East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe. Credit: Ari Paulin,  Shot on 2009-06-21 Photo taken in , Austria.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.
East side of Grossglockner from Franz-Josefs Höhe. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2009-06-21 Photo taken in , Austria.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.

General

Groups located to the east of division line is Nufenenpass - Grimselpass - Lucerne - Zürich. Eastern Alps consist of numerous mountain groups and sub groups. Alpine Clubs made official structure back in 1984 which is used in most guidebooks and maps. The structure on this site is consistent with this division. However, areas that are less interesting for mountaineering and alpinism may be grouped together to form larger groups. Also few mountain groups, officially associated with Western Alps are grouped together with western areas of Eastern Alps under the heading Central Alps.

  • Jentzsch, Andreas & Jentzsch-Rabl, Axel: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen - Auswahlführer mit 84 Tourenvorschlägen für Österreich, Südtirol und die Schweiz. Isbn: 9783950092004. Alpinverlag Jentsch-Rabl, 2004.
  • Schmitt, Edwin & Pusch, Wolfgang: Hochtouren Ostalpen - 90 Fels- und Eistouren zwischen Bernina und Tauern. Isbn: 9783763330102. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2004.
  • Seibert, Dieter: Eastern Alps - The Classic Routes on the Highest Peaks. Isbn: 9780906371541. Diadem Books, 1992.
  • Widmaer Johanna: Best of Alpine Genussklettereien, Band 1. Isbn: 392680730X. Band 1. Alpinverlag, 2002.
  • Donatsch Peter & Coulin David: Die schönsten Gipfelziele der Schweizer Alpen Ost - Ostschweiz, Glarus, Schwyz, Graubünden, Tessin, 2. Auflage edition. Isbn: 978-3855029075. AT Verlag, 2002.
  • Sertori, Mario: Alpine Ice - The 600 Best Ice Falls In The Alps. Isbn: 9788887890839. Versant Sud, 2009.

Areas

Central Alps

Central Alps are located in the Eastern Switzerland to the east of Bernese and Pennine Alps and beyond Grimsel and Furka Passes. They consist of numerous smaller ranges. Whether Central Alps actually exist as a third main group of the Alps is not clear. Here however, few groups often associated with Western Alps are grouped together.

  • Glarus Alps to the south and east of Engelberg are possibly to most interesting of these to the climbers. Titlis (3240m) above Lake Lucerne and city of Engelberg is a popular ski mountaineering peak. Around it, there are several lesser peaks that, however, have high-quality granite for rock climbing. For those interested in classic ice climbing, Clariden (3267m) Nordwand (AD, 50°) is the best objective.
  • Farther south on the Swiss-Italian border between Simplon and Splügen passes lie the Lepontine Alps (eastern part of the range is sometimes referred to as Adula Alps). The range has several peaks that rise above 3000m mark, but it is not particularly popular among the climbers because of the quality of the rock leaves some room for improvement. However, these areas are well suited for ski mountaineering during the winter. Especially popular is Monte Leone (3553m) just above the town of Brig.
  • The Albula Alps lie in the canton of Grisons (Graubünden), north of the winter sport center Saint Moritz and rises between Splügen and Flüela passes. There the rock begins to reminiscent dolomitic limestone. The highest peak is Piz Kesch (3418m).
  • North-eastern Swiss Alps lie close to Austrian border. The best known peaks of the area are Glärnisch (2920m) and Säntis (2504m) in the canton of Appenzell.

During the wintertime the absolute highlight of the area is Brunnital, one of the premiere sports for ice climbing in the Alps.

  • Swiss Landeskarte: 247 Tarasp1:25 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 247 Tarasp1:50 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1137 Albula1:25 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 258 Bergün1:50 000

Bernina Alps and Bregaglia

Bernina Alps and Bregaglia are located very close together in the southeast corner of Switzerland. Outside mountaineering circles the area is more famous as the winter playground of the "jet-set", centered on the fashionable resorts of St. Moritz (1822m) and Samedan (1720m) in the upper Engadin valley, and Pontresina (1800m) in Bernina valley. <<more>>.

Northern Eastern Alps (Northern limestone Alps)

Northern part of Eastern Alps extend through Southern Germany and northern Austria from Bodensee in West to Wien in East. The area consist of many mountain groups, many of which are not too important for mountaineers and alpinists. Several limestone ranges ranges located right on the border between Austria and Germany, collectively referred to as Bavarian Alps are well suited for alpine rock climbing. Because of the relatively low altitude and approximity of major cities München, Innsbruck and Salzburg, the area is also popular among mountain walkers and hikers. Most important mountains are Zugspitze (2962m) in Wetterstein Group and Watzmann (2713m) in Berchtesgader Alps. Also, Dachtein group further to the east is important climbing area. In the following, only most important areas are introduced.

  • Map of Tirol. Shows the location of most mountain groups of Bavarian Alps.

Ammergauer/Lechtaler Alpen

Located to the west of Wetterstein

  • Ammergauer Hochplatte (2082m)
  • Scheinbergspitze (1926m)
  • Klammspitze (1924m)
  • Kramer (1985m)
  • Daniel und Upspitze (2340m)
  • Thaneller (2340m)
  • Kohlbergspitze (2202m)
  • Lutz Markus & Heiland Robert: Ammergau. Isbn: 3-926807-71-7. Panico, 1999.

Bayerische Voralpen

Northernmost group of German Alps, located between Loisach in the West and Berchtesgadener Alps (separated by the river Inn) in the East. Higher groups of Wetterstein, Karwendel and Rofan form souther border of Bayerische Voralpen. The most prominent peaks of the area are Kampenwand, Hörnlwand and Sonntagshorn (1961m). Famous winter sport cities Inzell and Ruhpolding in NE and Reit im Winkl in SW are the most commonly used bases.

