Eastern Alps: Dolomites & Garda
Dolomites are located in northern Italy. Their name comes from the mineral dolomite which is common in the rocks, colourful dolomitic limestone. Although Dolomites are relativeley low, the mountains are very dramatic featuring characteristic limestone pinnacles and spires and high vertical or overhanging faces, some of them over 1000 meters high. The highest peak of the Dolomites is Marmolada (3342m). However, propably the most famous is Cima Grande (2999m), a classic climbing peak with impressive North Face.
Considering that the whole Dolomites is fairly compact it consists of a lot of groups and subgroups. Many of these groups are very small, perhaps only containing one or two main mountains and number of subsidiary peaks. Many mountains consist of large number of rock towers which are often given a name. In most other mountain areas that would not be the case. For the sake of this site Dolomites is divided the following way:
- Brenta Dolomites Brenta Dolomites form the westernmost part of Dolomites. They are located in the Province of Trentino, west of river Adige. Main convenient centers of the group are Madonna di Campiglio (1550m) and Pinzolo. The highest and most dominating peaks of the group are Cima Tosa (3173m) and Cima Brenta (3155m).
- Western Dolomites Central part between river Adige in the west and axis Val Badia–Campolongo Pass–Cordevole Valley (Agordino) in the east.
- Eastern Dolomites Eastern dolomites consists of a number of ranges around the city of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Grouping varies somewhat according to level of detail and source, but typically at least the following groups are identified:
- Southern Dolomites
Wilder and more alpine mountains than those on other Dolomites groups. Separated from the rest of the groups by Adige valley. Several small glaciers and snow gullies and a lot of cia ferratas.
Via delle Bocchette, a series of via ferratas, crosses Brenta group in north-south direction. This is servers as important means of access to some of the climbs.
- Northern Brenta
- Southern Brenta
- Sfulmini-group North south chain in central Brenta with four main peaks from north to south: Torre di Brenta, Campanile Alto, Campanile basso and Brenta Alta. From the east the chain is almost uniform ridge, from the west there there are several ridges and towers. Main climbing destinations are campanile Basso and Torre di Brenta.
Central part between river Adige in the west and axis Val Badia–Campolongo Pass–Cordevole Valley (Agordino) in the east.
- Langkofel Langkofel group is located due west of Sella group, separated from it by passo Sella (2244m). The main peaks form a horseshoe around Langkofel hut with peaks surrounding it in clockwise order: Langkofel, Fünffingerspitze, Grohmannspitze, Innerkofler, Zahnkofel and Plattkofel. Main access is from val Gardena in the north. Southern access from Canazei (1440m) in val de Fassa. During the winter the group has several long and steep ice couloirs offering big ice routes.
- Rosengarten/Catinaggio The group is popular among trekkers and hikers from val di Fassa but not very popular among climbers. Most popular climbing targets are three pinnacles of Torri del Vajolet, east face of Catinaccio and West face of Roda di Vael (Rotwand). Most of the climbing routes moderately difficult as well as short and accessible enough to be possible as day trips from cabin or camp site. Classics are Steger on the East face of Rosengartenspitze and the climbs on Vajolet towers. Rotwand is the best known difficult objective of the group.
- Southern Catinaccio Southern Catinaccio group is located to the south of passo delle Coronelle (2630m). It is a horseshoe of peaks around Gran baja de Vael with Roda di Vael, La Sforella, Tscheinerspitaze, la Coronelle, Mugoni (Cima de Mugoni). By far the most famous climb is this area is Rotwand.
- Sella Centrally located group with roads around the whole group. It appears giant fortress of vertical walls and not distinct summit. Access to the group is very easy due to roads and lifts. Most popular climbs are Sella Towers, Piz Ciavazes and Pordoispitze. Piz Boé is known as the easiest 3000m peak in Dolomites.
- Pala Group
Pala-group is the westernmost of the southern groups. Main city is San Martino. NW part is best accessed from Volpi/Mulaz or Rolle pass, sentral part from San Martino di Castrozza via lift to col verde, Pedrotti/Rosetta hut or Velo hut, SE part from Trevido hut and Ne part from val di San Lucano.
Best known climbs are located in the central section of the group. Probably the best known peak of the area is Pala di San Martino. Classic route on it is Gran Pilastro. Another well known climbs are Scarf arete and big routes on Sass Maor. Apparently there are a lot of worthwhile mid-grade climbing in the group as well as winter ice climbing.
- Sassolungo Group. The large area hosts a variety of routes with the N and NE face hosting 1000m+ rock routes. The S and W faces hosts shorter routes of varying lengths. There are also shorter routes on the Punta Della Cinque Dita which range from 200-350m. At UKC Climbing.
- L'Onda di Hokusai. The Molignon peak dominates the upper Duron valley with its imposing face that marks the southern end of the Seiser Alm. The route takes a line up the eastern flank and finished immediately to the right of the Molignon di Dentro summit. The route follows a line of ice unique to the Dolomies, a real north face reminiscent of the Western Alps which, due to its beauty and length, could easily be found in the Mont Blanc massif. By Andreas Tonelli & Philipp Angelo at Planet Mountain.
- L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli. Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2013-04-02.
- Sella Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
- Langkofel/Sassolungo Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
- Puez-Geisler (Odle) Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
- Catinaccio (Rosengarten). Area page. At SummitPost.
- Pale di San Martino Group. Area page. At SummitPost.
Eastern dolomites consists of a number of ranges around the city of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Grouping varies somewhat according to level of detail and source, but typically at least the following groups are identified:
- Fanes & Tofana Due west of Cortina d'Ampezzo (1210m). Quite large area with several groups of peaks.
- Le Conturinas Large half circle of peaks in the NW part of Fanes, above rifugi la Veralla (2042m) and Rifugi Fanes (2060m).
- passo Valparola
Long North-south chain due north from passo Valparola (2192m) and passo Falzarego (2109m) forming the western bank of val Travenanzes. The chain extends from Crode del Valon Bianco (2687) in the north via Cime di Furcia Rossa to Monte Ciavai (2912m), Cima Scotoni, Lagazuoi Nord and Sud to Lagazuoi Piccola and Sas de Stria. The latetr lies somewhat isolated from the rest of the peaks on the south side of the road but very close to it and the other peaks.
Southern peaks of the group are easily accessible from the passes and are by far the most polular climbs in this area. Further from the road, the main starting point of the area is Rifugi Scotoni (1985m).
- passo Falzarego South facing climbs not far from passo Falzarego. Particularly popular is combination of South arete of Piccolo and West face of Grande, as descent from Piccolo places climbers directly to the base of the latter.
- Tofana di Rozes Tight group of several worthwhile routes of all grades. Most routes are easily accessed from Rifugi Dibona (2030m), short drive away from Cortina d'Ampezzo. The group has lots of via ferratas as well as World War I history.
- Tofana North-South chain of peaks located to the east of Tofana di Rosez and forming the eastern bank of val Travenanzes.
- Fanestal Group located to the north of val di Fanes. Modern rock routes on Spalti di col Bechei (250-350m). Approach from the road 2h.
- Cinque Torri Group located to the south of Falzarego pass and SE of road Cortina d'Ampezzo - Pocol - Selva di Cdore (1335m). Relatively short routes (up to 220m). Easy access fro most routes from Cortina d'Ampezzo along the road to Falzarego pass. Road to Cinque Torri hut (2137m) for the hut guests, chair lift for others. Croda da Lago and north side of Nuvolau are best approached from the road Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Giau.
- Monte Pelmo Compact massif NE of Civetta group and south of Cortina d'Ampezzo. The massif consists only two peaks, Monte Pelmo and Pelmetto. Both of them are of their steepest and most interesting from the north.
- Cortina Dolomites SE of Cortina d'Ampezzo, there are three mountains/groups. Sorapiss, Marmorole group and Antelao. These are high and wild peaks, but not as famous and popular as Tre Cime and areas in the central part of Dolomites.
- Monte Cristallo-Pomagagna NE of Cortina d'Ampezzo and north of passo Croci.
- Pomagagna group Westernmost of groups located NE oof Cortina d'Ampezzo, located very close to the city. Best known climbs of the area are Fiemes arete and via Comune on Punta Fiemes.
- Monte Cristallo group
- Cadinspitzen Cadini di Misurina. Located to the east of laguna Misurina, north of val d'Ansiei and south of Sexten Dolomites. Attractive small pinnaclesa with number of short and mainly easy climbs.
- Sexten Undisputed king of Sexten Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo rising in the western part of the group, not far from Cortina d'Ampezzo.
- Tre Cime di Lavaredo
- Paternkofel-Croda dei Toni-Cima Una Located to the east of Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Croda dei Toni and Cima Una are big isolated peaks with interesting normal routes (II and III0 respectively) and big north faces. Paternkofel on the other hand is located close to Tre Cime and has several via ferratas.
- Civetta Civetta group is Y-shaped which consists of Civetta and several lower features. Torre di Caldri is located at NE end, Torre Venezia in SW end and Torre Trieste at south end. Most obvious target for climbers is 1000m high NW face of Civetta rising above Alleghe. Other better known targets include South face of Torre Trieste and Torre Venezia. Of three normal routes of Civetta, two involve via ferrata.
