Kyangjin Gompa in the upper Langtang valley. Credit: Ari Paulin,  Shot on 2009-06-21 Photo taken in , Rasuwa, Nepal.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.
Kyangjin Gompa in the upper Langtang valley. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2009-06-21 Photo taken in , Rasuwa, Nepal.(c) Ari Paulin, licensed under: Copyrighted.

Punjab Himalaya

Punjab Himal is located in disputed Kashmir area. The area is notorious of the dispute between Pakistan and India. It's located north of the city of Islamabad and south of Karakoram, separated from it by the river Indus. The highest and by far the most famous mountain is Nanga Parbat, the westernmost of 8000m peaks, that rises far apart of other 8000m peaks of Himalaya. Nun Kun (7135m), located on Indian side of the border in Zanskar, is also reasonably well-known among climbers.

Nanga Parbat group

Nanga Parbat group contains few high peaks, most of which can be considered to be satellites of Nanga Parbat. Chongra is the other main peak of the group.

Nanga Parbat (Diamir)35.237574.598126
  • Main (8126m35.237574.59)
  • North Peak (7816m)
Nanga Parbat is the most westernly of the 8000 meter peaks and notorious of avalanches and fierce storms. It is a long ridge running in SW - NE direction. There are number of subsidiary summits and three major faces. S-SE side is the Rupal face, often considered the highest mountain face. N-NW side is a complex face split in two by a long ridge, NW face is known as Diamir face and NE as Rakhiot face. Nanga Parbat means in Sanskrit 'naked mountain'. All climbs are both serious and technically difficult. In addition, Nanga Parbat has the greatest vertical distance from base camp to the summit of 8000m peaks.
1895-01-01
Nanga Parbat, ,
Attemp
First attemp C.G. Bruce, Dr. J.N. Collie, G. Hastings and Alfred Mummery made first attemp in 1895 in lightweight alpine style. Mummery and two Gurkhas disappeared when trying to cross a pass between Rakhiot and Diamir glaciers.
1939-01-01
Nanga Parbat, ,
Attemp
Germans made several attemps in the 30ies. Most famous of them is the 1939 expedition during which the team was interned in India as the World war II broke out during the expedition. This began the saga of escape and travel in India and Tibet that is described in a book 'Seven Years in Tibet' written by Austrian member of the expedition Heinrich Harrer. It was filmed in 1990 whit Brad Pitt playing Harrer.
1953-01-01
Nanga Parbat, Rakhiot face,
First ascent
Rakhiot face: Hermann Buhl. He was a member of expedition led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer. Herman Buhl's book 'Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage' describes the first ascent. This is very legendary ascent during which Buhl endured a bivouac at over 8000m.
1962-01-01
Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route,
First ascent
Kinshofer Route: Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mennhardt & Siegi Löw. They were members of expedition led by Karl Maria Herligkoffer.
1970-01-01
Nanga Parbat, Messner Direct,
First ascent
Messner Direct: Reinhold Messner & Gunther Messner. On the descent via Diamir Face Gunther perished. Messner returned in 1978 to solo a new route on Diamir Face (book by Messner: 'Nanga Parbat Solo'.
1976-01-01
Nanga Parbat, Schell route,
First ascent
Schell route: H. Schell, R. Schauer, H. Sturm & S. Gimpel
1978-01-01
Nanga Parbat, Messner solo route,
First ascent
Messner solo route: Reinhold Messner
1985-01-01
Nanga Parbat, Polish Spur,
First ascent
Polish Spur: J. Kukuczka, Z. Heinrich, C. Carsolio & S. Lobodzinski
2005-09-06
Nanga Parbat, Central Pillar,
First ascent
Central Pillar: Steve House & Vince Anderson
2008-01-01
Nanga Parbat, ,
First ascent
: Kehrer & Nones
  • Harrer, Heinrich: Seven Years in Tibet, 1 edition. Isbn: 9780874778885. Tarcher, 1997.
  • Messner, Reinhold: Solo - Nanga Parbat. Isbn: 9780195201963. Oxford Univ Pr (T), 1981.
  • Märtin, Ralf-Peter: Nanga Parbat - Wahrheit und Wahn des Alpinismus. Isbn: 9783833300936. BVT Berliner Taschenbuch Verlag, 2003.
