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Eastern Alps

Grossglockner. East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe.

East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe. Source: Ari Paulin, (c) Ari Paulin , licensed under (c) Ari Paulin. Shot on 2009-06-21 in Grossglockner, Austria (Google maps).

General

Eastern Alps consist of numerous mountain groups and sub groups. Alpine Clubs made official structure back in 1984 which is used in most guidebooks and maps. The structure on this site is consistent with this division. However, areas that are less interesting for mountaineering and alpinism may be grouped together to form larger groups. Also few mountain sgroups, officially associated with Western Alps are grouped togethern with western areas of Eastern Alps under the heading Central Alps.

  • Donatsch Peter & Coulin David: Die schönsten Gipfelziele der Schweizer Alpen Ost - Ostschweiz, Glarus, Schwyz, Graubünden, Tessin, 2. Auflage edition. AT Verlag, 2002. Isbn: 978-3855029075.
  • Jentzsch-Rabl Alex & Jentzsch Andreas: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen. Alpinverlag, 2003. Isbn: 3-9500920-0-5.
  • O'Connor Bill: Alpine Ski Mountaineering, vol 2: Central & Eastern Alps. Cicerone, 2003. Isbn: 18528433748.
  • Schmitt Edwin & Pusch Wolfgang: Hochtouren Ostalpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004. Isbn: 3763330100.
  • Seibert Dieter: Eastern Alps - the Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks. Diadem Books, 1992. Isbn: 0-906371-54-6.
  • Widmaer Johanna: Best of Alpine Genussklettereien, Band 1. Band 1. Alpinverlag, 2002. Isbn: 392680730X.

Central Alps

Central Alps are located in the Eastern Switzerland to the east of Bernese and Pennine Alps and beyond Grimsel and Furka Passes. They consist of numerous smaller ranges. Whether Central Alps actually exist as a third main group of the Alps is not clear. Here however, few groups often associated with Western Alps are grouped together.

Glarus Alps to the south and east of Engelberg are possibly to most interesting of these to the climbers. Titlis (3240m) above Lake Lucerne and city of Engelberg is a popular ski mountaineering peak. Around it, there are several lesser peaks that, however, have high-quality granite for rock climbing. For those interested in classic ice climbing, Clariden (3267m) Nordwand (AD, 50°) is the best objective.

Farther south on the Swiss-Italian border between Simplon and Splügen passes lie the Lepontine Alps (eastern part of the range is sometimes refered to as Adula Alps). The range has several peaks that rise above 3000m mark, but it is not particularly popular among the climbers because of the quality of the rock leaves some room for improvement. However, these areas are well suited for ski mountaineering during the winter. Especially popular is Monte Leone (3553m) just above the town of Brig.

The Albula Alps lie in the canton of Grisons (Graubünden), north of the winter sport center Saint Moritz and rises between Splügen and Flüela passes. There the rock begins to reminiscent dolomitic limestone. The highest peak is Piz Kesch (3418m).

North-eastern Swiss Alps lie close to Austrian border. The best known peaks of the area are Glärnisch (2920m) and Säntis (2504m) in the canton of Appenzell.

  • Swiss Landeskarte: 247 (Tarasp), 1:25 000.
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 247 (Tarasp), 1:50 000.
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1137 (Albula), 1:25 000.
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 258 (Bergün), 1:50 000.
  • Anderson: Mittel Switzerland - Lepontine - Ticino - Adula Alps.
  • Griffin Lindsay: Bernina and Bregaglia - selected climbs including Disgrazia and the Albula Region. Alpine Club, 1995. Isbn: 0-900523-60-3.
  • Hunziker Manfred: Bündner Alpen 6 - Albula: vom Septimer zum Flüela. SAC Verlag, 2000. Isbn: 3-85902-187-7.
  • Rotondo Hut. Guide of Selected Climbs and Tours in the Rotondo area (Switzerland).
Monte Leone (3553m)

located close to the city of Brig. The highest peak of Lepontine Alps and the most important peak in Simplon pass (2005m) area. NW side has ice routes while North, NE and south sides have rock routes. Popular also on skis between March and June.

Piz Kesch (3418m)

Bündner Alps/Albula Alps The highest mountain of Bündner Alps and Albula Alps. There is a small glacier on the north side while south face is mostly rock. There are three summits, West (3418m),Central (3405m) and East (Keschnadel, 3386m). The lowest east summit is the most spectacular with climbing routes on it. NE Ridge AD+, IV,5-6h) is a classic. Most difficult climbs are found on East face (TD-, V+, A2).

  • Piz Kesch (3418m)
  • Piz Kesch (3405m)
  • Piz Kesch (3386m)
Clariden (3267m)

Located in Uri/Glarus. Very popular ski mountain due to easy access both from Zürich and Luzern. Especially South and East faces and East Pillar are impressive.

Titlis (3240m)

Located in Glarus/Urner Alps above Sustenpass and city of Engelberg and lake Lucerne. There is a cable car from Engelberg to 3020m. Popular ski mountaineering destination. There used to be via ferrata on the south face.

Bernina Alps and Bregaglia

Bernina Alps and Bregaglia are located very close together in the southeast corner of Switzerland. Outside mountaineering circles the area is more famous as the winter playground of the "jet-set", centered on the fashionable resorts of St. Moritz (1822m) and Samedan (1720m) in the upper Engadin valley, and Pontresina (1800m) in Bernina valley. <<more>>.

Northern Eastern Alps (Northern limestone Alps)

Northern part of Eastern Alps extend through Southern Germany and northern Austria from Bodensee in West to Wien in East. The area consist of many mountain groups, many of which are not too important for mountaineers and alpinists. Several limestone ranges ranges located right on the border between Austria and Germany, collectively referred to as Bavarian Alps are well suited for alpine rock climbing. Because of the relatively low altitude and approximity of major cities München, Innsbruck and Salzburg, the area is also popular among mountain walkers and hikers. Most important mountains are Zugspitze (2962m) in Wetterstein Group and Watzmann (2713m) in Berchtesgader Alps. Also, Dachtein group further to the east is important climbing area. In the following, only most important areas are introduced.

  • Map of Tirol. Shows the location of most mountain groups of Bavarian Alps.
  • Bauregger Heinrich: Die schönste Klettersteige zwischen Berchtesgaden und Allgäu. Bucher, 2001. Isbn: 376584053X.
  • Goedeke Richard: Bayerische Alpen, Nordtirol. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2003. Isbn: 37633016X.
  • Heller Horst: Nördliche Kalkalpen. Verlag Berg, 1991.
  • Höfler Horst: Klettern in den Nördlichen Kalkalpen. Bruckmann, 1991.
  • Höfler Horst: Nördliche Kalkalpen West. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1983.
  • Pasold Achim: Allgäu. Panico, 2000. Isbn: 3-926807-59-8.
  • Precht Albert: Tennengebirge. Panico, 2001. Isbn: 3-926807-85-7.
  • Schall Kurt: Klettersteige Österreich Ost. Schall Verlag.
  • Stocker Adi: Steinplatte. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3--936740-03-8.
  • Wehrle Charly: Das Reintal. Panico Alpinverlag, 2002.
  • Werner Paul: Klettersteige Bayern-Vorarlberg-Tirol-Salzburg - Wanderführer special. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004. Isbn: 3763330941.
  • Wernner Paul: Klettersteig: Scrambles in the Northern Limestone Alps. Cicerone.
  • Zlobl Hans: Eiskalt 2 - Salzburg. Panico, 1997. Isbn: 3926807571.

Ammergauer/Lechtaler Alpen

Located to the west of Wetterstein

  • Ammergauer Hochplatte (2082m)
  • Scheinbergspitze (1926m)
  • Klammspitze (1924m)
  • Kramer (1985m)
  • Daniel und Upspitze (2340m)
  • Thaneller (2340m)
  • Kohlbergspitze (2202m)
  • Lutz Markus & Heiland Robert: Ammergau. Panico, 1999. Isbn: 3-926807-71-7.

Bayerische Voralpen

Northernmost group of German Alps, located between Loisach in the West and Berchtesgadener Alps (separated by the river Inn) in the East. Higher groups of Wetterstein, Karwendel and Rofan form souther border of Bayerische Voralpen. The most prominent peaks of the area are Kampenwand, Hörnlwand and Sonntagshorn (1961m). Famous winter sport cities Inzell and Ruhpolding in NE and Reit im Winkl in SW are the most commonly used bases.

  • Krottenkopf (2082m)
  • Wendelstein (1837m)
  • Rotwand (1885m)
  • Hirschberg (1670m)
  • Risserkogel (1826m)
  • Schinder (1808m)
  • Aiplspitze (1759m) und Jägerkamp
  • Jochberg (1565m)

Chiemgauer Alpen

  • Geigelstein (1808m)
  • Hochgern (1748m)
  • Kampenwand (1664m)
  • Hörndlwand (1684m)

Wetterstein/Mieminger

Wetterstein is relatively small area located on the border between Germany and Austria, just south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Mieminger lies just south of Wetterstein and North of Stubai Alps. The highest aand most famous mountain of the area is Zugspitze (2962m), the highest mountain of Germany.

