Europe
Alps
The Alps are the dominant range of Europe. Although The Alps contain 'only' 61 peaks over 4000m and are thus not very high in comparison with Himalayas or Andes, the Alps are steep and feature extensive glaciation. The Alps are a wide and convoluted crescent of ranges and peaks arching to the north of the Italian Peninsula, from the Julian Alps of Slovenia on the east to the Maritime Alps of the South of?France on the west.
Because the Alps are heavily glaciated, classic mountaineering is found on all higher ranges, both in Western and Eastern Alps. Highest mountains are contrentrated mainly in Mant Blanc Massif, Pennine Alps and Bernese Alps. Classic mountaineering routes are also found in abundance in Ecrins massif and in Bernina Alps. Every type of climbing is found on these areas. Besides classic mountain routes, all of these areas have also wealth of difficult ice and mixed routes. These areas are well known among the climbers and more popular routes can get crowded during the summer months.
Good quality rock climbing is found all over the Alps. Most famous area is probably Dolomites in the northern Italy. Generally speaking the southern areas profit from warmer and often more stable weather, so they are well suited for rock climbing.
Alpine ice and mixed routes are concentrated in the high mountain areas. Also Austrian Alps have several worthwhile alpine ice routes, especially in Hohe Tauern. Alps also feature very good ice fall climbing on many areas. Best-known areas are Oisans aux six Vallees in Dauphin/Graian Alps (La Grave, Cogne) and Mont Blanc area. Also Kandersteg in Bernese Alps is famous ice center and home to many of the most difficult new-style mixed routes. Eastern Alps are also well suited for ice climbing, Hohe Tauern and Pitztal are among the better known areas.
While steep faces and couloirs in the Western Alps are popular proving ground for skilled ski alpinists, Central and eastern Alps are probably better suited for less extreme skiers. Via ferratas, a form of combination of a hiking path and climbing route are found in abundance in the Dolomites (however, they do exists also elsewhere).
In comparison to most other alpine areas, there's abundancy of information available about the climbs in the Alps. Especially the most popular areas of the Western Alps have great number of guidebooks available in several languages.
Generally speaking there's no shortage of information about Western Alps. For climbers who are limited to English, guidebooks cobvering Dauphiné (Ecrins Massif), Mount Blanc Massif, Bernese Alps and valais Alps (Wallis), guidebooks are available by British Alpine Club. For Swiss areas, Alpine guidebooks (Alpinführer or Clubführer) are generally the best guidebooks. Because they are very thorough, one guidebook covers only small area though, so you might end up needing quite a lot of them. If you are only interested in famous high peaks (and the omission of most of the extreme routes does not disturb you), Selected guides (Auswahlführer) might be as good option. They cover much larger areas but not bnearly as thoroughly. Alpine guidebooks are available both in German and French. Some areas are covered by Rother's area guides (Gebietsführer) as well. Since I don't speak French I have no idea what kind of guidebooks are available in French. I expect though, that if you speak French, you should probably go with the French guyidebooks, as the local books tend to be the most complete and most up to date.
Generally speaking there is less information available about the Eastern Alps. And mostly if you want to get up to date and thorough information, you better know German. There are few English language guidebooks, but they are typically not very thorough and sometimes also very out of date. Alpine club guides (Alpenvereinführer) published by Rother are the standard literature. If you are into ice climbing, you might want to take a look at books published by Alpinverlag Jentschl-Rabl. Furthermore, Selection series of Rother are very nice as well. For climbers not speaking local language, Julian Alps in without the doubt the most difficult area, as there is not that much information available.
- : Himmelsleitern. At-Verlag, 2004. Isbn: 3855029822.
- : Alle 4000er der Alpen. At-Verlag, 2003. Isbn: 3855027978.
- : Die 4000er der Alpen. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother.
- : Die Viertausender der Alpen, 12 edition. 2001. Isbn: 3763374272.
- : The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes - a guide for mountaineers. Bâton Wicks, 2003. Isbn: 1898573565.
