Kyangjin Gompa in the upper Langtang valley. Credit: Ari Paulin,  Shot on 2009-06-21 Photo taken in , Rasuwa, Nepal.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.
Kyangjin Gompa in the upper Langtang valley. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2009-06-21 Photo taken in , Rasuwa, Nepal.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.

Western Nepal

Far West

Changla Himal

Transhimalayan range (on Nepal-Tibet Autonomous Region border). Main convenient center is Simikot which is most commonly gained by flight from Nepalgunj. However, the words convenient and center as well as expression "most commonly" don't readily apply to this part of Nepal.

Chandi Himal

East of Nalakankar Himal, separated from it by Lapche La.

Nalakankar Himal
Gurla Mandhata I (Naimona'nyi, Memo Nani)30.43833333381.2958333337694
1985-01-01
Gurla Mandhata I, NW flank,
First ascent
NW flank: Cirenuoji, Jiabu, Jin Junxi, K. Matsubayashi, Song Zhiyu, K. Suita, Y. Suita & T. Wada
NW side
NW flank. 1985-01-01First ascentCirenuoji, Jiabu, Jin Junxi, K. Matsubayashi, Song Zhiyu, K. Suita, Y. Suita & T. Wada, 1985.
Gurla Mandhata II30.46833333381.3016666676912
1997-10-05
Gurla Mandhata II, ,
First ascent
Party from USA
Guna (Gonalha)30.4681.3533333336902
1997-10-14
Guna, ,
First ascent
Party from USA

Gurans Himal

Small and little known range in western Nepal. The peaks rise dramatically from low surrounding terrain.

Yoka Pahar/Api Himal

West of the Seti chain with Api West - Api - Nampa - Nampa South - Bobaye - Jethi Bahurani - Rokapi rise in a horseshoe around Chamila Khola in the south.

Saipal Himal

East of the Seti River

Api30.00580.9283333337132
1960-05-10
Api, ,
First ascent
K. Hirabayashi & Gyaltsen Norbu
NW face
NW face. 1960-05-10First ascentK. Hirabayashi & Gyaltsen Norbu, 1960-05-10.
Saipal I29.88916666781.4941666677030
1963-10-21
Saipal I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Jethi Bahurani29.88166666781.0408333336850
1978-04-27
Jethi Bahurani, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Bobaye29.95833333381.02256808
1996-11-02
Bobaye, ,
First ascent
Party from Slo
Raksha Uraï III6609
1900-01-01
Event
South Ridge
South Ridge. Snow, IV AD. 2003-10-05First ascentAshe, Catherine Coulaud, Arnaud Clère & Gaël Faroux, 2003-10-05.
  • SdN #22
Kojichwa Chuli (Kojichuwa Chuli)6439
Gojung (Mugu Chuli)6310

Upper Karnali basin

Kanti Himal

Transhimalayan border range

Kaqur Kangri (Kubi Gangri, Kanti Himal)29.76583333382.7516666676850
2002-09-24
Kaqur Kangri, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp

Kanjiroba Himal

Kanjiroba Himal is located in western Nepal along the Tibetan border, in the region known as Dolpo. The area lies NW from Dhaulagiri Himal, in Shey Phoksundo National Park and about 180km NW of Pokhara. Jumla is the most convenient starting point. The highest peak of the range is Kanjiroba at 6883m.

Kanjiroba29.37583333382.63756883
1970-11-07
Kanjiroba, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
SW ridge
SW ridge. 1976-01-01First ascentDick Isherwood, 1976.

Kagmara Lekh

south of Kanjiroba, north of Dhaulagiri

west of Kaligandaki River

Gautam Himal

transhimalayan border range

Mukut Himal

6,000m and 5,000m peaks northeast of Dhaulagiri II

Mukut group

Mukut Himal28.83333483.4833306639
Hongde6556
1900-01-01
Event

Sandachhe Himal

Tashi Kang6386
1900-01-01
Event
SE Face & SW Ridge
SE Face & SW Ridge. Snow, III PD. 2003-05-19First ascentAngela Beltrame, Olaf Koehler, Franz Meutzner, Goetz Wiegaud & Olaf Zill, 2003-05-19.
  • SdN #21
Tsartse6343

Dhaulagiri Himal

Dhaulagiri Himal extends 120km from Bheri (west) to Kaligandaki River (east). This massif is enclosed on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri and on the southeast by Myagdi Khola. It consists of two massifs: Western group and Eastern group. The two are separated by Myagdi Khola and Hidden valleys which are connected by French pass (5360m).

There are no NMA group A or B trekking peaks in Dhaulagiri Himal, so the number of climbers is very low. Trek from Muni through Myagdi Khola, French Pass and Dhampuss Pass to Marpha in Kali Dandaki valley is the most important trekking route of Dhaulagiri Himal. It also provides access to Italian base Camp (Dhaulagiri West side) and Dhaulagiri BC (north and west sides) as well as several lower peaks.

Western group

Western group running generally in West-East direction to French pass (5360m) at the head of Myagdi Khola. The group has several 7000m peaks, but none are particularly popular or otherwise famous.

Eastern group

Chain runs in SW-NE direction. The ridge is crossed by popular trekking route through Dhampuss Pass between Tukuche and Dhampuss Peaks.

Western group
Dhaulagiri II28.76333333383.3883333337751
The highest peak in Dhaulagiri Himal western group. Located at the junction of three ridges, thus the peak has three main faces: NW, NE and South. Additionally East face is formed by a smaller ridge towards south from east ridge, somewhat east of the summit.
1971-05-18
Dhaulagiri II, ,
First ascent
Party from A
Dhaulagiri IV28.73583333383.3158333337661
1975-05-09
Dhaulagiri IV, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Dhaulagiri V28.73444444483.3655555567618
1975-05-01
Dhaulagiri V, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Churen Himal (Churen Himal Main, Churen Himal Central)28.73583.2166666677385
1970-10-24
Churen Himal, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Dhaulagiri VI28.70833333383.2741666677268
1970-04-17
Dhaulagiri VI, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII)28.747583.1458333337246
1954-11-11
Putha Hiunchuli, ,
First ascent
J.O.M. Roberts & Ang Nyima sherpa. First major peak in the range to be climbed
East Face (NNE face)
East Face (NNE face). Snow, IV PD; Usually 3 high camps. 1954-01-01First ascentJ.O.M. Roberts & Ang Nyima sherpa. Fiorst major peak in the range to be climbed, 1954.
South face
South spur. 60°. 1972-04-18First ascentHiroshi Aoki & Sherpa Ang Norbu, 1972-04-18.
Gurja Himal (Sauwala)28.67416666783.2758333337193
1969-11-01
Gurja Himal, ,
First ascent
Tomokuni Saegi, Sherpa Lhakpa Tenzing
Eastern group
Dhaulagiri I28.69666666783.4941666678167
4000m high South and West Faces rank with the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and Wickersham Wall of Denali as the biggest walls on earth.
1960-05-13
Dhaulagiri I, ,
First ascent
Ernst Forrer, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert, Nawang Dorje Sherpa & Nima Dorje Sherpa
North side
North flank (Birnen-Route, Pear Buttress). 1982-10-18First ascentKozo Komatsu, Yasuhira Saito & Noboru Yamada, 1982-10-18.
East side
NE ridge via NE Col. VII AD; 3550m. 1960-05-13First ascentErnst Forrer, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert, Nawang Dorje Sherpa & Nima Dorje Sherpa, 1960-05-13.
Normal route. Long approach from Tukuche over Dhanpuss Pass and French Col. Base camp at 4600m. Joins NE Ridge at ~7950m. The expedition did not use supplemental oxygen but did use small plane to deposit equipment and some of the climber to Dhampus-Pass (5250m).
  • Diemberger, Kurt: Summits and Secrets. Isbn: 9780898863079. Mountaineers Books, 1991.
East Face Central Route. VI AI3 M4. 1980-01-01First ascentRené Ghillini, Wocjiech Kurtyka, Alex McIntyre & Ludowik Wilczycvzynski, 1980.
SE ridge. 1978-10-19First ascentTsutomu Miyazaki, Hiroyuki Tani & Akira Ube, 1978-10-19.
South side
4000m high face
South Pillar (South Buttress). 1978-05-05First ascentToshiaki Tobeyashi & Tatsuji Shigeno, 1978-05-05.
Polish route. VI-, 70°. 1986-01-01First ascentPolish team led by Eugeniusz Chrobak, 1986.
Joins crest of the South Buttress at c7700m.
Humar route. VII, M7+. 1999-11-01First ascentThomas Humar, 1999-11.
South face (Original Slovenian Route). 1981-01-01First ascentStane Belak, Cene Bercic & Emil Tratnik, 1981.
Join SE Ridge at ~7300m and follows the ridge to junction with the North East Ridge.
West side
Czech route. 1984-10-23First ascentKarel Jakes, Jan Simon & Jaromir Stejskal, 1984-10-23.
Central pillar. 1991-05-10First ascentAnatoli Boukreev, Rinat Khabibulin, Yuri Moiseev, Vladimir Souviga & Andrei Tselishchew, 1991-05-10.
SW ridge. 1988-10-06First ascentZoltan Demjan, Yuri Moiseev & Kazbek Valiev, 1988-10-06.
Tukche Ri (Tukuche)28.74583333383.5591666676920
1969-05-10
Tukche Ri, ,
First ascent
Party from CH
Tukche Ri North6848
1969-05-10
Tukche Ri North, ,
First ascent
Party from CH
Mukut Himal
Mukut group
Mukut Himal28.83333483.4833306639
Hongde6556
1900-01-01
Event
Sandachhe Himal
Tashi Kang6386
1900-01-01
Event
SE Face & SW Ridge
SE Face & SW Ridge. Snow, III PD. 2003-05-19First ascentAngela Beltrame, Olaf Koehler, Franz Meutzner, Goetz Wiegaud & Olaf Zill, 2003-05-19.
  • SdN #21
Tsartse6343

Dwari Lekh

lower peaks at western end of Dhaulagiris

Annapurna area

Annapurna Himal

Annapurna main chain is a more or less west-east running chain of high peaks about 40km north of Pokhara. From west to each the main peaks of the main chain are Nilgiri (7081m), Tilicho Peak (7134m), Annapurna I (8026m), Glacier Dome (7193m), Gangapurna (7455m), Annapurna III (7555m), Annapurna IV (7525), Annapurna II (7937m) and Lamjung Himal (6931m). By far the most visited part of the range by climbers is Annapurna Sanctuary, a large horseshoe of high peaks around Modi Khola river on the south side of the main chain.

Annapurna West

Westernmost part of Annapurna Himal consists group of peaks running generally SW-NE from Nilgiri group to Thorong La. Thorong La is crossed by northern option of Annapurna Circuit very close to Thorong Peak located just south of it.

Annapurna Central

Central part of Annapurna Himal consists of peaks forming a large horseshoe of high peaks around Modi Khola river on the south side of the main chain known as Annapurna Sanctuary. Annapurna Sanctuary is formed (from West) by Hiunchuli (6441m), Annapurna South (7249m), Baraha Sikhar (Fang, 7647m), Annapurna I (8026m), Khangsar Khang (Roc Noir, 7485m), Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome, 7193m), Gangapurna (7455m), Annapurna III (7555m), Gandharba Chuli (6248) and Machhapuchhare (6993m) and Mardi Himal (5587m). The upper part of Sanctuary is divided into two by a smaller side branch running towards south from Tarke Kang. This ridge contains Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) and Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak), the most often climbed peaks within the sanctuary. This side brand also divides the Sanctuary into south Annapurna glacier in the west and West Annapurna Glacier to the east of the ridge (there's also Annapurna East glacier in the easternmost part of the sanctuary).

Singu Chuli-Tharpu Chuli

Ridge south from Tarke Kang separating the upper Annapurna sanctuary in two with Annapurna South glacier in the west and Annapurna West glacier in the east (Annapuirna East glacier is still further east). The end of the ridge comes close to both Annapurna South BXC and Macchapucchare BC. Both of the peaks are reasonably popular trekking peaks, particularly the easier Tharpu Chuli.

Annapurna East

Annapurna main chain continues further east from Annapurna III in generally west-east direction to Annapurna IV and II. Large North-South chain crosses the main chain at IV.

Annapurna West

Tilicho (Tilitso Peak, Tilitso Himal)28.682583.81257134
1900-01-01
Event
North side
The camp is located along the southern option of Annapurna Circuit. It appears that all ascents have been made from the north and NE. It is not clear whether there are multiple distinct routes or have all the parties followed more or less same route.
NE Ridge & N Ridge. Snow/mixed, V PD+. 1978-10-10First ascentEmmanuel Schmulz, 1978-10-10.
  • SdN #14
Nilgiri (Nilgiri North)28.6983.7457061
1962-10-19
Nilgiri, North face to west ridge,
First ascent
North face to west ridge: Lionel Terray, P. van Lookeren Campagne, P. F. J. van Lookeren Campagne, H. C. van Lookeren Campagne, Sirdar Wongdhi
North side
North face to west ridge. 1962-10-19First ascentLionel Terray, P. van Lookeren Campagne, P. F. J. van Lookeren Campagne, H. C. van Lookeren Campagne, Sirdar Wongdhi, 1962-10-19.
Nilgiri Central6940
1900-01-01
Event
East ridge
East ridge. 1979-04-30First ascentKohichi Sakata, Yasuo Tsuda, 1979-04-30.
Nilgiri South28.65583.736839
1900-01-01
Event
SW ridge
SW ridge. 1978-10-10First ascentKazuo Mitsui, Taichi Fujimatsu, Yoshiaki Kato, Nobuhito Morota, Seiji Tanaka, Hideki Yoshida, 1978-10-10.
South face
South face. M5/90°; 1500m. 2015-10-26First ascentHansjörg Auer, Gerhard Fiegl, Alexander Blümel, 2015-10-26.
Thorong Peak6144
Easy peak located just south of Thorong La.

Annapurna Central

Hiunchuli-Annapurna South
Hiunchuli28.51666783.8833336441
  • Hiunchuli (6441m28.51666783.883333)
  • Hiunchuli East (6005m)
Group B trekking peak located to the west of Annapurna Sanctuary, forming the gate with Maccahapucchare located on the opposite side of Modi Khola. Not to be confused with Putha Hiunchuli (7246m, located in Dhaulagiri Himal). One of the most difficult trekking peaks. All routes very difficult (TD or more).
NE face
Terra Nostra. ED2; VI+,A2, 85°; 1200m. 1995-10-05First ascentTadej Gulob, Tomaz Jeras & Dusan Polenik, 1995-10-05.
To subsidiary SE summit.
SE face
SE face (SE face). TD; Sco III/IV; 2 high camps. 1971-10-10First ascentCraig Anderson, Lane Smith, John Skow, Peter Cross & James Richards, 1971-10-10.
Normal route. Complicated route finding. Exposed to rock and serac fall.
East face. TD; Sco III/IV. 1981-01-01First ascentEric Simonson, Bob Wilson, Pete Cummings, Bonnie Nabori, Laverne Woods, Curt Hewitt, Gary Doyle, Tim Byrnes & Tony Townsend, 1981.
SE ridge. TD-.
  • Barrabes 22
SW face
Cuerpo de Paz Americano. TD.
  • Barrabes 22
NW face
NW face. D/TD; 2 high camps. 1984-01-01First ascentMasayuki Ando, 1984.
  • O'Connor 141-2
  • Barrabes 22#1
American. D+.
  • Barrabes 22
Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South, Moditse)28.51833333383.8058333337219
1964-10-15
Annapurna Dakshin, ,
First ascent
S. Uyeo & Mingma Tsering
North ridge
North ridge. 1964-01-01First ascentS. Uyeo & Mingma Tsering, 1964.
Annapurna main chain
Annapurna I (Morshiadi)28.59583333383.8208333338091
  • Main Summit (8091m28.59583333383.820833333)
  • Middle Summit (8051m)
  • East Summit (8026m)
1900-01-01
Event
  • Top Climbs pp.34-39
  • Herzog, Maurice: Annapurna, 1st edition. Isbn: 9781558215498. The Lyons Press, 1997.
  • C.B.E., Sir Chris Bonington: Annapurna South Face - The Classic Account of Survival (Adrenaline). Isbn: 9781560253150. Da Capo Press, 2001.
North face
North face is both lower and technically less difficult than the south face. However, due to frequent avalanches, it is also more dangerous. "Dutch Spur" ("Dutch Rib") variant objectively slightly less dangerous than the original French route.
Dutch Spur. 1977-10-13First ascentMatthieu Van Rijswick & Sonam Sherpa, 1977-10-13.
French route (From West via North Face). 1950-01-01First ascentMaurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray & Gaston Rebuffat. Annapurna was the first 8000 meter peak to be climbed. Herzog wrote a book about the ascent., 1950.
Normal route. Propably the easiest route. However, the route is avalanche prone and extremely dangerous. BC at 4250.
North ridge. 1996-10-20First ascentAndrzej Marciniak & Wladyslaw Terzyul, 1996-10-20.
North ridge. 1974-01-01First ascentJose Manuel Anglada, Emilio Civis & Jordi Pons to East summit, 1974.1980-01-01First ascentGerman expedition to Central summit, 1980.1987-01-01First ascentSpanish expedition to Main summit, 1987.
Route following initially North ridge has been used to climb all three summits. Combinations consisting of following 1974 Spanish Route to a height of 6400m, then following 1980 German route and finally joining 1950 French route at 7200m and following it to Main summit is known as "German-French Route".
South face
Rises 4000m above Annapurna Sanctuary valley floor (BC at 4234m) at the head of Annapurna Sanctuary. The face has three prominent spurs leading to main summit: Left-spur (British), central (Japanese) and right (Polish). The first ascent of Annapurna from the south by British party in 1970 was a milestone in mountaineering.
British route (South face). Ice, VII/AI4,M5?/80°, 5.9,A2; 2450m.
Classic. Technically very difficult.
Steck route. 2500m. 2013-10-08First ascentUeli Steck, 2013-10-08.
Japanese route. 1981-10-29First ascentHiroshi Aota & Yukihiro Yanagisawa, 1981-10-29.
Polish route (Polish spur, John Paul II Route). 1981-05-23First ascentMaciej Berbeka & Bogusław Probulski, 1981-05-23.
Spanish route (Catalan route). V+,A2, 80°. 1984-10-03First ascentNil Bohigas & Enric Lucas, 1984-10-03.
East Ridge
Very long ridge from Annapurna Main with Annapurna Middle (8051m), Annapurna East (8026m), P. 7555 and Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir, 7485m) to col Singu Chuli - Tarke Kang (6500m). The first ascent party gained the ridge furthest away by gaining the col between Singu Chuli and Tarke Kang. Later the ridge has been gained at col on the SE ridge of Roc Noir (1988 by Ramiro Navarrete) and by East Pillar to the west of Roc Noir (1988 by Artur Hajzer and Jerzy Kukuczka). Solo ascent of Thomas Humar is more or less identical to 2000 South Face of Kangsar Kang.
East rib. Snow/ice, 1500m. 1988-01-01First ascentArtur Hajzer & Jerzy Kukuczka, 1988.
Prominent spur leading to To Roc Noir on Annapurna East ridge.
South Face of Kangsar Kang. Snow/ice, 60°. 2000-01-01First ascentYannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff & Patrick Wagnon, 2000.
Leading to to Roc Noir, to the tight of East rib.
East Ridge. 1984-10-24First ascentNorbert Joos & Erhard Loretan, 1984-10-24.
From the Annapurna south base camp (4200m) via Col between Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak, 6501m) and Tarke Kang (7202m) to Tarke Kang and along the 7,5km ridge over Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir, 7485m) to Annapurna. 2002 repetition was nominated for Piolet d'Or.
NW face
NW face (Czech route). 1988-10-01First ascentJosef Nezerka & Jindrich Martis, 1988-10-01.
Varahar Shikar (Fang, Bharha Chuli)28.57805555683.8033333337647
1980-05-17
Varahar Shikar, ,
First ascent
Sepp Mayerl, Hermann Neumair & Ang Chhopal sherpa
Annapurna III28.58583.9908333337555
NW ridge (towards Gangapurna) and (N)E ridges consist of Annapurna main chain. Third major ridge of the peak is the very long ridge system running south and forming the eastern bank of Annapurna Sanctuary.
1961-05-06
Annapurna III, ,
First ascent
Indian expedition led by Capt. Mohan Singhi Kohli
NE face
NE face. 1961-01-01First ascentIndian expedition led by Capt. Mohan Singhi Kohli, 1961.
Gangapurna28.60583.9633333337455
1965-05-06
Gangapurna, ,
First ascent
German expedition led by Günther Hauser
East ridge
East ridge. 1965-01-01First ascentGerman expedition led by Günther Hauser, 1965.
Roc Noir (Kangshar Kang)7485
Located on the East ridge of Annapurna I and is climbed as part of that. Annapurna I South Face Spanish route (1984) climbs the south face of Roc Noir to join the ridge. Also Thomas Humas solo ascent of 2007 gained the East ridge by South face of Roc Noir.
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome)7193
Located on the East ridge of Annapurna and climbed as part of the complete East ridge of Annapurna I (some variants join the ridge close r to Annapurna thus bypassing Tarke Kang). West ridge leads to Roc Noir and East ridge to Gangapurnal. Third major ridge is South ridge which contains trekking peaks Singu Chuli and Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak).
Singu Chuli-Tharpu Chuli
Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)28.58333383.96501
Trekking peak located in Annapurna Sanctuary, between Tarke Kang (on Annapurna main chain) and Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) on the ridge running south from the main chain. Singu Chuli is reasonably popular and can be climbed both from West (South Annapurna glacier) and East (West Annapurna glacier), with the latter being the easier.
1900-01-01
Event
NE Face & East Ridge
NE Face & East ridge. AD+/D-; 50°; 2350m. 1957-06-13First ascentWilfred Noyce & David Cox, 1957-06-13.
Normal route. Starts from the base camp of Machhapuchhare. Climbs on the west side of Annapurna glacier to the first high camp at the end of Tharpu Chuli glacier. From there easy terrain to to the north side of SE Ridge (camp 2 at 4900m). Third camp at the foot of NE Face (5500-5600m). Snow couloir to the foot of the 120m face. The lower part of the face is turned on the left and upper part is climbed through the face. Along the ridge to the summit serac.
  • O'Connor 150-1
  • Barrabes 23
SE face
  • O'Connor 152
Perun (Southeast Face). ED2; VI+/VI, 90, avg. 65°. 1995-10-06First ascentBojan Pockar, Ziga Petric, Ramesh Dolaras Chetri & Pasangnuri Sherpa, 1995-10-06.
  • Barrabes 23
Dutch route. TD/TD+; 90°. 2010-11-04First ascentWilliam van Meegdenburg & Cas van den Gevel, 2010-11-04.
South Ridge
The South ridge runs all the way from the col between Tharpu-Chuli and Singu Chuli. South ridge route gains the ridge from the east side much higher up.
South Ridge. IV AD; 2300m. 1987-01-01Singu Chuli, South Ridge, First ascent , 1987.
Up the glacier beneath the East Face to the South Ridge, culminating in climbing up a snow ramp which takes you above a serac band just below the ridge (around 6000m, suitable bivvy site). Along the ridge to the summit. Other sources may have a lot higher grades (D/TD), AD is given is Barrabes guidebook. It is possible the higher grade refers to integral South ridge.
  • O'Connor 151-2
  • Barrabes 23#4
West face
Significantly more difficult than East side of the peak. Additionally the col between Singu Chuli and Tarke Kang has been climbed as part of Annapurna I East ridge. Gaining the peak from there might be easier than West Face Rib route.
West Face Rib. ED-. 1982-09-01First ascentAlex McIntyre, Rene Ghilini & John Porter, 1982-09.
From the Annapurna Base Camp follow the South Annapurna Glacier until the lowest point of the face. Climb up the moraine towards an obvious spur. Follow the spur up pinnacles and steep ice until you reach the summit plateau, then follow a tricky (usually corniced) ridge to the summit.
  • O'Connor 152-3
  • Barrabes 23
  • Venables pp.128-129
Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)28.57238783.8833625663
Easiest of the trekking peaks climbed from Annapurna sanctuary.
1900-01-01
Event
SE Ridge
SE Ridge. AD; 2 days from base camp at 4200m. 1964-01-01First ascentKyoto University team, 1964.
  • O'Connor 147-8
  • Razzetti 70
  • Barrabes 24#2
West side
SW face. AD+; 1 day. 1980-01-01First ascentRick Allen & sherpa, 1980.
  • O'Connor 148
  • Barrabes 24#3
NW ridge. II/AD; 50°; 2 days from base camp at 4200m. 1965-05-24First ascentGunter Hauser & party, 1965-05-24.
Normal route. From the col between Singu Chuli and Tharpu Chuli.
  • O'Connor 154-7
  • Razzetti 70
  • SdN #13
  • Barrabes 24#1
Gandharba Chuli-Mardi Himal
Macchapucchare (Machhapuchhare)28.497583.9458333336993
very beautiful peak often regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains. The peak is sacred and currently banned from climbing. It has been climbed once before the ban with FA party leaving last meters unclimbed.
1957-01-01
Macchapucchare, ,
First ascent
Wilfrid Noyce & A. D. M. Cox
North ridge
North ridge. 1957-01-01First ascentWilfrid Noyce & A. D. M. Cox, 1957.
Climbed to within 50m of the summit but did not complete the ascent; they had promised not to set foot on the actual summit.
Gandharba Chuli (Gandharva, Gabelhorn)6248
1900-01-01
Event
SW side
SW spur & West ridge. 2013-01-01First ascentCosmin Andron & Cristina Pogacean, 2013.
Mardi Himal28.47653883.9293675587
Located to the south of Macchapucchare (not climbed from Annapurna Sanctuary). Grade of the normal route seem to vary a fair bit, Barrabes guidebook says AD+, while some others say F/PD-.
1900-01-01
Event
East flank
East flank. I AD+; 45°. 1961-01-01First ascentJack Roberst & sherpas, 1961.
Normal route. via col between East face and connecting ridge to Macchapuchhare.
  • O'Connor 125-6
  • Barrabes 25#1

Annapurna East

Annapurna II (Barathor)28.53584.12257937
The second highest peak of Annapurna Himal and the main peak in eastern part. North side of the peak is not far from Pisang village along Annapurna Circuit.
1960-05-17
Annapurna II, ,
First ascent
Party from UK
North side
West ridge from north. 1960-01-01First ascentJ.O.M. Roberts party, 1960.
South side
South spur. 1983-01-01First ascentTim Macartney-Snape party, 1983.
Annapurna IV28.53722222284.0838888897525
1955-05-30
Annapurna IV, ,
First ascent
Expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz
North side
North face & NW ridge. 1955-01-01First ascentExpedition led by Heinz Steinmetz, 1955.
Lamjung Kailas28.48833333384.1883333336983
1974-04-25
Lamjung Kailas, ,
First ascent
Philip Neame, Derek Chamberlain
Lamjung Kailas West28.48666666784.1708333336900
1976-04-28
Lamjung Kailas West, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp

Damodor Himal

Peaks in Damodor Himal are usually climbed from very popular Annapurna Circuit trek. Trekking route goes through Thorong la and continues towards SE with Damodor peaks in the north and Annapurna Himal in the south.

Chulu group

Chulu West28.74376984.0226226630
Highest but probably the least climbed of the Chulu peaks despite not being overly technical.
1900-01-01
Event
SE Ridge
SE Ridge. IV PD+. 1978-01-01First ascentH. Biller, F. Lobbichler & J. Wellenkamp, 1978.
  • SdN #15
NW Ridge
NW Ridge. PD+/AD; 3 days. 1974-11-04First ascentDr. Larry Zaroff, Peter Lev, Ang Jambo sherpa & Lhakpa Nuru, 1974-11-04.
round Gusang Peak from north.
  • O'Connor 173-4
  • SdN #15
  • Barrabes 27#2
Chulu Central6558
Can be climbed with Chulu West trekking permit
1900-01-01
Event
NW Face
NW Face. PD/AD. 1981-09-16First ascentRudolf Schietl, Kevin O'Connell, Sonam Gyao sherpa & Sonam Ghottar sherpa., 1981-09-16.
  • O'Connor 174-5
  • Barrabes 27#1
SW face
Chulu East28.73605584.0345536220
1900-01-01
Event
NE Ridge
NE Ridge. PD+. 1979-05-01First ascentDick Isherwood, John noble & party, 1979-05.
  • O'Connor 170-171
  • Razzetti pp.77
  • Barrabes 29#3
Chulu Far East6060
Can be climbed with Chulu East trekking permit
1900-01-01
Event
SW Ridge
SW Ridge. II PD-/PD; 45°. 1955-01-01First ascentJ. Wellenkamp, H. Biller & F. Lobbichler, 1955.
  • O'Connor 171-3
  • Razzetti pp.77
  • SdN #15
  • Barrabes 30#4
Pisang Peak28.64736184.1868596091
1900-01-01
Event
SW Face
SW Face. PD-/PD; 2 days. 1955-01-01First ascentJ. Wellenkamp, 1955.
Normal route. Base camp at 4380m, C1 at 5100m.
  • O'Connor 166
  • Razzetti 74
  • Barrabes 26#1

Khamjung group

Jomsom Peak6120
1900-01-01
Event
South Ridge
South Ridge. III/PD. 2003-01-01First ascentFrédérique Gaume, Hugues de Varax, Yves Exbrayat, Paulo Grobel & Migma Sherpa, 2003.
  • SdN #17

Pheri Himal

Group of peaks located on Tibetan border and approached from Phu Khola.

Ratna Chuli28.86416666784.3757035
1996-10-14
Ratna Chuli, ,
First ascent
Osamu Tanabe, Santa Bahadur Ale, Kashuhiko Sawada & Durhe Bahadur Tamang
South Face & West Ridge
South Face & West Ridge. V AD. 1996-10-14First ascentOsamu Tanabe, Santa Bahadur Ale, Kashuhiko Sawada & Durhe Bahadur Tamang, 1996-10-14.
  • SdN #16
Panbari Himal I (Cho Himal)28.71833333384.48256905
2006-09-29
Panbari Himal I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Lugula Himal28.89583333384.2591666676899
2010-11-02
Lugula Himal, ,
First ascent
Party from F
Cheo (Cheo Himal)6820
1991-10-13
Cheo, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Panbari Himal II (Athahra Saya Khola Himal)28.73584.4916666676767
2011-10-27
Panbari Himal II, ,
First ascent
Party from F
Khumjungar28.88944444484.1277777786759
1982-05-25
Khumjungar, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Bhrikuti (Bhrikuti Shail)6364
1900-01-01
Event
South Face
South Face (South ridge/face). Snow, III PD. 2005-01-01First ascentDenis Flaven, Paulo Grobel & Bikram Singh, 2005.
Chako6704
1900-01-01
Event
SW ridge
SW ridge. 2008-07-24First ascentKazuhisa Kamisaka, Akio Omura, Hari Bahadur Chaulagai & Ang Phuri Lama, 2008-07-24.

Gurkha (Manang)

Located to the east of Annapurna. The giant of the area is Manaslu (8163m). Technically easy Himlung Himal is another famous peak in the area.

Nemjung group

Smaller group located a bit to the west of Manaslu group and to the north of Annapurna Himal. The group consists of ridge system running generally towards SW on the east side of Phu Khola valley system from Himalayan main chain with Phu Kang (6694m) - Himlung Himal (7126m) - Himjung (7092m) - Nemjung (7139m) - Tilje (6530) - Kang Guru (6981). There is major side branch towards west from between Nemjung and Tilje which contains Gyaji Kang (7074m).

Nemjung group

Nemjung28.73666666784.41757139
1983-10-27
Nemjung, ,
First ascent
Junji Kurotaki’s Japanese expedition
East side
East ridge. 1983-01-01First ascentJunji Kurotaki’s Japanese expedition, 1983.
South side
South spur. ED+; 2300m, 45 pitches, 6 day roundtrip. 2009-10-16First ascentYannick Graziani & Christian Trommsdorff, 2009-10-16.
West side
The ridge had been attempted several times bouth from north and south prior to first successful ascent.
West face & West ridge. 1000m. 2009-10-20First ascentOsamu Tanabe, 2009-10-20.
Himlung Himal28.77166666784.42257126
Apparently there has been difficulties in locating the correct peak. In fact it appears that several parties thinking to have attempting Himlung have indeed been attempting significantly more difficult further south. This includes Japanese expedition in 1983 which turned up making the first ascent of Nemjung.
1992-10-03
Himlung Himal, ,
First ascent
14-member Japanese expedition led by Yukio Niwa
West side
Normal route from west (West ridge). V F; 2276m. 1992-01-01First ascent14-member Japanese expedition led by Yukio Niwa, 1992.
Himjung (Himlung II, Nemjung Goth)28.757584.4163888897092
2012-09-20
Himjung, ,
First ascent
Ahn Chi-young & Kim Chang-ho
NW face
NW face (Korean route). 5.10+, WI4 M6. 2012-10-13First ascentAhn Chi-young & Kim Chang-ho, 2012-10-13.
FAhn and Kim received the seventh annual Asian Piolet d’Or for the ascent.
Gyaji Kang (Nemjung West)28.73333333384.3716666677074
1994-10-07
Gyaji Kang, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp/Np
Kang Guru I28.65833333384.30256981
Peak located on the east side of Phu Khola valley, more or less opposite trekking peak Pisang (in Chulu group of Damodor Himal). It is the dominating peak at the southern end of Nemjung group.
1955-07-02
Kang Guru I, ,
First ascent
Heinz Steinmetz, Fritz Lobbicjler & Jürgen Wellenkamp
West side
NW ridge. 1955-01-01First ascentHeinz Steinmetz, Fritz Lobbicjler & Jürgen Wellenkamp, 1955.
SW face to West ridge. 1982-10-12First ascentStipe Božic, Branko Šeparovic & Vladimir Mesaric, 1982-10-12.
Normal route. Advanced base camp and two high camps.
West face. 1982-05-02First ascentIkuo Yoshita, Ang Temba sherpa & Tsering sherpa, 1982-05-02.
West face & SE ridge. 1984-05-01First ascentKang Byoung Ho, Pasang Norbu sherpa, Jangbu sherpa & Pasang sherpa, 1984-05-01.
SW ridge. 1981-04-27First ascentYoshichiko Segi, Daizo Yamamoto, Hiruyasu Sugita, Nawang Choklang sherpa & Ang Temba sherpa, 1981-04-27.

Manaslu group

Manaslu (Manangula)28.5584.5608333338163
  • Manaslu (Manangula) (8163m28.5584.560833333)
  • Manalu East (7992m)
1956-05-09
Manaslu, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
  • Kammerlander, Hans & Lücker, Walther: Bergsüchtig. Isbn: 9783492041300. Piper, 1999.
NE side
Normal route climbs NE flank from Naike Col (5494m) and joins upper North ridge for the final part. Several other routes have been climbed from the same base camp.
East ridge.
NE face & East ridge. 1986-11-11First ascentArtur Hajzer & Jerzy Kukuczka, 1986-11-11.
NE face. 2006-05-08First ascentSerguey Samoilov & Denis Urubko, 2006-05-08.
Northeast Flank (Japanese Route). Snow, VII/AD-/Rus 6A. 1956-05-09First ascentT. Imanishi and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu from NE Flank, 1956-05-09.
Normal route. via Naike Col and North Col.
SE face
SE face and South ridge. 1984-10-20First ascentAlexander Lwow & Krzysztof Wielicki, 1984-10-20.
SW face
SW face. 1972-05-25First ascentReinhold Messner, 1972-05-25.
West face
Judged 'Impossible without wings' by H.W. Tilman
West face. 1981-10-07First ascentPierre Beghin & Bernard Muller, 1981-10-07.
NW side
NW ridge. 1971-05-17First ascentKazuharu Kohara & Motoyoshi Tanaka, 1971-05-17.
Himalchuli28.43666666784.647893
  • Himalchuli West (7540m)
  • Himalchuli (7893m28.43666666784.64)
  • Himalchuli North (7371m)
1960-05-24
Himalchuli, ,
First ascent
Hisashi Tanabe & Masahiro Harada
North side
Ukrainian route (NE ridge & face to NW ridge). 80°. 2008-05-19First ascentSergey Bublik, Yuri Kilichenko, Andrey Kiyko, Maksim Perevalov, Sergey Pugachev & Vladimir Roshko, 2008-05-19.
15km ridge from Lidanda Pass to summit.
South side
Peak has been climbed by various routes on SE, South and SW sides.
South face to SW ridge. 1978-01-01First ascentYoshio Ogata’s Japanese team, 1978.
Sickle ridge (SW face). 1960-01-01First ascentHisashi Tanabe & Masahiro Harada, 1960.
To col between West and Main summits, then along SW ridge to summit.
SW ridge Integral. 1984-01-01First ascentAmerican expedition, 1984.
South flank of West Summit to join Japanese route in its upper reaches.
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura)28.50333333384.5666666677871
1979-05-08
Ngadi Chuli, ,
First ascent
Party from Pl
East side
East ridge and face. 1970-10-19First ascentHiroshi Watanabe & Lhakpa Tsering, 1970-10-19.
West side
West buttress. 1979-05-08First ascentRyszard Gajewski & Maciej Pawlikowski, 1979-05-08.
Manaslu North6994
1964-10-25
Manaslu North, ,
First ascent
Party from NL
Larkya Peak (Thulo Larkye Peak)28.64540284.5325856249
  • Thulo Larkya Peak (6249m28.64540284.532585)
  • Sano Larkya Peak (5807m)
1982-01-01
Larkya Peak, ,
First ascent
Party from
West side
West Face & Ridge. II/PD. 1982-01-01Larkya Peak, West Face & Ridge, First ascent , 1982.
Baudha Peak6672
Located on SW ridge of Himalchuli
Lidanda Peak (Rani Peak)6693
Located on NE ridge of Himalchuli
1900-01-01
Event
South ridge
South ridge. 1970-01-01First ascentDutch team, 1970.

Mansiri Himal

Himalchuli West28.43527777884.6186111117540
1978-05-07
Himalchuli West, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Himalchuli North7371
1985-10-27
Himalchuli North, ,
First ascent
Party from SK

Ganesh

Located between Gurkha Himal in the West and Langtang in the east, separated from the latter by Trisuli river. Trisuli river valley is used to access eastern reaches of Ganesh.

While Ganesh (7406m), Ganesh V (6950m), Pabil (7101m) and Lapsang Karbo (7150m) are far higher, probably the most popular climbing destination of the area is trekking peak Paldor (5928m, group B), located in SE end of Ganesh.

Sringi Himal

Chamar28.55584.9441666677187
1953-06-06
Chamar, ,
First ascent
M. Bishop & Namgyal
NE ridge
NE ridge. 1953-06-01First ascentM. Bishop & Namgyal, 1953-06.

Ganesh group

Yangra Kangri I (Ganesh I, Yangra)28.39166666785.12757422
1955-10-24
Yangra Kangri I, ,
First ascent
R. Lambert, C. Kogan & E. Gauchat
Ganesh II (Ganesh NW, Toro Gompa Ri)28.37916666785.0566666677118
1981-10-16
Ganesh II, ,
First ascent
Party from Ger
Salasungo (Lapsang Karbo, Ganesh III)28.33585.1216666677110
1979-10-19
Salasungo, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp/Np
North side
North side. 1979-01-01First ascentJapanese team, 1979.
Pabil (Ganesh IV, Ganesh SW)28.34583333385.087101
1978-10-22
Pabil, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Ganesh V (Lapsang Karpo)
Summit on the long East Ridge of Ganesh III and sometimes nicknamed The Bat.
1980-04-21
Ganesh V, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
North ridge
North ridge. 1980-01-01First ascentJapanese expedition, 1980.
East ridge (East South East Ridge)
East ridge. 6a, M5/75°; 1250m. 2007-01-01First ascentAymeric Clouet, 2007.
Until 6741m subsidiary summit. 6,5km distance (with around 4km of corniced crest) with vertical gain of 2600m of which 1240m technical climbing.
South ridge
South ridge. 1987-01-01First ascentYashuhiko Matsuda, Koji Shibuya, Dorje Lama sherpa & Kusang Lama sherpa, 1987.
Paldor28.27747585.1835255928
Group B trekking peak.
1900-01-01
Event
East side
Tilman's ridge (NE Ridge). III PD+/AD+; 1730m, 5-7h. 1949-01-01First ascentTilman, 1949.
Normal route. Camp 1 due east of Fang (5200mm). Ridge proper starts at Windy Col.
  • O'Connor 111-3
  • Razzetti pp.110
  • Barrabes 20#1
SE Ridge (Cleare Ridge). III AD+; 55°. 1974-01-01First ascentJohn Cleare & Ian Howell, 1974.
From the col between fang ands Paldor.
  • O'Connor 113-4
  • SdN #12
  • Barrabes 20#2
West side
SW Buttress. D; 45-50°; 3h. 1986-01-01First ascentSandy Allen, 1986.
  • O'Connor 114
  • Barrabes 20
West Ridge. D+; 55 (200m)°; 3h. 1986-11-06First ascentNick Yardley, Gareth Yardley & Dave O'Dowd, 1986-11-06.
  • O'Connor 114
  • Barrabes 20
West face (Corredor Oeste). D-.
  • Barrabes 20
Paldor Oeste5500
  • Barrabes 20
Fang5500
1900-01-01
Event
  • Barrabes 19
East side
Dalgwa Yeohoon (East face to South ridge). 2007-09-29First ascentPark Su-seok, Tshering sherpa & Wangdi sherpa, 2007-09-29.
South side
South Flank of West ridge. 1980-01-01First ascentSepp Mayerl, Hermann Neumair & Ang Chhopal sherpa, 1980.
Ganesh VII6676
On the ridge running east from Ganesh I.

Langtang Himal

Langtang valley is located to the east of Ganesh and to the west of Rolwaling and Khumbu, directly to the north (30km) of Kathmandu. On the north side of Langtang valley rises Langtang Himal with Langtang II (6571m), Langtang Lirung (7205m, the highest peak accessible directly from Langtang valley), Yubra Himal (6035m) Tsanbu Ri (6760m), Yensa Tenji (6543m), Tsergo (5732m) and Tsergo Ri (4984m). In the west, at the end of Langtang valley, and on the southern side on valley rises Jugal Himal with Morimoto Peak (6750m), Bhemlang Karpu (5691m), Langshisa Ri (6151m), Gangchampo (Gang Chennpo, 6387m) and Naya Kanga (Gang-La Chuli, 5846m).

Jugal Himal also has plenty of high peaks that are not directly accessible from Langtang valley. They include Phola Gangchen (7661m), Porang Ri (7284m), Pungpa Ri (7443m), Dorhje Lakhpa (6966m) and Shisma Pangma (8048m). Jugal Himas reaches to the Tibetan side where it is called Baiku Himalaya, also Shishma Pangma is located in Tibet.

Langtang Himal

Langtang South

Naya Kanga - Ganja La - Gangchempo - Tilman's pass (W) - Urgyenmang - Lingshing Kangshurm - Tilman's pass (E) - Dorje Lakhpa.

Jugal Himal

Jugal main chain runs from NW towards SE and contains the highest peaks of the group culminating at Shisha Pangma, the only 8000m peak of the area.

Jugal Himal Western chain is formed by ridge running generally towards south from Porong Ri, just to the west of Shisha Pangma. The ridge contains several high peaks including: Godum (6447m) - Pethang Karpo - Gurkapo Ri - Leonpo Gang - Bhairab Takuta (6679m) - Gyalzen peak (6151m9 - Ladies peak (6000m) and Phurbi Chhyachu (6637m). This ridge is continuously high with no easy pass to the eastern side, although Hagen's col between Porong Ri and Godum (6447m) has been crossed. This main ridge has two major branches towards West: one from Gurkapo Ri a ridge containing Langshisa Ri and one from Leonpo Gang with Dorje Lakhpa. Langtang Himal southern chain connects to Jugal group at Dorje Lakhpa.

Baiku Himalaya

Gang Benchhen (Gang Beng Chen, Gang Benchen)28.55166666785.5458333337281
1982-04-21
Gang Benchhen, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp

Langtang North

Langtang Lirung28.25583333385.51757234
1978-10-24
Langtang Lirung, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Langtang Yubra (Yubra Himal)28.26817785.5755146048
Group A trekking peak, located on the north side of Langtang valley, to the east of Langtang Lirung. Very little information about routes and climbing history is available. Reportedly 4-5 days from Kyangjin Gompa.
Tsergo Ri5033
Regularly climbed without permit for acclimatization. Scramble (UIAA I, F).
Yala Peak28.228685.6285732
Easy snow peak. before it was added to NMA list of trekking peaks, the peak was regularly ascended without permit.
  • Razzetti 114
East face & NE ridge
Normal route. Snow, F; I; 1323m, 2 days from Kyangjin Gompa.
Normal route. Previously regularly climbed without permit.
  • Razzetti pp.114

Langtang South

Naya Kanga (Gangula Chuli, Gang-La Chuli)28.16838385.5486065846
Group B trekking peak. Most commonly climbed via normal route from East side along North (NE) ridge. Regaularly climbed by commercial trekking agencies.
1900-01-01
Event
East side
Naya Kanga is most commonly climbed form the east.
East face and North ridge. Snow, II PD+/AD-; 900m, 1 day round trip from high camp. 1900-01-01First ascentUnlknownb, possibly Bill Tilman.
Normal route. Ice and snow. Accross flat glacier shelf below East face (crevasses), then gain North ridge by following narrow couloir to the right of rock buttress (can be climbed directly at about uiaa III). It is also possible to climb directly the prominent central couloir of East face to join normal north ridge route to the last part to the summit.
North face
North face "Dutch route". D-/D; Sco II/III/60°, II; 700m, 7h. 1999-01-01First ascentMembers of Utrecht Students' Alpine Club (USAC)?, 1999.
Almost pure ice ascent with short section of mixed climbing on the lower part of the face. Summit ridge may be corniced.
West ridge "Scottish route". D-/D; Sco III/60°, III; 700m, 10h. 1989-01-01First ascentFoster, McEwan, McGlashean & O'Reilly, 1989.
Mixed climb along the west ridge.
South side
East Ridge from Ganja La. (Via Bishop). AD+/D-. 1900-01-01First ascentGeorge Bishop party.
  • Barrabes 21#2
South Face.
Gangchempo (Gang Chennpo, Fluted Peak)28.16902785.6782536387
Picturesque peak with steep fluted ice face dominating the end of Langtang valley.
1900-01-01
Event
SW Ridge
SW Ridge and South face. 1990-01-01First ascentNepalese team, 1990.
    South Face
    South Face. 60°; ca. 500m.
    Beautiful face of ice and firn. From Langhisa Kharka (4164m) at the head of Langtang valley. Camp 1 at 4800, Camp 2 (5500m), Camp 3 at 5800 on the glacier bowl below south face. Approach involves crevassed glaciers and serac danger.
    West Ridge
    West Ridge.
    More difficult than SW Ridge.
    NW face
    Urgyenmang (l'Urgyenmang)6151
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West Ridge
    West Ridge. Snow/ice, III/D. 1999-05-15First ascentMartine Girod, Francois Damilano, Vincent Sprungli & Gombu sherpa, 1999-05-15.
    • SdN #10

    Jugal Himal

    Jugal west chain

    Lonpo Gang (Leonpo Gang, Big White Peak)28.19583333385.7991666676979
    1962-05-03
    Lonpo Gang, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Gurkarpo Ri28.21055555685.7772222226891
    2007-11-01
    Gurkarpo Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Pierre-Oliver Dupuy, Marc Kia, Jean Francois Males & Paolo Grobel
    West ridge (WSW ridge)
    Some more Rice? (West ridge, WSW ridge). D. 2007-11-01First ascentPierre-Oliver Dupuy, Marc Kia, Jean Francois Males & Paolo Grobel, 2007-11-01.
    Pemthang Karpo Ri (Dome Blanc)6830
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SW ridge
    SW ridge. 1955-01-01First ascentSwiss expedition, 1955.
    Long and exposed.

    Jugal main chain

    Shisha Pangma (Shishapangma, Gosainthan)28.352585.7791666678012
    • Shisha Pangma (Shishapangma, Gosainthan, Xixabangma, Peak 23) (8012m28.352585.779166667)
    • Shisha Pangma Central (Shisha Pangma Middle) (7999m)
    • Shisha Pangma West (7950m)
    Shishma Pangma means 'the crest above the grassy plain'. The Sanskrit name of the mountain Gosainthan means 'home of the goods'. Shisha Pangma is considered to be one of the easier 8000 peaks. Regular ascents are carried out from North (Tibetan side). Climbs on SW face are quite a bit more difficult and accessible from Langtang in Nepal.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • Scott, Doug K. & Macintyre, Alex: Shisha Pangma - The Alpine Style First Ascent of the Southwest Face. Isbn: 9780898867237. Mountaineers Books, 2000.
    • Abelein, Manfred: Shisha Pangma - Eine deutsche Tibetexpedition bezwingt den letzten Achttausender. Isbn: 9783785702598. Lubbe, 1980.
    • Fanshawe, Andy & Venables, Stephen: Himalaya Alpine Style - The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks. Isbn: 9780898864564. Mountaineers Books, 1996.
    • Sale, Richard & Cleare, John: On Top of the World. Isbn: 9780002201766. Collinswillow, 2000.
    • Kielkowski, Jan: The Shisha Pangma Mountains. Isbn: 9788361050933. Explo Publishers, 2013.
    North face
    All North face routes are gained by crossing below NW face and crossing the north ridge. North ridge follows the ridge over Middle summit to main summit, the other routes venture to the north face from the ridge at various levels.
    Austrian route. 1980-10-13First ascentEgon Obojes & Ewald Putz, 1980-10-13.
    Traverse from North ridge on the central part to East ridge (gained through couloir) and to main summit.
    NW Face and North Ridge (Northern route, Chinese route, Chinese traverse). Snow/ice, VI PD/Rus 6A; 45°; 3400m, camps usually at 6350, 6950 and 7350m. 1964-05-02First ascentChang Chun-yen, Chen San, Cheng Tien-Liang, Dorji, Hsu Ching, Mimar Trashi, Sodnam Dorji, Tontan, Wang Fu-chou & Wu Tsung-yueh, 1964-05-02.
    Normal route. One of the most popular routes of any on a 8000 meter peaks.
    North ridge (NW ridge). 1987-09-18First ascentElsa Avila, Carlos Carsolio, Ramiro Navarrete, Wanda Rutkiewicz & Ryrick Warecki, 1987-09-18.
    North ridge integrale to Central summit and further to main summit.
    SW face
    2200m ice/mixed SW face is significantly steeper than northern aspect, but not extreme. British route is an important landmark in Himalayan alpine- style history while the Polish/Swiss route is considered the easiest on the face and it provides the shortest and quickest climb to the summit of any eight thousand. That is to say 10,5h for Ueli Steck, probably somewhat longer for most others. Most parties wanting to descent to south side have descended SE ridge to 7300m col between Shishapangma and Pungpa Ri followed by long descent of huge 45degree snow/ice slopes trending diagonally west.
    Polish/Swiss (Left hand couloir). Snow/ice, 55°; 2200m. 1990-10-02First ascentWojciech Kurtyka, Jean Troillet & Erhard Loretan, 1990-10-02.
    Climbs a similar gully to the Peapod on the 1982 route but on the left (west) side of the Main Summit. The line heads for the col between the west and Central summits, but it is best to break out right 200m beneath the col, taking a subsidiary couloirs direct to the Central summit (FA party stopped there). Entirely on snow and ice never steeper than 55 degree, this route provides the shortest and quickest climb to the summit of any eight thousand.
    Korean route. 2002-05-05First ascentYeon Ryong Kang & Jung Hun Park, 2002-05-05.
    Left hand side of the Central buttress.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #22
    Central Buttress (Slovenian route). Sco IV/V/50-65°, V; 2200m. 1989-10-19First ascentAndrej Stremfelj & Pavle Kozjek, 1989-10-19.
    Up the right hand side of buttress between the two central gully lines.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #21
    British route (Righ hand couloir). Mixed, Sco IV/60°, V; 2200m, 1-3 days. 1982-05-28First ascentDoug Scott, Alex Macintyre & Roger Baxter Jones, 1982-05-28.
    Fairly direct line to reach broad snowy couloirs which emerge just east of the summit. For the most part on snow and ice, there is one section of quite hard mixed (Scottish 4) to reach the base of the final "Peapod". FA was made in alpine style, which was a major breakthrough for alpine style climbing on high peaks in the Himalayas. Scott's book describes the ascent.
    Far right couloir (Wielicki couloir, Wielicki route). V, 45-50°; 2200m, 1-3 days. 1993-10-07First ascentKrysztof Wielicki, 1993-10-07.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #17
    Corredor Girona. 1995-09-24First ascentJ. Permanter & C. Figueras, 1995-09-24.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #17
    Pungpa Ri col. 1989-10-20First ascentViktor Groselj & Filip Bence, 1989-10-20.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #16
    NW face
    The face is accessed from the normal route between Camp 2 (7000m) and 3 (7200m) depending on the route
    NW face left hand (L'Esprit Couloir, Vall de Boi). 60-70°. 1990-06-12First ascentB. Chamoux, Y. Detry, A. Hinkes, J. Rakoncaj, M. Rossi, P. Royer & F. Valet, 1990-06-12.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #10
    NW face right hand. 50°. 1987-09-24First ascentAlan Hinkes & Stene Untch, 1987-09-24.
    Central couloir of NW face to Central summit and continuation to main summit.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #9
    West ridge (Kukuczka route). IV-V. 1987-09-18First ascentArtur Hajzer & Jerzy Kukuczka, 1987-09-18.
    Deviates from normal route at Camp 2 (7000m) from where it climbs the West ridge directly and continues over West and Central summit to Main summit. Kukuczka skied down from near the summit. This was his last of fourteen eight-thousanders.
    Phola Gangchen (Molamenqing)28.35585.8091666677703
    East side
    By Phola firn field and Shisha Pangma Shar La. 1981-05-14EventB. Farmer & R. Price, 1981-05-14.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #38
    Porong Ri (Xifeng, Polong Ri)28.38916666785.727292
    NE flank
    Northern flank & NE ridge. 1982-05-17EventY. Eto & M. Wada, 1982-05-17.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #1
    Langtang Ri28.38166666785.6833333337205
    High peak with a relatively straightforward SW ridge above Tilman’s Col. However, approach from Langtang valley is very long and tedious.
    1981-10-10
    Langtang Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Pungpa Ri7443
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SE side
    SE face. 1987-01-01EventLuke Hughes & Stephen Venables, 1987.
    SW side
    SW couloirs and ridge. 45°, IV. 1982-05-19EventDoug Scott, Alex MacIntyre & Roger Baxter-Jones, 1982-05-19.
    • Shisha Pangma Mountains #32

    Dorje Lakhpa ridge

    Dorje Lhakpa (Dorje Lakhpa)28.17416666785.7791666676966
    1981-10-19
    Dorje Lhakpa, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp/Np

    Gurkapo-Langshisa

    Langshisa Ri (Lanshisa Ri, Langsisa Ri)28.21721485.7142166427
    Group A trekking peak. Located on a ridge running west from Gurkapo Ri. According to Himalayan Index, the following routes have been climbed: South Ridge, South face (SW side), SW Ridge and W-NW face.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SE Ridge
    SE Ridge. 3 days.
    Normal route. Access from Langtang village via Kyangjin Gompa and Langhisa Kharka (4164m). From there through glaciated Tilman's Pass below Gangchempo. Grade 1 scrambling up moraine to camp 1 at 5400m. Further along easy rocks to glacier (C2 at 5750m). 400m (8-9 pitches) of ice 55/60 to gain ridge at ~6100m. From there along the ridge to summit.
    South face
    South face. 3 days. 1982-04-23First ascentHirosh Inoue, 1982-04-23.
    SW Ridge
    WNW face
    WNW face. 80°. 1994-01-01First ascentVanja Furlan, 1994.

    Rolwaling Himal

    Gaurishankar Himal

    Gaurishankar Himal is the northernmost group of Rolwaling Himal and contains Himalayan main chain section: Gauri Shankar (7145m) - Chekigo (6257m) - Kang Nachugo (6735m) - Kang Korob (6705m) - Pangbug Ri (6716m) along which runs Nepal-Tibet border. Of the peaks located on the ridge, at least Gaurishankar has been climbed from Tibet side. The highest peak of Rolwaling is Melungtse (7181m) which lies to the north of the ridge, entirely in Tibet.

    Lumding Himal

    Lumding Himal is a more or less east-west chain rising to the west of Namche Bazar.

    Forms an impressive 5km ridge with four distinct summits. Rising south-west of Namche Bazar (3440m) above the Bhote Kosi river, the mountain's northern flank forms an impressive barrier that throws down several steep ridges to the north. It's glaciated southern flank is more aloof. It is hidden at the northern end of the Lumding Drangka, a high and remote valley. All of the routes climbed to date on the Kwangde Peaks are difficult, the routes on the North Face (Hungo Face) particularly so (~ED). Group B trekking peak.

    Sorong Himal

    Sorong Himal is a group located to the south of Lumding Himal and west of Lukla and Namche Bazar. The group is connected to Lumding Himal by a ridge joining Thyangmoche and Numbur Shar.

    Gaurishankar Himal

    Melungtse (Jobo Garu, Pinyin)27.972586.4316666677181
    • East (Main) (7181m27.972586.431666667)
    • Melungtse (Jobo Garu, Pinyin) (7010m)
    Highest peak of Rolwaling Himalaya. The peak has a long summit ridge capped by the east (main) summit and the west summit (Melungtse II, 7023m). The mountain's steep faces make it very demanding climb on all routes, not that are that many.
    1982-01-01
    Melungtse, ,
    Event
    Illegal attempt by Bill Denz on South East Ridge
    1992-10-23
    Melungtse, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Slo
    North face
    SE face
    2000m
    SE face. TD; 2000m. 1992-10-23First ascentMarko Prezelj & Andrej Stremfelj, 1992-10-23.
    West face
    West face/SE face of West peak. VI, 75°; 2000m. 1988-05-23First ascentAndy Fanshawe & Alan Hinkes to West summit., 1988-05-23.
    • Venables pp.141-145
    Gaurishankar (Gauri Shankar, Gauri Sankar)27.96416666786.3357145
    • Shankar (North) (7145m27.96416666786.335)
    • Gauri (South) (7010m)
    1950-01-01
    Gaurishankar, ,
    Event
    First attempts to climb Gauri Sankar were made in the 1950s and 1960s but weather, avalanches and difficult ice faces defeated all parties.
    1979-05-08
    Gaurishankar, ,
    First ascent
    John Barry, Peter Boardman, Tim Leach, Guy Neithardt & Sherpa Pemba Lama
    • +Belles, pp151
    North face (NE face)
    South summit, NE face. 2009-01-01First ascentJapanese party, 2009.
    Shankar, West face (Shankar, SW face)
    West face. A3; 2800m, 66 pitches. 1979-05-08First ascentJohn Roskelly & Dorje Sherpa, 1979-05-08.
    Normal route. One of the hardest routes at the time (and given the palmares of John Roskelley, that is certainly saying quite a bit), reportedly more technical than Eiger North face. Original 1979 line is unrepeated. 1984 variation by Wayne Culbreth and Ang Kami Sherpa is easier on the upper section but also more exposed to objective danger.
    Gauri, South side
    Perhaps the most imposant feature of the peaks, despite not leading directly to either of the summits. Was dismissed by most mountaineers as being too steep and technical. It tops out on a rounded crest at 6,800m, behind which there is a slight dip before a long, gently-angled, triangular snow slope rises to the south summit.
    SE ridge. 1984-01-01First ascentJapanese party, 1984.
    Longer than SW ridge, perhaps easier.
    Peine Prolongée. ED+; WI5+ M5 A1; 1900m. 2013-10-23First ascentMathieu Detrie, Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier & Jerome Para, 2013-10-23.
    SW ridge from the south. 1983-01-01First ascentSlavko Cankar, Smiljan Smodie & Bojan Sret, 1983.
    Joins 1979 SW ridge route at 6500m.
    Gauri, SW ridge
    Four-five kilometre corniced crest to Gauri.
    • Tseringma Glacier
    South summit, SW Ridge. 1979-11-09First ascentJohn Barry, Peter Boardman, Tim Leach, Guy Neithardt & Sherpa Pemba Lama, 1979-11-09.
    Gaurishankar South6983
    1979-11-09
    Gaurishankar South, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Tengi Ragi Tau (Angole)27.857586.5541666676968
    2002-12-04
    Tengi Ragi Tau, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    2009-01-01
    Tengi Ragi Tau, East pillar,
    First ascent
    East pillar: Jordi Corominas & Oriol Baro
    East side
    East pillar. ED; V/M5,A1; 1000m. 2009-01-01First ascentJordi Corominas & Oriol Baro, 2009.
    The pair reached 6600m foresummit but did not go to main summit.
    Takargo (Thakarmo, Dragkar-Go)27.87586.5116666676771
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Dangnok Ri (Drangnak Ri)27.93916666786.5233333336757
    1995-04-30
    Dangnok Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK/Nor/Np
    Punta Perazio6120
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NE Face
    NE Face. Snow, II D. 2006-05-15First ascentCaroline Goffin, Granciois Damilano, Bernard Donnou, Paulo Grobel, Desh Gurung, Eric Moncrocq, Jean-René Talopp & ChhoTemba sherpa., 2006-05-15.
    • SdN #7
    Chekigo27.90683186.4134796257
    1900-01-01
    Chekigo, ,
    Event
    Thought to have been climbed by a route of around AD+
    • AAJ 2005, pp388
    South face
    Shiva - straight to the top. AI5/5+, M6; 1200m. 2014-11-01First ascentJordi Corominas, Manu Córdova & Jonatan Larrañaga, 2014-11.
    West face
    West face. Snow, AD+; 55°. 2005-05-15First ascentBruce Normand & Oliver von Rotz, 2005-05-15.
    Takargo6771
    1900-01-01
    Event

    Lumding Himal

    Nupla (Kwangde South)5885
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NE Ridge
    NE Ridge. Mixed, VI-. 1900-01-01First ascentRob Burnoe, Pemba Norby sherpa, Jim Traverso & Eric Bland.
    • O'Connor 61
    Kwangde (Kongde Ri, Kwangde Lho)27.886.6166676187
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Hungo face
    1200m high north fgace has several very difficult ice routes.
    • From Namche Bazaar
    Japanese route. ED3; 1200m. 2002-01-01First ascentIto & Nakagawa, 2002.
    Lowe-Breashears. Ice, ED2/nccs VI WI6 X; VII/WI6 X; 1400m. 1982-12-03First ascentJeff Lowe & David Breashears, 1982-12-03.
    Mandala (Spanish route). Ice, ED; WI6; 1150m. 1985-01-01First ascentAngel L. Minoz & Juan Antonio Lorenzo, 1985.
    Located to the right of Lowe-Breashears.
    Les Voies Normales N'ont Rien d'Extraordinaire. Ice, ED2; WI5+; 1150m. 2006-01-01First ascentStephane Benoist & Frederic Gottardi, 2006.
    South face
    South ridge (Nepalese route). III AD/D; 1500m. 1975-10-17First ascentLhakpa Tenzing, Sonam Gyalzen, Shambhu Tamang & Sonam Hisi. A bit unclear, they might have climbed Shar., 1975-10-17.
    Normal route. From Lmding valley. base camp before Lumding la (4700m), 2 high camps (first at 5100m at Lumding Tscho Teng, the second at the upper part of the Lumding glacier).
    South ridge (Ball-Pilling). 1984-01-01First ascentJohn Ball & Trevor Pilling, 1984.
    • Barrabes 12#2
    Kwangde Shar6093
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Hungo face
    British variant to Extra Blue Sky. Sco VII,6. 2000-01-01First ascentCartwright & Chinnery, 2000.
    Joins the upper NE spur.
    Extra Blue Sky. ED2; 1200m. 1996-01-01First ascentBeaugey, Profit, Rhem & Ruby, 1996.
    Papert-Richards. Ice, 1900-01-01First ascentInes Papert & Corey Richards.
    The ascent is featured in movie Continuum Project.
    NE Ridge
    NE Ridge. D+; 900m. 1978-10-01First ascentLindsay Griffin & Roger Everett, 1978-10.
    South Face
    South Face (Greman route). TD-. 1972-01-01First ascentKarl-Dieter Fuchsberger, Helmut Schaeer, Franz Bischof, Wolfgang Reichart & Franz Durschmidt, 1972.
    Kwangde Nup6035
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North side
    South side
    South Face & Ridge. AD+. 1984-01-01First ascentJohn Ball & Kurt Arenoe, 1984.
    • O'Connor 59-60
    • Barrabes 13#7
    Tengkangpoch (Thenkangpoche, Thyangmoche)6487
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North Pillar
    Unclimbed despite some attempts. Dubbed "the Line" on Mountain Info. Involves hard big wall climbing on the steep 400m headwall.
    NE face
    Moonlight. ED; 1900m. 2008-11-01First ascentHiroyoshi Manome & Yasushi Okada, 2008-11.
    Love and Hate. D+/TD-; Sco V,5. 2003-01-01First ascentNick Bullock, 2003.
    South side
    East Ridge. 1984-01-01First ascentTrevor Pilling & Andy Zimet, 1984.
    NW face
    Checkmate. VI,A0, M7+ WI5; 1700m. 2008-04-28First ascentUeli Steck & Simon Anthamatten. First authorized ascent of the mountain., 2008-04-28.
    Edge of Darkness. TD+/ED1; Sco IV. 2004-01-01First ascentNick Bullock & Nick Carter, 2004.
    Chukyima Go6259
    NE of Ramdung Go
    Ramdung Go (Ramdung, Ramdang Go)27.81873486.4313325930
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NE Ridge
    NE Ridge & South face. III PD-. 1952-01-01First ascentScottish Expedition, 1952.
    • O'Connor 88-9
    • Razzetti 123
    • Barrabes 16#1
    Yalung Ri5630
    NW of Ramdung Go
    1952-01-01
    Yalung Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from
    East face
    East face. PD-. 1952-01-01Yalung Ri, East face, First ascent , 1952.
    • Barrabes 16#2
    Likhu Chuli Shar (Pigpherago Shar)6719
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West Ridge
    West Ridge. 1960-10-21EventCécile Barbezat & Nawang Dorje, 1960-10-21.
    Pacharmo (Patchamo, Pachermo)27.83619286.5472036273
    Small snowy summit on the long North Ridge of Likhu Chuli I (Likhu Chuli Shar, formerly Pigpherago Shar: 6719m).
    1900-01-01
    Event
    East face
    East face. ED.
    • Barrabes 15
    NW Ridge
    NW Ridge. II PD+. 1955-04-18First ascentDennis Davis & Phil Boultbee, 1955-04-18.
    • O'Connor 92
    • Razzetti 124
    • SdN #8
    • Barrabes 15#1
    Pahamlahaka6141
    1900-01-01
    Event
    SE Ridge
    SE Ridge. III TD; 6b. 2004-10-23First ascentJean-Marc Clerc, Martial Dumas & Erwan Le Lann, 2004-10-23.
    • SdN #6

    Shorong Himal

    Numbur27.75416666786.57256965
    1963-05-29
    Numbur, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Khatang27.75777777886.5958333336790
    1982-10-31
    Khatang, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp

    Mahalangur Himal

    Khumuche Himal

    Khumuche Himal is south-north chain located to the north of Namche Bazar between Bhote Koshi in the west and Gokyo valley in the east.

    Taboche-Cholatse

    Group located between Gokyo valley in the west and Khumbu valley in the east.

    Lobuche-Nirekha

    Group located between Gokyo valley in the west and Khumbu valley and to the north of Taboche-Cholatse group.

    Khumbu Himal

    Khumbu Himal main chain

    Changtse Ridge

    Northern ridge branches at Everest main summits and runs towards NE to Raphu La separating Rongphu glacier in west and Ronphu Shar glacier in east. There is prominent side ridge that branches at Everest NE Shoulder (8370m) and runs towards north to Chang La (7042m) and further to Changtse (7543m).

    Kharta Himal

    Ridge towards NE from Everest.

    Nuptse-Pokalde

    Ridge runs west from Lhotse Main summit towards Dingboche (SW) separating Khumbu (north) and Imja (south) valleys. Nuptse is located on the ridge.

    Makalu Himal

    Makalu Himal is a continuation of Everest - Lhotse chain towards SE from Lhotse Sar. The group consist of three principal summits from NW towards SE: Chomo Lonzo, Makalu II (Kangchungtse) and Makalu.

    Barun Himal

    Barun Himal consists of a long ridge falling towards south from a little to the east from Lhotse Sar with Cho Polu, Baruntse and Chamlang located along the main ridge. Side brands extends to wets from Baruntse containing Ombigainchan and Ama Dablam.

    Charpati Himal

    Small group located to the east of Lukla, Namche Bazar and Tengpoche. The groups consists of south-north ridge with Kusum Kanguru in the south and Kangtega in the north and east-west side branch from Kangtega towards Namche Bazar containing Thamserku. The same ridge extends also to east over Malamphuhah to Mingbo la (5845m) separating Charpati Himal from Barun Himal.

    Mera Himal

    Mera Himal is north-south ridge located to the east of Charpati Himal. Highest peak of the group in Peak 41 in the northern part of the group, immediately to the south of Ombigaichan. To the south of it and separated from it by Mera la (5415m) lies Mera Peak, by far the most climbed peak in the group.

    Jiuda glacier group

    Hongxing Ri (Ri-Ring)28.0986.8133333336927
    1921-07-05
    Hongxing Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK

    Changtse Ridge

    Changtse28.02583333386.9091666677543
    1982-10-14
    Changtse, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Ger
    Changzheng Ri (Ice Peak)28.06666666786.8983333336916
    1935-07-27
    Changzheng Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Jianbing Ri (Ridge Peak)6852
    1935-08-10
    Jianbing Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK

    Kharta Himal

    Kharta Phu (Khartaphu, Kardapu)28.06333333386.9766666677213
    1935-07-18
    Kharta Phu, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Lixin Ri I (Kellas' Rock Peak, Peak 7071)28.11166666786.91757078
    1935-07-23
    Lixin Ri I, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Kharta Changri (Kardachangri, Kaerdazhanggeli)28.11416666786.9933333337056
    1935-07-27
    Kharta Changri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Kharta Phu West (Xiangdong)28.06722222286.9519444447018
    1935-08-12
    Kharta Phu West, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Lhakpa Ri (Gardefui, Xang Dong Feng)28.037586.9691666676986
    1935-07-14
    Lhakpa Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Dongfang Ri I28.11166666786.95256966
    1935-08-25
    Dongfang Ri I, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Dongfang Ri II6948
    1935-07-24
    Dongfang Ri II, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Lixin Ri II6869
    1935-07-22
    Lixin Ri II, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK

    Shartse group

    Shartse27.96555555686.9833333337457
    1974-05-23
    Shartse, ,
    First ascent
    Party from A/Ger

    Lunag group

    Lunag Ri (South East Jobo Rinjang)28.042586.5656778
    2009-04-22
    Lunag Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from USA
    Lunag Ri (South East Jobo Rinjang)28.042586.5656778
    2009-04-22
    Lunag Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from USA
    Jobo Rimjang6778
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • +Belles, pp140
    South face
    South face Direct. 75°; 1700m. 2009-04-22First ascentDavid Gottlieb & Joe Puryear, 2009-04-22.

    Cho Oyu group

    Cho Oyu28.09416666786.6608333338188
    1954-10-19
    Cho Oyu, Herbert Tichy, Sepp Jöchler and Pasang Dawa Lama in 1954 via NW Flank. The ascent is recounted on Tichy's book 'Cho Ouy,
    First ascent
    Herbert Tichy, Sepp Jöchler and Pasang Dawa Lama in 1954 via NW Flank. The ascent is recounted on Tichy's book 'Cho Ouy: By Favour of the Gods'. This first ascent route is regarded as one of the easiest route to a 8000 meter peak.
    Gyachung Kang28.09833333386.7457952
    1964-04-10
    Gyachung Kang, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Ngozumpa Kang I (Ngojumba Kang)28.10583333386.6847222227916
    1982-11-02
    Ngozumpa Kang I, ,
    First ascent
    Party from SK/Np
    Ngozumpa Kang II (Ngojumba Kang II)28.10583333386.7058333337743
    1965-04-24
    Ngozumpa Kang II, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Nangpai Gosum I (Pasang Lhamu Chuli, Jasemba)28.072586.6141666677350
    1986-10-12
    Nangpai Gosum I, ,
    First ascent
    Katsushi Emura, Yukitoshi Endo, Katsuo Matsuki & Yoshihiro Shikoda
    Tibet side
    Tibet side. 1986-10-12First ascentKatsushi Emura, Yukitoshi Endo, Katsuo Matsuki & Yoshihiro Shikoda, 1986-10-12.
    South side
    South side. 2004-01-01First ascentSlovenian expedition, 2004.
    West ridge
    West ridge. 1996-01-01First ascentGroup led by Ang Phurba Sherpa, 1996.
    Route Hook or Crook (South face). VI, M5/90°; 1550m. 2009-10-29First ascentSimon Anthamatten, Samuel Anthamatten & Michael Lerjen, 2009-10-29.
    Nangpai Gosum I (Pasang Lhamu Chuli, Jasemba)28.072586.6141666677350
    1986-10-12
    Nangpai Gosum I, ,
    First ascent
    Katsushi Emura, Yukitoshi Endo, Katsuo Matsuki & Yoshihiro Shikoda
    Tibet side
    Tibet side. 1986-10-12First ascentKatsushi Emura, Yukitoshi Endo, Katsuo Matsuki & Yoshihiro Shikoda, 1986-10-12.
    South side
    South side. 2004-01-01First ascentSlovenian expedition, 2004.
    West ridge
    West ridge. 1996-01-01First ascentGroup led by Ang Phurba Sherpa, 1996.
    Route Hook or Crook (South face). VI, M5/90°; 1550m. 2009-10-29First ascentSimon Anthamatten, Samuel Anthamatten & Michael Lerjen, 2009-10-29.
    Siguang Ri (Palungtse)28.147586.6858333337309
    1989-04-21
    Siguang Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Pumori28.01586.82757161
    Pumori is one of the easiest 7000m peaks in Nepal.
    1962-05-17
    Pumori, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Ger
    Hungchhi (Hungcchi)28.03586.7583333337029
    2003-04-19
    Hungchhi, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Palung Ri (Qow Zab, Balung)28.12916666786.6433333337012
    1952-05-14
    Palung Ri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    South side
    SSE ridge. 1995-01-01First ascentAndrej Stremfelj & Marija Stremfelj via SSE ridge, 1995.
    South face. IV, M4/80-90°. 2007-09-19First ascentJordi Tozas, 2007-09-19.
    Siguang Ri Shar28.14416666786.716998
    1999-10-10
    Siguang Ri Shar, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Slo
    Pumori28.01472286.8280567161
    Pumori is one of the easiest 7000m peaks in Nepal.

    Everest group

    Mount Everest (Chomolungma, Sagarmatha)27.98833333386.9258333338848

    Mount Everest - The Jolly Big Hill. Tallest mountain in the earth is also knowns as Chomolungma (Tibetan, meaning 'Mother Goddess of the District') and Sagarmatha (Nepalese). Mount Everest is the hisghest mountain in the world and one of the seven summits.

    Mainly climbed from the the Nepalese side from Khumbu valley via south col and south ridge and from China side via north ridge. Several other routes exists but they are all more difficult.

    1900-01-01
    Mount Everest, ,
    Event
    First solo ascent by Reinhold Messner via North Col during the monsoon 1980. This ascent was particularly influential in introducing lightweight alpine style tactics to the highest mountains.
    1921-01-01
    Mount Everest, ,
    Attemp
    Britons became intrigued with reaching the top in the 1890s. Major C.G. Bruce's 1922 expedition was the first of several British attemps on the North Col. Nepal was closed for the westerners at the time, so the early attempts were made from the north side.
    1924-01-01
    Mount Everest, In 1924 George Leigh Mallory and Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine disappeared high up on the mountain. Their bodies were found in the spring of 1999, but the question remains open,
    Attemp
    In 1924 George Leigh Mallory and Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine disappeared high up on the mountain. Their bodies were found in the spring of 1999, but the question remains open: Did they reach the summit? All things considered, bearing in mind that they still had the second step to climb, it seems highly unlikely that they summited.
    1950-01-01
    Mount Everest, ,
    Attemp
    In the 1950s the entry to Tibet became impractical due the Chinese takeover, so new route was searched on Nepalese southern side of the mountain.
    1953-05-29
    Mount Everest, ,
    First ascent
    Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay
    1978-01-01
    Mount Everest, ,
    Event
    First ascent without bottled oxygen in 1978 by Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) via South Col.
    1980-01-01
    Mount Everest, ,
    First winter ascent
    Poles Leszach Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki via SE Ridge
    1988-01-01
    Mount Everest, ,
    First free ascent
    Lydia Bradey (New Zealand)
    1996-01-01
    Mount Everest, ,
    Event
    Hans Kammerlander
    1996-05-10
    Mount Everest, During the 1996 season, 10 climbers died in a day during the storm. Jon Krakauer's book 'Into Thin Air' recounts the tragedy. Though definitely most well known, Krakauer's book is not the only one about the same epic. Beck Weathers (client in Rob Hall's team) recounts his view of the tragedy in 'Left for Dead ,
    Event
    During the 1996 season, 10 climbers died in a day during the storm. Jon Krakauer's book 'Into Thin Air' recounts the tragedy. Though definitely most well known, Krakauer's book is not the only one about the same epic. Beck Weathers (client in Rob Hall's team) recounts his view of the tragedy in 'Left for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest' as does Lene Gammelgard (client in Scott Fischer's expedition) in 'Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy'. Fischer's team guide Anatoli Boukreev shares his view in 'The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest'. Rescuer's point of view is given by David Breashers in 'High Exposure'. Swedish soloist Göran Kropp was also on the mountain at the same time (Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey).
    2001-05-24
    Mount Everest, ,
    Event
    Marco Siffredi via Norton Couloir (North Face 8848-6400m)
    • World Mountaineering pp.244-251
    • Alpinist Mountain Profile, issues 26-27
    • Top Climbs pp.22-33
      North face
      North face rises above Rongphu Shar glacier. Framed by NE and North ridges and leads to NE shoulder (8403m). NE ridge (Pinnacles ridge)via NE Shoulder (8370m) - P. 7856 - P- 7125 - Raphu la (6501m, 5,5km, 2347m). North ridge from Chang La (North col, Changstse-Everest, 7042m). All routes join northern normal route at NE Shoulder (8403m).
      NE ridge (Pinnacles ridge). 1995-05-11First ascentNima Dorje, K. Furuno, S. Imoto, Pasang kami, Lhakpa Nuru & Dawa Tsering, 1995-05-11.
      From Ranphu La.
      • Kielkowski #25
      • World Mountaineering pp.248-249 #2
      Kangschung face (East face)
      5km wide and 3300m high east (Kangshung) face rising from Kangshung glacier at the end of Kharta valley. This and technical difficulty of the face make Kangschung face much quieter than the two other faces; there have been only few attemps and even fewer successful ones. Prominent East Rib (Fantasy Ridge) drops from P. 7856 on the North (NE) Ridge on the right-hand side of the face. Central Rib is the most prominent feature on the left-hand side.
      SE spur. 1988-01-01First ascentStephen Venables, 1988.
      To South col.
      • Kielkowski #60
      • World Mountaineering pp.250 #12
      East buttress (American buttress, Central buttress, Central rib). V+,A3. 1983-10-08First ascentCarlos Buehler, K. Momb & L. Reichardt, 1983-10-08.
      Very difficult climbing on the 1000m rock band on the lower part, V+, A3. Gains South ridge at 8475m.
      • Kielkowski #27
      • World Mountaineering pp.250 #13
      South side
      SW Face rises from West Cwm. Most prominent features of the face are huge central couloir running on the face and 500m high rock band. By far the most commonly climbed route on this side, and on the whole mountain for that matter, is classic south col route. The route is heavily equipped by commercial parties and highly frequented, independent climbing is no longer possible on any route that follows Khumbu Ice fall and Western Cwn.
      Central pillar (Soviet route). VI, 50-60°. 1982-05-04First ascentV. Balyberdin & E. Myslovski, 1982-05-04.
      Central Pillar dropping from P. 8296 on the West Ridge is even more difficult than the Polish pillar.
      • Kielkowski #35
      • World Mountaineering pp.250 #8
      Bonington route. 55°, V. 1975-09-24First ascentDougal Haston & Doug Scott, 1975-09-24.
      Bonington route climbs the couloir, then turns rock band on the left, traversing right to the SSE ridge above it to join the ridge at south summit (8749m).
      • Kielkowski #34
      • World Mountaineering pp.250 #9
      South pillar (Polish pillar). 45-55°, IV. 1980-05-19First ascentA. Czok & Jerzy Kukuczka, 1980-05-19.
      South Pillar (Polish Pillar) descends from South Summit.
      • Kielkowski #30
      • World Mountaineering pp.250 #11
      South Col route. VIII PD+/Rus 5A-B; 50°; 842m, 2km. One day round trip from South Col (ascent time 5-10h). 3500m 1953-01-01First ascentSir Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay, 1953.
      Normal route. By far the most popular route. The route climbs through the Khumbu icefall, Western Cwm and Lhotse face (50° fixed rope) up to the South Col (7906m, camp IV). From there there are several variations to join the south ridge (between 8150 and 8350), then continue along the ridge mainly on firn via South summit (8749m) and Hillary Step.
      • Kielkowski #28
      • World Mountaineering pp.250 #10
      West ridge
      From Lho la (6026m) over West Shoulder (7268m) and P8296. 6,5km long and drops 2850m. Several routes have been climbed from Lho la to West shoulder, all of them difficult. Lho La has also been climbed from Khumbu side. Access from the latter avalanche endangered and difficult at III-V).
      Yougoslav route. V, 50°. 1979-05-13First ascentA. Stremfelj & A. Zaplotnik, 1979-05-13.
      From Lho la climbs the face between between North spur of West shoulder and Everest West ridge, then along the ridge to the summit without major deviations.
      • Kielkowski #5
      • World Mountaineering pp.248-249 #7
      NW side
      2500m high NW flank rises from Rongphu glacier The flank has two very prominent couloirs: Great couloir (left hand couloir) and Hornbein couloir (right hand couloir). Both have been climbed (the former holds Australian route and Messner's solo route) and the latter has Japanese route and American route (Hornbein). There are also routes below north ridge to the left of Great couloirs. NNW Ridge (North ridge) is subsidiary ridge that drops from NE Shoulder (8403m) to Chang la (North col, 7042m). The ridge is 3 km long and rises 1480m to the shoulder. Chinese normal route follows NNW ridge.
      NNW Ridge from North Col (NE Ridge). Rus 5B. 1960-05-25First ascentWang Fu-chou, Chu Yin-hua & Gongbu, 1960-05-25.
      Normal route. Classic route attempted several times in the 1920's. The route is longer and the exposes climbers to high altitude for longer than time than South Col route. Technical difficulties are faced during the summit day. From BC with camps 1 (500m) and 2 (6000m) to Advanced base camp (6500m, 2 days from base camp). Next up to north col (Camp 4, 7050m, 2-3h from abc). More or less along the ridge with camps on 7990m and 8450m. From there to the summit via Yeallow Band, First Step, Second Step (30m of IV, fixed ladders), Third Step and summit pyramid. .
      • Kielkowski #19
      • World Mountaineering pp.248-249 #1
      Messner Solo route. 1980-08-20First ascentReinhold Messner, 1980-08-20.
      Traverses to Great Couloir from NNW Ridge.
      • Kielkowski #17
      • World Mountaineering pp.248-249 #3
      Australian route (The Great couloir direct, Norton couloir direct). 1984-10-03First ascentA. Henderson, G. Mortimer & T. Macartney-Snape, 1984-10-03.
      • Kielkowski #12
      • World Mountaineering pp.248-249 #4
      Japanese route. 60°, IV. 1980-05-10First ascentT. Ozaki & T. Shigehiro, 1980-05-10.
      • Kielkowski #10
      • World Mountaineering pp.248-249 #5
      Hornbein route (American route). 50°, IV. 1963-05-22First ascentTom Hornbein & Willy Unsoeld, 1963-05-22.
      From the Khumbu side climbs to West Ridge above West Shoulder (7268m), then along West ridge to around 7500m to traverse through NW Face and climbs Hornbein Couloir. The route is sometimes referred to as West Ridge, although it avoids both lower ridge as well as the uppermost part (it turns the ridge by climbing Hornbein couloir on the north face).
      • Kielkowski #37
      • World Mountaineering pp.248-249 #6
      • Hornbein, Thomas F.: Everest - The West Ridge, Reprint edition. Isbn: 9780898866162. Mountaineers Books, 1998.
      • Coburn, Broughton: The Vast Unknown - America's First Ascent of Everest, First Edition Edition edition. Isbn: 9780307887146. Crown, 2013.
    Lhotse27.96166666786.9333333338501
    • Main Summit (8501m27.96166666786.933333333)
    • Lhotse Middle (8430m)
    • Lhotse Shar (East Summit) (8386m)
    Located right next to Mount Everest on the Himalayan main ridge. Separated from Everest by South Col (7906m). Lhotse means 'south peak' as it stands immediately south of Mount Everest. Actually it was earlier considered to be Everest south summit. Lhotse is a mountain consisting of three summits. Three ridges join at the Lhotse main summit. One runs to north to South col and further to Everest, another to the west separating Khumbu and Imja valleys (Lhotse-Nuptse col 7545m and Nuptse 7864m) and third to east with Lhotle Middle, Lhotse Sar, Lhotse-Shartse Col (7577m) and Shartse (7594m). Normally climbed through the west face. 3000m South Face towards Imja valley was regarded as one of the last great problems in Himalaya (~V+, 60°). A Line leading to Lhotse Shar was climbed by Czech team in 1983. The line leading to main summit was climbed in 1990 by Russian team, which put Sergei Bozhov and Vladimir Karataev on the top. Slovenian Tomo Cesen claimed to have soloed the line earlier on the same year, but considerable doubt has been placed on his claim.
    1956-05-18
    Lhotse, ,
    First ascent
    Fritz Luchsinger & Ernest Reiss
    West face
    Most common way of climbing Lhotse. The face is 2000m high and has average inclination of 40°. Shares the base camp and lower part of the route with Everest South Col route and is thus heavily equipped by commercial parties and highly frequented.
    NW flank & North ridge. 2010-05-16First ascentDenis Urubko, 2010-05-16.
    Until south col along Everest normal route.
    Main, West face. 40-60°, IV; 2000m from Western Cwm. 1956-05-18First ascentFritz Luchsinger & Ernest Reiss, 1956-05-18.
    Normal route. From Western Cwm in Khumbu valley.
    • Kielkowski #78
    Middle, West face. 2001-05-22First ascentSerguei Timofeev, Peter Kouzentsov, Alexei Bolotov & Evgueni Vinogradski, 2001-05-22.
    South face
    3000m South Face towards Imja valley was regarded as one of the last great problems in Himalaya (~V+, 60°). A Line leading to Lhotse Shar was climbed by Czech team in 1983. The line leading to main summit was climbed in 1990 by Russian team, which put Sergei Bozhov and Vladimir Karataev on the top. Slovenian Tomo Cesen claimed to have soloed the line earlier on the same year, but considerable doubt has been placed on his claim.
    Shar, South face. 1984-05-20First ascentZoltan Demjan, 1984-05-20.
    Main, South face. 1990-10-16First ascentSergei Bozhov & Vladimir Karataev, 1990-10-16.
    Imja Tse (Island Peak)27.922586.9361116183
    • Main (6183m27.922586.936111)
    • SW summit (6098m)
    From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. Imja Tse is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The most popular trekking peak in Nepal.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North Ridge
    North Ridge. PD+. 1958-01-01First ascentAlf Gregory, Dick Cook & two Sherpas, 1958.
    The route follows the true right bank of Imja glacier and right bank Lhotse Sar glacier, then climbs northwest slopes to the col of North Ridge (5690m, possible high camp). North ridge rises from Imjatse La (5690m) to the main summit (1 km, 490m). Along the snowy and possibly corniced ridge to the summit. Little more difficult than the normal route.
    • Kielkowski #91
    • O'Connor 78
    South side
    SE Flank & SW Ridge. nccs III 45° A0/III PD/PD+; 45°; 1000m. 1953-01-01First ascentEvans, Gregory, Wylie, Tenzing & 7 sherpas, 1953.
    Normal route. Very popular route. The usual site for base camp is at Pereshaya Gyab at 5087m, between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier (threatened by avalanches). From the glacier straight up to the prominent couloir between two ribs. Above the couloir gain the right rib to gain the hanging glacier and summit ice wall (100m of 50°, fixed rope). Well acclimatized party can make the roundtrip to the summit in a day from base camp. However, most parties use one high camp above Pereshaya Gab (+/- 5700m).
    • Kielkowski #93
    • Razzetti 138
    • SdN #2
    • O'Connor 76-7
    West Face
    No recorded ascents

    Makalu Himal

    Makalu27.8987.0883333338463
    • Makalu (8463m27.8987.088333333)
    • Makalu SE (7860m)
    Fifth Highest mountain in the world and one of the hardest. Almost solely climbed from Barun glacier side (Nepal), where both South and NW sides share the same base camp. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.
    1982-01-01
    Makalu, ,
    Ascent
    Japanes team made the first ascent from Tibet
    NE side
    East ridge. 1995-05-21First ascentToshihiko Arai, Masayuki Matsubara, Osame Tanabe & Atsushi Yamamoto, 1995-05-21.
    South side
    West pillar. 1971-05-23First ascentBernard Mellet & Yannick Seigneur, 1971-05-23.
    SE ridge. 1970-05-23First ascentYuchi Ozaki & Haijme Tanaka, 1970-05-23.
    Over Makalu SE (7860m).
    NW side
    NW and North flanks (French route). 1955-01-01First ascentJean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Jean Franco, Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux, André Vialatte & Gyalzen Norbu, 1955.
    Normal route. From Makalu La (7410m) across North flank to join he uppermost NE ridge.
    NW ridge. 1981-10-15First ascentJerzy Kukuczka, 1981-10-15.
    From Makalu La (7410m). Essentially substantial shortcut to normal route. Kukuczka climbed solo, in Alpine style, without supplemental oxygen.
    West face. 1997-05-21First ascentAlexei Bolotov, Igor Bougatshevski, Yuri Ermachek, Nikolai Jiline & Dmitri Pavlenko, 1997-05-21.
    The ascent won the 1997 Piolet d'Or.
    Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo)27.93083333387.1083333337790
    • Northwest (7199m)
    • Central (7540m)
    • South (7790m27.93083333387.108333333)
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South Summit, Nepal side
    South Summit, Nepal side. 1954-10-30First ascentLionel Terray & Jean Couzy, 1954-10-30.
    South Summit, Tibet side
    South Summit, Tibet side. 1993-01-01First ascentKatsumasa Takahashi & Hiroaki Takeishi, 1993.
    relatively short but difficult ice spur in the centre of the objectively threatened face between the Chomo Lonzo Massif and Makalu II to join South ridge.
    Central summit, North Ridge
    Central summit, North Ridge. ED. 2011-05-21First ascentYannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff & Patrick Wagnon, 2011-05-21.
    North Summit, NW Ridge
    North Summit, NW Ridge. TD; M5; 1500m. 2011-05-07First ascentYannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff & Patrick Wagnon, 2011-05-07.
    North Summit, West face
    North Summit, West face. ED; M6/85. 2001-05-16First ascentStephane Benoist & Patrick Glairon-Rappaz, 2001-05-16.
    Kangchungtse (Makalu II)27.915833333333387.0788888897678
    1954-10-22
    Kangchungtse, ,
    First ascent
    Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, Gyaltzen sherpa & Pa Norbu sherpa
    West Face & SE Ridge
    West Face & SE Ridge. Snow, VI PD. 1954-01-01First ascentJean Franco, Lionel Terray, Gyaltzen sherpa & Pa Norbu sherpa, 1954.
    • SdN #25
    Chomo Lonzo Central (Lamalangzuo, Lhamalangcho)27.94194444487.1008333337565
    2005-05-21
    Chomo Lonzo Central, ,
    First ascent
    Party from F
    Chago27.92583333387.0533333336893
    1954-05-28
    Chago, ,
    First ascent
    Party from NZ

    Khumuche Himal

    Kyajo Ri (Kyazo Ri)27.90887986.6707996186
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NE face
    Hard.
    East face
    The mountain has a fine steep sweep of rock, 1000m high.
    Stealing Beauty. Rus 6A; 6b,A2, M6; 1150m, 28 pitches, 5 days. 2013-05-14First ascentVladimir Belousov & Martina Kopteva, 2013-05-14.
    SE Ridge
    Protected by steep towers, with good rock initially, though the rock seems to deteriorate further up.
    South side
    SW Ridge. AD-D; 65°. 2002-01-01First ascentVincent Marché & Duncan Wilson, 2002.
    Normal route. Via SE col (5700m) from Kyajo glacier.
    South Ridge
    Rotten rock and piles of stones.
    South Ridge. nccs V 5.9 AI3; 20h. 2005-01-01First ascentSeth Hobby & John Kear, 2005.
    Via 5550m col on SE ridge.
    Pharilapche (Pharilapcha, Machermo)27.92920486.6807566017
    • Pharilapche (Pharilapcha, West) (6017m27.92920486.680756)
    • Machermo (Machhermo, East) (5766m)
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NE face
    Most prominent feature of the peaks hosting several difficult routes.
    Korean route. nccs VI 5.9 A3 WI5+ M5; 1200m 1200m. 2010-12-17First ascentYoo Hak-jae, Hwang Gi-yong & Shin Dong-seok, 2010-12-17.
    Independence Day. WI5+, M7; 1300m. 2008-01-01First ascentMichal Krol, Andrzej Sokolowski & Przemek Wojcik, 2008.
    Japanese variant to "Bonfire of the Vanities". ED1; AI4 R. 2007-01-01First ascentFumitake Ichimura & Hiroyuki Nakagawa, 2007.
    Bonfire of the Vanities. ED1; WI4 M5; 1000m, 27 pitches. 2003-11-24First ascentSébastien Constant & Jérôme Mercader, 2003-11-24.
    East Ridge
    Oracle Night. III TD-; WI3+ M4; 750m. 2006-01-01First ascentSébastien Constant, Jean-Luc Bremond, Hervé Degonon & Cécile Thomas, 2006.
    South Face
    End of the Beginning. M4, WI3; 900m, 6h. 2007-01-01First ascentHalvor Dannevig & Nils Nielsen, 2007.
    SW Face
    The Bridge of Lost Desire. M4, WI3; 350m, 11 pitches. 2003-11-18First ascentSébastien Constant & Jérôme Mercader, 2003-11-18.
    NW Ridge
    above the low col between Pharilapcha and its western outlier, Dawa Peak (5,920m)
    • Machermo glacier
    NW Ridge. 2003-05-19First ascentIsrofil Ashurly, Valentine Grakovitch, Vladimir Shataev, Marcelo Rey Belo, Juliana Noda Bechara Belo, Josko Bozic, Stipe Bozic, Vladimir Mesaric, Viktor Groselj, Rafael Vodisek, Dinesh Devkota, Lakpa Sherpa, Namgyal Sherpa & Ongchu Sherpa, 2003-05-19.

    Taboche-Cholatse

    Taboche (Tawoche, Jobo Lhaptshan)27.89666786.77756542
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Direct North Face. VI AI5 R; 1500m. 2009-11-28First ascentFumitaka Ichimura & Genki Narumi, 2009-11-28.
    East face
    South ridge (SE pillar). 1300m. 1990-01-01First ascentJurgen Knapp & Axel Schlonvogt, 1990.
    SE face. 1300m. 1974-04-01First ascentLouis Dubost, Paul Gendre & Jacques Brugirard, 1974-04.
    East ridge. nccs VI 5.9 AI2; 1600m. 1989-12-11First ascentDavid Etherington & Jorg Schneider, 1989-12-11.
    ESE face. M5/60°; 1200m. 2005-01-01First ascentUeli Steck, 2005.
    Direct NE face. nccs VII 5.11 M6; 10 days. 1989-02-13First ascentJeff Lowe & John Roskelley, 1989-02-13.
    • Roskelley, John: Last Days, 1st edition. Isbn: 9780811708890. Stackpole Books, 1991.
    NE pillar. ED3; Sco VI, A2; 43 pitches. 1995-01-01First ascentMick Fowler & Pat Littlejohn, 1995.
    Cholatse27.91805686.7666676440
    Group A trekking peak, previously climbed as expedition peak. All routes highly technical.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • +Belles, pp131
    SW Ridge
    SW Ridge. nccs VI 5.8; 20 pitches. 1982-04-22First ascentVern Clevenger, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell & Bill O'Connor, 1982-04-22.
    ENE face
    American Route. nccs VI AI5 5.9 A; 1800m, 39 pitches. 1984-01-01First ascentBibler, Freer, Jackson & Stewart, 1984.
    Variation with independent finish via East Ridge (WI5+ M6) by Seth Hobby and John Kea.
    Slovenian route. nccs VI M6 5.10c 90; 1700m. 2005-01-01First ascentHumar-Kozelj & Opresnik, 2005.
    North face
    French Route. nccs IV ED/nccs VI 90; 5+, M6; 1400m. 1995-01-01First ascentBadaroux, Batoux, Challamel, Mora & Robach, 1995.
    • SdN #4
    Russian route. Rus 6B; VI+,A2, 80°; 1600m. 37 pitches, 8 days. 2010-01-01First ascentAlexander Gukov, Viktor Koval & Valery Shamalo, 2010.

    Lobuche-Nirekha

    Lobuche East (Lobuje East)27.959586.7899446119
    NMA group B trekking peak in the Khumbu region. Lobuje East is one of the more difficult trekking peaks and few people actually reach the main summit. Often climbed along South Ridge, but most stop at presummit, as the route gets much more difficult from there. Furthermore, there are several interesting ice and mixed routes, particularly on the East Face. Generally accessed from Lobuche village.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    NE face
    Lots of potential for difficult ice and mixed routes.
    East side
    East Face Couloir. TD; Sco V; One day. 1986-01-01First ascentLowe & Kendal in spring 1986, 1986.
    From Lobuje village (4940m) to lake, from there to the foot of the face. Left side couloir to south ridge (at least four long climbing sections, max Scottish 5). From the col along the ridge to the summit.
    • O'Connor 67
    East Ridge. Rock, D. 1985-01-01First ascentTodd Bibler & Catherine Freer, 1985.
    South side
    South Ridge to Presummit. II PD+; 40-50°; 1000m. 1984-04-01First ascentNeilson & Ang Gyalzen, 1984-04.
    Via flank to South ridge (40-50°). High camp at the junction of ridges. From high camp along the snowy South Ridge to eastern summit (Lobuje Far East). PD. Most climbers stop here. Down to col and steeply to main summit. AD/D.
    • SdN #3
    • Razzetti 132
    • O'Connor 65-7
    South Ridge to True summit. III D. 1984-04-01First ascentLaurence Neilson & Ang Gyalzen, 1984-04.
    Normal route. Via flank to South ridge (40-50°). High camp at the junction of ridges. From high camp along the snowy South Ridge to eastern summit (Lobuje Far East). PD. Most climbers stop here. Down to col and steeply to main summit. AD/D.
    • SdN #3
    • O'Connor 65-7
    South Face. Rock, A2+.
    West side
    Night Terrors. Ice, nccs VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°; 37h. 2010-10-30First ascentJoel Kauffman & Jared Vilhauer, 2010-10-30.
    Narrow strip of ice in a corner or SW face.
    NW summit, West pillar. nccs VI 5.10 A3. 1991-01-01First ascentEric Brand & Pamba Norbu, 1991.
    Nirekha (Nirekhu)27.9780386.7616086159
    NMA group A trekking peak in the heart of the Khumbu. The peak is located in the same chain as the Lobuche summits, just E of the Cho La Col (not to be confused with the famous Cho La pass that is only a few hundred meters away). The summit consists of two summit pyramids, it is unclear which one is higher.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West Ridge
    West Ridge. Snow, AD+/D-. 2003-01-01First ascentMatt Fioretti and Greg Valentine, 2003.
    Abi (Cholo, Kangchung)27.98409486.7195516097
    Machermo - Dragnag - Chola la - BC (5200m)

    Nuptse-Pokalde

    Nuptse
    Nuptse lies on a east-west ridge forming the barrier between Imja and Kumbu glaciers. The ridge is connected to main ridge at Lhotse from where it runs for several kilometers to Nuptse West II without any deep passes. All routes on all summits are both long and difficult and have only handful of successful ascents. NW ridge of Nuptse West II is probably the easiest route on Nuptse, while Original South Ridge/Face has seen most ascents of the routes leading to main summit.
    1961-05-16
    Nuptse, ,
    First ascent
    Denis Davis & Tashi Sherpa<
    North side
    North Face from Western Cwm (North ridge). 1979-10-19First ascentGeorges Bettembourg, Brian Hall, Al Rouse & Doug Scott, 1979-10-19.
    South side
    One of the truly legendary big walls of the Himalayan mountains. 6km wide face is divided into three sections by two prominent pillars: left section above Nuptse glacier, Central section above Lhotse Nup glacier and right section above Lhotse glacier. The southeast pillar is legendary. Jeff Lowe, Mark Twight, Jim Elzinga, Pete Arbic, Barry Blanchard, Steve House, Marko Prezelj, have all tried it.
    Are You Experienced. M5/90°; 2000m. 2008-10-29First ascentStéphane Benoist & Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, 2008-10-29.
    South Ridge/Face. Firn, 50°. 1961-05-16First ascentDenis Davis & Tashi Sherpa, 1961-05-16.
    Normal route. From Chhukung La via left rib of the south face to Nuptse main.
    Moonlight Sonata (SE pillar of Nuptse East). ED+; 6b,A3; 2500m. 2004-01-01First ascentValeriy Babanov, 2004.
    West side
    West face of Nuptse (leading to pointu Nuptse West II) rises immediately above Everest BC on Khumbu glacier. Few variants of NW ridge on the lower part, all of which climb the upper ridge to pointy summit.
    NW ridge of Nuptse II (Japanese route). 1979-05-11First ascentJapanese expedition led by Haruo Kato, 1979-05-11.
    West face. 1997-10-31First ascentThomas Humar & Janez Jeglic, 1997-10-31.
    Kongma Tse (Khongma Tse, Mehra Peak)27.94452186.8386845820
    1991-01-01
    Kongma Tse, ,
    First ascent
    Party from
    South Face
    South Face Glacier. Glacier, PD.
    • O'Conner 71-2
    West Ridge
    West Ridge. 1991-01-01Kongma Tse, West Ridge, First ascent , 1991.
    Pokalde27.92586.8333335778
    • Main (North) (5778m27.92586.833333)
    • West (5700m)
    • Middle (5730m)
    • South (5700m)
    • East (5575m)
    Due to its accessibility Pokalde is very popular.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Chhukung (Chhukung Tse)5883
    Located on the left spur of Nuptse South Face along original 1961 South face of Nuptse main goes. The peak separated from the Spur by Chhukung La (5675m).
    Chhukung Ri27.93420986.907525546
    Non technical trekking peak located in Imja valley. Often used as a acclimatization climb. Located on a ridge running south from Nuptse main. There are at least two Cchukung peaks on the ridge, it is not clear whether the trekking peak is the one closest to Chhukung La (to which coordinates match but which according to map is significantly higher) or the one further south.
    F; 3-4h.

    Charpati Himal

    Kangtega (Kang Taiga)27.792586.8166666676783
    1963-06-05
    Kangtega, ,
    First ascent
    Party from NZ
    • Ice World, 245-9
    • +Belles, pp131
    NW face
    NW Peak, NW face. VII AI4+ WI4 M6; 7,000'. 1986-04-01First ascentTom Frost & Jeff Lowe, 1986-04.
    SW Peak, NW face. VII AI4+ WI4 M6; 7,000'. 1986-04-01First ascentmark Twight & Alison Hargeaves, 1986-04.
    Kyashar27.75586.82256770
    2003-10-18
    Kyashar, ,
    First ascent
    Bruce Normand, Andreas Frank, Sam Broderick
    Kusum Kanguru27.73055686.7908336369
    • West (5579m)
    • Central (6369m27.73055686.790833)
    • East (6356m)
    The name Kusum Kanguru comes from Tibetan meaning "Three Snow Peaks". Kusum Kanguru is an impressive and complex rock and ice peak with three summits and at least five major ridges and faces. The north face of the main summit, an ice wall 1800m, is the most spectacular one. The peak is (one of the) most difficult trekking peaks to climb, all possible routes are technically difficult and require normally at least one bivouac.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    Main summit, North face
    The face forms a large amphitheatre between the north buttress and the North-West Ridge approximately 1,500 metres (5,000feet) high. The main feature of the face is a large central couloir rising from a massive avalanche cone. In the upper half of the efface a network of flutings fan from the central runnel to the summit ridge. Several routes, all very difficult.
    • Approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar.
    • O'Connor 47-9
    Kurosawa. 1000m, 2 days. 1985-01-01First ascentKurosawa in spring 1985, 1985.
    Via West summit and NW ridge.
    Ball-Curtis. TD+; 1500m, 4 days. 1985-01-01First ascentJohn Ball & Tom Curtis, 1985.
    Through central couloir.
    Blanchard. nccs VI AI5+; VI/AI5+.
    Main summit, North ridge
    North Ridge. 70°, IV. 1979-01-01First ascentGeorges Bettembourge, Mike Covington & Doug Scott. 20m shy of summit., 1979.
    • O'Connor 49-50
    Main summit, NE ridge
    Ridge running to East summit.
    NE ridge. 2090m, 5 days. 1985-01-01First ascentAnton Zamabide, Eduardo Emmanuel Arrantz & Alejandro Arrantz, 1985.
    Main summit, SE side
    SE Face. Ice, 45-70°; 1010m, 3 days. 1979-01-01First ascentTakeshi Kanazawa, Hideo Naoi, Hajime Vematsu, Mansanori Miyano & Tomooh Toyoda in autumn 1979, 1979.
    • O'Connor 45-6
    SE Face, Kato route. ~TD+. 1981-01-01First ascentMinoru Kato & party of six, 1981.
    Normal route. Possibly the easiest route on the mountain.
    • O'Connor 46-7
    Main summit, SW side
    South Ridge (Dream Pillar). TD+. 1991-11-01First ascentStephen Venables & Dick Renshaw, 1991-11.
    South West Buttress and upper South Ridge.
    SW Buttress & West Face. 1981-10-01First ascentBill Denz, 1981-10.
    • O'Connor 50
    West ridge. 1982-05-03First ascentIkuo Yoshita, Anu Temba (May 2nd), Keichi Suto & Lhakpa Sherpa, 1982-05-03.
    Main summit, NW Ridge
    Connects West summit and main summit.
    East summit, north side
    NE ridge. D/TD; 2080m, 7 days. 1983-09-16First ascentDr. David Hopins, Guy Neithardt & Andrew Wielochowsi, 1983-09-16.
    Kangtega6685
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • Ice World, 245-9
    • +Belles, pp131
    NW face
    NW Peak, NW face. VII AI4+ WI4 M6; 7,000'. 1986-04-01First ascentTom Frost & Jeff Lowe, 1986-04.
    SW Peak, NW face. VII AI4+ WI4 M6; 7,000'. 1986-04-01First ascentmark Twight & Alison Hargeaves, 1986-04.

    Mera Himal

    Peak 41 ("Real Mera")6654
    Due to disparity in maps and trekking peak lists, this can/could be climbed with the permit of Mera Peak.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    West Face
    West Face. TD+; V/WI4/55-80°; 1500m from the saddle. 2002-10-16First ascentMatic Jošt, Urban Golob and Uroš Samec, 2002-10-16.
    Ice. First ascent took 2 days (bivouac at small col north of the summit (6500m). From there exposed ridge (50-65°)to the summit.
    Mera Peak27.786.8666676476
    • West (6255m)
    • North (6476m27.786.866667)
    • Central (6461m)
    • South (6065m)
    Mera has two distinct summits with the Northern one being the highest. Was considered to be the highest of Nepalese trekking peaks due to height disparity and is very popular. Easiest route is considered non-technical. Due to disparity in maps and trekking peak lists, the actual height of trekking peak Mera is 6476m, not 6654 (which is the height of much harder Peak 41).
    1900-01-01
    Event
    North Face
    North Face. III PD; Sco I/45°; 1400m. 1953-05-20First ascentFirst ascent (Eastern Summit) by Jimmy Roberts & Sen Tenzing via North face, 1953-05-20.
    Normal route. From the Mera La pass (5415m) connecting the valley of Hongu to the Hinku Valley. Base camp is usually at Khare base camp at the start of glacier leading to the Mera La (5099m, six days trek from Lukla). One or two high camps are customary (5385m, below Mera La and at 5800m). Glacier may be crevassed.
    • Razzetti 146
    • O'Connor 37-40
    • SdN #23
    West Face
    West Face. 1985-01-01First ascentKondo & Kiyoda, 1985.
    • O'Connor 40
    SW Pillar. Mixed, ED; 1800m. 1986-03-30First ascentDuff & Tattersall, 1986-03-30.
    • O'Connor 40-1

    Barun Himal

    Chamlang27.77586.9791666677319
    1962-05-31
    Chamlang, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Chamlang East7287
    1984-05-16
    Chamlang East, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Baruntse27.87166666786.9808333337129
    Beautiful snow and ice peak, regarded as one the most accessible among the 7000m peak in Himalaya.
    1954-05-30
    Baruntse, ,
    First ascent
    Geoff Harrow & Colin Todd via the South Ridge
    SE side
    SE Ridge (South Ridge). V PD+; 45-50°; 2400m. 1954-05-30First ascentGeoff Harrow & Colin Todd via the South Ridge, 1954-05-30.
    Normal route. Approach either from East (Lower Barun Glacier) or from West (Hongu Khola). Base camp at 5800m and ABC near the West Col (6135m). Customarily two high camps on the foot of South East ridge (6420m) and at 6650m.
    Hongku Chuli27.817587.0091666676833
    1952-06-13
    Hongku Chuli, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Ama Dablam27.86083333386.86256814
    Very beautiful symmetrical mountain in Khumbu region looking over the famous Tengboche monastery. In Sherpa language the name means "Mother's jewel box".
    1961-03-13
    Ama Dablam, ,
    First ascent
    Party from NZ
    • Alpinist Mountain Profile, issue 10
    SW face
    SW Ridge. IV D+ (TD+ if there were no fixed ropes); 5.5/IV,A0/5a, 45-55°/IV/WI4 M3+; 2200m, 4 days.
    Normal route. Very popular route, usually completely equipped with fixed rope from Camp I to the summit. Base camp at (4500m) and ABC at 5200m. Actual ridge is gained at 5800m between Ama Dablam and Kantega. Usually three high camps. Crux is a steep pitch at Yellow tower.
    • SdN #1
    South Face. VI AI5 M5+.
    Southeast face. VII/WI5.
    NE face
    NE face. VI, 90°; 1400m, 8 days. 1900-01-01First ascentCarlos Buhler & Michael Kennedy.
    NE face "Stane Belak Strauf Memorial Route" (Humar-Furlan). nccs VI 5.7,A2+ AI5; 1650m. 1900-01-01First ascentTomaz Humar & Furlan.
    Winner of Pioler d'Or.
    NW Ridge. VI, Sco VII; 2000m.
    More difficult than SW Ridge.
    North ridge. nccs VI 5.7; 1600m. 1979-01-01First ascentLouis Audoibet, Francis Chaud, Yva Estienne, Jean-Francois Magnificot, Raymond Renaud, Marc Salomez & Bruno Solomieux, 1979.
    East Ridge. VI, 80°. 1983-01-01First ascentAndre Georges & Alain Hubert, 1983.
    Hongku Chuli West27.82583333386.97756764
    1954-06-01
    Hongku Chuli West, ,
    First ascent
    Party from NZ
    Baruntse South East6752
    1952-06-14
    Baruntse South East, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    Cho Polu27.91916786.9819446734
    Locatede on a ridge leading south from Shartse to Baruntse and forming the eastern end of Imja valley system.
    1989-01-01
    Cho Polu, ,
    Event
    Trevor Pilling possible climbed the peak before he disappeared in Annapurna region
    SW side
    West face and SW ridge. TD; 80°; 1400m. 2011-11-21First ascentJordi Corominas, 2011-11-21.
    Ombigainchan (Puma Dablam)27.85258586.8836596340
    1900-01-01
    Event
    South side
    SW Ridge. AD/D; 50°. 2002-01-01First ascentVictor Saunders, Charless Burr, Jo Cleere & Marlies Sanders, 2002.
    Normal route. via Mingbo La (5815m, camp).
    SW face. Snow/ice, 55°; 800m.
    SE side
    SE side. 50°.

