit rocky.
Approach: 3/4 hours from Glockner-Biwakschachtel (3260m). First along slope, then slightly descending (crevasses, seracs) below north face and further to firn field on the foot of Pallavicinirinne.
Cross the bergshrund and climb directly upwards as the steepness of the couloir increases. Climb directly, slightly to the left of the fall line from Obere Glocknerscharte (summit ridge). Around 60-80 meters below the summit ridge to the right in steep rock (III) to the summit (first ascent exit variation). Another option is a direct ascent to Glocknerscharte (1005). It is slightly steeper (around 60°) and is more of an ice climb than the original variant.
End & Peterka #1004
Pallavicinirinne (direct). Ice,
D-/D; AI2/60°, II; 600m, 2-6h.
Classic.
Ultra classic ice ascent 50°, in upper third 55°. Until early summer often firn, later blank ice. Stonefall danger in NE ridge where ice cover is retreating during the morning hours, also from rope teams in the exit of the route. After snowfall acute avalanche danger. Parade ice climb of Glockner massif, very impressive. Exit to summit rocky.
Approach: 3/4 hours from Glockner-Biwakschachtel (3260m). First along slope, then slightly descending (crevasses, seracs) below north face and further to firn field on the foot of Pallavicinirinne.
Cross the bergshrund and climb directly upwards as the steepness of the couloir increases. Climb directly, slightly to the left of the fall line from Obere Glocknerscharte (summit ridge). Around 60-80 meters below the summit ridge to the right in steep rock (III) to the summit (first ascent exit variation). Another option is a direct ascent to Glocknerscharte (1005). It is slightly steeper (around 60°) and is more of an ice climb than the original variant.
Nordgrat. Rock,
Bergführerroute (Direkte Nordwand). Mixed,
V, 90°; 600m, 6h.
K.Hoi, L.Baumgartner, St.Lackner, A.Prugger & H.Christoph, 1985-08-30.
End & Peterka #1004 (approach), #1016 (route)
Szalay. Mixed,
D+/TD; M5 AI2/55-65°, V; 600m.
Ideal direct line to the summit through the north face
Welzenbach. Mixed,
IV+, 55°; 600m, 5-7h.
Willo Welzenbach & Karl Wein, 1926-09-19.
P.Nagy, R.Thaler, 1964-03-04.
Famous mixed climb
On that occasion [Willo Welzenbach] and Karl Wein, arriving in Austria on a Saturday morning after a tiresome overnight rail journey from Munich, cycled some 20 kilometers up the Fusch Valley and crossed a pass involving 1600 metres of ascent to reach the hut serving as a base for their route. With a 2:30 a.m. start on Sunday, they completed their intricate 1400 metres of ascent [of the Grossglockner North Face], in which the face of 600 metres is now recognized as one of the hardest mixed climbs in the Eastern Alps, and returned to base by dusk. Assisted by a full moon, they re-crossed the pass to the Fusch Valley that evening and cycled down to the railway station to catch the night train back to Munich." -Eric Roberts, Welzenbach' s Climbs
End & Peterka #1018 (approach, lower part), #1019 (route)
Aschenbrenner. Mixed/ice,
Berglerrinne. Mixed/ice,
D-/D; 55°, III; 600m, 5,5h.
E. Rainier (to Oberer Nordwestgrat), 1929-09-09.
St. Eder, 1980-05-24.
Classic ice couloir on the north face. Usually followed by oberer Nordwestgrat to summit (140m, UIAA III (direct variant UIAA III+), 1,5h). Most difficult parts are the start and NW Ridge. Stone fall danger. Broad snow couloir up to Grögerscneid 3660m (440m, 4h). it is possible to descend from Grögerscheid to the south side (Stüdlhütte, 2802m). Oberer Nordwestgrat is a steep ridge on solid rock. Much less frequented than Stüdlgrat, at least as fine. At first firn ridge until the first rocks. The rocks are turned on the left (north) side. Most difficult part is a slightly loose 10 vertical step (Drasch-Platte). It is normally turned on the right side via a narrow ledge (Raggetiner-band) until a crack on the side wall leads back to the ridge crest (UIAA III, exposed, bolts for belaying). It is also possible to to climb the Drasch-Platte directly (UIAA III+, extremely exposed). It is also possible to turn Drash-Platte on the left (north) side via mixed terrain (less exposed but more vague). Descent Normal route. Also possible to descent on NW Ridge to Grögeschneid and descent snow couloir (Grögerrinne) towards south to Stüdlhütte.
End & Peterka #1018 (approach), #1024, #1033 (route)
- Route page. At SummitPost.
- Route page. At Bergsteigen.at.
Mayerlrampe (Glocknerhorn Nordwandrampe). Mixed/ice,
D+; WI3-/60-70°, III; 4-6h from base to summit.