- Moiazza Moiazza group is located to the south of Civetta group. separated from it by by a col close to Torre Trieste. Most routes are located on the lower reaches going nowhere near the summit. Routes consist of pure rock and approaches ands descents are usually easy. Pala delle Masenade is probably the best known climbing venue of Moiazza group. Fr. Corestiato hut is the main base.
- Bosconero-Mezzodi Bosconero and Mezzodi groups are located in Zoldo Dolomites, in the south-eastern part of Dolomites. There are no high or otherwise very well known peaks in the area. As a result, the area is far less frequented as more famous parts of Dolomites. Val di Zoldo is important base for accessing the climbs in the group. Most climbs start from Bosconero cirque in NW.
- Mezzodi Located west of Bosconero group. The group consists of four major pinnacles, with Spiz di Mezzo (2324m) being the dominating one. Access is from Forno di Zoldo via val Pramper.
Access to climbs is easy as the Dolomite region has excellent roads, which are used today as geographical boundaries when dividing the range into smaller groups. Many of the villages in the area, like so many others throughout the Alps, have become well-organized tourist attractions. Of great importance as access to mountains are long road 48 running from SW to NE connecting Adige river valley with Cortina d'Ampezzo (val di Fiemme, val di Fassa, passo di Sella - passo Falazarego) and two north-south roads: one from Bruneck (Pustertal) to Agorda (Val Badia – Campolongo Pass – Cordevole) and road 51 from Toblach (Pustertal) in the north to Belluno. The former of north-south roads divides Dolomites into western and eastern sections.
Generally the best approach to climbing here is to establish a central base in a hotel or camp area, and make excursions from there. Most climbs can be done in a day from the car, but some are best approached from a high alpine hut.
About climbing in the area
Dolomites has various kinds of climbing:
- Dolomites is best known for being known as the mecca for multipitch rock. The terrain in the Dolomites is steep and complex. But the rock is amazingly featured and seemingly unclimbable walls can go free at only moderate levels of difficulty. There's loads and load of classic routes on various parts of the area. Probably the best known big and hard climbs are north faces of
and south faces of Civetta3220m and
- During the winter there are quite a few places where ice and mixed routes can be found. Particularly Sottoguda, val Vallunga, val Travenanzes and val Daone are well known among ice climbers for . Difficult alpine ice/mixed routes can also be found of the area, particularly on the gullies of Langkofel group, Rosengarten and
- There are also several places with sport climbs. Best known of these areas is probably Arco by the northern end of lake Garda (although this is strictly speaking not part of the Dolomites).
- Classic mountaineering is not the dominating style of climbing on Dolomites. That being said, there are some classic ice/snow faces and couloirs on Cima Tosa3173m, Cima Brenta3150m, north side of
and Monte Cristallo3221m in particular.
- Ski mountaineering mostly around the peaks as many of the peaks are far too rocky and steep for ski ascents. However, the classic couloir are a playground for extreme skiers.
- Great number of via ferratas on many of the high peaks.
Brenta Dolomites has few classic couloirs (Canale della Tosa, Brenta Nordrinne) offering playground for classical alpinism as well extreme skiing. Classic rock climbs of the area are to be found on especially on Campagnolo Basso (Via Preuss and Diedro Fehrmann), Crozzon di Brenta (Via Schulz and Pilastro die Francesi), Cima Margherita (Via Videsott) and Croz dell'Altissimo (Via Dibona). Also there are loads of low altitude rock climbs around Arco located at the northern end of Garda.
The best known climbing destinations in Western Dolomites are big rock faces of Marmolada (South face) and Civetta (NW face). Sella group is probably the most visited areas with lots of popular climbs of far less intimidating size. During the winter Catinaccio and especially Sassolungo groups have several ice routes of alpine scale on steep couloirs.
By far the most prominent feature of eastern Dolomites are towers of Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen). Particularly their north faces have been the place where standards of alpine rock climbing have been pushed during the years. And they still are as many of the most difficult multipitch rock routes of the world are to be found of north faces of Cima Grande and Cima Ovest. Also Civetta-group has big and difficult rock climbs, particularly on 1000m high NW face and South face of Torre Trieste. Cinque Torri group has lower and smaller objectives that are easily accessible.
During the winter ice fall climbing can be found on several valleys of the area. The best known places are Sottoguda-Serrai, Vallunga and val Travenazes. Illuminati is one the most difficult multipitch mixed routes anywhere and has been featured in many articles since its first ascent.
Apart from glaciers of Brenta Group and Marmolada, there is little snow or ice in the Dolomites, and that which does occur melts away by May, thus conditions are very good for rock climbing.
Ice climbing season is about the same as in most of the Alps, perhaps a bit on the shorter side due to moderate altitude and southern location.
Various grading schemes are used depending on the nature of the climb, time of the first ascent and source. Generally
- Rock routes. Traditionally uiaa grades have been used, they baan been partly supercede by using e-frade (in a way extension to uiaa) grade for trad and alpine routes and french grades for modern sport routes. This distinction is not very clear cut though, as at least the most difficult routes are usually fraded with french grades independent on whether they are small sport routes or very alpine in nature. Popularity among visiting climbers has caused them to grade several Dolomites routes to have been graded with several other systems for the purpose of articles, reports etc. Whenever applicaple standard aid grade is used.
- Alpine climbs. Generally alpine grade is not given for pure rock routes even if they would be very alpine in nature. There are several exception to this though. If alpine grade is used, it is almost certainly ifas grade. Some of the big walls routes may have nccs alpine grade though.
- Ice and snow climbs. Generally alpine grade and angle of steepness (older and less steep alpine routes), WI-grade for ice falls and modern alpine ice routes.
Guidebooks and maps
Being very popular area, there's no shortage of information about climbs in the Dolomites. There are loads of guidebooks available in various languages (aside Italian, also several in German and English) covering different areas and every type of climbing.
- Südöstliche Dolomiten - Gebietsführer Für Wanderer Und Bergsteiger. Gebietsführer Für Wanderer Und Bergsteiger. Isbn: 9783763333073. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1991.:
- 3000er Der Dolomiten - Die Normalwege. Ein BERG-Tourenführer. Isbn: 9783763410774. Verlag J. Berg, 1993.:
- Dolomiten-Klettersteige. Isbn: 3-7654-3679-8. Denzel-Verlag.:
- Klettersteigatlas Alpen. Isbn: . Bruckmann.:
- Classic Rock Climbs in the Dolomites. Isbn: 1898573344. Baton Wicks Publications, 1999.:
- Eiskletterführer "Südtirol-Dolomiten", 1. Auflage. edition. Isbn: 9783936740608. Panico Alpinverlag, 2009.:
- Dolomites, West and East - Alpine Club Climbing Guidebook, New Ed Edition edition. Isbn: 9780900523656. Alpine Club, 2002.:
- Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen - Auswahlführer mit 84 Tourenvorschlägen für Österreich, Südtirol und die Schweiz. Isbn: 9783950092004. Alpinverlag Jentsch-Rabl, 2004.:
- Hochtouren Ostalpen - 90 Fels- und Eistouren zwischen Bernina und Tauern. Isbn: 9783763330102. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.:
- Alpine Ice - The 600 Best Ice Falls In The Alps. Isbn: 9788887890839. Versant Sud, 2009.:
- Klettern in Den Dolomiten Im 3. Und 4. Grad - Die Schönsten Routen Für Anfänger Und Genie?Er: Die Schönsten Routen Für Anfänger Und Fortgeschrittene, 1., Aufl. (NED). edition. Isbn: 9788882669140. Athesia, 2013.:
- Vie E Vicende in Dolomiti. 50 Itinerari Scelti E Raccontati (Luoghi Verticali). Isbn: 9788887890273. Versante Sud, 2005.:
- Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites, Vol 1, Revised Edition edition. Isbn: 1852843624. Cicerone Press, 2003.:
- Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites, Vol 2 - Southern Dolomites, Brenta and Lake Garda. Isbn: 1852843802. Cicerone Press Limited, 2010.:
- Dolomiten - Kletterführer 3-4, 4. , Vollst. Überarb. U. Erw. A. Edition edition. Isbn: 9783763330157. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003.:
- Dolomiten - 50 Alpine Kletterrouten., 1. Auflage 2013 edition. Isbn: 9783763370641. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2013.:
- Dolomiten. Sella, Langkofel Extrem. - Für Bergsteiger Und Kletterer.. Isbn: 9783763313150. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2001.:
- Dolomiten. Sella, Langkofel Extrem. - Für Bergsteiger Und Kletterer.. Isbn: 9783763313150. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2001.:
- Mid Grade Trad Rock. Western Dolomites 1 - 57 mid grade trad rock in: Odle-Puez-Putia, Sassolungo, Sella, Catinaccio, Marmolada, Pale di San Martino. Isbn: 9788897299080. Idea Montagna, 2011.:
- Mid Grade Trad Rock. Western Dolomites 2. Isbn: 9788897299103. Idea Montagna, 2011.:
- La Nuova Guida Del Catinaccio. Isbn: 9788827219652. Edizioni Mediterranee, 2008.:
- Dolomiten. Civettagruppe. - Civettagruppe. Isbn: 9783763313020. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1981.:
- Ghiaccio Verticale - Le Più Belle Cascate Delle Alpi Orientali. Isbn: 9788880430650. :
- Tre Cime. Vie Classiche E Moderne. Isbn: 9788887890884. Versante Sud, 2009.:
- Tre Cime: Classic & Modern Routes. Isbn: 9788887890976. Versante Sud, 2011.:
- Sextener Dolomiten Extrem - Alpenvereinsführer. Isbn: 9783763312559. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003.:
- Dolomiten - Pelmo Mit Bosconero, Moiazza, Tamer-Gruppe, Cime Di San Sebastiano. Isbn: 9783763313068. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1981.:
- Arrampicare in Cadore - Falesie Nel Cuore Delle Dolomiti. Isbn: 9788897299257. Idea Montagna, 2012.:
- Ice fall climbing. Good introduction to ice climbing areas. Mostly covers the areas in the Dolomites, but selected other areas are covered as well. At Planet Mountain.
