Bernina & Bregaglia
- Main summit (3937m)
- NW summit (Schneekuppe, Anticima NW) (3920m)
- Piccolo Roseg (Kleiner Roseg, Roseg Pitschen) (3868m)
Westernmost of the big peaks with three major ridges: NE ridge to Porta da Roseg, NW Ridge (Eselsgrat) and SW Ridge (Sellagrat) to fuorcla de la Sella.
Classic ascent follows W Flank but Eselsgrat (North ridge) is nowadays considered to be the normal route. All other routes are long and more difficult (Sellagrat (SW Ridge) and East Ridge via kleine Roseg are especially worthwhile). NE face is classic ice face but nowadays the conditions are not always favorable.
- Eselsgrat to Tschiervahütte
- SW flank to Chamanna Coaz
. AD+; III-IV; 5h from Porta Roseg. 1892-08-15First ascentE.J. Garwood, C.C. Branch, Martin Shocher & Christian Zippert, 1892-08-15.
From Porta Roseg via Roseg Pitschen to the summit. Climbed in descent when traversing over the whole chain from Roseg to Bernina.
Nordostwand (NE face, Parete nord)
NE face is classic ice face but nowadays the conditions are not always favorable. There are several lines on the face ranging between D and TD, the most feasible one depends heavily on the conditions. Most routes end at Schneekuppe and involve mixed rock as well as alpine ice.
Diemberger-Schöntaler (Direkte Nordostwand, diretta alla cima)
, TD; 65/70°, IV; 600m; 6-10h. 1958-07-01First ascentKurt Diemberger & Karl Schonthaler, 1958-07.
Classic. Direct route to main summit. Significantly more mixed than the routes further to the right. Endangered by seracs.
Neruda-Klucker (Nordostwand, NE face)
, D+; 55°, III; 5,5-8,5h, 670m/1350m from Tschiervahütte (2583m). 1890-06-16First ascentChristian Klucker & Ludwig Norman-Neruda, 1890-06-16.
Classic. Original route on the face. Climbs the central part of the face and finished on the col between Schneekuppe and main summit. Seracs may endanger the route.
- Hochtouren #16
- SAC 5 #405.1
- Firn- und Eisklettern #66
- Vanis #29
- Flaig #502
- Bündner Alpen #53
Diemberger-Schonthaler (parete NE anticima NW)
, III D+; M3+/60°, III; 680m. 1958-01-01First ascentKurt Diemberger & Karl Schonthaler, 1958.
. TD-; 70°; 600m. 1985-06-19First ascentHervé Bouvard & Patrick Gabarrou, 1985-06-19.
Clearly distinct route from the rest of the routes leading Schneekuppe, as the route starts to the right of broad rock section. Crux is the mixed section in the lower half of the route.
North Ridge (Eselsgrat)
Eselsgrat (North Ridge, Cresta NW)
. AD-/G4/E3; III, 40°; 624m/1354mm, 3h from the start of the actual climb, 6-8h from Tschiervahütte to summit. Descent along the same route to Pontresina 5h. 1876-08-18First ascentHenry Cordier, Thomas Middlemore, J. Jaun & Kaspar Maurer, 1876-08-18.
Nowadays considered to be the normal route and the most popular route both in ascent and descent.
The ridge is rocky between a prominent snow shoulder (P. 3598m) and Sellafirn. The ridge is gained from Vadret da Tschierva along snow field at approximately half way (~3350m). If the bergschrund is open, the ridge can be followed in its entitity. Route line nowadays follows the ridge edge (equipped), previous line more on the East side of the ridge is subject to stone fall danger. From the end of rocky ridge (1h) along snow ridge to shoulder (P 3598m) and via Scheekuppe (3921m, 2,5h from base of the climb) to main summit (0,5h from Schneekuppe) along airy connecting ridge (II, cornices). For descent abseil points from the start of the rocky ridge directly down to the glacier.
Descend along the same route. Rappel stations equipped with abseil rings.
- Hochtouren #15
- SAC 5 #404
- Flaig #501
NW Ridge via Agugliouls-saddle. G4; 1400m.
. AD-; 6-7h.
From Chamanna Coaz (2610m) to shoulder (3598). From there on along Eselsgrat to summit.
Durch die West-Südwestflanke (Westschlucht)
, D-; 55°. 1909-07-22First ascentJulius Frohmann, Christian Zippert & Niklaus Kohler, 1909-07-22.
. D; V. 1938-08-02First ascentRenato Chabod, Alfredo Corti, Emanuele Andreis, Nello Corti & Michele Rivero, 1938-08-02.
Sellagrat (SW ridge, Cresta Sella)
, D+/E5; IV; 6-8h. 1909-07-30First ascentG.L. & C.G.G. Steward, Ferdinand Summetmatter &M Alphonse Simond, 1909-07-30.
Worthwhile long ridge route from fuorcla de la Sella (Sella pass, 3269m). P3379 is turned on the south, then along firn couloir to the first ridge summit. Then along the ridge edge (IV and III) to the big tower. The tower is split by prominent crack on its west flank, on its right side along the bands to regain the ridge above the tower. Then over another tower and four smaller teeth to 50m high steep section that is climbed on the west flank (IV). Then along flat section over teeth (possibly turning them on the south side) to gain the easier upper ridge leading to the summit.
- SAC 5 #409
- Flaig #496
- Bündner Alpen #52
. D; 70°; 3h. 1881-07-14First ascentDamiano Marinelli, Hans Grass & Battista Pedranzini, 1881-07-14.
Badly stonefall endangered obvious snow/ice couloir in the middle of the rocky face leading to the col between main summit and Roseg Pitschen. Only feasible when the conditions are advantageous.
SE Flank via Piz Roseg Pitschen (SSE Ridge, SSOGrat auf dem Piz Roseg Pitschen)
, AD; III+; 800m, 4-6h to Roseg Pitschen. 1940-08-20First ascentAlfredo & Nello Corti & Martino Trippi, 1940-08-20.
The ridge falling from Roseg Pitschen between Marinelli Coulir and ENE Ridge leading to Porta Roseg. Adventurous climbing, on very poor rock. No fixed gear. According to SAC guidebook only AD, III+, felt more like IV-V D(+) and IV(+) (both more difficult and substantially more serious and committing that Kuffnerpfeiler of Piz Palü (IV D-, IV)). Also good luck at keeping to guide book time. Retreat would be difficult due to highly suspect anchors and stuck ropes.
Short and simple approach from bivacco Agostino Parravicini over the glacier. 0,5h.
Traverse from Roseg Pitschen to main summit, then along the Eselsgrat to Chamanna da Tschierva or via SW flank to Chamanna Boval. From Roseg Pitschen abseil 50m down to snowy ridge (at first sharp and corniced), then traverse it to gain the rocks of the main summit (III?, 1h from Roseg Pitschen). From the main summit descend along the normal route to Schneekuppe (II, 0,5h from the main summit) to shoulder and further down to valley. Descend to Tschioewrva side involves several rappes (gear in situ).