  • Buhl, Hermann: Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage - The Lonely Challenge. Isbn: 9781898573272. Baton Wicks Publications, 1998.
  • House, Steve: Beyond the Mountain. Isbn: 9780979065958. Patagonia Inc, 2009.
  • Buhl, Hermann: Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage - The Lonely Challenge. Isbn: 9781898573272. Baton Wicks Publications, 1998.
Diamir Face (NW Face)
Subject to avalanches. Central rocky rib is known as Mummery rib, which would be a direct route to the summit, but it has not been climbed (has been used in descent by Messner brothers in 1970 though).
  • Approach via Karakorum highway via Rowalpindi to Genar Farm or Bunar Das. Access to base camp is multi-day hike through Bunar and Diamir valleys. Base Camp is located on a big plain under Diamir Face at 4500m.
Kinshofer Route. IV-V, 90°; 3900m, usually 3-4 high camps. 1962-01-01First ascentToni Kinshofer, Anderl Mennhardt & Siegi Löw. They were members of expedition led by Karl Maria Herligkoffer., 1962.
Normal route. Route to the left of the actual face avoiding the worst objective hazards.
Messner solo route. 1978-01-01First ascentReinhold Messner, 1978.
Located to the right of Mummery Rib. Highly dangerous and unrepeated.
Rakhiot Face (NE face)
Rises 7000m above Indus river in just 27km.
  • From Rakhiot Bridge along Karakoram Highway toTatu Village. From there to fairy Meadow (3300m, 3-4h from Tatu village) and further to base camp.
Rakhiot face. 1953-01-01First ascentHermann Buhl. He was a member of expedition led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer. Herman Buhl's book 'Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage' describes the first ascent. This is very legendary ascent during which Buhl endured a bivouac at over 8000m., 1953.
Very long and ardurous route with usually at least five high camps via Rakhiot Peak and NE Ridge. Technically easiest route but very serious due to avalanche danger.
NW Spur. V, 65°.
Significant shortcut of Rakhiot face route. Joins Rakhiot face route at 7350m.
2008-01-01First ascentKehrer & Nones, 2008.
Central route directly up the face to Silver Plateau.
Rupal face (South face)
4600m high Rupal face is often regarded as the highest mountain face.
Schell route. 1976-01-01First ascentH. Schell, R. Schauer, H. Sturm & S. Gimpel, 1976.
On the left of Rupal face proper.
Messner Direct. 4500m. 1970-01-01First ascentReinhold Messner & Gunther Messner. On the descent via Diamir Face Gunther perished. Messner returned in 1978 to solo a new route on Diamir Face (book by Messner: 'Nanga Parbat Solo'., 1970.
Through the central part of Rupal face. Crux of the route is Merkl Gully (70).
Central Pillar (Anderson-House). nccs VII 5.9 M5 WI4; WI4 M5 5.9; 4100m. 8 days round trip 4500m. 2005-09-06First ascentSteve House & Vince Anderson, 2005-09-06.
Polish Spur. 1985-01-01First ascentJ. Kukuczka, Z. Heinrich, C. Carsolio & S. Lobodzinski, 1985.
Mazeno Ridge
SW Ridge of Nanga Parbat from Mazeno Pass (5377m) over seven Mazano peaks to Mazano gap (6700m) and further along SW Ridge to the summit. Including eight 7000m peaks. Divides Diamir and Rupal Faces of Nanga Parbat. Unclimbed in its entitity although parts of it has been climbed. About 10km in length. Several attemps from big name teams including the likes of Doug Scott, Wojciech Kurtyka and Steve Swenson.
  • Mazeno glacier
Mazeno35.22574.5558333337120
2004-08-15
Mazeno, ,
First ascent
Party from USA
Rakhiot (Rakhiot Peak)35.25861111174.6380555567070
1932-07-16
Rakhiot, ,
First ascent
Party from Ger
Chongra35.32416666774.6733333336830
1971-08-21
Chongra, ,
First ascent
Masahiko Kaizu, Kiyoshi Hara, Tamiya Takahashi

Tibet

Tibetan Himalayas consist of two chains: Lower Transhimalaya located in southern Tibet, between main Himalayan Crest and Yarlung Tsangpo river in the south and Kunlun Shan and Altyn Tagh in NW and Greater Himalaya covering various sectors of Himalayan main crest. Many of the highest peaks act as natural border, therefore some of the peaks that lie in Tibet may have been covered in other section, it the corresponding sector of Himalaya is predominantly located in other countries.

