Big peak on the left is Gaherbrum IV with its NW ridge forming the left skyline. The face directly towards the camera is West Face, aka Shining Wall. Credit: Florian Ederer,  Shot on 2014-06-19 Photo taken in Skardu, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan.(c) Florian Ederer, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
Big peak on the left is Gaherbrum IV with its NW ridge forming the left skyline. The face directly towards the camera is West Face, aka Shining Wall. Credit: Florian Ederer, Shot on 2014-06-19 Photo taken in Skardu, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan.(c) Florian Ederer, licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

Karakoram (sometimes spelled Karakorum) lies in northeast Pakistan and Northern India, some 1500km west of Nepalase Himalayas and north of westernmost part of Himalaya, separated from it by the river of Indus. It is often regarded as a part of the Himalayas. The mountains in Karakoram typically have sharp, angular form and many of icy peaks are surrounded by wild towers and spires.

Based on geographical features Karakoram can be divided into Greater Karakoram formed by Karakoram main chain running more or less from west to East and northern and southern lesser Karakoram chains on either side of it. Greater Karakoram consists of several Muztaghs and most of the highest and best known peaks are located on this part of the range. For climbers though, probably more meaningful distinction is to use the division based on general location. The following combines the two so that areas are listed generally from West to East and within each area from North to South.

Western Karakoram

Hindu Raj

Lupgar

Lupgar range is located to the north of Batura glacier in NW corner of Karakoram. The mountains lie close to the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan with some valleys buffering the border falling in a 'restricted zone'. Most peaks are around 6000m and rock quality is generally very poor. Many 5000m peaks in this area are generally easy to climb and ideal for the first time visitor in Pakistan.

Batura Muztagh

Batura Muztagh forms the westernmost part of Karakoram main chain lying to the west of Hunza valley in Gilgit-Baltistan province of northern Pakistan. Closeness to Karakoram highway make this part easily accessible by Karakoram standards. The area contains some of the Karakoram's highest peaks outside the Baltoro region and some of the most impressive. Most imposing peaks in Passu massif and Batura wall lie to the south of Batura glacier but most ascents have been made from the south. Batura II (7762m) was and Muchu Chhish (7453m) still is among the highest unclimbed peaks in the world, therefore particularly Batura II has seen several suitors.

Kampire Dior group

Group of peaks rising in a horseshoe form around the end of Baltoro glacier. The highest peak is Kampe Dior with several other peaks either a little over or just below 7000m. The best known climbs of the area are Kampe Dior and Beka Brakai Chhok, both of whic have been visited by few parties. Other than that, not much information about the climbing is available. Of the unclimbed objectives, particularly North Face of Kuk Sar II is highly impressive.

Batura group

Batura peaks lie on Batura Muztagh main chain in NW-SE direction forming long continuous ridge known as Batura Wall. The order of peaks starting from North is IV, III, II, I, V (Muchu Chhish) and VI (Far East). The group has a major side ridge toward NE from III and one towards SW from II (Hachindar Chhish). Another prominent ridge drops towards South from Muchu Chhish. Huge north face is well visible from Baltoro glacier, but there have been remarkably few attempts from this side. South side climbs west if SW ridge of Bature II start from Baltar glacier while the ones on its east side start from Muchuchar glacier. The ridge can be crossed at Batokshi Col (~6000m) thus some of the routes on Batura I and II can be started from either of the valleys.

Pasu group

Peaks located on the ridge branching towards (N)E from Barura main chain on Pasu Sar, while SE chain consists of Shispare - Ultar Sar. Peaks are high and fairly accessible via Batura glacier (north side) or Pasu glacier (south side), yet not a lot information about climbs or attempts on the peaks can be found.

Atabad group

Southwestern cluster of peaks on Batura main ridge. The peaks are located close to Karimabad and Karakoram highway. The highest peak of the group is Ultar Sar with Bojohagur Duanasir and Hunza Peaks being the other main peaks of the area. Furthermore sharp pinnacles of Ladyfinger Peak (Bublimating) and Gulmit Tower are aesthetic peaks providing technical climbs. Very few successful ascents have been made in the peaks, therefore lots of room for new routes. The main goal of the area is SE spur of Ultar Sar that has been attempted several times by strong parties, so far without success.

Hachindar Chhish

Hachindar Chhish is the principal peak on the long chain branching SW from main chain at Batura II. Not much information about the climbs, but based on the first ascent party reporting to have aided several pitches and pictures of the peak, it seems safe to assume that all the possible routes are technical. Gutum Talji and Pute Towers are the other main features of the group.

Kampire Dior group
Kampire Dior I (Khampire Dior, Karambar Sar)36.62574.31757143
Central and the highest peak in the group. Two recorded ascents, both from Karamba glacier on the west side.
1900-01-01
Event
Pamri Sar I36.6474.3583333337016
1986-08-03
Pamri Sar I, ,
First ascent
Party from It
Sani Pakkush (Sani Pankush)36.56666666774.3808333336952
1991-07-29
Sani Pakkush, ,
First ascent
Hubert Bleicher
Kuk Sar I36.65083333374.4233333336943
1982-07-19
Kuk Sar I, ,
First ascent
Party from UK
Beka Brakai Chhok (Weisshorn)
The Matterhorn of Hunza. Apparently there has been a lot of confusion regarding to how many summits there are, which one of them is the highest and how high any one them is.
2008-01-01
Beka Brakai Chhok, ,
First ascent
Herve Barmasse & Simone Moro
Beka Brakai Chhok South, South ridge
South ridge. 2100m, 2 days. 2008-01-01First ascentHerve Barmasse & Simone Moro, 2008.
Seiri Porkush (Seiri Dorkush)36.5974.3256771
1984-08-04
Seiri Porkush, ,
First ascent
Party from UK
Batura group
Batura Sar (Batura I, Peak 32)36.5174.5233333337795
1976-06-30
Batura Sar, ,
First ascent
Hubert Bleicher & Herbert Oberhofer
South side
The upper face is usually gained by climbing the SW ridge (of Batura II) to Batokshi col (6000m). The col can be gained from either Muchuchar or Baltar glaciers.
Baltar route. 1976-01-01First ascentHubert Bleicher & Herbert Oberhofer, 1976.
Muchuhar route (East ridge). 50°; 3900m. 1983-01-01First ascentAustrian expedition, 1983.
Normal route. More frequently climbed than Baltar route. From BC at 4000m via Batokshi Col (6000m) to South Ridge, then East Ridge just before the summit.
Sarbzea Sar36.54083333374.54256784
1954-08-05
Sarbzea Sar, ,
First ascent
Party from Ger
Batura IV (Ouest Peak)7594
1900-01-01
Event
South face
1983-08-31First ascentZygmunt A. Heinrich, Pawel Mularz, & Volker Stallbohm, 1983-08-31.
Batura II (Peak 31)36.29999774.317762
Batura II was considered the highest unclimbed peak outside Bhutan, which attracted several strong parties. The coveted first ascent fell for Korean party in 2008 who climbed the peak from south side, which was also the most common direction by previous attempts.
1900-01-01
Event
South face
More difficult but less dangerous compared to the western face. All attempts prior to 2005 were made from this side. The long SW ridge which further away contains several independent peaks divides the south side (Muchuhar glacier) from the west side (Baltar glacier). Almost all parties climbed the ridge to Batokshi col (~6000m) below south face. The col can be gained from both glaciers.
South face. 2008-08-11First ascentKim Chang-ho & Choi Suk-mun, 2008-08-11.
West face
Easier but more dangerous than South face. The long SW ridge which further away contains several independent peaks divides the south side (Muchuhar glacier) from the west side (Baltar glacier). Almost all parties climbed the ridge to Batokshi col (~6000m) below south face. The col can be gained from both glaciers.
Pasu group
Shishpare (Shishparé, Shishpare Sar)36.44083333374.6808333337611
1974-07-21
Shishpare, ,
First ascent
H. Bleicher, L. Cichy, M. Grochowski, J. Holnicki-Szulc, A. Mlynarczyk, H. Oberhofer & J. Poreba
NE face
East ridge
East ridge. 1974-07-21First ascentH. Bleicher, L. Cichy, M. Grochowski, J. Holnicki-Szulc, A. Mlynarczyk, H. Oberhofer & J. Poreba, 1974-07-21.
Normal route. Follows Pasu Glacier to the East Ridge, between the Pasu and Ghulkin glaciers. (Note: this ridge goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east, so it is called the "southeast ridge" and the "northeast ridge" in different sources.).
Pasu Sar (Passu Sar, Pasu I)36.487574.5883333337476
1994-08-07
Pasu Sar, ,
First ascent
Max Wallner, Dirk Naumann, Ralf Lehmann & Volker Wurnig
Ghenta Sar (Ghenta Peak)36.42666666774.6891666677090
1974-07-21
Ghenta Sar, ,
First ascent
Party from Pl
Passu Diar (Passu Peak, Passu East)
Atabad group
Ultar Sar (Ultar II, Ultar)36.39083333374.7166666677388

Ultar Sar marks the SW end of Batura Muztagh rising close to Karimabad and Karakoram Highway. The peak consists of three main ridges and faces: East ridge dividing North and SE faces, prominent South ridge dividing SW and SE faces and West ridge connecting Ultar Sar with nearby Bojohagur Duanasir located to (N)west. Despite of short approach, very few ascents as all routes are huge and very difficult. Most attempts gave taken place from SW, however SE spur is the most coveted climb on the peak.

1996-07-11
Ultar Sar, ,
First ascent
Akito Yamazaki & Kiyoshi Matsuoka
SE spur
Standout feature of the mountain is 3000m SE spur, dubbed "Walker Spur" of Karakoram. It has been attempted few times by accomplished alpinists including Janick Graziani with various partners (1998, 2000 and 2005) and GiriGiri boys (2012). So far unsuccessfully.
SW side
Long and prominent South ridge divides south side into SW (Ultar glacier) and SE (Gurpi glacier).
SW face. 1996-07-11First ascentAkito Yamazaki & Kiyoshi Matsuoka, 1996-07-11.
South ridge. 1996-07-21First ascentKen Takahashi, Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Waltaru Saito & Nobuo Tsutsumi, 1996-07-21.
Most early attempts have followed South ridge.
Bojohagur Duan Asir (Bojohagur Dunasir)7329
1984-07-28
Bojohagur Duan Asir, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Gulmit Tower
Hunza Peak6270
Prominent peak on the very long SW ridge if Ultar rising immediately NW of Karimabad (Hunza valley). Perhaps even more striking is Bublimating (Ladyfinger Peak) rising immediately to SW, separated form Hunza Peak by high col.
1900-01-01
Event
South side
SW ridge. 1991-01-01First ascentMick Fowler & Caradog Jones, 1991.
Ladyfinger Peak (Bublimating, Bublimotin)36.3774.656000
1900-01-01
Event
  • +Belles pp.112
East ridge
East ridge. 600m. 1982-05-22First ascentPatrick Cordier & Jacques Mauri, 1982-05-22.
Normal route. From the col between Hunza Peak and Bublimotin.
SW face
SW face. 5.10,A3+/VII,A3+; 800m. 1995-08-24First ascentYasushi Yamanoi, Daisaku Nakagaki & Taeko Nagao, 1995-08-24.
Hachindar Chhish
Sang-e-Marmar36.42583333374.5608333336990
1984-07-11
Sang-e-Marmar, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Hachindar Chhish36.4574.476870
1982-08-04
Hachindar Chhish, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
SE face
SE face. 1982-01-01First ascentJapanese party, 1982.
Hachindar Chhish7163
1900-01-01
Event
SE face
SE face. 1982-01-01First ascentJapanese party, 1982.
Pute Tower III36.4300574.465895800
1900-01-01
Event
East face
East face & South ridge. 1996-01-01First ascentPete Thompson, Johannes Gouws, Tom Goodwin, Pete Scott & Sam Stacey, 1996.

Naltar

Naltar valley lies in the NW of Gilgit surrounded by the peaks of Naltar mountains. The range is low by Karakoram standards with none of the peaks reaching 6000m. Sentinel (5260m) and Shani peak (5887m) are likely most climbed peaks of the range. Sentinel is a moderately difficult alpine climb, while Shani peak is a serious mixed rock and I snow climb.

Shani Peak
The main climbing goal of Naltar mountains. It is worth to note, that though the peak is low by Karakoram standards, the climbs are still big enough for most tastes (difficult faces with more than 1000m altitude gain) and one day ascents of technical routes require very fast party.
1900-01-01
Event
East side
NE Spur. TD+; V, 65/70°; 1000m. 1999-08-22First ascentAndreas Amons & Melvin Redeker, 1999-08-22.
SE face, Dutch route. TD/TD+; VI, 65/70°; 1600m. 1999-08-30First ascentElwin van der Gragt & Benno Netelenbos, 1999-08-30.
West ridge
West ridge. 1986-01-01First ascentRoger Everett & Guy Muhlemann, 1986.
Sentinel5260
Easier of the two main climbing objectives from Naltar valley.
West ridge
West ridge.
Snow Dome5030
Located on NE ridge of Chogolisa II and only climbed as part of that route.
North ridge
North ridge.

Northern Karakoram

Ghujerab Mountains

Despite being visible to Karakoram highway, Ghujerab areas are not too popular among foreign climbers. Lack of really famous peaks is certainly one reason for that, the reportedly appalling rock quality without a doubt another. The highest peak of the area is Karun Koh (7164m). The most accessible part of the range is Tupopdan and the entire cathedral ridge, both of which are visible from Karakoram Highway.

Main access to Ghujerab Mountains is from Shimshal valley. The valley apparently has strong mountaineering tradition and several Pakistani climbers who have climbed the high peaks of the country come from the valley. Therefore no reason to expect the peak to be unclimbed if no reports can be found on the usual sources.

Tupopdan

The group located on the east side of Hunza valley and Karakoram highway, NE of Passu and more or less opposite Batura glacier. The highest peak of the group is Tupopdan (6106m, also known as "Passu Cones" or "Passu Cathedral"). Other than that the whole Cathedral ridge is full of sharp rock summits.

North Ghujerab

North Ghujerab mountains are located between Khunjerab valley in the north ans Ghujerab valley in the south. Jerzy Wala map does not name any other mountains but there are several peaks above 6000m. The highest peak is Charchingal Sar (6483m). At least Koksil Sar has been visited by climbers.

South Ghujerab

South Ghujerab mountains are located between Ghujerab valley in the north ans Shimshal valley in the south. The highest peak of the group is Karun Koh. Jerzy Wala map does not name any other mountains but there are several peaks above 6000m.

Central Karakoram

All of the most famous peaks in Karakoram are located in Central Karakoram, that contains Hispar, Panmah and Baltoro Muztaghs in the Greater Karakoram. Baltoro has all four 8000m peaks in Karakoram, as well as famous rock spires of Uli Biaho, Trango and Muztagh Towers. Panmah is home to Ogre and Latok groups, both having host of the most coveted unclimbed lines. Also southern Lesser Karakoram has some very impressive peaks like Rakaposhi and Masherbrum range. Particularly the latter has become popular as several parties have visited Charakusa and Nangma valleys around Hushe.

Wesm/Yengisogat

Wesm range (also known as Yengisogat), is a Chinese (Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region) subrange of the Karakoram, located due north of Baltoro Muztagh. The highest peak is Huangguan Shan (Crown Peak) at 7265m. Not well known range among the climbers.

Insgaiti Muztagh

Crown group
Huang Guan Shan (Crown Peak, Huang Guan Feng)36.10666666776.2058333337295
1993-07-22
Huang Guan Shan, ,
First ascent
Akito Yamasaki, Yasuyuki Aritomi & Kazuo Tokushima
East face
East face. 1993-07-22First ascentAkito Yamasaki, Yasuyuki Aritomi & Kazuo Tokushima, 1993-07-22.

Hispar Muztagh

Hispar Muztagh is located in the Gojal region of Pakistan, north of Hispar Glacier, south of Shimshal Valley, and east of the Hunza Valley. The chain south of Hispar glacier with numerous 6000m peaks is not part of Hispar Muztagh, it belongs to Lesser Karakoram. Hispar is the second highest sub-range of the Karakoram after Baltoro Muztagh. Aside of 8000m peaks in Baltoro, the highest peaks of Karakoram are located in Hispar Muztagh, with Distaghil Sar (7885m), Kunyang Chhish (7852m) and Kanjut Sar (7760m) being the highest. The area is not part of the restricted border zone. Despite of this, the area is not very often visited by climbers.