Südostflanke auf dem Piz Roseg Pitschen
, AD; III. 1904-08-09First ascentK. Berger, E. Franzelin & I. Hechenbleichner, 1904-08-09.
. PD; III; 3-3,5h.
via Vadretta di Scerscen Superiore.
. D-; 4-6h.
via Vadret da Tschierva.
Located between Porta Roseg (3522m) and Piz Roseg in west and Scerscenscharte (Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina, 3870m) and Piz Bernina in East.
- Piz Bernina West ridge
- Eisnase to Tschiervahütte
- SW flank to rifugi Marinelli-Bombardieri
Piz Scerscen, , First ascent
|Paul Güssfeld & Hans Grass via Eisnase|
Eisnase (Norwestsporn, NW Spur)
, III D-/E4-5; AI2/55-60°, III+; 700m/1400m, 5,5h from Tschiervahütte. 1877-09-13First ascentPaul Güssfeld & hans Grass, 1877-09-13.
Normal route. Steep section 60-100m, mostly on blank ice.
- Hochtouren #14
- SAC 5 #415
- Vanis #28
- Flaig #431
- Bündner Alpen #53
. AD+; IV; 6-8h.
When coming from the Italian side there's no need to go all the way to Porta Roseg. Most commonly climbed as part of the traverse over Scerscen to Bernina, however, such a traverse is more commonly started by climbing the Eisnase.
- SAC 5 #421
- Moran 1d
- Flaig #435
. AD; 5h.
Normal route. Normal route from the south. Stone fall danger.
- Piz Bernina (4049m)
- Piz Alv (3995m)
The only 4000er in Eastern Alps and one of the architecturally most beautiful mountains.Main climbing objective are the ridges, especially Biancograt is very famous and correspondingly popular.
- Spallagrat to rifugio Marco e Rosa and further along Foretzzagrat to Bernina valley (or Chamanna da Boval or Diavolezza) or val malenco (rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri)
- Biancograt to Tschiervahütte
Piz Bernina, , First ascent
|Johan Coaz, Jon Ragut Tscharner & Lorenz Ragut Tscharner. Coaz christened the mountain 'Piz Bernina'. Coaz was a topographer and both Ragut Tscharners his helpers. They climbed via Morteratsch glacier and Eastern Ridge. Though they were on a mission, they let their topographic instruments on the foot of the Eastern Ridge and continued to the top driven by the summit fever.|
- Piz Bernina - König der Ostalpen. Isbn: 9783905111453. AS Verlag, 1999.:
North ridge (Biancograt, Crast' Alva)
Long ridge running between Val Rosetg in West and Morteratsch glacier in East. The ridge starts at Fuorcla Prievlusa (3430m).
Biancograt (Crast Alva)
. III AD/AD+/G6/E4; 45-50°, III/III+; 600m 4h (ridge itself), 1450m, 7-8h from Tschierva Hut. 1876-08-12First ascentHenry Cordier, Thomas Middlemore, Johann Jaun & Kaspar Maurer to Piz Bianco, 1876-08-12.1878-01-01First ascentProf. Paul Güssfeldt, Hans Grass & Johann Gross to Piz Bernina, 1878.
A splendid snow ridge of Biancograt (North Ridge) is one of the most renowed climbs in the whole Alps. From Tschierva hut to Prievlus Pass, along the ridge to the summit and descent to Rifugio Marco e Rosa or directly to Diavolezza hut.
- Hochtouren #13
- SAC 5 #435
- Moran 1c
- Firn- und Eisklettern #65
- Seibert pp.32-34
- Flaig #423
- Bündner Alpen #55
There are several difficult and serious routes on the NE Flank, e.g. "Winkel" through entire hanging glacier. Only route "Durch die Gurgel" is reasonable.
Durch die Gurgel
. AD; II; 4-5h from Boval hut. 1890-07-18First ascentLudwig Normann-Neruda & Christian Klucker, 1890-07-18.
From Boval Hut to Sass dal Pos (3265m) and along East Ridge to the summit. Stone fall danger.
Winkel. D. 1931-07-27First ascentK. Schneider & F. Singer, 1931-07-27.
Spallagrat (Spalla del Bernina e cresta Sud)
. III PD/PD+; II, 35°; 1050m from Diavolezza Hut (1973m) to Marco e Rosa Hut (3597m), summit climb 500m, 1,5h. 1866-06-23First ascentF.F. Tuckett, F.A.Y. Brown, C. Almer & F. Andermatt, 1866-06-23.
Normal route. The route goes along South Ridge via Southern Foresummit Spalla (4020m). Predominantly glacier with long and complicated approach. I and II on rock (fixed gear).
- Hochtouren #12
- SAC 5 #430
- Moran 1a
- Seibert pp.32-34
- Flaig #421
. PD+; II; 500m, 1,5-2,5h from Marco e Rosa hut. 1850-09-13First ascentJohan Coaz, Joan Ragut & Lorenz Ragut Tscharner, 1850-09-13.
Upper part of the east ridge.
West Face (Westwand)
. D+/E4; 50-60°; 500m, 5-6h from Tschierva hut. 1930-08-18First ascentT.Graham Brown, Alexander Graven & Josef Knubel, 1930-08-18.
Direct ice route to col between Piz Alv and Piz Bernina.
- SAC 5 #432
- Vanis #27
- Flaig #425
- Bündner Alpen #56
Traverse Roseg - Scerscen - Bernina (Complete west ridge)
. TD-; 14-18h.
Eselsgrat to Piz Roseg (AD-). Descent along ENE ridge of Roseg to Porta Roseg (AD+). From there along West ridge to Piz Scerscen (AD+) and further to Serscensharte (Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina) and finally along west ridge to Piz Bernina (D+).
- SAC 5 #404, SAC 5 #406, SAC 5 #421, SAC 5 #432
- Moran 1d
- Flaig #433
- Scerscen - Bernina traverse. Michele Comi reports about a great alpine traverse, the one which crosses the summit of Monte Scerscen and traverses to the summit of Piz Bernina (Western Rhaetian Alps). By Planetmountain at Planet Mountain on 2012-07-30.
WSW ridge from Piz Scerscen (Traverse Scerscen - Bernina)
. D+/E5; III/AI2, III+; 14-18h. 3-4h (2-5h) from Piz Scerscen to Piz Bernina.
Piz Scerscen Eisnase (D-) - Piz Scerscen - Piz Scerscen East summit - Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina (Scerscenscharte, 3870m) - la Spalla - Bernina. Descent either along Spallagrat to Rifugio Marco e Rosa or along Biancograt to Tschiervahütte. From Piz Scerscen a mixed ridge (up to IV) with several short abseils. It is also possible to reach Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina directly from Tschierva glacier through Nordcouloir (D, SAC 5 #426) or from Rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri through Südcouloir (D, SAC 5 #425).
