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Bernina & Bregaglia

Bernina

Bernina >

Located furthest to the west. The highest peaks of the group are Piz Tremoggia (3441m) and Pizzo Malenco (3438m). The area is well suited for hiking and trekking but not very popular among the climbers.

Bernina >

Corvatsch group. Corvatsch group is the S-N chain between Engadin valley in the west and Val Roseg in the east. Highest peaks are Piz Corvatsch (3451m) and Piz Murtel (3433m). Not very popular amongn the climbers but well suited for trekking.

Bernina >

Located in the SW and mainly accessed from val Malenco in Italy, although access is also possible from Val Roseg. Highest peaks rose to above 3500m. SAC guidebooks lists lots of climbs but none of them are very famous. The area sports several huts and bivouac shelters.

Bernina >

Bernina group forms a horseshoe around vadret da Tschierva. The group contains the the section of the Bernina main chain between Piz Roseg and Piz Bernina and a long side branch running to the north from Piz Bernina separating Roseg valley in East and Morteratsch valley in East.

Westernmost of the big peaks with three major ridges: NE ridge to Porta da Roseg, NW Ridge (Eselsgrat) and SW Ridge (Sellagrat) to fuorcla de la Sella. Classic ascent follows W Flank but Eselsgrat (North ridge) is nowadays considered to be the normal route. All other routes are long and more difficult (Sellagrat (SW Ridge) and East Ridge via kleine Roseg are especially worthwhile). NE face is classic ice face but nowadays the conditions are not always favorable. Eselsgrat to Tschiervahütte SW flank to Chamanna Coaz

  • Main summit (3937m) (Google maps).
  • NW summit (Schneekuppe, Anticima NW) (3920m)
  • Piccolo Roseg (Kleiner Roseg, Roseg Pitschen) (3868m)
NE Ridge
  • Porta Roseg
ENE Ridge. AD+; III-IV; 5h from Porta Roseg. E.J. Garwood, C.C. Branch, Martin Shocher & Christian Zippert, 1892-08-15.
From Porta Roseg via Roseg Pitschen to the summit. Climbed in descent when traversing over the whole chain from Roseg to Bernina.

SAC 5 #406; Flaig #497

Nordostwand (NE face, Parete nord)
NE face is classic ice face but nowadays the conditions are not always favorable. There are several lines on the face ranging between D and TD, the most feasible one depends heavily on the conditions. Most routes end at Schneekuppe and involve mixed rock as well as alpine ice.
  • Tschiervahütte, From the hut along rand moraine (as for Biancograt) until it is possible to gain the glacier (~2750m, 20min). Across the glacier towards SW passing below rock island 2907 on its north side to gain the moraine continuation of Piz Umur. Along the moraine to the base of Piz Umur NW ridge, then to the right of Piz Umur on obere Vadret da Tschierva (Roseg Kessel) at 2700m (1h from the hut). As soon as possible (~3100m) to glacier and across it in large bow to gain the foot of the face (2,5h from Tschiervahütte)., 2,5h from Tschiervahütte
Nordostwand (NE face). Ice/mixed, D+; 55°, III; 5,5-8,5h, 670m/1350m from Tschiervahütte (2583m). Christian Klucker & Ludwig Norman-Neruda, 1890-06-16.
Classic. Classic route on the face

Hochtouren #16; SAC 5 #405; Firn- und Eisklettern #66; Vanis #29; Flaig #502

North Ridge (Eselsgrat)
  • Tschiervahütte, From the hut along rand moraine (as for Biancograt) until it is possible to gain the glacier (~2750m, 20min). Across the glacier towards SW passing below rock island 2907 on its north side to gain the moraine continuation of Piz Umur. Along the moraine to the base of Piz Umur NW ridge, then to the right of Piz Umur on obere Vadret da Tschierva (Roseg Kessel) at 2700m (1h from the hut). As soon as possible (~3100m) to glacier and across it in large bow to gain the Eselsgrat (La Crasta) at approximately 3350m (2,5h from Tschiervahütte)., 2,5h, 730m
Eselsgrat (North Ridge, Cresta NW). AD-/G4; III, 40°; 624m/1354mm, 3h from the start of the actual climb, 6-8h from Tschiervahütte to summit. Descent along the same route to Pontresina 5h. Henry Cordier, Thomas Middlemore, J. Jaun & Kaspar Maurer, 1876-08-18.
Normal route. Nowadays considered to be the normal route and the most popular route both in ascent and descent. The ridge is rocky between a prominent snow shoulder (P. 3598m) and Sellafirn. The ridge is gained from Vadret da Tschierva along snow field at approximately half way (~3350m). If the bergschrund is open, the ridge can be followed in its entitity. Route line nowadays follows the ridge edge (equipped), previous line more on the East side of the ridge is subject to stone fall danger. From the end of rocky ridge (1h) along snow ridge to shoulder (P 3598m) and via Scheekuppe (3921m, 2,5h from base of the climb) to main summit (0,5h from Schneekuppe) along airy connecting ridge (II, cornices). For descent abseil points from the start of the rocky ridge directly down to the glacier. Descend along the same route. Rappel stations equipped with abseil rings.

