The Pamir Highway in Tajikistan near the Karakul lake. Credit: Hylgeriak,  Shot on 2015-06-27 Photo taken in Tajikistan.(c) Hylgeriak, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
The Pamir Highway in Tajikistan near the Karakul lake. Credit: Hylgeriak, Shot on 2015-06-27 Photo taken in Tajikistan.(c) Hylgeriak, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

Pamir range, called the roof of the world by Persians, is located in southern Central Asia. It is mainly located mainly in Tajikistan, but the northern slopes stretch to Kyrgyzstan, its western and southern slopes stretch to Afganistan and eastern slopes to China. Some count Kongur Shan to the East of Pamir to be part as Pamir instead of it belonging to Kunlun Shan. If Kongur is considered part of Pamir, it would be the highest mountain of the range. If not, then The three highest mountains in the Pamirs core are Ismoil Somoni Peak (known from 1932–1962 as Stalin Peak, and from 1962–1998 as Communism Peak) at 7495m, Pik Lenin 7134m and Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105m) the the three highest peaks of the range.

About Pamir

Pamir is roughly rectangular in shape, they are 280 km long north to south and about 420 km from west to east. The range is naturally bordered by Kyzyl-Su and Surkhob river valleys in the north, Sarykol ridge on the border between China and Tajikistan in the east, Pamir and Pyandzh rivers in the south and Pyandzh river and Western spurs of the Darvaz and Peter the First ridges on the west. The region is sometimes referred to as the Pamir Knot, as it is the central hub of great mountain ranges. On the West Pamir borders on Hindu Kush, on the south on Karakoram and Himalaya and on the east of Pamier lies Kunlun Shan and on the North-East Tien Shan.

The Pamirs are divided in two halves by naturally occurring mountain features. Western Part of Pamir is home to high ridges and massive glaciers. Many peaks are more than 6000 meters high and three rise above 7000m. The Eastern Pamirs are a mountainous upland of Tibetan type, with broad deserted plateau 3500 to 4500m. Above these are sloping ridges, such as the Muzcol ridge, reaching heights of about 6000m.

  • Pamir-Alai Pamir-Alai lies between Tien-Shan mountains in the north and Pamir in the south, NW of Pamir. Most of the range lies in Tajikistan and lower branch of western Kyrgyztan. This strip of mountains of length 750km and width up to 150km can be divided into a several distinct areas. Best known part to climbers is Turkestan range with well-known Laylak and Karashvin valleys; both known for large and steep granite faces.
  • Trans-Alay Zaalaiski ridge (or Trans-Alai) on the border between Kyrgystan and Tajikistan form the northernmost part of Pamir. The range is dominated by Pik Lenin (7134m), a popular peak for those who're trying their first attempt of high-altitude climbing. Zaalaiski is popular among the climbers with graded routes between Russian alpine grades of 2 and 6, mostly on ice and snow. Established base camp at Achik-Tash (3700m, accessible from Osh) is popular base for the climbers. Virtually all climbers visiting the area aim for normal route of Pik Lenin.
  • Northwestern Pamir South of Zaalaisky Ridge lies Northwestern Pamir. The western part consists of four ridges running generally west to east. Two southern ridges, Vanch and Yazgulem ridges meet close to Pik Revolution forming the southern end of massive Fedchenko glacier. NE corner of the area consists of massive Akademiya Nauk range, home to massive and extensively glaciated Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, formerly Pik Kommunizma (Communism Peak, 7495m) and nearby Peak Korshenevkoy (7105m).
  • Central Western Pamir Central Western Pamir is not really a separate area as its ridges are partially the same as those making up northwestern Pamir. it includes parts of Akademiya Nauk range, Tynymas and the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky ridge (mountains of the southern group of Fedchenko glacier).
  • Southwestern Pamir Southwestern Pamir was for centuries important trade route between East and West. It was here that the nomad populations traced the route that would later be called the Silk Road. Here lie several ranges. Most important peaks of the region include Paktor Peak (6080m) in Rushans and Shakhdara range with several high peaks including two splendid pyramids of Marx Peak (6723m) and Engels Peak (6510m).
  • Eastern Pamir The Eastern Pamirs are a mountainous upland of Tibetan type, with broad flat plateau of 3500-4000 meters high and occupies the eastern part of Pamir and stretches from its north to the south, being only once separated by Muzcol ridge.

Climbing in Pamir

Different parts of Pamirs are attractive to climbers with different motivations:

  • Those who want to get high are drawn to high mountains with moderate technical difficulty. For those people Muztagh Ata, Pik Lenin, Pik Kommunizma and Pik Korshenevskoy, the latter to lesser extent, are the main goals.
  • If you are more interested in technical alpinism with less emphasis on the summit height, then Pik Engels and Pik Karl Marx are prime goals. South face of Pik Kommunizma, as well as any route on Kongur check this box as well.
  • For those keen on Yosemite style big walls (albeit bigger and in higher altitude) are best served in Lailak and Karashvin valleys of Pamiro-Alai, particularly on Ak-Su.
  • For explorative mountaineering where a lot of emphasis lays on visiting little known peaks with little to know prior information and lots of ground for new routing (and perhaps less emphasis on summit height or technical difficulty), Eastern Pamir will fit the bill.

Heavy snowfall and large glaciers accompany the high peaks in the Pamirs, and narrow glacier-fed lakes nestle in many of the valleys. Generally, however, the range below snowline receives minimal precipitation, and desert conditions prevail. The snow line rises from 3860m in the west to 5240m in the east. The optimal period for climbing in this region is July-August.

Arranging logistics to Tajikistan Pamirs is not too straight forward. Depending on area of interest and current political situation, Tashkent, Dushanbe or Bishkek is the airport city from where to start the journey for peaks in Tajikistan. Practically all access involve helicopter ride. For most visiting climbers involving local service provider at least for logistics is probably as good as mandatory. Logistics it not helped by unstable political situation. To add insult to the injury safety concerns are not without foundation. Chinese part of Pamir is probably easier in terms of general logistics as well as generally safer. To visit these areas, Kashgar is the main starting point.

Normal routes on the highest peaks are popular and commercial parties operate regularly on all of them, thus information about the routes is easy enough to come by. The same applies to relatively recent very difficult routes which are covered by Alpinist, Alpine Journals etc. Information about older routes and those falling in between the two aforementioned groups is significantly harder to get by. Russians probably have that information somewhere, but the only English guidebook I am aware of is by Kopylov which covers such an area, that it obviously can't go too much into detail in regards of specific area.

One aspect to note when searching for information about the Pamirs is that in addition to regular naming issues (several languages, no fixed translitteration to English), there are issues of more political kind. Namely several of the peaks have been renamed, few several times. In some cases the new official name has not really stuck.