- SAC 5 #415, SAC 5 #421
- Moran 1d
- Flaig #433
- Bündner Alpen #53
- Piz Morteratsch (3751m)
- Piz Prievlus (3610m)
Easiest ascent is on the north side. West side (Roseg Valley) has routes between PD and AD. Routes are about 600m long, 1200m from Tschierva hut to the summit. Longest (600 - 700m) and most difficult routes (D - TD) are found on the east side (Morteratsch valley). 1300m from Boval hut (2495m) to the summit.
ENE Ridge (Crasta da la Spraunza)
, AD/D-/E3; 4a/III (mixed); 700m (ridge only), 6-7h. 1892-08-01First ascentM.Schintz & A. e J.Pollinger, 1892-08.
- SAC 5 #453
- Bündner Alpen #57
Normal Route from Boval Hut (NE Ridge)
. AD-; 40°, I; 4h from Boval Hut. 1858-09-11First ascentC.G.Brugger, P.Gensler & A.Kleingutti, 1858-09-11.
Normal route. Often combined with descent to Tschierva hut.
- Hochtouren #10
- SAC 5 #450
- Seibert pp.30-31
Piz Palü group
Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza3591
Crast Agüzza (Cresta Güzza)3869
Normal route via West ridge from rifugi Marco e Rosa (PD, 2h, SAC 5 #502). Several other routes at around AD.
Durch die Nordwestwand, mittlerer Teil. Ice, AD. 1904-07-02First ascentV. von Loyden, Martin Schocher & Anton Rauch, 1904-07-02.
Durch die Nordwestwand, rechter Teil. Ice, AD. 1924-10-17First ascentPierino Albareda & Umbreto Tinivella, 1924-10-17.
Swiss side is completely on firn (PD) while the Italian side is rocky and much steeper with routes between grades AD and ED.
Located on the main ridge between Piz Bernina (4049m), Crast' Agüzza (3869m), Piz Argient (3945m) and Fuorcla Zupo (3851m) in west and Passo Zupo (3840m), Bellavista (3922), Fuorcla Bellavista (3688m) and Piz Palü in east..The 2nd highest mountain in Bernina Alps. The name "Zupo" means "hidden", as the from the north side the mountain is hidden behind Bellavista (3922m). South and SE sides have big faces and pillars. Most worthwhile ascents are from Morteratsch side, especially traverse over Bellavista - Piz Zupo - Piz Argient (or in opposite directions).
. F+/PD/G3; 35, 35°; 1500m, 5,5h from the Boval hut (2495m), 1/2 - 3/4h from Passo Zupo (3840m).
Easiest route from Italy.
Traverse Piz Argient - Piz Zupó - Bellavista
. E2; 2c.
From Marco e Rosa Hut (3597m) via Fuorcla Zupo (3851m) and NE Ridgge to Piz Argient (3945m, PD, 1,5-2h from Fuorcla Zupo). From there traverse to Piz Zupó (45 min.), and further to Passo Zupo (3840m) and traverse of four summits of Bellavista : Main (west, 3922m), Eiskuppe (Wintergupfel, 3892m), 2nd summit (3893m) and East summit (3804m) and descent to Fuorcla Bellavista (3688) between Bellavista and Piz Palü. Descent to Diavolezza hut (2973m).
Easiest ascent from Morteratsch side. From Marinelli hut via Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza and col between Piz Argient and Piz Zupó (1,5-2h from Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza). Descent via Piz Argient (3945m) to Marco e Rosa hut (3597m).
- P. 3799 (3799m)
- P. 3888 (3888m)
- P. 3890 (3890m)
- Bellavista (3922m)
Four summits located between Piz Palü and Piz Zupò are collectively referred to as Bellavista. Most commonly climbed as past of the traverse of Piz Palü to rifugi Marco e Rosa (PD+) or along the route from either Boval-Hut or Berghaus Diavolezza to Rifugio Marco e Rosa via Fortezza ridge (Fortezza 3482m - Fuorcla Bellavista - Bellavista - Rif. Marco e Rosa, PD, II). However, easiest route to rifugi Marco e Rosa from the east goes via Bellavista terasse, glacier shelf below Bellavista summits.
Von Norden zu P. 3799. Ice, AD.
Von Norden zu P. 3888. Ice, AD.
Von Norden zu P. 3890. Ice, AD.
. PD+; 2,5h from Fuorcla Bellavista to P 3922. 1868-09-10First ascentEmil Burkhardt & Hans Grass, 1868-09-10.
- Seibert pp.34
- Flaig #365
- Hochtouren #7
- SAC 5 #526
- Piz Palü (3881m)
- Piz Palü (3906m)
- Piz Palü (3923m)
Easternmost of the high peaks of Bernina, located on the border between Italy and Switzerland..
Most famous glacier peak of Eastern Alps for several reasons. Piz Palü had a central role in the old movie "White Hell of Piz Palü".
800-900m high north face is unique and easy to recognize because of three pillars and four hanging glaciers. Cable car from Val Bernina to Diavolezza Hut (2973m, the best starting point for ascents on the north side) makes the approach significantly easier.
For descend, typically three options are used:
- normal route along East ridge to Diavolezza hut
- Traverse over main and West summits to Fuorcla Bellavista, then down the Fortezzagrat to Chamanna da Boval (and further to Bernina valley) or to Diavolezza hut or
- Traverse over main and West summits to Fuorcla Bellavista, then followed by the traverse via Bellavista terrace to Rifugio Marco e Rosa, from where it is possible to continue down to Italian side via rifugio Marinelli or climnb Piz Bernina and descent via Biancograt.
- Piz Palü - dreiklang in Fels und Eis. Isbn: 9783905111965. AS-Verlag, 2003.:
East ridge via East summit
. II-III PD/G3-4; 40°; 950m, 4,5h from Diavolezza Hut.
Normal route. Popular high alpine glacier climb starting from Diavolezza Hut (2973m). The glacier is heavily crevassed and route has exposed ridge that often has enormous cornices.
- Seibert pp.27-29
- SAC 5 #535
- Piz Palü. Trip Report September 05-06, 1998 by Hartmut Bielefeldt. Includes route description.
- Piz Palü. from AVS Ahrntal.
. II PD+/AD/E3; II, 35°; 6-8h.
Diavolezza Hut (2973m) - East Shoulder (758m, 3,5h) - Piz Palü east summit (151m, 0,5h) - Piz Palü central summit (50m, 0,5h) - Piz Palü west summit (60m, 0,75h from east summit) - Fuorcla Bellavista (3688m, 0,75h) - Fortezza (3369m) - Isla Persa (2720m) - Diavolezza Hut (2973m).