Hochtouren #15; SAC 5 #404; Flaig #501

W side
SW flank. AD-; 6-7h.
From Chamanna Coaz (2610m) to shoulder (3598). From there on along Eselsgrat to summit.

SAC 5 #402

South side
Sellagrat (SW ridge, Cresta Sella). Rock, D+; IV; 6-8h. G.L. & C.G.G. Steward, Ferdinand Summetmatter &M Alphonse Simond, 1909-07-30.
Worthwhile long ridge route from fuorcla de la Sella (Sella pass, 3269m). P3379 is turned on the south, then along firn couloir to the first ridge summit. Then along the ridge edge (IV and III) to the big tower. The tower is split by prominent crack on its west flank, on its right side along the bands to regain the ridge above the tower. Then over another tower and four smaller teeth to 50m high steep section that is climbed on the west flank (IV). Then along flat section over teeth (possibly turning them on the south side) to gain the easier upper ridge leading to the summit.

SAC 5 #409; Flaig #496

Marinelli Couloir. D; 70°; 3h. Damiano Marinelli, Hans Grass & Battista Pedranzini, 1881-07-14.
Badly stonefall endangered obvious snow/ice couloir in the middle of the rocky face leading to the col between main summit and Roseg Pitschen. Only feasible when the conditions are advantageous.

SAC 5 #408; Flaig #498

SE Flank via Piz Roseg Pitschen (SSE Ridge, SSOGrat auf dem Piz Roseg Pitschen). Rock, AD; III+; 800m, 4-6h to Roseg Pitschen. Alfredo & Nello Corti & Martino Trippi, 1940-08-20.
The ridge falling from Roseg Pitschen between Marinelli Coulir and ENE Ridge leading to Porta Roseg. Adventurous climbing, on very poor rock. No fixed gear. According to SAC guidebook only AD, III+, felt more like IV-V D and IV(+) (both more difficult and substantially more serious and committing that Kuffnerpfeiler of Piz Palü (IV D-, IV)). Also good luck at keeping to guide book time. Retreat would be difficult due to highly suspect anchors and stuck ropes. Short and simple approach from bivacco Agostino Parravicini over the glacier. 0,5h. Traverse from Roseg Pitschen to main summit, then along the Eselsgrat to Chamanna da Tschierva or via SW flank to Chamanna Boval. From Roseg Pitschen abseil 50m down to snowy ridge (at first sharp and corniced), then traverse it to gain the rocks of the main summit (III?, 1h from Roseg Pitschen). From the main summit descend along the normal route to Schneekuppe (II, 0,5h from the main summit) to shoulder and further down to valley. Descend to Tschioewrva side involves several rappes (gear in situ).

SAC 5 #407.2

South side
South side. PD; III; 3-3,5h.
via Vadretta di Scerscen Superiore

SAC 5 #413; Flaig #493

North side
North side. D-; 4-6h.
via Vadret da Tschierva

SAC 5 #412; Flaig #492

Located between Porta Roseg (3522m) and Piz Roseg in west and Scerscenscharte (Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina, 3870m) and Piz Bernina in East. Piz Bernina West ridge Eisnase to Tschiervahütte SW flank to rifugi Marinelli-Bombardieri

1877-09-13
First ascent
 Paul Güssfeld & Hans Grass via Eisnase
NW side
  • Tschiervahütte, From the hut along rand moraine (as for Biancograt) until it is possible to gain the glacier (~2750m, 20min). Across the glacier towards SW passing below rock island 2907 on its north side to gain the moraine continuation of Piz Umur. Along the moraine to the base of Piz Umur NW ridge, then to the right of Piz Umur on obere Vadret da Tschierva (Roseg Kessel) at 2700m (1h from the hut) and by P. 3273m to the saddle above Piz Umur (3252m, SAC 5 #404).
Eisnase (Norwestsporn, NW Spur). Ice, III D-; AI2/55-60°, III+; 700m/1400m, 5,5h from Tschiervahütte. Paul Güssfeld & hans Grass, 1877-09-13.
Normal route. Steep section 60-100m, mostly on blank ice

Hochtouren #14; SAC 5 #415; Vanis #28; Flaig #431

West ridge
  • Porta Roseg
West ridge. AD+; IV; 6-8h.
When coming from the Italian side there's no need to go all the way to Porta Roseg. Most commonly climbed as part of the traverse over Scerscen to Bernina, however, such a traverse is more commonly started by climbing the Eisnase.

SAC 5 #421; Moran 1d; Flaig #435

South side
SW couloir. AD; 5h.
Normal route. Normal route from the south. Stone fall danger.

SAC 5 #418

South face. TD; V+; 8h.