- : The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes - a guide for mountaineers. Bâton Wicks, 1991. Isbn: 1-898573-13-1.
- : 4000er - 36 klassische Gipfelziele. Bruckmann Verlag, 2002. Isbn: 3765439215.
- : 4000er - Die Normalwege auf alle Viertausender in den Alpen, 10 edition. Bruckmann Verlag, 2004. Isbn: 3765439975.
- : 3000er in den Alpen - Die Normalwege. Bruckmann Verlag, 2004. Isbn: 3765436615.
- : Die Traumgipfel der Schweiss. Bruckmann Verlag, 2002. Isbn: 3765437530.
- : The 4000m Peaks of the Alps - Selected Climbs. Alpine Club, 2007. Isbn: 9780900523663.
- : Im steilen Eis. 1980. Isbn: 3-405-12158-2.
- Advice for Climbing in the Alps
- At Cosley & Houston.
- Alpin Archive
- Containing information about all the 4000m mountains in the Alps and more. A resource to mountains.
- Alpine grades of 4000ers in the Alps (normal routes)
- Blattschnittübersicht - Wanderkarten
- Overview map of Kompass Wanderkarten. Also available as Google Earth version from the page.
- Bücher für Bergsteiger, Kletterer und Wanderer
- Links to various guidebooks covering mainly German-Speaking parts of European Alps by Markus Stadler.
- Choosing a Climb in European Alps
- At Cosley & Houston.
- Einteilung der Alpen in Gebirgsgruppen
- Information about the subranges in the Alps. Excellent page with overview maps.
- freytag & berndt Wanderkarten
- Overview map at freytag & berndt.
- go-mountain.com
- Route info. In Italian but often with route photos and/or topos.
- Heading to the Alps?
- Up-to-date essential information on eight Alpine areas - an invaluable aid to planning your next trip. By Irish Alpine Association.
- Kartenübersicht
- Ovierview of Alpenverein maps. Contains the maps published by Austrian and German Alpine clubs and covering the alpine areas of those countries as well as few other areas.
- Landeskarte der Schweiz 1:25 000
- Overview map of Swiss maps at Swisstopo.
- Overview if IGN topographic maps
- Institut Géographique National (IGN) topographic maps cover France.
- Tabacco Wanderkarten
- Overview map of Tabacco Wanderkarten (1:25 000) of Italy at Casa Editrice Tabacco.
- Topographische Karte 1:25 000 (TK25)
- Overview map at Bayerische Vermessungsvervaltung.
- Wanderkarten
- Links to various maps covering mainly German-Speaking parts of European Alps by Markus Stadler.
- Österreichische Karte
- http://www.bev.gv.at Bundesamt für Eich- und Messungswesen
British Isles
Considering how (relatively) flat British Islands are, Britan has certainly had a big impact in a development of climbing. Biritsh climbers played an important role in exploring the high peaks of Himalaya. Also, Lake District and Scottish mountains have had significant influence in the development of clean climbing and ice climbing respectively. <<<more>>.
Caucasus
Note: There are alternative ways of spelling many names in Asian ranges.
Caucasus range, extending 1200km between Black Sea in the west and Caspian Sea in the east, forms both geographic, ethnic and political barrier between Europe and Asia. North to south the range extends maximally 180km. Although it is the home to the highest mountains of the Europe, the area is relatively little known among western climbers, as the access was formerly difficult. There are seven peaks above 5000m. The Great Caucasus is traditionally divided into three regions - Western, Central and Eastern, with conventional borders coming through two highest peaks: Mt. Elbrus (5642m) to the west and Mt. Kazbek (5033m) to the east.
To the north of Caucasus lies Russia. Northern side is the most commonly used access to the climbs in Caucasus. Mineral'nyee can be reached by plane from Moscow and Kiev. From there it is a short train trip to Pyaigark, from where the climbs are reachable by car. To the south of Caucasus lie Transcaucasian region with countries Georgia, Azerbaijjan, Armenia and Dagestan.