Descend follows the Fortezzagrat, falling towards north from Fuorcla Bellavista. The upper ridge is on firn, the lower part is rocky. Drop (II) is best rappelled. Further down along the ridge to Isla Persa (2720m). Further descend from here follows the west flank down to Morteratsch glacier and across it to rand moraine, then along the rand of the glacier towards north to Chamnanna da Boval or to the east down and across vadret Pers and up to Diavolezza hut.
Complete East Ridge (Variante über den O und NOgrat zum Ostgipfel)
. AD-/E3; II, 45°; 1430m, 5-6h from Diavolezza.
via Fuorcla Pers Palü to Shoulder (3729m) and along the normal route to East summit. Longer and more demanding alternative to normal route.
800-900m high north face is unique and easy to recognize because of three pillars and four hanging glaciers. Kuffner Pillar is the easiest and most popular route on the face. Besides the famous pillars, all four hanging glaciers have been climbed, but are not nearly as popular as the pillars (and all have substantial ice fall danger). The one between Kuffner and Bumiller pillar is the longest and steepest.
Firnsporn zwischen Ostpfeiler und Normalroute. Ice, D; 5-6h from Diavolezza. 1991-08-23First ascentAntonio da Rios, Edoardo Fioretti, Massimo Fioretti & Stegano Petterle, 1991-08-23.
Nordöstliche Eiswand des Ostpfeilers. Ice, D; 400m, 5-6h from Diavolezza. 1963-09-29First ascentAdelio Bedetti, Riccardo Sporesini & Marco Zappa, 1963-09-29.
Kuffner Pillar (Kuffnerpfeiler)
, IV D-/E4; IV-, AI1°/50°; 580m, 3-5h. 1899-08-22First ascentAlexander Burgener, Martin Schocher & Moritz Von Kuffner, 1899-08-22.
Classic. North Spur of East Peak. Most popular route on north face and the easiest of three pillars. Lower part rocky on solid rock, upper third snow/ice. Some bolts exist, slings and nuts useful. The route follows more or less the ridge itself, possibly passing steep sections on the left side to gain the exposed firn/ice section. Along the ridge to summit ridge. Short sections of IV, mostly III.
- Hochtouren #8
- Flaig #340
- Bündner Alpen #59
Gletschercouloir zwischen dem mittleren und östlichen Pfeiler. Ice, 700m. 1931-05-31First ascentOtto Fentl & Willy Dobiasch, 1931-05-31.
Bumiller Pillar (Bumillerpfeiler)
, IV TD-/TD; V (mostly III and IV), AI4-/60-90 (depending on the condition of the serac)°; 750m, 6-8h. 1887-01-01First ascentBumiller, Gross, Schnitzler & Schocher, 1887.
Classic. Classic mixed climb on the north spur of central peak, the most difficult of three pillars. Usually climbed during the summer with rock shoes.
- Hochtouren #9
- Firn- und Eisklettern #64
- Flaig #342
Westliche Hängegletscher. Ice, TD; 600-700m, 6-8h from Diavolezza. 1930-09-02First ascentFrancois Devantay, Simon Rähmi & Johannes Götte, 1930-09-02.
Nordwand des westlichen Gipfels. Ice, TD-; 700m, 6-8h from Diavolezza. 1939-08-02First ascentIsacco dell’Avo & Plinio Corti, 1939-08-02.
Via Gianni Comino. Ice, IV TD-; M4 WI3; 700m, 6-8h from Diavolezza. 1980-04-06First ascentNorberto Riva & Bewnigno Balatti, 1980-04-06.
Spinas Pillar (Spinaspfeiler)
. D-; V- (mostly IV and III); 650m. 6-9h. 1899-07-31First ascentBurton-Alexander, Grass & Zippert, 1899-07-31.
North Spur of West Peak.
Nordwestwand des westlichen Gipfels. Ice, IV D/TD; WI2; 500m, 5-6h from Diavolezza. 1939-07-31First ascentIsacco dell’Avo, Plinio Corti & Nello Corti, 1939-07-31.
Ridge falling towards north from Fuorcla Bellavista.
. PD; II; 4-4,5h.
The upper ridge is on firn, the lower part is rocky. Drop (II) is best rappelled. Further down along the ridge to Isla Persa (2720m). Further descend from here follows the west flank down to Morteratsch glacier and across it to rand moraine, then along the rand of the glacier towards north to Chamnanna da Boval or to the east down and across vadret Pers and up to Diavolezza hut.
Located to the east of Piz Palü
. II AD; 4a; 3,5-4,5h. 1868-09-13First ascentEmil Burkhardt & Hans Grass, 1868-09-13.
from Piz Arlas.
SW and SE ridges both II (PD - AD-). SW ridge is gained at fuorcla Pers Palü (3464m) which can be gained from Vadret Pers by following the normal route of Piz Palü, then gaining to col.
From Vadret Pers along the normal route of Piz Palü. Eisnase is moderate classic. Other routes on the face are significantly more difficult and are seldom in condition during the summer season.
Nordwestsporn (Eisnase, North face)
, AD/E3; III, 45-50°; 575m, 3h. 1916-08-23First ascentH. Frich, Christian Zippert & Hans Carper, 1916-08-23.
Ice climb with steep section at Eisnase. Descent down to Fuorcla Pers Palü and further to Diavolezza. Alternatively, can be combined with the ascent of Piz Palü along the east ridge.
- Hochtouren #5
- SAC 5 #546, #546a
- Flaig #423
- Bündner Alpen #62
Gabarrou (Couloir NW)
. D+; IV, III WI4/70-75°; 600m. 1985-06-19First ascentPatrick Gabarrou, 1985-06-19.
Left couloir arm between Eisnase and right arm of the couloir.
Goulotte Joos (Couloir NW, Durch die Rinne in der Westnordwestflanke)
. TD/ED-; III WI5+/70°, IV; 6-7h from Diavolezza. 1974-12-22First ascentMario Mevio & Giuseppe Motti, 1974-12-22.
Bregaglia & Disgrazia
Pizzo Porcellizzo - Ligoncio - Cime del Calvo
Badiletto (Punta Sant Anna)317140
via Mauri (SSE-kante)
, 5c+ (5b+ obl.); 400m.
Not particularly important peak per se, but located pretty close to rifugio Omio and forming impressive looking needle.
, 3b; 120m, 1h.
Normal route. Equipped for rappel.
via Ho Chi Minh
, 4b/IV+; 180m.
via Virgilio Fiorelli (Ostkante)
, 4c/V; 200m.
Contains some old pitons and wood chocks. Start is slabby at first, then grassy. Central part starting from the shelf offers fine climbing on good rock.