SAC 5 #419

The only 4000er in Eastern Alps and one of the architecturally most beautiful mountains.Main climbing objective are the ridges, especially Biancograt is very famous and correspondingly popular. Spallagrat to rifugio Marco e Rosa and further along Foretzzagrat to Bernina valley (or Chamanna da Boval or Diavolezza) or val malenco (rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri) Biancograt to Tschiervahütte

  • Piz Bernina (4049m)
  • Piz Alv (3995m)
1850-09-13
First ascent
 Johan Coaz, Jon Ragut Tscharner & Lorenz Ragut Tscharner. Coaz christened the mountain 'Piz Bernina'. Coaz was a topographer and both Ragut Tscharners his helpers. They climbed via Morteratsch glacier and Eastern Ridge. Though they were on a mission, they let their topographic instruments on the foot of the Eastern Ridge and continued to the top driven by the summit fever.
  • Canal Rolf, Donatsch Peter, Anker Daniel & Bösch Robert: Piz Bernina - König der Ostalpen. AS Verlag, 1999. Isbn: 9783905111453.
North ridge (Biancograt, Crast' Alva)
Long ridge running between Val Rosetg in West and Morteratsch glacier in East. The ridge starts at Fuorcla Prievlusa (3430m).
  • Tschiervahütte, AD, 45-50°
  • Bovalhütte, Alternatively it can be accessed from Boval hut on Morteratsch glacier side (AD with rock up to IV, rock fall danger), AD, IV
Biancograt (Crast Alva). III AD/AD+/G6; 45-50°, III/III+; 600m 4h (ridge itself), 1450m, 7-8h from Tschierva Hut. Henry Cordier, Thomas Middlemore, Johann Jaun & Kaspar Maurer to Piz Bianco, 1876-08-12. Prof. Paul Güssfeldt, Hans Grass & Johann Gross to Piz Bernina, 1878.
A splendid snow ridge of Biancograt (North Ridge) is one of the most renowed climbs in the whole Alps. From Tschierva hut to Prievlus Pass, along the ridge to the summit and descent to Rifugio Marco e Rosa or directly to Diavolezza hut.

Hochtouren #13; SAC 5 #435; Moran 1c; Firn- und Eisklettern #65; Seibert pp.32-34; Flaig #423

East side
NE Flank "Durch die Gurgel". AD; II; 4-5h from Boval hut.
There are several difficult and serious routes on the NE Flank, e.g. "Winkel" through entire hanging glacier. Only route "durch die Gurgel" is reasonable. From Boval Hut to Sass dal Pos (3265m) and along East Ridge to the summit. Stone fall danger.

SAC 5 #438; Flaig #424a

South ridge
Spallagrat (Spalla del Bernina e cresta Sud). III PD/PD+; II, 35°; 1050m from Diavolezza Hut (1973m) to Marco e Rosa Hut (3597m), summit climb 500m, 1,5h. F.F. Tuckett, F.A.Y. Brown, C. Almer & F. Andermatt, 1866-06-23.
Normal route. The route goes along South Ridge via Southern Foresummit Spalla (4020m). Predominantly glacier with long and complicated approach. I and II on rock (fixed gear).

Hochtouren #12; SAC 5 #430; Moran 1a; Seibert pp.32-34; Flaig #421

Ostgrat. PD+; II; 500m, 1,5-2,5h from Marco e Rosa hut.
Upper part of the east ridge.

Flaig #422; Moran 1b

West side
West Face (Westwand). D+; 50-60°; 500m, 5-6h from Tschierva hut. T.Graham Brown, Alexander Graven & Josef Knubel, 1930-08-18.
Direct ice route to col between Piz Alv and Piz Bernina.

SAC 5 #432; Vanis #27; Flaig #425

Traverse Roseg - Scerscen - Bernina (Complete west ridge). TD-; 14-18h.
Eselsgrat to Piz Roseg. descent along ENE ridge of Roseg to Porta Roseg. From there along West ridge to Piz Scerscen and further to Serscensharte (Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina) and finally along west ridge to Piz Bernina.

SAC 5 #404, SAC 5 #406, SAC 5 #421, SAC 5 #432; Moran 1d; Flaig #433

WSW ridge from Piz Scerscen (Traverse Scerscen - Bernina). D+; III AI2, III+; 14-18h. 3-4h (2-5h) from Piz Scerscen to Piz Bernina.
Piz Scerscen Eisnase (D-) - Piz Scerscen - Piz Scerscen East summit - Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina (Scerscenscharte, 3870m) - la Spalla - Bernina. Descent either along Spallagrat to Rifugio Marco e Rosa or along Biancograt to Tschiervahütte. From Piz Scerscen a mixed ridge (up to IV) with several short abseils. It is also possible to reach Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina directly from Tschierva glacier through Nordcouloir (D, SAC 5 #426) or from Rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri through Südcouloir (D, SAC 5 #425).

SAC 5 #415, SAC 5 #421; Moran 1d; Flaig #433

Easiest ascent is on the north side. West side (Roseg Valley) has routes between PD and AD. Routes are about 600m long, 1200m from Tschierva hut to the summit. Longest (600 - 700m) and most difficult routes (D - TD) are found on the east side (Morteratsch valley). 1300m from Boval hut (2495m) to the summit.

  • Piz Morteratsch (3751m)
  • Piz Prievlus (3610m)
East side
ENE Ridge (Crasta da la Spraunza). Mixed, D-, III (mixed); 700m (ridge only), 6-7h. M.Schintz & A. e J.Pollinger, 1892-08.