S.Mayerl, H.Lindner & H.Messner, 1967-10-19.
W.Petodnig & G.Rpsenfelder, 1970-01-04.
Varied ice/mixed route on the north face of Grossglockner. Considered by many to be the nicest route on the mountain. At first 200-250m steep snow along lower Facilidesrinne followed by the actual Mayerlsrampe (5 pitches of blank ice up to 70 to Grögerscneid (3660m, 500m, 3,5h). Usually followed by oberer Nordwestgrat to summit (140m, UIAA III (direct variant UIAA III+), 1,5h). Most difficult parts are at the start of Mayerlsrampe and on NW Ridge. Less threatened by stone fall danger than Pallavicinirinne and Berglerrinne. Approach 20 min from Biwakschachtel. At first 200-250m snow 40-50° along lower Facilidesrinne followed by the actual Mayerlsrampe (5 pitches of blank ice up to AI3 (70°) to Grögerscneid 3660m). It is possible to descend from Grögerscheid to the south side (Stüdlhütte, 2802m). Oberer Nordwestgrat is a steep ridge on solid rock. Much less frequented than Stüdlgrat, at least as fine. At first firn ridge until the first rocks. The rocks are turned on the left (north) side. Most difficult part is a slightly loose 10 vertical step (Drasch-Platte). It is normally turned on the right side via a narrow ledge (Raggetiner-band) until a crack on the side wall leads back to the ridge crest (UIAA III, exposed, bolts for belaying). It is also possible to to climb the Drasch-Platte directly (UIAA III+, extremely exposed). It is also possible to turn Drash-Platte on the left (north) side via mixed terrain (less exposed but more vague). Descent Normal route. Also possible to descent on NW Ridge to Grögeschneid and descent snow couloir (Grögerrinne) towards south to Stüdlhütte.
End & Peterka #1018 (approach), #1063, #1033 (route)
- Route page. At Bergsteigen.at.
Northwest ridge & Glocknerwand
600, high north side of Grossglockner has host of difficult ice and mixed routes. All climbs start from Glocknerbiwak (3260m). Access to Biwakschachtekl is from Franz Josef's Höhe via Pasterze (crevasses, 35°). Biwakschactel accommodates 8 people, crowded during the season. Approach from Biwakschachtel to routes 15-45min.
- Biwakschachtel, Franz-Josefshaus (2418m) - Hofmannshütte (2444m) (Gamsgrubenweg) - Biwakschachtel (3260m) ( #120 )
Gesamte NWgrat (Glocknerwand traverse). Mixed/ice,
D-/D; IV/IV+, 50°; 1000m, 5,5h.
Oberer Nordwestgrat is a steep ridge on solid rock. Much less frequented than Stüdlgrat, at least as fine. At first firn ridge until the first rocks. The rocks are turned on the left (north) side. Most difficult part is a slightly loose 10 vertical step (Drasch-Platte). It is normally turned on the right side via a narrow ledge (Raggetiner-band) until a crack on the side wall leads back to the ridge crest (UIAA III, exposed, bolts for belaying). It is also possible to to climb the Drasch-Platte directly (UIAA III+, extremely exposed). It is also possible to turn Drash-Platte on the left (north) side via mixed terrain (less exposed but more vague). Teufelskamp - complete traverse of Glocknerwand - Untere Glocknerscharte - Teufelshorn - Glocknerhorn - Grossglockner. Also possible from the north side (Glocknerbiwak).
End & Peterka #1033 (Obere NWgrat)
South side
- Stüdlhütte, Lucknerhaus 1918 - Stüdlhütte 2802, 884m, 2,5h ( #210 )
Alter Kalser Weg. Glacier,
PD; II, 35°; 344m, 1,5h.
Normal route. From Stüdlhütte (2802m) to Erzherzog-Johannshüttee ('Adlersruhe', 3454m) 21/2h. From there along the normal route to the summit (35° II,).
End & Peterka #54 (to Adlersruhe) & #1002 (summit).
Stüdlgrat. Rock,
AD; III; 534m, 3h.
Classic. Classic rock/mixed climb. Rises directly to the summit. Approach from Stüldhütte (2802m) 463m, 1h.
End & Peterka #1027 (approach) & 1037 (Stüdlgrat)
- Grosslockner. Ascent via Stüdlgrat, descent via Normal route in July 1996. By Dietmar Hahm.
- Route page. At Bergsteigen.at.
- Route page. At SummitPost.
Südwand.
570m.
V. Pillwax, P. Unterberger & S. Huter, 1891-06-29.
Approach 427m from Stüdlhütte (2802m)
End & Peterka #54 (approach) & 1038 (route).
Südgrat.
AD+; IV; 600m.
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Ari Paulin (email), 2009 |
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