- Pizzo dell'Oro Sett. (2658m)
- Pizzo dell'Oro Mer. (2695m)
Punta della Sfinge2802
Popular climbing peak easily accessible from valle de l'Oro. Three main faces, NE face with routes around IV-V, SE face with routes around VI and NW face with very difficult routes.
Relatively short wall with several popular climbs. Very good rock, Abseils equipped along the Bramani route.
- Rifugio Omio (2100m), 1,5h (SAC 4 #938) along the path towards Passo Ligoncio.
, III AD+; 4a/III/IV; 250m/700m. 1931-08-30First ascentV. Bramani, L. Binaghi, G. Alessio & G. Forgiarini, 1931-08-30.
Classic. Starts together with Spigolo Fiorelli, then climbs directly to the summit.
Spigolo Fiorelli (Crippa, via Fiorelli, NNE edge)
, III D+; 4b/IV/V; 270m, 5 pitches. 1954-10-06First ascentC. Crippa & Giulio Fiorelli, 1954-10-06.
Almost 400 high face with number of difficult routes of which via del Peder is the best known (5c+,A0, 330m).
Via dei Morbegnesi
, 6b/5b,A1; 250m. 1964-08-28First ascentF. Botta, F. Bottni, G. dell'Ora, A. Passerini & L. Romegalli, 1964-08-28.
Classic. Popular route through dihedrals and cracks.
Cime del Calvo - Monte Spluga
Cime delle Merdarola - Monte Pesconfio
Cime di Gaiazzo - Sasso Manduino
Sciora - Cacciabella - Spazzacaldeira
il Gallo - Pizzo Spazzacaldera
, 5c+,A0 (5c obl.); 400m.
, 5c+ (5obl.)/5.9; 20m.
Classic. Very airy tooth, much beloved climbing destination. Shortest approach is the Schluch route (3a, SAC 4 #606) but also NE Ridge is very popular approach.
- SAC 4 #608
- Plaisir Sud #54.4'
, 4c E3 (4b obl.).
Classic. Interesting climbing on excellent rock.
- SAC 4 #604
- Plaisir Sud #54.4
There are host routes on 3km wide SE flank with very short approach from the dam starting with the normal route (2a, SAC 4 #601).
Passo Cacciabella Sud
Connection beteeen Bondasca (Capanna di Sciora) and Albigna valleys.
Couloir down from col 2860 located immediately to the left of the route (between Torre Innominata and Punta Innominata) is stone fall endangered. Therefore it may be better to descent either by on foot via Pass Cacciabella or rappelling down route "Hofmeister Jubiläum".
West ridge (Westkante)
West ridge (Westkante, Spigolo WNW)
, 5a (4c obl.)/V+; 450m, 9 pitches. 3,5h. 1949-08-08First ascentUeli Gantenbei & co., 1949-08-08.
Classic. Popular route on excellent rock that follows mostly immediately on the prominent ridge. Partially equipped.
- Plaisir Sud 55.1
- Mellor Sciora pp.21
- SAC 4 #718.1
, 6c (6b+ obl.)/VII; 380m, 9 pitches. 1998-07-05First ascentGuido Lisignoli & Bernhardt Falett, 1998-07-05.
Equipped for rappel descent.
- Plaisir Sud 55.2
- Mellor Sciora pp.23
- SAC 4 #718.3
- Gaddi 43c
Via di Mezzo
, 6b,A0 (6a obl.)/VII-,A1; 270m, 10 pitches.
- Plaisir Sud 55.3
- Mellor Sciora pp.22
- SAC 4 #718.4
- Gaddi 43b
, 7a/VIII+; 270m, 6 pitches.
Leads to the col between Torre Innominata and Scioreta, to the right of Torre Innominata.
- Mellor Sciora pp.23
- SAC 4 #718.5
- Gaddi 43a
Colle delle Scioretta3000
From capanna di Sciora via Scioretta couloir.
Sciora Dafora (Sciora di Fuori)3169
Northernmost of four main peaks of Sciora-group. North summit is a bit higher than the south summit. NW ridge (Kuorikante) is very prominent and one of the most striking climbs in Bregaglia.
. AD; 2a; 5h.
From Capanna di Sciora via Scioretta couloir and colle della Scioretta. Once normal route, not recommended any more due to stone fall danger.
. 3a; 5h.
Normal route. Nuce climbing on good rock.
Fuorikante (NW-Kante, Spigolo NW)
, TD+; 5c,A1+/6b/VII+; 550m, 25 pitches, 6-8h. 1933-09-17First ascentK. Simons & W. Weippert, 1933-09-17.
Classic. Classic route on a prominent ridge.
- SAC 4 #731
- Mellor Sciora pp.28
- Gaddi 42a
, 7+/6,A1; 22 pitches, 10-11h.
More direct (and more difficult) alternative to classic Fuorikante.
- Mellor Sciora pp.27
- SAC 4 #732
- Gaddi 42aa
Best descent to NW side is to abseil down the route (tedious).
, D+/TD-; 5c+ (5b obl. E4)/VI-(V+ obl.); 900m, 23 pitches, 6-8h. Abseil descent 3-4h. 1935-08-16First ascentE. Bozzdi-Parasacchi & V. Bramani, 1935-08-16.
Classic. Superb long classic. One of the longest ridge climbs in Bregaglia, both longer and more difficult than North ridge of Piz Badile. Other than the crux overhang the climbing is moderate. Routefinding is easy. Equipped for rappel descent. Also other gear exist on the route, but additional protection needed.
- SAC 4 #739
- Plaisir Sud 55.4
- Mellor Sciora pp.32
- Gaddi 41a
550m high steep and compact face.
North West Face
, ED2; 5b,A2/V,A2/3; 550m, 15 pitches, 10-16h.
- Mellor Sciora pp.31
- SAC 4 #740
Forcola di Sciora3080
Deepest point between Punta Pioda and Ago di Sciora.
, AD+; 4h.
Couloir between Piodakante and NW ridge of Ago di Sciora.
Ago di Sciora3205
Steep rock pinnacle with several worthwhile routes.
. 4a; 120m, 1,5h.
East flank and South face
, D/E3; 4c/IV-; 300m, 6h.
- SAC 4 #743
- Bündner Alpen #35
Scarabelli (SE Wand & E-Kante)
. 5c+,A1; 270m, 5-6h.
. 4a; 5h.
Previous normal route, nowadays seldom climbed. Joins East flank & South face route on Bocchetta del Ago.
North West Ridge (Westgrat, oberste aufschwung)
, AD+/D; 4a/V/5.7; 800m, 3-4h, 6h from Capanna di Sciora. 1923-07-01First ascentRisch, 1923-07-01.
Classic. Rock not always very good.
, 5b (5a obl.); 250m, 6 pitches.
Central part of NW ridge.
- SAC 4 #745.2
- Plaisir Sud 55.5
- Mellor Sciora pp.34
- Gaddi 40a
Teatro di Dimitri
, 5c+,A0/6b; 150m, 6 pitches.