  • Krottenkopf (2082m)
  • Wendelstein (1837m)
  • Rotwand (1885m)
  • Hirschberg (1670m)
  • Risserkogel (1826m)
  • Schinder (1808m)
  • Aiplspitze (1759m) und Jägerkamp
  • Jochberg (1565m)

Chiemgauer Alpen

  • Geigelstein (1808m)
  • Hochgern (1748m)
  • Kampenwand (1664m)
  • Hörndlwand (1684m)

Wetterstein/Mieminger

Wetterstein is relatively small area located on the border between Germany and Austria, just south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Mieminger lies just south of Wetterstein and North of Stubai Alps. The highest aand most famous mountain of the area is Zugspitze (2962m), the highest mountain of Germany.

  • Zugspitze (2962m) und Jubiläumsgrat
  • Hochwanner (2744m)
  • Hochblasen (2706m)
  • Alpspitze (2620m)
  • Partenkirchener Dreitorspitze (2633m)
  • Obere Wettersteinspitze (2297m)
  • Ehrwalder Sonnenspitze (2412m)
  • Grosse Arnspitze (2195m)
  • Beulke Stefan: Alpenvereinführer Wettersteingebirge. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • Eberle Bernd & Zak Heinz: Wetterstein Süd. Panico, 2001. ISBN: 3-926807-86-5.
  • Heinl Josepf: Wetterstein Gebirge. Odyssee Alpinverlag, 1988.
  • Pfanzelt Helmut: Gebietsführer Wetterstein mit Mieminger Kette. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • Pfanzelt Christian: Wetterstein Nord. Panico, 2003. ISBN: 3-926807-49-0.
  • Ritscher Bernd & Dauer Tom: Zugspitze - Menschen, Massen, Mythen. Bruckmann Verlag, 2001.
  • Zak Heinz: Wetterstein. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1996.
  • AV-Karte: 4/2 Wetterstein1:25.000
  • Freytag & Berndt: 322 Wetterstein-Karwendel1:50 000
  • Topographische Karte: 8532/8632 Garmisch-PartenkirchenBayerisches Landesvermessungsamt München. 1:25.000
  • Kompass Karte: 07 Werdenfelser Land mit Zugspitze1:35 000

Karwendel

Karwendel lies mostly in Austria, between Inntal (Innsbruck) in the south, Wetterstein in West, Rofangebirge in East and Isar in the North. Most common bases are Innsbruck in the south, Achensee in East, Wallgau, Leggries and Eng in the north and Mittenwald, Seefeld, Scharnitz and Krön in the west.

  • Birkkarspitze (2749m)
  • Grosser und Kleiner Bettelwurf (2725m)
  • Solsteine (2637m)
  • Speckkarspitze (2621m)
  • Lamsenspitze (2508m)
  • Sonnjoch (2457m)
  • Erlspitze (2404m)
  • Westliche Karwendelspitze (2384m)
  • Schafreuter (2105m)
  • Sonntagkarspitze (2575m)
  • AV-Karte: 5/1 Karwendelgebirge West1:25 000
  • AV-Karte: 5/2 Karwendel Mitte1:25 000
  • AV-Karte: 5/3 Karwendel Ost1:25 000
  • UK L 30 KarwendelgebirgeBayerische Landesvermessungsamt. 1:50 000
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 322 KarwendelFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 323 Achensee-Rofan-UnterinntalFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000

Kaisergebirge (Wilder Kaiser)

Located to the east of Kanwendel and West of Rofangebirge. The area offers mostly rock climbs.

  • Ellmauer Halt (2344m)
  • Ackerlspitze (2329m)
  • Treffauer Kaiser (2304m)
  • Hintere Goinger Halt (2192m)
  • Scheffauer Kaiser (2111m)
  • Sonneck (2261m)
  • Pyramidenspitze (1997m)
  • AV-Karte: 8 Kaisergebirge1:25 000
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 301 Kuftsein-Kaisergebirge-KitzbuhelFreytag & Berndt. 1:50 000

Rofangebirge

  • Hochiss (2299m)
  • Rofanspitze (2259m)
  • Dalfázer Wände (2233m)
  • Sagzahn (2228m)
  • Vorderes Sonnwendjoch (2224m)
  • Haidachstellwand (2192m)
  • Salvenmoser Hannes & Rutter Mike: Rofangebirge. Isbn: 3-936740-05-4. Panico, 2003.

Berchtesgadener Alps

Berchtesgadener Alps lie mostly is Southeastern Germany but extend also to Austria. Saalach and Salzach rivers and Zeller See form natural borders. Range consist of Untersberg, Lattengebirge, Raiteralpe, Hochkaltergebirge, Wattzmannstock, Göllstock, Gotzenberge, Hagengebirge, Steinernes Meer and Hochkönigsstock. The highest mountain of the area is Hochkönig (2941m), located in Austria. However, the most famous mountain of the area is Watzamann (2713m, the second highest mountain in Germany).

Small city of Berchtesgaden is the central city of the area. Nearest major city is Salzburg on Austrian side of the border.

by train to Berchtesgaden
From Munich (Timetable query) and Salzburg (Timetable query)
  • Watzmannhaus1928
  • Wimbachgrieshütte
  • Hocheck-Unterstandshütte2653
  • Wimbachschloss
  • Mitterkasernalm
  • Biwakschachtel2340
  • Blaueishütte

Statistically May, September and October are best months for climbing, as June and July are wettest months. Many high routes have snow until June (or longer). Some routes however are often dry in early spring, especially East face of Untersberg is a good destination for rock climbing during that time.