Central Caucasus between Mount Elbrus (5642m) in the west and Mount Kazbek (5033m) in the east forms the heart of the whole range containing the highest mountains. Glaciers, wide rock and ice faces and razor-sharp arétes are characteristic for the area. Elbrus Region and Bezengi area are the best known climbing destinations. Mount Kazbek (5033m) in the eastern part of central Caucasus has easy snow routes to their summits.
Caucasus was popular climbing destination during Soviet-era, thus there are several alpine camps and hotels in the valleys of the area. Except for Refuge Eleven (Prijut 11) there are no wardened high altitude refuges. However, there are few bivouac huts especially in the Elbrus area. Nearest convenient center to access climbing destinations from is Mineral'nyee Vody on the Russian side. It can be reached by plane from Moscow and Kiew (and sometimes from some other cities as well). From there climbing regions can be accessed by roads (railway can also be used for the first part). Another convenient center is Nalchik, located somewhat closer to Bezingi.
Climate to the southern side of the Caucasian ridge is considerably warmer and moister than on the northern side. Temperatures in the low valleys, especially in the western part, are warm. Best time fro trekking and climbing is considered to be the second half July and August. During that period the weather is usually stable. <<more>>.
Nordic Countries
If you are in search for a quality climbing in Scandinavia, the safe bet is to go to Norway. There are all types of good climbing from alpine climbing (also Swedish Lappland has worthwhile destinations) to long rock routes, bigwalls to sport climbing. Good sport climbing is found also on other parts of the area, although generally on single pitch routes. Because of the geography, it is hardly a great surprise that Scandinavia has plenty of ice climbing. Once again Noway is a place to go, Norway can hold to its own in comparison with any area of the world when it comes to waterfall ice. <<<more>>.
Pyrenees
Central Pyrenees
Madaleta Massif
Madaleta Massif, located entirely in Dpain is the home of the three of the highest Pyrenean peaks, Pico de Aneto 3404m, Pico de Posets 3375m and the Monte Perdido 3355m in the end of Ordesa valley. For the climbs in Madaleta massif, mountain village of Banasque in valley of Benasque is centrally located. It can be reached from Toulouse (France) or from Barcelona (Spain).
- Maladeta Massif
- Area page at SummitPost.
Vignemale Massif
Highest peak in Vignemale massif in Pique Longue (aka Grand Vignemale, 3298m), the 4th highest peak in the Pyrenees. While normal route from the southern side via Ossue glacier is easy (F+-PD, II+), over 800m high north face has superb variety of technical climbs on Petit Vignemale (3032m), Aiguille des Glaciers, Pointe Chausenque Glaciers (3204m), Piton Carré Glaciers (3197m) and Pique Longue. Few ridges and buttresses aside (AD-D) the routes are mainly very difficult (TD-ED).
Vignemale massif is most conveniently accessed from the Spanish side from Bujaruelo and from Cauterets on the French side.
- Vignemale Massif
- Area page at SummitPost.
Cirque de Gavarnie
Cirque de Gavarnie on the French side of Pyrenees is a large rocky amphitheater that rises 1500m from the bottom. It is surrounded by several peaks rising over 3000m. The highest peak of the area is Monte Perdido (3353m). Cirque de Gavarnie is the highest Limestone range in Europe.
Steep north face has several difficult routes. During the winter Cirque de Gavernie has host of high quality waterfall ice and mixed climbs.
The tourist town of Gavarnie is the base for climbs in the cirque (2h walk from the city to the base of the circue). There's easy acces to Gavarnie from France but no direct roads from Spanish side. However, the circue can be reached by foot from the Spanish town San Nicolas de Bujaruelo.
- : Gavarnie cascades de glace. Desnivel, 1995. Isbn: 8487746470.
- Cirque de Gavarnie
- Area page at SummitPost.
Pyrenees run from west to east along the border between Spain and France. There are 212 summits that rise above 3000m, with Pico de Aneto (3404m) being the highest. Generally northern (French) side is considerably steeper than southern (Spanish) side.