- Rock climbing in the dolomites. At Planet Mountain.
- Dolomites. Area page. At SummitPost.
- Dolomites routes. At Planet Mountain.
- Dolomites - Ice, Mixed and Drytooling. The Dolomites need no introducing as a summer climbing venue, however many people don't realise that the climbing is equally impressive during the winter months. There are literally icefalls everywhere, covering all grades and lengths, set in some of the most dramatic scenery in Europe. By James Rushforth at UKC Climbing on 2012-03.
- Dolomites. The Dolomites have to be one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. There are countless long routes at all levels of difficulty. The rock is limestone, the quality of which can vary dramatically! Many of the climbs have short approaches, and the longer ones can often be accessed via lifts. Definitely a classic and historical climbing destination. Most of the routes are "old school", so feel out the ratings. At Mountain Project.
- Dolomites. At UKC Climbing.
- Ice Climbing in the Italian Dolomites. February 7-14, 2010 (Selva di Cadore/Sottoguda, Val di Gares, Valle di Daone). By Peter Valchev at Valchev.net.
- Dolomites - Ice Climbing in the Serrai di Sottoguda, an Ice Climber's Paradise. Talk of the Dolomites and most people either don’t know what you’re talking about, or they instantly start talking about vertiginous Via Ferrata and ridiculous rock climbing lines up soaring cliffs. These mountains, despite their modest stature and proximity to a road head or a ski lift offer some of the finest alpine rock one can find. But there is also a lack of information about other activities which puts people off – the reality is there is so much more to these mountains than just the normal activities your average Briton knows about. By Casa Alfredino at UKC Climbing on 2015-04.
- Gulliver.it. A lot of route info mainly on Italian and nearby areas. Only available in Italian.
- Alpinismo e arrampicate. Sito Web di Sergio Ramella. By Sergio Ramella.
- Quarto Grado. Site seems to have a lot of topos available online.
Main valley to the west of Brenta group. Madonna di Campiglio (1524m) located in the valley is the convenient center in the valley and excellent starting point for climbing in Brenta Dolomites.
Due NW of Brenta group, access from Madonna di Campiglio. Main valley to access the climbs with several huts, of which particularly rifugi Brentei is important.
Due south of Brenta group with Rifugi Agostini as a base for climbs. Access from San Lorenzo. Main climbing destinations are Cima d'Ambiez and Torre d'Ambiez (2840m). The latter is one of five towers due south of Xima d'Ambiez.
Due SE from lake Molveno. Rifugi Croz dell'Altissimo
Arco is situated within the Sarca Valley due north from the northern end of lago di Garda. There are over 50 sports crags and 30 long multi-pitch crags in the area ranging from single-pitsch sport routes to long, Dolomites-style routes on steep limestone rock up to 1400m long. Better known big walls include Monte Casale, Piccolo Dain and Monte Brento.
- Rock Climbing at Arco and in the Sarca Valley. Arco is situated within the Sarca Valley and offers something for everyone, from single pitch sports routes to long Dolomite style airy multi-pitch routes on the big walls of Monte Casale, Piccolo Dain and Monte Brento. The whole area is vast with many 1000's of routes to choose from at all grades on superb limestone rock. Situated just north of Lake Garda and only a couple of hours from the Dolomites it is possible to rock climb throughout most of the year and is easily accessible if wet in the mountains around the Dolomites. At Climb Europe.
- Arco - Italian Sport Climbing Mecca. By Jack Geldard at UKC Climbing on 2008-01.
Ice fall mecca of Brenta.
Western and Eastern Dolomites
Main valley if the western part between Brenta group in the west and Western Dolomites in the east. Long north-south valley with Trento and Bolzano. Motorway through the valley from Verona to Innsbruch. Separates Brenta Dolomites from Western Dolomites. To access climbs of the western Dolomites, side valleys Val Gardena and val di Fassa are important.
St. Ulrich (1236m), St. Christina (1428m) and Wolkenstein (1564m) are the main convenient centers in the valley.
Main climbing attractions are Sella group and Langkofel group during the summer. During the winter Vallunga (Langental) has a several famous mixed climbs that rank among the most difficult in the world (Illuminati IV M11+ WI6, 170m, Zauberflöte IV M5,A1 WI6 155m, Piovra III WI5+ 130m are among the classics). Obviously there are also less extreme climbs. Sassolungo (Langkofel group) on the other hand has several steep couloirs with difficult ice/mixed climbs.
- Klettern in Gröden Und Umgebung - Die Schönsten Routen in Den Dolomiten. Isbn: 9788882666095. Athesia, 2009.:
- Klettern in Gröden Und Umgebung - Die Schönsten Routen in Den Dolomiten Vol. 2. Isbn: 9788882667313. Athesia, 2011.:
- Rare Trad M10 Goes Up in Italy. January 27-30, Austrian climbers Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established Senza Piombo (WI5 M10, 5 pitches), one of the hardest, traditionally protected mixed routes in the world. By David Crother at Alpinist on 2013-02-11.
- Vallunga valley. A fantastic steep sided valley in an amazing setting. Home to the new 'Sandro Pertini' VF and a popular winter climbing venue. At UKC Climbing.
- Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites. The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2013-02-01.
- Leichtfried blazes Illuminati M11+/WI 6+. On 24 January Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena (South Tyrol) N. Italy . The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain on 2006-02-07.
- Illuminati. By PlanetMountain at Planet Mountain.
- Dolomites: Illuminati 1^ female repeat. On Jan. 27, the German climber Ines Papert partnered by the Austrian Lisi Steurer managed the ascent of Illuminati M11 + /WI 6 +, the icefall opened by Albert Leichtfried in Vallunga (Val Gardena), thus the probable third repeat and first female ascente. At Up-climbing.
- Selva di Val Gardena. At Gulliver.it.
- Cascate di Ghiaccio - Val Gardena, Sella e Val di Fassa. By Alberico Mangano & Nicola Tondini at Planet Mountain.
val di Fassa
Road from river Adige valley in the west to Falzarego pass and further to Cortina d'Ampezzo is the main west-east road through Dolomites. The main centers in the valley are Pozza di Fassa (1320m) in the loweer valley and Canazei (1450m) in the upper valley.
From the lower valley main objective is Catinaccio group, which can be accessed readily from the road leading from Pozza di Fassa to the eastern side of the group.
Canazei gives access to Sassolungo group in NW, Sella group in NE. Road between Sassolungo and Sella groups leads from Canazei to passo Sella and further down to val Gardena. Further up the valley from Canazei towards Cortina d'Ampezzo the road rises to passo Fedaia, which give convenient access to north side of Marmolada.
West-east valley that branches from river Adige valley close to Penserjoch (2215m). The valley forms to northern border of Dolomites. Road through the valley to Lienz. Bruneck and Dobbiaco are main convenient centers in the valley.
Val Badia–Cordevole Valley
Val Badia in the north (from Bruneck in Pustertal) and Cordevole Valley in the south are connected by Campolongo Pass. The road through these valleys is considered to separate Western and Eastern Dolomites.
- Tabacco: 025 Dolomiti de Zoldo, Cadorine e Agordino1:25 000
From Pustertal in the north to Campolongo pass.
The valley forms SW border of Dolomites. San Martino di Castrozza is well positioned to visit mountains of Pala-group, located immediately to East of the city.
The valley gives access to Civetta NW face and South face of Marmolada, two of the biggest faces in Dolomites. During the winter the main attraction is Serrai di Sottoguda. Agordino and Alleghe are the main cities in the valley.
Val di Zoldo
Long valley NW from Piave Valley by Longarone, somewhat NE of Belluno. Lago Pontesei - Forno di Zoldo - Dont - Zoldo Alto.
The valley is surrounded bu several groups: in clockwise direction Pelmo and Bosconero groups on the east side and Pramper, Moiazze and Civetta on the west side.
From the upper valley road continues up to Forzella Staulanza (2694m) before descending to Selva di Cadore (1335m), passo Giau (2236m) and Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Centrally located valley in the heart of the eastern Dolomites. Cortina d'Ampezzo located in the valley is the most important center of the area. There are numerous side valleys that are used to get to the climbs.
During the winter val Travenanzes is the mecca around Cortina d'Ampezzo. The valley has loads of ice climbs, Sogno Canadese (III WI5, 200m) perhaps the most classic of them.
- Klettern in Cortina D' Ampezzo Und Umgebung - Dolomiten - Die Schönsten Routen in Den Dolomiten, 3., Aufl. edition. Isbn: 9788882669041. Athesia, 2013.:
Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Cimabanche
At first directly north, then to NE to passo Cimabanche.
Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Tre Croci
Towards east from Cortina d'Ampezzo through passo Tre Croci. Used to access Cortina Dolomites and Sexten Dolomites.
Cortina d'Ampezzo - Belluno
Cortina d'Ampezzo - passo Falzarego
Towards west from Cortina d'Ampezzo. Important valley to access several groups from Cortina d'Ampezzo. Particularly used to access Tofana di Rozes, Fanes and Cinque Torri. Further beyond Falzaregopass roads lead to val di Fassa (Canazei) and val Gardena (Alta Badia).
Large valley system forming the Southern and eastern border of Dolomites. Main city of the valley is Belluno.
Auronzo - Misurina road is important for accessing climbs on Sexten Dolomites and Cadini di Misurina.
Dominating peak in northern Brenta group. Distinct ridges towards North and SE.
Crozzon di Brenta46.16222210.8688893135
Located a bit to the north of Cima Tosa and connected to it with airy ridge. There's a bivouac hut Bivacco Ettore Castiglioni on the summit. Easiest ascent is from south via the summit of Cima Tosa. Preuss route and Frenchman's Pillar are likely the most famous rock climbs.
North ridge (Spigolo nord)
. D; IV+; 900m, 5-7h.
Via delle Guide
. TD; V+; 820m, 9h. 1935-08-02First ascentBruno Detassis & Enrico Giordani, 1935-08-02.
. AD; II/III; 1850m, 10h. 1884-08-08First ascentKarl Schulz & Matteo Nicolussi, 1884-08-08.
Normal route. Via summit of Cima Tosa.
Highest peak in Brenta Group in northern Dolomites. Traverse along the normal route from the south and descending to SE is a classic mountaineering route never exceeding grade II. Other classics include prominent ice couloir of Canale della Tosa and NE Face Direct (Castiglione-Detassis). The easiest route to the summit of Crozzon di Brenta is the traverse from Cima Tosa.
Canale della Tosa (North Couloir, Nordrinne, Canalone Neri)
, AD/AD+; 55, (one passage, mostly 40-45)°, II-III; 900m, 2,5-4h. 1929-01-01First ascentVergilio Neri (solo), 1929.
Classic ice couloir between 700m high rock faces of Crozzon di Brenta and Cima Tosa.
NE face direct
, V; 750m, 8-10h. 1933-01-01First ascentCastiglioni & Detassis, 1933.
Normal route from south
, II; 300m, 2,5h. 1886-01-01First ascentMigotti, 1886.
Located slightly to the south of Cima Tosa. The most interesting aspects of the peaks are SE and East faces, both of which are accessed from rifugi Agostini, which is gained though val Albiez from the south.
, V+/VI; 350m, 3-6h. 1939-01-01First ascentPino Fox & Marino Stenico, 1939.
Normal route. From the col between Cima and Dente del Ambiez.
- Cima Brenta
- Cima Occidentale
The second highest peak in Brenta Dolomites. Not many climbing routes. The normal route is from the west side. Bouth South face normal route (Compton, II) and NE normal route (II) are accessed from Bochette Alte.
Nordrinne (North gully, Scivolo nord)
, AD; 45°, II; 350m, 1-2h.
Relatively quiet and unknown ice route.
Most interesting aspect of the peak in regards of rock climbing. Routes up to 650m starting from uiaa VI (Detassis-Stenico).
. VII,A2/7c; 700m. 1965-01-01First ascentNavasa, Dal Bosco & Baschera, 1965.
Torre di Brenta46.16777810.8958333014
Several rather short (120-300m) routes, mostly in AD-D range.
, PD; II; 300m. 1982-06-24First ascentEdward Theodore Compton & Matteo Nicolussi, 1982-06-24.
Normal route. From hut via Bocca degli Armi, Vedretta dei Sfulmini and north side to West ridge.
Leonardi. Rock, D+; IV+; 300m. 1943-08-18First ascentL. de Ferrari, Guido Leonardi, C. Scotoni & Lidia Scotoni, 1943-08-18.
Via Detassis (Detassis-Giordani). Rock, 400m, 4-5h. 1934-08-23First ascentBruno Detassis, Ulisse Battistata, Enrico Giordani & Pompeo Marimonti, 1934-08-23.
Via Paulke. Rock, 5a/4,A0; 300m.
Via Hartmann-Krauss. Rock, IV+; 550m, 5-6h. 1927-08-08First ascentH. Hartman & G. von Krauss, 1927-08-08.
Campagnile Basso (Guglia di Brenta)46.15416710.8986112883
Perhaps the most important climbing peak in Brenta Dolomites. Several classic rock routes. Organizing of the climbs is far from straight forward as there's a large ledge below the summit tower. Several routes use this to skirt around the mountain.
Via Normale (Berger - Ampferer)
, III AD+; III/IV/4c; 270m, 3h. 1899-08-18First ascentCarl Berger & Otto Ampferer, 1899-08-18.
Normal route. Route skirts around the peak several times.
, TD-; 5c; 110m, 5 pitches, 2h. 1911-07-28First ascentPaul Preuss, 1911-07-28.
, 350m (13 pitches), 5-7h from Brentei hut + 120m (4 pitches), 2h. 1929-01-01First ascentVergilio Neri (solo), 1929.
Combination of SW Arete and NE Aretes.
Fehrmann (SW corner)
, V+; 600m, 21 pitches. 1908-01-01First ascentRudolf Fehrmann & Oliver Perry-Smith, 1908.
From the bottom of the peak.
, V+. 1994-01-01First ascentNino Pooli, 1994.
First route attempted on Campanile Basso. Common start with via Normale with more direct finnish (35m).
Southern main peak of Sfulmini group. Normal route is from col Bocca di Brenta (2549m) on the south to the summit (1 or II). More difficult routes on South arete, West face (Steger) and particularly on NE face and arete.
Via Detassis. Rock, ED+; VI+; 550m. 1934-08-15First ascentUlisse Battistata, Bruno Detassis & Enrico Giordani, 1934-08-15.
- Langkofel (Sassolungo)
- Spallone del Sassolungo (Langkofeleck)
- Pilastro Stenico
- Campanile Doppio
- Pilastro Paolina
- Campanile Est
- Pilastro Nord
- Campanile Ovest
- Salame del Sassolungo
Big and highly complaex peak of multiple summits. Probably the most classic routes are Pichl (North ridge of Campanile Est) and Pilastro nel sole (NW face of Sassolungo Ovest). North face Big complex peak with several subsidiary peaks.
NE face is 1,5km wide and 1000m high.
North ridge (Pichl)
, IV+/V-/5.6; 950m, 27 pitches, 10-12h. 1918-01-01First ascentPichl & Waizer, 1918.
Classic. To Campagnile Est.
, WI6 M6 V+,A0. 2013-01-08First ascentAdam Holzknecht & Hubert Moroder, 2013-01-08.
Climbs the narrow obvious ice drip somewhat to the left of Pichl route.
. PD+; III (passages), mostly II/5.5; 930m, 5-6h in ascent, 2-3h in descent from Langkofel hut (2253m). 1869-01-01First ascentPaul Grohmann, F. Innerkofler & P. Salcher, lower part, 1869.1885-01-01First ascentJ. Santner & J. Merzbacher, central part, 1885.1892-01-01First ascentL. Bernhard & G. Davarda, upper part, 1892.
Normal route. Long high alpine climbing.
Pilastro nel sole
, V+; 1000m, 7-9h.
Classic. Through NW face of Campanile Ovest.
- Daumen (Pollice, Thumb) (2953m)
- Zeigefinger (Indice, Index finger)
- Mittelfinger (Medio, Mittelfinger) (2998m)
- Ringfinger (Anulare, Ringfinger)
- Kleinfinger (Mignolo, Little finger)
- Punta Leone
Group of six (!) towers located between Grohmannsspitze and Sassolungo. Middle finger is the highest point. Of other points, Thumb is by far most independent. Very popular rock climbs on south face, west ridge and NE face. Particularly Thumb ridge & traverse of the peaks is classic rock climb. All climbs are accessed either from Sella pass or Demetz hut.
Daumen (Pollice, Thumb)2953
North ridge (Thumb ridge, Spigolo del Pollice)
, AD+/IV; 350m, 3h. 1917-01-01First ascentGustav Jahn, K. Huter & Erwin Merlet, 1917.
Zeigefinger (Indice, Index finger)
Mittelfinger (Medio, Mittelfinger)46.51363411.7378192998
The highest peak on Fünffingerspitze.
, AD; III+; 300m, 11 pitches, 3h. 1891-09-09First ascentLuigi Bernard, M. Barbaria & H. Wood, 1891-09-09.
Normal route. Bypasses the Thumb on the north face.
Ringfinger (Anulare, Ringfinger)
Kleinfinger (Mignolo, Little finger)
Grohmannspitze (Sasso Levante, Punta Grohmann)3126
Located to the west of Fünffingerspitze.
. AD+; IV/5.5; 350m, 3h. 1895-08-23First ascentE. Enzensperger, J. Enzensperger & KL. von Chelminsky, 1895-08-23.
Dimai/Eötvös (Via Dimai)
, D; IV; 500m, 13 pitches. 1908-01-01First ascentAntonio Dimai, J. Summermatter, I. von Eötvös & R. von Eötvös, 1908.
