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Tien Shan

Peak Khan Tengri. (Uighur, literally "King Heaven", translated as "Lord of the spirits", or "Lord of the sky"; or Turkic translated as "Ruler of Skies", "Ruler Tengri"). Source: . Credit: The Real Kvass, Shot on 2011-07-16 Photo taken in Inylcek glacier, Kyrgyzstan. Licensed under: Public Domain.

Tien Shan mountain range, meaning Heavenly Mountains, is 800 km wide and 2800 km long mountain system located in Central Asia northeast of Pamir and north of Kunlun Shan, extending from Uzbekistan to Mongolia. It is extended further north by the Bogda Mountains, and further still by the Altai Mountains along China's northern border. The highest peak is Pik Pobeda (Jengish Chokusu, 7439m). There are more than thirty peaks close to, or over, 6000 meters above sea level, the predominant height of summits in the Tien Shan is 4000-5000m and passes range between heights of 3500-4500m.

About Tien Shan

Extensive Tien Shan consists of multiple ranges which are mainly long ridge-like formations running generally west to east and are separated by natural features. How the range is split into subsections varies somewhat between different sources. Particularly Kyrgyz Ala-Too with famous Ala-Archa valley are considered to belong to Western Tien Shan. If that is not the case, they are considered to belong to Northern Tien Shan.

• Western Tien Shan Ranges forming Western Tien Shan rise to the north of extensive Fergana valley, mostly in the upper western fork of Kyrgyzstan, more or less along the border of Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. By far the best known climbing destination of the area is Ala Archa valley located in Kyrgyzskiy range. It is also the highest part of Western Tien Shan with several peaks above 4500m and culminating at Semenov-Tien Shanskiy (4875m). In other parts of Western Tien Shan, Chatkal peak (4503m) in Chatkal range, Manas peak (4482m) in Talaskiy Alatau and Baubashata mountains (4427m) in the western part of the Fergansky ridge are the highest points of the main ranges.
• Northern Tien Shan Northern Tien Shan covers areas north of Issyk Kul lake. The best known peak of the area is Pik Talgar (5020m). This part of Tien Shan is most commonly approached from Almaty in Kazakhstan.
• Central Tien Shan Central Tien Shan consists of the mountain ranges that go from south and east of Lake Issyk Kul. For climbers, this is the most fascinating area in Tien Shan. Eastern part of Central Tien Shan is home to highest peaks, dominated by giants Pobeda peak (7439m) and the fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). These are the two most northerly located 7000-meter mountains in the world, and they attract mountain climbers from all over the world. But it is really surprising that most of the peaks around them have not even been given a name.
• Eastern Tien Shan Chinese and Russian parts of Tien Shan. Climbing potential of eastern Tien Shan is largely unexplored. The highest peaks of eastern Tien Shan are found on the Chinese groups, not far from 7000ers of Internal Tien Shan.

• Tien Shan general scheme. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.

Climbing in Tien Shan

Different parts of Tien Shan are vastly different as far as climbing goes:

• Internationally by far the most famous area is Internal Tien Shan with the two colosses: Pik Pobeda and Khan Tengri. As they are significantly more difficult than 7000ers of Pamir they see nowhere near the traffic of the Pamit giants, but are arguably more interesting from alpinists point of view. The area is remote; virtually all access is with helicopters from Kyrgyzstan.
• Much lower Ala Archa valley near capital Biskhkek is far more accessible. Here the peaks are significantly lower but offer interesting selection of 4000-5000m high peaks on a very compact area. The valley was very popular during the Soviet era and thus the selection of routes at all grades is larger than on anywhere else in the range.
• During the recent years Western Kokshaal-Too has gained popularity. Particularly Kyzyl-Asker has become sought after objective. The area appears to have spectabular peaks between 5000-6000m high but is reported to have bad weather. it is also much more remote.
• Climbing potential of eastern Tien Shan is largely unexplored.

The Tien Shan is well glaciated: it has 7787 glaciers, the biggest one being the South Ingylchek glacier. The climate tends to be severe, it is characterized by sudden variations and frequent rainfall, phenomena connected to the vicinity of the Takla Makan desert. Especially northern parts of the range has very low temperatures. The snow line is at a much lower altitude than in the neighboring Pamir (at around (3200m). Most suitable time for climbing the big peaks is July and August. September may have stabler weather but it is also colder. Lower ranges located in Western Tien Shan have generally better weather.