  • Zugspitze (2962m) und Jubiläumsgrat
  • Hochwanner (2744m)
  • Hochblasen (2706m)
  • Alpspitze (2620m)
  • Partenkirchener Dreitorspitze (2633m)
  • Obere Wettersteinspitze (2297m)
  • Ehrwalder Sonnenspitze (2412m)
  • Grosse Arnspitze (2195m)
  • Beulke Stefan: Alpenvereinführer Wettersteingebirge. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • Eberle Bernd & Zak Heinz: Wetterstein Süd. Panico, 2001. ISBN: 3-926807-86-5.
  • Heinl Josepf: Wetterstein Gebirge. Odyssee Alpinverlag, 1988.
  • Pfanzelt Helmut: Gebietsführer Wetterstein mit Mieminger Kette. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • Pfanzelt Christian: Wetterstein Nord. Panico, 2003. ISBN: 3-926807-49-0.
  • Ritscher Bernd & Dauer Tom: Zugspitze - Menschen, Massen, Mythen. Bruckmann Verlag, 2001.
  • Zak Heinz: Wetterstein. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • AV-Karte: 4/2 (Wetterstein), 1:25.000.
  • Freytag & Berndt: 322 (Wetterstein-Karwendel), 1:50 000.
  • Kompass Karte: 07 (Werdenfelser Land mit Zugspitze), 1:35 000.
  • Topographische Karte: 8532/8632 (Garmisch-Partenkirchen), 1:25.000. Bayerisches Landesvermessungsamt München.
  • Beulke Stefan: Alpenvereinführer Wettersteingebirge. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • Eberle Bernd & Zak Heinz: Wetterstein Süd. Panico, 2001. Isbn: 3-926807-86-5.
  • Heinl Josepf: Wetterstein Gebirge. Odyssee Alpinverlag, 1988.
  • Pfanzelt Christian: Wetterstein Nord. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-926807-49-0.
  • Pfanzelt Helmut: Gebietsführer Wetterstein mit Mieminger Kette. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • Ritscher Bernd & Dauer Tom: Zugspitze - Menschen, Massen, Mythen. Bruckmann Verlag, 2001.
  • Zak Heinz: Wetterstein. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
Zugspitze (2962m)

Located at border between Austria and Germany in Wetterstein range, immediately south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Highest mountain in Germany and correspondingly popular. First ascent by G.Deutschl, Maier & K. Naus in 1820.

Jubiläumsgrat
6 km long, exposed ridge joining Zugspitze and Alpspitze (2620m). There are several summit starting from Zugspitze: Innere Höllentalspitze (2737m), Mittlere Höllentalspitze (2740m), Äussere Höllentalspitze (2716m), Vollkarspitze (2630m).
Jubiläumsgrat. Ferrata, II (via ferrata); 500m ascent, 800m descent. 1-2 days (There is Höllentalgrathütte bivouac hut between Mittlere and Äussere Höllentalspitze).
Popular climb during the summer. Possible on both directions.
NE Ridge
  • Höllental,from Hammersbach (780m)
Höllentalsteig (Bayerische Normalweg, NE ridge). Ferrata, F+/G2; via ferrata C; 7-8h, 2200m.
Normal route. Slightly harder than Tiroler normal route and considered to be nicer. It is possible to stay at Höllentalangerhütte (1379m) on the route.
  • Reintal, Zugspitzbahn station in Ehrenwald (1228m)
Tiroler Normalweg. Ferrata, I; 1750m, 6-7h from Zugspitzbahn station in Ehrenwald (1228m).
Normal route. Easiest route to the summit. It is Possible to sleep in Wiener-Neustädter Hut (2209m).

Karwendel

Karwendel lies mostly in Austria, between Inntal (Innsbruck) in the south, Wetterstein in West, Rofangebirge in East and Isar in the North. Most common bases are Innsbruck in the south, Achensee in East, Wallgau, Leggries and Eng in the north and Mittenwald, Seefeld, Scharnitz and Krön in the west.

  • Birkkarspitze (2749m)
  • Grosser und Kleiner Bettelwurf (2725m)
  • Solsteine (2637m)
  • Speckkarspitze (2621m)
  • Lamsenspitze (2508m)
  • Sonnjoch (2457m)
  • Erlspitze (2404m)
  • Westliche Karwendelspitze (2384m)
  • Schafreuter (2105m)
  • Sonntagkarspitze (2575m)
  • UK L 30 (Karwendelgebirge), 1:50 000. Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt.
  • AV-Karte: 5/1 (Karwendelgebirge West), 1:25 000.
  • AV-Karte: 5/2 (Karwendel Mitte), 1:25 000.
  • AV-Karte: 5/3 (Karwendel Ost), 1:25 000.
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 322 (Karwendel), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 323 (Achensee-Rofan-Unterinntal), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
  • Deml Robert: Wanderführer Karwendel - die schönsten Tal- und Höhenwanderungen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.
  • Eberle Bernd & Pasold Achim: Karwendel. Panico, 1997. Isbn: 3-926807-54-7.
  • Ehn Wolfgang: Bildband Karwendel. wt-Buchteam, 2002.
  • Klier W.: Alpenvereisnführer Karwendelgebirge Alpin. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • Zak Heinz: Bildband Karwendel. Verlag J. Berg, 1990.

Kaisergebirge (Wilder Kaiser)

Located to the east of Kanwendel and West of Rofangebirge. The area offers mostly rock climbs.

  • Ellmauer Halt (2344m)
  • Ackerlspitze (2329m)
  • Treffauer Kaiser (2304m)
  • Hintere Goinger Halt (2192m)
  • Scheffauer Kaiser (2111m)
  • Sonneck (2261m)
  • Pyramidenspitze (1997m)
  • AV-Karte: 8 (Kaisergebirge), 1:25 000.
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 301 (Kuftsein-Kaisergebirge-Kitzbuhel), 1:50 000. Freytag & Berndt.
  • Brandl: Rund um den Wilden Kaiser. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
  • Höfler H. & Schubert Pit: Wilder Kaiser. AS Verlag.
  • Stadler Markus: Wilder Kaiser - Band 1 - Niveau 3-6. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-936740-06-2.

Rofangebirge

  • Hochiss (2299m)
  • Rofanspitze (2259m)
  • Dalfázer Wände (2233m)
  • Sagzahn (2228m)
  • Vorderes Sonnwendjoch (2224m)
  • Haidachstellwand (2192m)
  • Salvenmoser Hannes & Rutter Mike: Rofangebirge. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-936740-05-4.

Berchtesgadener Alps

Berchtesgadener Alps lie mostly is Southeastern Germany but extend also to Austria. Saalach and Salzach rivers and Zeller See form natural borders. Range consist of Untersberg, Lattengebirge, Raiteralpe, Hochkaltergebirge, Wattzmannstock, Göllstock, Gotzenberge, Hagengebirge, Steinernes Meer and Hochkönigsstock. The highest mountain of the area is Hochkönig (2941m), located in Austria. However, the most famous mountain of the area is Watzamann (2713m, the second highest mountain in Germany).

Small city of Berchtesgaden is the central city of the area. Nearest major city is Salzburg on Austrian side of the border.

by train to Berchtesgaden
From Munich ( Timetable query) and Salzburg ( Timetable query)
  • Watzmannhaus
    • 1928m.
  • Wimbachgrieshütte
  • Hocheck-Unterstandshütte
    • 2653m.
  • Wimbachschloss
  • Mitterkasernalm
  • Biwakschachtel
    • 2340m.
  • Blaueishütte
  • hut info. Information, such as telephone numbers and opening times, about all the cabins taken care of by the German Alpine Club (DAV - Deutsche Alpenverein). (choose Berchtesgadener Alpen)

Statistically May, September and October are best months for climbing, as June and July are wettest months. Many high routes have snow until June (or longer). Some routes however are often dry in early spring, especially East face of Untersberg is a good destination for rock climbing during that time.

Climbing is mostly on rock. The most striking climbing destination of the area is 1800m high East Face of Watzmann, one of the biggest faces in the whole Alps. There are several routes from III upwards. Traverse over all three Watzmann summits is very popular (UIAA I-II, via ferrata, 2500m of ascent). Other popular climbing peaks are Hoher Göll and Untersberg. There are also several via ferratas. East Face of Hoher Göll is the classic ice face in the area.

UIAA rock grades are used for rock routes. As is typical in Austria, no overall grading system is generally applies.

  • Königsspitze (2941m)
  • Watzmann (2713m)
  • Schönfeldspitze (2653m)
  • Hochkalter (2607m)
  • Schärtenspitze (2153m)
  • Freytag und Berndt Wanderkarten: (Berchtesgaden, Bad Reichenhall, Königssee). , 2001. Isbn: 3850848167.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 14, 1:50 000.
  • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.4 (Berchtesgadener Alpen), 1:25 000. , 2001. Isbn: 3860384880.
  • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.1 (Nationalpark Berchtesgaden), 1:25 000. , 2001. Isbn: 3860380931.
  • Österreichische Karte: 93, 1:25 000. Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen.
  • Höfler Horst: Berchtesgadener Alpen. Rosenheimer Raritäten, 1993.
  • Höfler Horst & Zembusch Heinz: Watzmann - Mythos und Wilder Berg. 2001. Isbn: 3905111616.
  • Mittermeier Werner: Die Schönsten Hochtouren um Berchtesgaden. Berchtesgaden, 2002. Isbn: 3927957054.
  • Precht Albert: Hochkönig. Panico, 2002. Isbn: 3-926807-95-4.
  • Rasp Franz: Watzmann Ostwand. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1990. Isbn: 3763341412.
  • Schöner Hellmut: Berchtesgadener Alpen - Gebietsführer fur Wanderer und Bergsteiger. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2001. Isbn: 3-7633-3119-0.
  • Schöner Hellmut & Kühnhauser B.: AV-Führer Berchtesgadener Alpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1997. Isbn: 3-7633-1127-0.
Hochkönig (2941m)
Südwand
Gloria Patria. VI/eVII; 550m, 18 pitches, 6h.
Kesselpfeiler
Kesselpfeiler (Precht). VI/eVI-; 400m, 15 pitches, 4h.
Watzmann (2713m)

Highest mountain in the German part of Berchtesgadener Alpen and the second highest in Germany. Very popular. Traverse over three summits is popular route with UIAA II, via ferrata). 1800m high east face is one of the highest faces in the Alps and has several routes with technical difficulties starting at UIAA III. There are also several climbing routes on Klein Watzmann and Watzmannkinder.