Via Harrer (Via Harrer-Wallenfels, South face direct)
, TD-; V; 600m, 6h. 1936-01-01First ascentHeinrich Harrer & K. Wallenfels, 1936.
Innerkofler (Punta Pian de Sassi, Torre Innerkofler)3098
Located to the west of Grohmmansspitze.
via del Calice
. TD+/ED-/nccs IV 5.10; VI+/VII/6a; 500m, 12 pitches, 7h. 1977-01-01First ascentG. Maffei & G. Stenghel, 1977.
, IV WI5+ M2; 500m.
Three distinct couloirs offering 500m of steep ice and mixed during thee winter. Central one (and probably the easiest), Mistica, is a classic climb.
Anima Mundi. Ice, V WI5+ M6; 500m.
, TD+; III/IV WI4+; 500m.
Classic. Central of the three distinct couloirs.
, TD; IV WI4 M4; 500m. 1900-01-01First ascentA.Mangano, C. Inselvini & G. Casarotto.
Il Dente (Zahnkofel, Dente del Sassalungo)3001
Kesselkogel (Catinaccio d'Antermoia)46.46666711.653002
The highest peak of Rosengarten group. Located to NW of Rosengartenspitze and Torri di Vajolet. Popular via one of the normal routes (one from the east, another one from west). Apparently there are several via ferratas on the peak. Not particularly important as a climbing destination.
Torri del Vajolet
- Torre Piaz (2670m)
- Torre Delago (2790m)
- Torre Stabela (2805m)
- Torre Winkler (2800m)
- Torre Est (2813m)
Vajolet Towers is a group of several towers. However, climbing is generally concentrated on the three central ones (Delago, Stabela and Winkler). Traverse of the three is a classic. Also, SW arete of Delago, Fehrmann on Stabela and Steger on Winler are considered classics.
Smaller tower, located to the left (when seen from south) of the main towers. Small practice peak with routes up to 50m.
SW arete (Delagokante, Piaz-Kante)
, D-; IV+/5.7; 130m. 1911-08-09First ascentGiovanni Battista, Tito Piaz, Francesco Jori & Irma Glaser, 1911-08-09.
From the col between Torre Piaz and Torre Delago.
Middle and the highest of the three central towers.
, IV+/5.7 PG13. 1908-08-01First ascentRudolph Fehrmann & Oliver Perry-Smith, 1908-08.
Laurinswand (Croda di Laurino)11.61890046.4587312813
NW of Catinaccio.
NE of Catinaccio
Rosengartenspitze (Cima Catinaccio)2981
- Anticima Sud
- Anticima Nord
Most interesting feature is East face. It has several routes to all three peaks. Steger to Central peak is the classic on the face.
From forcella sud (2680m) between Catinaccio & Crest di Devoi (Baumannkamm, 2713m).
Steger (East face Direct)
, III TD/nccs IV 5.9-; V+/5c/5b,A0; 600m, 6-7h. 1929-01-01First ascentHans Steger, Paula Wiesenger, Fred Mase Dari & Siegfried Lechner, 1929.
Classic. Classic route to the highest peak (Central).
Access to North and NW faces.
West face & North ridge
, II+; 250m, 2h. 1874-01-01Rosengartenspitze, West face & North ridge, First ascent
Vinatzer (NW face direct)
, VIII-/VI,A1; 300m, 3h. 1935-01-01First ascentVinatzer & Peristi, 1935.
Tscheiner-Spitze (Cima Sforcella)2810
Rotwand (Roda di Vaèl)2806
Southernmost peak in Catanaccio group. Known for its impressive West face (known as Rotwand).
West face (Parete Rosa, Rotwand, Teufelswand)
Famous 400m high vertical face. At least six routes exist on the face, of which classic Dibona is clearly the easiest. The rest were originally aid routes, some of them have later been free climbed. Buhlweg is considered the best of the hard routes.
, D+; V-; 400m, 4h. 1908-08-11First ascentA. Dibona, A. Verzi, A. Broome & A. Corning, 1908-08-11.
, VIII; 350m, 8h. 1958-01-01First ascentBrandler & hasse, 1958.
- 1st Sella Tower (2533m)
- 2nd Sella Tower (2597m)
- 3rd Sella Tower (2688m)
- 4th Sella Tower (2605m)
Group of five rock towers immediately east of passo Sella at the SW end of Sella plateau. The towers are located close to the road and are accordingly popular. Particularly the traverse of three first towers (routes Steger - Kostner - Jahn) is very popular moderate classic.
1st Sella Tower2533
Steger (NW arete)
, D-; IV+/5.7; 200m, 4 pitches, 1h. 1928-06-30First ascentHans Steger & Ernst Holzner, 1928-06-30.
Tissi (WSW arete)
, VI/5.10a/b; 180m, 7 pitches, 3h. 1936-01-01First ascentAttilio Tissi, Mariola Guglielmini & Giorgio Mase Dari, 1936.
Follows the WSW ridge of tower 1 and finishes on the South face. It is relatively short, all the belays are bolted, the approach and descent are short.
Trenker (SW corner)
, V-/MVS,4b/5.7; 180m, 6 pitches, 1,5h.
2nd Sella Tower2597
, VI/HVS,5b/5.10a; 250m, 11 pitches, 4h. 1968-01-01First ascentReinhold Messner & Gunther Messner, 1968.
Kostner (SW face)
, AD+; III+/5.6; 120m, 3 pitches, 1h. 1905-01-01First ascentFranz Kostner & Maria Gabloner, 1905.
Kasnapoff (NW arete, North face)
, V+/5.8; 250m, 9 pitches, 4h. 1913-01-01First ascentAnton Zelger & Frau von Kasnakoff, 1913.
3rd Sella Tower2688
The highest of Sella towers.
Jahnweg (SW face)
, III+/IV/5.5; 350m, 7 pitches, 3h.
Vinatzer (West face)
, D+; V+/5.8; 300m, 13 pitches, 4h. 1935-01-01First ascentGiovanni Battista Vinatzer & Vicenzo Peristi, 1935.
Piz Ciavazes (Cengia dei Camosci)2828
NE of Sella Towers and SW of Sella Plateau. No distinct summit but 500m high South face above Canazei. One of the more popular climbing destinations, particularly South face has lots of routes, including several that are considered classics.
Via ferrata Mèsules
, II,A0; 300m, 1,5h. 1907-01-01First ascentHaupt & Mayr, 1907.
Normal route. One of the earliest via ferratas. Originally IV.
500m high rock face above Canazei. As far as the number of routes goes, one of the most popular faces of Dolomites. The face is divided into three natural sectors by two huge dihedrals. The face is crossed by large and very obvious terrace Cengia dei Gamasci (Gamsband). Several of the routes stop there. Many parties choose to as well, even if the route would have upper tier.
, D-; IV+/V; 300m, 3h. 1928-01-01First ascentLuigi Micheluzzi, Rogers & Piero Slocovich, 1928.
, VI/HVS,5b/5.10a; 250m, 12 pitches. 1936-01-01First ascentLuigi Micheluzzi & Ettore Castiglioni, 1936.
Route of Friendship
, VI/HVS,5b; 250m, 7 pitches.
, VII-/E2,5c/5.10c; 130m, 7 pitches. 1960-01-01First ascentDonato Zeni & Lino Trottner, 1960.
Pordoispitze (Sass Pordoi)2952
Cable car to the summit from passo Pordoi.
Reasonably small face above passo Pordoi.
South pillar (Mariakante, Via Maria)
. IV+/5.7+ PG13; 250m, 9 pitches. 1932-01-01First ascentTita Piaz & Virginio Dezulian, 1932.
Pordoiwand (NW Face)
Biggest face in Sella group.
, D; IV+/HS,4b/5.7; 800m, 26 pitches, 6h (to big ledge, another 1,5h to summit). 1929-01-01First ascentFedele Bernard & Giorgio Mase Dari, 1929.
Dibona (Via Dibona fino alla Grande Cengia)
, D-; IV+; 750m, 6h to ledge. 1910-08-06First ascentAngelo Dibona, Luigi Rizzi, G. Mayer & M. Mayer, 1910-08-06.
Neuner (Sasso delle Nove)2904
There are several Neuner peaks in Dolomites. This one is located in Sella Group and is not to be mixed with Neunerspitze( 2968m) located in Ganes group.
There are few chimneys on the face, the one closest to deep cleft separating Neuner from Zehner is the location of Castiglioni-Detassi.
, D; V; 250m, 9 pitches. 1935-07-10First ascentEttore Castiglioni & Bruno Detassis, 1935-07-10.
Zehner (Sasso delle Dieci, Sass dles Diesc)3016
The highest peak of Sasso delle Croce.
SE face direct (Costiglioni-Detassi)
, V; 370m, 3h.
- Piz Boé (3152m)
- Sasso di forcia Occidentale (2923m)
- Sasso di forcia Orientale (2800m)
Known as the easiest 3000m peak in Dolomites. Multiple via ferratas. Rock climbing on peaks and pinnacles above passo Pordoi. Sasso di forcia Occidentale and Orientale are the two most important of those pinnacles.
, 650m, 2-4,5h round trip.
Easy via ferrata from ski lift Vallon (2537m).