Lowets part of NW ridge.
- Mellor Sciora pp.33
- SAC 4 #745.1
Spigolo Ovest Integrale (West Ridge Integrale)
, 5c+,A0/6a; 800m.
Combination of all three parts of NW ridge (Dietro di Dimitri, Kasperpfeiler, Upper NW Ridge.
Bocchetta del Ago3100
Climbed along the normal route of Punta Sciora from Albigna side.
Sciora Dadent (Sciora di Dentro)3275
The highest and southernmost peak in Scioragroup. Although there are several climbing routes not very important as a climbing goal.
via Vadrec da la Bondasca & SW flank
. AD; 5h.
Broad snowy saddle between Sciora Dadent and Cima delle Bondasca.
Pizzo Badile - Pizzo Cengalo
14-17 pitches long difficult rock climbs.
Piz Badile (Pizzo Badile)46.2947229.5861113308
Switzerland, Bregaglia. Probably the most famous mountain in Bregaglia. Almost 1000m high north side facing val Bondasca is famous climbing objective. It is split in two by long North Ridge, possibly the most famous climb from Bondasca valley. To its left are ENE and NE faces, to its right NW face. South face is not as high, still roughly 500m high face sports several well known routes.
Piz Badile, South Face, First ascent
|South Face: W.A.B. Coolidge, Francois & Henri Devouassoud|
Piz Badile, North Ridge, First ascent
|North Ridge: Walter Risch & Alfred Zürcher|
Piz Badile, Cassin Route, First ascent
|Cassin Route: Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Esposito, Vittorio Ratti, Mario Molteni & Giuseppe Valsecchi|
Piz Badile, Jumar Iscariota, First ascent
|Jumar Iscariota: T. & O. Fazzini & L. Gianola|
Piz Badile, Neverland, First ascent
|Neverland: Sonja Brambati, Adriano Carnati & Paolo Vitali|
Piz Badile, Another Day in Paradise, First ascent
|Another Day in Paradise: B. & K. Müller, H. Zgraggen|
Piz Badile, Via Mauri, First ascent
|Via Mauri: C.Mauri, G.Ferrari & G.Fiorelli|
. II PD; 3b/III; 500m. 1867-07-26First ascentW.A.B. Coolidge, Francois & Henri Devouassoud, 1867-07-26.
via Molteni (SE Face, 1st Pillar)
. D+; 5b/V+; 350m, 12-14 pitches, 6h.
One of the most interesting climbs from rifugio Gianetti. Most climbed route on the face.
Via Mauri (SSE Ridge). V+; 400m. 1995-01-01First ascentC.Mauri, G.Ferrari & G.Fiorelli, 1995.
via Marimonti (ESE ridge)
. AD+/D; 4c/IV/5.5.
Continuation of Punta Sertori via Marimonti.
- SAC 4 #856, #880
- Gaddi 26i
. 4c/IV/V; 650m.
Once a classic but not recommended any more due to conditions in Klucker couloir along the approach.
via Ringo Star
. 5c+/VI; 800m, 17 pitches, 8-10h.
Most popular route on the face.
via Gran Diedro (Grosse Verschneidung)
. 5c+,A1/VI,A1; 550m, 15 pitches.
Fine climbing on excellent rock.
. 6a/VI/VI+; 580m, 16 pitches, 8-10h.
. 6a/VI; 570m, 12 pitches, 10-12h.
Jumar Iscariota (Pilastro a goccia, Tropfenpfeiler)
. ABO-; 6c,A1/VII+,A1 (VII obl.); 450m, 11 pitches, 10-12h. 1986-08-05First ascentT. & O. Fazzini & L. Gianola, 1986-08-05.
Difficult to protect.
- SAC 4 #864.4
- Mellor Sciora pp.68
- Gaddi 37g
North Ridge (Nordkante)
, III AD+/D-/Rus 4A/E4; 5a+ E4 (mostly 4b)/IV+ (mostly III and IV)/5.7; 800m height gain, 1250m climbing with 18-25 pitches, 8-10h. Round trip from Bondo typically 3 days. 1923-08-04First ascentWalter Risch & Alfred Zürcher, 1923-08-04.
Classic. Classic long rock climb, reputably one of the finest of the grade in the Alps. Descent via Gianetti-Hütte (2536m, 3h) to San Martino in Val Masino.
- SAC 4 #866
- Plaisir Sud 56.1
- Mellor Sciora pp.61
- Gaddi 37i
- Bündner Alpen #39
Cassin Route (via Cassin, NE Face)
, IV TD/nccs IV 5.9/Rus 5B/E5; VI+/V,A0/5c+/6a/5b,A0/5.10a-b; 800m, 22 pitches, 6-8h for the ridge, further 1-1,5h to the summit (5 pitches). 1937-07-16First ascentRiccardo Cassin, Luigi Esposito, Vittorio Ratti, Mario Molteni & Giuseppe Valsecchi, 1937-07-16.
Classic. Long, classic alpine rock climb. Stands equipped.
- SAC 4 #868
- Plaisir Sud 56.3
- Mellor Sciora pp.52
- Gaddi 37o
- Bündner Alpen #40
Another Day in Paradise
, TD+; 6a,A0/7a/VI,A0/VII; 700m, 22 pitches, 6-8h. 1991-07-20First ascentB. & K. Müller, H. Zgraggen, 1991-07-20.
- Plaisir Sud #56.2
- Mellor Sciora pp.58
- Gaddi 37n
- SAC 4 #867.4
, TD+; 5c/VI-; 420m, 7h. 1986-08-16First ascentSonja Brambati, Adriano Carnati & Paolo Vitali, 1986-08-16.
, ED-; 6a,A1/VI+,A1/VII; 535m, 9h.
, ED2; 6b,A1; 500m, 13 pitches, 8-10h.
British route (via degli Inglesi)
, 6a,A2/VI,A2/VIII-; 650m, 10-12h.
, 7a/VIII; 400+200m.
Typically climbed from the south side following via Marimonti, then continuing to Piz Badile along its ESE ridge.
. AD+/D; 4c/IV+/5.5; 450m, 12 pitches. 1923-08-12First ascentP. Cortini & P. Marimonti, 1923-08-12.
Often combined with ascent of Piz Badile ESE ridge (3a, SAC 4 #880).
Colle del Cengalo3057
Col between Piz Cengalo and Punta Sertori.
, TD; 90/55°; 400m, 5-6h.
- Piz Cengalo (3370m)
- Punta Angela (3215m)
- Punta 3307 (Punta anticima orientale del Pizzo Cengalo)
Masino-Disgrazia groupSecond highest peak in Masino-Disgrazia group. Italian (South) side has ice cap and three fine ridges. 1300m high North Wall faces Bregaglia valley. SE Wall has many routes and variations starting at AD+.