SAC 5 #453

Normal Route from Boval Hut (NE Ridge). AD-, 40°, I; 4h from Boval Hut. C.G.Brugger, P.Gensler & A.Kleingutti, 1858-09-11.
Normal route. Often combined with descent to Tschierva hut

Hochtouren #10; SAC 5 #450; Seibert pp.30-31

F

PD
Bernina >

Piz Palü group. Eastern part of the high peaks containing the chain Piz Zupo - Bellavista - Piz Palü - Piz Cambrena.

Normal route via West ridge from rifugi Marco e Rosa (PD, 2h, SAC 5 #502). Several other routes at around AD.

Swiss side is completely on firn (PD) while the Italian side is rocky and much steeper with routes between grades AD and ED.

Located on the main ridge between Piz Bernina (4049m), Crast' Agüzza (3869m), Piz Argient (3945m) and Fuorcla Zupo (3851m) in west and Passo Zupo (3840m), Bellavista (3922), Fuorcla Bellavista (3688m) and Piz Palü in east.The 2nd highest mountain in Bernina Alps. The name "Zupo" means "hidden", as the from the north side the mountain is hidden behind Bellavista (3922m). South and SE sides have big faces and pillars. Most worthwhile ascents are from Morteratsch side, especially traverse over Bellavista - Piz Zupo - Piz Argient (or in opposite directions).
North Ridge. F+/PD/G3; 35, 35°; 1500m, 5,5h from the Boval hut (2495m), 1/2 - 3/4h from Passo Zupo (3840m).
Easiest route from Italy

Flaig #377

Traverse Piz Argient - Piz Zupó - Bellavista. AD-.
From Marco e Rosa Hut (3597m) via Fuorcla Zupo (3851m) and NE Ridgge to Piz Argient (3945m, PD, 1,5-2h from Fuorcla Zupo). From there traverse to Piz Zupó (45 min.), and further to Passo Zupo (3840m) and traverse of four summits of Bellavista : Main (west, 3922m), Eiskuppe (Wintergupfel, 3892m), 2nd summit (3893m) and East summit (3804m) and descent to Fuorcla Bellavista (3688) between Bellavista and Piz Palü. Descent to Diavolezza hut (2973m).
SW Ridge.
Easiest ascent from Morteratsch side. From Marinelli hut via Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza and col between Piz Argient and Piz Zupó (1,5-2h from Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza). Descent via Piz Argient (3945m) to Marco e Rosa hut (3597m).

Flaig #376; Hochtouren #11

Four summits located between Piz Palü and Piz Zupò are collectively referred to as Bellavista. Most commonly climbed as past of the traverse of Piz Palü to rifugi Marco e Rosa (PD+) or along the route from either Boval-Hut or Berghaus Diavolezza to Rifugio Marco e Rosa via Fortezza ridge (Fortezza 3482m - Fuorcla Bellavista - Bellavista - Rif. Marco e Rosa, PD, II). However, easioest route to rifugi Marco e Rosa from the east goes via bellavista terasse, glacier shelf below Bellavista summits.
Bellavista
  • Fuorcla Bellavista
E-W traverse. PD+; 2,5h from Fuorcla Bellavista to P 3922.

Seibert pp.34; Flaig #365; Hochtouren #7; SAC 5 #526

Easternmost of the high peaks of Bernina, located on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Most famous glacier peak of Eastern Alps for several reasons. Piz Palü had a central role in the old movie "White Hell of Piz Palü". 800-900m high north face is unique and easy to recognize because of three pillars and four hanging glaciers. Cable car from Val Bernina to Diavolezza Hut (2973m, the best starting point for ascents on the north side) makes the approach significantly easier. For descend, typically three options are used: normal route along East ridge to Diavolezza hut Traverse over main and West summits to Fuorcla Bellavista, then down the Fortezzagrat to Chamanna da Boval (and further to Bernina valley) or to Diavolezza hut or Traverse over main and West summits to Fuorcla Bellavistam then followed by the traverse via Bellavista terrace to Rifugio Marco e Rosa, from where it is possible to continue down to Italian side via rifugio Marinelli or climnb Piz Bernina and descent via Biancograt.

  • Piz Palü (3881m)
  • Piz Palü (3906m)
  • Piz Palü (3923m)
  • Anker & Philip: Piz Palü - dreiklang in Fels und Eis. AS-Verlag, 2003. Isbn: 9783905111965.
East ridge
  • Berghaus Diavolezza, From the hut passing Piz Trovat on the east side to fuorcla Trovat (3019m) followed by a short descent to Vadret Pers. Across the glacier below NW side of Piz Cambrena and zig zagging ascent through Cambrenabruch (crevasses) to gain the flat glacier shelf at 3400m and further to shoulder at 3726m.
East ridge via East summit. II-III PD/G3-4; 40°; 950m, 4,5h from Diavolezza Hut.
Normal route. Popular high alpine glacier climb starting from Diavolezza Hut (2973m). The glacier is heavily crevassed and route has exposed ridge that often has enormous cornices.