Momhil group

Westernmost mountains in Hispar Muztagh. Several 7000m peaks, yet the peaks are seldom climbed.

Disteghil group

Northern group on the Central Hispar Muztagh. The peaks are connected with Momhil group by a high ridge, so these two groups are not really separated. Distaghil Sar, the highest peak of entire Hispar Muztagh, is located in this group. Other than that Malangutti Sar and Yazghil Domes are the other main peaks.

Yazghil group

Southern group of Central Hispar Muztagh. The peaks are located close to Biafo glacier and not very remote by Karakoram standards. Very few ascents on any of the peaks. Khunyang Chhish East got attention from elite climbers as it was among the highest unclimbed peaks until Simon Anthamatten and Auer brothers climbed it in 2013.

Khunyang Chhish lies in the heart of the Hispar Muztagh, north of the Hispar Glacier, one of the major glaciers of the Karakoram, and actually it location is in Skardu District of Baltistan. It rises on the southwest side of the Khunyang Glacier while Distaghil Sar (the highest peak of the Hispar Muztagh) dominates the glacier on its northern end.

Kanjut group

Groups to the east of Yazghil and Yutmary glaciers and to the west of Khundopin glacier. There being several high peaks, particularly Kanjut and Yukshin Gardan Sar. The peaks are furthest away road ends of all of Hispar Muztagh which is certainly one reason why the peaks are little explored.

Momhil group
Trivor Sar (Trivor Peak)36.28833333375.0857577
1960-08-17
Trivor Sar, ,
First ascent
Wilfrid Noyce & Jack Sadler
South side
NW ridge from South. 1960-08-17First ascentWilfrid Noyce & Jack Sadler, 1960-08-17.
  • Berge der Welt
North side
NW ridge from north. 1991-08-30First ascentToshifumi Onuki & Atsushi Endo, 1991-08-30.
Momhil Sar36.31916666775.0357343
1964-06-29
Momhil Sar, ,
First ascent
Party from A
SE side
SE ridge connects Momhil Sar with Trivor. It is also considered the be probably the easiest route, although FA party climbed SE face and South ridge instead.
SE side. 16h from camp on Momhil Sar-Trivor col.
Lupghar Sar36.34833333375.0258333337201
  • Peak 7010 (Lupghar Sar West II) (7010m)
  • Lupghar Sar West (7200m36.34833333375.025833333)
  • Lupghar Sar Central (7201m36.34833333375.025833333)
  • Lupghar Sar East (Lupghar Sar) (7200m36.34833333375.025833333)
Lupghar Sar located in Shishkat valley of Hunza Gojal and marks the westernmost 7000er in Hispar Muztagh. Together with Momhil Sar and Trivor it forms Momsil group. All three main summits are quoted as c7200m, with the east summit thought to be the highest.
1979-06-01
Lupghar Sar, ,
Event
Austrian party
1979-06-01
Lupghar Sar, ,
Event
Japanese party
1979-08-04
Lupghar Sar, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Bularung Sar36.29916666775.137110
1990-07-25
Bularung Sar, ,
First ascent
Party from CH
Disteghil group
Disteghil Sar (Distaghil Sar)36.32583333375.1883333337885
  • West (7885m36.32583333375.188333333)
  • Central (7760m)
  • SE (7535m)
Disteghil Sar is the highest peak in Hispar Muztagh, 7th highest in Pakistan and 19th highest mountain on earth. The mountain has an about 5km long top ridge above 7400m with three distinct summits. All successful climbs have been from the south side, although the north side has been attempted at least twice.
1960-06-09
Disteghil Sar, ,
First ascent
Günther Stärker & Diether Marchart
North face
Attempted at least three times (1988, 1998 and 2008), all unsuccessfully. 2008 party reported the approach glacier to be very badly broken.
South face
South face & SW ridge. 1960-06-09First ascentGünther Stärker & Diether Marchart, 1960-06-09.
Normal route. Western part of the South face and SW ridge to west summit.
Yazghil Dome (Yazghil Dome (NE))36.31166666775.2408333337365
1983-07-28
Yazghil Dome, ,
First ascent
Ryszard Kowalewski, Andrzej Bielun, Dr. Jacek Gronczewski, Tadeusz Piotrowski & Jerzy Tillak via SW face
Malangutti Sar36.36333333375.1483333337140
1985-08-12
Malangutti Sar, ,
First ascent
Y. Muranaka, K. Nakahara, T. Sugimoto & A. Nima
Yazghil group
Kunyang Chhish (Khunyang Chhish)36.20575.2066666677823
1971-08-26
Kunyang Chhish, ,
First ascent
Party from Pl
Kunyang Chhish East36.19583333375.2277777787400
2013-07-18
Kunyang Chhish East, ,
First ascent
Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer & Hansjörg Auer
Kunyang Chhish North36.25083333375.22257108
1979-07-11
Kunyang Chhish North, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish (Pumari Chhish North, Pumarikish)36.21166666775.257492
1979-07-15
Pumari Chhish, ,
First ascent
S. Chiba, K. Minami, M. Ohashi & H. Yokoyama
North ridge
North ridge. 1979-06-12First ascentS. Chiba, K. Minami, M. Ohashi & H. Yokoyama, 1979-06-12.
Pumari Chhish South East (Pumari Chhish South)7297
2007-06-12
Pumari Chhish South East, ,
First ascent
Yannick Graziani & Christian Trommsdorff
Kanjut group
Kanjut Sar group
Kanjut Sar I36.20583333375.4166666677790
1959-07-19
Kanjut Sar I, ,
First ascent
Camillo Pellissier
South side
South ridge. 1959-06-19First ascentCamillo Pellissier, 1959-06-19.
South ridge via the Upper Khurdopin Glacier.
West face
West face. 1981-08-04First ascentJapanese party, 1981-08-04.
Kanjut Sar II36.1475.446831
1985-07-10
Kanjut Sar II, ,
First ascent
Party from CH
Hispar Sar6400
1900-01-01
Hispar Sar, ,
Event
Simon Yates, Andy Parkin (to south ridge) Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, Steve Su
SW face
SW face couloir (Parkins-Yates). ED; 1100m. 2001-01-01First ascentSimon Yates, Andy Parkin (to south ridge), 2001.2011-08-05First ascentDoug Chabot, Bruce Miller, Steve Su, 2011-08-05.
Tahu Rutum6651
1900-01-01
Event
West side
Tahu Rutum is particularly impressive from the west side where steep West face rises about 1350m from East Khani Basa Glacier. The face is framed with NW and SW ridges, both of which are technically difficult as well. The only recorded climb took place on SW ridge. Also NW ridge and West face have been attempted.
SW ridge. 1977-07-01First ascentKazuya Mitsumoshi, Kazuto Obata, Yoshinobu Tanaka & Yukio Usagawa, 1977-07.
The ridge was gained from the east.
Yazghil Sar-Yutmaru Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar (Yakshin Gardin Sar)36.25083333375.3757469
1984-06-26
Yukshin Gardan Sar, ,
First ascent
Party from A

Panmah Muztagh

Panmah Muztagh lies in the heart of Karakoram in Baltistan District of Pakistan. Peaks of the area are not particularly high by Karakoram standards, the highest being Baintha Brakk (The Ogre, 7285m). However, what they lack in height, they more than make up for grandeur. This area is home to particularly wild and exceedingly steep rock spires offering no easy way up. Baintha Brakk has only been climbed thrice (by 2014), each time by world class teams. First ascent is famous for epic as Doug Scott broke both ankles close to summit and Chris Bonington broke two ribs and contracted pneumonia. Second ascent took 24 years and 25 failed attemps. Another highlight of the area is Latok group, the ascents on which are of similar difficulty.

Ogre and Latok groups aside, not much is known about the peaks on Panmah. The long chain to the north of Chocktoi glacier contains Biacherahi Towers, at least some of which have been climbed. Still further north, a chain of peaks runs generally from west to east. The chain has several peaks above 6000m high, but no real giants or famous peaks. The main peaks of this chain are Braldu Brakk, Lupke Brakk and Bobisghir.

Ogre Group

The group is dominated by two main peaks, Ogre I and II. Ogre III is not so much an independent mountain, rather West summit of Ogre II. Both of the main peaks are supremely difficult, as far as I know, there has been a grand total of five ascent by spring 2014 to any summit of Ogre I, II or III. That is not for the lack of trying either, as there has been tens of serious attempts by very strong parties.

Unlike III, Ogre II is very much an independent, and imposing for that matter, peak. Certainly not a side summit of Ogre I as the two are separated by a col at 5650m. Ogre III on thew other hand is West summit of Ogre II but apparently nowadays counts as independent mountain. The peaks is complex and very difficult, considered to be at least as difficult as Ogre I.

Latok Group

Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group and form a horseshoe around Baintha Lupga glacier. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier.From west to East the peaks are Latok II, I, III, IV and V. The lack of more descript name does not mean that Latok group would be a single ridge with multiple summits, instead all five of Latok peaks are independent mountains.

All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world. First party that gained permit to climb in Latok group described the area: "Like a row of El Capitans, only... somewhat bigger". Latok II used to be considered the highest of the peaks.

Choktoi group

The long chain to the north of Chocktoi glacier contains Biacherahi Towers, at least some of which have been climbed.

Chiring group

Chiring group is the chain of peaks NW of Payu and Trango peaks of Baltoro Muztagh in the easternmost part of Panmah Muztagh.

Ogre Group
Baintha Brakk I (Ogre I, Baintha Brakk)35.94833333375.7541666677285
  • Ogre (Ogre I, Baitha Brakk) (7285m35.94833333375.754166667)
  • West summit (7150m)
  • East summit (7150m)

Highest mountain in Biafo Glacier area. Besides the main summit (7285m), both West and East summits are 7150m high. Despite several attemps, the second ascent succeeded only in 2002 by Thomas Huber, Iwan Wold & Urs Stöcker. Thomas Huber recounts the ascent in Ogre - Gipfel der Träume.

1977-07-13
Baintha Brakk I, ,
First ascent
Chris Bonington & Doug Scott
  • Huber, Thomas: Ogre. Gipfel Der Träume.. Isbn: 9783405163747. Blv Verlagsgesellschaft, 2002.
  • Bonington, Chris: The Everest Years. Isbn: 9780340366905. Hodder & Stoughton, 1986.
North face
South side
SE ridge rises from the the col 5650m between Ogre I and II.
W Face & West Ridge via West Summit (British Route). VI,A2; 3000m. 1977-07-13First ascentChris Bonington & Doug Scott. The first ascent is one of the most famous epics in the history of alpinism. Doug Scott broke both his legs right after they had summited. As if this was not bad enough, storm broke in. Chris Bonington describes the epic in Everest Years., 1977-07-13.
The first ascent party climbed via the Southwest Spur to the West Ridge, and over the West Summit to the Main Summit. Tricky climbing led up to the final tower with a nearly vertical 100m granite face. This was probably the hardest technical climb ever achieved above 7000m at that time. The epic descent is well documented in the mountaineering history.
South Pillar. 6a-7a,A2. 2001-07-21First ascentUrs Stoecker, Iwan Wolf & Thomas Huber, 2001-07-21.
Climbs Fine/Vauquet route (1985) to the top of the Pillar at 6500m, then traverses along the South Face along the Bonington/Estcourt route to each the summit via the line originally climbed by Scott/Bonington (1977).
South face. 5.9X, AI5 M6R. 2012-08-21First ascentHayden Kennedy & Kyle Dempster, 2012-08-21.
Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II)35.932575.7658333336969
1983-07-16
Baintha Brakk II, ,
First ascent
Party from SK
Uzun Brakk (Conway's Ogre)6422
Located SW of main Ogre peaks at the western end of Uzun Brakk glacier.
1900-01-01
Event
SW face
At the Right Time in the Right Place (West pillar). 6b,A1, M5/70°; 1600m. 2013-01-01First ascentOndra Mandula & Jiri Pliska, 2013.
Ogre III6800
Could be considered West summit of Ogre II, but apparently considered to be independent peak.
1900-01-01
Event
West pillar
West pillar. VII,A3, 60°. 2001-07-01First ascentUrs Stoecker, Iwan Wolf & Thomas Huber, 2001-07-01.
Choktoi Spire5900
1900-01-01
Event
North side
Pain is a Privilege. nccs V 5.10 A2. 2006-06-01First ascentJon Walsh & Jeff Relph, 2006-06.
Ogre's Thumb5500
Latok Group
Latok I (Latok Central)35.92833333375.82257151
Famous peak with rich history of spirited attempts by very strong parties. Despite of this, very few successful climbs. Both north ridge and north face count among the most sought-after unclimbed objectives in the world of alpinism.
1979-07-19
Latok I, ,
First ascent
Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro & Yu Watanabe
  • +Belles pp.110
North face
Both North ridge and NW face rank high among the most coveted goals for elite alpinists. Despite several attempts by many of the worlds leading alpinists since the late seventies, neither one has been climbed.
North ridge.
The steep 2500m North ridge is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted by the noted American climbers Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit. Since then the ridge has gained a formidable reputation, enforcing the fact that the 1978 attempt was one of the most impressive in the history of alpine-style in the Greater Ranges.
North face.
South side
East Ridge from south. 1979-01-01First ascentSin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro & Yu Watanabe, 1979.
Normal route. Considered to be the easiest route (well, given that is the only route that has been completed this is pretty much a given). However, with Latok the easiest and easy are very different thing. Difficult and objectively dangerous.
Latok II
1977-08-28
Latok II, ,
First ascent
E. Alimonta, T. Mase & R. Valentini
SE face
SE buttress (South ridge). nccs VI 5.10 A3. 1977-01-01First ascentE. Alimonta, T. Mase & R. Valentini, 1977.
SW face
Théorème de la peine. ED; M5; 2000m. 2012-06-05First ascentMathieu Maynadier, Bletton Antoine, Pierre Labbre & Sebastien Ratel, 2012-06-05.
West face
Tsering Mosong (West face). nccs VII 5.10c A3; VII+,A3+; 2200m. 1997-01-01First ascentAlexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch & Conrad Anker, 1997.
NW ridge
Nomadu (West face & NW ridge). nccs VI 5.10a WI5 A2; 1100m. 1997-01-01First ascentFranz Fendt & Christian Schlesener, 1997.
NW Ridge Integral. nccs VI 6a M6; 2400m. 2009-08-06First ascentÁlvaro Novellón & Óscar Pérez, 2009-08-06.
Latok III (Latok East)35.92027777875.8377777786949
1979-07-15
Latok III, ,
First ascent
Yoji Teranishi, Kazushige Takami & Sakae Mori
SE face
SW ridge. ED+/nccs VI 5.10 A2; VI+,A2; 1800m. 1979-07-15First ascentYoji Teranishi, Kazushige Takami & Sakae Mori, 1979-07-15.
West face
SW ridge. Rus 6B; 2000m. 2011-06-25First ascentAlexander Odintsov, Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev & Eugeniy Dmitrenko, 2011-06-25.
Normal route. Prior to first ascent attempted several times by Alexander Odintsov (1992, 1998, 2000).
Latok IV
1900-01-01
Event
North summit, SW face
Japanese route. 1980-01-01First ascentM. Ohmiya &, K. Okano, 1980.
Czech route. TD; 5+/70°; 800m. 2009-01-01First ascentO. Mandula & J. Pliska, 2009.
North summit, SW face
Japanese route. 1980-01-01First ascentM. Ohmiya, 1980.
Latok V6190
Located at the end of the southeast ridge of Latok III. Overshadowed by the higher Latok Peaks, but by far the easiest route on any of the Latok peaks.
South face
South face. nccs III 5.6 WI2.
Suma Brakk (Choktoi, Choktoi I)6166
Chiring group
Karpogo Sar I (Kezhen, Chiring Peak)35.92576.1733333337038
1989-08-14
Karpogo Sar I, ,
First ascent
Party from Cz/Ger
Changtok Sar I35.94583333376.1866666676972
1994-07-24
Changtok Sar I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Skamri Sar36.02416666776.07256771
1979-07-20
Skamri Sar, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp

Baltoro Muztagh

Baltoro Muztagh is without a doubt the best known area of Karakoram among the climbers and also the most visited. Obvious highlights are the 8000ers K2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak. Very difficult K2 is obviously by far the most famous of the peaks, but its difficulty and steepness keep the number of attemps at bay. Particularly as its relentless steepness make it far less suitable for siege tactics typically used by commercial expeditions. The other three 8000m peaks are among the easier 8000m peaks, particularly Gasherbrum II. Those 8000m peraks aside, other famous peaks of the area are Gasherbrum IV (aka Shining Mountain) and Muztagh and Trango Towers. All three of them being extremely difficult.

Western Baltoro Muztagh (Trango)

Baltoro Muztagh is without a doubt the best known area of Karakoram among the climbers and also the most visited. Obvious highlights are the 8000ers K2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak. Very difficult K2 is obviously by far the most famous of the peaks, but its difficulty and steepness keep the number of attemps at bay. Particularly as its relentless steepness make it far less suitable for siege tactics typically used by commercial expeditions. The other three 8000m peaks are among the easier 8000m peaks, particularly Gasherbrum II. Those 8000m peaks aside, other famous peaks of the area are Gasherbrum IV (aka Shining Mountain) and Muztagh and Trango Towers. All three of them being extremely difficult.

Payu group

Uli Biaho group consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (6109m) and Uli Biaho Peak (6417m). Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style via the direct East Face by John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Ron Kauk & Bill Forrest on 1979 and the first ascent was widely considered to be the most difficult climb in the greater ranges at the time (first ncss grade VII). Roskelley included a chapter on Uli Biaho in his 1993 book Stories Off the Wall. Hainabrakk and Shipton Spire are the other famous peaks of the group.

Group of mighty rock spires, each with difficult routes. Particularly Shipton Spire has attracted several climbers and correspondingly there are several routes.

Trango Towers

The Trango Towers are a group of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier between Uli Biaho in the West and Muztagh Towers in the east. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. In fact, the east face of the Great Trango Tower is commonly considered the tallest vertical face in the world.

All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, trending northwest-southeast, between the Trango Glacier on the west and the Dunge Glacier on the east. The group is reasonable easy to access as it is located much closer to civilization than many other popular peaks in Pakistan.

The highest point in the group is the large massif of Great Trango Tower culminating at 6286m high main summit. Just northwest of Great Trango is the Trango Tower (6239 m), often called "Nameless Tower". This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1000m out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as "Trango Monk." To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, though they share the Trango name. Trango II (6327m) lies northwest of the Monk, and the highest summit on the ridge, Trango Ri (6363m), lies northwest of Trango II. Just southeast of Great Trango (really a part of its southeast ridge) is the Trango Pulpit (6050m), whose walls present similar climbing challenges to those of Great Trango itself. Further to the south is Trango Castle (5753m), the last large peak along the ridge before the Baltoro Glacier.

Muztagh Tower group

Group located to the East of Trango group and west of Chongtar-Skil Brum and K2. Significantly higher but less known than the climbs of Trango group. Both routes climbed in 1956 were among the most difficult climbing ever done at such altitude at the time.

Lobsang group

Peaks between Trango group and Dunge glacier in the west and Muztagh glacier and Tower in the east.

Choricho group
Choricho35.72666666776.0866666676769
1979-08-01
Choricho, ,
First ascent
Party from USA /UK
Payu group
Paiyu Peak (Payu, Paiju)6660
1900-01-01
Event
South pillar
South pillar. 5.10d,A3, M5. 2014-07-26First ascentAlberto Inurrategi, Juan Vallejo & Mikel Zabala, 2014-07-26.
Uli Biaho Tower6109
1900-01-01
Event
  • Roskelley, John: Stories Off the Wall, Reprint edition. Isbn: 9780898866094. Mountaineers Books, 1998.
East face
South pillar (Pilone Sud). Rock, 6b+,A3/5.10,A3; 600m. 1988-06-21First ascentMaurizio Giordani, Rosanna Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo & Kurt Walde, 1988-06-21.
Direct east face. nccs VII 5.11d,A4; 34 pitches. 1979-07-03First ascentJohn Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Ron Kauk & Bill Forrest, 1979-07-03.
Extremely difficult route, the first nccs grade VII at the time of the first ascent.
Russian Roulette. 6c+,A2; 1900m. 2013-08-14First ascentDenis Veretenin & Evgenii Bashkirtcev, 2013-08-14.
SW face
West face. 6a/b,A0, 70°; 500m, 18 pitches. 2013-07-21First ascentMatteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera & Silvan Schüpbach, 2013-07-21.
Normal route. Most likely the easiest route on the mountain.
NW face
Drastissima. ABO; VI/WI6; 2200m, 54h. 2006-06-25First ascentGabo Cmarik & Jozef Kopold, 2006-06-25.
Hainabrakk East Tower (Hainabrakk)5651
East side
1000m routes mainly on rock.
Cat's Ears Spire5360
Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk Central Tower)6017
The standout feature of the peaks is huge East face, that has several difficult routes involving difficult rock climbing and usually aid.
1900-01-01
Event
East face
Ship of Fools. VI 5.11 A2 WI6; 1300m. 1997-08-01First ascentJared Ogden & Mark Synnott, 1997-08.
Women and Chalk. VI 5.13b; 8a; 1150m, 29 pitches. 2001-08-01First ascentMauro Bole, Fabio Dandri & Mario Cortese, 2001-08.
Inshallah. VII 5.12a A1; 1350m, 1350m. 1998-01-01First ascentSteph Davis, Kennan Harvey & Seth Shaw, 1998.
Trango group
Trango Ri (Trango I)6363
Northernmost and the highest of Trango peaks, yet far less coveted target by climbers.
Trango II6327
1900-01-01
Event
SE ridge
SE ridge. 1995-01-01First ascentAntonio Aquerreta, Ferman Izco & Mikel Zabalza, 1995.
SW ridge
Severence Ridge. nccs VI 5.11 A2 AI3 M5; 1500m, 63 pitches. 2005-01-01First ascentSamuel Johnson, Jonathon Clearwater & Jeremy Frimer, 2005.
Trango Monk5850
1900-01-01
Event
East face
Chota Badla. 6b,A2/5.10d,A2, 70°; 450m, 14h. 2004-01-01First ascentMiha Valic & Tomaz Jakofcic, 2004.
Trango Tower (Nameless Tower)35.76314876.1950356239
Slightly lower but more elegant in shape than Great Trango Tower. Whereas Great Trango is massive mountain with multiple summits, Trango Tower is very much a tower. The climbing on the peak is concentrated on the gigantic South face.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Fanshawe, Andy & Venables, Stephen: Himalaya Alpine Style - The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks. Isbn: 9780898864564. Mountaineers Books, 1996.
  • Curran, Jim: Trango. Isbn: 9780950627205. Dark Peak Limited, 1978.
  • Skinner, Todd: Beyond the Summit - Setting and Surpassing Extraordinary Business Goals. Isbn: 159184004X. Portfolio Hardcover, 2003.
  • Child, Greg: Postcards From the Ledge - Collected Mountaineering Writings of Greg Child. Isbn: 9780898867534. The Mountaineers Books, 1998.
  • +Belles pp.107
South face
Gran Diedre Desplomado (West pillar). Rock, nccs VI 5.11 A4; 6c,A4; 1100m. 1987-01-01First ascentMichel Piola, Stéphane Schaffter, Patrick Delale & Michel Fauquet, 1987.
British Route. Rock, nccs VI 5.10 A2; 1100m. 1976-01-01First ascentMalcolm Howells, Martin Boysen, Joe Brown & Mo Anthoine, 1976.
Eternal Flame. Rock, nccs VI 5.12c A0/nccs VI 5.13a; 7c+/7b+,A2; 650m, 35 pitches. 1989-09-20First ascentWolfgang Gullich, Kurt Albert, Milan Sykora & Christoph Stiegler, 1989-09-20.
Slovenian Route. nccs VI 5.11 A0/nccs VI 5.12; 900m. 1987-01-01First ascentSlavko Čankar, Franček Knez & Bojan Šrot, 1987.
NW face
No Fear. nccs VII 6b+ A3; 1120m. 2011-08-01First ascentDmitry Golovchenko, Sergey Nilov, Viktor Volodin & Alexander Yurkin, 2011-08.
Insumisioa. nccs VI 6a A3+. 1995-01-01First ascentAntonio Aqueretta, Fermin Izco & Mikel Zabalza, 1995.
Great Trango Tower
The highest of the Trango peaks and possibly the most famous one. Name might be a tad misleading is Great Trango is not really a tower per se, rather a massive mountain with multiple summits. The peak is known for massive big wall climbs on huge vertical faces, particularly on the NW face of West summit. Normal route is significantly easier. Perhaps the most difficult aspect of the peak is however East face of East summit where ascents are few and far between. Iconic NE Pillar, known as Norwegian Buttress is probably the most elegant feature of the mountain.
1900-01-01
Event
Main summit, West side
American route (West side). 5.9,aid. 1977-07-21First ascentGalen Rowell, John Roskelly, Kim Schmitz & Dennis Hennek, 1977-07-21.
Starts from the west side and climbs a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face. despite referred to as normal route by Himalayan Climbs, this is significantly more difficult than Wooolums-Selters 1984 route.
NW Ridge
NW Ridge (North face, Woolums route, Woolums-Selters, Mountaineering route). 55°, III. 1984-08-19First ascentAndy Selters & Scott Woolums, 1984-08-19.
Normal route. From Trango Glacier to northwest ridge.
South face
Assalam Alaikum (Slovenian route). ABO/nccs VII 5.11d,A2; 5.11d,A2; 90 pitches. 2005-01-01First ascentGabo Cmarik & Jozef Kopold, 2005.
FA party stopped at at approximately 6150m along the summit ridge.
West summit, SW Ridge (Azeem Ridge)
Azeem Ridge (SW Ridge). 5.11 R/X, A2, M6; 58 pitches, 2256m. 2004-01-01First ascentJosh Wharton & Kelly Cordes, 2004.
West summit, NW face
The Ukrainian Route. nccs VI 5.11 A4; 1950m. 2003-01-01First ascentLavrinenko, Mogila, Yarechevsky & Zhilin, 2003.
Parallelniy Mir. Rock, nccs VI+ 6b A3/Rus 6B; 1100m. 2011-08-28First ascentMarina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok & Anna Yasinskaya, 2011-08-28.
Lost Butterfly. nccs VII 5.10 A4+. 1999-01-01First ascentBerecz, Nadaski & Tivadar, 1999.
Parallel Worlds. nccs VII 5.11 A4; 1828m, 46 pitches. 1999-08-01First ascentMark Synnott, Alex Lowe, Jared Ogden, Darren Britto, Greg Thomas, Jim Suretto & Mike Graber, 1999-08-01.
Russian Direct (Russian route). Rus 6B/nccs VII 5.11 A4; 2675m, 66 pitches. 1999-08-10First ascentYuri Koshelenko, Alexander Odintsov, Igor Potankin & Ivan Samiolenko, 1999-08-10.
East summit, East Face
Norwegian Buttress (NE Pillar). nccs VII 5.10+ A4; 6b,A4. 1984-01-01First ascentHans Christian Doseth & Finn Dæhli, 1984.
The first ascent in 1984 was a groundbreaking Himalayan climb, one of the first grade VII big wall climbs. Stein Aasheim, Finn Daehli, Hans Christian Doseth, and Dag Kolsrud spent three weeks climbing the initial two-thirds of the face. Aasheim and Kolsrud descended and Daehli and Doseth pushed on to the East summit. During the descent, both fell to their deaths.
The Grand Voyage. nccs VII 5.10 A4+ WI3; 1340m. 1992-01-01First ascentXaver Bongard & John Middendorf, 1992.
Trango Pulpit6050
1900-01-01
Event
NE face
Norwegian route. nccs VII A4 5.11; 2200m, 48 pitches, 38 days. 1999-01-01First ascentRobert Caspersen, Gunnar Karlsen, Per L. Skjerven & Einar Wold, 1999.
SE ridge
More Czech Less Slovak. VII,A2. 1999-01-01First ascentvo Wondracek, Tomas Rinn, Pavel Weisser, Jaro Dutka & Michal Drasar, 1999.
Muztagh Tower group
Muztagh group
Muztagh Tower35.82833333376.3608333337284
  • Muztagh Tower East (7284m35.82833333376.360833333)
  • Muztagh Tower West (7280m)
1956-07-01
Muztagh Tower, ,
First ascent
Guido Magnone, Robert Paragot, Andre Contamine & Paul Keller
NE Wall
The most impressive side of the peak.
Russian route (Central Northeast Face). ED; 6a,A2, M6; 2200m, 17 days. 2012-08-25First ascentSergei Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko & Alexander Lange, 2012-08-25.
Nominated for Pioled d'Or.
NE Wall. 2200m. 2008-08-24First ascentPavle Kozjek & Dejan Miškovič, 2008-08-24.
The FA party decided not to go to the summit because of strong wind. Just after they started descending, Kozjek fell to his death.
SE ridge
SE ridge. 1956-01-01First ascentGuido Magnone, Robert Paragot, Andre Contamine & Paul Keller, 1956.
The French gained the crest of the South East Ridge via southern slopes in the col between Muztagh Tower and Black Tooth (6719m).
    NW Ridge
    NW Ridge. 1956-01-01First ascentJohn Hartog, Ian McNaught-Davis, Joe Brown & Tom Patey, 1956.
    Normal route. Ridge leads to West summits, from where 300m. knife-edged ridge leads to main summit. Of first ascent party John Hartog and Tom Patey continued to main summit.
    Lobsang group
    Biale Kangri35.80333333376.2383333336772
    1977-07-22
    Biale Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Lobsang Spire5707
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • Child, Greg: Thin Air, 2 Reprint Edition edition. Isbn: 9780898865882. The Mountaineers Books, 1988.

    Northern Baltoro Muztagh

    Northernmost part of Baltoro Muztagh located between Trango group in the west and Gasherbrum group in the east. The group contains several high peaks, yet it is completely dominated by K2, which is the only peak in the area that gets regularly climbed. The peaks are almost always climbed from Godwin-Austen glacier or one of its tribunaries. The areas located on the north side of Baltoro Muztagh main chain are very remote and get visited very seldom. The access is trough China and involves major logistical challenges. Only North side of K2 gets occasionally climbed.

    • Kielkowski, Jan: K2 and Northern Baltoro Mustagh. Isbn: 8386054956. Explo Publishers, 1998.
    Chongtar group

    Group located between Sarpo Laggo glacier in the west and Qoqori glacier in the east. Chongtar group is north-south chain just north of Skil Brum and west of Savoia Pass (6258m). The highest peak is in the souther part of the group, not far from Savoia pass. All other aspects of the group require approach from the Chinese side; from Sarpo Laggo glacier on the west side and Qoqori glacier on the east side. Not much information about climbing is available.

    Skil Brum

    North-South chain between Muztagh Tower group in the west and Savoia and Godwin Austen glaciers (K2) in the east. The group has three main ridges: NW ridge connects Skil Brum with Savoia Pass (6258m) and K2, west ridge leads to Moni Pass and Muztagh Tower and south ridge leads to Concordia. Despite the peaks being high, they are overshadowed by neighboring Trango group and Muztagh Tower in the West and K2 in the east.

    K2 group

    K2 group really consists just of one mountain, although there are few other summits on the ridges. The peaks has classic pyramid shape with six main ridges:

    • NE ridge to Skyang La. There are several towers along the ridge: Shanjian 2, Shanjian 1 (7187m) and Xiafong (6845m) names on a Chinese map.
    • SE ridge (Abruzzi ridge) with Shoulder Peak (7722m)
    • SW ridge (SSW ridge, South ridge) to Negrotto pass and Angelus Peak (6802m)
    • West ridge
    • NW ridge to Savoia la (6258). 4km with 23000m altitude gain
    • North ridge to Qogori glacier. The ridge split the north side into narrow NW face and wide N(E) faces.
    Skyang Kangri group

    Skyang Kangri has three main peaks located on the Baltoro main ridge. There are additionally three separate ridge systems generally towards north. Alöö three groups have peaks above 600 and generally next to nothing is known about the climbing. Most of the peaks, including the highest, don't even have names.

    Baltoro main chain extends from Skyang SW La over Skyang Kangri III, II and I to Skyang La (Windy Gap, 5925m). Skyang Kangri I and II are connected by high ridge with no distinct col. III on the other hand is significantly more independent being separated from II by7038m col.

    West Skyang Peaks is the smallest of three ridge systems. It branches off the main chain a south of Skyang Kangri III. The highest peaks of the group is P.6639 which is also one of the very few peaks on all of Skyang Kangru group that has been climbed.

    North Skyang Kangri peaks are located on a ridge running north from Skyang Kangri I. Several peaks rise to above 6000m.

    East ridge of Skyang Kangri I connects with another north south ridge with several side ridges. The group is known as East Skyang peaks. The group is significantly larges and more complex than the other two Skyand side ridges. The peaks are of similar height than the others, with P.6436 being the highest. The area is the least explored of the little explored groups. No ascents or attempts are known.

    Skilbrum group
    Skilbrum (Skil Brum)35.85083333376.4291666677410
    1957-06-19
    Skilbrum, ,
    First ascent
    Marcus Schmuck & Fritz Wintersteller
    East side
    East side. Rock, 53h. 1957-06-19First ascentMarcus Schmuck & Fritz Wintersteller, 1957-06-19.
    The FA party followed their ascent of Broad Peak with pure alpine style ascent on 53 hours. Apparently they were decades ahead when it comes to climbing style.
    K2 group
    K2 (Chogori, Qogori Feng)35.88083333376.5133333338611

    K2, the second highest mountain in the world (and possibly the most difficult one of the 8000m peaks), is located in Karakoram range and it rises above Godwi-Austen Glacier. It rises 549 meters higher than the peaks surrounding it. This exposure together with its northernly location (35° northern latitude) subjects the mountain to exceptionally harsh weather.

    The easiest routes are on SE (Abruzzi) ridge, which is also by far the most popular side of the peak. West side climbs are reached from Savoia glacier (mostly same approach as to Dogwin-Austen glacier below east side). North side climbs are approached from Chinese Shaksgam valley and sees very few visitors.

    Because of its majestic shape and fearsome reputation, K2 is features in climbing related movies "K2" and "Vertical Limit". The latter was filmed in New Zealand's Southern Alps (Camera flies by the NZ Classic SE Ridge of Mt.Aspiring during the end credits).

    1856-01-01
    K2, ,
    Found
    K2 was found by Europeans as late as 1856 as Captain T.G. Montgomerie surveyed it from a distance of roughly 200 kilometers. He gave the mountain a provisory name of K2, where letter K indicates Karakoram and number 2 is reference number. The mountain is also known as Chogori (or Qogir) and Mount Godwin-Austen (after Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, first Surveyor-General of the Survey of India).
    1902-01-01
    K2, ,
    Event
    First attemp was made in 1902 by a party lead by Oscar Eckenstein. They reached altitude of 6524 meters on NE-ridge. The most feasible route was found 1909 by the Duke of the Abruzzi's expedition on SE-ridge, which is now known as Abruzzi Ridge. In 1953 a seven man team led by Charles S. Houston reached 7500 m, but was forced to turn back due bad weather and Thrombosis of Art Gilkey. While lowering Gilkey, the multiple fall dragged five members of the team toward a precipice, but Pete Schoening managed to stop the fall by ice axe belay. Gilkey however went missing during the fall.
    1978-01-01
    K2, ,
    Event
    Firts ascent without bottled oxygen took place in 1978 by Americans John Roskelley and Rick Ridgeway. They summited together with fellow Americans Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt via NE Ridge.
    1986-01-01
    K2, ,
    Event
    First female ascents were made in 1986 by Wanda Rutkiewicz (Poland), Lilianne Barrard (France) and Julie Tullis (UK) via Abruzzi Ridge. Tullish perished in storm while still high on the mountain.
    1986-01-01
    K2, ,
    Ascent
    Benoit Chamoux (France) ascended Abruzzi Ridge in 1986 from ABC to summit in just 22,5 hours only few days after soloing Broad Peak in 16 hours.
    • Houston, Charles; Bates, Robert H. & Bates, Robert: K2, the Savage Mountain. Isbn: 1585740136. Lyons Press, 2000.
    • Lacedelli, Lino & Cenacchi, Giovanni: K2 - The Price of Conquest. Isbn: 9781594850301. Mountaineers Books, 2006.
    • Jordan, Jennifer: Savage Summit - The Life and Death of the First Women of K2. Isbn: 9780060587161. Harper Paperbacks, 2006.
    • Curran, Jim: K2 - Triumph and Tragedy. Isbn: 9780395485903. Mariner Books, 1989.
    • Child, Greg: Mixed Emotions. Isbn: 9780898863635. The Mountaineers, 1993.
    • Zuckerman, Peter & Padoan, Amanda: Buried in the Sky - The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day, 1 Edition edition. Isbn: 9780393345414. W. W. Norton & Company, 2013.
    • Diemberger, Kurt: The Endless Knot - K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny. Isbn: 9780898863000. Mountaineers Books, 1991.
    • Diemberger, Kurt: K2 - Traum Und Schicksal. Isbn: 9783492405294. Piper Verlag Gmbh, 2013.
    • Mantovani, Roberto: K2 - Challenging the Sky. Isbn: 9780831710729. Smithmark Pub, 1995.
    • Tullis, Julie: Clouds From Both Sides. Isbn: 9780586067659. Grafton Books, 1987.
    • O'brien, Damien: The Time Has Come - Ger Mcdonnell - His Life & His Death on K2. Isbn: 9781848891432. Collins Pr, 2012.
    • Bowley, Graham: No Way Down - Life and Death on K2. Isbn: 9780061834790. Harpercollins, 2011.
    • Viesturs, Ed: K2 - Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain, 1 Reprint Edition edition. Isbn: 9780767932608. Broadway Books, 2010.
    • Wilkinson, Freddie: One Mountain Thousand Summits - The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2, Paperback Edition edition. Isbn: 9780451233318. New American Library, 2011.
    • Rooijen, Wilco van & Thurman, Roger: K2 Surviving Three Days in the Death Zone, 1th Edition Edition edition. Isbn: 9789089270467. G+J Publishing CV, 2010.
    • Falvey, Pat & Pemba, Sherpa Gyalje: The Summit - How Triumph Turned to Tragedy on K2's Deadliest Days. Isbn: 9781847176431. O'brien Press Ltd, 2013.
    North side
    Long and prominent North ridge divides the north side into narrow NW face and wide N(E) faces. No routes exist on the latter proper, although at least NE ridge has been attempted from the north side.
    NW face (NW face & North ridge). 1990-01-01First ascentH. Imamura & H. Nazuka, 1990.
    Joins the north ridge for the upper part of the climb.
    • Kielkowski #4
    North Ridge (Japanese Route). Rus 6B; V, 50-60°; 4800m. 1982-08-14First ascentNakoe Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino & Yukihiro Yanagisawa, 1982-08-14.
    Very long ridge primarily on ice.
    East face
    9km wide face framed by SE and NE ridges.
    NE ridge. V, 50-70°. 1978-01-01First ascentLouis Reichardt, Jim Wickwire, John Roskelley & Rick Ridgeway, 1978.
    Long and heavily corniced ridge.
    • Ridgeway, Rick: The Last Step - The American Ascent of K2. Isbn: 9780898866322. Mountaineers Books, 1999.
    • Whittaker, Jim: A Life on the Edge - Memoirs of Everest and Beyond. Isbn: 9780898867541. Mountaineers Books, 2000.
    • Wickwire, Jim: Addicted to Danger - Affirming Life in the Face of Death. Isbn: 9780671019914. Atria Books, 1999.
    • Roskelley, John: Stories Off the Wall, Reprint edition. Isbn: 9780898866094. Mountaineers Books, 1998.
    South side
    South side is accessible from the base camp on Godwin-Austen glacier. The face is frames by SW face (Magic Line) rising from Angelus peak on the left and SE ridge (Abruzzi ridge) on the right. Along the latter goes Abruzzi ridge, which, together with Basque and Ceser routes joining it, is the easiest route and by far the most climbed one.
    Magic Line (SW Ridge, SSW Buttress). Rus 6B; IV-V, 60°; 3500m. 1986-08-03First ascentPeter Bozek, Przemyslaw Piasecki & Wojiech Wroz, 1986-08-03.
    Exceptionally hard, characterised as "suicidal" by Reinhold Messner.
    South Face (Polish route). IV-V+. 1986-01-01First ascentJerzy Kukuczka & Tadeusz Piotrowski, 1986.
    Extreme serac and avalanche avalanche danger. Climbs the prominent curved gully (the "Hockey Stick").
    • Kielkowski #13
    SSE Spur (SE Spur, Cesen Route, Basque Route). III-IV, 75°. 1994-01-01First ascentDe Pablo, Iñurrategi, Iñurrategi, Oiarzabal & Tómas, 1994.
    Spur joining Abruzzi ridge at the Shoulder (7722m, camp 3). Considered easier than the traditional Abruzzi ridge and also safer. The route was pioneered by expedition led by Doud Scott in 1983, but the abandoned their attempt few meters below the Shoulder due to fatal accident. Tomo Cesen soloed the route to the Shoulder, but did not summit. The first party that summited along this route was the Basque one in 1994.
    • Kielkowski #10
    Abruzzi Ridge (Abruzzi-Sporn, ESE Ridge). III, 50°. 1954-07-31First ascentAchille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli. They were members of large Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio. Nine camps were established during the ascent., 1954-07-31.
    Normal route. Most popular route. Base camp at 5130m in the junction of Godwin-Austen and Filippi glaciers and Advanced Base Camp at 5400m. Camp 1 at 6050m, Camp 2 at 6750m, Camp 3 at 7200m (The Shoulder) and Camp 4 on the Shoulder at 7600-8000m. Most difficult sections are off-width chimney below Camp2 ("House's Chimney") and "Black Pyramid" between Camps 2 and 3. The last major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as the "Bottleneck", which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of seracs which form an ice cliff to the east of the summit.
    • Kielkowski #9
    West side
    NW Ridge. III-IV. 1991-01-01First ascentChristophe Profit & Pierre Béghin, 1991.
    Starts from Savoia glacier, then briefly follows NW ridge before venturing to NW face and finally north ridge. Not a lot of new ground compared to Japanese NW face route except for the lower part.
    • Kielkowski #3
    Russian Direct (West face). Rus 6B. 2007-08-21First ascentAndrey Mariev & Vadim Popovich, 2007-08-21.
    West Ridge. IV, 55°. 1981-08-07First ascentEiho Ohtami & Sabir Nazir, 1981-08-07.
    • Kielkowski #15
    Angelus35.84916666776.4916666676802
    1983-08-09
    Angelus, ,
    First ascent
    Party from F/CH
    Chongtar group
    Chongtar Kangri I (Chongtar, Zhonghujiang)35.91166666776.4291666677313
    1994-09-08
    Chongtar Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Aus/NZ
    Skyang Kangri group
    Skyang Kangri (Staircase Peak)35.92666666776.56757544
    • Skyang Kangri I (Skyang Kangri East, Skyang Kangri Main) (7544m35.92666666776.5675)
    • Skyang Kangri II (Skyang Kangri West, Skyang Kangri SW) (7512m)
    • Skyang Kangri III (Skyang Kangri NW) (7174m)
    Despite it being very high peak, it suffers from being squeezed into middle of even higher and a lot more famous neighbors. The peaks has been climbed only once and attempted twice more.
    1976-08-11
    Skyang Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    Y. Fujihji & H. Nagata
    1980-01-01
    Skyang Kangri, ,
    Event
    Jeff Lowe & Michael Kennedy attempted West face unsuccessfully
    SE ridge (East ridge)
    SE ridge. 1976-01-01First ascentY Fujihji & H. Nagata, 1976.
    SW flank (West face)
    Jeff Lowe & Michael Kennedy attempted West face unsuccessfully

    Eastern Baltoro Muztagh

    Broad Peak Group

    Broad Peak is not so much a group, rather than a massive single mountain with few side summits. The peaks sits on Baltoro main chain and consists just two main ridges: NE ridge over North peak to Sella Pass and S(W) ridge towards Gaherbrum IV (becomes NW ridge of GIV). Furthermore there's a short side ridge running north-south to the west of Broad Peak between it and Godwin-Austen glacier.

    Gasherbrum Group

    Gasherbrum is a remote group of peaks located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya on the border of the Chinese Shaksgam Valley and the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan. The massif contains two or three of the world's 8000m peaks depending on whether Broad Peak is considered part of Northern Baltoro Muztagh or Gasherbrum group. Despite the presence of lot-hyper 8000m peaks in the group, the most striking and also alpinistically most important peak is Gasherbrum IV that misses the magic mark by some meters.

    Severeal ascents that have pushed the boundaries of what is possible in alpine style have occurred on Broad Peak and Gasherbroum group. Of particular importance are 1957 the first ascent of Broad Peak, 1975 three-day climb in pure alpine style by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 1984 enchainment of Gasherbrum I and II by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander and 1985 first ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV by Robert Schauer and Wojciech Kurtyka (not to summit).

    Sia group

    Separated from Gasherbrum group by col SE of Urdok II. East ridge leads first to Indira col and further to Turkestan col, which separates it from Siachen Muztagh. South ridge leads to Sia La, which separates the group from Saltoro Mountains.

    Broad Peak Group
    Broad Peak North35.83361111176.5594444447490
    1983-06-28
    Broad Peak North, North buttress,
    First ascent
    North buttress: Renato Casarotto
    North face
    North buttress. V. 1983-06-28First ascentRenato Casarotto, 1983-06-28.
    • Eastern Baltoro Muztagh #16
    Broad Peak (Faichan Kangri, Falchan Kangri)35.81083333376.5683333338047
    • Central Peak (8016m)
    • Main Peak (8047m35.81083333376.568333333)
    • SW Peak (7721m)
    There has been some debate whether or not the Central Summit should be considered independent mountain and thus the 15th 8000m summit. However, the same debate has been made concerning other subsidiary summits, especially Yalung Kang on Kanchenjunga and Lhotse Shar on Lhotse.
    1957-06-09
    Broad Peak, ,
    First ascent
    Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl, Markus Schmock & Fritz Wintersteller in 1957 via West Spur. Neither supplemental oxygen nor high-altitude porters were used.
    1983-01-01
    Broad Peak, ,
    Event
    Krystyna Palmowska
    1984-01-01
    Broad Peak, ,
    Ascent
    Kryztof Wielicki (Poland) summited in 16 hours from base camp in 1984 and Benoit Chamoux likewise in 16 hours in 1986.
    NW side
    Alpine style traverse of three main peaks by Kurtyka & Jerzy Kukuczka in 1984 was a very significant achievement.
    NW Ridge Integral. IV, 85°. 1984-07-16First ascentWojciech Kurtyka & Jerzy Kukuczka alpine style, 1984-07-16.
    Starting from along North face of the North Peak to North Broad Col (7278m), from there traverse over Shoulder (7800m) and Broad Peak Central summit to Broad Col (7800m), from there along the normal route (North ridge) of Broad Peak Main to summit.
    West side
    SW Spur to SE Ridge on the other side of the West face presents logical and elegant line that awaits its first ascent.
    West Spur. AD; 60°; Normally three high camps. 1957-01-01First ascentKurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl, Markus Schmock & Fritz Wintersteller, 1957.
    Normal route. Route follows West Ridge directly to the col between Main and Central summits (7800m). Considered one of the safest routes on 8000m peaks. From the base camp at 4850m. Way to camp 1 has slopes of 40°. On the way to camp 2 (6250m) some technical rocky steps has to be overcome. Camp 3 is placed around 7000m and on the way there, snow/ice slopes of 60° are to be climbed. Summit day takes 10-14h (in ascent only) along the slopes of 30-50°.
    • Eastern Baltoro Muztagh #3
    SW face. 2005-01-01First ascentSamoilov & Denis Urubko, 2005.
    Gasherbrum Group
    GIV group
    Gasherbrum IV35.762576.6166666677925
    • Gasherbrum IV (7925m35.762576.616666667)
    • Gasherbrum IV North (7900m)
    Not the highest of Gashebroum peaks but alpinistically most important. All routes on the mountain are difficult, the easiest one being either NE or NW ridge, both of which are nevertheless quite technical multi-day undertakings. The most dramatic feature is the gigantic West face.
    1958-08-06
    Gasherbrum IV, ,
    First ascent
    Walter Bonatti & Carlo Mauri. They were members of Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin.
    • Maraini, Fosco: Karakoram. Isbn: 9780670411641. Penguin Group (USA) Incorporated, 1961.
    • Fanshawe, Andy & Venables, Stephen: Himalaya Alpine Style - The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks. Isbn: 9780898864564. Mountaineers Books, 1996.
    • Child, Greg: Thin Air, 2 Reprint Edition edition. Isbn: 9780898865882. The Mountaineers Books, 1988.
    South side
    NE Ridge (Italian route). D+; IV-V; 2800m. 1958-08-06First ascentWalter Bonatti & Carlo Mauri. They were members of Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin., 1958-08-06.
    Normal route. South Gasherbrum glacier to NE col and from there along the ridge via North summit to main summit.
    • East Baltoro Muztagh #23
    West Face (Shining Wall)
    NW Ridge (American route). V, 65; 2500m. 1986-06-22First ascentGreg Child, Tim Macartney-Snape & Tom Hargis, 1986-06-22.
    From NW col via North summit.
    Central Spur. 5.10,A3/V+,A3, 70-80°; 2500m. 1997-07-18First ascentBang Jung-ho, Kim Tong-kwan & Yoo Huk-jae, 1997-07-18.
    • East Baltoro Muztagh #28
    West Face (Shining Wall, Kurtyka-Schauer). ED+; VII/AI3 M4?, V; 2500m. 1985-07-20First ascentWojciech Kurtyka & Robert Schauer. Bad weather and extreme exhaustion forced them to stop at the north summit, missing the true summit, 1985-07-20.
    Gasherbrum V35.72916666776.6133333337133
    • Gasherbrum V (7133m35.72916666776.613333333)
    • Gasherbrum V East I (7120m)
    • Gasherbrum V East II (7050m)
    • Gasherbrum V East (Gasherbrum V East III) (7006m)
    1900-01-01
    Event
    East side
    East rib. 1000m. 1978-08-01First ascentK. Mukaide, M. Sakaguchi & T. Sato to East III, 1978-08-01.
    • East Baltoro Muztagh #32
    South side
    Nak-jong Seong & Chi-young Ahn. 2014-07-25First ascentNak-jong Seong & Chi-young Ahn, 2014-07-25.
    Gasherbrum VI (Chochordin)35.70833333376.6308333336979
    • East Baltoro Muztagh pp.87-90
    GII-GI
    Gasherbrum III35.75944444476.6419444447946
    High peak but not particularly independent one, as it is separated from Gasherbrum II by col at 7550 and only short distance. All ascents have followed normal route of Gasherbrukm II until ~7350, then traversed below its summit pyramid to gain the col.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South side
    Polish route. Rus 6A. 1987-08-11First ascentAlison Chadwick, Janusz Onyskiewicz, Wanda Rutkeiwicz & Krzysztof Zdizitowiecki, 1987-08-11.
    Normal route. Follows Austrian 1956 on SW ridge of Gasherbrum II until Camp 4 (c7300m), then traverses north across the west flank to reach a high col/cwm between the two mountains (7591m). From there it climbs South East Face of III via a prominent snow couloir.
    Gasherbrum II (K4)35.757576.6541666678035
    • Gasherbrum II (8035m35.757576.654166667)
    • Gasherbrum II East (7772m)
    Reputedly the easiest and the safest of Karakoram 8000m peaks and one of the easier 8000m peaks. Gasherbrum II is the most popular of high peaks in Pakistan. Virtually all ascents are undertaken from the south side above Gasherbrum glacier.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North side
    East ridge (SE ridge)
    South side
    Most routes are climbed from this side. Western routes are gained by climbing most of the Austrian route, then traversing below the summit pyramid to gain col between Gasherbrum II and III.
    Austrian route (SW Ridge and East Ridge). AD/Rus 6A; II, 60°; Summit days from Camp 3 is usually 8-10h in ascent and 4-6h in descent. 1956-07-07First ascentSepp Larch, Fritz Moravec & Hans Willenpart, 1956-07-07.
    Normal route. Follows SW ridge until 7400m (rarely used Camp 4), then traverses to East Ridge which is gained at 7750m and follows it to summit.
    Gasherbrum II East35.75583333376.6655555567758
    1983-06-24
    Gasherbrum II East, ,
    First ascent
    Jerzy Kukuczka & Wojciech Kurtyka
    Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)35.72416666776.6966666678068
    • Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (8068m35.72416666776.696666667)
    • Hidden Sud (Gasherbrum South) (7069m)
    Gasherbrum I is relatively often climbed (or tried to, anyway) in double pack with easier Gasherbrum II.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SE ridge
    American route (Southeast Ridge and Urdok-Kamm, IHE Spur). 1958-07-05First ascentPete Schoening & Andy Kauffman, 1958-07-05.
    Located on the border between Pakistan and India. Due to political situation, not possible anymore.
    • Eastern Baltoro Muztagh #62
    SW face
    West ridge (SW ridge, Yugoslav route). 1977-06-08First ascentStremfelj & Zaplotnik, 1977-06-08.
    • Eastern Baltoro Muztagh #62
    Russian route. ED; WI4 M5/80°; 2300m. 2008-01-01First ascentViktor Afanasiev & Valery Babanov, 2008.
    SW face. 1983-01-01First ascentJerzy Kukuczka & Wojciech Kurtyka, 1983.
    NW side
    There are several possibilities to overcome the rocky shoulder above Gasherbrum La (6500m) and below Camp 3 (7050m, 3-4h) above the rocky part. Most common route is Japanese couloir, with other options being 1982 German Route, 1983 Swiss Route (Loretan & Ruedi and 1975 Habeler-Messner Route. Perhaps the most obvious route would be North ridge directly from Gasherbrum La.
    Japanese Couloir. 60°, III. 1986-08-02First ascentO. Shimizu & K. Wakutsu, 1986-08-02.
    Normal route. From the northern side. Base camp and Camp1 at 5900m common with the normal route of Gasherbrum II. Camp 2 on Gasherbrum La (6500m). From there Japanese Couloir on NW side (45-50°) and steep snow (up to 55°) to summit. Camp 3 on above the couloir (7100m).
    • Eastern Baltoro Muztagh #75
    Urdok group
    Urdok Kangri I (Urdog, Urdok)35.70416666776.7291666677250
    1975-08-04
    Urdok Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    K. Hub, Robert Schauer, H. Schell, L. Schell & H. Zefferer
    • Eastern Baltoro Muztagh pp.143-146
    Sia group
    Sia Kangri I (Queen mary Peak)35.66333333376.76257422
    1934-08-12
    Sia Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    Hans Ertl & Albert Höcht via SW side
    Mount Hardinge (Sia Kangri II)35.632576.7891666677075
    1979-07-08
    Mount Hardinge, ,
    First ascent
    K. Matsubayashi & Y. Mitamura

    Rakaposhi-Haramosh

    Rakaposhi-Haramosh is located in Gilgit district in the SW corner of Karakoram. The area has huge glaciers and peaks have huge prominence as they rise over relatively low valleys. Hunza valley is the most visited part of this range.

    Rakaposhi-Bagrot group

    Western end on Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain. Rakaposhi is highly commanding presence rising stupendously above the low valleys of Hunza and Nalgar and easily visible to Karakoram Highway. North face ranks among the highest faces in the world. Diran is the other major peak of the group.

    Malubiting group

    Central peaks on Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain. Besides several Malubiting summits, the main peak of the group is Laila Peak. Laila peak of Rakaposhi-Haramosh group is not to be mixed with lower but a lot more famous peak located in Garherbrum range. Malubiting group is located very close to Spantik on Spantik-Sosbun chain, separated from it by Polan la (5629m). Malubiting has several summits, the highest one is West summit. Of other Malubiting summits North and South/East summits are fairly independent, Central much less so.

    Haramosh group

    SE end of Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain. Haramosh peaks are separated by the rest of Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain by Haramosh Pass (5100m), that connects Mani and Chogo Lungma glaciers.

    Rakaposhi-Bagrot group
    Rakaposhi36.142574.4908333337788
    • Rakaposhi (Pk 27, Dumani) (7788m36.142574.490833333)
    • Rakaposhi East (7010m)
    Climbing Rakaposhi is no easy feat from any direction. Western routes are very long, northern routes are very high and technically difficult, and southern and eastern routes are plain dangerous due to extreme avalanche risk. The peas lies on Rakaposhi-Haramosh main chain NW ridge and East ridges are part of the main chain. The north face is very complex face with three major spurs which divide the face into fours sections. SW ridge of main summit runs at first to Monk's Head (6340m). Further away the ridge system runs far and branches into multiple ridges. Another major ridge system branches of from SW ridge close to summit.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North side
    Rises 5800 meters in only 11,5km from the Hunza River. The face is complex with three major ridges between NW and East ridges: NW Spur between Masot & Ghulmit glaciers, North spur between Ghulmit and Pisan glaciers and Noorth ridge from Rakaposhi East between Pisan and Minapin glaciers. North Spur had been attempted by Karl Herrligkofer twice before the first ascent. NW spur is 4000m high and ranks among the biggest unclimbed lines.
    NW spur. 4000m.
    Between the Masot and Gulmit glaciers. It remains unclimbed today and is one of the Karakoram's big unclimbed objectives.
    North Spur (Japanese Spur). VI,A2/5.8,A2. 1979-01-01First ascentEiho Ohtani & Matsushi Yamashita., 1979.
    Shorter than NW ridge, but much more technically difficult. The route was repeated by Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond and Kevin Doyle on 1984. All three were knocked unconscious at least twice by lightning, needing to be revived by the other two. The Canadians called this route the 'Cassin Ridge of the Karakoram'.
    East ridge to Rakaposhi East. 5.10,A2. 1985-01-01First ascentAustrian expedition led by Edi Koblmüller, 1985.
    From Pisan glacier.
    East side
    Bagrot glacier is a narrow glacier between the ridge from Rakaposhi Main to Rakaposhi East and long and complex south ridge branching off from SW ridge not very far from the summit. The face has been attempted in 2000 and was found to have considerable objective dangers with dangerous seracs and high avalanche risk.
    West side
    NW ridge is 10km long ridge via Nun's Head and Second Peak. SW spur is joins much longer and more complex ridge system (SW ridge) at Monk's head, not very far from the summit.
    NW ridge. 1979-01-01First ascentPolish-Pakistani expedition, 1979.
    From the Biro Glacier. Long, and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge but easier than the routes on the north face. The ridge is gained between the Nun's Head and Second Peak.
    SW Spur. 50-60°. 1958-06-25First ascentMike Banks & Tom Patey, 1958-06-25.
    Normal route. Long, but not exceedingly technical. From between the Kunti glacier the route ascends via the Monk's Head (6340m) where the SW spur connects with the SW ridge. The steepest section is a 600m 50-60° ice slope leading to the Monks Head.
    Diran (Minapin peak, Minapin)36.1274.6616666677266
    Considered to be the second easiest 7000m peak in the Karakoram after Spantik. The peak is located on Rakaposhi-Haramosh main chain which forms NW and S(E) ridges of Diran. Additionally Diran has N(E) ridge to Sumayar Peak (5598) and SW ridge towards Diran village with no major summits. Aside of those main ridges, much shorter East ridge rises from Kape glacier (a side glacier of Barpu glacier).
    1968-08-17
    Diran, ,
    First ascent
    Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger & Hanns Schell
    North face
    North face. 1968-01-01First ascentRainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger & Hanns Schell, 1968.
    Normal route. The route apparently follows much of the upper NW ridge rather than climbing the face direct.
    NE ridge
    From 5020m col between Diran and Sumayar Peak.
    NE ridge.
    SW face
    The face rises above Upper Hinauche glacier, which eastern branch of upper Bagrot glacier.
    South face.
    This face is little more difficult than north face, yet safer for snow and ice avalanches.
    Malubiting group
    Malubiting36.00333333374.8758333337458
    • Juto Sar (6785m)
    • Malubiting (Peak 46, Malubiting West, Malubiting I) (7458m36.00333333374.875833333)
    • Malubiting Central (Malubiting III) (7291m)
    • Malubiting North (Malubiting NW, Malubiting II) (7200m)
    • Malubiting East (Malubiting SE) (6970m)
    Multi-summited Malubiting is located on Rakaposhi-Haramosh main chain. Malubiting has several summits, the highest one is West summit. Of other Malubiting summits North and South/East summits are fairly independent, Central much less so. NW and SE ridges are formed by the main chain. Prominent SW ridge from Malubiting main summit. Tho ridges towards NE. More prominent of these is the one rising from Polan la (5629m) separating Malubiting from Spantik over Malubiting North to plateau between Malubiting West and Central. The other NE ridge drops from Malubiting East summit. Most on the climbs have loosely followed NE ridge from Polan la.
    1971-08-23
    Malubiting, ,
    First ascent
    Party from A
    East side
    Most parties attempting Malubiting approach through Chogolungma glacier to Spantik base camp, from where it is possible to gain Poilar la at the foot of NE ridge. The ridge leads over Malubiting North to plateau between Main (West) and Central summits).
    NE ridge. 1971-08-23First ascentK. Pirker, H. Schell, H. Schindlbacher & H. Sturm, 1971-08-23.
    Via the Northeast Ridge, ascending the North Peak and skirting the Central Peak on the way. The route were climbed until North summit by Polish expedition in 1969.
    Laila Peak35.95666666774.96256985
    Significantly higher but less known than than 6096m high well recognisable peak in Hushe region. Located in Rajaposhi-Haramosh chain where is makes very sharp Z-shaped twists before dropping to Haramosh La (5200m). West ridge connect Laila to Rapaoshi-Haramosh chain, which makes a very sharp turn forming both NW ad SW ridges of the peak. NE ridge consists of Akbar Gang and Cathedral. SE and South ridges are a lot shorter rising from Haramosh glacier.
    1975-08-09
    Laila Peak, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    • +Belles, pp99
    SE face
    SE face. 1979-08-09First ascentRyuichi Babaguchi & Kohzo Sakai, 1979-08-09.
    Malubiting SE35.99333333374.8991666676970
    1959-08-02
    Malubiting SE, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK/Pak
    Malubiting North East6843
    1969-10-08
    Malubiting North East, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Pl
    Haramosh group
    Haramosh (Haramosh Peak, Peak 58)35.8474.89757397
    • Haramosh (7397m35.8474.8975)
    • Haramosh Kutwal Laila
    1958-08-04
    Haramosh, ,
    First ascent
    Heini Roiss, Stephan Pauer & Dr. Franz Mandl
    NE side
    East ridge from Haramosh La is is 7km long and has Mani I (6650m), Thamani (6686m), Mani II (6522), Mani III (6450m) and Mani IV (6500m) along the way to the summit.
    East ridge. 1958-08-04First ascentHeini Roiss, Stephan Pauer & Dr. Franz Mandl, 1958-08-04.
    From Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) along the East Ridge over Mani.
    SW face
    SW face. V, 70°; 4 high camp. 1988-01-01First ascentPolish party, 1988.
    West ridge
    West ridge. 7 high camp. 1978-06-22First ascentJapanese party, 1978-06-22.
    Mani
    Located on NE ridge of Haramosh and climbed along the ascent of Haramosh NE ridge.
    Haramosh II6666
    Kupultung Kung (Paraber, Kupuhing)35.86491775.0565276321
    Highest peak on the next north-south chain east of Haramosh II - Haramosh I chain. Rakaposhi-Haramosh main chain forms SW and SE ridges of the peak. Additionally the peak has long NE ridge to Chogo Lungma glacier.
    Kapaltang Kung35.86436175.1204716220
    Highest peak on the cluster of peaks located east of Kupultung Kung and south of lower Chogo Lungma glacier. The peaks form three-branched ridge system located to the north of Rakaposhi-Haramosh main chain.

    Spantik-Sosbun

    The Spantik-Sosbun group is a subrange of the Karakoram in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. It forms the souther bank of both Hispar and Biafpo glaciers. On the southern side, the natural border is Chogo Lungma glacier system. The most famous and the highest peak is Spantik (7027m). Spantik is probably the easiest 7000m peak in Karakoram and correspondingly popular among the climbers. The other namesake peak is Sosbun Brakk (6413m).

    Chogo Lungma group

    Westernmost part of Spantik-Sosbun chain. Spantik is located close to Malubiting group of Rakaposhi-Haramosh chain, separated from it by Polan la (5629m). Spantik is reputed the easiest 7000m peak in Karakoram and correspondingly popular. The neighboring peaks on the other are very much overshadowed by Spantik and hand see very few climbers.

    Balchhish group

    The peaks form the southern bank of Hispar glacier. There are several low 6000ers, particularly in the western part of the chain, but well known climbing objectives.

    The most famous peaks of the group is likely Solu Towers, located on the eastern end of the chain, very close to Hispar La and Sosbun Brakk. There are four distinct peaks: Solu Peak (5901m), Solu Tower I (5979m), Unnamed and Solu Hidden Tower (ca 5850m). Solu Tower II (5959m) is not very independent, rather a shoulder on Solu Tower I.

    Sosbun group

    Sosbun group is located in the eastern part of Spantik-Sosbun chain, due south of Biafo glacier. The highest peak of the group is Sosbun Brakk which lies close to Solu Tower and not very far from Hispar La. Other than that the group has several low 6000ers and several 5000ers on the chain running south from Spantik_Sosbun chain, particularly Socun Tower and 9 Sosbun Spires. Most of the peaks are accessible either from Sokha glacier is NW or Sosbun glacier in SE. The former glacier is accessible a bit before reaching Arandu at the head of Chogo Lungma glacier or from Hispar glacier via Sokha La. The latter is accessible from the road to Askole or from Hispar glacier via Sokha La and Sosbun-Sokha La (5200m).

    South-easternmost part of Spantik-Sosbum chain consists of Ganchen and Meru (or Gama Sokha Lumbu) groups. The groups have several low 6000ers and several 5000ers.

    Group of nine spires to the west of Sosbun Brakk and Sosbun Tower. I is the one closest to Sosbun Tower.

    Chogolungma Group
    Spantik (Yengutz Har)36.05666666774.9658333337027
    Widely considered to be the easiest 7000m peak in Karakoram and correspondingly popular. The mountain is very popular with organised commercial expeditions, due to its relative ease of ascent and scarcity of objective dangers. The short 3 day approach trek across straightforward terrain also provides for easy access and gradual acclimatization. Standout feature of the mountain is a stunning Golden Pillar (NW face) climbed by Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders in 1987-08-11 (1100m up to Scottish 6).
    1955-07-05
    Spantik, ,
    First ascent
    Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt & Jochen Tietze
    SE Ridge
    SE ridge rises from Spantik base camp all the way to the summit. Base camp is located at 4800m at the junction of Chogo Lungma and Basin glaciers.
    SE Ridge. 40°; 2700m. 1955-01-01First ascentReiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt & Jochen Tietze, 1955.
    NW face
    British route climbs the very obvious pillar in the middle of the face. Russian route runs to the left of British route, never too far from it. Korean route climbs much less prominent spur somewhat to the right of British route.
    Russian route. Rus 6B/ED2; 7a,A3, 95°; 2000m. 2000-01-01First ascentMikhail Davy & Alexandre Klenov, 2000.
    Golden Pillar. Sco VI; 1100m, 40 pitches. 1987-08-11First ascentMick Fowler & Victor Saunders, 1987-08-11.
    Korean route. VI WI4 M8; 2300m. 2009-07-14First ascentKim Hyung-il, Kim Pal-bong & Min Jun-young, 2009-07-14.
    Makrong group
    Makrong Chhish36.08833275.1212016698
    The highest of the peaks immediately south of Hispar glacier. Located more or less opposite side of Hispar glacier to Kunyang Chhish peaks. No recorded ascents, the attempts have been made from the east side.
    Balchhish group
    Solu Hidden Tower5850
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Solu Tower (Solu Middle Tower)
    Venables and Tunstall climbed to Solu Tower II. Few weeks later Venables returned and soloed Solu Tower I.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    East side
    Tunstall-Venables. 1987-07-25First ascentDuncan Tunstall & Stephen Venables, 1987-07-25.
    Mixed route to lower Solu Tower II.
    Venables. 1987-08-24First ascentStephen Venables, 1987-08-24.
    FA of Solu Tower I.
    Sosbun group
    Sosbun Spire I5500
    Sosbun Tower6000
    Sosbun Brakk (Sosbun I)35.937575.56756413
    Main peaks of the eastern part of the group.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South side
    SW ridge. 1981-07-04First ascentHisao Hashimoto & Norichika Matsumoto via SW ridge, 1981-07-04.

    Mango Gusor

    Group of mountain south of Askole. The namesake and the highest peaks of the group is Mango Gusor (6288m). Not a lot information about climbing exists except for one report in AAJ (1975) about unsuccessful attempt.

    Shimshak

    Group located to the south of Mangu Sur and East of Skardu. Lower and far less glaciated as other parts of the range. The highest peak is Shimshak 5609.

    Masherbrum range

    The Masherbrum Mountains are located on the south side of the Baltoro Glacier. While not as famous as the Baltoro Muztagh, Masherbrum group attracts climbers from around the planet. Oh the other hand, the easternmost parts of the range are little known and little visited. No doubt the proximity to Siachen dispute has been a major factor for that.

    The highest peak of the range is its namesake Masherbrum. It has just three routes and a gigantic NE face which is highly coveted unclimbed objective. The other main peaks of the area are Chogolisa and K6. The latter is the highest of the peaks surrounding Charakusa valley. It has become popular as it has both wild rock towers in the lower valley as well as jaw-dropping alpine objectives of the upper valley, all accessible from a single base camp.

    Masherbrum group

    Masherbrum group forms a south-facing horseshoe around Masherbrum glacier with all the highest peaks of the group: Mandu Peak, Masherbrum and Yermanendu Kangri and Serac Peak. North side of Masherbrum towards Baltoro is even more impressive. NWE face of Masherbrum is one of the most coveted unclimbed lines, right up there with North ridge of Latok I. Described to be El Capitan on top of Denali. Further NW, Biarchedi Peaks, Nuating and Mitre are the main peaks which are significantly lower.

    Chogolisa group

    Large and complex group that consists of numerous connected ridge systems. The highest peak of the group is Chogolisa with Khumul Peaks, Tasa Brakk, Prupoo Brakka and Baltoro Kangri being the other main peaks.

    The western areas are most readily approached from Abruzzi and Vigne glaciers. Main climbing objectives are Chogolisa and pictoresque Laila Peak. Chogolisa group is probably the least visited part of Masherbrum range and that is particularly true to eastern areas, where Baltoro Kangri is the main peak. The reason for those areas seeing very little visitors has for long been the proximity to Siachen dispute. The eastern parts of Chogolisa are most conveniently accesses either from Kaberi or Kondus glacier depending on objective.

    Western chain

    Western North-South chain of peaks of Chogolisa group rising between Chongogoro glacier in the west and Chogolisa glacier in the east. The chain is joined by Chogolisa chain with a high ridge forming the upper end of Chogolisa glacier. The highest peak of the grouop is Trinity Peak (Tasa Burakha) with Drangra (6325) and Farorin (6294m) the other high peaks. However, surely the most famous peaks around is iconic Laila Peak.

    Khumul Gri

    Khumul Gri or Vigne peaks is a cluster of peaks located on the ridge leading north from Chogolisa towards Concordia. The group consists of main ridge running north-south over Khumul Gri VI, Khumul Gri V, Khumul Gri IV to I. Further south the ridge joins Chogolisa I. Khumul Gri II and III are located on a short side ridge towards west from Khumul Gri I.

    Information about the climbs is pretty much nonexistent. West face (facing Vigne glacier) is almost entirely made of ice and snow and appears to be fairly uniform an angle and devoid of major features (minor spurs exist though). The face is reasonably free of seracs so it appears possible, that reasonably safe routes could be put up on the face.

    Chogolisa group

    Not very clearly defined cluster of peaks between Chogolisa glacier in the west and Kaberi glacier (Kondus) in the east. The chain joins the peaks on the north side of lower Charakusa valley (Sulu, Beatrice, Nayser Brakk). Chogolisa consists of five ridges. NE ridge is farly short one, SE ridge is a bit longer and Ice Dome peak is located on the ridge, South ridge connects to Kaberi Peak and further peaks of Baltoro Kangri, SW ridge drop to Kaberi col (6500m) from where it continues to Prupuo Barakha, NW ridge connects Chogolisa with Khumul Gri (Vigne Peaks).

    Baltoro Kangri

    Baltoro Kangri is compact group of five peaks between Gasherbrum group on NE and Chogolisa group in SW. The group is connected with ridges to Chogolisa group and Sia Kangri, these ridges form the end of vast Baltoro glacier systems. The Baltoro Kangri group divides the upper part of the glacier into Abruzzi (northern branch) and North Chogolisa glaciers (south of Baltoro Kangri).

    Main ridge runs from Kondus saddle (6470m) in SW to Baltoro Kangri IV and V, from where it continues east to Conways Saddle (5973m) and Sia Kangri. The rest of the summits are located on a ridge NW from Baltoro Kangri IV over III, II and I. There are side ridges from each of the three summits and the ridge connecting the peaks to Baltoro Kangri IV divides into two branches NW of Baltoro Kangri I.

    East of Hushe

    Peaks to the east of Hushe valley. The main peak of the area is K6, with Link Sar and several high six thousanders near by. There is also several lower peaks with impressive vertical rock faces. The peaks are usually climbed from Nangma or Cjharakusa valleys, bot of which have become popular venues.

    Charakusa North

    NW-SE chain forming the northern border of Charakusa valley: Sulu - K7 West - K7 Central - K7 Main - Link Sar - Hassan. The chain makes a sharp turn at Link Sar and and joins K6 forming perfect horseshoe at the end of the valley.

    Farol is a ridge with four summits to the north of Charakusa. Most climbed aspect of the peaks is South (west) side towards Charakusa. The face has two prominent buttresses dropping from West and Central summits. East ridge with Farol Far East forms third spur. Between the spurs there are hanging glaciers. Farol Far East has very steep rocky south face that has been attempted at least twice, so far without success.

    K7 is located on the NW-SE chain from Farol to Link Sar. The cluster has three main peaks, massive K7 West and much narrower and sharper K7 Central and Main summits. SW side facing Charakusa valley has several prominent buttresses with numerous rock towers on them. Perhaps the most obvious feature of this side of the mountain is large hanging glacier between K7 Central and K7 Main dropping from the col between the two. To the wet (left) of this cols is complex SW ridge system of K7 West, that contains numerous sharp rock towers including First Pillar, Second Pillar, Prezelj-Turgeon pillar and SW Pillar (6200m). To the east of the hanging glaciers lie two prominent rocky spurs of K7 Main which frame a narrow SW face. The first ascent of K7 Main was a huge siege effort taking 40 days, 450 bolts and 6500 meters of fixed line to climb the line in 1984. Since then, K7 has become somewhat of a icon of fast & light alpine style ascents.

    Charakusa South

    W-E chain rising between Charakusa valley in the north and Nangma valley in the south: Namika - Drifika - Kapura - K6 West - K6. From K6, the ridge continues to Hassan to form a perfect horseshoe together with Charakusa north chain. Aside the main ridge, there are several long ridges both towards north and south which contain several sharp peaks with impressive rock faces. The best known of these include the likes of Fathi Brakk, Haji Brakk (5950m) and Farhod Brakk (ca. 5300m).

    K6 is the highest peak in the area surrounding the Charakusa Glacier. The Charakusa gives access to the north side of K6; to the southwest of the peak is the small Nangmah (or "Nangpah") Glacier, and to the east is the larger Kaberi Glacier and the Kaberi River valley. The peak consists of four main ridges: NE ridge from main summit toward Hassin, SE ridge from main summit to col 5700m andChangi, NW ridge from K6 west to P. P.6900 and Kapura and SW ridge from K6 West. SW ridge joins into Great Tower chain forming to southern border of Nangma glacier.

    K6-Changi

    Chain running SE from K6. The main peak of the ridge is Changi, not to be confused with much lower Changi Tower located on the side ridge towards Nangma valley.

    Amin Brakk

    There are several ridges south from Charakusa south chain into Nangma valley, many of which feature impressive rock walls. There are several separate ridges, but for the sake of this site, they are all combined into single group. Zang Brakk is located further west, the others lie on the branches of large ridge due south of Thanda Parbat. The most famous of the rock peaks is Amin Brakk.

    Great Tower

    Peaks south of Nangma valley are generally lower that the ones on its north side and most of them have no name. Still there are several peaks around 5800m high and huge vertical rock faces.

    Masherbrum group
    Masherbrum (K1)35.642576.30757821
    • West summit (7750m)
    • SW summit (7805m)
    • Masherbrum North (7821m35.642576.3075)
    Masherbrim has three summits located close to each other and with no deep cols between. It is located on Lesser Karakoram main chain with SW ridge leading to West summit. Then ridge connects to South and North summits before continuing as SE ridge towards Yamanendu Kangri. NW ridge from West summit leads to Mandu peaks, then Urdukas peaks. North ridge from North summit leads to Baltoro glacier. Short south ridge splits the south side into two faces with Masherbrum glacier below SW face and Serac glacier below SE face.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • +Belles pp.112
    North side
    3000m NE face is very difficult, reputedly comparable to North face of Jannu. Complate North pillar is another highlight. Japanese 1985 route climbs the lower pillar, but then traverses to NW ridge.
    NE face.
    3000m NE face is very difficult, reputedly comparable to North face of Jannu.
    Japanese route. 1985-07-23First ascentShin Kash et al., 1985-07-23.
    North ridge - NW ridge - NW face.
    SE ridge
    SE ridge. 1960-07-06First ascentGeorge Irving Bell & Willi Unsoeld, 1960-07-06.
    NW face
    Austrian route. VI/5.9, 85°. 1985-07-24First ascentMichi Larcher, Andreas Orgler & Robert Renzler, 1985-07-24.
    Yermanendu Kangri7163
    Located on SE ridge of Masherbrum North. At Yermanendu the ridge divides into two branches: East ridge to Masherbrum La (5364m) and South ridge to Serac Peak and further south between Masherbrum (W) and Ghondogoro (E) glaciers.
    Mandu Kangri (Mandu Peak)35.64833333376.2808333337127
    • Mandu West (7081m)
    • Mandu East (7127m35.64833333376.280833333)
    Located on NW ridge of Masherbrum. No recorded ascent.
    Mitre Peak35.776.486100
    Low peak by Karakoram standards but impressive in shape. The mountain is located very conveniently located just south of Concordia.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West face
    West Face. V+, 65°. 1980-06-02First ascentIvan Ghirardini, 1980-06-02.
    Chogolisa group
    Western chain
    Trinity Peak (Tasa Burakha, Tasa Brakk)35.62534976.4824266700
    • NE summit
    • Central summit (6700m35.62534976.482426)
    • SW summit (6614m)
    Three summit mountain located on ridge system running NW from Prupuo Burakha. NE summit is located on that chain, the other two summits on the ridge west from that to Drangra and Farorin.
    Laila Peak (Leyla Peak, Lila Peak)35.59164576.4102986096
    Very distinctive peak which is often included in the most beautiful mountains lists. Not excessively difficult. Climbed fairly often and has even been skied down.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • +Belles, pp99
    West face
    NW face. 55°; 1500m. 1987-01-01First ascentMark Miller, Sean Smith & Simon Yates, 1987.
    Chogolisa
    Chogolisa (Bride Peak)35.61333333376.5757668
    • Chogolisa I (Chogolisa SW) (7668m35.61333333376.575)
    • Chogolisa II (Chogolisa NE, Bride Peak) (7654m)
    Two summits with little altitude difference are joined by almost vertical 2 km corniced snow ridge. Legendary alpinist Hermann Buhl died when trying to put up a first ascent in 1957.
    1975-08-02
    Chogolisa, ,
    First ascent
    Party from A
    North side
    NE ridge leads to lower NE summit (Bride peak) via Ice Dome. Continuation from NE ridge involves following 1km almost horizontal and corniced ridge.
    NE ridge to NE summit. 1958-01-01First ascentM. Fujihira & K. Hirai, 1958.
    South side
    SE face and SW ridge. 1975-08-02First ascentGustav Ammerer & Fred Pressl, 1975-08-02.
    From Kaberi glacier to Kaberi col and further along the SW ridge to the summit.
    West side
    Several routes that join SW ridge at different heights.
    NW face and SW ridge. 45-50°; 2700m. 1983-01-01First ascentGerman party led by Heinz Fischer, 1983.
    • Himalaya Alpine Style pp.68-71
    Kaberi Kangri35.592576.6056950
    1958-08-05
    Kaberi Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Prupoo Brakk35.59916666776.53166666666676870
    1977-07-14
    Prupoo Brakk, ,
    First ascent
    Japanese Railway Workers Karakoram Expedition
    Ice Dome (Snow Dome)35.60972276.6055567150
    Located on NE ridge of Chogolisa II and only climbed as part of that route.
    Baltoro Kangri
    Baltoro Kangri III (Baltoro Kangri I, Golden Throne)35.63916666776.6733333337312
    1963-08-04
    Baltoro Kangri III, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    East side
    East ridge. 1963-08-04First ascentTokyo University Expedition, 1963-08-04.
    From Abruzzi glacier via Conway Saddle (6300m) and Baltoro Kangri V and IV.
    Baltoro Kangri II (Baltoro Kangri NE)35.64603376.6683427270
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Baltoro Kangri Middle (Baltoro Kangri III)35.63919776.673327300
    1900-01-01
    Event
    East side
    East ridge. 1963-08-04First ascentTokyo University Expedition, 1963-08-04.
    From Abruzzi glacier via Conway Saddle (6300m) and Baltoro Kangri V and IV.
    Baltoro Kangri IV (Baltoro Kangri South)35.63239676.680537265
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Baltoro Kangri V (Baltoro Kangri SE)35.63124476.6926757275
    1900-01-01
    Event
    East side
    NE ridge Via Conway Saddle. 1963-01-01First ascentTokyo University Expedition, 1963.
    Charakusa North
    • Link Sar (7041m35.447576.5975)
    • Link Sar North
    Located at the eastern end of Charakusa glacier between more famous K7 and K6. The ridge coming from K7 (NW ridge), makes 90 degree corner on Link Sar and continues further as SW ridge to Hassin and further to K6 group. SE ridge drops between Kaberi and Link Sar glaciers. A prominent spur drops from SW ridge forming the western border of Link Sar glacier. Despite attempts by strong parties, it remains to be climbed.
    K735.46416666776.5766666676934
    1984-08-08
    K7, ,
    First ascent
    Akira Kamizawa, Eizo Mitani & Kakoto Takenata
    East face
    East face. M6; 1800m. 2012-01-01First ascentHayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster & Urban Novak, 2012.
    SW face
    Narrow face between two long rocky spurs. The lower part of left had spur is Nafees Cap, the right hand spur is SW ridge. Between the two ice couloir leads to upper face. Obvious line would be unclimbed 2400m SW ridge integral which has been attempted at least in 1990, 1993 and 2006.
    SW face. nccs VI 5.10a M6 A2 80; 2400m. 2004-01-01First ascentSteve House, 2004.
    People's Award for the 14th Piolet d'Or.
    • House, Steve: Beyond the Mountain. Isbn: 9780979065958. Patagonia Inc, 2009.
    SW ridge. nccs VI M6 A1 WI 5+; 2400m. 1984-08-08First ascentAkira Kamizawa, Eizo Mitani & Kakoto Takenata, 1984-08-08.
    Naisa Brakk (Nayser Brakk)35.50002076.5020885200
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North ridge
    British route (North ridge, NE ridge). Rock, AD; VS/V/V+/5.10-; 300m, 1 day. 1988-01-01First ascentAndy Bunnage & David Hamilton, 1988.
    SE ridge
    The ridge consists of two tiers. The upper part can be gained by bypassing the lower tier. The crest of the ridge is followed in its entirety by No More Tasty Talking (1000m, IV 5.10+). Over the years parties have created sport routes on the lower east flank.
    Tasty Talking. Rock, III 5.10+; 300m, 11 pitches. 2004-06-30First ascentVince Anderson, Steve House & Marko Prezelj, 2004-06-30.
    Upper SW ridge.
    No More Tasty Talking. Rock, IV 5.10+; 1000m. 2004-07-02First ascentMarko Prezelj & Bruce Miller, 2004-07-02.
    SW ridge
    SW ridge. Rock, 5.11-; 900m. 2007-08-21First ascentVince Anderson, Steve House & Marko Prezelj, 2007-08-21.
    Beatrice35.51629976.5164645800
    Mid-grade Diaper Couloir is popular acclimatization climb. SE face is very different proposition offering difficult rock routes.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SE face
    The Excellent Adventure. ED+; E3 6a,A3+; 750m. 1997-01-01First ascentGrant Farquar, Steve Meyers & Mike Turner, 1997.
    Hateja. ED+; E3 6a,A3+; 800m. 1997-01-01First ascentGlenda Huxter, Kath Pyke & Louise Thomas, 1997.
    Wanderlust. nccs VI 5.10+ A3; 800m. 1997-01-01First ascentJimmy Chin, Evan Howe & Doug Workman, 1997.
    South side
    Diaper couloir. D+; 1000. 1988-01-01First ascentAndy Bunnage & Bob Marks, 1988.
    Farol West6370
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South face
    South face consists mostly of hanging glacier between Farol West and Cental. Prominent south buttress has not been completed (probably attempted by French party).
    South face. Ice, Sco III; 1000m. 1991-01-01First ascentIan Stewart & Neil Wilson, 1991.
    Climbs the hanging glacier between prominent south buttresses or Farol West and Central.
    West face
    Farol Central6350
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South ridge
    South ridge. VI,A1, M6/7; 1300m. 2005-01-01First ascentCedric Haehlen & Hans Mitterer, 2005.
    Farol East6350
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SW face
    SW face. 2007-09-13First ascentMaxime Turgeon, 2007-09-13.
    Farol Far East6200
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South side
    Difficult south face has been attempted at least by Rapheal Slawinski & Steve Swenson and the french team. The latter report the line to be roughly 1200m and ED.
    East ridge. 6c+, M6+. 2009-01-01First ascentSimon Oswald & Mirco Stalder, 2009.
    Sulu (Sulo Peak)35.493333976.55961645950
    Located next to K7 West on Charakusa north chain separated from it by 5300m col connecting Charakusa and Kaberi glaciers. The peaks has prominent ridges to North (5450m col between Sulu and farol), NE and South (col 5300 between Sulu and K7 west). Popular acclimatization goal.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SW side
    SW couloir. AD; 60°; 1000m.
    Obvious snow couloir well visible to Caharakusa valley. Popular acclimatization climb.
    NW face
    The face is formed by prominent ridge rising from col 5450m on north ridge (Farol-Sulu) and less distinct west spurs dividing west side into SW and NW faces.
    NW face. 60°; 950m. 2007-08-19First ascentVince Anderson, Steve House & Marko Prezelj, 2007-08-19.
    K7 West35.47381276.5667116858
    K7 West is much wider peaks than much sharper Central and Main. Towards Charakusa glacier the mountain has a very complex ridge system, the main ridge being SW ridge that forms the left hand border of the obvious hanging glacier between K7 West and Main. The ridge system has numerous sharp rock towers including First Pillar, Second Pillar, Prezelj-Turgeon pillar and SW Pillar (6200m).
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SE face
    West, SE face. ED; 6b+/5.11a, WI5; 2000m, 3 days. 2007-09-03First ascentSteve House, Vince Anderson & Marko Prezelj, 2007-09-03.
    SW face
    The Dreamers of Golden Caves (Sanjači zlatih jam). nccs VI 5 M5 A2; 1600m, 4 days. 2007-09-01First ascentNejc Marčič & Luka Stražar, 2007-09.
    K7 SW Pillar6200
    6200m subpeak of SW of K7 west. Three routes have been climbed on rock buttresses: Badal (Favresse-Favresse-Pustelnik-Villanueva, 2007); Luna (Cesen-Sisernik-Hrastelj, 2008); and Children of Hushe (Cagol-Larcher-Leoni-Orlandi, 2009), each topping out at 5,500m to ca 5,800m. No team has continued to the summit of the unclimbed ca. 6200m peak above the rock walls.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SW Pillar
    Badal. 5.12+,Al; 1200m. 2007-01-01First ascentNicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Adam Pustelnik & Sean Villanueva, 2007.
    Luna. VII+/V,A2; 1400m. 2008-01-01First ascentNejc Cesen, Rok Sisernik & Miha Hrastelj,, 2008.
    Children of Hushe. 7b,A2; 1100m. 2009-08-04First ascentRolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol & Elio Orlandi, 2009-08-04.
    Nafees Cap6000
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West face
    Huge rock shield on the lower part of westernmost of rocky spurs dropping towards Charakusa from K7 Main. Ledgeway to Heaven follows more or less the buttress from the glacier, the other routes climb the actual face.
    Flatlandsmo-Felde-Lied-Wiik. Rock, A3; 900m. 2011-01-01First ascentHenki Flatlandsmo, Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Odd-Roar Wiik, 2011.
    Kalland-Saether. Rock, 5.11d,A2; 900m, 20 pitches. 2011-01-01First ascentJarle Kalland, Sindre Saether, 2011.
    Naughty Daddies. Rock, 5.12/7b; 630m, 19 pitches. 2009-01-01First ascentAdrian Laing, Jon Sedon, 2009.
    Ledgeway to Heaven. Rock, 5.12+; 1300m, 28 pitches. 2007-01-01First ascentNico Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Adam Pustelnik & Sean Villanueva, 2007.
    Hassin (Hasan)35.42836576.5722056300
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West face
    West buttress is obvious and logical line. More or less the that had been attempted before the first ascent.
    West face (NW face, West buttress). WI5, M5; 2 days. 2011-01-01First ascentKyle Dempster & Hayden Kennedy, 2011.
    Charakusa South
    K6 (Baltistan Peak)35.41833333376.5516666677282
    1970-07-17
    K6, ,
    First ascent
    Von der Hecken, G. Haberl, Eduard Koblmüller & G. Pressl
    SW side
    SE ridge. 1970-01-01First ascentVon der Hecken, G. Haberl, Eduard Koblmüller & G. Pressl, 1970.
    Fathi Brakk (Charakusa Tower)35.45857376.4986485400
    Haji Brakk5950
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West face
    West face. 5.9; 1200m, 19h. 2003-07-31First ascentSteve House, 2003-07-31.
    Namika Peak (Nemeka)35.46668276.4593246325
    Westernmost big peak on Charakusa south chain.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SE side
    French route (East face & South ridge). Snow/ice, V D; AI1,M1/60°; 1425m. 2004-09-09First ascentStephane Vrinat & Hervé Florent, 2004-09-09.
    Drifika Peak (Drafey Khar, Drefekal)
    Drifika has three main ridges: North ridge towards Namika peak, (N)east ridge connecting to Kapura and South(W) ridge to col 5300m. NE side is accessible from Charakusa, SE from Nangma valley. West side of the peaks would be accessible from the smaller valleys east from Hushe valley. It is also possible to to get to this aspect of the peaks either from Nagnma valley via col 5300 or from Charakusa via col at the foot of North ridge.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NE side
    North ridge. D; 800m. 1978-01-01First ascentJapanese party, 1978.
    SE side
    White river. D+; V, 90°; 1200m. 2004-08-14First ascentGregor Blazic, Matija Jost & Vladimir Makarovic, 2004-08-14.
    Joins north ridge.
    Babba's Dead Cam. V/M4. 2007-08-23First ascentMartin Klonfar & Jiri Splichal, 2007-08-23.
    Steep ice on the southwest face to reach the southwest ridge.
    Changmah Peak35.42899476.4811385844
    Located between Drifika (West ridge from col 5550) and Thanda Parbat (S(E) ridge).
    Thanda Parbat35.41654476.4914386553
    Apparently the altitude is way off and the real altitude is somewhere around 6000m. NW ridge connects the peaj with Changmah and NE ridge to Kapura. Lond sSouth ridge into Nangma valley consists of Amin Brakk massif with its numerous big walls.
    Kapura
    Located to NW of K6, on the main chain forming the southern border of Charakusa glacier. East ridge connects Kapura with P.6900 and K6 and SW ridge to P.5584 and further to Drifika. Thirm main ridge is much shorter NE ridge, that rises from Charakusa glacier.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West side
    Wild Wings. Rock, WI5+ M7/70°; 1300m. 2008-07-15First ascentMarek Holecek & Jan Doudlebsky, 2008-07-15.
    SW flank & NW ridge. Rock, ED2/3; V M4; 1500m. 2004-07-04First ascentDoug Chabot, Bruce Miller, Marko Prezelj, Steve Swenson & Steve House, 2004-07-04.
    Kapura South, SW ridge
    Kapura South, SW ridge. 1300m. 2013-09-06First ascentPaulo Roxo & Daniela Teixeira, 2013-09-06.
    K6 West35.41997276.5434517040
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North side
    K6 West, NW Face. M6+ WI4+. 2013-07-30First ascentRaphael Slawinski & Ian Welsted, 2013-07-30.
    Winner of the Piolet d'Or 2014.
    Changi Tower
    Changi Tower lies southeast of K6, on the watershed between the Lachit and K6 glaciers. It is not to be confused with 5800m rock towers on the north side of the Nangma Valley (which are often called Changi but are correctly Changui Towers). Not to be mixed with 6500m peaks southeast of K6, on the watershed between the Lachit and K6 glaciers.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    East face
    Excess Baggage. Rock, nccs VI 5.10 A2+. 1998-01-01First ascentAbby Watkins, Nicola Woolford & Vera Wong, 1998.
    Just a Quickie. Rock, nccs VI 5.10+ A0; 26 pitches. 1998-01-01First ascentNed Norton & Paul Weber, 1998.
    Zang Brakk (Sotulpa)35.639276.67334800
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SW face
    Ramchekor (South pillar). nccs VI 5.10 A2; E3 5c,A2; 600m, 19 pitches. 1988-01-01First ascentPeter & Thomas, 1988.
    Hasta la vista David. 6a/5b,A1; 750m, 18 pitches. 2004-01-01First ascentEnea Colnago, Anna Lazzarini & Silvestro Stucchi, with Elena Davila, 2004.
    Welcome to Crackistan. TD-; 5.12d,A3; 500m, 17 pitches. 2007-08-01First ascentAnne Arran & John Arran, 2007-08.
    Amin Brakk35.39303876.4732485850
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West face
    1200m high rock face with very difficult routes.
    Czech Express. Rock, 7b+,A3/5.12.c,A3-4, 70°; 1650m. 1999-09-01First ascentFilip Silhan, Marek Holecek & David Stastny, 1999-09.
    Namkor. Rock, 6b+,A5; 1650m, 31 pitches. 2000-01-01First ascentJuan Miranda & Adolfo Madinabeitia, 2000.
    Sol Solet. Rock, nccs VII 6c+,A5; 1650m, 22 pitches. 1999-01-01First ascentSilvia Vidal, Pep Masip & Miguel Puigdomenech, 1999.
    Nawaz Brakk
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NW face
    NW face. Rock, 5.11,A3+; 1000m.
    Denbor Brakk4800
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SW face
    Bloody Mary. IX-,A2; 500m, 14 pitches. 2004-01-01First ascentVasek Satava & Pavel Jonak, 2004.
    Trihedral. VII,A2; 450m, 10 pitches.
    Denbor Brakk South Tower
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South ridge
    Good from Zafar, but Zafar from Good. nccs IV 5.10 A1; 550m, ca. 20 pitches. 2009-01-01First ascentClint Estes & Matt Hepp, 2009.
    Changi Tower35.3877276.4786135820
    1998-01-01
    Changi Tower, ,
    First ascent
    Abby Watkins, Nicola Woolford & Vera Wong
    Great Tower
    Shingu Charpa (Great Tower, Shingu Chatpa)35.35388976.4416675600
    2000-01-01
    Shingu Charpa, ,
    First ascent
    Shin Dong-Chui, Bang Jung-Ho & Hwang Young-Soon
    Logmun Tower (Green Tower, Roungkhanchan III)4600
    2001-01-01
    Logmun Tower, ,
    First ascent
    Brian McCray & Brenton Warren
    Roungkhanchan I4600
    2004-01-01
    Roungkhanchan I, ,
    First ascent
    Marco Zebochin, Stefano Zaleri & Dario Crosato

    Eastern Karakoram

    Most of the Eastern Karakoram falls into India and partly China. Significant part of the area has been in the eye of Siachen border dispute, which has kept the number of climbers to minimum. That combined with the time consuming approach have caused the ranges to be the least known part of Karakoram. There is a lot of new routing potential on many peaks well over 7000m high.

    • Kapadia, Harish: Across Peaks & Passes in Ladakh, Zanskar & East Karakoram. Isbn: 9788173871009. Indus Publishing Company, 1999.

    Siachen Muztagh

    The Siachen Muztagh is a remote subrange of the eastern Karakoram Range. Siachen glacier is squarely in the center of Siachen border dispute between India and Pakistan. Because of this, the area has been completely off-limits to climbers. Because of this, the area is very little explored. Several 7000m peaks are waiting their first ascents and the peaks that have been climbed generally only only. Therefore, the area has extensive potential for new routing.

    Siachen Muztagh runs generally west to east to the north of Teram Shehr, Upper Rimo and North Rimo glaciers. Western border is formed by Siachen glacier, in the north natural Border is Shaksgam river and in the east Yarkand river and NE Rimo group.

    The group consists on long west-east chain with all the main peaks: Singhi Kangri, Teram Kangri and Apsarasas peaks located in the western part of the main ridge. The highest peak is the little known Teram Kangri I (7462m). Aside of the main ridge there are several NW-SE ridges to the north from the main ridge. There are several peaks well above 6000m on these ridges, although they are little known and usually don't even have a name.

    Singhi Kangri

    Westrenmost main peak of Siachen Muztagh. From the summit very long ridge runs NW between Staghar (west) and Singhi (east) glaciers. This ridge is known as Staghar group and there are unnamed peaks up to 6800m on the ridge.

    Teram Kangri group

    Section of Siachen main chain running NW-SE between Singhi Kangri in NW and Apsarasas group in SE. All three main peaks are located on the main ridge, but there are major side ridges both towards north and south from Teram Kangri III and SWridge from Tream Kangri II which leads to knot point of Siachen, Teram, Asparasas and Teram Shehr glaciers. The SW ridge was followed by the Japanese party on 1975 to Teram Kangri II, then continued to nearby Teram Kangri I.

    Apsarasas group

    Apsarasas group consists of seven independent peaks located on a generally west-east ridge north of Teram Shehr glacier. South side of the peaks is accessible from Teram Shehr glacier while the north side would be approached from Central Kyagar glacier. Due to their location, they were strictly off limits due to Siachen dispute and therefore, there has been very few attempts. Aside of Apsarasas Kangri I and SW, all other main peaks are though to be unclimbed.

    The main peaks of the group sit on west-east Siachen main chain. I and II are a bit away from the rest of the peaks that form a tight group further in the east. Apsarasas Kangri SW is located on a long SW ridge of Apsarasas Kangri I. Other main side ridges are NE ridge of Apsarasas Kangri II and ridge towards north a bit to the east from Apsarasas Kangri III East.

    Kyagar group

    Kyagar group is group of peaks located N(W) of Apsarasas group.

    Teram Shehr group

    Teram Shehr group is located east of Apsarasas group and West of NE Rimo group.

    Singhi Kangri group
    Singhi Kangri35.676.9833333337202
    1976-08-08
    Singhi Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    Masafumi Katayama, Junichi Imai & Shohei Takahashi
    Teram Kangri group
    Teram Kangri I35.58083333377.0783333337462
    1975-08-12
    Teram Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    K. Kodaka & Y. Kobayashi
    Teram Kangri II7385
    1975-08-12
    Teram Kangri II, ,
    First ascent
    K. Kodaka & Y. Kobayashi
    Teram Kangri III35.677.0483333337382
    1979-08-03
    Teram Kangri III, ,
    First ascent
    Mitsutaka Kudo, Masanori Oka & Junji Kurotaki
    Apsarasas Kangri group
    Apsarasas Kangri I (Apsarasas III)35.52083333377.1991666677245
    1965-12-31
    Apsarasas Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    Japanse party led by H. Misawa
    Apsarasas Kangri II (Apsarasas I)35.53833333377.1483333337241
    1976-08-07
    Apsarasas Kangri II, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp

    Rimo Muztagh

    Located in the far northwest corner of the Karakoram, the Rimo Muztagh is one of the most remote subranges. Natural borders of the range is formed by Siachen glacier and Nubra valley in SW. In the north Rimo Muztagh is separated from Siachen Muztagh by Teram Shehr glacier and Central Rimo Glacier. In the east the range borders on Depsang Plains. In the south Rimo is separated from Sadser Muztagh by Thumlam Puti river.

    Rimo Main chain extends from Teram Shehr glacier in NW to Saser la (5395m), which separates Rimo Muztagh from Saser Muztagh. Most of the highest peaks are located on the main chain: Rimo III, II and I - Sondhi - Chong Kumdan II - Mamostong Kangri I and Mamostong Kangri II.

    The main chain is located some distance away from Siachen glacier - Nubra valley, particularly in the southern part. There are several other ridge systems, generally more or less parallel to main chain between Siachen glacier - Nubra valley and the main chain. Northernmost of these side ridges have quite high peaks, rising almost to 7000m. Further south the peaks are significantly lower and most of them are unnamed in Wala Map.

    On the east side of Rimo main chain the ridge system east of Rimo IV, extensive group of peaks further south and Chong Kumdan ridge are the most important.

    Still further East, to the NE of North and Central Rimo glaciers is NE Rimo range. It has several peaks a little above 6000m, none of them named on a map.

    Despite containing high peaks such as Mamostong Kangri (7516m), Rimo I, II, II and IV (7385m, 7373m, 7232m, 7169m) and Padmanabh (7030m), the region receives few expeditions. This is largely due to its remoteness and the fact that it lies close to the militarily sensitive Siachen Glacier.

    Terong group

    Northernmost side ridge between Siachen glacier and Rimo main chain. The group has quite high peaks, such as Junction Peak, Lakshmi, High Pyramid rising almost to 7000m.

    Rimo group

    Rimo group is home to highest peaks of Rimo Range. Rimo main chain from Teram Shehr glacier to pass south of Rimo I. Rimo III, II and I are located on the main chain, although it could be argued that II is not really a independent mountain, rather a north shoulder of Rimo I. A long West-East ridge branches off from Rimo III. The ridge runs generally towards east to the junction of Central and South Rimo glaciers. There are several peaks rising well above 6000m, highest of them close to 7000m. None of these peaks are names on a map.

    Shelkar group

    West-East chain between Rimo group in the north and Kumdan group in the south

    Kumdan group

    Chong Kumdan

    West-east chain with Chong Kumdan II, III, I and IV. The ridge is surrounded by North Chong Kumdan glacier in the north and South Chong Kumdan glacier in the south. West side of Chong Kumdan II aside (South Terong glacier), all climbs of Chong Kumdan group are approached from either of these glaciers.

    Mamostong Kangri

    Rimo Muztagh main chain runs in NW-SE direction. Both main peaks of the area, Mamostong Kangri I and II are located on the ridge before it descents to Saser la (5395m) separating Rimo Muztagh from Saser Muztagh. Mamostong Kangri I and II are quite a distance from each other, there is 5885m col and several other summits between the two. Aside of main ridge, there is long east ridge from both Mamostong Kangri peaks as well as very long and complex ridge system SW from Mamostong Kangri I. All three of these ridges have peaks rising above 6500m, but none of those peaks are even name on a map.

    South Terong group

    Southern group between Numba valley and Rimo main chain. The peaks are not as high as on Terong group further north. Main peaks are Nagabong Terong and Stongstet Peak.

    Terong group
    Padmanabh (Terong Tower)35.4477.18257038
    2002-06-25
    Padmanabh, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp/Ind
    Rimo group
    Rimo I (Rimo Kangri I)35.35577.377385
    1988-07-28
    Rimo I, ,
    First ascent
    Nima Dorje Sherpa, Tsewang Smanla, Yoshio Ogata & Hideki Yoshida
    Rimo Kangri III (Rimo III)35.37577.3616666677233
    1985-07-14
    Rimo Kangri III, ,
    First ascent
    Dave Wilkinson & Jim Fotheringham
    Rimo Kangri IV35.37666666777.3794444447169
    1984-08-11
    Rimo Kangri IV, ,
    First ascent
    Y. Chhibar, G. Sharma, K. Sooch & M. Yadev
    Rimo II (Rimo Kangri II)35.35671677.3703517373
    1989-01-01
    Rimo II, ,
    First ascent
    Nick Kekus & Stephen Sustad via theWest Ridge
    Kumdan group
    Chong Kumdan group
    Chong Kumdang Ri I (Chong Kumdan I)35.19416666777.5858333337071
    1991-08-04
    Chong Kumdang Ri I, ,
    First ascent
    Indo-Tibet Border Police
    Mamostong Kangri group
    Mamostong Kangri (Mamostong Kangri I)35.14166666777.5783333337516
    1984-09-13
    Mamostong Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    N. Yamada, K. Yoshida, R. Sharma, P. Das & H. Chauhan
    Aq Tash I (Mamostong Kangri II, Skyampoche Ri)35.077577.63757016
    1993-08-06
    Aq Tash I, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp/Ind

    Saser Muztagh

    Saser Muztagh is the easternmost subrange of the Karakoram range, located in the Kashmir region of India. The range is located SE of Saser la (5395m) which separates it from Rimo Muztagh. From all other sides the group is bordered on Shyok river, which creates a loop around the range.

    Since this region is near the disputed border between Pakistan and India, there is currently little climbing and exploratory activity in the range. Most impressive peaks of the range are found in Saser Kangri massif. Saser Kangri II E (7511m) was one of the highest unclimbed summits until a successful ascent by Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson & Freddie Wilkinson 2011-08-24. If the permit can be arranged, the range is easiest to access from Nubra valley which can be gained from Leh.

    Saser Kangri group

    The group with the highest peaks of the range. Located on the main ridge, in the norther part of Saser Muztagh.

    Chhusky group

    Ridge system branching to the east from Saser Kangri I. Locaten NE of North Shukpa Kungchang glacier.

    Shukpa Kunchang group

    Ridge towards east from the main chain with Saser Kangri II. Located between North Shukpa Kungchang and North Shukpa Kungchang glaciers.

    Arganqlas group

    Saser main chain South of Saser Kangri II where Shukpa Kunchang group runs generally towards east.

    Saser Kangri group
    Saser Kangri I (K22)34.86666666777.7533333337672
    1973-06-05
    Saser Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    Indo-Tibet Border Police
    Saser Kangri III34.84083333377.78757495
    1986-05-15
    Saser Kangri III, ,
    First ascent
    Budhiman, Neema Dorjee, Sher Singh, Tajwer Singh, Phurba Sherpa & Chhewang Somanla from east
    Plateau Peak7287
    2013-01-01
    Plateau Peak, ,
    First ascent
    Debraj Datta, Subrate De, Pradeep Ch Sahoo, Prasanta Gorai, Dawa Sherpa, Lakpa Norbu Sherpa, Lakpa Tenzing Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa & Phurba Sherpa
    Shukpa Kunchang group
    Saser Kangri II E (Shukpa, Shukpa Kunchang)34.80577.8066666677513
    2011-08-24
    Saser Kangri II E, ,
    First ascent
    Mark Richey, Steve Swenson & Freddie Wilkinson
    Argan Kangri group
    Argan Kangri (Arganglas Kangri, Phunangma?)34.60583333377.8991666676789
    1970-08-04
    Argan Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Ind

    Saltoro

    Saltoro (Saltoro Parvat or Saltoro Muztagh) is a subrange of the Karakoram, located in the heart of the Karakoram, to the SW of Siachen Glacier, one of the longest glaciers outside of the polar regions. The area is seldom visited by climbers, not least because of ongoing conflict about the ownership of the area between Pakistan and India. Should the political situation calm down, Saltoro's huge granite towers would probably attract climbers as shit attracts flies.

    The range consists on Saltoro main ridge running generally from NW to SE. The ridge is high and prominent at first, then gets less distinct further south. Bilafond La (5547m) connects the northern part of Saltoro ridge with Chumik group on the south of the Bilafond glacier. The same ridge system runs further SE from Gyong La (Hope Col, 5700m) and forms the backbone of Kailas range. All the main peaks aside of Sherpi Kangri I are located on the main ridge.

    The range has numerous side ridges, particularly SE of Bilafond glacier. However, the most prominent and longest of them being the ridge forming the NW bank of Bilafond glacier and known as Bilafond wall. It its SW end lies Dansam peak (6666m) and NE end is dominated by Tawiz Peak (6400m).

    Kondus group

    Northernmost group on Saltoro range. Located between Sia la and Sia Kangri on the north, Saltoro Kangri group in the south and Baltoro Kangri in NW. Main peaks are the summits of Ghent Kangri and Depak. The group consists of:

    • Saltoro Main ridge: Kury Kangri - Depak - Ghent Kangri North - Ghent Kangri South. South ridge of Ghent Kangri South which connects the group with Sherpi Kangri II
    • East ridge of Depak containing Jawk.
    • Long ridge towards SE from Grent Kangri North
    • Rather complex side branch initially towards west from Chogron Kangri, then turning towards north and containing Silver Throne
    • Additionally there are less prominent ridges, mainly towards north

    Saltoro group

    Saltoro group consists of peaks rising dramatically above the Pakistani valleys of the Kondus and Saltoro Rivers to the west and Siachen glacier to the east. The highest peak is the namesake, Saltoro Kangri, which is also the jighest peak of the entire Saltoro range. Sherpi Kangri I and II located further north are the other main peaks. Due to Siachen dispute, the peak, just like the entire range, is very little explored. Geographically Saltoro group consists of:

    Saltoro main ridge: Serpi Kangri II - Pyramic Peak - Saltoro Kangri North - Saltoro Kangri South - Lica Saddle Long ridge toward SW from Sherpi Kangri II with Sherpi Kangri I. Further away the ridge is knows as Karma Ding Wall and contains several peaks around 6000m. A couple of shorter side ridges, mainly towards west. The most prominent of them being west ridge of Saltoro Kangri North which contains Dong D. peak.

    Sherpi Kangri has two peaks. Lower II is located on Saltoro main chain while I on located somewhat aside to the SW.

    Bilafond group

    Long ridge running across Saltoro main ridge forming the NW bank of Bilafond glacier and known as Bilafond wall. It its SW end lie Dansam group with Dansam peak (6666m) and NE end is dominated by Tawiz Peak (6400m).

    Chumik group

    Chumik group is bordered by Bilafond glacier in the NW, Siachen glacier in the East, Gyong river and glacier is SW and South Hasrhat glacier is SE. On its south side rise Kailash mountains. K12 is the southernmost 7000m peak in Saltoro range and the second highest peak of the range. Chumik Peak located further SW is the other main peak of the group. Those aside, Wala map does not name any other peaks, but marks several peaks between 6000 and 6300m high.

    Kondus group

    Ghent Kangri I (Ghent Kangri)35.51833333376.8008333337401
    1961-06-04
    Ghent Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    Wolfgang Axt via West ridge
    Ghent Kangri II35.527576.817342
    2970-06-28
    Ghent Kangri II, ,
    First ascent
    Party from
    Depak35.54102776.8115737150
    1960-08-13
    Depak, ,
    First ascent
    Ernst Senn & Michel Anderl

    Saltoro group

    Saltoro Kangri I (K35)35.39916666776.8491666677742
    1962-07-24
    Saltoro Kangri I, ,
    First ascent
    Y. Takamura, A. Saito & Capt. Bashir
    Sherpi Kangri (Sherpi Kangri I)35.46666666776.7816666677380
    1976-08-10
    Sherpi Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp

    Chumik group

    K1235.29583333377.0216666677428
    1974-08-30
    K12, ,
    First ascent
    Shinichi Takagi & Tsutomu Ito