Normal route on Khan Tengri is popular and commercial parties operate regularly on it, thus information about the routes is easy enough to come by. The same applies to Pik Pobeda and some relatively recent very difficult routes which are covered by Alpinist, Alpine Journals etc. Information about older routes and those falling in between the two aforementioned groups is significantly harder to get by. Russians probably have that information somewhere, but the only English guidebook I am aware of is Forbidden Mountains: The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia.Kopylov, Vladimir & Sicouri, Paola PozzoliniIndutech1994978-1-871890-88-4978-1-871890-88-4Forbidden MountainsGuidebooken which covers such an area, that it obviously can't go too much into detail in regards of specific area.

One aspect to note when searching for information about the Tien Shan is that in addition to regular naming issues (several languages, no fixed translitteration to English), there are issues of more political kind. Namely several of the peaks have been renamed, few several times. In some cases the new official name has not really stuck.

Lot of older routes are named after first ascent party leader. During the soviet era ascent parties were large teams operating under formal leadership of team leader and often only team leader is named. Therefore even if the first ascent party lists only one name, it does typically not mean a solo ascent.

• Kopylov, Vladimir & Sicouri, Paola Pozzolini: Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia. Isbn: 978-1-871890-88-4. Indutech, 1994.
• Maier, Frith: Trekking in Russia and Central Asia - A Traveler's Guide. Isbn: 0898863554. Mountaineers Books, 1994.

• Central Tien Shan. 9780906227619. EWP, 1996. 1:150.000. 1:150,000 4 colour ridge map. Reverse side: 1:2,500,000 access map, general information. Bi-sected by the South Inylchek Glacier this Central Tien Shan map includes concise information on access, visas, climate & weather, flora and fauna, mountaineering, glaciers and geomorphology.
• Kyrgyzstan - a climber's map and guide. 9781933056005. American Alpine Club, 2006-03. 1:50.000; 1:150.000; 1:200.000. This American Alpine Club map-guide to the Kyrgyzstan region features beautiful satellite-based topo maps AND provides practical & historical text about several of its most interesting mountain ranges, the Tien Shan and the Pamir Alai, along with a number of smaller groups. Peaks for the Western Kokshaal-Too, Ala-Archa and Karashvin mountain ranges are included. The text for this AAC map-guide was written by Garth Willis of The Alpine Fund, a Kyrgyzstan-based charity that takes at-risk children into the mountains. The cartography is by Martin Gamache of the Alpine Mapping Guild, who has turned topo maps into an art form.
• Alpenvereisnkarte: 0/14 Inylchek - Tien Shan West (Kyrgyzstan). 9783937530024. DAV, 2008-05. 1:100.000. Exceptionally detailed and informative topographic map of the Tien Shan Mountains in Kyrgyzstan, prepared by the German Alpine Club using data from the Kyrgyz national survey organization and satellite imagery. Topography is shown by contours at 50m intervals with relief shading, plus numerous spot heights and peak names. Colouring and graphics indicate different types of vegetation (woods, meadows, swampy grassland, etc.) and soil cover (rocky outcrops, individual isolated rocks with height, caves, moraine, glaciers, etc.). Passes are classified according to the difficulty of traverse. Rivers and creeks indicate their width. The map shows local roads (paved, country lanes, dirt roads and forest tracks) and footpaths, as well as settlements and isolated buildings, bridges passable by vehicles or on foot, fuel and water tanks, etc. Assent and descent routes, base camp and possible camp sites are highlighted. The map has a UTM grid with latitude and longitude margin ticks at 5' intervals. Map legend is in English, German and Russian. Also included are tri-lingual notes on using this map with GPS units.
• Alpenvereisnkarte: 0/15 Khan Tengri - Tien Shan East (Kyrgyzstan). 9783937530123. DAV, 2011-08. 1:100.000
• Central Asia: Almaty Map. 9780906227817. EWP. 1:500.000. A topographic map, with 100m intervals, of Almaty covering parts of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. One of a series of topographic maps covering the major cities & the Pamir & Tien Shan mountain ranges of Central Asia. The text size denotes population size on the map.
• Central Asia: Bishkek Map. 9780906227824. EWP. 1:500.000. Bishkek topographic map covering the major cities and the Pamir and Tien Shan mountain ranges of Central Asia. Bishkek is on the eastern side of the map midway between the top and the bottom, so most of the mapping is to the west on this map.
• Central Asia: Naryn Map. 9780906227862. EWP. 1:500.000. An EWP topographic map of Naryn in Kyrgyzstan along the Pamir & Tien Shan mountain ranges of Central Asia. This map also includes part of China to the south. Contours are at 100m intervals with contour shading.
• Kyrgyzstan Touristic Map. At La Historia con mapas.
• Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan. At ITMB Publishing.