Seibert pp.27-29; SAC 5 #535

  • Piz Palü. Trip Report September 05-06, 1998 by Hartmut Bielefeldt. Includes route description.
  • Piz Palü. from AVS Ahrntal.
Traverse East-West. PD+/AD; II, 35°; 6-8h.
Diavolezza Hut (2973m) - East Shoulder (758m, 3,5h) - Piz Palü east summit (151m, 0,5h) - Piz Palü central summit (50m, 0,5h) - Piz Palü west summit (60m, 0,75h from east summit) - Fuorcla Bellavista (3688m, 0,75h) - Fortezza (3369m) - Isla Persa (2720m) - Diavolezza Hut (2973m). Descend follows the Fortezzagrat, falling towards north from Fuorcla Bellavista. The upper ridge is on firn, the lower part is rocky. Drop (II) is best rappelled. Further down along the ridge to Isla Persa (2720m). Further descend from here follows the west flank down to Morteratsch glacier and across it to rand moraine, then along the rand of the glacier towards north to Chamnanna da Boval or to the east down and across vadret Pers and up to Diavolezza hut.
Complete East Ridge. AD-; II, 45°; 1430m.
via Fuorcla Pers Palü to Shoulder (3729m) and along the normal route to East summit. Longer and more demanding alternative to normal route.
North face
800-900m high north face is unique and easy to recognize because of three pillars and four hanging glaciers. Kuffner Pillar is the easiest and most popular route on the face. Besides the famous pillars, all four hanging glaciers have been climbed, but are not nearly as popular as the pillars (and all have substantial ice fall danger). The one between Kuffner and Bumiller pillar is the longest and steepest.
  • Berghaus Diavolezza, For Easternmost routes: From the hut passing Piz Trovat on the east side to fuorcla Trovat (3019m) followed by a short descent to Vadret Pers. Across the glacier below NW side of Piz Cambrena and zig zagging ascent through Cambrenabruch (crevasses). Then towards west keeping the altitude, passing the rocky island above to gain the East ridge. The pillar is gained at ~3200m, above the steep bottommost third. 2-3h from Berghaus Diavolezza. For central and western routes: 1,5-2h over crevassed Pers glacier
Kuffner Pillar (Kuffnerpfeiler). Mixed, IV D-; IV- (short sections, mostly III), AI1°/50°; 580m, 3-5h. Alexander Burgener, Martin Schocher & Moritz Von Kuffner, 1899-08-22.
Classic. North Spur of East Peak. Most popular route on north face and the easiest of three pillars. Lower part rocky on solid rock, upper third snow/ice. Some bolts exist, slings and nuts useful. The route follows more or less the ridge itself, possibly passing steep sections on the left side to gain the exposed firn/ice section. Along the ridge to summit ridge.

Hochtouren #8; Flaig #340

Bumiller Pillar (Bumillerpfeiler). Mixed, IV TD-/TD; V (short sections, mostly III and IV), 60-90 (depending on the condition of the serac)°; 750m, 6-8h. Bumiller, Gross, Schnitzler & Schocher, 1887.
Classic. Classic mixed climb on the north spur of central peak, the most difficult of three pillars. Usually climbed during the summer with rock shoes.

Hochtouren #9; Firn- und Eisklettern #64; Flaig #342

Spinas Pillar (Spinaspfeiler). D-; V- (mostly IV and III); 650m. 6-9h. Burton-Alexander, Grass & Zippert, 1899-07-31.
North Spur of West Peak

Flaig #344

Fortezzagrat
Ridge falling towards north from Fuorcla Bellavista.
Fortezzagrat. PD; II; 4-4,5h.
The upper ridge is on firn, the lower part is rocky. Drop (II) is best rappelled. Further down along the ridge to Isla Persa (2720m). Further descend from here follows the west flank down to Morteratsch glacier and across it to rand moraine, then along the rand of the glacier towards north to Chamnanna da Boval or to the east down and across vadret Pers and up to Diavolezza hut.
South side

SAC 5 #536

Located to the east of Piz Palü
North face
Nordwestsporn (Eisnase, North face). Ice/snow, AD; III, 45-50°; 575m, 3h. H. Frich, Christian Zippert & Hans Carper, 1916-08-23.
Ice climb with steep section at Eisnase. Descent down to Fuorcla Pers Palü and further to Diavolezza. Alternatively, can be combined with the ascent of Piz Palü along the east ridge.

Hochtouren #5; SAC 5 #546, #546a; Flaig #423

Gabarrou (Couloir NW). D+; IV, III WI4/70-75°; 600m. Patrick Gabarrou, 1985-06-19.
Left couloir arm between Eisnase and right arm of the couloir.

SAC 5 #547a

Couloir NW (Durch die Rinne in der Westnordwestflanke). TD; IV, 70°.

SAC 5 #547

South side
SW and SE ridges both II (PD - AD-)

SAC 5 #550-552

Bernina >

Located between val Malenco in the west and val Poschiavo in the east. The namesake of the group is Pizzo Scalino (3323m).

  • Scalino-Canciano
  • Painale-Rognedo
  • Malgina-Combolo
Bernina >

Val da camp is the eastern side valley of upper val Poschiavo. Val da camp mountains cover the areas to the east of road connecting Bernina and Poschiavo valleys (Bernina Pass), between Bernina group in the west and Ortler group in the east. Part of the larger group known as Livigno Alps.