Lot of older routes are named after first ascent party leader. During the soviet era ascent parties were large teams operating under formal leadership of team leader and often only team leader is named. Therefore even if the first ascent party lists only one name, it does typically not mean a solo ascent.

  • craig, Robert w.: Storm & Sorrow in the High Pamirs, Revised edition. Isbn: 9780671251543. Simon & Schuster, 1980.
  • Kopylov, Vladimir & Sicouri, Paola Pozzolini: Forbidden Mountains - The Most Beautiful Mountains in Russia and Central Asia. Isbn: 978-1-871890-88-4. Indutech, 1994.
  • Maier, Frith: Trekking in Russia and Central Asia - A Traveler's Guide. Isbn: 0898863554. Mountaineers Books, 1994.
  • Child, Greg: Over the Edge - The True Story of Four American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia, 1st edition. Isbn: 9780375506093. Villard, 2002.
  • Pamir-Trans Altai Mountains Map and Guide: Central Asia/Tajikistan. 906227-58-5. EWP and West Col Productions, 1995
  • Fann Mountains Map and Guide (Tadjikistan). 0-906227-56-9. EWP and GB, 1994
  • Map of Kyrgyzstan. At Footprint Adventures.
  • Maps of Central Asia. For Pamir, see Tajikistan, Pamir, Pamir-Alaj and Kyrgystan.

Pamir-Alai

Pamir-Alai lies between Tien-Shan mountains in the north and Pamir in the south, NW of Pamir. Most of the range lies in Tajikistan and lower branch of western Kyrgyztan. This strip of mountains of length 750km and width up to 150km can be divided into a several distinct areas. Best known part to climbers is Turkestan range with well-known Laylak and Karashvin valleys; both known for large and steep granite faces.

  • Fann Mountains Western part of the range is Fann Mountains (Fansky mountains), located in Western Tadjikistan just in 80km from ancient Samarkand. There are 11 summits above 5000m, the highest of them being Chimtarga (5480m). Other prominent peaks of the range include Chapdara (5050m), Zamok (5070m) and Bokhona (5138m). The area has alpine-style rock routes, largely of medium grades and benefits from warm and stable weather. That being said, particularly Chapdara NW face and Bodkhona West face are both massive faces with high technical difficulties.
  • Turkestan range East of Fann mountains, between Fergana and Zeravshan valleys, lies Turkestan range with well-known Laylak and Karashvin valleys. The range runs generally from west to East with several side ridges. There are several peaks above 5000m high, the highest being Piramidalniy (5509m) at the head of Karavshin valley. The area is best known for large and steep granite faces and is definitely the most visited area of Pamiro-Alai by climbers. The main climbing destinations of the area are the valley systems heading south from Lailak and Karavshin villages. To make matters confusing enough, both Lailak valley system as well as Karavshin valley system has Ak-Su and Kara-Su rivers. The most famous peak in Pamir-Alai is Ak-Su (5355m) in Laylak Valley, which has lots of extremely difficult routes on its north face.
  • Zeravshanski range In the heart of Pamir-Alai, on a joint of Turkestanski, Alaiski and Zeravshanski ranges lie Matcha. It is home to huge Zeravshanskiy glacier and the highest peak of Pamir-Alai, Skalisty (Rocky) peak (5621m).
  • Alaiski range Aka Alaiyskiy. In the eastern part of the range, between Pamir and sunny Fergana valley, lies Alaiski range with more than 30 summits above 5000m.
  • Forbidden Mountains pp.75-82

Fann Mountains

Western part of the range is Fann Mountains (Fansky mountains), located in Western Tadjikistan just in 80km from ancient Samarkand. There are 11 summits above 5000m, the highest of them being Chimtarga (5480m). Other prominent peaks of the range include Chapdara (5050m), Zamok (5070m) and Bokhona (5138m). The area has alpine-style rock routes, largely of medium grades and benefits from warm and stable weather. That being said, particularly Chapdara NW face and Bodkhona West face are both massive faces with high technical difficulties.

Gora Chimtarga39.197868.19565489
1936-01-01
Gora Chimtarga, ,
First ascent
Military topographers headed by Sibirtsev
Bodkhona5138
West face
Moshnikov. Rus 6A; 1100m.
  • The Big Walls pp.111
Chapdara5050
  • The Big Walls pp.111

Turkestan range

East of Fann mountains, between Fergana and Zeravshan valleys, lies Turkestan range with well-known Laylak and Karashvin valleys. The range runs generally from west to East with several side ridges. There are several peaks above 5000m high, the highest being Piramidalniy (5509m) at the head of Karavshin valley. The area is best known for large and steep granite faces and is definitely the most visited area of Pamiro-Alai by climbers. The main climbing destinations of the area are the valley systems heading south from Lailak and Karavshin villages. To make matters confusing enough, both Lailak valley system as well as Karavshin valley system has Ak-Su and Kara-Su rivers. The most famous peak in Pamir-Alai is Ak-Su (5355m) in Laylak Valley, which has lots of extremely difficult routes on its north face.

Lailak valley

Lailak valley system is the western of the two main valleys south of Lailak village. The upper valley is divided in two by the ridge system with Iskander Peajs. The western valley is Kara-Su valley and the eastern Ak-su valley. The undeniable king here is Ak-Su. Other main goals include peaks of Iskander group and Peak Alexander Block (5239).

Karashvin valley

The highest peak of Turkestan range, Piramidalniy (5509m) is located at the head of Karavshin valley. The other main climbing destinations of the valley are not among the highest, Asan (4230m), Slesova Peak (42490m) and 4810m Peak. What they lack in height they make up for appearance and steepness as each one of them sports at least one extremely steep face.

Zeravshanski range

In the heart of Pamir-Alai, on a joint of Turkestanski, Alaiski and Zeravshanski ranges lie Matcha. It is home to huge Zeravshanskiy glacier and the highest peak of Pamir-Alai, Skalisty (Rocky) peak (5621m).

Alaiski range

Aka Alaiyskiy. In the eastern part of the range, between Pamir and sunny Fergana valley, lies Alaiski range with more than 30 summits above 5000m.

Trans-Alay

Zaalaiski ridge (or Trans-Alai) on the border between Kyrgystan and Tajikistan form the northernmost part of Pamir. The range is dominated by Pik Lenin (7134m), a popular peak for those who're trying their first attempt of high-altitude climbing. Zaalaiski is popular among the climbers with graded routes between Russian alpine grades of 2 and 6, mostly on ice and snow. Established base camp at Achik-Tash (3700m, accessible from Osh) is popular base for the climbers. Virtually all climbers visiting the area aim for normal route of Pik Lenin.

Busiest campsite in Trans-Alay is Achik-Tash camp (3700m), located to the north of Pik Lenin. It is accessible from the city of Osh. From Osh, it takes 8-10h. Alternatively, it can be reached by helicopter in half an hour from Osh or 2,5 hours from Tashkent.

Zaalaiski ridge

Zaalaiski West

Pik Leipzig39.34872.4775725
1989-08-09
Pik Leipzig, ,
First ascent
Ralf Brummer, Siegfried Wittig, Erhard Klingner, Wolfgang Hempel
Dzerzhinski (Lagarsed)39.344272.78086717
1936-01-01
Dzerzhinski, ,
First ascent
E. Beletski
Pik Petrovski (Peak Petrowski)39.45846372.884034845
Located very close to Achik Tash and Onion Field camps of Peak Lenin. Mostly climbed as a means of acclimatization for Peak Lenin.
North side
East German Route (North Face). Ice, D/Rus 4B; 45°; 1150m.
Ice route. Propable the easiest route on the north face. Avoids steep rock band below ice by going up small Ilpik glacier on the extreme right. The route joins West Ridge on broad shoulder at 4700m and follows the ridge to the summit.
NE Ridge. II PD-; 1207m.
Normal route. The easiest route. Ascends eastern slopes to NE ridge. Then follows the gently angled ridge, at first on loose rock, higher up on snow.

Pik Lenin

Razdelnaya (Lenina West)39.362172.82766148
1937-01-01
Razdelnaya, ,
First ascent
E. Beletski
Qullai Istiqlol (Pik Lenin, Lenina)39.34333333372.87757134
Peak Lenin is located in the middle of Zaalaiyskiy group in the northernmost part of Pamir, on the border between Tadjikistan and Kyrghystan. Both north and south faces are around 45-50° steep. There are sixteen routes on the slopes of Lenin Peak, seven on the northern side and nine on the southern one. Most frequently climbed routes start at Pamir base camp of Achik-Tash (3700m) on the north side. Infact, almost everyone climbing Lenin does so on its normal route as most of other routes are very serious due to avalanche and/or ice fall danger and peak does not have tall and excessively steep features which would attract those in search of extreme technical difficulties.
1934-01-01
Qullai Istiqlol, Chernukha Route,
First ascent
Chernukha Route: Chernukha, V. Abalakov, I. Lukin
1934-09-28
Qullai Istiqlol, Allwein, Wien & Schneider route,
First ascent
Allwein, Wien & Schneider route: E. Allvein, K. Wien & E. Schneider
1950-01-01
Qullai Istiqlol, Lipkin Rocks Route,
First ascent
Lipkin Rocks Route: V. Ratsek
1954-01-01
Qullai Istiqlol, via Razdelnaya,
First ascent
via Razdelnaya: V. Kovalev
1960-01-01
Qullai Istiqlol, North Face Classic,
First ascent
North Face Classic: Ia. Arkin
1960-01-01
Qullai Istiqlol, Krylenko pass from the North,
First ascent
Krylenko pass from the North: Cheredova
1967-01-01
Qullai Istiqlol, Skurlatov Route,
First ascent
Skurlatov Route: U. Skurlatov
  • Forbidden Mountains pp.84-85
  • Maier pp.190-192
North face
Most visited aspect of Peak Lenin and entire Tajikistan Pamir. Wide face framed with NE ridge leading to East ridge and NW ridge leading to West ridge at Pik Razdalnaya (6148m). Almost solely climbed along "via Razdelnaya" as all other routes are more exposed to avalanche and/or ice fall danger. Which is not to say that the same danger could be overlooked in the case of "via Razdelnaya". A point that was driven home in 1990-07-17 when avalanche swiped the entire camp and killed 40 climbers staying in it. The route line has since been adjusted somewhat to try to avoid the exposed sections.
Lipkin Rocks Route. Rus 5A/PD+/AD; III. 1950-01-01First ascentV. Ratsek, 1950.
From Lenin Glacier (4200m) along rocky spur to around 200m, from where a traverse on the snow ramp to NE ridge, which is gained at around 5800m. From there along the ridge to east ridge (6500m) and along it to the summit. Avalanche danger.
Chernukha Route. Rus 5A. 1934-01-01First ascentChernukha, V. Abalakov, I. Lukin, 1934.
Huge shortcut to Lipkin Rocks Route. To camp on Lenin Glacier (4200m, same as on normal route). It is not advisable to camp below north face because of avalanche risk. From the glacier along rocky spur to east ridge and further to summit. Avalanche and rock fall danger.
North Face Classic. Snow/ice, Rus 5A/D; 3450m. 1960-01-01First ascentIa. Arkin, 1960.
From Lenin Glacier (4200m) up the north face. Avalanche danger.
North Face Direct. Snow/ice, Rus 5B/TD/ED-; VI-.
Avalanche and serac danger, greatest technical difficulties high up.
via Razdelnaya. Snow/ice, Rus 5A/IV PD-; IV/AI1/45-50°; 3450m. 1954-01-01First ascentV. Kovalev, 1954.
Normal route. Along NW ridge to Peak Razdelnaya (6148m), from there along west ridge to summit. Crevasses, avalanches and variable weather may be problematic. Usually climbed with camps at 4200m (Glacier Lenin, 4-8h), 5200m (6-8h) and 6100m (5-8h). Summit day about 12-14h roundtrip (some climbers choose to camp at 6400m). Descent normally two days.
NE face
NE face is separated from north face by NE ridge, which joins East ridge somewhat above Krylenko pass (5820m), which is located between Pik Lenin in the east and Pik Spartak (6182m) in the west. The pass can be gained also from the south side (Allwein, Wien & Schneider route).
Krylenko pass from the North. Rus 5B/AD+. 1960-01-01First ascentCheredova, 1960.
Steep ice in crevassed and serac-endangered terrain to achieve Krylenko pass. To top it off, serious avalanche danger. From Krylenko Pass (5820m) along East Ridge to summit.
Skurlatov Route. Rus 5A. 1967-01-01First ascentU. Skurlatov, 1967.
NE Ridge to East Ridge along it to the summit.
South side
Allwein, Wien & Schneider route. Rus 5A/PD/PD+. 1934-09-28First ascentE. Allvein, K. Wien & E. Schneider, 1934-09-28.
From southern side via Bolshoi Saukdava glacier to Krylenko Pass (5820m) and along East Ridge to the summit. The easiest route to the summit, but nowadays seldom used because of the problems of reaching the base of the climb.
Marshal Zukov (50 years anniversary of Soviet State, Marshal Zhukov)39.317572.8833333336842
1958-09-08
Marshal Zukov, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Marshal Zukov South (Aviastroitelei)39.295572.89336335
1967-01-01
Marshal Zukov South, ,
First ascent
A

19th Party Conference

Pik Mir (Pik Myra I)39.43344172.9898034940
Located very close to Achik Tash and Onion Field camps of Peak Lenin. Mostly climbed as a two day acclimatization climb for Peak Lenin.
SW side
Traverse (normal route).
Follows SW Ridge to SW Peak, then descent to col between SW and main summit (camp). From the Col traverse to main summit and descent along North Ridge.
Peak "19th Party Conference" (Peak "Nineteenth Party Conference", Peak 19)39.384572.96675882
North side
Abalakov Ridge. Rus 4A; 2200m. 1930-01-01First ascentV. Abalakov, 1930.
Normal route. Technically easiest route. Follows the long S-shaped ridge. Approach from Onion Field takes 4-7,5h (possible camp). The most difficult part is gaining the ridge, either at the extreme end of the ridge (steep scree, up to 50°) or via snow/ice couloir (55°) near the eastern termination. Camp on the ridge at 4900m, from where roundtrip via false summit (5827m) to true summit (5882m) (usually necessary to spend another night in the camp).
John Gary Ullin Memorial (North Wall Direct). Rus 5A/B.
Very serious.
Spartak39.370772.93956183
1960-01-01
Spartak, ,
First ascent
V. Abalakov

Barrikady range

Estonia39.357472.98456202
1960-01-01
Estonia, ,
First ascent
P. Varep
Latvia (Sovetskaya Latvija)39.362773.00666213
1960-01-01
Latvia, ,
First ascent
E. Imants
Kyzylagyn39.348073.04416683
1956-01-01
Kyzylagyn, ,
First ascent
V. Elchibekov

Zulumartski group

Edinstva (Yedintsva)39.345072.95866673
1955-01-01
Edinstva, ,
First ascent
E. Beletski
Pik Oktobrskyi (Octjabrski)39.329172.97006780
1955-08-15
Pik Oktobrskyi, ,
First ascent
E. Beletski
61466146
1958-01-01
6146, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
6248 (Sovetskaja Gruziya)6248
1955-01-01
6248, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin

Beletskiy group

Korzhenevskiy West (VMF)39.372073.10295875
1957-01-01
Korzhenevskiy West, ,
First ascent
P. Zak
Korzhenevskiy (Korzhenevskovo)39.369673.12296088
1951-01-01
Korzhenevskiy, ,
First ascent
V. Nozdrjukhin
Beletski (Pik Beleckovo)39.357773.14616075
1957-01-01
Beletski, ,
First ascent
P. Zak
Beletski East (Simanovich)39.352573.15786040
1957-01-01
Beletski East, ,
First ascent
P. Zak

Krasnoyarsk group

Krasnoyarsk (Poronin)39.311873.05056205
1978-01-01
Krasnoyarsk, ,
First ascent
V. Svetlakov
Trapetsia6048
1934-01-01
Trapetsia, ,
First ascent
E. Allwein

Chon-Alaisky

TurkVO39.467773.49336240
1956-01-01
TurkVO, ,
First ascent
E. Nagel
Pik Chorku (P.6283)39.467473.52246283
2000-08-01
Pik Chorku, ,
First ascent
Leonid Fishkis, Aleksandr Novik, Daniil Popov & Natalya Zotova via north ridge-north face
Gora Kurumdy39.455573.56806610
1932-01-01
Gora Kurumdy, ,
First ascent
Eyveniy Timashev from south
Kurumdy East39.459373.60146384
2008-08-02
Kurumdy East, ,
First ascent
Jan Dolezal & Tomas Ehler
Zarya Vostoka (Eastern Sunrise Peak)39.468973.65436349
2000-08-01
Zarya Vostoka, ,
First ascent
Leonid Fishkis, Aleksandr Novik, Daniil Popov & Natalya Zotova via north ridge-north face

Trans-Alay group

61076107
1960-01-01
6107, ,
First ascent
V. Abalakov
Krasnoyarskikh rabochikh (Warsawa)6042
1978-01-01
Krasnoyarskikh rabochikh, ,
First ascent
V. Kokorev
Markansu (Krylenko)6010
1956-01-01
Markansu, ,
First ascent
V. Naryshkin

Northwestern Pamir

South of Zaalaisky Ridge lies Northwestern Pamir. The western part consists of four ridges running generally west to east. Two southern ridges, Vanch and Yazgulem ridges meet close to Pik Revolution forming the southern end of massive Fedchenko glacier. NE corner of the area consists of massive Akademiya Nauk range, home to massive and extensively glaciated Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, formerly Pik Kommunizma (Communism Peak, 7495m) and nearby Peak Korshenevkoy (7105m).

  • Peter I range Peter I range is a ridge running generally from west to east, its eastern end joining Akademiya Nauk range by Pik Kommunizma. The entire ridge is consistently high with no low passes. Norther aspect of the range is possible from Fortambek glacier camp from where peaks on the western part of Akademiya Nauk are also possible. Main peak of the range is Peak Moscow (Pik Moskva, 6785m).
  • Darvaz ridge North-Western corner of Pamir proper. Located to the north of Vanch valley and (South)West of Akademiya Nauk range. The highest peak of thew range is Peak Arnavad (6083m).
  • Vanch range
  • Yazgulem range Yazgulem ridge of Central Western Pamir borders on Northwestern Pamir. The main peak of Yazgulem ridge is Peak Revolution (Pik Revolutsii, 6974m).
  • Akademiya Nauk range Akademiya Nauk range is huge ice massif located in the North-West Pamir approximately 380km northwest of the Karakoram in the Republic of Tajikistan. The range has two 7000m colosses, home to massive and extensively glaciated Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, formerly Pik Kommunizma (Communism Peak, 7495m) and nearby Peak Korshenevkoy (7105m).

Peter I range

Peter I range is a ridge running generally from west to east, its eastern end joining Akademiya Nauk range by Pik Kommunizma. The entire ridge is consistently high with no low passes. Norther aspect of the range is possible from Fortambek glacier camp from where peaks on the western part of Akademiya Nauk are also possible. Main peak of the range is Peak Moscow (Pik Moskva, 6785m).

Moskva group

Oshanin West 2 (XXV Party Congress)38.988471.78866175
1976-01-01
Oshanin West 2, ,
First ascent
D. Dangadze
Oshanin West (Rodionov)38.989771.79556181
1975-01-01
Oshanin West, ,
First ascent
L. Lozovski
Oshanin (Varvara Yakovleva)38.982771.80186389
1975-01-01
Oshanin, ,
First ascent
L. Lozovski
Oshanin East38.979271.80516305
1975-01-01
Oshanin East, ,
First ascent
L. Lozovski
Pik Moskva West6725
1956-01-01
Pik Moskva West, ,
First ascent
D. Oboladze
Pik Moskva (Pik Moscow, Sidov)38.94666666771.8358333336785
NE side is accessible from glacier Fortambek (which in turn is accessible from Popular Miskvina base camp of Peak Kommunizma amd Pik Koshenevskaya). However, most of the routes on Pik Moskva are from the south side (Gando glacier).
1959-08-20
Pik Moskva, ,
First ascent
I. Bogachev
1977-01-01
Pik Moskva, Cherevko,
First ascent
Cherevko: Cherevko
NE face
Cherevko. Rus 5B. 1977-01-01First ascentCherevko, 1977.
Pik Moskva SE (Soyuz-Appolon)6046
1975-01-01
Pik Moskva SE, ,
First ascent
Sh. Mirianashvili

Leningrad group

Abalakov E. (Enukidze)38.930771.88216446
1959-01-01
Abalakov E., ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Leningrad (Zinaida Kryienko)38.932071.90526507
1972-01-01
Leningrad, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Kuibyshev38.945571.97546189
1957-01-01
Kuibyshev, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Pik Kirov (Kaganovich, Pik Kirova)38.968071.96306372
1970-01-01
Pik Kirov, ,
First ascent
V. Rusanov
30 Years of Soviet State West (Panoramny)6000
1947-01-01
30 Years of Soviet State West, ,
First ascent
A. Sidorenko
30 Years of Soviet State (Sulimov)6447
1947-01-01
30 Years of Soviet State, ,
First ascent
E. Abalakov

Darvaz ridge

North-Western corner of Pamir proper. Located to the north of Vanch valley and (South)West of Akademiya Nauk range. The highest peak of thew range is Peak Arnavad (6083m).

Qullai Arnavad (Peak Arnavad)38.563371.53205992
1946-01-01
Qullai Arnavad, ,
First ascent
O. Kapitanov
Garmo (Darvaz, Kaganovich)38.872.0666676602
1948-01-01
Garmo, ,
First ascent
A. Bagrov
Rudaki6203
1957-01-01
Rudaki, ,
First ascent
D. Medzmariashvili

Akademiya Nauk range

Akademiya Nauk range is huge ice massif located in the North-West Pamir approximately 380km northwest of the Karakoram in the Republic of Tajikistan. The range has two 7000m colosses, home to massive and extensively glaciated Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, formerly Pik Kommunizma (Communism Peak, 7495m) and nearby Peak Korshenevkoy (7105m).

Moskvina base camp (3680m) on Walter glacier is the main base for climbing in Akademiya Nauk range.

Kommunizma group

Pik Patriot (Tron Petra Velikogo)38.889572.00546445
1950-01-01
Pik Patriot, ,
First ascent
B. Garf
Pik Rossija (Pik Russia, Rossii)38.89583333372.0291666676875
1955-08-17
Pik Rossija, ,
First ascent
M. Gvarliani
1955-08-17
Pik Rossija, West face,
First ascent
West face: M. Gvarliani
1972-01-01
Pik Rossija, SE rib,
First ascent
SE rib: O. Abalakov
SE side
SE rib. Rus 5B. 1972-01-01First ascentO. Abalakov, 1972.
West face
West face. 1955-08-17First ascentM. Gvarliani, 1955-08-17.
Pik Pravda (Pravda Peak)38.915372.02416372
1955-01-01
Pik Pravda, ,
First ascent
M. Gvarliani
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani (Qullai Ismoili Somoni, Pik Samani)38.94333333372.0166666677495
Located at the junction of Peter the First and the Academy of Sciences Ridges. On Peak Communism, the rock is poor and the approach is difficult, but because it is the highest of all peaks in the region, climbers have been active on the mountain for decades, and a variety of routes exist to the summit.
1933-09-03
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, East spur,
First ascent
East spur: Evgeny Abalakov
1955-01-01
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: I. Kakhiani
1959-01-01
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, SW Spur,
First ascent
SW Spur: K. Kuzmin
1968-01-01
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, Borodkin Spur,
First ascent
Borodkin Spur: J. Barodkin
1968-01-01
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, Myslovsksy,
First ascent
Myslovsksy: Myslovsksy
1968-01-01
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, Burevestnik Rib,
First ascent
Burevestnik Rib: V. Maksimov
1980-01-01
Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, The Terrible,
First ascent
The Terrible: K. Valiev
North side
Borodkin Spur (North Ridge). Rus 5B/V PD+; 55°; 3800m. 1968-01-01First ascentJ. Barodkin, 1968.
Normal route. North side normal route. The route follows north ridge via Dushanbe Peak (6956m). Usually climbed with camps at 5300m (8h), 6200m (9h) and 6900m (8h). Summit day 9h (ascent only).
  • World Mountaineering #1
East side
East spur. 1933-09-03First ascentEvgeny Abalakov, 1933-09-03.
South face
South face, that rises 2000m from Beliava glacier, is home to most difficult routes. It has a 600-800m high rock wall known as Pusa (Paunch) with average inclination 80-85°.
SW Spur. Rus 5B. 1959-01-01First ascentK. Kuzmin, 1959.
Prominent rocky spur on the left side of the face leading to West shoulder.
The Terrible. Rus 6B. 1980-01-01First ascentK. Valiev, 1980.
  • World Mountaineering #4
Myslovsksy. Rus 6B; 2900m. 1968-01-01First ascentMyslovsksy, 1968.
  • The Big Walls pp.118
South ridge. Rus 5B. 1955-01-01First ascentI. Kakhiani, 1955.
Via col between Peak Communism and Pik Pravda (6400m, to the south).
West face
West face has huge glacier shelf known as Big Pamir Plateau at around 6000m altitude. There are other routes on the face that join Burevestnik at various points: Chastkevich (1980, 5B) climbs directly to Camp 3 while Getman (1971, 5B) joins it at the top of Burevestnik rib.
Burevestnik Rib (Maksimov Route, West Ridge). Rus 5A; 40-45°; 3900m. 1968-01-01First ascentV. Maksimov, 1968.
Normal route. Technically easiest route. From the base camp on Fortambek glacier via rocky spur (Burevestnik rib camps at the foot of the rib 5200m) to high glacier plateau (camps at the top of Burevestnik rib at 5800m, 8h from base camp as well as at the foot of Dushanbe peak (6100m, 4-6h). From there the route climbs Dushanbe peak (6956m) with the last high camp placed close to its top.
Bolshoi Barier (Bolshoi Barier)7001
1957-01-01
Bolshoi Barier, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Pik Izvestia West (Pionerskaja Pravda)6603
1961-01-01
Pik Izvestia West, ,
First ascent
O. Bragin
Pik Izvestia38.97333333372.056841
1964-08-12
Pik Izvestia, ,
First ascent
V. Elchibekov
Zetkin38.984172.05816641
1968-01-01
Zetkin, ,
First ascent
V. Bozhukov
Akhmadi Donish (Voroshilov)38.995272.09236645
1959-01-01
Akhmadi Donish, ,
First ascent
V. Abalakov
Kalinin39.010372.10966509
1972-01-01
Kalinin, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Ordzhonikidze38.957972.09166365
1937-01-01
Ordzhonikidze, ,
First ascent
O. Aristov
Revvoensovet (RKKA, Krasnoi Armii)38.984572.15806265
1961-01-01
Revvoensovet, ,
First ascent
E. Tamm

Korzhenevskoy

Pik Yevgenii Korzhenevskoy West6782
1937-01-01
Pik Yevgenii Korzhenevskoy West, ,
First ascent
D. Guschin
Pik Yevgenii Korzhenevskoy (Pik Korzhenevskoy, Pik Korshenevskaja)39.057572.017105
There are several difficult routes on the West Face.
1957-08-23
Pik Yevgenii Korzhenevskoy, North ridge,
First ascent
North ridge: A. Ugarov
1964-01-01
Pik Yevgenii Korzhenevskoy, Tsetkin,
First ascent
Tsetkin: V. Tsetkin
  • Forbidden Mountains pp.87-88
North side
North ridge (NW ridge). 1957-08-23First ascentA. Ugarov, 1957-08-23.
South side
Tsetkin (Southern Crest). PD+/Rus 5A; class 4-5; 3400m. 1964-01-01First ascentV. Tsetkin, 1964.
Normal route. The route starts at Mokvina base camp (3680m) with usually three high camps at 5200m or 5300m, 5800m or 6100m and 6400m or 6700 meters.
Chetyriokh (Chetyiekh)39.023472.05996230
1933-01-01
Chetyriokh, ,
First ascent
1933
from Moskvina base camp. V AD/Rus 4A; 50°; 1893m.

Akademiya Nauk North

Pik Karpinski (Komintern, Academician Komarov)39.05666772.1391676612
1966-01-01
Pik Karpinski, ,
First ascent
A. Borovikov
Gore Muzdzhilga (Gou)39.119872.19176289
1955-01-01
Gore Muzdzhilga, ,
First ascent
V. Abalakov
Sandal39.119972.19176072
1955-01-01
Sandal, ,
First ascent
V. Kizel

Fedchenko

OGPU38.861572.10596028
1966-01-01
OGPU, ,
First ascent
A. Kustovski
Kommunisticheskaja Akademia38.834072.12766419
1965-01-01
Kommunisticheskaja Akademia, ,
First ascent
A. Pjankov
Kommunisticheskaja Akademia South38.830072.13196370
1965-01-01
Kommunisticheskaja Akademia South, ,
First ascent
A. . Pjankov

Northern Tanymas

Gorbunov (Mekhnat)38.831572.29356028
1965-01-01
Gorbunov, ,
First ascent
G. Votrin
Khokhlov6595
1968-01-01
Khokhlov, ,
First ascent
V. Borodkin
64576457
1981-01-01
6457, ,
First ascent
V. Kovtun
Vasilevski6325
1974-01-01
Vasilevski, ,
First ascent
V. Pushkarev
Yakir6232
1966-01-01
Yakir, ,
First ascent
I. Korkin
Boryschiysa Vietnam (Tupolev)6179
1975-01-01
Boryschiysa Vietnam, ,
First ascent
G. Kaspirovich
Dnepropetrovsk (Rudzutan)6130
1975-01-01
Dnepropetrovsk, ,
First ascent
V. Shabokhin
Vooruzhennykh Sil6098
1972-01-01
Vooruzhennykh Sil, ,
First ascent
VNekrasov
Saint-Exupéry6063
1976-01-01
Saint-Exupéry, ,
First ascent
K. Veselov

Central Western Pamir

Central Western Pamir is not really a separate area as its ridges are partially the same as those making up northwestern Pamir. it includes parts of Akademiya Nauk range, Tynymas and the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky ridge (mountains of the southern group of Fedchenko glacier).

Independence Peak (formerly Peak Revolution/Pik Revolutsii, 6974m), located on Yazgulem ridge, is the dominating peak of the area. The region around the head of the Fedchenko Glacier has only ever been infrequently visited but is reputed to get better weather than the somewhat higher and significantly better known mountains further north.

Yazgulem range

Yazgulem ridge of Central Western Pamir borders on Northwestern Pamir. The main peak of Yazgulem ridge is Peak Revolution (Pik Revolutsii, 6974m).

Vysoka Stena

Fikker West (Soviet Cosmonauts)38.583272.36826150
1962-01-01
Fikker West, ,
First ascent
A. Shukurov
Fikker (Fikkera, Meteor)38.567972.38336718
1959-01-01
Fikker, ,
First ascent
V. Nozdrjukhin
Omar Khayam West 2 (Molodykh Vysotnikov)5798
1968-01-01
Omar Khayam West 2, ,
First ascent
Y. Oparin
Omar Khayam West 1 (Dokuchaev)6025
1960-01-01
Omar Khayam West 1, ,
First ascent
V. Serebvriakov
Omar Khayam6315
1960-01-01
Omar Khayam, ,
First ascent
O. Bragin
Muzkulak (Parrot)6277
1982-01-01
Muzkulak, ,
First ascent
A. Lykhmus

Revolutsii group

Parizhskaja kommuna (Paris-Kommune)38.504472.26126354
1957-01-01
Parizhskaja kommuna, ,
First ascent
V. Benkin
Parizhskaja kommuna East (Amosov, Marichka)6002
1964-01-01
Parizhskaja kommuna East, ,
First ascent
V. Ryazanov
Pik 26 Baku-Komissarov North (Peredovoi)6050
1960-01-01
Pik 26 Baku-Komissarov North, ,
First ascent
Y. Dobrynin
Pik 26 Baku-Komissarov38.50572.3216666676834
1928-08-31
Pik 26 Baku-Komissarov, ,
First ascent
E. Allwein; E. Tamm via NW Col.
Pik Abu Ali Ibn Sino (Independence Peak, Pik Revolution)38.5172.3556974
1954-08-17
Pik Abu Ali Ibn Sino, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: A. Ugarov
1962-01-01
Pik Abu Ali Ibn Sino, NW wall,
First ascent
NW wall: Myshlyayev and party
1980-01-01
Pik Abu Ali Ibn Sino, Kondakov,
First ascent
Kondakov: E. Kondakov
  • Forbidden Mountains pp.92-94
East side
NE ridge. Glacier/snow, Rus 5A. 1954-08-17First ascentA. Ugarov, 1954-08-17.
NW face
The face rises steeply at the end of 72km long Fedchenko glacier. The ascent of NW wall in 1962 was the first major face climb in Pamirs, the previous ascents had all followed more or less along the ridge lines.
NW wall. Rus 5B; 2000m. 1962-01-01First ascentMyshlyayev and party, 1962.
Kondakov. Rus 5B. 1980-01-01First ascentE. Kondakov, 1980.
Revolutsii Central38.501172.35816900
1960-01-01
Revolutsii Central, ,
First ascent
S. Sawon
Revolutsii South38.501172.36936850
1960-01-01
Revolutsii South, ,
First ascent
S. Sawon
Revolutsii 2nd South (Tymannyi)38.494572.37116596
1960-01-01
Revolutsii 2nd South, ,
First ascent
S. Sawon
Revolutsii NE (Khimik)38.518572.37546500
1954-01-01
Revolutsii NE, ,
First ascent
E. Schneider
Shipka38.475172.35126254
1968-01-01
Shipka, ,
First ascent
N. Kharechko
1968-01-01
Shipka, Kharchenko,
First ascent
Kharchenko: N. Kharchenko
1980-01-01
Shipka, South Crest,
First ascent
South Crest: V. Gorodetskiy
South Crest. Rus 4B. 1980-01-01First ascentV. Gorodetskiy, 1980.
Kharchenko. Rus 3B. 1968-01-01First ascentN. Kharchenko, 1968.
Sovetskih alpinistov (Czechoslovatsko Sovetskoi druzhby, Tumanniy)38.490972.39856403
1954-01-01
Sovetskih alpinistov, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov38.511872.41126045
1952-01-01
Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Grin North (Paustovski)6150
1968-01-01
Grin North, ,
First ascent
M. Levin
Grin (Grin's Peak)6525
1960-01-01
Grin, ,
First ascent
V. Serebriakov
Krylenko N. (Dorofeev)6419
1960-01-01
Krylenko N., ,
First ascent
V. Zetlin
Krylenko N, West (Vasiljev D.)6100
1967-01-01
Krylenko N, West, ,
First ascent
G. Yazovskikh
Chalsol (Tartusski Universitet)6350
1982-01-01
Chalsol, ,
First ascent
K. Muru
Al-Biruni (Korolev)6236
1968-01-01
Al-Biruni, ,
First ascent
A. Vakhmenin
Shvemik6134
1952-01-01
Shvemik, ,
First ascent
K. Kuzmin
Qullai Vudor6132
1976-01-01
Qullai Vudor, ,
First ascent
V. Lavrukhin
Qullai Vudor South (Snezhnyi)6124
1976-01-01
Qullai Vudor South, ,
First ascent
VLavrukhin
MGG (Titov)6113
1962-01-01
MGG, ,
First ascent
A. Shukurov
Pasor (Tallin)6047
1980-01-01
Pasor, ,
First ascent
A. Pugachev
Pasor East (Manoilov)5870
1980-01-01
Pasor East, ,
First ascent
V. Solonnikov

Southwestern Pamir

Southwestern Pamir was for centuries important trade route between East and West. It was here that the nomad populations traced the route that would later be called the Silk Road. Here lie several ranges. Most important peaks of the region include Paktor Peak (6080m) in Rushans and Shakhdara range with several high peaks including two splendid pyramids of Marx Peak (6723m) and Engels Peak (6510m).

  • Rushan
  • Shugnansky
  • Ishkashims
  • Shakhdara Shakhdara, located immediately north of Wakhan Corridor (Afghanistan) and separated from Hindu Kush (located further to south) by Pandzh river valley, is the highest part of southwestern Pamir. The area has several peaks higher than 6000m, culminating at splendid pyramids of splendid pyramids of Marx Peak (6723m) and Engels Peak (formerly the Queen's Peak, 6510m). Both were popular destinations during the Soviet era and as a result, several high caliber routes exist on both peaks.
  • South-Alichursky

Rushan

Pik Pakthor (Paktor Peak)37.889272.18926080
1946-01-01
Pik Pakthor, ,
First ascent
E. Abalakov

Ishkashims

Pik Mayakovski (Mayakovskiy Peak)37.166771.66676096
1947-01-01
Pik Mayakovski, ,
First ascent
V. Budanov
Qullai Khirskhanol (Berga)37.020571.71546094
1947-01-01
Qullai Khirskhanol, ,
First ascent
E. Kazakova

Shakhdara

Shakhdara, located immediately north of Wakhan Corridor (Afghanistan) and separated from Hindu Kush (located further to south) by Pandzh river valley, is the highest part of southwestern Pamir. The area has several peaks higher than 6000m, culminating at splendid pyramids of splendid pyramids of Marx Peak (6723m) and Engels Peak (formerly the Queen's Peak, 6510m). Both were popular destinations during the Soviet era and as a result, several high caliber routes exist on both peaks.

Pik Sovetskoi Armii (Vooruzhennykh Sil SSSR)37.02777872.0830566138
1976-01-01
Pik Sovetskoi Armii, ,
First ascent
V. Starlychanov

Group Karl Marx

Karl Marx North (Nikoladze)37.170572.45886340
1964-01-01
Karl Marx North, ,
First ascent
M. Gvarliani
Pik Karl Marx (Tsar Mirotvorets, Pik Karla Marksa)37.162572.48176723
1946-09-06
Pik Karl Marx, Abalakov,
First ascent
Abalakov: Abalakov as part of group led by Evgeny Beletski
1951-01-01
Pik Karl Marx, Savvonov,
First ascent
Savvonov: Savvonov
1954-01-01
Pik Karl Marx, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: Nemsitsvericize
1976-01-01
Pik Karl Marx, Shevchenko,
First ascent
Shevchenko: Shevchenko
North face
North glacier & NW ridge. IV AD; AI3/70°; 3300m.
Shevchenko (North face central route). Rus 6B. 1976-01-01First ascentShevchenko, 1976.
East ridge
From Zugvand Col (c5500m) between Engels and Marx.
Savvonov. Rus 5A. 1951-01-01First ascentSavvonov, 1951.
SW side
South ridge (Nemsitsvericize). Rus 4B. 1954-01-01First ascentNemsitsvericize, 1954.
Abalakov (West ridge). Rus 4B. 1946-09-06First ascentAbalakov as part of group led by Evgeny Beletski, 1946-09-06.
Tajikski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet (TGU)37.145272.49476183
1961-01-01
Tajikski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet, ,
First ascent
S. Sawon
Pik Tajikistan (Pik Tadzhikistan)37.113572.49956565
1962-01-01
Pik Tajikistan, ,
First ascent
V. Savvon
Pik Tajikistan South6300
1972-01-01
Pik Tajikistan South, ,
First ascent
V. Laukhin
Leningradski Gosuniversitet North5750
1983-01-01
Leningradski Gosuniversitet North, ,
First ascent
I. Geldiashvili
Leningradski Gosuniversitet (LGU)37.103072.51366222
1958-01-01
Leningradski Gosuniversitet, ,
First ascent
V. Tikhonravov

Group Engels

Pik Engels (Czarina Pik, Queen's Peak)37.171472.51956510
1954-01-01
Pik Engels, ,
First ascent
M. Gvarliani
1963-01-01
Pik Engels, Snegirev,
First ascent
Snegirev: Snegirev
1964-01-01
Pik Engels, East ridge,
First ascent
East ridge: A. Kustovskiy
1964-01-01
Pik Engels, North Ridge,
First ascent
North Ridge: P. Budanov
1971-01-01
Pik Engels, East face,
First ascent
East face: Chunovkin
1973-01-01
Pik Engels, Nepomniaschiy,
First ascent
Nepomniaschiy: Nepomniaschiy
1982-01-01
Pik Engels, Efimov,
First ascent
Efimov: Sergey Efimov
1991-01-01
Pik Engels, Agafonov,
First ascent
Agafonov: Agafonov
1991-01-01
Pik Engels, Zhilin,
First ascent
Zhilin: Zhilin
North face
East ridge. Rus 6A+. 1964-01-01First ascentA. Kustovskiy, 1964.
East face. Rus 6A; 2300m. 1971-01-01First ascentChunovkin, 1971.
Efimov. Rus 6A; 2300m. 1982-01-01First ascentSergey Efimov, 1982.
Nepomniaschiy. Rus 6A; 2300m. 1973-01-01First ascentNepomniaschiy, 1973.
Agafonov. Rus 5B; 2300m. 1991-01-01First ascentAgafonov, 1991.
Zhilin. Rus 5B; 2300m. 1991-01-01First ascentZhilin, 1991.
North Ridge. Rus 6A. 1964-01-01First ascentP. Budanov, 1964.
West ridge
Snegirev. Rus 5A. 1963-01-01First ascentSnegirev, 1963.
Normal route. From Zugvand Col (c5500m) between Engels and Marx.
Pik Engels South (40 years of Ukranian Komsomol)37.163672.51656318
1964-01-01
Pik Engels South, ,
First ascent
Y. Yakovenko
Moskovskaya Pravda North (Vechernia Moskva)37.131472.54285491
1964-01-01
Moskovskaya Pravda North, ,
First ascent
AJurgelenis
Moskovskaya Pravda (Moscovoskoy Pravdi)37.127172.55106075
1964-01-01
Moskovskaya Pravda, ,
First ascent
A. Snesarev
Moskovskaya Pravda South (Pamati pogibshikh na Tetnulde)37.123972.55785739
1964-01-01
Moskovskaya Pravda South, ,
First ascent
M. Gvarliani

Shkhdara East group

Tbilisski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet37.175372.57626141
1954-01-01
Tbilisski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet, ,
First ascent
S. Gugava
Tbilisski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet South 1 (Litva)6080
1964-01-01
Tbilisski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet South 1, ,
First ascent
RAugunas
Tbilisski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet South 2 (Babel)6007
1967-01-01
Tbilisski Gosudarstvennyi Universitet South 2, ,
First ascent
V. Simonenko
61366136
1983-01-01
6136, ,
First ascent
V. Solonnikov
Marshal Grechko6105
1976-01-01
Marshal Grechko, ,
First ascent
V. Starlychanov
Baikonur6038
1976-01-01
Baikonur, ,
First ascent
V. Nekrasov
Lituanik6004
1984-01-01
Lituanik, ,
First ascent
A. Avulis

Eastern Pamir

The Eastern Pamirs are a mountainous upland of Tibetan type, with broad flat plateau of 3500-4000 meters high and occupies the eastern part of Pamir and stretches from its north to the south, being only once separated by Muzcol ridge.

The main ranges forming the eastern Pamir are:

  • Muzcol range Located in dead center of Pamir, east of Pik Revolution and south of Karakul lake. Muzcol is fairly compact range separated from Murghab, located on its south side, by Murgab valley. The range has several peaks around 6000m height, the highest being Soviet Officers Peak (6233m), the highest peak on Tajikistan part of Eastern Pamir. Area is seldom visited.
  • Murghab
  • Alitshur Pik Kysyldangi (5704m)
  • Wakhan range Wakhan is the southernmost range in Eastern Pamir, located in Wakhan Corridor area, almost entirely is Afghanistan. The group is not far from Shakhdara located on it's west side, Hindu Raj on its south side or Batura Muztagh range of Karakoram on its SE side.
  • Sarykol range Sarykol Range lies on the border between Tajikistan and China. It runs from north to south, parallel to Kongur Shan (aka Kashgar range) located further east. Taxkorgan valley through which Karakoram highway goes divides the two ranges. The highest peak of the range is Pik Lyavirdyr (6351m), located close to the head of Wakhan Corridor, at the souther end of Sarykol range.
  • Kashgar range aka Kongur Shan. If Kashgar range is considered to belong to Pamir and not part of Kunlun Shan is would be the highest part of entire Pamir. The range has three main massifs, each with high peaks: Chakragiol (6760m), Kongur (7649m) and Muztagh Ata (7546m).

Muzcol range

Located in dead center of Pamir, east of Pik Revolution and south of Karakul lake. Muzcol is fairly compact range separated from Murghab, located on its south side, by Murgab valley. The range has several peaks around 6000m height, the highest being Soviet Officers Peak (6233m), the highest peak on Tajikistan part of Eastern Pamir. Area is seldom visited.

Fay's Peak group

Peak of Soviet Tajikistan (Fay's Peak)38.548873.27526115
West Face and NW Ridge. Rus 5A; 45°.
Salters Peak5560
normal route. Rus 2A; II.
Muzkolski38.479373.20405895
NE & SE Ridge. Rus 3A; III.

Sovetskikh Ofizerov group

Snow Leopard Peak38.474073.36765875
Normal route. Rus 2B/AD-; III. 1997-08-06First ascentBjorn Andersson, Vince Diamond, Paul Hampson, Andrew Hilton, Mark Richard, Colin Sprange, Norman Veitch & Andrew Wielochowski, 1997-08-06.
Bitkaya Vostochnaya West5986
1986-01-01
Bitkaya Vostochnaya West, ,
First ascent
V. Zhak
Pik Sovetskikh Ofizerov (Soviet Officers Peak)38.424073.30206233
1988-01-01
Pik Sovetskikh Ofizerov, ,
First ascent
V. Strygin

Alitshur

Wakhan range

Wakhan is the southernmost range in Eastern Pamir, located in Wakhan Corridor area, almost entirely is Afghanistan. The group is not far from Shakhdara located on it's west side, Hindu Raj on its south side or Batura Muztagh range of Karakoram on its SE side.

P.5548 (Awal-Wakhjir Sar)5548
1905-05-27
P.5548, ,
First ascent
Party from Pol
Koh-e-Bay Qara5424
1905-05-17
Koh-e-Bay Qara, ,
First ascent
Party from Ger

Sarykol range

Sarykol Range lies on the border between Tajikistan and China. It runs from north to south, parallel to Kongur Shan (aka Kashgar range) located further east. Taxkorgan valley through which Karakoram highway goes divides the two ranges. The highest peak of the range is Pik Lyavirdyr (6351m), located close to the head of Wakhan Corridor, at the souther end of Sarykol range.