Piz Cengalo, North Face, First ascent
|North Face: Borghese, Schnitzler & Schocher|
Piz Cengalo, Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest, First ascent
|Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest: Aldo Bonacossa & A. Polvara|
Piz Cengalo, NW Pillar, First ascent
|NW Pillar: F. Gaiser & B. Lehmann|
Piz Cengalo, ESE Face, First ascent
|ESE Face: Luca Maspes & Christiano Perlin|
. PD; 2c; 3,5h.
Normal route. Snow and rock. Via Colle del Cengalo.
Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest (via Bonacossa, South Ridge, SSE-Wand)
. D; 4a; 4h. 1921-10-17First ascentAldo Bonacossa & A. Polvara, 1921-10-17.
Via Bonacossa avoids the main difficulties of "via Vinci".
Punta Angela, SE Face
Punta Angela (3215m) is a tower along the long South ridge of Piz Cen gale. Numerous routes lead to Punta and it is regularly climbed as independent goal.
ESE Face (Dalai Lama)
. 6b/VII; 460m, 12 pitches. 1992-07-24First ascentLuca Maspes & Christiano Perlin, 1992-07-24.
Punta Angela, West side
Punta Angela (3215m) is a tower along the long South ridge of Piz Cen gale. Numerous routes lead to Punta and it is regularly climbed as independent goal.
via Vinci (Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest, South Ridge)
. TD; 6a- (5c+ obl. E4)/V+/VI; 400m, 13 pitches.
- SAC 4 #835
- Plaisir Sud 57.11
- Gaddi 29a
Couloir located to the left of NW ridge have been climbed. Both are steep ice routes that are only feasible during the winter because of rock fall.
NW Pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann, Cengalopfeiler)
, TD/E5; 6-,A0/V+; 950m, 29 pitches, 6-8h. 1939-07-15First ascentF. Gaiser & B. Lehmann, 1939-07-15.
Classic. Tremendous classic, considered one of the top 5 routes in Bregaglia. The only regularly climbed route on the north face. 700m rock face followed by the ridge to the summit. Good protection with friends and nuts.
- SAC 4 #827
- Mellor Sciora pp.41
- Gaddi 38a
- Bündner Alpen #38
There are several routes on North and NE faces. All are stone fall endangered and best climbed only during the winter. The routes are roughly 1000m high and sport difficulty between TD and ED.
. TD/TD-; 4a, 50°; 1200m but more than 2000m of climbing. 1897-07-29First ascentBorghese, Schnitzler & Schocher, 1897-07-29.
The easiest route on the face.
Colle dei Gemelli3106
, TD; 45-55°; 700m, 7h.
Piz Gemelli (Pizzi Gemelli)3262
- Punta SE (3262m)
- Punta NW (3225m)
- Bügeleisen (Ferro da Stiro) (2680m)
Twin summited peak located to the east of Piz Cengalo. The most interesting feature to climbers is NW ridge of Punta NW. Ferro da Stiro (Bügeleisen) is a peak on the ridge (2680m) that is regularly climbed as a separate goal along the classic Bügeleisen route.
NW Ridge of Punta NW (Gemellikante)
Long ridge leading via Ferro da Stiro to Punta NW (3225m). Continuation to Pizzi Gemelli from Ferro da Stiro is easier but more alpine than the Bügeleisen route. Bügeleisen (2680m) is a foresummit along the NW ridge of Piz Gemelli. Regularly climbed as a separate goal, but it is possible to continue to Pizzi Gemelli along the NW ridge (Gemellikante). Bügeleisen is by far the most popular route, but there are few more difficult alternatives.
Bügeleisen (Ferro da Stiro, Flatiron)
, II TD-; 5a,A1/5b/V+; 400m, 9-12 pitches, 3-6h. 1935-07-28First ascentH. Frei & J. Weiss, 1935-07-28.
- SAC 4 #815.2
- Plaisir Sud 55.6
- Mellor Sciora pp.37
- Gaddi 39a
NW ridge (Gemellikante)
. 5c+,A0, mostly 5a; 4h from Ferro da Stiro. 1934-08-12First ascentG. Hentschel & H. Mathies, 1934-08-12.
Complete Gemellikante via Bügeleisen to Punta NW. originally first route in the Alps to be graded VI, however later downgraded to V+.
- SAC 4 #816
- Mellor Sciora pp.37
Cuore di Ferro (Iron Heart)
, 6b/c/VII+/VIII-; 530m, 14 pitches.
- Mellor Sciora pp.36
- SAC 4 #815.6
- Gaddi 39c
, 6a+,A1; 390mm, 7 pitches, 7-8h.
- Mellor Sciora pp.36
- SAC 4 #815.5
Cima del Passo di Bondo3220
Passo di Bondo3168
Pass between val Bondasca and valle Porcellizzo. Bivacco Tita Roncan is located immediately to the south of the pass.
Pizzi del Ferro - Monte di Zocca
Pizzi del Ferro
- Pizzi del Ferro Occidentale (3267m)
- Passo del Ferro (3200m)
- Cima della Bondasca (Pizzi del ferro Centrale) (3287m)
- Bochetta del Torrione (3170m)
- Torrione del Ferro (3235m)
- Bochetta Ferro-Albigna (3053m)
- Pizzo Ferro Orientale (3199m)
Pizzi del Ferro consists of several summits on Bregaglia main chain. The peaks are high in Bregaglian standards but are not particularly famous among the climbers. Normal routes on all summits are non-technical (F-PD). Peaks are ascended mostly from the Italian side, especially from bivacco Molteni-Valsecchi, rifugio Gianetti or rifugio Allievi-Bonacossa.
Pizzi del Ferro Occidentale3267
Cima della Bondasca (Pizzi del ferro Centrale)3287
- Cima della Bondasca (Pizzi del ferro Centrale) (3287m)
- Pizzi del ferro Centrale, vetta orientale (3260m)
Bochetta del Torrione3170
Pizzo Ferro Orientale3199
Cima di Zocca
- Cima di Zocca (Pizzo di Zocca) (3174m)
- Torrione Est (Torrione Est della Cima di Zocca, Torrione di Zocca) (3010m)
Three main ridges:
- WSW ridge from colle Masino via Bochetta di Zocca and Torrione di Zocca
- NE ridge from passo di Zocca
- ESE ridge with Torrione Est
Cima di Zocca (Pizzo di Zocca)3174
. D-/E4; 3c, 45.
WSW ridge. II/III; 5h.
Torrione Est (Torrione Est della Cima di Zocca, Torrione di Zocca)3010
Side summit of Cima di Zocca located on ESE ridge of Cima di Zocca. Not to be mixed with Torrione di Zocca (3080m), located between Colle Masino and Bochetta di Zocca.
via Parravicini (por lo spigolo SE)
. TD-; VI; 250m, 8 pitches. 1937-09-05First ascentG. Cazzagina, M. dell'Oro & U. Tizzani, 1937-09-05.
Passo di Zocca2746
Connection between Capanna da l'Albigna and rifugio Allievi-Bonacossa.
Albigna - Forno
Unspectacular bumb from the north, but the south side is a different matter completely. Huge bastion of granite with several interesting climbs. Located close to rifugio Allievi-Bonacossa and corresponginly popular. Spigolo Gervasutti is one of the better known classics of the area.
Spigolo Gervasutti (South arete)
, IV TD+; 5c (5b obl. E3)/VI+ (obl. V+)/5.10b; 600m, 17-20 pitches, 6-7h. 1934-03-16First ascentGiusto Gervasutti & C. Negri, 1934-03-16.
Classic. Classic rock climb. The route can be escaped above the first or before the second finger. Partially equipped.
- SAC 4 #476
- Plaisir Sud 58.1
- Gaddi 55b
E & SE face
, 6b+ (6a+ obl.); 600m, 17 pitches.
- Plaisir Sud 58.2
- Gaddi 55c
Cima di Castello3386
Four ridges join at Cima di Castello:
Pizzi Torrone - Monte Sissone
- Punta Rasica (3305m)
- North summit (3261m)
The summit is sharp and thin with three main ridges:
- North ridge from colle del Castello
- SE ridge from colle Rasica
- SW ridge via SW foresummit
. D; 4c; 2h from the col, 5h from the hut.
3a from the col.
- SAC 4 #261 (to col), #263
. D+; 4b/VI+; 1000m, 6h from rifugio Allievi. 1935-07-14First ascentAldo Bonacossa, E. Bozzoli-Parasacchi, V. Bramani & C. Negri, 1935-07-14.
Varied and interesting climbing on excellent rock along SW ridge. Most climbed route on the mountain.
, 6b+ (6a+ obl.)/VII (VI+ obl.); 450m, 11 pitches.
Joins with Bramani on SW foresummit. Considered to be one of the finest routes in Bregaglia.
- Plaisir Sud 58.3
- Gaddi 58c
Deepest point on the ridge joining Punta Rasica and Torrone Occidentale. Acts as a starting point of SE ridge of Punta Rasica.
. AD; 4h.
- Occidentale (3349m)
- Centrale (3290m)
- Orientale (3333m)
Fine but seldom climbed mountain of rock and ice. Difficult mixed routes on north side.
Cantun - Piz Bacun
Punta da l'Albigna2825
Located on a side branch, on the east side of southern end of Lägh da l'Albigna.
, 5a (4c obl.); 600m.
, 4b (4a obl.); 600m.
, 4c-5c (5b obl.); 600m.
, 5c+ (5c obl.); 250.
Located on a side branch, on the east side of northern end of Lägh da l'Albigna.
, 3c-4a (3c obl.); 280m.
, AD+; IV; 2400m, 4h.
Cima di Rosso3366
Direkte Nordwand (North face)
, D-; 55-60°, III-; 520m, 4,5h. 1930-01-01First ascentW. Amstutz & A. Bonacossa, 1930.
- Vanis #30
- Seibert pp.35-37
- Hochtouren #4
- SAC 4 #147
Provides exceptionally good view due to its location at the head of Forno valley, Val di Mello and Val Malenco. Climbed often from Fornohütte. Forms geographical joining point of Bregaglia and Disgrazia groups. Also located en route from capanna di Forno to rifugio Ponti and Monte Disgrazia.
Unnamed summit 200m to the east of P. 3295 on the NE ridge of Monte Disgrazia.
, D-; 4a/IV+; 350m. 1920-07-21First ascentAlfredo Corti & Giuseppe Nino Dell'Andrino, 1920-07-21.
Classic rock route. Exceptionally fine combined with Corda Molle of Monte Disgrazia by spending the night at bivacco Oggioni.
Side summit of Monte Disgrazia on its NW ridge.
- East Summit (3648m)
- Central Summit (3650m)
- Main Summit (3678m)
Highest peak of Disgrazia-Bregaglia group. Rises completely isolated and is much snowier that other mountains of the range. The name means "the mountain of misfortune".
Four main ridges
- NW ridge via Monte Pioda to Passo di Mello
- SSW ridge via Monte di Corno Rosso to Gasso di Corno Grosso
- SE ridge to OPasso Cassandra
- NE ridge (Corda Molla)
Easiest descent is the normal route to rifugio Ponti. Descent the val Malenco is more difficult and follows more or less along Corda Molla (multiple abseils) to rifugio Porro. Alternative (but very long) descend follows the normal route at first, then climbs to Passo di Mello and finally to Chiareggio.
Monte Disgrazia, , First ascent
L.Stephen, E.Kennedy, T.Cox & A.Anderegg
North Face Direct
. TD; 60°; 600m, 4-6h. 1934-01-01First ascentAlbertini & Schenatti, 1934.
Spigolo Inglese (North Face)
, D; 55°; 500m. 1910-08-05First ascentLing & Raeburn, 1910-08-05.1934-01-01First ascentAlbertini & Schenatti, 1934.
Pure ice up to 55° (200m, 50°/500m).
Preda Rossa (NW Ridge)
. PD+/AD/G4; III, mostly II and I, 45°; 1100m, 4-5h from the hut.
Long and partially exposed ridge. From Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2559m) via Sella di Pioda (3387m) to NW Ridge and along it to summit.
- Seibert pp.37-39
- SAC 4 #175
- Hochtouren #1
, II AD; II AD/50°, II; 400m/1100m, 4-7h from the hut.
Schenatti couloir follows the Normal route close to Sella di Pioda, then climbs the 400m ice couloir (50°) to NW Ridge and along it to summit.
NW Ridge from Passo di Mello
Very long ridge climb starting from Passo di Mello (2991m) and climbing via Punta Pioda (NW Ridge, 3a, 3h) and Sella di Pioda (3387m) to Monte Disgrazia. From Sella di Pioda along the normal route.
Corno Grosso grat (SSW ridge)
Corno Grosso grat (SSW ridge)
. 3a; 6h. 1934-01-01First ascentAlbertini & Schenatti, 1934.
Passo di Corno Grosso (2836m) - Cima di Corno Grossa (3180m) - P 3250 - Monte Disgrazia. Has to be started from Rifugio Cesare Ponti as Rifugio Desio is destroyed.
Corda Molla (NNE Ridge)
. III AD+/E4; 3a, III AD/45°; 550m from Bivacco Oggioni. 1914-08-01First ascentB.De Ferrari & Ignazio Dell'Andrino, 1914-08.
- SAC 4 #179
- Bündner Alpen #31
SW Ridge via Baroni
SAC 4 #186
Direttissima (South Face?)
SW Ridge from Rifugio Desio