Sasso di forcia Occidentale2923
Sasso di forcia Orientale2800
- Marmolada di Penia (3342m)
- Marmolada di Roccia (3309m)
- Marmolada d'Ombreta (3230m)
Marmolada is W-E ridge with three main summits and two wide faces. The highest summit is Marmolada di Penia, which is the westernmost summit. Minor ridge towards north and south (South Pillar) from West summit (Penia) divide the faces into NW and North faces and SW and South faces respectively. North side is glaciated and served by ski lifts. South side on the other hand is one of the biggest rock walls in the Dolomites and houses over 100 routes on 850m high and 3 km wide face. There are about a dozen via ferratas and a ski lift to East summit.
- World Mountaineering pp.64-7
Marmolada di Penia46.43472211.8508333342
North face is the only real glacier of Southern Dolomites.
, AD+; 50-55°, II-III; 650m, 4h. Approach 0,5h (75m) from Pian dei Fiacconi (2626m). 1955-06-25First ascentL. Paladin & S. Zeppini, 1955-06-25.
- Hochtouten #41
- Eisklettern #33
Normal route from north
. F+/PD/G1-2; 30°; 700m, 1,5-2h. 1864-01-01First ascentP .Grohmann, A. Dimai & F. Dimai, 1864.
Normal route. Glacier route with crevasses. Starting at the top of the ski lift (Pian dei Fiacconi, 2626m), the route climbs the glacier on Marmolada's north side.
, IV+/IV, mostly III/5.6, mostly 5.5 and easier; 650m, 5h. 10h round-trip from the Rifugio Falier. 1902-01-01First ascentM. Bettega, B. Tomasson & B. Zagonel, 1902.
Separated from wide south face by South Pillar dropping from the summit
Hanns-Seiffert-Weg (West ridge)
, PD/G1-2; I; 3,5h. 1898-01-01First ascentRizzi, Seiffert & Ditmann, 1898.
Via ferrata starting at Marmolata Col.
Separated from much wides north face by a minor spur towards north.
Marmolada di Roccia3309
Moderne Zeiten (Tempi moderni)
, 6c/VII+ (1 pitch), mostly VI+ and VI); 800m, 27 pitches, 10-12h. 1982-01-01First ascentMariacher & Javane, 1982.
- AC W 6.2d
- World Mountaineering #8
Vinatzer with Messner exit
, VI+/5.9; 800m, 30 pitches, 8-10h. 1969-01-01First ascentG.B.Vinatzer & E.Castiglari in 1936 (main route) and Reinhold Messner, 1969.
Mostly V and V+. Upper part mostly II and V, with one pitch each of VI and VI+.
- Köhler #30
- AC W 6.2f
- World Mountaineering #9
The highest part of wide Marmolada South face.
, VI/HVS,5b; 750m, 5-7h. 1979-01-01First ascentMariacher & Schiestl, 1979.
Located in the NW corner of the group above val Venegia. 700m high steep West face, much gentler east slope.
Cima delle Madonna2733
Somewhat smaller than its immediate neighbour of Sasso Maor. Scarf ridge is a classic.
Scarf ridge (NW ridge, Spigolo del Velo)
, D+; V/V+/5.7+; 450m, 10 pitches, 4h. 1920-07-19First ascentGünther Langes & Erwin Merlet, 1920-07-19.
Classic. Interesting, exposed and superb rock.
Immediate neighbour of Cima delle Madonna. East face is home to biggest climbs in Pala-group.
East face above val Canali. Routes around 600m or more (SE ridge 890m) and starting from V.
Via Castiglioni (SE ridge)
, TD-; VI-; 890m, 6-7h. 1934-01-01First ascentE. Castiglioni & B. Detassis, 1934.
, V+; 600m, 7-8h. 1926-01-01First ascentSolleder & Kummer, 1926.
West face is the main climbing attraction from Pradidali hut. Classic route on the face is Buhl.
600m face with several tower and gullies. Routes around V or more on the face proper. North face can also be gained from the west providing easier climb.
, TD; VI-; 600m, 6h. 1950-01-01First ascentHermann Buhl & R. Henweg, 1950.
, III; 600m, 3h. 1894-01-01First ascentZecchini & Brodie, 1894.
Quieter and smaller neighbour to Cima Canali west face. West face looks small compared to its bigger neighbour but still there are routes around 350m. Classic on the peak is SW arete 'Castiglioni-Detassis'.
Castiglioni-Detassis (SW arete)
, D+; V-; 350m, 6h. 1934-01-01First ascentE. Castiglioni & B. Detassis, 1934.
Pala di San Martino2987
Gran Pilastro is probably the most famous route in Pala group together with Scarf ridge of Cima delle Madonna. Bivouac hut on the summit.
Gran Pilastro (SW Pillar)
, D; IV; 600m, 5-6h. 1920-07-24First ascentGünther Langes & Erwin Merlet, 1920-07-24.
Pala del Rifugio2394
Located very close to Sasso d'Ortega and Dente delle Rifugio. Climbs are found on NW ridge, NW face and SW face, all of which are accessible from Treviso hut.
- AC E 7.19
- Köhler #81
- Köhler #82
Located very close to Pala del Rifugio and Dente delle Rifugio. Climbs on West ridge and SW face, both from Treviso hut.
Scalet/Bettega (SW face)
, TD; VI+/V+,A0; 280m, 9 pitches, 4h. 1961-01-01First ascentSamuele Scalet & Aldo Bettega, 1961.
Wiessner/Kees (SW face, West ridge)
, D+; V+; 390m, 3-4h. 1928-01-01First ascentFritz Wiessner & Hermann Kees, 1928.
Reportedly one of the best routes of the group.
Cima del Coro2699
Located at NE end of val Canali. South face above val Canali with routes around 400m and grades starting from V. Classic NW ridge (III).
Fanes & Tofana
Neunerspitze (Sasso Nove)2968
Not to be mixed with Neuner (2904m) located in Sella group. The most distinct feature is 300m high slab face, a rarity in Dolomites.
300m high slab face, a rarity in Dolomites.
, V/VS,4c; 250m, 2,5-3h. 1968-01-01First ascentGünther Messner & Reinhold Messner, 1968.
, IV+; 360m, 2,5h. 1968-01-01First ascentGünther Messner, Reinhold Messner & Hahn, 1968.
via delle Placche
, V; 250m, 3h. 1965-01-01First ascentGünther Messner & Reinhold Messner, 1965.
Heiligkreuzkofel (Santa Croce, Sass dla Crusc)46.61427911.9509152911
Most interesting feature is 300m NW face (Grande Muro) with several difficult routes. All routes are considered more difficult than Cassin on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo.
NW face (Grand Muro)
Wide 300m high face with several difficult routes. All routes are considered more difficult than Cassin on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo. The face drops from the ridge with few summits from the left: Piz dl' Ciaval, Pilastro Centrale, Piz dl' Pilato and Piz dl' Zübr. The routes to three first summits are more difficult and longer than the ones on Piz dl' Zübr on the rhs of the face (these are still ~300m and TD).
, ED+; VII-/VI,A1; 600m. 1962-01-01First ascentSepp Mayerl & M. Rohracher, 1962.
obvious huge dihedral.
, ED+; VI+/6a/E1,5b; 600m. 1969-01-01First ascentReinhold Messner & Hans Frisch, 1969.
West face of central pillar
. ED; 600m. 1968-01-01First ascentReinhold Messner & Günther Messner, 1968.
Cima del Lago2632
Most distinct climb is the huge dihedral of SW corner formed by Cima and Torre del Lago (2632,). faces of Torre have difficult toutes.
SW corner (Diedro dall'Oglio)
, D; IV+; 300m, 12 pitches. 1954-08-02First ascentPaolo Consiglio, Marino dall'Oglio & G. Micarelli, 1954-08-02.
Gains the actual corner a bit below mid height. Lower overhangs are turned on left.
, TD+/nccs IV 5.10a,A1; VI+,A1/6c+/6a,A1; 400m, 16 pitches. 1952-06-12First ascentGino Lacedelli, Luigi Ghedina & Guido Lorenzi, 1952-06-12.
Ends at the upper of the two terraces without going all the way up to the top.
Southernmost of the main peaks on the north-south chain to the west of val Travenanzes. Main attraction is West face.
West face (Via del Drago)
, VI-; 300m, 9 pitches, 4h. 1969-09-26First ascentClaudio Barbier, Almo Giambisi & Carlo Platter, 1969-09-26.
West face, SW face
Via del Buco
, AD+/D-/nccs II 5.5 PG13; IV+/S; 310m, 10 pitches, 3h.
Via Maurizio Speciale
, D-; VI-; 235m, 3-4h. 1986-10-14First ascentGigi Signoretti, Massimo Doglioni, Michele Barbiero & Andrea Zannini, 1986-10-14.
Sasso di Stria (Hexenstein)46.52111.9972477
Simewhat isolated from aöö other peaks in the groups as Hexenstein is located to the south of the road. Short and easy access from passo Falzarego. Popular moderate classic.
, IV+/HS,4b/5.5-5.6; 150m, 6 pitches. 1939-08-01First ascentA. Cobertaldo & Lorenzo Pezzotti, 1939-08-01.
Torre di Falzarego
- Torre Piccola di Falzarego
- Torre Grande di Falzarego (2499m)
South arete of Torre Piccola di Falzarego (Comici/del Torso/Varale) is a classic easy route (IV+, 150m, 7 pitches. There are also several climbs on Torre Grande di Falzarego.