  • Hocheck (2651)
  • Mittelspitze (2713m)
  • Südspitze (Schönfeldspitze) (2712m)
Watzmann, ,
Ascent		 During the fourth ascent of Ostwand, the first fatal accident took place as Christian Schöllhorn from Munich (Germany) fell 50 meters to the Bergschrung of a glacier, later known as Shöllhorngletscher. After the accident guides were officially forbidden to climb on Ostwand. The forbid was in force until 1909. From then on over 100 people have died on the mountain.
Watzmann, ,
Event		 East face, Herman Buhl
1784
Watzmann, ,
First ascent		 Hocheck, botanist Georg Anton Weitzenbach
1799
Watzmann, ,
First ascent		 Südspitze, Valentin Stanic, chaplain of Salzburg via Hocheck
1868
Watzmann, ,
First ascent		 Ostawand was climbed in its northernmost part
1871-02-01
Watzmann, ,
First winter ascent		 Johann Ilsanker ('Stanzl') with a partner
1881
Watzmann, ,
First ascent		 True first ascent however was made in 1881 as http://www.watzmann.de/homepage/berg/geschichte/kederbacher/kederbacher.html Johann Grill ('Kederbacher') succeeded to climb from Eiskapelle to the South Summit. Kederbacher (1835-1917) was the first authorised mountain guide in Germany. He studied the face with a telescope from Gotzenalm and found a route via two glaciers.
1898
Watzmann, ,
Event		 Cabin was build on Hocheck in 1898. In the same year some steps were cut in stone and rope protections were placed. Thus Watzmann became one of the first via ferratas in the Alps.
North ridge
Traverse Hocheck - Mittelspitze - Südspitze. Rock/ferrata, G2; II (via ferrata); 2500m, 10-15h, 26km (1-2 days). Johann Punz and Johann Stüdl, 1871.
Normal route. Wimbachbrücke 600 m - Watzmannhaus 1928 m 31/2 h, 902 Watzmannhaus 1928 m - Hocheck 2651 m I, 2 h, 921 Hocheck 2651 m - Mittelspitze 2713 m - Südspitze 2712 m II, 11/2-2 h, 922 Südspitze 2712 m - Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m 21/2-4 h, 941A Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m - Wimbachbrücke 600 m 21/2 h, 667

AV ##902,#921,#922,#941A,#667

Hocheck, Ostwand (Hocheck, East face)
Ostpfeiler "Goedeke". Rock, V+/eVI; 650m, 22 pitches, 6,5h.
Mittelspitze, Ostwand (Mittelspitze, East face)
Lapuch/Wieder. Rock, III-/eIII+; 700m, 4h.
Südspitze, Ostwand (Südspitze, East face)
1800 meter high Ostwand (thus highest face in Eastern Alps) was for long considered as impossible to climb until in 1881 a climber from Ramsau, a village on the foot of the mountain, finally succeeded. Nowadays Ostwand is not considered technically extremely difficult in climbers standards - for a lay man it's still Im-possible. The mere scale of the wall however makes it challenge enough for most climbers. There's bivouac hut at 2340m.
  • All routes begin at Eiskapelle (900m), the lowest located place on the Alps with permanent snow. Access by boat from Königssee.
Berchtesgadener Weg. Rock, III+/eIV+; 1800m, 7h.
Easiest of the routes on Ostwand. Found as an accident as trying to ascent Münchner Weg in 1947.

AV ##946

Kederbacherweg. Mixed/rock, IV-; 1800m.

AV ##945

Müchnererweg. Rock, IV; 1800m.

AV ##948

Salzburgerweg. Rock, IV+,A0; 1800m.

AV ##947

Frankfurterweg (Directissima). Rock, V; 1800m.

AV ##949

Klein Watzmann (Watzmannfrau)
Watzmannkinder
Hochkalter (2607m)

Located very close to Watzamnn, separated from it by a beautiful Wimbachklamm valley.Home to Blaueisgletscher, the northernmost glacier in the Alps. Blaueishütte (1680m), access from Hintersee (2,5h).
Hoher Göll (2522m)

Popular peak close to Salzburg. Normal routes are hikes with some easy climbing (Salzburger Steig, I; via Pflugtal, II, 5h; via Alpeltal, I), but there are tens of climbing routes, especially on West face. Some routes on the West face are extremely difficult, for example "caramouche" UIAA IX+/X-, done by famous Alexander & Thomas Huber.

West Face (Westwand)
Kleiner Trichter. ; 400m, 16 pitches, 4,5h.
Brandenstein (Alte Westwand). Rock, ; 280m, 10 pitches, 2,5h. Brandenstein, 1920.
Classic. Mostly solid, slabby rock. In the lower part, several more direct variants possible (IV or more). Bolts on stands.
West Face (Direkte Westwand). ; 4h. J.Aschauer & J.Kurz, 1921.
Partially loose and dangerous
West Ridge. ; 6-8h from Scharitzkehl. A. & G.Schulze, 1900.
Long panoramic ridge
East Face (Ostwand)
East Face (Ostwand). ; 8-9h from Golling. H.Pfanul & Th. Maischberger, 1899.
Also possible during the winter (April-May), then 820m ice route, 50°
East Face diedre (Kurt-Lager Gedächtnisweg, Ostwandverschneidung). ; 800m, 3-5h. F.Gruber, H.Hüttiger & G.Breistein, 1976.
East Face Direct (gerade Ostwand). ; 900m, 5h. Höllenbacher & Holzner, 1832.
North Face (Nordwand)
North Face Direct (Gerade Nordwand).
SW Face
SW Face. ; 3h. E.Gretschmann & J.Schmidt, 1924.
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge)
  • Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle's Nest, 1809m)
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge). I; 2,5-3h.
Via ferrata from Kehlsteinhaus. Can be climbed also without using the via ferrata, then II-IV depending on the chosen line.
Salzburger Steig. ; 2,5h. Stanig (probably earlier ascent by hunters), 1801.
From Purtscheller Haus
Torrenerjoch-Hoher Göll traverse. ; 4-5h.
Popular ridge traverse from Torrenerjoch (Stahlhaus, easily reached Jennerbahn ski lift) via Jägerkreuz, Hohes Brett, Grosse Archenkopf and Kleine Archenkopf to summit. Descent either along Mannlgrat to Kehlsteinhaus or Salzburger Steig to Purtscheller Haus.
Untersberg (1973m)

Located on the border of Germany and Austria, very close to city of Salzburg. There are several hiking paths to the two main summits (Salzburger Hochtron, 1853m and Berchtesgadener Hochtron, 1973m). Wide South Face has several rock climbs that are usually climbable early in the spring.

  • Salzburger Hochtron (1853m)
  • Berchtesgadener Hochtron (1973m)
Berchtesgadener Hochtron, South Face
  • East Face III-, II 390m, 2-3h Wieder & Hütter
  • Direkter Südostpfeiler (Schimkepfeiler) Popular route, stands equipped V+ (passages), mostly V and IV (or V-, A0) 300m, 3-4h H.Reisch & K.Schimke
  • South Face "Barth-Niedermayer" Very popular, bolted III+ (eIV) (passages), otherwise III and II 230m (9 pitches), 2-3h Barth & Niedermayer
  • Barthkamin IV+ (eVI+) 200m, 10 pitches
  • Hinterstoisser/Kurz VI or V,A0 (eVI+) 200m, 9 pitches
Salzburger Hochtron, East Face
  • Dreierweg Stands equipped III 300m, 2h L.Schifferer, H.Feichtner & V.Raitmayer
  • Diedre (Oswandverschneidung) Slab & crack climbing on good rock. Stands equipped IV- (passages), otherwise III 250m, 2h E.Schlager & S.Dumler
Salzburger Hochtron, South Face
  • South Arete IV, mostly IV- and III 150m (4 pitches), 2h Otte & co.
  • South Face Very popular. III- (10m), otherwise II 100m, 1h G.Starke

Dachstein

Further to the east lies Dachstein group. The area is very compact with dozen peaks above 2500m. The highest peak is Hohe Dachstein at 2995m. Other main peaks are Torstein (2948m) in the westernmost part of the massif, Mitterspitz (2926m) and Kopperkarstein (2863m). It is more glaciated than usually glacier free Bavarian Alps and it features the easternmost glaciers in the Alps. 7 of the glaciers are located on the north side of the main ridge and one on the south side.

Main bases are Ramsau (1136m) on the south side and Gosau (779m) on the north side. The area is very popular and features many huts, Dachstein Südwandhütte (1871m) and Adamekhütte (2196m) are probably the most popular among the climbers. There is a cable car fromRamsau to Hunerkogel which facilitates easy access to normal routes on Hohe Dachstein.

Besides few glacier routes it has several via ferratas and rock routes. South face of the main ridge is the most interesting feature from the climber's point of view. It is 8 km wide and 1000 meters high at the westernmost part at Torstein and only slightly less on Hohe Dachstein. Steinerweg and Pichlweg on the South Face of Hoher Dachstein are probably famous rock climbs. Torstein (2948m) Eisrinne (45-55°, 300m) is the classic ice route of the area. During the winter Dachstein is great for ski mountaineering.

  • AV-Karte: 14 (Dachstein Group".), 1:25 000.
  • Österreichische Karte: 126 (Radstadt), 1:50 000.
  • Österreichische Karte: 127 (Schladming), 1:50 000.
  • Österreichische Karte: 96 (Bad Ischl), 1:50 000.
  • End Willi: Alpenvereisnführer Dachsteingruppe Ost. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
  • Fischbacher Andi, Schall Kurt, Hoi Klaus & Lidl Ewald: Kletterarena Dachstein Süd - Auswahlführer für Klettersteige, Genussklettern, Sportklettern, Klettergärten und alpine Klassiker. Schall Verlag, 2004. Isbn: 3-900533-36-9.
Hoher Dachstein (2995m)

Hoher Dachstein is the main peak of the Dachsteingruppe, the highest peak of Styria and Upper Austria and the second highest peak of the Northern Limestone Alps. It's a lofty, rugged and beautiful peak, with glaciers to the North and a steep rock face to the south.

1832
First ascent
 P.Gappmeyer
East Face
  • Approach by cable car to Hunerkoger (2694m)
Randkluftsteig (NE Face). Ferrata, G3; II/Via ferrata B/C; 250m.
Normal route. Via Ferrata through East Face. Via ferrata starts at Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet Hut, 2720m).
West side
  • From Filzmoos (1055m) to Adamek hut (2196m)
Linzer Weg & traverse. PD-/G3; I+/via ferrata A/B; 250m/800m, 3,5h from hut to Hunekogen ski lift via East face klettersteig.
Via Gosau glacier to Obere Windlucke on the West Ridge. Also possible from Hunerkogel ski lift. Then along the west ridge (fixed gear) to the summit. West ridge is the easiest route on Hohe Dachstein. Descent via East face Klettersteig.
South Face
Der Johann (South Face Ferrata). Ferrata, Via Ferrata D/E; 1050m, Approach 2h, via ferrata 3h, descent to cable car 0,5h.
Very difficult Via ferrata from Dachstein Südwand hut (1871m) to Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet hut, 2720m). Along the East face via ferrata to summit.
Steinerweg. Rock, V-,A0, mostly IV and IV+; 850m (24 pitches), 5-9h. G. & F. Steiner, 1909.
Classic. Alpine rock classic.
Pichlweg. IV-, mostly II and III+; 700m, 4-6h. E. Pichl, F. Gams & F. Zimmer, 1901-07-27.
Torstein (2948m)

Located in the westernmost part of the massif.The second highest peak of the massif
Event

Central Eastern Alps (Austrian Alps)

West from the Bernina and Central Alps and between Northern and Southern ranges lie Central Eastern Alps, that consist of several mountain groups from. Western groups are glaciated, some of them excessively so. The area is best known for high-quality snow and ice climbing and ski-mountaineering. However, most areas feature good rock climbing, especially on the rocky towers of Zillertaler Alps. The most famous mountains of the area is Grossglockner (3798m) in Hohe Tauern. Further to the east, mountains are much lower and not glaciated.