Apart from the attractive heights dominating the valleys of Hecho and Canfranc in the western Pyrenees, the mountaineer's paradise lies in Central Pyrenees, between the valleys of Tena and Benasque. Here the most important climbing areas of Madaleta and Vignemale massifs and amphitheatre of Cirque de Gavarnie. There are many fine mountaineering routes and an abundance of rock climbing within the area.
During the summer the weather is stable and especially on the Spanish side, hot. There are only few small glaciers and permanent snow fields in the range. However, during the winter there are several snow and both alpine ice and waterfall ice climbing. Especially cirque de Gavernie has host of high quality waterfall ice and mixed climbs.
- : Eatern Pyrenees. West Col Publishing, 1991. Isbn: 090622750X.
- : Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees. Cicerone Press, 2003. Isbn: 1852843284.
- : Rock Climbs in the Pyrenees. Cicerone Press, 1995. Isbn: 1852840390.
- Pyrenees
- Area page at SummitPost.
- Pyrenees
- Range page at Peakware.
- Pyrenees Climbing Guide
- Route descriptions with topos. At Sportextreme.com.
Iceland
Iceland is an island located southwest of Greenland. Due to impact of Gulf stream, climate is not as extremely cold as the arctic location might suggest. There are several volcanic peaks with Hvannadalshnukur (2119m) being the highest. The volcanoes are generally easy one day climbs, but tend to be snow-covered and icy.
As the name should suggest, Iceland has no shortage of ice climbing. The climbing season is from November to mid April, with February considered the best month. Currently Hvalfjordur, Glymsgil gorge, Malafjall and Paradisarheimt are probably the most climbed areas. However, there is huge scope for new routes all over.
- fjallamennska.is
- Mountaineering and hiking in Iceland. Includes general information about iceland and climbing in Iceland (ice and rock) and few suggested regions.
Greece
The Greek peninsula is comprised of several large islands, with hundreds of smaller islands rising in the surrounding seas. Greece is a mountaineous country, with many of its peaks rising close to if not directly out of the water. The Greek Mountains are essentially a continuation of the Dinaric Alps. The mountains have played important roles in the history of the Greek people. This is especially true for two of the most famous mountains, Olympus (2917m, the highest mountain of Greece) and Parnassus (2457m), both of which played important roles in Greek mythology. Mount Olympus is in fact the highest mountain in Greece.
Greece has plenty of good rock climbing. Especially small island of Kalymnos is considered to be one of the best places in whole Europe.
- : Kalymnos - rock climbing guide. Aharnon Alpine Club, 2003. Isbn: 960-85644-6-8.
- Kalymnos
- A Rock-Climbing Paradise in the Aegean.
- Kalymnos
- By Matt Heason. At PlanetFear.com.
Tatra
General
The Tatras located on Polish-Slovak border form the central, highest and most beautiful section of the Carpathian mountain range. Tatras is a small rugged massif, with the main Tatra ridge extending 51,5km from east to west and 15km from north to south. The high peaks of the Tatras, called "Smallest High Range in the World", are rugged rock peaks with a dramatic jagged crestline. They rise in a sudden cluster like an island of peaks in the surrounding valleys. The highest peak of the range is Gerlach in Slovakia (2655m) and there are dozens of other rising to over 2000m, and crags often fall over 600m into deep cirques. There are both summer and winter climbing. Skiing and especially off piste skiing in the high valleys is also popular.
The Tatras mountainous climate is cold due to high altitude, with much precipitation. Fierce rainstorms or snowstorms all of a sudden are common. For summer climbing, late June and early August provide good conditions as there are heavy storms in late summer. Earlier than this there's much snow. Early to mid October just before the snow arrives may have the best conditions. Heavy snowfalls can occur as early as October and excellent winter climbing can extend till the end of April. Snow lingers in gullies all year round.
The High Tatra is truly an alpine rock climbers paradise since there are no nasty glaciers about and the snow is mostly gone by June, though it may linger in some of the shaded valleys until late August. There are literally hundreds of alpine rock and face climbs. Most importaly the rock quality (granite and gneiss) is on a par with Yosemite and the routes are well established and protected.
In winter Tatras have plenty of ice and mixed climbing. The mountain granite is often very blocky, not dissimilar in form and texture to that found in the Cairngorms of Scotland. It can also be quite vegetated turf). Faces on the Polish side of the range tend to be short on drainage, giving predominantly mixed climbing, but in contrast the Slovakian valleys hold noticeably much more ice. Tatra can often experience a fast freeze-thaw build up of conditions, especially later in the season. Combined with typically fierce cold northerly winds from Poland, this can produce very hard snow.
The whole Polish Tatras area now constitutes the Tatra National Park TPN), whose equivalent on the Slovak side is the Tatransky narodny park (TANAP). They are covered by special regulations governing the behavior of tourist in order to preserve the original fauna and flora of the Tatras (as well as the business of local guides. This also affects climbing, so be sure to check the current restrictions.
The area is easily accessible with trails and several mountain huts. The second highest peak in the range, Lomnicky Stit (2634m), well-known to climbers for its classic rock routes on the sheer wall of the West Face, has a cablecar to the summit. Best known convenient centers are Zakopane in Poland and Poprad in Slovakia.
Both summer and winter routes are given a traditional UIAA numerical grading. There is no real winter grading system in the High Tatra at present, though climbers who have traveled outside Slovakia in recent years are now able to relate to French ice grades and are using them on new routes. A route graded UIAA V or V+ in winter (the grade usually reflects the technical grade of the hardest pitch) will generally equate to Scottish 6, or more.
As regards type of landscape, geological structure and type of rock, the Tatras may be divided into three parts: the Western Tatras (Tatry Zachodnie), the High Tatras (Tatry Wysokie) and the Bielskie Tatras (Tatry Bielskie). The tallest and most frequented part of this range are the High Tatras. The sharp, stony peaks owe their shape to glaciers, which shaped the High Tatras many thousands of years ago. Nowadays there are no glaciers but there are permanent snow fields. The majority of High Tatra peaks lie in Slovakia. Most important areas for climbing are Gerlach, Dolina Zelenho plesa and Javorov Valley in Slovakia and Morskie Oko in Poland.
- WKSK1 (High Tatra & Western Tatra), 1:50000. Freytag & Berndt. ISBN: 3850847861.
- (Tatra National Park), 1:25000. Sygnatura, 2005.
- Tatra mountaineering pages
- overview map with huts
- Tatra National Park (Tatrazanski Park Narodowsy)
- Areas for climbing and rock-climbing
- Climbing regulations on the Tatransky narodny park (TANAP, Slovakia)
- Tatra
- Area page at SummitPost.
- Vysok Tatry
Slovakian Tatra
Mengusovská Dolina (Gerlach)
The highest peak of Slovakia is Gerlach (Gerlachovsky, 2655). Gerlach is located in the southeastern part of Tatra in large Mengusovská valley (with side valleys Zlomisková Dolina, Velická Dolina and Batizovská Dolina). Its also possible to climb Rusy from the same valley.
- Highest peak in Tatra and whole Carpathian range. W Face is 400m high, has good rock and several rock routes. East face has several mixed winter routes (grades V-VI).
| 1834 | First ascent | supposedly by Johann Still & co |
- Gerlach, Slovakia
- Photo trip report of winter climbing
- 500m high couloir (length 800m) on the east face followed by a traverse north over the summit
- Sco IV (winter), 50°. 7h
- From south side
- I (sort of ferrata). 4,5h
- From south side
- I (sort of ferrata). 3,5h
- North side. Via Polský hreben, Velický stit, Litvorovy stit and Zadny Gerlahovský to the summit.
- III (sections)
Dolina Ke marskej Bielej Vody
Slovakian valley Dolina Kezmarskej Bielej Vody and its side valleys Dolina Zeleného plesa and Skalnatá Dolina in the Southeast part if High Tatra is one of the main climbing destinations in Tatra. Highest peak of the area is Lomnicky Stit (2634m, the second highest in Tatra). Despite the fact that there's a lift to the summit, there are plenty of climbing routes. Most impressive feature of the area is however Maly Kiezmarski (2514m) with 1000m high north face, that has host of routes from traditional classic routes to modern extreme routes.