Bregaglia & Disgrazia

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Pizzo di Prata - Monte Gruf

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Pizzo Porcellizzo - Ligoncio - Cime del Calvo

Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > Pizzo Porcellizzo - Ligoncio - Cime del Calvo >
Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > Pizzo Porcellizzo - Ligoncio - Cime del Calvo >
NE wall
Relatively short wall with several popular climbs. Very good rock, Abseils equipped along the Bramani route.
  • Rifugio Omio (2100m), 1,5h (SAC 4 #938) along the path towards Passo Ligoncio.
Bramani. Rock, III AD+, 4a (III/IV); 250m/700m. V. Bramani, L. Binaghi, G. Alessio & G. Forgiarini, 1931-08-30.
Classic. Starts together with Spigolo Fiorelli, then climbs directly to the summit.

SAC 4 #941.5; Gaddi #5i

Spigolo Fiorelli (Crippa, via Fiorelli, NNE edge). Rock, III D+, 4b (IV/V); 270m (5 pitches). C. Crippa & Giulio Fiorelli, 1954-10-06.

SAC 4 #941.6; Gaddi #5l

NW face
Almost 400 high face with number of difficulkt routes of which via del Peder is the best known (5c+,A0, 330m).
SE face
Via dei Morbegnesi. Rock, ; 6b (5b,A1); 250m.

SAC 4 #942.4; Gaddi #5c

South face
via Normale. Rock, 3b; 120m, 1h.

SAC 4 #934.1; Gaddi #6a

via Ho Chi Minh. Rock, 4b (IV+); 180m.

SAC 4 #934.2; Gaddi #6b

via Virgilio Fiorelli (Ostkante). Rock, 4c (V); 200m.

SAC 4 #934.3; Gaddi #6c

Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > Pizzo Porcellizzo - Ligoncio - Cime del Calvo >
Cime del Calvo - Monte Spluga
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Cime di Gaiazzo - Sasso Manduino
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Sciora - Cacciabella - Spazzacaldeira

Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > Sciora - Cacciabella - Spazzacaldeira >

Chain running to west from Caccianbelkla and thus forming the north border of Bondasca valley.

Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > Sciora - Cacciabella - Spazzacaldeira >
il Gallo - Pizzo Spazzacaldera

Plaisir Sud 54

North side
La Fiamma. Rock, ; 5c+ (5obl.)/5.9; 20m.
Classic. Very airy tooth, much beloved climbing destination. Shortest approach is the Schluch route (3a, SAC 4 #606) but also NE Ridge is very popular approach.

SAC 4 #608; Plaisir Sud #54.4'

NE Grat. Rock, 4c E3 (4b obl.).
Classic. Interesting climbing on excellent rock.

SAC 4 #604; Plaisir Sud #54.4

SE flank
There are host routes on 3km wide SE flank with very short approach from the dam starting with the normal route (2a, SAC 4 #601).
Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > Sciora - Cacciabella - Spazzacaldeira >
Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > Sciora - Cacciabella - Spazzacaldeira >

Pass Cacciabella Nord - Innominata - Punta Pioda - Ago di Sciora - Sciora Dadent - Cima della Bondasca

Geographically compact group, but one with several famous ascents. The climbs are almost solely accessed from Bondasca valley, as the Albigna side has poorer rock and longer approaches.

Traverse of Sciora group is possible at both directions at 4a (S-N SAC 4 #763, N-S SAC 4 #764).

Piodakante (Bramani). Rock, D+/TD-; 5c+ (5b obl. E4)/VI-(V+ obl.); 770m/23 pitches, 6-8h. Abseil descent 3-4h.
Classic. Superb long classic. Other than the crux overhang the climbing is easier.

SAC 4 #739; Plaisir Sud 55.4

NW side
North West Ridge (Westgrat, oberste aufschwung). Rock, AD+/D, 4a (UIAA V/yds 5.7); 800m, 3-4h, 6h from Capanna di Sciora. Risch, 1923-07-01.

SAC 4 #745.3

East side
East flank and South face. Rock, 3c; 300m 6h.

SAC 4 #743

Scarabelli (SE Wand & E-Kante). 5c+,A1; 270m, 5-6h.

SAC 4 #750

The highrest and southernmost peak in Scioragroup. Although there are several climbing routes not very important as a climbing goal.
Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia >
Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > main chain >
Pizzo Badile - Pizzo Cengalo

The group consists of only three main summits, but all of them are very important climbing destinations and sport great number of big routes.

Propably the most famous mountain in Bregaglia. There are two ultra classic rock routes, North Ridge on Cassin on NE face.
Piz Badile, ,
First ascent		 W.A.B. Coolidge, Francois & Henri Devouassoud via South Face.
South Face
  • val Porcelizzo/rifugio Gianetti
South Face. II PD, passages of 3b (III); 500m. W.A.B. Coolidge, Francois & Henri Devouassoud, 1867.

SAC 4 #888

via Molteni (SE Face, 1st Pillar). D+; 5b/V; 500m.
One of the most interesting climbs from rifugio Gianetti. Most climbed route on the face.