While the mountains in the Central Eastern Alps are not as high and generally not as steep as in Western Alps, the normal routes on the most high peaks are in the F-PD range. There are, however, several more demanding classics on snow, ice or mixed ground, especially on and around Grossglockner and in Zillertal (Hochfeiler).

Lot of quality waterfall ice climbing is found in Austria. Propably the Best-known areas are Pitztal, Zillertal, Gasteinertal and Rudolfshütte (Grossglockner area).

Getting information about the climbs may not always be straight forward for foreign climbers, as most of the information is only available in German. Also, typically no overall alpine grade is used.

  • Friedrich C: Eiskalt 3: Bregenz & Garmisch. Panico, 1998. Isbn: 3926807649.
  • Jentzsch-rabl Axel, Abler Robert & Höllwarth Michael: Eisklettern in Tirol. Alpinverlag, 2005. Isbn: 3950092013.
  • Pasold Achim: Vorarlberg. Panico, 2003. Isbn: 3-926807-64-6.
  • Climbing in Austria. Plenty of good route descriptions about different kinds of climbs. Some of the descriptions include topos, photos and/or maps of the routes. Absolutely essential to any climber considering trip to Austrian Alps.
  • Tirol. Weather Reports, Panorama Camera, Accomodation, Ski Areas etc.

Rhätikon & Silvretta

Silvretta group is located at the easternmost part of Central Alps at the border between Switzerland and Austria. The most famous, although not the highest, mountain of the area is Piz Buin (3312m), located in Austria. The highest peak of the range, Piz Linard (3409m) is located in Switzerland. Silvretta group is heavily glaciated and is popular with summer and winter tourists.

Rätikon (or Rhätikon) is located in the the northern part of Swiss canton Grisons (Graubünden). It is popular among rock-climbers, especially amond alpine sport climbers, and hikers.

  • AV-Karte: 26 (Silvretta), 1:25 000.
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 37 (Rätikon-Silvretta-Verwall), 1:100 000.
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1198 (Silvretta), 1:25 000.
  • Condrou Bernard: Bündner Alpen 8 - Silvretta und Samnaun. SAC Verlag.
  • Eggenberger Vital: SAC-Kletterführer Rätikon. SAC Verlag, 1988.
  • Flaig: Alpenvereinsführer Silvretta Alpin. Bergverlag Rother.
  • Luginbühl Mario & Achim Pasold: Rätikon. Panico, 2002. Isbn: 3-926807-38-5.
  • Mathis Peter & Nuber Jörg: Rätikon Kletterführer. Isbn: 3926807385.
  • Meinherz Paul: Bündner Alpen 7 - Rätikon. SAC Verlag, 1989.
  • Pasold Achim: Kletterführer Rätikon. 1995.
  • Williams Jeff: Silvretta Alps. West Col, 1995.
Piz Linard (3411m)

Located in southern part of the group, some 25km away from Piz Kesch.The highest mountain in Silvretta group. Quite popular peak with several routes. SE Ridge (III), S Ridge (II) and North Ridge (II) all offer more interesting alternative to the normal route.
South side
  • Approach from Lavin im Unterengadin to Chamanna dal Linard hut (2327m)
South Face and SW Ridge. AD/G3; II-III; 4-5h.
Weilenmannrinne (South Flank). PD; II (passages) and I; 550m. 1600m, 10-11h roundtrip.
Normal route. Easiest route. Stone fall dander.
Piz Buin (3312m)

Piz Buin is the most famous mountain in the area and very popular both in summer and in winter.

  • Grand Piz Buin (East summit) (3312m)
  • Little Piz Buin (West summit) (3255m)
1865
First ascent
 J.A. Specht, J. Weilenmann, Pöll & Pfitcher
West side
via W Flank & NW Ridge. F+/PD; I+/II, 30°; 1280m, 4h.
Normal route. From Bielerhöhe (2036m) via Wiesbadener Hut (2443m). Either across Vermont glacier or via Ochsentaler glacier (crevasses) to Buinlücke (3056m). From there via West Face and NW Ridge to summit.
West Ridge. G3; 45°; 1700m, 6,5h.
From Guarda (1653m) via Chamanna Tuoi (2250m), Crosnel (2659m), Fuorcla Buin (3054m) and West Flank.
Silvrettahorn (3244m)
Dreiländerspitze (3197m)

Located in Silvretta, on the border between Switzerland, and Austrian Cantons of Tyrol and Vorarlberg.Architecrutally beautiful summit of ice and rock.
1870-07-14
Dreiländerspitze, ,
First ascent		 Doctor Theodor Petersen with unknown companions
NW Flank & W Ridge. Glacier, F+/PD/G3; I-II on the rock ridge between north summit and south summit, 30°; 750m, 2,5-3h.
Normal route. Easy glacier route with short snow slope and rock ridge. From Galtür (1584m) to Wiesbadener Hut (2443m) via Vermunt Glacier.

Ötztaler Alps

Ötztal range is located in Tyrol, Austria, just to the north of Inn Valley. The area are very popular and correspondingly has several huts. Best known objectives among the climbers are Wildspitze (3768m), Weisskugel (3738m)and Similaun (3599m). All of these have glacier ascents of around PD. North Faces of Wildspitze and Weisskugel are famous harder ice routes of the area.

  • Alpenverein: 30/2 (Ötztaler Alpen/Weisskugel), 1:25 000.
  • Alpenverein: 30/6 (Ötztaler Alpen/Wildspitze), 1:25 000.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 43 (Ötztaler Alpen), 1:50 000.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: WKS2 (Südliche Ötztaler Alpen).
  • Klier W.: Gebietsführer Ötztaler Alpen. Bergverlag Rother.
  • Klier W.: Alpenvereinführer Ötztaler Alpen alpin. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
  • Williams Jeff: Oetztaler Alps. West Col Publishing, 2000. Isbn: 0906227690.
Wildspitze (3770m)

Highest mountain in Ötztal Alps and 2nd highest mountain is Austria. Easiest ascent is short glacier climb thanks to cable car leading to Mittelberg. North and NW Faces are classic ice faces (300m).

  • South summit (3770m)
  • North summit (3765m)
North Face (Nordwand)
  • Approach 1070m, 4,5h from Taschachhaus (2432m)
North Face (Nordwand). Ice, AD+; 50°; 300m, 2,5h.
Classic. Classic ice climb with height of around 300m. During the summer passing the bergschrund can be the crux.
West side
  • From Taschach Haus over Taschachferner or from Breslauer Hut (2840m, 2h from Vent) in the south via via Mitterkarjoch (45°, I-II, M3). Also possible from Braunsweger hut (5h) or Mittelberg cable car station (4h).
via Mitterkarjoch. F/PD; 45°/M3, I-II; 950m, 3,5h.
Normal route. Glacier climb starting from Breslauer Hut (2840m) via Mitterkarjoch (45°, I-II, M3).
East side
Petersen Route. PD; II; 900m.
South side
Weisskugel (Palla Bianca) (3739m)

Second highest peak in Ötztal and 3rd highest in Austria. Can be climbed from five huts in different valleys. The normal routes join at Hinterersjoch (3471m). All normal routes are basic glacier ascents (F/PD-).

North side
  • From Weisskukugel hut (Rifugio Pio XI alla Palla Bianca, 2544m)
North Ridge. ; 1250m, 6-8h roundtrip from Weisskukugel hut.
Long glacier ridge route, one of the nicest routes in Ötztal. Both shorter and nicer than the normal route.
NW Face. Ice, ; 350m (face), 1200m (from Weisskukugel hut), 5-6h.
Good conditions normally only during the spring (around eastern)
Normal route. ; 1250m, 4h.
Normal route. The easiest way up is from Weisskugel hut (Rifugio Pio XI alla Palla Bianca, 2544m) up the Langtauferer Ferner to the Weisskugeljoch (this can be reached also from Hochjochspiz with similar difficulty). After that up to the summit in a loop from south east.
East Ridge. ; 900m, 5h.
From Rifugio Bellavista (2842m)
Similaun (3606m)

Located in Ötztal, Tirol,right on the border between Austria and Italy.
  • Similaun. Very good page with route list, access information, huts, informations resources. At MountainArea.

Stubaier Alps

Stubai range is located in Tyrol, Austria, just to the north of Inn Valley. The area are very popular and correspondingly has several huts. Best known objective among the climbers is Zuckerhütl (3507m). All of these have glacier ascents of around PD.

  • Zuckerhütl (3505m)
  • Ruderhofsspitze (3474m)
  • Östliche Seespitze (3416m)
  • Wilder Freiger (3418m)
  • Habicht (3277m)
  • Alpenvereinskarte: 31/1 (Hochstubai), 1:25 000.
  • Alpenvereinskarte: 31/5 (Innsbruck-Umgebung), 1:50 000.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 83 (Stubaier Alpen-Serleskamm), 1:50 000.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 36 (Innsbruck-Nrennen), 1:50 000.
  • Österreichische Karte: 174 (Timmelsjoch), 1:50 000.
  • Klier W.: Alpenvereinführer Stubaier Alpen alpin. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
  • Orgler Andreas: Stubaier Alpen. Panico, 1992. Isbn: 3-926807-21-0.
  • Williams Jeff: Stubai Alps and South Tirol. West Col Publish, 1991. Isbn: 0906227518.
Zuckerhütl (3505m)

Highest mountain in Stubai Alps and also the most popular.
1863
Zuckerhütl, ,
First ascent		 Specht & Tanzer
East side
  • Dresdner hut (2303m, approach with cable car)
East Ridge. Glacier, ; 1380m, 4h.
Normal route. Glacier Route from Dresdner hut via Pfaffensattel and East Ridge.
North Face
North Face. Ice, ; 200m.