Climbing is mostly on rock. The most striking climbing destination of the area is 1800m high East Face of Watzmann, one of the biggest faces in the whole Alps. There are several routes from III upwards. Traverse over all three Watzmann summits is very popular (UIAA I-II, via ferrata, 2500m of ascent). Other popular climbing peaks are Hoher Göll and Untersberg. There are also several via ferratas. East Face of Hoher Göll is the classic ice face in the area.

UIAA rock grades are used for rock routes. As is typical in Austria, no overall grading system is generally applies.

  • Königsspitze (2941m)
  • Watzmann (2713m)
  • Schönfeldspitze (2653m)
  • Hochkalter (2607m)
  • Schärtenspitze (2153m)
  • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.4 Berchtesgadener Alpen. 3860384880. 2001. 1:25 000
  • Topographische Karte Bayerische Landesvermessungsamt: Bl.1 Nationalpark Berchtesgaden. 3860380931. 2001. 1:25 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 93Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen. 1:25 000
  • Freytag und Berndt Wanderkarten: Berchtesgaden, Bad Reichenhall, Königssee. 3850848167. 2001
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 141:50 000

Dachstein

Further to the east lies Dachstein group. The area is very compact with dozen peaks above 2500m. The highest peak is Hohe Dachstein at 2995m. Other main peaks are Torstein (2948m) in the westernmost part of the massif, Mitterspitz (2926m) and Kopperkarstein (2863m). It is more glaciated than usually glacier free Bavarian Alps and it features the easternmost glaciers in the Alps. 7 of the glaciers are located on the north side of the main ridge and one on the south side.

Main bases are Ramsau (1136m) on the south side and Gosau (779m) on the north side. The area is very popular and features many huts, Dachstein Südwandhütte (1871m) and Adamekhütte (2196m) are probably the most popular among the climbers. There is a cable car fromRamsau to Hunerkogel which facilitates easy access to normal routes on Hohe Dachstein.

Besides few glacier routes it has several via ferratas and rock routes. South face of the main ridge is the most interesting feature from the climber's point of view. It is 8 km wide and 1000 meters high at the westernmost part at Torstein and only slightly less on Hohe Dachstein. Steinerweg and Pichlweg on the South Face of Hoher Dachstein are probably famous rock climbs. Torstein (2948m) Eisrinne (45-55°, 300m) is the classic ice route of the area. During the winter Dachstein is great for ski mountaineering.

  • Österreichische Karte: 126 Radstadt1:50 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 127 Schladming1:50 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 96 Bad Ischl1:50 000
  • AV-Karte: 14 Dachstein Group".1:25 000
  • Fischbacher Andi, Schall Kurt, Hoi Klaus & Lidl Ewald: Kletterarena Dachstein Süd - Auswahlführer für Klettersteige, Genussklettern, Sportklettern, Klettergärten und alpine Klassiker. Isbn: 3-900533-36-9. Schall Verlag, 2004.
  • End Willi: Alpenvereisnführer Dachsteingruppe Ost. Isbn: . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.

Central Eastern Alps (Austrian Alps)

West from the Bernina and Central Alps and between Northern and Southern ranges lie Central Eastern Alps, that consist of several mountain groups from. Western groups are glaciated, some of them excessively so. The area is best known for high-quality snow and ice climbing and ski-mountaineering. However, most areas feature good rock climbing, especially on the rocky towers of Zillertaler Alps. The most famous mountains of the area is Grossglockner (3798m) in Hohe Tauern. Further to the east, mountains are much lower and not glaciated.

While the mountains in the Central Eastern Alps are not as high and generally not as steep as in Western Alps, the normal routes on the most high peaks are in the F-PD range. There are, however, several more demanding classics on snow, ice or mixed ground, especially on and around Grossglockner and in Zillertal (Hochfeiler).

Lot of quality waterfall ice climbing is found in Austria. Propably the Best-known areas are Pitztal, Zillertal, Gasteinertal and Rudolfshütte (Grossglockner area).

Getting information about the climbs may not always be straight forward for foreign climbers, as most of the information is only available in German. Also, typically no overall alpine grade is used.

Rhätikon & Silvretta

Silvretta group is located at the easternmost part of Central Alps at the border between Switzerland and Austria. The most famous, although not the highest, mountain of the area is Piz Buin (3312m), located in Austria. The highest peak of the range, Piz Linard (3409m) is located in Switzerland. Silvretta group is heavily glaciated and is popular with summer and winter tourists.

Rätikon (or Rhätikon) is located in the the northern part of Swiss canton Grisons (Graubünden). It is popular among rock-climbers, especially amond alpine sport climbers, and hikers.

  • AV-Karte: 26 Silvretta1:25 000
  • Freytag & Berndt Wanderkarte: 37 Rätikon-Silvretta-Verwall1:100 000
  • Swiss Landeskarte: 1198 Silvretta1:25 000

Ötztaler Alps

Ötztal range is located in Tyrol, Austria, just to the north of Inn Valley. The area are very popular and correspondingly has several huts. Best known objectives among the climbers are Wildspitze (3768m), Weisskugel (3738m)and Similaun (3599m). All of these have glacier ascents of around PD. North Faces of Wildspitze and Weisskugel are famous harder ice routes of the area.

  • Alpenverein: 30/2 Ötztaler Alpen/Weisskugel1:25 000
  • Alpenverein: 30/6 Ötztaler Alpen/Wildspitze1:25 000
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 43 Ötztaler Alpen1:50 000
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: WKS2 Südliche Ötztaler Alpen

Stubaier Alps

Stubai range is located in Tyrol, Austria, just to the north of Inn Valley. The area are very popular and correspondingly has several huts. Best known objective among the climbers is Zuckerhütl (3507m). All of these have glacier ascents of around PD.