Most of the highest peaks are located in Greater Himalaya chain, in the southernmost part of the Tibet, immediately on or very close to the border. The highest peak located wholly in Tibet is Cho Ouy. Of other Himalayan 8000 peaks, also Shisha Pangma and Everest are regularly climbed from Tibet. That being said, Transhimalaya also has several very high peaks, culminating at Nyenchen Tanglha (7147m), Sepu Kangri (6950m), Loinbo Kangri (7095m) and Kailash (Gang Rimpoche, 6714). Tibetan part of Himalaya rise from the high Plateau which means that even the very peaks have less dramatic local relief than what is often found on the southern groups of similar summit height. Tibetan part of the range is also generally less steep.

Transhimalaya

Transhimalaya is located in southern Tibet, between main Himalayan Crest and Yarlung Tsangpo river in the south and Kunlun Shan and Altyn Tagh in NW. It consists of two main sections: Gangdise in the western part and Nyengchen Tanglha in the east. Generally speaking Transhimalaya is lower than Greater Himalaya. However, there are still several very high peaks, culminating at Nyenchen Tanglha (7147m), Sepu Kangri (6950m), Loinbo Kangri (7095m) and Kailash (Gang Rimpoche, 6714).

Gangdise Shan

Nganglong Kangri

Nganglong Kangri in located in far West Tibet in the province of Ngari, 45km north of the county town, Gegye. The range lies c250km due north of the famous peaks, Gurla Mandata and Kailash, not far from Northern Tibet Highway. The isolated is reported to have 37 glaciers and more than 40 peaks over 6000m. There appears to be no official record of climbing having ever taken place in this isolated massif.

Kailash range

Lower western part of Transhimalaya is known as Gangdise Shan (or Kailas Range).It is is located to the north of Uttarakhand and Nepal. By far the best known mountain of the range is Mount Kailash (or Gang Rimpoche, 6714m/6656m), the sacred mountain.

Loinbo Kangri group
Kailash group
Kailash (Kailas, Gang Rimpoche)31.06666781.31256714
Loinbo Kangri group
Lunpo Kangri (Loinbo Kangri, Lunpo Gangri)29.83333333384.6133333337095
1996-10-23
Lunpo Kangri, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: Cha Jin-Chol, You Seok-Jae & Bang Jung-il
NE ridge
From the col between Loinbo Kangri and small rock and snow pyramid (P. 6340m).
NE ridge. 1996-10-23First ascentCha Jin-Chol, You Seok-Jae & Bang Jung-il, 1996-10-23.
Kangbulu (Chomogan)6655
2006-01-01
Kangbulu, SE face to to SE ridge,
First ascent
SE face to to SE ridge: Bruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio
SE side
SE face to to SE ridge. 2006-01-01First ascentBruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio, 2006.
Phola Kyung6530
2006-01-01
Phola Kyung, SE face to East ridge,
First ascent
SE face to East ridge: Bruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio
SE side
SE face to East ridge. 2006-01-01First ascentBruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio, 2006.
Most easterly of four snow couloirs on the South East face and then along the upper East ridge to the summit.
Gopalho6450
2006-01-01
Gopalho, East face,
First ascent
East face: Bruce Normand
East face
East face. 2006-01-01First ascentBruce Normand, 2006.

Nyangchen Tanglha Shan

Located in eastern Tibet to the north of Sikkim, Bhutan and Assam Himalaya and east of Gangise, north from the city of Lhasa, lies Nyangchen Tangla Shan. The highest peak of the range is Nyenchen Tanglha Feng (7147m). Also Sepu Kangri (6950m) in the eastern part of the range, is among the best-known among the climbers.