Zillertal Alps

Zillertaler mountains are are typically jagged with sharp ridges, pinnacles and towers. Many glaciers are heavily crevassed and feature impressive icefalls. Most famous mountains are Hochfeiler (3509m), Grosse Möseler (3480m) and Grosse Löffler (3379), all of which have normal routes between F and PD-. More demanding classics of the area are North Faces of Hochfeiler and Hochferner and Northwest Face of Grosse Möseler.

  • AV-Karte: 35/2 (Zillertaler Alpen Central), 1:25 000.
  • AV-Karte: 31/1 (Zillertaler Alpen West), 1:25 000.
  • Kompass-Wanderkarte: 37 (Zillertaler Alpen-Tuxer Voralpen), 1:50 000.
  • Kompass-Wanderkarte: 82, 1:50 000.
  • Österreichische Karte: 149 (Lanersbach), 1:50 000.
  • Österreichische Karte: 150 (Zell am Ziller), 1:50 000.
  • Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertaler Alpen. Bergverlag Rother.
Hochfeiler (Gran Pilastro) (3510m)

Highest mountain in Zillertal.
1865-07-24
Hochfeiler, ,
First ascent		 P.Grohmann, P.Fuchs & G.Samer
North Face (Nordostwand)
  • Approach 1,5-2h from G.Messner Bivouac (2429m)
North Face (Nordostwand). Ice, AD+/D-; 55°, avg. 45°; 350m, 1,5-4h. F.Dyck & H.Hörhage, 1887.
Classic. Classic ice climb
SW side
  • From Pfitscherjochstrasse (~1800m) to Hochfeiler hut (2710m)
SW Ridge. F/PD-/G2; I (short passage); 950m, 3h.
Normal route. From hut via SW Flank and WSW Ridge
Hochferner (3463m)

Located in Zillertal, very close to Hochfeiler.North face is one of the longest ice faces in the Eastern Alps.

  • Hochferner (3463m)
  • Griessferner (Hochferner NW)
Hochfeiler, Nordwand
  • From G. Messner bivouac (2429m).
Ice, 45°, direct variant 80-85°; 950m.
ice climb
Griessferner, Nordwand
  • From G. Messner bivouac (2429m).
Griessferner. Ice, 50°, variants with 60-85°; 950m. B. Herbst, T. Hackl & H. Veiglhuber, 1942.
ice climb
Traverse from Hochfeiler. G1-2; 950m.
Grosser Möseler (3479m)

Second highest summit in Zillertaler Alps. Mostly climbed from southern (Italian) side as the northwest face (classic ice climb) is much harder than the southern side.

South side
  • From Näfesjoch hut (2407m)
From South. F+; 3,5h.
North side
  • From parking lot Zamsgattel am See (Schlegeisspeicher, 1782m) to Furtschagl hut (2293m). Gasthof Alpenrose (1873m) or Berliner Hut (2042m).
From West via S Ridge. PD-/G2-3; I and II (short passage), 35°; 1200m, 3,5h. W.Fickeis, F.Kirschker & G.Samer, 1878.
Normal route. normal route from the north side. Via Schlegeisoch, Furtscheglkeel (2727m) and Felsköpfl (2985m) to summit ridge. Glacier very crevassed.
Northwest Face (Firndreieck). Ice, 60° (avg. 53°) on NW Ridge 50°, II and III; 250m/1440m, 6-7h. Otto & Emil Zsigmondy, A.Böhm & Worafka, 1879.
Classic. Classic ice climb
Mittelfelsgrat (2 NO Grat & Schönbichler Horn). Rock, III+.
Classic ice climb
Olperer (3476m)
1879
Olperer, ,
First ascent		 Paul Grohmann, Jakob Samer and Jakob Huber via SE Ridge
Schneegupfgrat (Southeast Ridge)
  • From Olperer hut (2389m)
Schneegupfgrat (Southeast Ridge). ; 1090m, 3-4h. Paul Grohmann, Jakob Samer and Jakob Huber, 1879.
North Ridge
  • From Vals (1280m) to Geraer hut (2326m).
North Ridge. ; 1150m, 4h from Geraer hut. , .
Normal route. Easiest route. Short glacier approach folllowed by beautiful and exposed, but well protected climbing on the North Ridge.
SW Ridge
  • From Spannagel hut (2531m, access with ski lift)
SW Ridge. 950m, 7h.
From Spannagel hut via Wildlahnerscharte to SW Ridge and further to the summit.
Grosses Löffler (3376m)
From West via S Ridge. ; 1150m, 3,5h.
Normal route. Starting at parking lot at Dristenbachalm (1179m, accessible from Ginzling-Dornauberg (985m)) to Greizer hut (2227m). Via Flaitenkees and South Ridge to the summit. Creavassed glacier and moderate climbing in block terrain on the summit ridge.
Zsigmondyspitze (Feldkopf) (3087m)

Beautiful steep pyramide, "Matterhorn of Zillertal". One of the most important climbing mountains in Zillertal.
1879-07-24
Zsigmondyspitze, ,
First ascent		 Emil & Otto Szigmondy
South side
  • From Ginzling-Darrenberg (985m) to Berliner hut (2042m). Approach 2,5h (850m).
SE Ridge. AD-; III- (short passage), II; 200m, 1-2,5h. 1830m, 11h from Ginzling-Darrenberg. Emil & Otto Szigmondy, 1879-07-24.
South Ridge. V- (2 places), otherwise III and IV-; 1050m (technical part 200m), 5h.
Steep arete with good holds
North side
  • Floitengrund
  • NW Ridge IV+
  • ENE Face VI+
  • ENE Ridge (Feldkopfkante) V-, very nice climb

Hohe Tauern

Highest of the Austrian ranges is Hohe Tauern. It consists of several loosely knit groups, all of them heavily glaciated (more or less from west to east):

Riesenferner group
Riesenferner group.
Villgraten group
Riesenferner group.
Venediger group
<<more>>.
Granatspitz group
Glockner group
<<more>>.
Schoeber group
Schoeber group.
Goldberg group
Kreuzeck group
Kreuzeck group.
Ankogel group
<<more>>.

Most important summits of the area are Grossglockner (3798m) and Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m) in Glockner group, Grossvenediger (3666m) in Venediger group, Hochalmspitze (3360m) in Ankogel group, Hochschober (3240m) in Schober group, Hochgall/Collalto (3436m) in Rieserferner group and Hoher Sonnblick (3105m) in Goldberg group. <<more>>.

Southern Eastern Alps

Ortler Group

Ortler Alps lie in in South Tirol, northern part of Italy, south of Ötztal Alps of Austria and west of Dolomites. The area is bordered by Vinschgau in north, Etschtal (Meran) on NE and Nonstal in SE, Val di Sole in south, Valle delle Messi, Val di Gavia, Val de Braulie and upper Addatal (Veltlin). The area is heavily glaciated and is home to highest mountains of central Eastern Alps. Main ridge runs in a curve more or less from west to east with numerous subranges that connect to main ridge. There are also few smaller subgroups that are not connected to main ridge.

Ortler Alps consist of two sub groups, Ortles-Cevedale group located close to Sulden and Adamella-Presanelle group located further south. Highest and most famous peaks Ortler (3905m), Königsspitze (Gran Zebru), Monte Cevedale (3769m) and Zebru are located in Ortles-Cevedale group. Cima Presanella (3558m) and Monte Adamello (3554m) are the dominant peaks of the Adamello-Presanella group.

Both Ortler and Königsspitze (Gran Zebru) are classics along the normal routes. North Faces of Ortler, Königsspitze and Zebru as well as Langer Suldengrat on Königsspitze are likely the best known harder rock climb. In Adamella-Presanella group both Adamello and Presanella are reasonably straight-forward along the normal routes. North Face of Presanella (AD+/D-, 50-55°, 500m) is probably the best known climb in the area.

  • Holl Peter: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen. Bergverlag Rother, 2003. Isbn: 3763313133.
  • Holl Peter: Gebietsführer Ortleralpen. Bergverlag Rother, 1991.
  • Rochlittz Karl-Heinz: Südtirol für Bergwanderer, Band 1: Vinschgau, Ortler- und Sesvennagruppe, Ötztaler Alpen. Tappeiner-Verlag, 2003.
  • Schnörer Sepp: Hohe Routen - Ortler, Adamello, Brenta.
  • Zlobl Hans: Eiskalt 2: Salzburg. Panico, 1997. Isbn: 3926807571.

Ortles-Cevedale

The highest and most popular peaks of the area, Ortler (3905m), Königsspitze (Gran Zebru), Monte Cevedale (3769m) and Zebru are located on the western part of the main ridge.

Both Ortler and Königsspitze (Gran Zebru) are classics along the normal routes. North Faces of Ortler (D+, 50-60+°, I-, 1200m), Königsspitze (55-65°, IV, 700m, D+ - TD) and Zebru (55°, III, 870m) are considered classic harder routes. Langer Suldengrat is likely the best known harder rock climb. Tschenglser Hochwand (3375m) has a via ferrata (600m, 5h round trip from Düsseldorfer hut (2721m).

Suldental/val di Soldo

These are most readily accessed either from Sulden (in Suldental, 1906m) or from upper Addatal (Veltlin) where Bormio (1217m) is main city. Closest major city is Bolzano in Italy. Sulden can be reached by car from Bozen via Meran or from Fernpass via Landeck and Reschenpass. There's a train connection to Meran, from there Sulden can be reached by bus (SAD, change in Spondinig).

Suldental (val di Soldo) with the village of Sulden is the most common access to most of the frequented routes. There are number of huts and ski-lifts making accessing the climbs reasonably comfortable.

From the main valley Langensteinlift heads up to K2 hut (2330m). The hut itself can be used to access climbs on SE side of Ortler (Marlgrat) but it is most commonly used as a starting point to get to either Tabarettahütte (2556m, 1h from K2 hut) or Hintergrathütte (2661m). Main climb from Tabarettütte is Ortler North face. Further from Tabarettahütte it is possible to cross the main ridge to gain access to Payerhütte (3029m, 1,5h), located at the foot of Ortler's Tabaretta Ridge. There's also bivouac hut Lombardi on the Tabaretta ridge.