- The second highest mountain in Tatra. There are several climbing routes. Normal route is NW snow field. West face has best rock quality.
- Located immediately northeast of Lomnicky Stit and overlooking the Brncalova Hut, Dolina Zelenho plesa (valley of Green Lake).
- A2/3 or f7b/UIAA VIII/VIII+. 13 pitches
| 1967-03-19 | First winter ascent | Pavol Pochyly & Josef Zrust 13.-19.03.1967 |
| 1987-09-16 | First free ascent | Michal & Miroslav Coubal |
- UIAA IV. During the winter SCO VI,6. 850m
| 1932-07-13 | First ascent | Chwascinski, Stanislawski & Ostrowski to the Nemecky Rebrik (diagonal ramp in the midway) 12.-13.07.1932 |
| 1932-08-04 | First ascent | Stanislawski & Vogel |
| 1953-03-20 | First winter ascent | Karel German & Arno Puskas 19.-20.03.1953 |
- III/WI5/5+
| 1950 | First ascent | Karel Bocek, L.Hofirek & R.Kusova |
Javorov Valley
Javorov valley of Slovakia is located in the northeastern part of High Tatra, to the NW of Dolina Ke marskej Bielej Vody and separated from it by the main ridge. It is one of the finest and most reliable areas for winter climbing in the Slovakian High Tatra. The extensive 400m high rock walls that extend west from the 2307m Ostry Stit over the various Javorovy peaks (Velky Javorovy, the Maple Peak: 2417m) and Javorov peaks give a fantastic collection of ice and mixed climbing, while elsewhere lie fine, steep but shorter icefalls.
At the head of the Javorov Valley and just northeast of the 2372m Sedielko Pass stands Mala Ladova Stit (2602m: Little Icy Peak). Mala Ladova Veza, North Face "The Chimney of the Vertigos", One of the most difficult ice routes in the region, First ascent by Marian Marek in 1981.
Polish Tatra
Morskie Oko
The most popular climbing base on Polish side is Morskie Oko Lake located to the east of Dolina Gasienicowa. The area has plenty of hard climbing, both during the summer and winter. 500m high overhanging north face of Kazalnica Mieguszowiecka Wall (The Pulpit, 2438m) is probably the most demanding in the Polish Tatra. The lower (2499m) of the two peaks of Rusy (2503m) is the highest point in Poland, and therefore the mountain is climbed by a lot of people from the Polish side (UIAA I). It is a very steep uphill, but does not require technical climbing. Separate climbing routes are some of the best in the country. The slopes on the Slovakian side are a lot gentler. Other climbing attractions include steep pinnacle of Mnich.
- summits:
- Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Czarny (Vychodny Mengusovky stit) (2410m)
- Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Posredni (Prostredny Mengysovsky Stit) (2392m)
- Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki (Vel'ky Mengusovsky stit) (2438m)
- Morskie Oko
Dolina Gasienicowa
Hala Gasienicowa located in Dolina Gasienicowa, to the west of Morskie Oko and to the east of the city of Zakopane is a popular climbing base in Polish Tatra. It is easily accessible from Kuznice (bus from Zakopane). There's a large hut "Murowanice" (1500m). Main peaks of the area are Swinica (2301m) and Koscielec (2155m).
- summits:
- North summit (2155m)
- Koscielcowa Pass (2115m)
- South summit (Zadi Koscielec) (2162m)
Canary Islands
- : Rock Climbs in Mallorca. 2000.
- Climbing in Corsica: the granite island
- Tim Glasby. At PlanetFear.com.
- Climbing in Mallorca
- Adrian Berry. At PlanetFear.com.
- Climbing in Tenerife
- Matt Heason. At PlanetFear.com.
- Klimmen op Tenerife
- Tenerife
- Climbing guide at Rockfax.
- Tenerife climbing guide
- At Sportextreme.com.
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