  • Zuckerhütl (3505m)
  • Ruderhofsspitze (3474m)
  • Östliche Seespitze (3416m)
  • Wilder Freiger (3418m)
  • Habicht (3277m)
  • Alpenvereinskarte: 31/1 Hochstubai1:25 000
  • Alpenvereinskarte: 31/5 Innsbruck-Umgebung1:50 000
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 83 Stubaier Alpen-Serleskamm1:50 000
  • Kompass Wanderkarte: 36 Innsbruck-Nrennen1:50 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 174 Timmelsjoch1:50 000

Zillertal Alps

Zillertaler mountains are are typically jagged with sharp ridges, pinnacles and towers. Many glaciers are heavily crevassed and feature impressive icefalls. Most famous mountains are Hochfeiler (3509m), Grosse Möseler (3480m) and Grosse Löffler (3379), all of which have normal routes between F and PD-. More demanding classics of the area are North Faces of Hochfeiler and Hochferner and Northwest Face of Grosse Möseler.

  • AV-Karte: 35/2 Zillertaler Alpen Central1:25 000
  • AV-Karte: 31/1 Zillertaler Alpen West1:25 000
  • Kompass-Wanderkarte: 37 Zillertaler Alpen-Tuxer Voralpen1:50 000
  • Kompass-Wanderkarte: 821:50 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 149 Lanersbach1:50 000
  • Österreichische Karte: 150 Zell am Ziller1:50 000

Hohe Tauern

Highest of the Austrian ranges is Hohe Tauern. It consists of several loosely knit groups, all of them heavily glaciated (more or less from west to east):

Riesenferner group
Riesenferner group.
Villgraten group
Riesenferner group.
Venediger group
<<more>>.
Granatspitz group
Glockner group
<<more>>.
Schoeber group
Schoeber group.
Goldberg group
Kreuzeck group
Kreuzeck group.
Ankogel group
<<more>>.

Most important summits of the area are Grossglockner (3798m) and Grosses Wiesbachhorn (3564m) in Glockner group, Grossvenediger (3666m) in Venediger group, Hochalmspitze (3360m) in Ankogel group, Hochschober (3240m) in Schober group, Hochgall/Collalto (3436m) in Rieserferner group and Hoher Sonnblick (3105m) in Goldberg group. <<more>>.

Southern Eastern Alps

Southern Eastern Alps are located mainly in Italy and Slovenia with northern parts reaching into southern Austria. The area consist of groups of very different character: where Ortler Group furthest to the West has high mountains with excessive glacier and mostly snow and ice climbs, Dolomites and and Julian Alps further to the east are much lower and are well known for rock climbs.

Ortler Group

Ortler Alps lie in in South Tirol, northern part of Italy, south of Ötztal Alps of Austria and west of Dolomites. Ortler Alps consist of two sub groups, Ortles-Cevedale group located close to Sulden and Adamella-Presanelle group located further south. Highest and most famous peaks Ortler (3905m), Königsspitze (Gran Zebru), Monte Cevedale (3769m) and Zebru are located in Ortles-Cevedale group. Cima Presanella (3558m) and Monte Adamello (3554m) are the dominant peaks of the Adamello-Presanella group. <<more>>.

Dolomites & Garda

Dolomites are located in northern Italy. Their name comes from the mineral dolomite which is common in the rocks, colourful dolomitic limestone. Although Dolomites are relativeley low, the mountains are very dramatic featuring characteristic limestone pinnacles and spires and high vertical or overhanging faces, some of them over 1000 meters high. The highest peak of the Dolomites is Marmolada (3342m). However, propably the most famous is Cima Grande (2999m), a classic climbing peak with impressive North Face. <<more>>.

Julian Alps

Julian Alps, located in Slovenia, are the easternmost part of the Alps. The rock of the area resembles the limestone of Dolomites. Althought the mountains are not as striking as the Dolomites, the climbing is of good quality. Slovenian Alps see far less tourists than other parts of the range thus is is a good place to go, if enjoying mountain solitude is high on the priority list.

The most stunning peaks of the area are to be found near Austrian and Italian borders. Here lies also Triglav (2863m), the highest peak of the range. Other highlights include Sklartica (2740m), Magart (2678m) and Jalovec (2645m). All of the above mentioned mountains are covered with classic, multi-pitch rock climbs. Although the range has no glaciers, there are several winter routes, especially on Triglav.

  • Triglav Nationalk ParkPlaninska Zveza Slovenije. 1:25 000
  • Triglav Nationalk ParkJUlian Alps - Eastern Section. 1:50 000
  • Julian Alps - TriglavPlaninska Zveza Slovenije. 1:25 000
  • Jentzsch, Andreas & Jentzsch-Rabl, Axel: Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen - Auswahlführer mit 84 Tourenvorschlägen für Österreich, Südtirol und die Schweiz. Isbn: 9783950092004. Alpinverlag Jentsch-Rabl, 2004.
  • Mihelic, Tine: Mountaineering in Slovenia - The Julian Alps and Kamnik and Savinja Alps. Isbn: 9789616027366. Sidarta, 2003.
  • Kresal, Gregor: Zimski Vzponi - Winter Climbing in the Julian Alps. Isbn: 9789616027472.
  • Collomb Robin G: Julian Alps. Isbn: 0901516899. West Col, 1990.
  • Michelic Tine: Mountaineering in Slovenia - The Julian Alps. Isbn: 9616027360. Siudarta, 2003.
  • Schöner Hellmut & Brandstätter Karl: Alpenvereinsführer Julische Alpen. Isbn: . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1989.

Mountains

Central Alps

Glarus Alps

Titlis3240
Clariden3267
Located in Uri/Glarus..

Very popular ski mountain due to easy access both from Zürich and Luzern. Especially South and East faces and East Pillar are impressive.

Lepontine Alps & Adula Alps

Monte Leone46.2497228.1102783553
Lepontine Alps, Switzerland, located close to the city of Brig..

The highest peak of Lepontine Alps and the most important peak in Simplon pass (2005m) area. NW side has ice routes while North, NE and south sides have rock routes. Popular also on skis between March and June.

Albula Alps

Piz Kesch3418
  • Piz Kesch
  • Piz Kesch
  • Piz Kesch
Bündner Alps/Albula Alps

The highest mountain of Bündner Alps and Albula Alps. There is a small glacier on the north side while south face is mostly rock. There are three summits, West (3418m),Central (3405m) and East (Keschnadel, 3386m). The lowest east summit is the most spectacular with climbing routes on it. NE Ridge AD+, IV,5-6h) is a classic. Most difficult climbs are found on East face (TD-, V+, A2).

Northern Eastern Alps (Northern limestone Alps)

Wetterstein/Mieminger

Zugspitze47.42111110.9852782962
Germany, Wettersteingebirge, Located at border between Austria and Germany in Wetterstein range, immediately south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen..

Highest mountain in Germany and correspondingly popular.

First ascent by G.Deutschl, Maier & K. Naus in 1820.

Jubiläumsgrat
6 km long, exposed ridge joining Zugspitze and Alpspitze (2620m). There are several summit starting from Zugspitze: Innere Höllentalspitze (2737m), Mittlere Höllentalspitze (2740m), Äussere Höllentalspitze (2716m), Vollkarspitze (2630m).
Jubiläumsgrat. Ferrata, II (via ferrata); 500m ascent, 800m descent. 1-2 days (There is Höllentalgrathütte bivouac hut between Mittlere and Äussere Höllentalspitze).
Popular climb during the summer. Possible on both directions.
NE Ridge
Höllentalsteig (Bayerische Normalweg, NE ridge). Ferrata, F+/G2; via ferrata C; 7-8h, 2200m.
Normal route. Slightly harder than Tiroler normal route and considered to be nicer. It is possible to stay at Höllentalangerhütte (1379m) on the route.
Tiroler Normalweg. Ferrata, I; 1750m, 6-7h from Zugspitzbahn station in Ehrenwald (1228m).
Normal route. Easiest route to the summit. It is Possible to sleep in Wiener-Neustädter Hut (2209m).

Berchtesgadener Alps

Hochkönig2941
Südwand
Gloria Patria. VI/eVII; 550m, 18 pitches, 6h.
Kesselpfeiler
Kesselpfeiler (Precht). VI/eVI-; 400m, 15 pitches, 4h.
Watzmann47.55527812.9233332713
  • Hocheck
  • Mittelspitze
  • Südspitze (Schönfeldspitze)
Germany, Berchtesgadener Alps. Highest mountain in the German part of Berchtesgadener Alpen and the second highest in Germany. Very popular. Traverse over three summits is popular route with UIAA II, via ferrata). 1800m high east face is one of the highest faces in the Alps and has several routes with technical difficulties starting at UIAA III. There are also several climbing routes on Klein Watzmann and Watzmannkinder.
1900-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Ascent
During the fourth ascent of Ostwand, the first fatal accident took place as Christian Schöllhorn from Munich (Germany) fell 50 meters to the Bergschrung of a glacier, later known as Shöllhorngletscher. After the accident guides were officially forbidden to climb on Ostwand. The forbid was in force until 1909. From then on over 100 people have died on the mountain.
1900-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Event
East face, Herman Buhl
1784-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Hocheck, botanist Georg Anton Weitzenbach
1799-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Südspitze, Valentin Stanic, chaplain of Salzburg via Hocheck
1868-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
Ostawand was climbed in its northernmost part
1871-02-01
Watzmann, ,
First winter ascent
Johann Ilsanker ('Stanzl') with a partner
1881-01-01
Watzmann, ,
First ascent
True first ascent however was made in 1881 as http://www.watzmann.de/homepage/berg/geschichte/kederbacher/kederbacher.html Johann Grill ('Kederbacher') succeeded to climb from Eiskapelle to the South Summit. Kederbacher (1835-1917) was the first authorised mountain guide in Germany. He studied the face with a telescope from Gotzenalm and found a route via two glaciers.
1898-01-01
Watzmann, ,
Event
Cabin was build on Hocheck in 1898. In the same year some steps were cut in stone and rope protections were placed. Thus Watzmann became one of the first via ferratas in the Alps.
North ridge
Traverse Hocheck - Mittelspitze - Südspitze. Rock/ferrata, G2; II (via ferrata); 2500m, 10-15h, 26km (1-2 days). 1871-01-01First ascentJohann Punz and Johann Stüdl, 1871.
Normal route. Wimbachbrücke 600 m - Watzmannhaus 1928 m 31/2 h, 902 Watzmannhaus 1928 m - Hocheck 2651 m I, 2 h, 921 Hocheck 2651 m - Mittelspitze 2713 m - Südspitze 2712 m II, 11/2-2 h, 922 Südspitze 2712 m - Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m 21/2-4 h, 941A Wimbachgrieshütte 1327 m - Wimbachbrücke 600 m 21/2 h, 667 .
  • AV #902,#921,#922,#941A,#667
Hocheck, Ostwand (Hocheck, East face)
Ostpfeiler "Goedeke". Rock, V+/eVI; 650m, 22 pitches, 6,5h.
Mittelspitze, Ostwand (Mittelspitze, East face)
Lapuch/Wieder. Rock, III-/eIII+; 700m, 4h.
Südspitze, Ostwand (Südspitze, East face)
1800 meter high Ostwand (thus highest face in Eastern Alps) was for long considered as impossible to climb until in 1881 a climber from Ramsau, a village on the foot of the mountain, finally succeeded. Nowadays Ostwand is not considered technically extremely difficult in climbers standards - for a lay man it's still Im-possible. The mere scale of the wall however makes it challenge enough for most climbers. There's bivouac hut at 2340m.
  • All routes begin at Eiskapelle (900m), the lowest located place on the Alps with permanent snow. Access by boat from Königssee.
Berchtesgadener Weg. Rock, III+/eIV+; 1800m, 7h.
Easiest of the routes on Ostwand. Found as an accident as trying to ascent Münchner Weg in 1947.
  • AV #946
Kederbacherweg. Mixed/rock, IV-; 1800m.
  • AV #945
Müchnererweg. Rock, IV; 1800m.
  • AV #948
Salzburgerweg. Rock, IV+,A0; 1800m.
  • AV #947
Frankfurterweg (Directissima). Rock, V; 1800m.
  • AV #949
Klein Watzmann (Watzmannfrau)
Watzmannkinder
Hochkalter2607
Located very close to Watzamnn, separated from it by a beautiful Wimbachklamm valley..Home to Blaueisgletscher, the northernmost glacier in the Alps. Blaueishütte (1680m), access from Hintersee (2,5h).
Hoher Göll2522

Popular peak close to Salzburg.

Normal routes are hikes with some easy climbing (Salzburger Steig, I; via Pflugtal, II, 5h; via Alpeltal, I), but there are tens of climbing routes, especially on West face. Some routes on the West face are extremely difficult, for example "caramouche" UIAA IX+/X-, done by famous Alexander & Thomas Huber.

West Face (Westwand)
Kleiner Trichter. 400m, 16 pitches, 4,5h.
Brandenstein (Alte Westwand). Rock, 280m, 10 pitches, 2,5h. 1920-01-01First ascentBrandenstein, 1920.
Classic. Mostly solid, slabby rock. In the lower part, several more direct variants possible (IV or more). Bolts on stands.
West Face (Direkte Westwand). 4h. 1921-01-01First ascentJ.Aschauer & J.Kurz, 1921.
Partially loose and dangerous.
West Ridge. 6-8h from Scharitzkehl. 1900-01-01First ascentA. & G.Schulze, 1900.
Long panoramic ridge.
East Face (Ostwand)
East Face (Ostwand). 8-9h from Golling. 1899-01-01First ascentH.Pfanul & Th. Maischberger, 1899.
Also possible during the winter (April-May), then 820m ice route, 50°.
East Face diedre (Kurt-Lager Gedächtnisweg, Ostwandverschneidung). 800m, 3-5h. 1976-01-01First ascentF.Gruber, H.Hüttiger & G.Breistein, 1976.
East Face Direct (gerade Ostwand). 900m, 5h. 1832-01-01First ascentHöllenbacher & Holzner, 1832.
North Face (Nordwand)
North Face Direct (Gerade Nordwand).
SW Face
SW Face. 3h. 1924-01-01First ascentE.Gretschmann & J.Schmidt, 1924.
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge)
Mannlgrat (NW Ridge). I; 2,5-3h.
Via ferrata from Kehlsteinhaus. Can be climbed also without using the via ferrata, then II-IV depending on the chosen line.
Salzburger Steig. 2,5h. 1801-01-01First ascentStanig (probably earlier ascent by hunters), 1801.
From Purtscheller Haus.
Torrenerjoch-Hoher Göll traverse. 4-5h.
Popular ridge traverse from Torrenerjoch (Stahlhaus, easily reached Jennerbahn ski lift) via Jägerkreuz, Hohes Brett, Grosse Archenkopf and Kleine Archenkopf to summit. Descent either along Mannlgrat to Kehlsteinhaus or Salzburger Steig to Purtscheller Haus.
Untersberg1973
  • Salzburger Hochtron
  • Berchtesgadener Hochtron

Located on the border of Germany and Austria, very close to city of Salzburg.

Berchtesgadener Hochtron, South Face
  • East Face III-, II 390m, 2-3h Wieder & Hütter
  • Direkter Südostpfeiler (Schimkepfeiler) Popular route, stands equipped V+ (passages), mostly V and IV (or V-, A0) 300m, 3-4h H.Reisch & K.Schimke
  • South Face "Barth-Niedermayer" Very popular, bolted III+ (eIV) (passages), otherwise III and II 230m (9 pitches), 2-3h Barth & Niedermayer
  • Barthkamin IV+ (eVI+) 200m, 10 pitches
  • Hinterstoisser/Kurz VI or V,A0 (eVI+) 200m, 9 pitches
Salzburger Hochtron, East Face
  • Dreierweg Stands equipped III 300m, 2h L.Schifferer, H.Feichtner & V.Raitmayer
  • Diedre (Oswandverschneidung) Slab & crack climbing on good rock. Stands equipped IV- (passages), otherwise III 250m, 2h E.Schlager & S.Dumler
Salzburger Hochtron, South Face
  • South Arete IV, mostly IV- and III 150m (4 pitches), 2h Otte & co.
  • South Face Very popular. III- (10m), otherwise II 100m, 1h G.Starke

Dachstein

Hoher Dachstein2995

Hoher Dachstein is the main peak of the Dachsteingruppe, the highest peak of Styria and Upper Austria and the second highest peak of the Northern Limestone Alps.

It's a lofty, rugged and beautiful peak, with glaciers to the North and a steep rock face to the south.

1832-01-01
Hoher Dachstein, ,
First ascent
P.Gappmeyer
East Face
Randkluftsteig (NE Face). Ferrata, G3; II/Via ferrata B/C; 250m.
Normal route. Via Ferrata through East Face. Via ferrata starts at Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet Hut, 2720m).
West side
Linzer Weg & traverse. PD-/G3; I+/via ferrata A/B; 250m/800m, 3,5h from hut to Hunekogen ski lift via East face klettersteig.
Via Gosau glacier to Obere Windlucke on the West Ridge. Also possible from Hunerkogel ski lift. Then along the west ridge (fixed gear) to the summit. West ridge is the easiest route on Hohe Dachstein. Descent via East face Klettersteig.
South Face
Der Johann (South Face Ferrata). Ferrata, Via Ferrata D/E; 1050m, Approach 2h, via ferrata 3h, descent to cable car 0,5h.
Very difficult Via ferrata from Dachstein Südwand hut (1871m) to Dachsteinwarte (Seethalet hut, 2720m). Along the East face via ferrata to summit.
Steinerweg. Rock, V-,A0, mostly IV and IV+; 850m (24 pitches), 5-9h. 1909-01-01First ascentG. & F. Steiner, 1909.
Classic. Alpine rock classic.
Pichlweg. IV-, mostly II and III+; 700m, 4-6h. 1901-07-27First ascentE. Pichl, F. Gams & F. Zimmer, 1901-07-27.
Torstein2948
Located in the westernmost part of the massif..The second highest peak of the massif
1900-01-01
Torstein, ,
Event

Central Eastern Alps (Austrian Alps)

Rhätikon & Silvretta

Piz Linard3411
Located in southern part of the group, some 25km away from Piz Kesch..The highest mountain in Silvretta group. Quite popular peak with several routes. SE Ridge (III), S Ridge (II) and North Ridge (II) all offer more interesting alternative to the normal route.
South side
South Face and SW Ridge. AD/G3; II-III; 4-5h.
Weilenmannrinne (South Flank). PD; II (passages) and I; 550m. 1600m, 10-11h roundtrip.
Normal route. Easiest route. Stone fall dander.
Piz Buin3312
  • Grand Piz Buin (East summit)
  • Little Piz Buin (West summit)
Piz Buin is the most famous mountain in the area and very popular both in summer and in winter.
1865-01-01
Piz Buin, ,
First ascent
J.A. Specht, J. Weilenmann, Pöll & Pfitcher
West side
via W Flank & NW Ridge. F+/PD; I+/II, 30°; 1280m, 4h.
Normal route. From Bielerhöhe (2036m) via Wiesbadener Hut (2443m). Either across Vermont glacier or via Ochsentaler glacier (crevasses) to Buinlücke (3056m). From there via West Face and NW Ridge to summit.
West Ridge. G3; 45°; 1700m, 6,5h.
From Guarda (1653m) via Chamanna Tuoi (2250m), Crosnel (2659m), Fuorcla Buin (3054m) and West Flank.
Silvrettahorn3244
Dreiländerspitze3197
Located in Silvretta, on the border between Switzerland, and Austrian Cantons of Tyrol and Vorarlberg..Architecrutally beautiful summit of ice and rock.
1870-07-14
Dreiländerspitze, ,
First ascent
Doctor Theodor Petersen with unknown companions
NW Flank & W Ridge. Glacier, F+/PD/G3; I-II on the rock ridge between north summit and south summit, 30°; 750m, 2,5-3h.
Normal route. Easy glacier route with short snow slope and rock ridge. From Galtür (1584m) to Wiesbadener Hut (2443m) via Vermunt Glacier.

Ötztaler Alps

Wildspitze3770
  • South summit
  • North summit

Highest mountain in Ötztal Alps and 2nd highest mountain is Austria.

Easiest ascent is short glacier climb thanks to cable car leading to Mittelberg. North and NW Faces are classic ice faces (300m).

North Face (Nordwand)
North Face (Nordwand). Ice, AD+; 50°; 300m, 2,5h.
Classic. Classic ice climb with height of around 300m. During the summer passing the bergschrund can be the crux.
West side
via Mitterkarjoch. F/PD; 45°/M3, I-II; 950m, 3,5h.
Normal route. Glacier climb starting from Breslauer Hut (2840m) via Mitterkarjoch (45°, I-II, M3).
East side
Petersen Route. PD; II; 900m.
South side
Weisskugel (Palla Bianca)3739

Second highest peak in Ötztal and 3rd highest in Austria.

Can be climbed from five huts in different valleys. The normal routes join at Hinterersjoch (3471m). All normal routes are basic glacier ascents (F/PD-).

North side
North Ridge. 1250m, 6-8h roundtrip from Weisskukugel hut.
Long glacier ridge route, one of the nicest routes in Ötztal. Both shorter and nicer than the normal route.
NW Face. Ice, 350m (face), 1200m (from Weisskukugel hut), 5-6h.
Good conditions normally only during the spring (around eastern).
Normal route. 1250m, 4h.
Normal route. The easiest way up is from Weisskugel hut (Rifugio Pio XI alla Palla Bianca, 2544m) up the Langtauferer Ferner to the Weisskugeljoch (this can be reached also from Hochjochspiz with similar difficulty). After that up to the summit in a loop from south east.
East Ridge. 900m, 5h.
From Rifugio Bellavista (2842m).
Similaun3606

Stubaier Alps

Zuckerhütl3505
Highest mountain in Stubai Alps and also the most popular.
1863-01-01
Zuckerhütl, ,
First ascent
Specht & Tanzer
East side
East Ridge. Glacier, 1380m, 4h.
Normal route. Glacier Route from Dresdner hut via Pfaffensattel and East Ridge.
North Face
North Face. Ice, 200m.