Torre Piccola di Falzarego
South arete (Comici/del Torso/Varale)
, AD+; IV+/HS,4b/5.5-5.6; 150m, 7 pitches. 1934-08-10First ascentEmilio Comici, Sandro del Torso & Mary Varale, 1934-08-10.
Torre Grande di Falzarego2499
via Lussato (West face)
, AD; IV/S,4a; 130m, 4 pitches, 1h. 1957-08-13First ascentS. Lussato, 1957-08-13.
Col dei Bos (Cima Bos)2450
Close neighbour of Tofana di Rozes. Compelling South face but not many routes or climbers.
, D+; V; 250m, 11 pitches, 4h. 1947-07-13First ascentSilvio Alverá & Luigi Menardi, 1947-07-13.
Tofana di Rozes
Tofana di Rozes3244
- Tofana di Rozes
- Tofana di Mezzo
- Punta Giovannina
Main climbing attraction in Tofana group. Right hand side of the face has three pillars, all joining East ridge. Pillars are names so that first is the one furthest away from the summit. There are several routes on the pillars, none of them going to the summit. Particularly first and second pillars have classic routes.
via Classica (Dimai/Eötvös, South face)
, D+/TD-/nccs IV 5.6; IV+; 800m, 19 pitches, 5-6h. 1901-08-01First ascentDimai, Eötvös & Eötvös, 1901-08.
Goes all the way to the summit.
Pillar Rib (South face Buttress 2, Constantitni-Ghedina)
, TD-/nccs IV 5.9; VI-/HVS,5a; 500m, 18 pitches, 6-8h. 1946-01-01First ascentEttore Constantini & Luigi Ghedina, 1946.
- Spigolo Costantini - Ghedina. A relatively easy and popular climb (UIAA 4 and 5, one 6- crux) up the left-hand arête of the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes. The three hard pitches traverse leftwards past two large yellow roofs at half height. Paradoxically, the large quantity of in-situ gear off-route makes correct route finding difficult! At Planet Mountain.
- Via Costantini - Ghedina. At Quarto Grado.
Pilastro (Südwandpfeiler, Constantini-Apollonio, South face Buttress 2)
, nccs V 5.11; VII+/V+,A2/E4,6b/6c/6b,A0; 500m, 19 pitches, 6-7h. 1944-01-01First ascentEttore Constantini & Romano Appollonio, 1944.
- Costantini - Apollonio. This is surely the most famous and popular route on this wall, thanks to its intrinsic beauty and perfect line. It is long and demanding, and initially climbs the crack line up the grey rock to the first ledge. From here it is possible to traverse down right and abseil into the gully that separates the Pilastro from the Primo Spigolo. The two famous roofs and the often wet "schiena di mulo" chimney are to be found in the more difficult upper section, which also contains the crux. The route traverses leftwards higher up and finishes on the same ridge as Costantini – Ghedina. At Planet Mountain.
Primo Spigolo (Via Alverà-Pompanin, First S Face Pillar, South Arete)
, II D+/III 5.7+ PG13; 5a/V; 320m, 14 pitches. 1946-08-01First ascentUgo Pompanin & Albino Alverà, 1946-08.
Normal Route. PD; 1200m, roundtrip 4-5h from Rifugio Angelo Dibona (2050m).
Via ferrata Giovanni Lipella. Ferrata, 1200m, roundtrip 4-5h from Rifugio Angelo Dibona (2050m).
, 2 days (7-8h + 10-11h).
Combination of via ferrata Giovanni Lipella, via ferrata Olivieri & via ferrata Tofana di Mezzo. Overnight at rifugio Giossani (2561m, CAI).
Tofana di Mezzo3244
The highest peak of Tofana group. Cable car to the hut located close to summit.
Minor spur of Tofana di mezzo. Steep SW face above Giussoni hut.
Spalti di col Bechei1950
Isolated peak with several difficult routes on its south face. Quite a hike from parking by Cortina d'Ampezzo-Schluderbach-Dobbiaco road (N51).
250-350m difficult rock routes. Most obvious line is Via Los Angeles following the central corner (6a+).
Via Los Angeles
, 6a+; 230m, 5h. 1984-01-01First ascentBellodis & Dibona, 1984.
- Torre Grande
- Torre Barancio (2308m)
Another example of somewhat peculiar naming, as there are many more than five towers, no matter how you count them. That aside, the towers have a lot of popular climbing, both classic multipitch and newer single-pitch. Classics include Via delle Guide, Via Myriam and Via Finlandia.
The highest tower of the group and the most popular climb. The summit is split into three.
Torre Grande South, South Face (Torre Grande Sud, South Face)
, V+/VS,5a/5.8; 140m, 6 pitches. 9297-06-27First ascentAngelo Dimai, Giuseppe Dimai & Arturo Gasperi, 19297-06-27.
Torre Grande North, East Face (Torre Grande Nord, East Face)
, VI+/VII-/5.10b/E2,5c; 150m, 3 pitches. 1959-07-27First ascentMatti A. Jokinen & W. Gstrein, 1959-07-27.
Torre Grande Ovest, SW face
Via delle Guide. Rock, IV/5.6; 100m, 4 pitches.
Alverá (via Illing-Alverà)
, D-/nccs II 5.6; IV+/HS,4b; 150m, 7 pitches, 3h. 1945-06-19First ascentAlbino Alverá, Ugo Pompanin, U. Illing & A. Apollonio, 1945-06-19.
Nuvolau (Gusela de Nuvolau)2574
Close to passo Giau (2233m) on its west side. Rifugi Nuvolay on the NE side of the peak is the closest hut.
. D; V; 310m, 3h. 1970-01-01First ascentFrancesco Dallago, A. Dallago, G. Valle, A. Menardi, Michielle & Constantini, 1970.
Croda da Lago
- Croda da Lago (2701m)
- Cima Ambrizzola (2715m)
- Cima Cason di Formin (2376m)
North-south chain of peaks located to the east of Nuvolau and north of forcella Ambrizzola (2277m).
Croda da Lago46.48333312.12701
, AD+; IV+; 310m, 3h. 1894-01-01First ascentMichel Innerkofler & E.R. von Eötvös, 1894.
Cima Cason di Formin2376
300m NW face, ~V.
Lastoni di Formin2585
Routes between 300 and 400m and around V.
Monte Pelmo (Sass di Pelf)46.420212.13323168
- Monte Pelmo (3168m46.420212.1332)
- Spalla Sud
- Spalla Est
Located NE of Civetta and South of Cortina d'Ampezzo, to the west of Antelao. Monte Pelmo was the first high mountain of the Dolomites to be climbed (John Ball 1857-09-19).
Most interesting feature of the east side is impressive SE pillar of Spalla Est.
Ball ledge. F; II; 1200m, 5h. 1857-01-01First ascentJ. Ball, 1857.
, IV; 800m.
SE pillar of Spalla Est. Significantly easier than Franchesa but not very popular.
, VI-,A1; 800m.
SE pillar of Spalla Est. More difficult and more sustained than Angelini.
, TD+; VI-; 870m, 12h. 1924-01-01First ascentRossi & Simon, 1924.
Classic. Serious undertaking.
Located to the west of Monte Pelmo and separated from it by deep col (Fisura, 2726m).
, X; 850m, 9h. 1936-01-01First ascentCasara & Visentin, 1936.
Classic. Easier but far less popular than North face of Monte Pelmo.
Located due south of Tre Croci pass.
The second highest peak of Dolomites after Marmolada.
- Antelao Group. The second highest peak in the Dolomites has a number of series routes in the summer and winter. A fantastic looking peak. At UKC Climbing.
. PD-; II; 1150m, 4,5h.
, TD; WI4; 600m, 25 pitches.
Impressive narrow goulotte. Far steeper than the classic couloirs of Cima Tosa and Cima Brenta.
, AD; 50°, II+; 900m.
Monte Cristallo group
Monte Cristallo has several couloirs (Staunier, Vallencant) that are famous among extreme skiers. Of the couloirs, Innerkofler is probably the one most interesting for climbers.
Innerkoflerrinne (Innerkofler Eisrinne, Canale Innekofler)
, 50-55°, III; 700m, 3-5h. 1887-01-01First ascentM. Innerkofler & C. Wydenbruck, 1887.
, PD; II+; 450m, 2 1/2h. 1865-01-01First ascentGrohmann, Dimai & Siorpa, 1865.
South ridge (Via Inglese)
. AD; IV; 600m, 4,5h. 1898-01-01First ascentDimai, Innerkofler, Pompanin, Phillimore & Raynor, 1898.
Torre del Diavolo2598
East & South face. VI-/HVS,5a.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
- Cima Picciolissima (Kleinste Zinne, Torre Preuss, Preussturm) (2700m)
- Punta de Frida (2792m)
- Kleine Zinne (Cima Piccola) (2857m)
- Cima Grande (2999m)
- Westliche Zinne (Cima Ovest di Lavaredo) (2973m)
Group in towers referred collectively to Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The name is somewhat misleading as there are actually five of them, although Picciolissima and Punta Frida are side summits of Piccola. One of the iconic mountains in Dolomites and entire Alps. No tourist routes up the peaks (easies routes around uiaa III). Most striking feature is the north side, there are several classic hard rock routes on the north faces of Cima Grande and Cima Ovest. The latter features one of the biggest roofs found anywhere in the Alps and has some of the most free difficult multi-pitch rock routes climbed anywhere.
Cima Picciolissima (Kleinste Zinne, Torre Preuss)2700
Preussriss (Preuss chimney)
, D+/TD-; 5/e IV+/5.7; 250m, 10 pitches. 1911-09-06First ascentPaul Preuss & Paul Relly, 1911-09-06.
, 7-/e VI/VI-,A0/E2,5c; 250m, 10 pitches. 1934-08-01First ascentRiccardo Cassin, Gigi Vitali & Luigi Pozzi, 1934-08.
Kleine Zinne (Cima Piccola)2857
. VI+; 300m.
The yellow Edge (South arete)
. nccs IV 5.9+; 6/e V+/E1,5b; 350m, 14 pitches. 1933-09-08First ascentEmilio Comici, Renato Zanutti & Mary Varale, 1933-09-08.
SW face (via delle Guide)
, D/IV/5.6; 250m, 10 pitches.
The highest peak of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Group, and one of the most famous peaks of the Dolomites.
Cima Grande, Normal route of Cima Grande, First ascent
|Normal route of Cima Grande: Franz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher & Paul Grohmann|
Cima Grande, Dibona, First ascent
|Dibona: Angelo Dibona & E. Stübler|
Cima Grande, Dülfer Dihedral, First ascent
|Dülfer Dihedral: hans Dülfer & Werner von Bernuth|
Cima Grande, Comici, First ascent
|Comici: Emilio Comici, Giuseppe Dimai & Angelo Dimai|
Cima Grande, Hasse-Brandler, First ascent
|Hasse-Brandler: Hasse, Branddler, Lehner & Löw|
The massive and overhanging North Face was widely believed to be impossible until it was finally climbed in 1958 by Dietrich Hasse. Today there are tens of routes on the face.
, TD+/ED-; IV 5.10c/d/7-/e VI-/V+,A0/5.8,A0/E3,6a. 1933-08-14First ascentEmilio Comici, Giuseppe Dimai & Angelo Dimai, 1933-08-14.
Classic. Classic alpine rock climb on the North Face of Cima Grande.
. ED; 8+/e VII/VI,A2/5.12; 600m (18-22 pitches), 6,5h. 1958-01-01First ascentHasse, Branddler, Lehner & Löw, 1958.
Classic. Classic alpine rock climb on the North Face of Cima Grande.
. D; 4/e V-/5.7; 400m (18 pitches). 1909-08-08First ascentAngelo Dibona & E. Stübler, 1909-08-08.
Classic. Classic alpine rock climb. 4 if the crux part is avoided by climbing on the East Face (2-3), if the crux is climbed directly on the arete 5-.
Normal route of Cima Grande
. PD/AD-; 3/e IV/5.5; 500m, 20 pitches, 3-4h. 1869-08-21First ascentFranz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher & Paul Grohmann, 1869-08-21.
. TD; 5+/e V+; 350m, 8 pitches, 3-4h. 1913-08-01First ascenthans Dülfer & Werner von Bernuth, 1913-08.
Westliche Zinne (Cima Ovest di Lavaredo)2973
Features one of the biggest roofs in the Alps and home to some of the most difficult alpine rock climbs.
Westliche Zinne, , Event
Scheibert & Weber
Westliche Zinne, , Event
Westliche Zinne, , Event
Westliche Zinne, Cassin-Ratti, First ascent
Westliche Zinne, Bauer-Rudolph, First ascent
|Bauer-Rudolph: Gerhard Bauer, Erich Rudolph & Walter Rudolph|
. nccs IV 5.11b PG13; 8/e VI/V+,A1/VIII; 450m. 1935-01-01Westliche Zinne, Cassin-Ratti, First ascent
, 9/e VII/VI,A3/7b/IX-/IX/5.8,A3/5.12c; 500m. 1959-01-01First ascentScheibert & Weber, 1959.
. 8c/XI-/5.14b/5.12c,A4; 10 pitches, 500m. 1999-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, 1999.
. 8c/5.14b; 500m. 2007-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, 2007.
, VI-,A3. 1968-01-01First ascentGerhard Bauer, Erich Rudolph & Walter Rudolph, 1968.
. AD; II+; 350m, 2-3h.
Paternkofel-Croda dei Toni-Cima Una
Located very close to Tre Cime di Laveredo, separated it by Paternsattel. Several via ferratas.
NW ridge (via ferrata de Luca-Innerkoffler)
. III+; 200m, 7 pitches. 1886-09-01First ascentSepp Innerkofler, Christian Innerkofler & E Biendl, 1886-09-01.
Croda dei Toni (Zwölfer, Zwölferkofel)3094
- Punta Civetta
- Punta Tissi
First ascent of Nortwestwand by Gustav Lettenbauer & Emil Solleder in 1925 was the first alpine route of grade VI in the Alps.
1000m face above Alleghe. First ascent of Nortwestwand by Gustav Lettenbauer & Emil Solleder in 1925 was the first alpine route of grade VI in the Alps. Currently there are several difficult on the face finishing eithet on the main summit or one of the subsidiary peaks along the long ridge.
, TD+; 5c/VI and V+; 970m (distance 1300m), 8-12h. 1925-01-01First ascentGustav Lettenbauer & Emil Solleder, 1925.
Classic. Classic rock climb, very popular. Several pegs in situ. Difficult retreat.
Via Emilio Comici-Giulio Benedetti
, VI+; 1050m (distance 1500m), 12-18h. 1931-01-01First ascentEmilio Comici & Giulio Benedetti, 1931.
High alpine rock climb with poor rock. Much harder than "Via Solleder-Lettenbauer".
West Face. IV, mostly III; 10 pitches.
Via ferrata degli Alleghesi
, II and I, via ferrata; 1600m, 10h (6+4) from Forcella Álleghe (1816m).
The route was stiff grade IV before the via ferrata was build.
Torre di Babele2310
, VI+; 330m, 4h. 1974-01-01First ascentGoedeke & Rien, 1974.
Solda (South arete)
, VI-; 300m, 4h. 1937-01-01First ascentSolda & Solda, 1937.
Short routes on good rock on South and SW faces.
Diedro da Roit (Agordo diedre)
, D; IV+; 350m, 2,5h. 1941-01-01First ascentArmando Da Roit, Carlo Zanvettor, Mario Facciotto & Attilio Penasa, 1941.
Located at the end of Civetta SW spur.
- AC 12.14
- Köhler #73
- Köhler #74
via Andrich-Faè (SW arete)
, TD+; V+; 310m, 5h. 1934-08-17First ascentAlvise Andrich & Ernani Faè, 1934-08-17.
via Ratti-Panzeri (SWS face)
, TD; VI/V+,A0; 420m, 5h. 1936-08-13First ascentVittorio Ratti & V. Panzeri, 1936-08-13.
Tissi (South face Direct)
, TD; V-; 540m, 7-9h. 1933-08-20First ascentAttilio Tissi, G. Andrich & A. Bortoli, 1933-08-20.
Longer and more difficult than West face.
via Castiglioni-Kahn (West face)
, D+; IV; 300m, 3h. 1929-01-01First ascentE. Castiglioni & G. Kahn, 1929.
Located at the end of Civetta south spur. Together with NW face Civetta, South face of Torre Trieste is the most famous climb in Civetta group. All routes on the face are long and difficult.
, ED-; VIII-/VI+,A2; 700m, 9h. 1934-01-01First ascentR.Carlesso & B.Sandri, 1934.
Classic. Obe of the classic hard routes in Dolomites.
South Arete (SE ridge)
, VII+/VI+,A2; 640m, 8h. 1935-01-01First ascentRicardo Cassin & V.Ratti, 1935.
West ridge (via Tissi)
, TD+; VI-; 650m, 6h. 1935-08-29First ascentAttilio Tissi, G. Andrich & Domenico Rudatis, 1935-08-29.
Pala delle Masenade2413
Probably the best known climbing venue of the Moiazza group.
- Köhler #70
- Köhler #71
- AC E 12.21
Located below south face of Moiazza. Routes are 300-400m long and at VI and upwards in grade. Classic routes are Solda and Bonetti crack.
Rochetta Alta di Bosconero2412
- North Pillar
- North summit
- Rochetta Alta di Bosconero
Big rock face of Tre Cime proportions. Main climbing attraction in Bosconero group. Steep faces in three directions, gentler east slope facing forcella Alta (2000m).
500m of sustained grade VI
Spigolo Strobel (NW arete)
, VII; 700m, 8h. 1964-01-01First ascentMenardi, da Pozza, Lorenzi & Zandrini, 1964.
Sasso di Toanella
West, North and East faces all have difficult routes.
, V+; 260m, 5h. 1964-01-01First ascentDa Damos, Gianeselli & Sommavilla, 1964.
Sass di Bosconero2436
Easy from East and south. Worhwhile NW ridge.
Antispigolo (NW arete)
, IV/IV+; 600m, 16 pitches, 4-6h. 1964-01-01First ascentPretto & De Pellegrini, 1964.
Susrained and exposed arete.
Sfornioi di Mezza
Excellent routes, particualrly SE Diedre and East face.
, V+; 420m, 5h. 1964-01-01First ascentAngelini & Sommavilla, 1964.
, V+; 450m, 5h. 1975-01-01First ascentBonetti, Bonetti & Lazzarin, 1975.