West Nyenchen Tanglha

West Nyenchen Tanglha includes the four highest peaks in the range, all above 7000m: Mount Nyenchen Tanglha (Nyainqêntanglha) (7162m), Nyenchen Tanglha II (7117m), Nyenchen Tanglha III (7046m) and Jomo Gangtse (Qungmoganze) (7048m), all located in Damxung (Damshung) County of Lhasa Prefenture. West Nyenchen Tanglha separates the basins of the Yarlung Tsangpo River (Brahmaputra) in the south from the basins of the Changtang in the north. In particular, it lies to the southeast of Namtso Lake.

Shakangsham (Xiakangjian Feng, Shahkangshan)31.69666666785.06256822
2002-10-07
Shakangsham, ,
First ascent
Party from UK
  • Nyainqentanglha Feng (Nyenchen Tanglha I, Nyenchen Tanglha NW) (7147m)
  • Nyainqentanglha II (7117m)
  • Nyainqentanglha III (7046m)
The highest peak in the whole range has three main summits: Nyachen Tanglha I (NW or Main Summit, 7162m), Nyanchen Tanglha II (Central, 7117m) and Nyanchen Tanglha III (SE, 7046m)
Nyainqentanglha Feng (Nyenchen Tanglha I, Nyenchen Tanglha NW)30.38916666790.5591666677147
1986-01-01
Nyainqentanglha Feng, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Hiroshi Naganuma, Yusake Maruyama & Michihara Wada
West side
West ridge. 1986-01-01First ascentHiroshi Naganuma, Yusake Maruyama & Michihara Wada, 1986.
Nyainqentanglha II30.37083333390.5841666677117
1989-01-01
Nyainqentanglha II, SSW spur,
First ascent
SSW spur: Wolfgang Axt and four other members from his Austrian expedition
SW side
SSW spur. 30-45°. 1989-01-01First ascentWolfgang Axt and four other members from his Austrian expedition, 1989.
Nyainqentanglha III30.36833333390.6008333337046
1995-08-22
Nyainqentanglha III, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
2002-01-01
Nyainqentanglha III, SW ridge,
First ascent
SW ridge: Erich Gatt & Stefan Gatt
SW side
SW ridge. IV/V, 60°. 2002-01-01First ascentErich Gatt & Stefan Gatt, 2002.
Qiongmo Kangri (Qungmoganze, Jomo Gantse)29.90416666790.0258333337048
1996-10-07
Qiongmo Kangri, ,
First ascent
Wang Yon-Feng, Jung in-Kyu, Cha Jin-Chol, Moon Young-Soung & You Seok-Jae
1996-10-07
Qiongmo Kangri, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: Wang Yon-Feng, Jung in-Kyu, Cha Jin-Chol, Moon Young-Soung & You Seok-Jae
South ridge
South ridge. 1996-10-07First ascentWang Yon-Feng, Jung in-Kyu, Cha Jin-Chol, Moon Young-Soung & You Seok-Jae, 1996-10-07.
Karpogo Sar I (Kezhen, Chiring Peak)35.92576.1733333337038
1989-08-14
Karpogo Sar I, ,
First ascent
Party from Cz/Ger
Beutse6270

East Nyenchen Tanglha

East Nyenchen Tanglha, located in the prefecture of Nagchu, Chamdo and Nyingchi, marks the water divide between the Yarlung Tsangpo to the south and the Nak Chu river (which becomes the Nujiang and Salween in its lower reach) to the north. The rugged and heavily glaciated range counts more than 240 peaks over 6000m, culminating with Sepu Kangri. Most of the peaks in East Nyenchen Tanglha, sometimes called the Alps of Tibet, are unclimbed.

Nenang Group

South of the Yigong Tsangpo between the village of Lhari (4460m) and Basong Lake (c3500m, NW of the lake).

East of Basong lake

East of Basong lake.