    Kangchenjunga Himal

    Khumbhakarna section

    Jannu is the highest peak of the Kumbhakarna Section of the Kangchenjunga Himal (using H. Adams Carter's classification), which straddles the border between Nepal and Sikkim, and lies entirely within Nepal. A long ridge connects it with Kangchenjunga to the east.

    Janak group

    Jongsong Peak (Jongsong Ri, Jomgsong Peak)27.88166666788.1341666677459
    • Jongsong Peak (Jomgsong Peak) (7459m27.88166666788.134166667)
    • Jongsang South Peak I (7322m)
    • Jongsang South Peak II
    Jongsong is the highest peak on five-kilometre-long, plateau-like summit, located at he eastern end of the plateau; the western end terminates in Janak (7041m). The wall is well defended from southern invaders by steep rock and ice walls c1000m in height.
    1930-06-03
    Jongsong Peak, North West Ridge and North West Face,
    First ascent
    North West Ridge and North West Face: Herman Hoerlin & Erwin Schneider
    2000-01-01
    Jongsong Peak, Touch of Silence,
    First ascent
    Touch of Silence: Urban Azman & Andrej Markovic
    North side
    North West Ridge and North West Face. 1930-06-03First ascentHerman Hoerlin & Erwin Schneider, 1930-06-03.
    • Frank Smythe: The Kangchenjunga Adventure. Isbn: .
    Touch of Silence (Central Couloir on the South East Face). VI/4; 1150m. 2000-01-01First ascentUrban Azman & Andrej Markovic, 2000.
    to Jongsang South Peak I.
    Dome Kang7246
    Janak Chuli I (Outlier)27.86722222288.0908333337035
    • Janak (Outlier) (7035m27.86722222288.090833333)
    • Janak East (6987m)
    2006-05-06
    Janak Chuli I, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Slo
    Lashar I27.89583333388.0533333336842
    2005-10-12
    Lashar I, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Slo
    Omi Kangri (Ohmi Kangri)27.89666666787.9641666676839
    1985-04-14
    Omi Kangri, ,
    First ascent
    Party from CH

    Khumbhakarna

    Jannu (Khumbhakarna)27.68166666788.0441666677711
    • Jannu (Khumbhakarna) (7711m27.68166666788.044166667)
    • Jannu East
    All routes are difficult, especially highly impressive North Face (Wall of Shadows) is especially attractive to climbers.
    1962-04-27
    Jannu, SE ridge,
    First ascent
    SE ridge: René Desmaison, Paul Keller, Robert Paragot & Gyalzen Mitchung Sherpa
    1976-01-01
    Jannu, Japanese route,
    First ascent
    Japanese route: Akiyma, Jofu, Katahir, Kawakami, Kawamura, Masatsugu Konishi, Konno, Kukada, Ogawa, Sakano, Sakashita, Samba, Sherpa, Sherpa, Sherpa, Suzuki
    2004-05-26
    Jannu, Russian Direct,
    First ascent
    Russian Direct: Borisov, Kiriyevsky, Pavlenko, Ruchkin & Totmyanin
    2007-10-21
    Jannu, West pillar,
    First ascent
    West pillar: Valeri Babanov & Sergey Kofanov
    1962-04-27
    Jannu, SE ridge,
    First ascent
    SE ridge: René Desmaison, Paul Keller, Robert Paragot & Gyalzen Mitchung Sherpa
    1976-01-01
    Jannu, Japanese route,
    First ascent
    Japanese route: Akiyma, Jofu, Katahir, Kawakami, Kawamura, Masatsugu Konishi, Konno, Kukada, Ogawa, Sakano, Sakashita, Samba, Sherpa, Sherpa, Sherpa, Suzuki
    2004-05-26
    Jannu, Russian Direct,
    First ascent
    Russian Direct: Borisov, Kiriyevsky, Pavlenko, Ruchkin & Totmyanin
    2007-10-21
    Jannu, West pillar,
    First ascent
    West pillar: Valeri Babanov & Sergey Kofanov
    North side
    Japanese route. ED+; 3200m. 1976-01-01First ascentAkiyma, Jofu, Katahir, Kawakami, Kawamura, Masatsugu Konishi, Konno, Kukada, Ogawa, Sakano, Sakashita, Samba, Sherpa, Sherpa, Sherpa, Suzuki, 1976.
    NW face to east ridge avoiding the steep headwall at the top of the face.
    Russian Direct. ABO/nccs VII 5.10d,A3+ M6; 3100m. 2004-05-26First ascentBorisov, Kiriyevsky, Pavlenko, Ruchkin & Totmyanin, 2004-05-26.
    West pillar (NW ridge, Magic Pillar). Rus 6B; VI/WI4+,M5/80°; 3000m. 2007-10-21First ascentValeri Babanov & Sergey Kofanov, 2007-10-21.
    South side
    SE ridge. 1962-04-27First ascentRené Desmaison, Paul Keller, Robert Paragot & Gyalzen Mitchung Sherpa, 1962-04-27.
    Ramthang Chang (Chang Himal, Wedge Peak)27.76583333388.0841666676802
    1974-10-05
    Ramthang Chang, ,
    First ascent
    Janez Gradisar, Bojan Pollak & Michael Smolej
    2009-11-02
    Ramthang Chang, Central spur,
    First ascent
    Central spur: Nick Bullock & Andy Houseman
    North face
    Central spur. Mixed, ED3; M6; 1800m. 2009-11-02First ascentNick Bullock & Andy Houseman, 2009-11-02.
    • Climb #61

    Kangchenjunga north

    Kirat Chuli (Tent Peak)27.78833333388.1958333337362
    1939-05-29
    Kirat Chuli, South ridge,
    First ascent
    South ridge: Ernst Grob, Herbert Paidar & Ludwig Schmaderer
    South ridge
    South ridge. 1939-05-29First ascentErnst Grob, Herbert Paidar & Ludwig Schmaderer, 1939-05-29.
    From Sikkim over Nepal Peak.
    Nepal Peak27.77694444488.1830555567168
    1939-05-27
    Nepal Peak, ,
    First ascent
    Ernst Grob, Herbert Paidar & Ludwig Schmaderer
    Pathibara (Pathibhara Chuli, Pyramid Peak)27.82083333388.1733333337123
    • Pyramid Peak (Pathibhara Chuli) (7123m27.82083333388.173333333)
    • NE summit (7090m)
    • Pathibhara Purba (The Sphinx) (6825m)
    1993-01-01
    Pathibara, South East Ridge,
    First ascent
    South East Ridge: Yoshio Ogata’s 16-member Indo-Japanese expedition
    2007-10-24
    Pathibara, SW face,
    First ascent
    SW face: Boris Lorencic & Miha Valic
    SE face
    South East Ridge. 1993-01-01First ascentYoshio Ogata’s 16-member Indo-Japanese expedition, 1993.
    SE ridge of Sphinx, then over NE summit to main summit.
    SW face
    SW face. 50-60°, IV; 1150m. 2007-10-24First ascentBoris Lorencic & Miha Valic, 2007-10-24.
    Langpo27.85333333388.19756965
    1909-09-13
    Langpo, ,
    First ascent
    Alexander Mitchell Kellas
    Langpo South6857
    1939-08-19
    Langpo South, ,
    First ascent
    Party from CH/Ger

    Kangchenjunga

    Gimmigela Chuli I (Gimmigela, The Twins)27.7488.1583333337350
    1994-10-29
    Gimmigela Chuli I, ,
    First ascent
    Taroh Tanigawa, Koji Nagakubo & Yuichi Yoshida
    2003-01-01
    Gimmigela Chuli I, South Face & West Ridge,
    First ascent
    South Face & West Ridge: Jean Annequin & Ludovic Challéat
    West side
    South Face & West Ridge. Snow/ice, III/D+. 2003-01-01First ascentJean Annequin & Ludovic Challéat, 2003.
    • SdN #27
    Gimmigela Chuli II (Twins II)7007
    1993-10-09
    Gimmigela Chuli II, ,
    First ascent
    Party from Jp
    Pangpema Peak6350
    2001-01-01
    Pangpema Peak, South Face,
    First ascent
    South Face: Jean Annequin, Christelle Montcourt, Ludovic Challéat & Suzanne Carrard
    South Face
    South Face. Snow, II PD. 2001-01-01First ascentJean Annequin, Christelle Montcourt, Ludovic Challéat & Suzanne Carrard, 2001.
    • SdN #26
    • Kangchenjunga (Kangchenjunga Main, Kanzhendzönga) (8586m)
    • Yalung Kang (Kangchenjunga West) (8420m)
    • Kangchenjunga Central (8496m)
    • Kangchenjunga South (8476m)
    • Kangbachen (7903m)
    The mountain is a complex of X-shaped ridges and four main summits. Two of the main ridges connect at main summit: (N)W ridge leads from main summit to Yalung Kand and further to Kangbachen and connects to Khumbhakarna group while N(E) ridge leads to Zuckehutl and North Col (6900m) between Kanchenjunga Main and Gimmigela. South ridge runs via Central summit to South summit, where East and South ridges separate. East ridge runs over P.7730 and P.7038 to Zemu Gap (5861m) while South ridge runs over several 7000 summits to Talung Saddle (6745m). Kanchenjunga is one the more difficult 8000ers and often conditions are hard due to winds and monsoon snow.
    • World Mountaineering pp.240-243
    • Herrligkoffer, Karl Maria: Sieg am Kanchenjunga - Die deutsche Erstbesteigung. Isbn: 978-3426037164. Droemer Knaur, 1987.
    Kangchenjunga (Kangchenjunga Main, Kanzhendzönga)27.702588.1483333338586
    1900-01-01
    Kangchenjunga, ,
    Event
    George Band & Joe Brown. Tony Streather & Norman Hardie reached the summit only one day later. Pierre Beghin (France) via SW Face
    1905-01-01
    Kangchenjunga, ,
    Attemp
    Fist climbing attemp made in 1905 by a party led by Briton Aleister Crowley
    1977-01-01
    Kangchenjunga, East face,
    Event
    East face: Indian Army expedition
    1979-05-16
    Kangchenjunga, British route,
    First ascent
    British route: Peter Boardman, Doug Scott & Joe Tasker
    1980-05-13
    Kangchenjunga, Japanese route,
    First ascent
    Japanese route: Ryoichi Fukada, Haruichi Kawamura, Naoe Sakashita, Syomi Suzuki & Ang Phurba
    1983-01-01
    Kangchenjunga, Warth,
    First ascent
    Warth: party led by H.Warth
    1985-01-01
    Kangchenjunga, ,
    First winter ascent
    Poles Jerzy Kukuczska and Kryzysztof Wielicki. Their partner Czech Andzej Czok died on the descent from pulmonary edema.
    1989-01-01
    Kangchenjunga, ,
    Ascent
    Traverse of four summits were made in 1989 by a party of 10 Russian climbers in two parties in reverse directions.
    North face
    British route (North col route). 1979-05-16First ascentPeter Boardman, Doug Scott & Joe Tasker, 1979-05-16.
    NW flank via North col (Gimmigela - Kanchenjunga) and North ridge. One of the milestones of alpine style in the highest peaks.
    • World Mountaineering pp.242 #4
    Warth. 45-70°, Severe/5.4. 1983-01-01First ascentparty led by H.Warth, 1983.
    Possibly the safest, but not the easiest, route to main summit, that bypasses avalanche danger zone that threatens Japanese route. Base camp at 5200m on the rand of Kanchenjunga glacier.Camp 1 at 5500m, Camp 2 at 6000m, Camp 3 at 6600m, Camp 4 at 7300m, Camp 5 at 7500m and Camp 6 at 7900m. Technical difficulties are mainly found between Camps 2 and 3 on short ice wall and gully (45°) and mixed rock band between Camps 4 and 5 (up to British Severe/YDS 5.4). Route was found by the party led by H.Warth in 1983. They didn't reach the summit. The route crosses Japanese 1980 route at upper terrace. Yougoslaw party climbed the route until upper terrace, from where the climbed to col between Kanchenjunga and Yalung Kang and finished onto the summit of the latter.
    Japanese route. 1980-05-13First ascentRyoichi Fukada, Haruichi Kawamura, Naoe Sakashita, Syomi Suzuki & Ang Phurba, 1980-05-13.
    Most direct route from the north side. Crossed by Warth route at the upper terrace.
    • World Mountaineering pp.242 #6
    East face
    East face.
    SW side
    Most commonly climbed aspect of the peak. The face has huge ice terrace at around 7000m, from where all four main peaks can be climbed. Most SW routes on any of the peaks meet here.
    Yalung Face (SW Route). 1955-05-25First ascentGeorge Band & Joe Brown. Tony Streather & Norman Hardie reached the summit only one day later., 1955-05-25.
    Normal route. From Yalung glacier (Base Camp at 5500m close to Pache's grave) via Yalung Face (SW side).
    • World Mountaineering pp.242 #1
    Yalung Kang (Kangchenjunga West)27.70588.1366678420
    1973-01-01
    Yalung Kang, SW ridge,
    First ascent
    SW ridge: Yutaka Ageta & Takeo Matsuda
    SW ridge
    SW ridge. 1973-01-01First ascentYutaka Ageta & Takeo Matsuda, 1973.
    Kangchenjunga Central27.69611188.1511118496
    1978-05-22
    Kangchenjunga Central, Polish route,
    First ascent
    Polish route: Wojciech Brański, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich & Kazimierz Olech
    SW side
    Polish route. 1978-05-22First ascentWojciech Brański, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich & Kazimierz Olech, 1978-05-22.
    Separates from Yalung Face (normal route) of Kanchenjunga main by large ice terrace.
    Kangchenjunga South27.69166788.1541678476
    1978-05-19
    Kangchenjunga South, Polish route,
    First ascent
    Polish route: Wojciech Wróż & Eugeniusz Chrobak
    1991-01-01
    Kangchenjunga South, Slovene route,
    First ascent
    Slovene route: Andrej Stremfelj & Marko Prezelj
    ESE ridge
    Includes Zemu Peak (7780m). Without doubt one of the major high-altitude mountaineering challenges
    SW side
    Polish route. 1978-05-19First ascentWojciech Wróż & Eugeniusz Chrobak, 1978-05-19.
    Separates from Yalung Face (normal route) of Kanchenjunga main by large ice terrace.
    Slovene route (South Summit, SW Pillar). VI,A1; 60°. 1991-01-01First ascentAndrej Stremfelj & Marko Prezelj, 1991.
    Awarded by Piolet d'Or.
    • World Mountaineering pp.242 #3
    Kangbachen27.71166788.1083337903

    Singalila group

    Kabru IV (Kabru North)27.63416666788.1183333337412
    1994-05-12
    Kabru IV, ,
    First ascent
    Indian army expedition
    Talung27.65416666788.1308333337349
    1964-05-19
    Talung, West & SW Ridge,
    First ascent
    West & SW Ridge: Franz Lindner & Tenzing Nanda Sherpa
    1991-01-01
    Talung, Slovenian route,
    First ascent
    Slovenian route: Marko Prezelj & Andrej Stremfelj
    2013-05-19
    Talung, Thumba Party,
    First ascent
    Thumba Party: Marek Holecek & Zdenek Hruby
    North face
    NNW pillar is the most intriguing feature of the mountain. It has been tried by few parties, so far none of them have been successful.
    SW side
    West & SW Ridge (SW flank to the upper west face). 1964-05-19First ascentFranz Lindner & Tenzing Nanda Sherpa, 1964-05-19.
    from the col north of Kabru and over Talung's South Peak.
      NW side
      Slovenian route (NW face to the upper west face). 1991-01-01First ascentMarko Prezelj & Andrej Stremfelj, 1991.
        Kabru North (Kabru II)27.61916788.1244447338
        1935-01-01
        Kabru North, ,
        First ascent
        C.R. Cooke & G. Schoberth
        Kabru South (Kabru I)27.60833388.1116677338
        1994-01-01
        Kabru South, ,
        First ascent
        Indian expedition
        Rathong6680
        Located immediately to the west of Kabru South and appears to merge with the main wall Kumbhakarna (Jano). Between Rathong and Jano lies the famous Yalung glacier.
        1964-01-01
        Rathong, ,
        First ascent
        West Rathong Glacier and icefall
        Koktang6148
        1982-01-01
        Koktang, ,
        First ascent
        SW face
        1991-01-01
        Koktang, ,
        First ascent
        North ridge