Zillertal Alps

Hochfeiler (Gran Pilastro)3510
Highest mountain in Zillertal.
1865-07-24
Hochfeiler, ,
First ascent
P.Grohmann, P.Fuchs & G.Samer
North Face (Nordostwand)
North Face (Nordostwand). Ice, AD+/D-; 55°, avg. 45°; 350m, 1,5-4h. 1887-01-01First ascentF.Dyck & H.Hörhage, 1887.
Classic. Classic ice climb.
SW side
SW Ridge. F/PD-/G2; I (short passage); 950m, 3h.
Normal route. From hut via SW Flank and WSW Ridge.
Hochferner3463
  • Hochferner
  • Griessferner (Hochferner NW)
Located in Zillertal, very close to Hochfeiler..North face is one of the longest ice faces in the Eastern Alps.
Hochfeiler, Nordwand
Ice, 45°, direct variant 80-85°; 950m.
ice climb.
Griessferner, Nordwand
Griessferner. Ice, 50°, variants with 60-85°; 950m. 1942-01-01First ascentB. Herbst, T. Hackl & H. Veiglhuber, 1942.
ice climb.
Traverse from Hochfeiler. G1-2; 950m.
Grosser Möseler3479

Second highest summit in Zillertaler Alps.

Mostly climbed from southern (Italian) side as the northwest face (classic ice climb) is much harder than the southern side.

South side
From South. F+; 3,5h.
North side
From West via S Ridge. PD-/G2-3; I and II (short passage), 35°; 1200m, 3,5h. 1878-01-01First ascentW.Fickeis, F.Kirschker & G.Samer, 1878.
Normal route. normal route from the north side. Via Schlegeisoch, Furtscheglkeel (2727m) and Felsköpfl (2985m) to summit ridge. Glacier very crevassed.
Northwest Face (Firndreieck). Ice, 60° (avg. 53°) on NW Ridge 50°, II and III; 250m/1440m, 6-7h. 1879-01-01First ascentOtto & Emil Zsigmondy, A.Böhm & Worafka, 1879.
Classic. Classic ice climb.
Mittelfelsgrat (2 NO Grat & Schönbichler Horn). Rock, III+.
Classic ice climb.
Olperer3476
1879-01-01
Olperer, ,
First ascent
Paul Grohmann, Jakob Samer and Jakob Huber via SE Ridge
Schneegupfgrat (Southeast Ridge)
Schneegupfgrat (Southeast Ridge). 1090m, 3-4h. 1879-01-01First ascentPaul Grohmann, Jakob Samer and Jakob Huber, 1879.
North Ridge
North Ridge. 1150m, 4h from Geraer hut. 1900-01-01Event .
Normal route. Easiest route. Short glacier approach folllowed by beautiful and exposed, but well protected climbing on the North Ridge.
SW Ridge
SW Ridge. 950m, 7h.
From Spannagel hut via Wildlahnerscharte to SW Ridge and further to the summit.
Grosses Löffler3376
From West via S Ridge. 1150m, 3,5h.
Normal route. Starting at parking lot at Dristenbachalm (1179m, accessible from Ginzling-Dornauberg (985m)) to Greizer hut (2227m). Via Flaitenkees and South Ridge to the summit. Creavassed glacier and moderate climbing in block terrain on the summit ridge.
Zsigmondyspitze (Feldkopf)3087
Beautiful steep pyramide, "Matterhorn of Zillertal". One of the most important climbing mountains in Zillertal.
1879-07-24
Zsigmondyspitze, ,
First ascent
Emil & Otto Szigmondy
South side
SE Ridge. AD-; III- (short passage), II; 200m, 1-2,5h. 1830m, 11h from Ginzling-Darrenberg. 1879-07-24First ascentEmil & Otto Szigmondy, 1879-07-24.
South Ridge. V- (2 places), otherwise III and IV-; 1050m (technical part 200m), 5h.
Steep arete with good holds.
North side

Southern Eastern Alps

Julian Alps

Triglav46.38333313.8833332863
Slovenia, Julian Alps.

Southern and eastern faces have some routes. However, by far the most sought after climbing destination is Stena, the North Face. It has great number of routes ranging between moderate alpine classics and desperate.

Most of the climbs are started from Aljaz Lodge (1015m), conveniently located in Vrata valley, below the north face. Access to it is from village of Mojstrana (11km by road or 2,5h walk in). Mojstrana is located some 10km away from Jesenice, which can be reached by t6rain from Villach (Austria) or Ljubljana. Ljublsjana, located only 50km away, is the closest international airport.

North Face (stena)
The North Face (Stena) is 1000m high two kilometres wide wall of limestone, one of the grandest walls in Eastern Alps. The easiest routes on the Face follow large chimney/gully systems and are graded II or III. However, some sections are really steep, notably the Sphinx in the upper right part of the face - a partially vertical, partially overhanging tower on the right side of the Face dropping from a point on the West Ridge.
  • 1,5h walk from Aljaz hut (1015m)
Bavarian route (Bavarska Smer). IV+; 700m, 4-5h. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m). 1926-09-06First ascentGeorg Kuglstatter & Hans Unger, 1926-09-06.
German route (Nemska Smer). D+; IV-; 1200m. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m).
Slovenian route (Slovenska Smer). III, mostly II; 800m. Starting point Aljaz hut (1015m).
Tominsek Route. Ferrata,
Normal route. From Aljaz hut (1015m) via Tominsek-Weg (via ferrata) to Triglav hut (2515m). Further along East Ridge (via ferrata) to summit.
WSW Ridge - SE Ridge. F; 1850m.
Skrlatica2740
Mangart2678
Jalovec2645