Jalong group

Group of four main peaks around Jalong Glacier west of the Zepu Qu Valley. Jalong II is the highest mountain in the largely unexplored eastern end of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha, surrounding the Botoi Tsangpo Basin north of the Parlung and Yibong Tsangpo Rivers. No mountains there have yet been climbed. Particularly East face of Jalong I is highly aesthetic objective.

Kangri Garpo
Sepu Kangri group
Sepu Kangri30.90333333393.78756950
2002-10-02
Sepu Kangri, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Carlos Buhler & Mark Newcomb
  • Bonington, Chris & Clarke, Charles: Tibet's Secret Mountain - The Triumph of Sepu Kangri. Isbn: 9780756762308. Diane Pub Co, 1999.
West side
Chris Bonington tried to gain the West ridge by North (1997) and NW ridges (Fotheringham's Ridge, 1998) of Seamo Uylmitok (Turquoise Flower; 6650m). The west ridge proper starts as 6400m.
West ridge. 2002-10-02First ascentCarlos Buhler & Mark Newcomb, 2002-10-02.
Nenang group
Nenang30.302593.6491666676870
Chokporsium6359
Kajaqiao6447
A spectacular rock and snow peak often dubbed the Matterhorn of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha.
2005-10-31
Kajaqiao, West face & upper NW ridge,
First ascent
West face & upper NW ridge: Mick Fowler & Chris Watts
West face
West face & upper NW ridge. TD; Sco V; 1100m. 2005-10-31First ascentMick Fowler & Chris Watts, 2005-10-31.
Manamcho6240
2007-04-25
Manamcho, NW ridge,
First ascent
NW ridge: Mick Fowler & Paul Ramsden
NW ridge
NW ridge (British route). TD; Sco V; 700m. 2007-04-25First ascentMick Fowler & Paul Ramsden, 2007-04-25.
Birutaso6691
East of Basong lake
Jieqinnalagabu (Namla Karpo)6316
Kangri Garpo
Lopchin6805
2009-11-05
Lopchin, ,
First ascent
Party from Chn

Greater Himalaya

Tatungsakhu Himal

Baiku Himalaya/Baka Kangri/Phupiphu Himal

Baiku Himalaya is located NW of Langtang and Jugal groups. The highest peaks of the range are found on main chain which runs generally NW to SE where it joins Jugal Himal at Langtang Ri (7205m), not far NW from Shisha Pangma (8012m). The highest mountain of the group is Kangpenqing (Gang Beng Chen, 7281m). There are several peaks further west of the main chain with peaks mainly between 5000 and 6000m but the highest rising above the 6000m mark.

Gang Benchhen (Gang Beng Chen, Gang Benchen)28.55166666785.5458333337281
1982-04-21
Gang Benchhen, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp

Gaurishankar Himal

Gaurishankar Himal is the northernmost group of Rolwaling Himal and contains Himalayan main chain section: Gauri Shankar (7145m) - Chekigo (6257m) - Kang Nachugo (6735m) - Kang Korob (6705m) - Pangbug Ri (6716m) along which runs Nepal-Tibet border. Of the peaks located on the ridge, at least Gaurishankar has been climbed from Tibet side. The highest peak of Rolwaling is Melungtse (7181m) whic lies to the north of the ridge, entirely in Tibet.

Labuche Himalaya

Labuche Himalaya range is located NW of Rolwaling and NE of Cho Oyu, in the Xizang province of China. The range is also known as Pamari Himal or Lapchi Kang and extends from the valley of the Tamakosi River in the west to the valley of the Sun Kosi and Nyalam Tong La in the east. Arniko-Friendship Highway cross the Himalaya through Nyalam Tong La.