• Mountaineering regions of Kyrgyzstan. Mountains cover 95% of the territory of Kyrgyzstan and 40% of those are above 3,000 meters high. There are many regions where the foot of climber has never stepped. In Kyrgyzstan such regions as high vertical walls or 5,000 meters and over mountains are well explored. Anything besides aforementioned is not of any interest for climbers, especially if it’s lower than 4,000 m. Thousands of accessible and gorgeous summits are still virgin. By Vladimir Komissarov on 2015.
• Tien Shan. Tien Shan at Vladimir Kopylov's webpage. He is the author of Forbidden Mountains: The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia.Kopylov, Vladimir & Sicouri, Paola PozzoliniIndutech1994978-1-871890-88-4978-1-871890-88-4Forbidden MountainsGuidebooken. The site includes information about the mountain rage and about climbing routes on most significant mountains. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.
• Kyrgyzstan: a Climbers’ Guide. Located in the heart of Central Asia, in a space the size of South Dakota, Kyrgyzstan sits landlocked in a twisted maze of borders left from the Soviet past. With half the country lying above 2,500 meters, 94 percent of Kyrgyzstan is mountainous. The country has two major ranges, the Tien Shan and the Pamir Alai, with a number of smaller groups that segment the country like a pie-chart. By Garth Willis.
• Tian Shan. Range page. At SummitPost.
• Tien Shan. Alpine Journal articles by area. At Alpine Journal.
• Tien Shan. At American Alpine Journal.
• Kyrgyz Range. Guidebook: Mountaineering regions of Kyrgyzstan. At Kyrgyz Alpine Club.
• Tien Shan. At K2 Adventures.

Areas

Source: . Credit: Michael Karavanov, Shot on 2011-07-16 Photo taken in Kyrgyzstan. Licensed under: Public Domain.

Western Tien Shan

General

Ranges forming Western Tien Shan rise to the north of extensive Fergana valley, mostly in the upper western fork of Kyrgyzstan, more or less along the border of Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. By far the best known climbing destination of the area is Ala Archa valley located in Kyrgyzskiy range. It is also the highest part of Western Tien Shan with several peaks above 4500m and culminating at Semenov-Tien Shanskiy (4875m). In other parts of Western Tien Shan, Chatkal peak (4503m) in Chatkal range, Manas peak (4482m) in Talaskiy Alatau and Baubashata mountains (4427m) in the western part of the Fergansky ridge are the highest points of the main ranges.

Ala Archa lies close to Bishkek and is very accessible from there. The rest of the ranges are located closer to Tashkent. Alpine camp Chimgan is convenient base for some of the valleys.

• Chatkalky range Westernmost part of Tien Shan. The range forms NW border of Fergana valley. Range highpoint is Chatkal (4503m).
• Fergansky range NE border of Fergana valley. Range highpoint is Baubashata (4427m).
• Talassky Alatau (Talas range). Located to the north of Chatkalky and Fergansky ranges. The highest peak is Manas Peak (4482m).
• Kyrgyzskiy Westernmost group of Northern Tien Shan, sometimes considered to be part of Western Tien Shan instead of belonging to Northern Tien Shan. Kyrgyzskiy range is the most accessible part of Tien Shan, where well-known climbing area of Ala-Archa is located, just 40km away from Bishkek.

• Maier pp.204-206; 211-215

• West Tien-Shan Mountains. At ClimberCA.com.
• Exploratory first ascents in Kyrghyzstan. This summer Katya Ananyeva, Dmitry Martynenko and Dmitry Shapovalov left Osh to explore the Jamantay (aka Jamantau) and southern Fergana ranges of Kyrghyzstan, moderately high mountain groups with no previous history of climbing activity. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-11-02.

Ala Archa

Good quality climbing and comfortable approaches make Ala-Archa valley the most frequented in the whole Tien Shan. The area has diverse routes ranging from entry-level routes (grade 1) up to serious big wall climbing (grade 6B) and involving ice, rock, or mixed ground. Rock is mainly granite and gneiss. As a rule it is solid, but shattered and rotten pitches are encountered as well. The highest peak in the region is Semyonov-Tien-Shan (4875m). Korona (4860m), Peak Free Korea (4740m) and Aktoo (4640m) are also popular among climbers.

The area is sheltered from warm southern winds, thus high mountains are excessively glaciated. Weather can be excellent from mid-June to mid-September with the best time for climbing on most routes being July-August while winter climbing is done in January and February (best time for some ice routes). Typical weather pattern is worsening in the afternoon and clearing in the evening. Several days of snowfalls and thick fog are possible, but then the three huts under the routes allow to sit it out.

Access to the valley is very easy. Ala-Archa Camp (2100m) can be reached from Bishkek by car (40km). It was onece the oldest and biggest of Soviet mountaineering camps. Nowadays it is run-down. From there there is a good path to Ratsek hut on the moraine of northern rand of Ak-Sai glacier at 3350m, 7km, 4-5h from Ala-Archa Camp. There are three other huts higher up the valley, one on Uchitel glacier under the north face first tower of Korona peak (and the spurs of Semyonov-Tien-Shan, 3-4h from Ratsek hut) and two at the junction of the Korona and Aksai glaciers (Korona Huts, ~3800m, 2-3h from Ratsek hut.

• Forbidden Mountains pp.115-119
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2011, isbn: 9781933056715, pp: 234.'Ala Archa' by Sergey Dashkevich.

• Western Tien Shan map/Ala-Archa. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.
• Map of Ala-Archa
• Ala-Archa

• Western Tien-Shan - Ala-Archa region. Ala-Archa from the author of Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia (Vladimir Kopylov & P. Sicouri, 1994). The site includes information about the mountain range and about climbing routes on most significant peaks. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.
• Ala Archa. Search result at risk.ru. At least most of the results are in russian. At Risk online.
• Climbing in Ala Archa National Park. Simply put, the Ak Sai region in Ala Archa National Park is one of the best climbing areas anywhere in the world. For any climbing trip to Kyrgyzstan it is a must go to region and the best way to warm up before heading out on longer expeditions. Actually in the end you can travel all over Kyrgyzstan looking for great climbing and in the end the best walls are right outside the capital city, 40 kilometers outside of Bishkek. At Kyrgyzstan: a Climbers’ Guide.
• Ala-Archa gorge. Photo trip report. At K2 Adventures.

Northern Tien Shan

Northern Tien Shan covers areas north of Issyk Kul lake. The best known peak of the area is Pik Talgar (5020m). This part of Tien Shan is most commonly approached from Almaty in Kazakhstan.

• Maier pp.206-220

• Northern Tien Shan. Includes information about the routes, map and route topos. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.

Central Tien Shan

Central Tien Shan consists of the mountain ranges that go from south and east of Lake Issyk Kul. For climbers, this is the most fascinating area in Tien Shan. Eastern part of Central Tien Shan is home to highest peaks, dominated by giants Pobeda peak (7439m) and the fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). These are the two most northerly located 7000-meter mountains in the world, and they attract mountain climbers from all over the world. But it is really surprising that most of the peaks around them have not even been given a name.

The weather of the area is bad. July and August are generally considered the best months for climbing but even then the weather is not very stable. September has more settled weather, but then the temperatures are lower. Access to these areas are usually either from Almaty or Bishkek (capital of Kyrgistan), both of which have international airports.

• Terskey-Alatau In the western part of Central Tien Shan, immediately south of Issyk-Kul lake, lies Karakol - Djeti-Oguz region. Here the best known mountains are Karakol (5218m), Djety-Oguz (5118m) and Dzhigit (5020m). Most convenient access to most climbs is from Karakol alpine camp, which can be reached from the city of Karakol.
• Kokshaal-Tau Kokshaal-Tau (or Kokshaal-Too) is a very large mountain range in SE of Kyrgyzstan, on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. The range stretches for a length of 582 km and includes several peaks above 5000m. The highest and by far most famous peak of the range is Peak Pobeda (7439m), which is located in the eastern part, nor far from Khan Tengri of Internal Tien Shan. Kokshaal Too is often divided into two by Bedel pass (4284m).
• Internal Tien Shan Internal Tien Shan is are around South and North Inylchek areas, where number of ranges join together. Most of the ranges run west to east and joing at north to south ridge of Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge along which the border between Kazakhstan and China in the north and Kyrgyzstan and China in the south runs. The area is home to highest peaks of entire Tien Shan, Pobeda peak (7439m) on Kokshaal-Too chain and the fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). These aside, also Saridjaz range in Bayancol area in SW corner of Kazakhstan has several high peaks.

• Mountain Info, #516 issue: 34, date: 2007-12.'Ak-Shirak'
• Mountain Info, #535 issue: 53, date: 2009-07.'Ak-Shirak'
• Mountain Info, #535 issue: 53, date: 2009-07.'Torugart-too'
• Maier pp.220-232

• Expedition on Tian-Shan. Ascents of Mt.Khan-Tengri (7010m) and Pik Pobedy (Victory Peak, 7439m). Good maps and topos. By S. Kalmykov.
• Exploratory Alpinism in Kyrgyzstan. "This summer, climbing parties established new routes in the scarcely visited Djangart Valley and Torugart-Too mountains of Kyrgyzstan." By Meghan Ward at Alpinist on 2010-010-05.

Eastern Tien Shan

Chinese and Russian parts of Tien Shan. Climbing potential of eastern Tien Shan is largely unexplored. The highest peaks of eastern Tien Shan are found on the Chinese groups, not far from 7000ers of Internal Tien Shan.

• Xuelian Group Xuelian Massif in Chinese Tien Shan is a 15km ridge with at least six distinct summits over 6000m. It is located just across the border from Kyrgyzstan's 6995m Khan Tengri and Inylchek Glaciers. Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand's ascent of Xuelian West (6422m), via a hard technical line dubbed the Great White Jade Heist, gained them a prestigious Piolet d'Or in 2010.
• Bodga range Bogda range is located immediately northeast of Tien Shan range in western China. The heavily glaciated range forms the northern border of Turpan Depression, where elevation is 150m below sea level. The valleys on southern side of the range are hot, dry, very windy, and comparatively treeless, while the northern side is densely covered in forests. The highest peak of the range is Bogda Peak (or Bogda Feng, 5445m). Its close proximity to the local capital of Urumqi makes it a popular mountain for Chinese mountaineers.
• Altai Altai range is eastern continuation of Bogda range.

Mountains

Kyrgyzskiy

Westernmost group of Northern Tien Shan, sometimes considered to be part of Western Tien Shan instead of belonging to Northern Tien Shan. Kyrgyzskiy range is the most accessible part of Tien Shan, where well-known climbing area of Ala-Archa is located, just 40km away from Bishkek.

Kyrgyzskiy

Zailiysky Alatau

Zailiysky Alatau range in northern Tien-Shan is extensive mountain system laying to north from the largest lake of Central Asia, Issyk-Kul, and to the south from Almaty city, which until recently was the capital of Kazakhstan. Here lies Zailiski Alatau range with popular Talgar Peak (5020m or 4937m). The range has several peaks between 4000 and 5000m high around Talgar valley. The area is mainly accessed from Kazakhstan.

• Alma Ata

• Mountaineering Routes in the North Tien-Shan. At HeritageNet-Central Asia.
• Mountaineering Routes. Route descriptions of climbing routes accessible from Alma Ata. At Morgana Travel Agency.

Zailiysky Alatau

Terskey-Alatau

In the western part of Central Tien Shan, immediately south of Issyk-Kul lake, lies Karakol - Djeti-Oguz region. Here the best known mountains are Karakol (5218m), Djety-Oguz (5118m) and Dzhigit (5020m). Most convenient access to most climbs is from Karakol alpine camp, which can be reached from the city of Karakol.

• Mountain Info, #516 issue: 34, date: 2007-12.'Karakol Valley'

• Karacol - Djeti-Oguz area. Includes information about the routes, map and route topos. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.

Kokshaal-Tau

Kokshaal-Tau (or Kokshaal-Too) is a very large mountain range in SE of Kyrgyzstan, on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. The range stretches for a length of 582 km and includes several peaks above 5000m. The highest and by far most famous peak of the range is Peak Pobeda (7439m), which is located in the eastern part, nor far from Khan Tengri of Internal Tien Shan. Kokshaal Too is often divided into two by Bedel pass (4284m).

• Western Kokshaal-Too Western Kokshaal-Too around Kyzyl-Asker has piqued interest of many visiting climbers during the recent years, where several parties have been drawn to SE face of Kyzyl-Asker and the peaks around it. Also, Eastern part of the group with Pik Dankova (5982m), the highest peak of entire Western Kokshaal-Too. Central part of the range is least explored of the areas.
• Eastern Kokshaal-Too Kokshaal-Too main ridge runs generally west to east some distance away from South Inylchek with numerous south-north branches reaching into the glacier, not far from South Inylchek Base camp. The main peak of the area is the massive Peak Pobeda (7439m), located on the main range. On its east side, at the junction of Kokshaal-Too main ridge and south-north Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge lies Peak of Military Topographers (6873m). On the northern side branches, Pik Pogrebetskiy (6527m) is the highest peak. Pik Pobeda is pretty much the only regularly climbed climbed objective in the area.

Peak Pobeda aside, generally not a lot is known about the climbing potential of the range. Kokshaal-Tau has nasty and unstable weather, even in the summer.

Western Kokshaal-Too

Western Kokshaal-Too around Kyzyl-Asker has piqued interest of many visiting climbers during the recent years, where several parties have been drawn to SE face of Kyzyl-Asker and the peaks around it. Also, Eastern part of the group with Pik Dankova (5982m), the highest peak of entire Western Kokshaal-Too. Central part of the range is least explored of the areas.

• Mountain Info, #516 issue: 34, date: 2007-12.'Western Kokshaal-Too'
• Mountain Info, #535 issue: 53, date: 2009-07.'Western Kokshaal-Too'

• Western Kokshal-tau. Area page. At SummitPost.

Kyzyl-Asker group

• Mountain Info, #492 issue: 10, date: 2005-12.'Kyzyl Asker and The Great Walls of China'
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2011, isbn: 9781933056715, pp: 245.'Dzhirnagaktu Valley' by Tomasz Owerko.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2013, isbn: 9781933056791, pp: 272.'Dzhirnagaktu Glacier, various ascents' by Lindsay Griffin.

• The Central Tien-Shan, Mountain Range Western Kokshaal-Too, region of the Peak Kizil-Asker (5842 m). By Nikolay Bandalet at Mountain.ru.
• Quantum of Solace, Papert and Russegger breach the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan. After an aborted attempt on Mount Kyzyl Asker, Ines Papert and Wolfgang Russegger established Quantum of Solace (ABO, WI 7+, M7, 600m) up the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan. By Planetmountain at Planet Mountain on 2010-10-19.

Central group

• Mountain Info, #502 issue: 20, date: 2006-10.'Fersmana Glacier'
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2008, isbn: 9781933056074, pp: 311.'Central Kokshaal-Too, History Prior to 2007' by Lindsay Griffin.

• New peaks climbed in Western Kokshaal-too. The eastern (Dankova) and western (Kizil Asker; see the September 17 NewsWire regarding this peak's recently climbed east face) sectors of the Western Kokshaal-too have been explored by a number of (non-CIS) climbing parties. Since a French-German team traveled to the Dankova region in 1996 and an Anglo-American-German party to the Kizil Asker area in 1997, several recent teams have been investigating the little known central section. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-09-26.
• Rugged Kyrgyzstan: Exploring the Kokshall Too Range. In early July, the Slovenian Freeapproved Adventure Film Productions teama—comprised of myself, Jeglic, Orazem, Ortar, Rutar, Skrinjar, sumrada and Virc—headed off for a climbing, skiing and filming adventure in the Kokshall Too Range of Kyrgyzstan. The range borders China, and has been fairly well-visited in the far western and eastern ends. However, the middle part of these mountains are far less explored. And it's easy to imagine why. By Anze Cokl at Alpinist on 2008-08-09.
• British first ascents in the Kokshaal-too. Martin Jones, Edward Lemon, Gareth Mottram and Jacob Wrathall, all members of the King’s College London Alumni Mountaineering Club, formed this year's BMC Approved and MEF supported expedition to the unexplored Sarychat Glacier in Kyrghyzstan's Western Kokshaal-too. By Lindsay Griffin at The British Mountaineering Council on 2009-09-16.

Dankova group

• Mountain Info, #494 issue: 12, date: 2006-02.'Borkoldoy'
• American Alpine Journal, year: 1998, isbn: 9780930410780, pp: 341.'West Kokshaal-Tau, Dankova Group, Various Ascents' by High Mountain Sports.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2004, isbn: 9780930410957, pp: 347.'Kokshaal-Too, Borkolday Range, First Ascents' by Pat Littlejohn.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2005, isbn: 9780930410971, pp: 339.'Borkoldoy, Exploration and Various First Ascents' by Pat Littlejohn.

• Overview map. At Mountain.ru.

Internal Tien Shan

Internal Tien Shan is are around South and North Inylchek areas, where number of ranges join together. Most of the ranges run west to east and joing at north to south ridge of Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge along which the border between Kazakhstan and China in the north and Kyrgyzstan and China in the south runs. The area is home to highest peaks of entire Tien Shan, Pobeda peak (7439m) on Kokshaal-Too chain and the fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). These aside, also Saridjaz range in Bayancol area in SW corner of Kazakhstan has several high peaks.

Khan Tengri is well known and attracts climbers from all over the world. But it is really surprising that most of the peaks around them have not even been given a name. The area is remote and extensively glaciated, virtually all access to base camps is done using the helicopters. July and August are generally considered the best months for climbing but even then the weather is not very stable. September has more settled weather, but then the temperatures are lower.

• Kuyliu Located west of Saridjaz and south of Terskey Ala-Too. Some peaks rise to above 5000m but none of them is well known climbing objective.
• Saridjaz Saridjaz chain of peaks is located to the north of Inylchek river and North Inylcheg glacier, not far north from Khan Tengri. The range runs from west to east, with the peaks furthest to the east being the highest of the range, culminating at stunning Mramornaya Stena (Marble Wall) (6400m). The other high peaks of the chain are Kazakhstan (5761m), Bayancol (5841m), Semionova (5816m), Karli-Tau (5450m), Pogranichnik (5258m). Many of the peaks being relatively easy. Several climbs have been done from Bayancol valley located to the north of the range. Some routes have also been climbed from North Inylchek glacier.
• Tengri Tag Tengri Tag group consists of a single ridge running from west to east between North and South Inylchek glaciers. The range is dominated by fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). Besides it, Gorky Peak (6050,) in the western part of the ridge and East Shatyor (the Marquee, East, 6637m) are the other main peaks of the range.
• Engilchek Tau Located between Inychek river valley and South Inylchek glacier in the north and Kaindy glacier in the south. The highest peaks of the range is Nanseana Peak (5697m).
• Kaindy-Jatta range Sqeuuzed between Engilchek Tau in the north and Kokshaal Tau in the south. Several summits well above 5000m.
• Eastern Kokshaal-Too Kokshaal-Too main ridge runs generally west to east some distance away from South Inylchek with numerous south-north branches reaching into the glacier, not far from South Inylchek Base camp. The main peak of the area is the massive Peak Pobeda (7439m), located on the main range. On its east side, at the junction of Kokshaal-Too main ridge and south-north Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge lies Peak of Military Topographers (6873m). On the northern side branches, Pik Pogrebetskiy (6527m) is the highest peak. Pik Pobeda is pretty much the only regularly climbed climbed objective in the area.

• Mountain Info, #494 issue: 12, date: 2006-02.'Djungart Range'
• Mountain Info, #516 issue: 34, date: 2007-12.'Inylchek glacier'
• Mountain Info, #535 issue: 53, date: 2009-07.'Pik Vosni Alpinistok'

• Overview map of Inychek glacier area. At Wikimedia Commons.
• Overview map of Inychek glacier area. At Tour Khan-Tengri.
• Overview map of Internal Tien Shan. At K2 - the Spirit of Mountain Adventures....

Saridjaz

Saridjaz chain of peaks is located to the north of Inylchek river and North Inylcheg glacier, not far north from Khan Tengri. The range runs from west to east, with the peaks furthest to the east being the highest of the range, culminating at stunning Mramornaya Stena (Marble Wall) (6400m). The other high peaks of the chain are Kazakhstan (5761m), Bayancol (5841m), Semionova (5816m), Karli-Tau (5450m), Pogranichnik (5258m). Many of the peaks being relatively easy. Several climbs have been done from Bayancol valley located to the north of the range. Some routes have also been climbed from North Inylchek glacier.

• Mountain Info, #535 issue: 53, date: 2009-07.'Piks Bayancol and Kazakhstan'

• Bayancol valley. Includes information about the routes, map and route topos. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.

Tengri Tag

Tengri Tag group consists of a single ridge running from west to east between North and South Inylchek glaciers. The range is dominated by fantastic pyramid of Khan-Tengri (7010m). Besides it, Gorky Peak (6050,) in the western part of the ridge and East Shatyor (the Marquee, East, 6637m) are the other main peaks of the range.

• Mountain Info, #535 issue: 53, date: 2009-07.'Pik Parashutny'

• Khan-Tengri (7010 m) - Pobeda (7439 m) peaks region. Includes information about the routes, map and route topos. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.
• Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan. "On 15 August 2011 Sergey and Andrey Nefedov." By Planetmountain at Planet Mountain on 2008-11-18.

Eastern Kokshaal-Too

Eastern Kokshaal-Too is separated from the western part of the chain by Bedel pass (4284m). The highest and most famous peak of the range, Peak Pobeda (7439m), is located at the eastern end of the chain, just south of South Inylchek glacier. Here Kokshaal Too main ridge is some 15-20 km south of the glacier with several south-north side vranches reaching into glacier. Pik Pobeda is pretty much the only regularly climbed objective in Eastern Kokshaal-Too, although some peaks close by it have seen some ascents.

• Engilchek Tau Located between Inychek river valley and South Inylchek glacier in the north and Kaindy glacier in the south. The highest peaks of the range is Nanseana Peak (5697m).
• Kokshaal-Too main chain Kokshaal-Too main ridge runs generally west to east some distance away from South Inylchek with numerous south-north branches reaching into the glacier, not far from South Inylchek Base camp. The main peak of the area is the massive Peak Pobeda (7439m), located on the main range. On its east side, at the junction of Kokshaal-Too main ridge and south-north Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge lies Peak of Military Topographers (6873m). On the northern side branches, Pik Pogrebetskiy (6527m) is the highest peak. Pik Pobeda is pretty much the only regularly climbed climbed objective in the area.
• Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge runs generally north to south, differing from all other main ridges. Saridjaz, Tengri-Tag and Koshaal-Too all join to Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge close to the end of Inylchek glaciers. The border between Kyrgyzstan and China in the south ans Kazakhstan and China further north follows more or less the ridge. The section of the ridge between Tengri Tag (East Shatyor aka East Marquee, 6637m) and Kokshal-Too (Peak of Military Topographers, 6873m) is very high with several summits well above 6000m such as Rapasova (6801m).

• Khan-Tengri (7010 m) - Pobeda (7439 m) peaks region. Includes information about the routes, map and route topos. An absolute must. By Vladimir Kopylov at Mountains.tos.ru.

Kokshaal-Too main chain

Kokshaal-Too main ridge runs generally west to east some distance away from South Inylchek with numerous south-north branches reaching into the glacier, not far from South Inylchek Base camp. The main peak of the area is the massive Peak Pobeda (7439m), located on the main range. On its east side, at the junction of Kokshaal-Too main ridge and south-north Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge lies Peak of Military Topographers (6873m). On the northern side branches, Pik Pogrebetskiy (6527m) is the highest peak. Pik Pobeda is pretty much the only regularly climbed climbed objective in the area.

Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge

Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge runs generally north to south, differing from all other main ridges. Saridjaz, Tengri-Tag and Koshaal-Too all join to Meridionalniy Khrebit ridge close to the end of Inylchek glaciers. The border between Kyrgyzstan and China in the south ans Kazakhstan and China further north follows more or less the ridge. The section of the ridge between Tengri Tag (East Shatyor aka East Marquee, 6637m) and Kokshal-Too (Peak of Military Topographers, 6873m) is very high with several summits well above 6000m such as Rapasova (6801m).

Saridjaz

Tengri Tag

Meridional

Xuelian Group

Xuelian Massif in Chinese Tien Shan is a 15km ridge with at least six distinct summits over 6000m. It is located just across the border from Kyrgyzstan's 6995m Khan Tengri and Inylchek Glaciers. Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand's ascent of Xuelian West (6422m), via a hard technical line dubbed the Great White Jade Heist, gained them a prestigious Piolet d'Or in 2010.

• Mountain Info, #545 issue: 63, date: 2010-05.'Central Tien Shan'
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2009, isbn: 9781933056098, pp: 46-57.'Untapped potential - Exploring the Chinese Central Tien Shan' by Paul Knot & Bruce Normand.

• Xuelian Range, Sulamar (5,380m), north buttress. "North Face of Sulamar (TD+, ca. 5380m)." By Mick Fowler at American Alpine Journal on 2010.

Bodga range

Bogda range is located immediately northeast of Tien Shan range in western China. The heavily glaciated range forms the northern border of Turpan Depression, where elevation is 150m below sea level. The valleys on southern side of the range are hot, dry, very windy, and comparatively treeless, while the northern side is densely covered in forests. The highest peak of the range is Bogda Peak (or Bogda Feng, 5445m). Its close proximity to the local capital of Urumqi makes it a popular mountain for Chinese mountaineers.

• Alpine Journal, year: 1984, pp: 70-76.'Bogdo Ola Group Survey' by Shigeru Kodama.
• Alpine Journal, year: 1996, pp: 103-107.'At Heaven's Gate - Golden Oldies in the Chinese Celestials' by Mike Banks.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 1996, isbn: 9780930410643, pp: 309.'P 5445 Attempt and Ascents of Jianshier Feng, P 4348, P 4203 and P 4300' by Joss Lynam.
• American Alpine Journal, year: 2006, isbn: 9781933056012, pp: 433.'Tomurty, Far Eastern Tien Shan, First Ascent' by Isao Fukura.