SAC 4 #885

Via Mauri (SSE Ridge). V+; 400m. C.Mauri, G.Ferrari & G.Fiorelli, 1995.
via Marimonti (ESE ridge). AD+/D, 4c (IV/yds 5.5).
Continuation of Punta Sertori via Marimonti

SAC 4 #856

North Face
  • Sasc Furä-Hütte (1904m). Access from Bondo (823m) via parking lot at the end of the road in Val Bondasca (ca. 1290m, 1,5h from parking lot).
North Ridge (Nordkante). Rock, III AD+/D-/Rus 4A; 5a+ (one passage/f4b, E4)/IV+, mostly III and IV/5.7; 800m, 8-10h. Round trip from Bondo typically 3 days. Walter Risch & Alfred Zürche, 1923.
Classic. Classic long rock climb, reputably one of the finest of the grade in the Alps. Approach from Sasc Furä-Hütte (1904m) 1,5h. Actual route 800m (1250m climbing with 18-25 pitches), 8-10h. Descent via Gianetti-Hütte (2536m, 3h) to San Martino in Val Masino.

SAC 4 #866; Plaisir Sud 56.1

Cassin Route (NE Face). Rock, IV TD/Rus 5B; VI+ (V,A0)/6a (5b,A0)/5.10; 800m (22 pitches), 6-8h for the ridge, further 1-1,5h to the summit (5 pitches). Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Esposito, Vittorio Ratti, Mario Molteni and Giuseppe Valsecchi, 1937.
Classic. Long, classic alpine rock climb. Stands equipped.

SAC 4 #868; Plaisir Sud 56.3

Jumar Iscariota (Pilastro a goccia, Tropfenpfeiler). ABO-, 6c,A1; 450m.

SAC 4 #864.4

South ridge
  • Rigugio Gianetti (2534m)
via Marimonti. AD+/D, 4c (IV/yds 5.5); 450m, 12 pitches. P. Cortini & P. Marimonti, 1923-08-12.
Often combined with ascent of Piz Badile ESE ridge (3a, SAC 4 #880)

SAC 4 #856

Masino-Disgrazia groupSecond highest peak in Masino-Disgrazia group. Italian (South) side has ice cap and three fine ridges. 1300m high North Wall faces Bregaglia valley. SE Wall has many routes and variations starting at AD+.
West Ridge
  • Rifugio Gianetti (2434m)
WSW Ridge. PD, 2c; 3,5h.
Normal route. Snow and rock. Via Colle del Cengalo.

SAC 4 #825

South Face
  • Rifugio Gianetti (2434m)
Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest (via Bonacossa, South Ridge, SSE-Wand). D, 4a; 4h.
Via Bonacossa avoids the main difficulties of "via Vinci"

SAC 4 #832

Punta Angela, South Face
  • Rifugio Gianetti (2434m)
ESE Face (Dalai Lama). 6b/VII; 460m (12 pitches). Luca Maspes & Christiano Perlin, 1992.

SAC 4 #834.5

via Vinci (Spigolo Sud-Sud-Ovest, South Ridge). TD, 6a- (5c+ obl. E4/V+); 400m.

SAC 4 #835; Plaisir Sud 57.11

North Face
  • Capanna di Sciora (2120m) or Capanna Sasc Furä (1904m)
North Face. TD/TD-, 4a; 1200m but more than 2000m of climbing. Borghese, Schnitzler & Schocher, 1897.

SAC 4 #828.4

NW Pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann, Cengalopfeiler). Rock, TD; 6-,A0; 950m, 8h.
Classic. Tremendous classic, considered one of the top 5 routes in Bregaglia. The only regularly climbed route on the north face. 700m rock face followed, then along Ridge to the summit.

SAC 4 #827

  • Punta SE (3262m)
  • Punta NW (3225m)
  • Bügeleisen (Ferro da Stiro) (2680m)
Bügeleisen (Ferro da Stiro)
Bügeleisen (2680m) is a foresummit along the NW ridge of Piz Gemelli. Regularly climbed as a separate goal, but it is possible to continue to Pizzi Gemelli along the NW ridge.
  • rifugio Sciora (2120m
Bügeleisen (Ferro da Stiro). Rock, TD-; 5a,A1 (5b)/V+; 400m, 9 pitches, 3-6h. H. Frei & J. Weiss, 1935.

SAC 4 #815.2; Plaisir Sud 55.6

NW ridge (Gemellikante)
Long ridge leading via Ferro da Stiro to Punta NW (3225m). Continuation to Pizzi Gemelli from Ferro da Stiro is easier but more alpine than the Bügeleisen route.
  • rifugio Sciora (2120m, 30min)
NW ridge (Gemellikante). 5c+,A0, mostly 5a; 4h from Ferro da Stiro.
Complete Gemellikante via Bügeleisen to Punta NW.

SAC 4 #816

Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > main chain >
Pizzi del Ferro - Monte di Zocca
Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > main chain >
Albigna - Forno
South side
  • Rifugio Bonacossa e Allievi (2387m). 1h.
Spigolo Gervasutti (South arete). IV TD+; 5c (5b obl. E3)/VI+ (obl. V+)/5.10b; 600m/20 pitches, 6-7h. Giusto Gervasuti & C. Negri, 2934-03-16.
Classic. Classic rock climb. The route can be escaped above the first or before the second finger. Partially equipped.

SAC 4 #476; Plaisir Sud 58.1

Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia > main chain >
Pizzi Torrone - Monte Sissone

The summit is sharp and thin with the difficulty of uiaa 4+.
North ridge
  • From colle del Castello (3215m)
North ridge. 4b; 4h.

SAC 4 #269

SW ridge
via Bramani. 4b; 6h from rifugio Allievi.
Varied and interesting climbing on excellent rock.

SAC 4 #267

  • Occidentale (3349m)
  • Centrale (3290m)
  • Orientale (3333m)
Bregaglia & Disgrazia > Bregaglia >

Cantun - Piz Bacun

Chaing running towards north from Cima di Castello separating Albigna and Forno valleys.

Bregaglia & Disgrazia >

Monte del Forno - Monte Rosso - Cima di Rosso - Passo Sissone - Monte Sissone - Cima di Chiareggio - Pizzo Pioda - Monte Disgrazia - Pizzo Cassandra

North side
Nordostgrat. Rock, AD+; IV; 2400m, 4h.

Hochtoures #3

South side
SW flank & W Ridge. AD.

SAC 4 #143

North face
NW flank. AD.

SAC 4 #145

Direkte Nordwand (North face). Mixed, D-; 55-60°, III-; 520m, 4,5h. W. Amstutz & A. Bonacossa, 1930.

Vanis #30; Seibert pp.35-37; Hochtouren #4; SAC 4 #147

Provides exceptionally good view due to its location at the head of Forno valley, Val di mello and Val malenco. Climbed often from Fornohütte.

Unnamed summit 200m to the east of P. 3295 on the NE ridge of Monte Disgrazia.
East ridge
East ridge. Rock, D-, 4a (IV+); 350m. Alfredo Corti & Giuseppe Nino Dell'Andrino, 1920-07-21.
Classic rock route. Exceptionally fine combined with Corda Molle of Monte Disgrazia by spending the night at bivacco Oggioni.

Hochtouren #2; SAC 4 #189

Side summit of Monte Disgrazia on its NW ridge.

Highest peak of Disgrazia-Bregaglia group. Rises completely isolated and is much snowier that other mountains of the range. The name means "the mountain of misfortune". Four main ridges NW ridge via Monte Pioda to Passo di Mello SSW ridge via Monte di Corno Rosso to Gasso di Corno Grosso SE ridge to OPasso Cassandra NE ridge (Corda Molla) Easiest descent is the normal route to rifugio Ponti. Descent the val Malenco is more difficult and follows more or less along Corda Molla (multiple abseils) to rifugio Porro. Alternative (but very long) descend follows the normal route at first, then cli9mbs to Passo di Mello and finally to Chiareggio.

  • East Summit (3648m)
  • Central Summit (3650m)
  • Main Summit (3678m)
Monte Disgrazia, ,
First ascent		 L.Stephen, E.Kennedy, T.Cox & A.Anderegg
North Face
North Face Direct. TD; 60°; 600m, 4-6h. Albertini & Schenatti, 1934.

SAC 4 #178

Spigolo Inglese (North Face). Ice, D; 55°; 500m. Ling & Raeburn, 1910-08-05. Albertini & Schenatti, 1934.
Pure ice up to 55° (200m, 50°/500m)

SAC 4 #177

NW Ridge
  • From Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2559m) via Sella di Pioda (830m, 2,5h) to NW Ridge. Valley base is Cataeggio (791m) and normal starting point is parking lot at Preda Rossa (1960m).
Preda Rossa (NW Ridge). PD+/AD/G4; III, mostly II and I, 45°; 1100m, 4-5h from the hut.
Long and partially exposed ridge. From Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2559m) via Sella di Pioda (3387m) to NW Ridge and along it to summit.

Seibert pp.37-39; SAC 4 #175; Hochtouren #1

Schenatti Couloir. Ice, II AD; II AD/50°, II; 400m/1100m, 4-7h from the hut.
Schenatti couloir follows the Normal route close to Sella di Pioda, then climbs the 400m ice couloir (50°) to NW Ridge and along it to summit.

SAC 4 #175a

NW Ridge from Passo di Mello. 3b; 6h.
Very long ridge climb starting from Passo di Mello (2991m) and climbing via Punta Pioda (NW Ridge, 3a, 3h) and Sella di Pioda (3387m) to Monte Disgrazia. From Sella di Pioda along the normal route.

SAC 4 #173, #175

Corno Grosso grat (SSW ridge)
Corno Grosso grat (SSW ridge). 3a; 6h. Albertini & Schenatti, 1934.
Passo di Corno Grosso (2836m) - Cima di Corno Grossa (3180m) - P 3250 - Monte Disgrazia. Has to be started from Rifugio Cesare Ponti as Rifugio Desio is destroyed.

SAC 4 #184

NNE Ridge
  • From Bivacco Oggioni (3151m), located to the north of Monte Disgrazia, close to Punta Kennedy (3295m).
Corda Molla (NNE Ridge). III AD+; 3a, III AD/45°; 550m from Bivacco Oggioni. B.De Ferrari & Ignazio Dell'Andrino, 1914-08.

SAC 4 #179

South Face
  • SW Ridge via Baroni 3a 4-5h SAC 4 #186
  • Direttissima (South Face?) AD+, IV/V
  • SW Ridge from Rifugio Desio PD
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