Lapche Kang I (Labuche Kang I, Lapche Kang)28.30416666786.3508333337367
1987-10-26
Lapche Kang I, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Chinese-Japanese expedition
West ridge
West ridge. 1987-10-26First ascentChinese-Japanese expedition, 1987-10-26.
P. 7072 (W Lapche Kang)28.30416666786.3208333337072
1995-04-30
P. 7072, ,
First ascent
Party from CH

Khumbu Himal

Khumbu Himal main chain runs west from Rolwaling Himal and forms the border between Nepal and Tibet. The ridge contains several high peaks including 8000m giants Cho Oyu, Pumori, Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. All of these are located on the border, although the highest point of Cho Oyu is located in Tibet. Of these Cho Ouy and Everest are often climbed from the Tibetan side. Kharta Himal (Everest NE ridge) as well as Changtse Ridge (branching north from Everest NE ridge) are located entirely in Tibet. Changtse (7543m) is the highest really independent peak located entirely in Tibet in Everest area. Further to the east, immediately north of Makalu and completely on the Tibetan side lies Chomolonxo (7790m).

Nagarze Himalaya/Lhagoi Kangri

Nagarze Himalaya is located on the Tibetan side north of Tongshanjiabu (Bhutan). The range is also known as Lhagoi Kangri. The range is accessed from Lhasa using Nagartse – Gyantse road near the 5036m Karo La pass.

Norin Kang (Ningchin Kangsha, Noijin Kangsang)28.94833333390.1783333337206
1986-04-28
Norin Kang, South Face and SW ridge,
First ascent
South Face and SW ridge: Chinese expedition
East ridge
East ridge.
Normal route. The route is quite safe from avalanche and crevasses, and does not present any major technical difficulty.
SW ridge
South Face and SW ridge. 40°. 1986-04-28First ascentChinese expedition, 1986-04-28.
Kaluxung (Kuluxung, Kalurong)6674
  • Kaluxung (Kaluxung North) (6674m)
  • Kaluxung South (6536m)
2005-01-01
Kaluxung, ,
First ascent
Eiichiro Kasai & Tadao Shintani
2005-01-01
Kaluxung, NE side,
First ascent
NE side: Eiichiro Kasai & Tadao Shintani
NE side
NE side. PD. 2005-01-01First ascentEiichiro Kasai & Tadao Shintani, 2005.
Jetun Chuisang6247
Main peaks south of Kaluxung.

Eastern Himalaya

Bhutan Himalaya

There are several ranges forming the border between China (Tibet) in the north and Bhutan in south located between Sikkim in west and Assam Himnalaya in the east. Some of these ranges are off limits for climbers due to ban of mountaineering in Bhutan but some can be climbed from the Chinese side. That being said, arranging the permit may be very difficult. The most important peak in Bhutan are Kula Kangri (7554m), Gankar Punsum (7541m) and Chomolhari (7314m).

Jomolhari Himalaya

Chomolhari (Jomolhari, Qomo Lhari)27.82416666789.2691666677326
1937-05-21
Chomolhari, SE Spur & South Ridge,
First ascent
SE Spur & South Ridge: Freddie Spencer Chapman & Dawa Pasang Sherpa
1996-01-01
Chomolhari, South Ridge,
First ascent
South Ridge: large Chinese-Japanese expedition
2006-09-01
Chomolhari, Northwest ridge,
First ascent
Northwest ridge: Marko Prezelj & Boris Lorencic
2006-09-14
Chomolhari, North Face Left Couloir,
First ascent
North Face Left Couloir: Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik & Samo Krmelj
North face
North Face Left Couloir. TD+; 80; 1900m. 2006-09-14First ascentRok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik & Samo Krmelj, 2006-09-14.
Northwest ridge. ED2; VI M6+/70; 2000m. 2006-09-01First ascentMarko Prezelj & Boris Lorencic, 2006-09.
SE side
South East Spur joins with the South Ridge above 6000m.
SE Spur & South Ridge. AD. 1937-05-21First ascentFreddie Spencer Chapman & Dawa Pasang Sherpa, 1937-05-21.
West face
South Ridge. 1996-01-01First ascentlarge Chinese-Japanese expedition, 1996.
To south col (5800m) from the Tibetan side and along south ridge to summit.
Chomolhari II6972
  • Jomolhari II (Chomolhari II, Tserimkang, Jangmo Gopsha) (6972m)
  • Chomolhari II East (6920m)
2006-09-01
Chomolhari II, NW face,
First ascent
NW face: Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik, Samo Krmelj, Marko Prezelj & Boris Lorencic
Chomolhari II East, North side
NW face. 60; 1500m. 2006-09-01First ascentRok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik, Samo Krmelj, Marko Prezelj & Boris Lorencic, 2006-09.
Jichu Drake (Tanggayoula, Panggarlunglha)27.852589.3283333336809
1984-05-20
Jichu Drake, ,
First ascent
five members of the Himalayan Association of Japan to South summit
1988-01-01
Jichu Drake, South face,
First ascent
South face: Doug Scott’s expedition
South face
South face. 1988-01-01First ascentDoug Scott’s expedition, 1988.
Khangbom6500
1985-01-01
Khangbom, ,
First ascent
Japanese party