Schaubachtal has two important starting points, Hintergrathütte (2661m) and Schaubachtalhütte (2573m). The former is most conveniently accessed from Sulden via K2 hut, the latter with the lift directly from Sulden. Both huts can be used to reach several important climbs:

  • Ortler, Hintergrat
  • Königsspitze, North face
  • Königsspitze, Suldengrat
  • Zebru, North face

Bivacco di Cantu is located high up on Zebru providing access to Ortler's Hochjochgrat.

To NE of Sulden lies Zaytal with Zaytalhütte (Rifugio Serristorri, 2727m, 1,.5-2,5h from Sulden depending whether the lift is used). it is used for climbs on:

  • Hoher Angelus, North side
  • Hoher Angelus, West side
  • Verteinspitze, North side
  • Verteinspitze, West side
Tabarettatal

To the west of the main ridge lies Tabarettatal with village of Trafoi (1543m). In Tabarettatal the largest hut is Berglhütte which is used for:

  • Trafoier Eiswand
  • Thurwiserspitze, North face
  • Monte Zebru, normal route

There is also bivouac hut bivacco Pellicciolli (3230m, 5h from Trafoi), located close to Trafoier Eiswand and Thurwiserspitze.

Although Payerhütte (3029m) is located in Trabaretta valley, it is most commonly accessed from Suldental via Tabarettahütte.

Valfurva

Most climbs in the southern part of Ortles-Cevedale group are most readily accessed from Valfurva (1696m, S. Antonio).

From S. Antonio to Rifugio Campo and further to the road end at 2159m with valley taxi. From there to Rifugio V° Alpini-Bertarelli (2865m, 1,5h from the road end).

  • Thurwiserspitze, from south
  • Monte Zebru, normal route
  • Königsspitze, South side
  • Königsspitze, West side

Further south, road goes from Valfurva to Rifugio Forni (2176m) from where path leads to Rifugio Pizzini (2706m).

  • Königsspitze, normal route
  • Monte Cevedale - Palòn de la Mare traverse

Still further to the south, Rifugio Branca (2463m) is used to access the southernmost climbs of the area.

  • Palòn de la Mare, West side
  • Palòn de la Mare, South side
  • Punta San matteo, normal route
  • All peaks between Monte Cevedale and Pizzo Trésero from the west
Ortler (Cima Ortles) (3905m)

The highest mountain in the Ortler Alps of Italy. Well glaciated of offers good quality snow and ice climbing from all directions.
1804
First ascent
 Joseph Pichler and party, by command of Archduke John of Austria
  • Messner Reinhold: König Ortler. Tappeiner-Verlag, 2004.
  • Pusch Wolfgang: Ortler. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004. Isbn: 3-7633-7027-7.
North Face
Classic ice face, the longest and probably the most famous one in Eastern Alps. North face is framed by Tabarettaridge (North Ridge) and Marltgrat (NE redge). Usually best conditions between March and end of June and in October.
  • From Tabaretta hut (2556m, 20min). Access from Sulden.
Nordwand (North Face). Ice, IV D+; IV/AI2/50-60°, I-; 1200m. 4-8h from Tabaretta hut (2556m). Ertl & F.Schmid, 1931.

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #24; Jentzsch-Rabl #56

Tabarettagrat (North Ridge)
  • From Sulden to Tabaretta hut (2556m) and further via Bärenkopfscharte (2871m) over North Ridge to Payerhütte (3029m), located at the base pf Tabasretta ridge.
Tabaretta Ridge (Tabarettagrat, Ortler Glacier Route). II PD+; III/II,A0, 45°; 900m, 3-4h from Julius Payer Hut (3029m). J.Payer & J.Pinggera, 1865-09-04.
Normal route. Easiest route and very popular

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #22

NNE Ridge (Rothbockgrat). D+; 2300m, 8h.
From Tabarettahütte, joins Marlergrat right before the summit and follows its upper part to top.
Hintergrat (ESE Ridge, Coston di Dentro, Ostgrat)
  • Hintergrat Hut/Rifugio del Coston (2661m, access 2-2,5h from Sulden)
Hintergrat (ESE Ridge, Coston di Dentro). PD+/AD/G4; II+-III,A0/IV-V, 45°; 550m/1240m, 5-6h from Hintergrat Hut/Rifugio del Coston (2661m).
Popular climb. From Hintergrathütte via Signalkopf (3725m) to summit.

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #23

Hochjochgrat (South Ridge)
  • From Bivacco Citta di Cantu (3535). Acces either from V° Alpini Hut in Tabarettatal (easier) or from Hintergrathütte in Suldental via steep snow/ice couloir.
Hochjochgrat (South Ridge). Mixed/rock, D-; IV (several points), mostly III,A0, 50°; 1300m. O.Schuck, P.Dangl and A.Pinggera, 1875.
Classic. Classic climb
Westgrat (Meranergrat)
  • Berglhütte
West Ridge (Westgrat, Meranergrat). Mixed,
East Ridge (Ostgrat, Marltgrat)
  • K2 hut
East Ridge (Ostgrat, Marltgrat). D; 2200m, 6-7h.
Monte Zebru (3740m)

Located between Ortler in NW (Hochjoch, Bivacco Cittá di Cantó) and Gran Zebru (Königsspitze) in SE (Suldenjoch).

  • Monte Zebru (3740m)
  • Monte Zebru (3723m)
NW summit, North Face
NW summit, NE Face. IV and III, 55°; 850m, 5-7h (face only). Kurt Diemberger, 1956-09-20.
NW summit, NW Face. IV and III, 55-60°; 750m, 8-10h (face only). K.Richter, A.Pichler & H.S.Pinggera, 1937-08-06.
NW summit, West side
  • From Alpini hut (2878m, Rifugio V° Alpini-Bertarelli)
NW Flank & W Ridge. PD-; 35-40°, I; 850m, 4h from Alpini hut. J.Pinggera & J.Payer, 1866-09-29.
Normal route. Over Zebru glacier
West Face. Ice, 55°; 500m. D.Chiesa & A.Zavattarelli, 1895-08-06.
ice face
West Ridge. Ice, III, mostly II and I, 45°; 700m, 3-4h from Alpini hut. A.Baracossa, G.B.Confortola & P.Pietrogiovanna, 1890-07-16.
NW Summit, South side
Traverse from SE summit. 55°; 400m distance, 20m ascent. 3/4-1h. B.Minnigerode & A.Pinggera, 1880-09-03.
SE summit, North Face (SO Gipfel, Nordostwand)
  • Hintergrat Hut (2661m, approach 45 min.)
SE summit, North Face (SO Gipfel, Nordostwand). Ice, 55°, III/IV-; 870m, 5-7h (including descent). Beatrice Tomasson, H.S.Pinggera & F.Reinstadler, 1898-08-25.
Classic. Classic ice climb, best conditions between May-June. Starting point is Hintergrat Hut (2661m, approach 45 min.).

Jentzsch-Rabl #57

SE summit, South side
SE summit, SE Ridge. III+, 55°. B.Minnegerode & A.Pinggera, 1800-09-03.
Königsspitze (Gran Zebru) (3851m)

Beautiful pyramid, quite possible the most majestic mountain of the Ortler group.
1854-08-24
Königsspitze, ,
First ascent		 Stefan Steinberger via SW Flank
North Face (Nordwand)
  • Approach from Hintergrat Hut (2661m) 3-5h
Ertl. Ice, TD-; 55-65°, IV (one passage); 700m, 3-6h (climb itself). H.Ertl & H.Brehm, 1930.
Popular, long and difficult mixed north face. Cold conditions are necessary for a safe ascent.

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #29; Jentzsch-Rabl #58

Schaumrolle (Direkte Nordwand, Diemberger). Ice, 55-90(+)°; 625m. Kurt Diemberger, Unterweger & Knapp, 1956-09-22.
mixed, more difficult than Ertl-route. Crux is very steep cornice at the top (fallen off several times after the first ascent).
Brigatti-Zangelni (Nordostwand). Ice, L.Brigatti & E.Zangelni, 1937-08-05.
Pure ice route.
Minnigerode (Nordostwand). Ice, 45-53°; 550m, 2,5-4h. B.Minnigerode, J. & A.Pinggera & P.Reinstadler, 1881-09-21.
Pure ice route, usually best conditions in May and June.
Suldengrat (NE Ridge)
  • Hintergrat Hut/Rifugio del Coston (2661m, access 2-2,5h from Sulden)
Langer Suldengrat. III D-; IV and III, 55-60°; 1100m, climbing distance 2500m, 6-10h from Hintergrat hut. J.Meurer, A. Pallavicini, P.Dangl, A. & J.Pinggera, 1878-07-06.
Classic. From Hintergrat hut via Suldenjoch (3455m, IV (one point), 45-53° up to Suldenjoch), from there IV and III, 55-60°. Descent 3,5h to Casati hut.

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #28

Kurzer Suldengrat. IV- and III, 55-60°; 400m, climbing distance 1200m, 3-5h from Suldenjoch. Approach 2h from Alpini hut to Suldenjoch. A.Jörg, R.Levy, J.Grill (Kederbacher) & S.Reinstadler, 1880-07-26.
Classic. From Alpini hut to Suldenjoch (3455m). From there along upper Suldengrat to summit.
SE Spur
  • Either from Santa Caterina via Alberto Forno (2170m) and Pizzini hut (2700m) or from Sulden via Schaubachhütte (2573m) and Rifugio G. Casati (3254m).
East side
  • From Sulden via Schaubachhütte (2573m)
East Flank (Ostwand). G4; 45-50°; 650m, 3h. J.A.Specht & F.Pöll, 1864-09-17.
In good conditions pure ice/firn up to 45-50°, with less ice also rock up to UIAA III.
ENE Ridge (Nordostsporn). Mixed, G5; III (sections), mostly II and I, 50° (short passages), otherwise 45°; 1100m, climbing distance 1800m, 5-6h. P.Drasch & J.Jurek (part), 1886-09-06. V.Swoboda d'Avignon, H.Friedel, J.Pichler & F.Schöpf, 1894-08-27.
From Schaubach hut (2581m) via Suldenferner and ENE Ridge.
Suldenspitze (Cima di Solda)
über Suldenferner. .

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #31

Monte Cevedale (3769m)

Glacier peak with double summits, Cevedale and Zufallspitze. Usually frequented by ski alpinists during the spring.
Palòn de la Mare (3703m)
Traverse from Monte Cevedale. .

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #33

Normal route. .

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #34

Punta San Matteo (3678m)
Normal route. .

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #35

Grosser Angelus (Hoher Angelus) (3521m)

Located close to Sulden
NW Ridge
  • from Düsseldorfer hut (2721m). Access to hut 2-2,5h from Sulden.
NW Ridge (Reinstadler). Mixed, PD-; II; 800m, 7h from Düsseldorfer hut (2721m).

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #20

Nordwestwand
Nordwestwand. Ice, 75°, direct variant 80°; 200m.

Jentzsch-Rabl #59

Vertainspitze (Cima Vertana) (3545m)
Nordwand
Nordwand. 80°, direct variant 90°; 500m.

Jentzsch-Rabl #60

Traverse. .

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #21

Grosser Eiskogel (Grande Cono di Ghiaccio) (3535m)
Nordwand
Nordwand. 50°; 400m.

Jentzsch-Rabl #55

Kleiner Eiskogel (Piccolo Cono di Ghiaccio) (3503m)
Nordwand
Nordwand. 45°; 300m.

Jentzsch-Rabl #54

Thurwieserspitze (Punta Thurwieser) (3652m)
Westgrat
Ridge joining Thurwieserspitze and Trafoier Eiswand
  • bivacco Pellicciolli (3230m, 5h from Trafoi)
Bäckmanngrat (Westgrat, Cresta di Backmann). .

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #25

Ostgrat
  • Rifugio V° Alpini
Ostgrat. AD; 50°; 774m, 3h.

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #26

Trafoier Eiswand (Cima di Trafoi) (3565m)
Trafoier Eiswand
  • bivacco Pellicciolli (3230m, 5h from Trafoi)
Trafoier Eiswand. .

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #25

Adamello-Presanella

Adamello-Presanella group lies further south of main Ortler Group. Despite its southern location, the area boasts Mandrone glacier, the biggest one in Italy. Cima Presanella (3558m) and Monte Adamello (3554m) are the dominant peaks of the area. North Face of Presanella (AD+/D-, 50-55°, 500m) is probably the best known climb in the area.

Main village for accessing climbs in Adamello-Presanella -group is Pinzolo (765m).

From there access to Rifugio Bedale (1584m)) in Val Genova and further to Rifugio Mandrane Citta di Trento (2449m)

  • Cresta della Crose, Nortdostgrat
  • Labbbia Alta, Südrücken
  • Adamella, normal route

Malga Vallina d'Arola (1911m, road) in Val Nambrey) and further to Rifugio Segutini (2373m, 1,5h).

  • Presenalle, SE side
  • Val Camonica (Adamello). at Guide Alpine della Lombardia.
  • (Gruppo dell'Adamello-Presanella), 1:25000. Edizioni Multigraphic.
  • Carta delle zone turistische d'Italia (TCI): (Adamello), 1:50 000.
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 71 (Adamello - Presanella), 1:50 000.
  • Touring Club Italiano: D63 (Gruppo Adamello-Presanella), 1:50 000.
  • Gatti Norbert: Kleiner Führer durch die Adamello- und Presanellagruppe". Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
  • von Lichem Heinz: Adamello-, Presanella- und Baitonegruppe". Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1978. Isbn: 3-7633-2312-0.
Cima Presanella (3558m)

Located between Ortler group in the north and Amadello massif in the south in Ortler Alps.There are several middle grade (AD-TD) ice routes on the north side.
1859
Cima Presanella, ,
First ascent		 anonymous climbers
South side
  • From Rifugio Segantini (2373m), From Val Genova (900m) to Bivacco Roberti (2205m)
Normal route from SE (Südostanstieg). PD; II, 38°; 1200m, 4-5h from Rifugio Segantini (2373m).
Normal route. A Varied high route with short glacier sections interpersed with easy climbing and a snow ridge

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #38

South Ridge. G2-3; I+.
From Bivacco Roberti
North side
  • From Pizzano (1200m) in Val di Vermiglio to Rifugio Denza (2298m), 4-5h. 2-2,5h from the hut to the start of the climbs
North Arete (Sperone Nord). AD; 55°; 500m. G. Jahn & V. Sohm, 1908.
A valid alternative to the Parete Nord. More varied than Parete Nord due to the number of mixed sections.
North Face (Parete nord). II AD+/D-; 50-55°; 500m (start at 3050m), 2,5-5h for the face. R. Grandi & R. Crugnola, 1949.
Highly popular classic that steepens slightly near the top. Generally plenty of snow.

Jentzsch-Rabl #61

Cima Adamello (3554m)

Famous and very popular peak located in Italy between Lombardia and Trentino. There are three normal routes: from Lombardy (NE) via Val d'Anio and Garibaldi Hut (UIAA I), from Val di Genova (NE) and Rifugio Cittá di Trento al Madrane (UIAA I) and from Malga Fabreca (south) via Rifugio Prudenzini (UIAA I, propably the most climbed route). Adamello is the highest point of an important mountain group in central alps, beautiful and interesting for the vast and flat glaciers of Pian di Neve, Mandorne, Lobbia, Lares and Pisgana. Especially the first, immediatly under the top, is a huge glacier of many square kilometers. Normal climbing routes come from Val di Genova (close to Madonna di Campiglio ski area) and Passo del Tonale; from this area is easy to arrive till 3000m by cableway, then going down till 2500m and then up to the top through mandrone and pian di neve glaciers. //

1949
Cima Adamello, ,
First ascent		 R. Grandi & R. Crugnola
NE Side
  • Cittá di Trento al Madrane (2449m)
NE Side. PD-, I-II; 30°; 1090m, 6h from Cittá di Trento al Madrane (2449m).

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #37

SW Ridge
  • From Malga Premassane (1585m) via Miller Valley to Rifugio Gnutti (2166m). From there via ferrata Terzulli to Bivacco Ugolini in Passa Adamello (3240m).
SW Ridge from Val Miller and via ferrata Terzulli. AD-/G3; II, 45° (150m, 40°/400m)°. Backhause, Fox, Freshfield, Tuckett, Devouassoud & Michel, 1865.
Basic snow/ice climb. From Malga Premassane (1585m) via Miller Valley to Rifugio Gnutti (2166m). From there via ferrata Terzulli to Bivacco Ugolini in Passa Adamello (3240m) and along S Ridge to the summit.
Cresta della Croce (3278m)
Nordgrat
  • Rif. Lobbia Alta (3020m)
Nordgrat.

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #37

Lobbia Alta
Südrücken
  • Rif. Lobbia Alta (3020m)
Südrücken.

Schmitt & Pusch, 2004 #37

Dolomites & Garda

Dolomites are located in northern Italy. Their name comes from the mineral dolomite which is common in the rocks, colourful dolomitic limestone. Although Dolomites are relativeley low, the mountains are very dramatic featuring characteristic limestone pinnacles and spires and high vertical or overhanging faces, some of them over 1000 meters high. The highest peak of the Dolomites is Marmolada (3342m). However, propably the most famous is Cima Grande (2999m), a classic climbing peak with impressive North Face.

Access to climbs is easy as the Dolomite region has excellent roads, which are used today as geographical boundaries when dividing the range into smaller groups. Many of the villages in the area, like so many others throughout the Alps, have become well-organized tourist attractions. Generally the best approach to climbing here is to establish a central base in a hotel or camp area, and make excursions from there. Most climbs can be done in a day from the car, but some are best approached from a high alpine hut. Apart from glaciers of Brenta Group and Marmolada, there is little snow or ice in the Dolomites, and that which does occur melts away by May, thus conditions are very good for rock climbing.

Dolomites is (for a reason) considered to be rock climbing mecca of the Alps. The terrain in the Dolomites is steep and complex. But the rock is amazingly featured and seemingly unclimbable walls can go free at only moderate levels of difficulty. Hoever, serious technical routes are plentiful. Beside normal rock climbing, Dolomites are well-known for via-ferratas. With the aid of metal ladders and cables, these routes ascend cliffs which would otherwise be either extremely difficult or even impossible. They allow access to an exposed high alpine environment which would otherwise be inaccessible to many climbers.

Garda region is very popular outdoor destination. For climbers it offers plenty of via ferratas and rock climbing, although the climbs are not as big as in some other parts of Dolomites.

There are also ice climbing in the area. Alpine ice is found mainly in Brenta group in the northern part of Dolomites. Cima Brenta Nordrinne and North Couloir of Cima Tosa are considered classics. During the winter there is also waterfall ice climbing.

  • Tabacco: 05 (Gröden-Seiser Alm), 1:25 000.
  • Tabacco: 06 (Val di Fassa), 1:25 000.
  • Goedeke Richard: Südöstliche Dolomiten. Bergverlag Rother.
  • Goedeke Richard & Kammerer Hans: 3000er der Dolomiten. Bruckmann.
  • Hüsler Eugen E.: Dolomiten-Klettersteige. Denzel-Verlag. Isbn: 3-7654-3679-8.
  • Hüsler Eugen E.: Klettersteigatlas Alpen. Bruckmann.
  • Hüsler Eugen E.: Mangart.

Brenta Dolomites

  • Alpenvereinskarte: (Brentagruppe), 1:25 000.
  • Steinkütter Heinz: Alpenvereisnführer Brenta. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1988.
Cima Tosa

Highest peak in Brenta Group in northern Dolomites.
Cima Brenta
North side
Nordrinne (North gully). Ice, AD; 45°, II; 350m, 1-2h. Approach from Rifugio Tuckett (2272m), 2h.
Relatively quiet and unknown ice route
Campagnile Basso
Graffer Arete. Rock, ; 350m (13 pitches), 5-7h from Brentei hut + 120m (4 pitches), 2h. Vergilio Neri (solo), 1929.
Combination of SW Arete and NE Aretes.

Western Dolomites

Sella Dolomites and Sassolungo-Langkofelgruoppo (Alto Adige)
Marmolada Glacier
Catinaccio, Latemar, Pale di San Martino
  • Tabacco: 07 (Hochabtei-Livinallongo), 1:25 000.
  • Touring Club Italiano: D56 (Val Gardena), 1:50 000.
  • Goedeke Richard: Alpenvereisnführer Langkofel, Sella Extrem. Bergverlag Rother.
Marmolada (3342m)
  • Marmolata di Penia (3342m)
  • Marmolada di Roccia (3309m)
1864
Marmolada, ,
First ascent		 P.Grohmann, A. & F.Dimai
West Ridge
  • Apporoach from top of the ski lift (Pian dei Fiacconi, 2626m) over glacier
Hanns-Seiffert-Weg (West Ridge). Ferrata, PD/G1-2; I; 3,5h.
Via ferrata starting at Marmolata Col.
North Face
North face is the only real glacier of Southern Dolomites.
  • top of the ski lift (Pian dei Fiacconi, 2626m)
Normal Route from North. F+/PD/G1-2; 30°; 700m, 1,5-2h.
Normal route. Glacier route with crevasses. Starting at the top of the ski lift (Pian dei Fiacconi, 2626m), the route climbs the glacier on Marmolada's north side.
North Face. Ice/mixed, AD+; 50-55°, II-III; 650m, 4h. Approach 0,5h (75m) from Pian dei Fiacconi (2626m).
South Face
South Face is 4km wide and 850 wide steep rock wall with two distinct summits, Marmolada di Penia and Marmolada di Roccia.
  • Rifugio Falier
Moderne Zeiten. Rock, 6c/VII+ (1 pitch), mostly VI+ and VI); 800m (27 pitches). Mariacher & Javane, 1982.
Vinatzer with Messner exit. Rock, VI+ and VI, mostly V and V+. Upper part mostly II and V, with one pitch each of VI and VI+; 800m/30 pitches, 8-10h. G.B.Vinatzer & E.Castiglari in 1936 (main route) and Reinhold Messner, 1969.
via Classica. Rock, IV+/IV, mostly III/5.6, mostly 5.5 and easier; 650m, 10h round-trip from the Rifugio Falier. M. Bettega, B. Tomasson & B. Zagonel, 1902.
Langkofel
Piz Boé

Located in Sella Group
Pordoispitze
Pordoiwand (NW Face)
  • Pian Schiavaneis (1877m)
Fedele. Rock, D; IV+; 800m.

Eastern Dolomites

Cadore Dolomites
Sexten Dolomites/Dolomiti di Sesto
Cortina Dolomites
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: WKS5 (Gröden-Cortina-Marmolada), 1:50 000.
  • Tabacco: 025 (Dolomiti de Zoldo, Cadorine e Agordino), 1:25 000.
  • Tabacco: 03 (Cortina d'Ampezzo"), 1:25 000.
  • Kubin Andres: AV Führer: Dolomiten Civettagruppe. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1980.
Tofana di Rozes (Rosengarten)
South Face
  • Rifugio Angelo Dibona (2050m)
Primo Spigolo (First S Face Pillar, South Arete). Rock, II D+; 5a/V; 320m (14 pitches).
via Classica. Rock, IV+; 800m (19 pitches).
Pilastro (Südwandpfeiler). Rock, VII+; 500m.
Normal Route. PD; 1200m, roundtrip 4-5h from Rifugio Angelo Dibona (2050m).
Via ferrata Giovanni Lipella. Ferrata, ; 1200m, roundtrip 4-5h from Rifugio Angelo Dibona (2050m).
Traverse. Ferrata, ; 2 days (7-8h + 10-11h),.
Combination of via ferrata Giovanni Lipella, via ferrata Olivieri & via ferrata Tofana di Mezzo. Overnight at rifugio Giossani.
Civetta

First ascent of Nortwestwand by Gustav Lettenbauer & Emil Solleder in 1925 was the first alpine route of grade VI in the Alps.
Nordwetswand
First ascent of Nortwestwand by Gustav Lettenbauer & Emil Solleder in 1925 was the first alpine route of grade VI in the Alps.
Via Solleder-Lettenbauer. Rock, TD+; 5c/VI and V+; 970m (distance 1300m), 8-12h. Gustav Lettenbauer & Emil Solleder, 1925.
Classic. Classic rock climb, very popular. Several pegs in situ. Difficult retreat.
Via Emilio Comici-Giulio Benedetti. Rock, VI+; 1050m (distance 1500m), 12-18h. Emilio Comici & Giulio Benedetti, 1931.
High alpine rock climb with poor rock. Much harder than "Via Solleder-Lettenbauer".
West Face
West Face. IV, mostly III; 10 pitches.
Via ferrata degli Alleghesi. Ferrata, II and I, via ferrata; 1600m, 10h (6+4) from Forcella Álleghe (1816m).
The route was stiff grade IV before the via ferrata was build.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) (2999m)

The highest peak of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Group, and one of the most famous peaks of the Dolomites. The massive and overhanging North Face was widely believed to be impossible until it was finally climbed in 1958 by Dietrich Hasse. Today there are tens of routes on the face.

  • Cima Grande (2999m)
  • Westliche Zinne (2973m)
  • Kleine Zinne (Cima Piccola) (2857m)
Cima Grande, North Face
The massive and overhanging North Face was widely believed to be impossible until it was finally climbed in 1958 by Dietrich Hasse. Today there are tens of routes on the face.
Comici. ED-; 7-/e VI-/V+,A0/5.10c/5.8,A0. E.Comici, G. & A. Dimain, 1933.
Classic. Classic alpine rock climb on the North Face of Cima Grande.
Dibona (Dibona-kante). D; 4/e V-/5.7; 400m (18 pitches). A Dibona & E.Stübler, 1909.
Classic. Classic alpine rock climb. 4 if the crux part is avoided by climbing on the East Face (2-3), if the crux is climbed directly on the arete 5-.
Hasse-Brandler. ED; 8+/e VII/VI,A2/5.12; 600m (18-22 pitches), 6,5h. Hasse, Branddler, Lehner & Löw, 1958.
Classic. Classic alpine rock climb on the North Face of Cima Grande.
via Dulder. TD; V+; 300m.
Cima Grande
Normal route of Cima Grande. AD-; 3/e IV/5.5; 500m. F.Innerkofler & Salcher Grohmann, 1869.
Kleine Zinne, Südwand
Egger-Sauschek. VI+; 300m.
via delle Guide. D.
Westliche Zinne, Nordwand
Cassin. VIII; 500m.
Torre Trieste

Located in the Civetta Group
South Face
Voie Carlesso. Rock, VI+,A2; 700m. R.Carlesso & B.Sandri, 1934.
South Arete. Rock, . Ricardo Cassin & V.Ratti, 1935.
Cinque Torri (2252m)
Torre Grande, East Face
  • Cinque Torri hut
via Finlandia. Rock, VI+/5.10b; 100m/3 pitches. Matti A. Jokinen, 1935.

Julian Alps

Julian Alps, located in Slovenia, are the easternmost part of the Alps. The rock of the area resembles the limestone of Dolomites. Althought the mountains are not as striking as the Dolomites, the climbing is of good quality. Slovenian Alps see far less tourists than other parts of the range thus is is a good place to go, if enjoying mountain solitude is high on the priority list.

The most stunning peaks of the area are to be found near Austrian and Italian borders. Here lies also Triglav (2863m), the highest peak of the range. Other highlights include Sklartica (2740m), Magart (2678m) and Jalovec (2645m). All of the above mentioned mountains are covered with classic, multi-pitch rock climbs. Although the range has no glaciers, there are several winter routes, especially on Triglav.

  • (Triglav Nationalk Park), 1:25 000. Planinska Zveza Slovenije.
  • (Triglav Nationalk Park), 1:50 000. JUlian Alps - Eastern Section.
  • (Julian Alps - Triglav), 1:25 000. Planinska Zveza Slovenije.
  • Collomb Robin G: Julian Alps. West Col, 1990. Isbn: 0901516899.
  • Michelic Tine: Mountaineering in Slovenia - The Julian Alps. Siudarta, 2003. Isbn: 9616027360.
  • Schöner Hellmut & Brandstätter Karl: Alpenvereinsführer Julische Alpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1989.
Triglav (2863m)

Southern and eastern faces have some routes. However, by far the most sought after climbing destination is Stena, the North Face. It has great number of routes ranging between moderate alpine classics and desperate. Most of the climbs are started from Aljaz Lodge (1015m), conveniently located in Vrata valley, below the north face. Access to it is from village of Mojstrana (11km by road or 2,5h walk in). Mojstrana is located some 10km away from Jesenice, which can be reached by t6rain from Villach (Austria) or Ljubljana. Ljublsjana, located only 50km away, is the closest international airport.

  • Klinar Stanko: How to climb Triglav/triglav, ein kürzer Führer. Planinska Zveza Slovenije, 1991.
North Face (stena)
The North Face (Stena) is 1000m high two kilometres wide wall of limestone, one of the grandest walls in Eastern Alps. The easiest routes on the Face follow large chimney/gully systems and are graded II or III. However, some sections are really steep, notably the Sphinx in the upper right part of the face - a partially vertical, partially overhanging tower on the right side of the Face dropping from a point on the West Ridge.
  • 1,5h walk from Aljaz hut (1015m)
Bavarian route (Bavarska Smer). IV+; 700m, 4-5h. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m). Georg Kuglstatter & Hans Unger, 1926-09-06.
German route (Nemska Smer). D+; IV-; 1200m. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m).
Slovenian route (Slovenska Smer). III, mostly II; 800m. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m).
Tominsek Route. Ferrata,
Normal route. From Aljaz hut (1015m) via Tominsek-Weg (via ferrata) to Triglav hut (2515m). Further along East Ridge (via ferrata) to summit.
WSW Ridge - SE Ridge. F; 1850m.
Skrlatica (2740m)
Mangart (2678m)
Jalovec (2645m)

Southern Eastern Alps are located mainly in Italy and Slovenia with northern parts reaching into southern Austria. The area consist of groups of very different character: where Ortler Group furthest to the West has high mountains with excessive glacier and mostly snow and ice climbs, Dolomites and and Julian Alps further to the east are much lower and are well known for rock climbs.

[General | Central Alps | Bernina Alps and Bregaglia | Northern Eastern Alps (Northern limestone Alps) | Central Eastern Alps (Austrian Alps) | Southern Eastern Alps]
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