Laya Himalaya

Masagang7194
1985-01-01
Masagang, ,
First ascent
Japanese party

Lunana Himalaya

Group of low 7000m-peaks to the west of Gankhar Puensum. Forms the border between China and Bhutan.

  • Kangphu Kang I (Shimo Kangri, Shimokangri I) (7204m)
  • Jejekangphu Kang (6965m)
  • Kangphu Kang II (Shimokangri II) (6945m)
Kangphu Kang I (Shimo Kangri, Shimokangri I)28.15583333390.0757204
2002-09-29
Kangphu Kang I, SW ridge,
First ascent
SW ridge: Korean party
SW side
SW ridge. 2002-09-29First ascentKorean party, 2002-09-29.
Jejekangphu Kang28.14590.0233333336965
Kangphu Kang II (Shimokangri II)28.14166666790.1008333336945

Kula Kangri Himalaya

Karjiang

Karjiang II7045
1986-01-01
Karjiang II, ,
First ascent
Japanese expedition led by N. Shigo
Karjiang III (Taptol Kangri)6824
2001-10-19
Karjiang III, ,
First ascent
Haroen Schijf, Rudolf van Aken, Pepijn Bink, Court Haegens, Willem Horstmann & Rein-Jan Koolwijk

Kula Kangri

Located close to China-Bhutan border, probably on the Chinese side (some dispute about this, too).

Kula Kangri28.227590.6166666677538
  • Central (7418m)
  • Kula Kangri (7538m28.227590.616666667)
1986-04-21
Kula Kangri, North flank and West ridge,
First ascent
North flank and West ridge: C. Itami, E. Ohtani, H. Ozalu & J. Sakamoto
West ridge
North flank and West ridge route shortcuts the initial, steep, lower section of the West Ridge. More prone to avalanches and serac fall than more difficult West ridge integrale (70 deg.), which has been attempted by Japanese part in 2004. They gained 6200m, which is around where North flank and West ridge gains the ridge crest. They had to abandon their attempt due to bad weather at 6900m.
North flank and West ridge. 1986-04-21First ascentC. Itami, E. Ohtani, H. Ozalu & J. Sakamoto, 1986-04-21.
Normal route. Shortcuts the initial, steep, lower section of the West Ridge by climbing up the northern flank.
Kula Kangri North East7381
2001-05-04
Kula Kangri North East, ,
First ascent
Party from Chn/Jp

Gangkhar Puensum

Gangkhar Puensum (Gankarpunzum, Kangkar Pünzum)28.04833333390.4541666677570
Highest peak of Bhutan, albeit some dispute whether the summit lies within Bhutan or on the border between China and Bhutan. Anyway, probably the highest unclimbed mountain and likely to stay that way, as currently all mountaineering is prohibited in Bhutan. Before the ban, attemps were made in 1985 and 1985 along South Ridge. Japanese party got permission from Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb from Chinese side in 1998, but it was revoked. They climbed Liankang Kangri from the north and commented: "A climbing route from Liankang Kangri to Gankarpunzum seemed viable although difficult knife-edged ridge with unstable snow and ice continued and finally spiky pinnacles guarded the summit."
Liankang Kangri, north side
SW ridge. 1999-01-01First ascentJapanese party to Liankang Kangri, 1999.
South ridge
Before the mountaineering was banned in Bhutan, attemps were made to climb South ridge.
Liangkang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North)28.06833333390.4452777787535
1999-05-09
Liangkang Kangri, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp