Indian Himalaya/Mountains

Western India

Jammu & Kashmir ranges

Ladakh range

Ladakh range is located to the north of Zanskar range and to the south of Masherbrum, Saltoro and Saser Karakorams.

Pangong group

Kangju Kangri (Pt. 6725, Thinguru)33.72519678.5276136725
1987-09-01
Kangju Kangri, ,
First ascent
Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Itam Singh
P. 65806580
3km to the southeast of Kangju Kangri
Kakstet Peak (Kakstet Kangri)6442
2km further south west of Pt. 6580.
P. 6l346134

Zanskar range

Zanskar Range lies to the north of the main Himalaya range and south of Indus River. Which areas exactly belong to Zanskar range and which to Great Himalaya range does not appear to be very clear cut. One classification is to consider Zanskar to be separated from Great Himalaya by valley system Khargil – Suru – Zanskar. Essentially this means the mountain ridges between Zanskar and Ladakh valleys. This classification means that Nun Kun and Kishtwar groups part of Great Himalayas, not Zanskar. Furthermore, Zanskar does not really extend to Himachal Pradesh. Instead, northern Himachal Pradesh ranges are part of Greater Himalaya. Others consider mountains of Lahaul and Spiti to belong to Zanskar.

The range rises to ~6200m in the central part and up to ~6600m in the eastern part. The area in Eastern Zanskar, around Tso Morari lake is known as Rupshu. It contains two sub-ranges: Mentok Range to to the west of Tthe lake and Thalda Kurrni to the east. The latter is the highest part of Zanskar with few non-technical peaks around 6600m high. Tsok Kangri is probably the most visited peak of Zanskar range.

Mentok Range

To the west of Tso Morari lake.

Thalda Kurrni

Group of non-technical high peaks located on the east side of Tso Morari lake. Access is from Korzok village.

Thalda Kurni
Lungser Kangri (Thalda Kurmi)32.93276878.4571466666
Non-technical peak
Chhamser Kangri32.93276878.4571466622
Non-technical peak

Himalaya/Jammu-Kashmir

Nun Kun group

Compact Nun-Kun group comprises a pair of high Himalayan peaks: Nun (7135m) and its neighbor peak Kun (7077m). Pinnacle Peak (6930m), White Needle (6600m) and Barnal (5813m) are the other main peaks of the group. Nun is the highest peak in the part of the Himalayan range lying on the Indian side of the Line of Control in Jammu and Kashmir (there are higher peaks in the Indian part of the Karakoram range). The massif is located near the Suru valley. The most convenient access is from the road connecting Kargil and Leh through Parktik glacier (North and West) or via Shafat glacier (south and east).

Kishtwar Himalaya

The Kishtwar Himalaya is a small subrange of the Himalayan mountain range, in the Indian states of Jammu and Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh, west of Lahaul along the Chandrabhaga river. Political disputes make accessing the area troublesome. The 1970s and ‘80s formed the heyday of Kishtwar climbing, as mountaineers, approaching from either Jammu or Srinigar via Kishtwar Village, explored first the more accessible western peaks, and later Eastern Kishtwar. Since then the area became politically problematic which rendered it very difficult to access. Virtually nobody went to the area in the 90's and 00's, however, in 10's the area has been visited by few parties. Particularly Mick Fowler has made several trips to the area both in the end of eighties and start of the 90's as well as on 10's, making difficult first ascents of Cerro Kishtwar, Kishtwar Kailash, Shiva and Hagshu.

It is a dramatic range of steep rock and ice peaks with great local relief. The highest and best known peaks in the western part of the range include Brammah I (6416m), Brammah II (6425m), Sickle Moon (6574m). The peaks is the Eastern part are slightly lower but perhaps more spectacular. The best known peaks include Hagshu (6300m), Kishtwar Kailash (6440m) and Cerro Kishtwar (6220m).

Western Kishtwar
Northern Kishtwar

NE part of Kishtwar Himalaya, located to the north of valley system extending from Atholi (2245m) - Bhut Nullah - Umasi La (5330m). The group consists of main ridge running in NW-SE direction between Chorari La (5400m) in NW and Umasi la (5342) in SE. The best known peak of the group is Hagshu located in the southern part.

Eastern Kishtwar

East of Umasi La (5342). Main ridge runs at first generally towards east via Umasi Peak (6020m) before turning to N-S direction on the east side of Chomochior glacier. This section of the range contains Kishtwar Kailash (6451m), the highest peak of the group. Long side branch runs initially south from Umasi Peak via Muni la, Chomochior (6322m) and Cerro Kishtwar (6220m) to Sentinel (5950m). There the ridge takes abrupt turn and runs from east to west via Dandagoporium (6100m) to Kishtwar Shivling (6400m).

Long side branch runs initially south from Umasi Peak via Muni la, Chomochior (6322m) and Cerro Kishtwar (6220m) to Sentinel (5950m). There the ridge takes abrupt turn and runs from east to west via Dandagoporium (6100m) to Kishtwar Shivling (6400m).

East of Chomochior glacier

Southern Kishtwar

Separated from Western and Eastern Kishtwars by Atholi (2245m) - Bhut Nullah - Darlang Nullah.

Western Kishtwar
Bharanzar (Sickle Moon)33.602576.1316676574
1900-01-01
Event
North side
North ridge. 1975-01-01First ascentIndian High-Altitude Warfare School expedition (Col D. N, Tanka), 1975.
South side
South Face and SE Ridge. 60-70°.
Brammah I33.506376.05126416
1900-01-01
Event
SE ridge
SE ridge. V. 1973-01-01First ascentChris Bonington & Nick Estcourt, 1973.
Brammah II33.45496876.1550816425
1900-01-01
Event
Japanese route. 1975-09-15First ascentJapanese team (K. Keira), 1975-09-15.
Northern Kishtwar
Barnaj II
1900-01-01
Event
South ridge
South ridge of the south peak. 1976-01-01First ascentJapanese party to South, 1976.1980-08-14First ascentKei Komishi, Shoichi Sugaya, Hiroshi Matsui & Nobuyoshi Suzuki to Central, 1980-08-14.
Hagshu33.54311276.4650156300
1900-01-01
Event
North face
In the late 1980s/early 1990s, the north face of Hagshu was the target of several expeditions led by John Barry, ex SAS mountaineer and one time head of Plas-y-Brenin. The high point of these trips was about half way up the face. Regional political troubles effectively prevented access between 1993 and 2010. Hagshu has been attempted at least three times since then with no success.
North face
North face. ED; 70-90°, III. 2014-09-30First ascentMarko Prezelj, Luka Lindic & Ales Cesen, 2014-09-30.
NE face
NE face. ED. 2014-10-06First ascentMick Fowler & Paul Ramsden, 2014-10-06.
ENE face
ENE face. TD; Sco IV/55°; 1200m, 3 days. 1989-09-16First ascentPhil Booth, Max Halliday & Ken Hopper, 1989-09-16.
SE ridge
SE ridge. VI-, 80°; 2 days. 1989-01-01First ascentPawel Jozefowicz & Dariusz Zaluski, 1989.
Eastern Kishtwar
Chomochior6322
1900-01-01
Event
West ridge
West ridge (SW ridge). IV, 60°; 1400m. 1988-01-01First ascentRoger Everett & Simon Richardson, 1988.
Cerro Kishtwar
1900-01-01
Event
West face
Highly technical mixed face, reportedly much harder than Spantik’s Golden Pillar. Before its first ascent it had been attempted by Mich Fowler and Mike Morrison as well as Brendan Murphy and Andy Perkins (1991).
NW face. ED+; Sco VI, A3; 1300m, 25 pitches. 1993-09-20First ascentMick Fowler & Steve Sustad, 1993-09-20.
Diagonal ice ramp to a notch on the North Ridge, from where the route crosses to NE face.
  • Fowler, Mick: Vertical Pleasure - Early Climbs in Britain, the Alps, the Andes and the Himalaya. Isbn: 9780938567400. Baton Wicks Publications, 2006.
  • Fowler, Mick: On Thin Ice - Alpine Climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya. Isbn: 9781898573586. Baton Wicks Publications, 2005.
Yoniverse (West face and south ridge). WI5, 6a; 1200m. 2011-01-01First ascentDavid Lama, Stefan Siegrist, Denis Burdet & Rob Frost, 2011.
Diagonal ice ramp curving up across the West Face to reach the upper South Ridge.
Kishtwar Shivling6040
Located at the end of SW loop of peaks in Eastern Kishtwar. Not to be confused with higher Shivling located in Gangotri. Soiuth side of the peak can be approached from Darlang valley while the north side is accessible from Haptal glacier, not far from the village of Sumcham (3450m).
1900-01-01
Event
North side
North Face. V+, 85°; 1700m, 6 days. 1983-09-12First ascentStephen Venables & Dick Renshaw, 1983-09-12.
  • Venables, Stephen: Painted Mountains - Two Expeditions to Kashmir, First Edition Edition edition. Isbn: 9780898861365. Mountaineers Books, 1987.
  • Venables, Stephen: Higher Than the Eagle Soars. Isbn: 9780099505440. Arrow, 2008.
Challo (East pillar). WI5 M6°; 600m. 2014-10-01First ascentAndreas Abegglen, Thomas Senf & Stephan Siegrist, 2014-10-01.
South face
A strong Italian team lead by Paolo Vitali attempted the south pillar of Kishtwar Shivling in 1992, but were defeated by consistent bad weather.
Kishtwar Kailash6451
The highest peak in the eastern part of Kishtwar. The peak has only one recorded ascent.
1900-01-01
Event
SW face
SW face. ED; Sco VI; 1500m. 2013-01-01First ascentMick Fowlewr & Paul Ramsden, 2013.
Southern Kishtwar
Agyasol6200
Northernmost, and the highest, peak of Southern Kishtwar. Not far from Machnil village in Bhut Nullah.
1900-01-01
Event
Shiva (Bahai Jar)33.09233376.5814026142
Best known peak in Southern Kishtwar. NE ridge is very prominent and obvious hard target. South side seems far less intimidating. There have been a handful ascents from the south but details are scarce, so it is not clear whether there are several routes from the south.
1900-01-01
Event
NE ridge
The Prow (NE ridge). ED+; 700m. 2012-10-01First ascentMick Fowler & Paul Ramsden, 2012-10.
Joint winner of Piolet d'Or 2013.
South face
Information about the routes seem to be somewhat inconsistent therefore it is not clear whether there is more than one route. 1988 route is sometimes referred to as West ridge, whereas 1975 route is referred to as SW ridge.
West ridge. 1988-01-01First ascentAll-female expedition from the Japanese Alpine Club led by Junko Tabei, 1988.
Moderate terrain on the glaciated southwest face, finishing along the south ridge.
South ridge. 1973-01-01First ascentNoritoshi Kato, Toshiki Takeuchi & Manhyal Sherpa, 1973.
SW face & South ridge. 1975-08-19First ascentTakaharu Suzuki, Yoshinori Yatsu, Yoshifumi Ogino, Koyo Kawasaki & Hiroaki Kaneda, 1975-08-19.

Himachal Pradesh

Himachal forms the central part of NW Indian Himalayas. There are several peaks around 6500m high but none of international fame. Miyar valley is probably the best known part of Himachal among foreign climbers.

Greater Himalaya/Himachal Pradesh

Koa Rang group

Located to the east of the Bhaga River and north of the Mulkila group.

Mulkilla group

Chandra Bhaga group

Bang Shigri group

South of Kunzum pass (4551m) and Spiti valley. Connected to Indrasan located a bit further to the west. The group consists of northern and southern ridges forming horseshow around Bara Shigri glacier. The southern chain separates Bara Shigri glacier glacier from Parvati valley system (Kullu) in the south. The chains meet at Dibibokri col. From there third ridge runs generally north to south (more like SE) forming eastern border of Parvati valley. The main peak of this section is Dibibokari.

Central Peak (6285m) - Lion Peak (6126m) - Snow Cone (6309m) - Shigri Parbat (6626m)

Lalana (6265m) - Papsura (6451m) - Dharmsura (6446m) - Cathedral (6100m) - Kullu Pumori (6553m) - Parbati Parbat (6633m)

Pir Panjal Range

Pir Panjal is the largest range of the lesser Himalayas. It dissociates itself from the Great Himalayas near Manali and runs towards NW parallel to Himalayan main range forming the SW bank of Lahut valley. The range extends to Jammu & Kashmir as well as Pakistan Occupied Kashmir in Pakistan. The range extends to Jammu & Kashmir. The highest part of the range is located in the east. Deo Tibba (6001m) and Indrasan (6221m) are two most important peaks of the range.

Dhaula Dhar Range

Kangra Himalaya

To the west of Rathong pass at the end of Kullu valley: Hanuman Tibba - Makerbeh - Manali Peak - Ladekhi Peak.

Miyar group

Menthosa6444
Gangstang6162
1900-01-01
Event
West face
SW ridge. 1945-01-01First ascentItalian team, 1945.
West face. D-; Sco III/IV.
Three Peaks Mountain (Mahindra)5845
1900-01-01
Event
SW face
SW face. Rus 6B; 1077m. 2008-09-13First ascentEugene Mikhaylovich, Kochetkov Grigoriy Sergeevich, Soshnikov Alexander Igorevich, Murushev Andrey Eugenievich & Vlaznev Dmitry Alexandrovich, 2008-09-13.

Mulkila group

Mulkila IV (Mulkilla, Mulkila)32.5455877.412166517
1900-01-01
Event
South ridge
South ridge. 1939-09-01First ascentNational Union of Students team led by L. Krenek, 1939-09.
Mulkila V6370
Likely the easiest peak of Mulkila group
Mulkila IX5736

Bang Shigri group

North chain
Lion Peak6126
1900-01-01
Event
Shigri Parbat6626
1900-01-01
Event
Khhang Shiling6360
1900-01-01
Event
NE ridge
From the col between Shigri Parvat and Khhang Shiling
NE ridge. 2004-01-01First ascentIndian party, led by Divyesh Muni, 2004.
SW chain
Papsura32.21236577.5540356451
1900-01-01
Event
South side
Western couloir of the south face. 1967-06-03First ascentGeoffrey Hill & Colin Pritchard, 1967-06-03.
To col on SE ridge.
SW ridge. TD+; VI, 50-55°. 1977-06-01First ascentRowland Perriment & Barry Needle, 1977-06.
Dharmsura (White Sail)6446
1900-01-01
Event
SE ridge
SE ridge. 1941-01-01First ascentBritish team led by Jimmy Roberts, 1941.
To col on Tos/Bara Shigri divide and along SE ridge.
SW ridge
SW ridge. AD; 55°. 1977-05-01First ascentRowland Perriment & George Crawford-Smith, 1977-05.
Kullu Pumori6553
1900-01-01
Event
SW ridge
SW ridge. 1954-01-01First ascentExpedition led by R.G. Pettigrew, 1954.
Parbati Parbat32.09013777.7331646633
The highest peak surrounding Bang Shigri glacier.
1900-01-01
Event
South side
East shoulder. 1968-06-10First ascentF. Gaspard, L. Lorenzi, A. Perron, M. Tremonti & C. Zardini, 1968-06-10.
SE chain
Dibibokari Pyramid6408
1900-01-01
Event
NW face
NW face. 1978-10-10First ascentMick Hoffe, Nick Hewitt & Christine Mumford, 1978-10-10.

Mani Kang group

Manirang31.95333378.3666676593
The highest peak in Spiti.
1900-01-01
Event
South side
SW ridge. 1952-01-01First ascentClaire Graff, Jan Graff, Pasang Dawa Lama sherpa & Tashi sherpa, 1952.
Normal route. From Manirang pass (5500m).
South spur. 2006-01-01First ascentCalcutta team, 2006.

Lingti group

Kang Nilda-Gya
Shilla6132
Used to be estimated to be over 7000m high.

Kinnaur East group

Phawararang6349
1900-01-01
Event
North side
North ridge. 2004-08-01First ascentDhananjay Bhagat & Manoj, 2004-08.
East side
SE face to East ridge. 1977-01-01First ascentBalwant Sandhu's Indian expedition, 1977.

Southern Kinnaur

Rangrik Rang6553
1900-01-01
Event
North side
The north face is the ultimate challenge on this peak
NE ridge. 1994-01-01First ascentChris Bonington & Harish Kapadia, 1994.

Pir Panjal Range

Indrasan32.21330977.3966226221
1900-01-01
Event
East side
East ridge. TD; VS. 1973-01-01First ascentBritish Army Expedition led by Jon Fleming, 1973.
SW face
SW face. 1962-01-01First ascentJapanese expedition, 1962.

Dhaula Dhar Range

Kangra Himalaya
Hanuman Tibba (Solang Weisshorn)32.34182677.0405965929
Mukarbeh32.41779177.0726976060
1900-01-01
Event
South ridge
South ridge. 1968-06-23First ascentJ.E. Ashburner & Sonam Wangyal, 1968-06-23.
Traverse from Manali Peak.

Spiti

Reo Purgyil31.88472222278.7355555566816
1971-09-20
Reo Purgyil, ,
First ascent
Party from Ind
Gya32.52583333378.3991666676794
1998-08-12
Gya, ,
First ascent
Party from Ind

Uttarakhand Himalaya

Bandarpunch group

Bandarpunch is the westernmost group of Uttarakhand Hiimalaya, located to the west of Bhagirathi river. The region houses some very easy, gentle peaks. Main peaks of the group are Swargarohini (6252m) and Bandarpunch (6316m) in SW part and Changsil Range in NE.

Bandarpunch (Bandarpoonch, Bandarpunch I)31.10666778.556316
1900-01-01
Event

Gangotri group

Wild peaks gathered around Gangotri glacier SE of Gangotri town. Some of the most difficult climbing ever done has taken place on the walls of Thalay Sagar, Shivling, Meru, Bhagirathi and Arwa group. Several routes of Piolet d'Or level are testament to this. Kedar Dome is probably the best known objective among somewhat easier peaks.

SW Gangotri Subsection

Gangotri

Group located to SW of Gangotri town inside the bend of Bhagirathi river. The group consists of a ridge running north-south and containing the main peaks and several subsidiary ridges towards west. Main access to the highest peaks of the group is from Bhagirathi river valley in the north via Rugugaira valley (North and east of the peaks). Jaonli valley leads to the west side of the peaks from Bhagirathi river valley.

Bhrigupanth-Thalay Sagar

NW part of Gangotri peaks located just SW of Gangotri village. Then group consists of central North-South ridge and as Jogin group in the west and Meru group in the east. Jogin group is located to the east of Kedar valley and connects to SW ridge of Thalay Sagar. Meru group is a ridge system SE from Bhrigupanth.

Jogin group

Jogin group is located to the east of Kedar valley and connects to SW ridge of Thalay Sagar.

Meru group

Meru group is a ridge system SE from Bhrigupanth, north of Kirti glacier. The group contains three Meru peaks and Shivling.

Of three summits, the lowest central peak is the hardest. Particularly easily recognisable Shark's Fin (NE Pillar) has denies several very strong suitors unless it fell in 2011 to Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin & Renan Ozturk in 2011 (the same party came close in 2011). There are several other routes on the flanks of the Shark's fin, one of which earned Piolet d'Or to Valery Babnov. Higher summits were climbed earlier.

Kedar Dome-Chaukhamba

Generally West-East chain peaks east of Thalay Sagar. The chain forms SW border of Gangotri glacier. The chain has two short subsidiary ridges towards north: western one from Kedarnath with Kedar Dome and eastern one from Sumeru Parbat with Kharchakund. There are several long subsidiary ridges towards south, but they are a lot lower. The main ridge on the other hand houses the highest peaks of Gangotri group (Chaukhamba I), located at the eastern end of Gangotri glacier. However, the peaks are far leass famous than the ones further west and those of Bhagirathi group.

Group of peaks located at the eastern end of Gangotri glacier. Peaks are numbered starting from NE, with I, II and III on the ridge marking the end of the glacier while IV is located and a west-east ridge forming the southern bank of the glacier. Chaukhamba I is the highest peak of Gangotri group.

NE Gangotri Subsection

NE groups form the NE bank of Gangotri glacier. Chaturangi glacier and Kalindi Pass divide the group in two with the peaks located to the SE of the pass being better known as both the highest peak (Satopanth 7075m) as well as famous Bhagiurathi peaks are located there. Sri Kailas (6932m) is the highest peak NW of Kalindi pass. Peaks located in NW part of the group

Matri-Sri Kailas

Located to the east of Gangotri village and north of Raktvarn glacier. Northern aspects of the group are approached from the side valleys of Mana valley, particularly Guligad and Lambigad valleys. Together with Mana Parbat group, probably the least visited group surrounding Gangotri glacier.

Mana Parbat group

Located to the north of Chaturangi glacier and Bhagirathi and Satopanth groups. The group is separated from the latter by Kalindi pass, through which trekking route crosses from Gangotri glacier via Chaturangi glacier to Arwa glacier and further to Alanakdi/Saraswati valley (Gastholi, Mana and Badrinath). High peaks but little known among climbers.

Bhagirathi

Bhagirathi group is located on the East bank of Gangotri glacier opposite Shivling and Meru. Group of steep peaks, particularly the West side of Bhagirathi III is stupendous. Almost all of the climbs on Bhagirathi peaks are very difficult.

  • Pritchard, Paul; Parkin, Andy & Middendorf, John: Deep Play, First Edition Edition edition. Isbn: 9781898573142. Baton Wicks Publications, 1997.
Satopanth group

SE corder of Gangotri glacier, south of Chaturangi glacier and Mana Parbat group, east of Bhagirathi group and North of Chaukhamba. Satopanth is the central group between Kalindi pass in in the north and Meade's Col in the south. It is the highest peak (and sole 7000m peak) north of Meade's Col, however it is overshadowed by more flashy neighbors of Bhagirathi group (west) and Arwa group (east).

Arwa Group

Arwa group lies on the ridge system east of Satopanth, between Arwa valley in the north and Bhagirathi valley in the south. The group consists of three steep rock peaks: Arwa Tower, Arwa Spires and Arwa Crest. The peaks are not particularly high by Himalayan standards, but consist of very steep rocky faces. All established routes are highly technical. All are accessible from a single base camp in the Arwa valley. The BC is reached from Alaknanda/Saraswati valley (Badrinath, Mana).

SW Gangotri
Kedar Dome-Chaukhamba
Chaukhamba I30.74833333379.2891666677138
1900-01-01
Event
NE face
NE face. 1952-06-13First ascentLucien George & Victor Russenberger, 1952-06-13.
Kedarnath (Kedar Nath)30.797579.06756940
1947-07-11
Kedarnath, ,
First ascent
Swiss team led by André Roch
NW Face
NW Face. 1947-01-01First ascentSwiss team led by André Roch, 1947.
  • Wolfe pp.92
Kedar Dome (Kedarnath Dome)30.80861179.0788896831
Subsidiary peak of Kedarnath, located on a short subsidiary ridge into Gangortri glacier, east of Kirti glacier. Relativeloy popular.
1900-01-01
Event
East face
Sunrise Pillar. TD+; VI; 600m. 1984-01-01First ascentMartin Moran et al., 1984.
SE Ridge
SE Ridge. ED+; 6c/E3/4 6a, M3; 2000m. 2007-10-09First ascentTim Emmett & Ian Parnell, 2007-10-09.
NW Face
NW Face. Snow, 50°. 1947-01-01First ascentSwiss team led by André Roch, 1947.
Normal route. Straightforward and relatively low-angle, and is a popular ski ascent in the spring season.
Sumeru Parbat6331
Kharchakund6612
Located on a short subsidiary ridge north of Sumeru Parbat and opposite side of Gangotri glacier to much more famous Bhagirathi peaks. Difficult peak by any route.
1900-01-01
Event
West side
West Rib & North Ridge. 1982-01-01First ascentToshiharu Hashimoto & Yoshitaka Tanimura, 1982.
NE Face
North East Face. TD; 65°; 1600m. 1983-01-01First ascentSepp Inhoger & Balthasar Pichler, 1983.
North Ridge
North ridge. ED1; VI,A1, Sco V; 1600m. 1987-01-01First ascentRobin Beadle, Bobby Gilbert, Rob Tresidder & Pete Scott, 1987.
Mandari Parbat6193
Chaukhamba II7070
1900-01-01
Event
NE ridge
NE ridge. 1995-01-01First ascentIndian team of instructors from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, 1995.
SW face
SW face. D; 1600m. 2002-01-01First ascentPatrick Wagnon, Christian Tromsdorff, Greg Sauget & Yannick Graziani, 2002.
NW ridge
NW ridge. 1996-05-14First ascentKorean expedition led by Nam Ki Chang, 1996-05-14.
Parvati Parvat6257
Located east of Chaukhamba between Satopanth glacier in the north and Pahpatia glaier in the south.
Nilkanth30.7279.46596
Although substantially lower than the highest peaks of the region, it towers dramatically over the valley of the Alaknanda River and rises 3474m above the Hindu holy town of Badrinath, only 9km to the east.
1900-01-01
Event
North face
North face. 1961-06-13First ascentShri O.P. Sharma, Lakpa Giyalbu sherpa & Phurba Lobsang sherpa, 1961-06-13.
NE ridge
NE ridge. 1993-01-01First ascentIndian party led by Col. H.S. Chauhan, 1993.
West Ridge
West Ridge. TD; IV+, 55-70°. 2000-06-02First ascentJohn Leedale, Martin Moran, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston & Casper Venter, 2000-06-02.
Bhrigupanth-Thalay Sagar
Thalay Sagar group
Thalay Sagar (Phatig Pithwara, Pathing Pithwara)30.8678.9966666676905
Beautifully shaped mountain located in Gangotri group of Gahrwal Himal, west of Shivling-Meru group. Very difficult from all sides. The peak has three main ridges: North ridge connecting the peak with Bhrigupanth, SW ridge which connects to Jogin group and SE ridge leading to Kirti Stambh.
1900-01-01
Event
North face
Highly coveted mountaineering destination with several very difficult routes. First route through the band of bad shale near the top (all the previous north face routes turn this by joining one of the ridges).
One Way Ticket. WI6,M6, 5b; 1400m. 2003-10-30First ascentStéphane Benoist & Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, 2003-10-30.
Central Couloir Direct (Australian Route). nccs VII 5.9 WI5; 1500m. 1998-09-20First ascentAndrew Lindblade & Anthold Whimp, 1998-09-20.
First route through the band of bad shale near the top (all the previous north face routes turn this by joining one of the ridges). Winner of Piolet d'Or 1998.
Original. ED1/2; V+, 85°; 1400m. 1991-01-01First ascentPeter Dekany & Attila Ozsvat, 1991.
North west couloir and west ridge.
Russian Direct (High Tension, Russian Route). ABO/Rus 6B; 7b,A3. 1999-05-27First ascentAlexander Klenov, Alexey Bolotov, Mikhail Davy & Mikhail Pershin, 1999-05-27.
Bulgarian Route (Between Light and Shadow). nccs VI 5.10 A2; VII-,A2; 1400m. 2003-10-12First ascentHristo Hristov & Nikola Levakov, 2003-10-12.
NW Pillar (Harvest Moon). 6a,A3, WI5,M5+; 1400m. 2004-01-01First ascentDenis Burdet, Thomas Senf, Stephan Siegrist & Ralph Weber, 2004.
NE face
Dutch route (NE face). ED1/2/nccs VI 5.8 A1 AI5; AI5, V+,A1; 800m for the face, 400-500m for approach couloir. 2003-01-01First ascentMike van Berkel, Cas van de Gevel & Melvin Redeker, 2003.
NE Ridge (NE buttress). Ice/mixed, TD+; VI+,A1; 900m. 1983-08-23First ascentAndrezej Czok, Hans Christian Doseth, Havard Nesheim, Frode Guldal & Janusz Skorek, 1983-08-23.
Climbs the left flank of the ridge.
By far the least visited aspect. Not accessible from Gangotri valley system.
West Ridge
NW couloir and ridge (West Pillar). 60°, 5.8,A1; 1400m. 1979-06-24First ascentJohn Thackray, Pete Thexton & Roy Kligfield, 1979-06-24.
Bhrigupanth I30.88083333379.00256773
1980-06-19
Bhrigupanth I, ,
First ascent
Brothers, Susan Coons & Gofort
Manda I6510
1981-01-01
Manda I, ,
First ascent
Party from
West side
North ridge. 1981-01-01Manda I, North ridge, First ascent , 1981.
West face and north ridge.
Manda II6568
1900-01-01
Event
East side
South ridge. 2001-06-01First ascentA group of climbers from Junipers, 2001-06.
From the col between Manda II and III.
West side
South ridge. 1982-01-01First ascentAmerican expedition, 1982.
From the col between Manda II and III.
Meru group
Meru North6450
1900-01-01
Event
North side
NE face to north ridge. 6b,A2+, 85°; 1250m. 1994-09-04First ascentGerman Bahillo, Juan Carlos Bahillo, Simón Elias & Jordi Corominas, 1994-09-04.
East side
East face. 1980-10-04First ascentJapanese expedition, 1980-10-04.
Meru Central6310
1900-01-01
Event
West Face
West Face. nccs III WI2 5.5; 50-70°. 2007-05-17First ascentHaskins & Hill, 2007-05-17.
North East Pillar (Shark's Fin)
  • Pritchard, Paul; Parkin, Andy & Middendorf, John: Deep Play, First Edition Edition edition. Isbn: 9781898573142. Baton Wicks Publications, 1997.
Shark's Fin. 6a,A4, WI5,M6; 1400m. 2011-10-02First ascentConrad Anker, Jimmy Chin & Renan Ozturk, 2011-10-02.
Shangri La. ED; 5.9/5.10, A1/A2, M5/75°. 2001-01-01First ascentValeri Babanov, 2001.
Piolet d’Or.
Czech Route (Filkuv nebesky smich). nccs VI 5.11d M5 80; 7a, M5/80°; 2000m. 2006-01-01First ascentMarek Holecek & Jan Kreisinger, 2006.
Meru South30.86805679.0322226660
1900-01-01
Event
South, NE Face
800m vertical rock wall
Gate to the Sky. nccs VII A5 5.10. 2010-01-01First ascentKim Sae-joon, Kim Tae-man & Wang Jun-ho, 2010.
South, SE Ridge
SE Ridge. 1980-10-01First ascentTakahaski & Oninato, 1980-10-01.
Shivling30.87986779.065456543
  • Main (6543m30.87986779.06545)
  • South (6501m)
Beautifully shaped pyramid at the eastern end of the ridge system leading east from Bhrigupanth. Well visible to the valley leading to Gangotri glacier. Lots of routes, all of them difficult. West Ridge is clearly the easiest (D), all others are significantly harder.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Scott, Doug: Himalayan Climber - A Lifetime's Quest to the World's Greater Ranges. Isbn: 9781898573166. Baton Wicks Publications, 1997.
  • Child, Greg: Thin Air, 2 Reprint Edition edition. Isbn: 9780898865882. The Mountaineers Books, 1988.
  • World Mountaineering pp.258-261
  • +Belles, pp.121
  • Mountain Info, #505 issue: 23, date: 2007-01.
North Face
North Face (Czechoslovakian Route). TD+; V+, 85°; 1400m. 1987-09-01First ascentBranislav Adamec, Pavel Rajf & Jiri Svejda, 1987-09.
North Face to North West Ridge. IV+/V, 70°; 1400m. 2005-01-01First ascentKazuya Hiraide & Kei Taniguchi, 2005.
crest via the lower section of the North Face.
NE Ridge
Long ridge between North and NE faces.
North Buttress. 1100m, 12h. 1993-01-01First ascentHans Kammerlander & Christoph Hainz, 1993.
Joins Japanese route for the upper part.
North Ridge. 1200m, 52 pitches. 1980-01-01First ascentFujita, Kubo & Yamamoto, 1980.
Shiva's Line. VII,A4, M6/70°; 1450m. 2000-05-31First ascentThomas Huber & Iwan Wolf, 2000-05-31.
Direct route up steep rock prow avoided by Japanese route and Kammerlander & Hainz. The final 400m headwall is graded A4/VII. Awarded with Piolet d'Or.
East side
NE Face. VI,A1, 85/90°; 1300m, 8 days. 1986-06-01First ascentEnrico Rosso, Paolo Bernascone & Fabrizio Manoni, 1986-06.
East Ridge. TD+/nccs VI 5.10 A2; VI+,A2/A3/5.9,A3; 1300m, 56 pitches. 12 days. 1981-06-15First ascentGoerges Bettembourg, Greg Child, Doug Scott & Rick White, 1981-06-15.
SE Face
SE Face. 51 pitches. 1983-01-01First ascentM. Nakao, K. Ohama & M. Yamagata, 1983.
To col between the two summits.
  • World Mountaineering pp.258-261 #11
SW side
American. 1989-01-01First ascentC. Warner, D. Jenkins & A. Weiss, 1989.
  • World Mountaineering pp.258-261 #10
British route (SE ridge of SW summit). V. 1983-01-01First ascentC. Bonington & J. Fotheringham, 1983.
  • World Mountaineering pp.258-261 #9
Australian (SW ridge of SW summit). VI,A4. 1986-01-01First ascentB. Muir, J. Muir & G. Hill, 1986.
  • World Mountaineering pp.258-261 #8
West Ridge
  • West Ridge The ridge is the lowest-angle feature on the mountain, but still involves serious mixed climbing, and is threatened by the sérac barrier noted by the Germans. The ridge leads to the col between the two summits; a steep snow/ice ridge then leads to the main summit D III/IV 2100m Hukam Singh, Ang Tharhay, Pemba Tharkay, Laxman Singh & Pasang Sherpa World Mountaineering pp.258-261 #7
Gangotri
Gangotri6672
1900-01-01
Event
NE ridge
NE ridge. 1952-10-03First ascentTyson, Huggins & Pasang Dawa, 1952-10-03.
Gangotri II6599
1900-01-01
Event
Gangotri III6577
NE Gangotri
Satopanth group
Satopanth30.84579.21257075
1947-08-01
Satopanth, ,
First ascent
Andre Roch, René Dittert, Alexander Graven & Alfred Sutter
North face
North face. Ice/snow, AD. 1947-01-01First ascentAndre Roch, René Dittert, Alexander Graven & Alfred Sutter, 1947.
  • Wolfe pp. 92
Chandra Parbat (Chandra Parbat I)6730
1900-01-01
Event
Chandra Parbat II6728
1900-01-01
Event
Swachhand6590
1900-01-01
Event
SE side
SE side to south ridge. Snow, 1938-01-01First ascentT. Messner & L. Spannraft, 1938.
West face
West face. M6 WI5; 1400m. 2002-01-01First ascentJohn Millar, Conor Reynolds & Guy Edwards, 2002.
Matri-Sri Kailas
Sri Kailas31.017579.17756932
1930-10-16
Sri Kailas, ,
First ascent
Party from
Matri6721
Trimukhi Parbat6422
Bhagirathi
Bhagirathi Parvat I (Bhagirathi I)30.8579.1491666676856
1980-09-29
Bhagirathi Parvat I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Vasuki Parvat
1973-10-02
Vasuki Parvat, ,
First ascent
Party from Ind
East face
East face to NE ridge.
West face
West face. V WI6/Sco VI,7; 1600m. 2010-10-13First ascentMalcolm Bass & Paul Figg, 2010-10-13.
Bhagirathi II6512
1900-01-01
Event
East face
East face. 1938-09-09First ascentEdi Ellmauthaler & Toni Messner, 1938-09-09.
West side
West ridge. ED; VI+,A2; 1300m. 1984-01-01First ascentRavaschietto & Sarchi, 1984.
West face. ED+/ABO; 6b+/5.11a, M8 WI6+; 1300m. 2009-10-01First ascentMarko Prezelj, Rok Blagus & Luka Lindic, 2009-10-01.
Bhagirathi IV6193
1900-01-01
Event
West face
West face. D+; 1000m. 2009-09-15First ascentMarko Prezelj, Rok Blagus & Luka Lindic, 2009-09-15.
Bhagirathi III30.86859979.1341356454
1900-01-01
Event
North ridge
North ridge. AD. 1979-01-01First ascentCzech expedition, 1979.
From the col between Bhagarathi II and III.
SE ridge
SE ridge (Kirkus-Warren route). IV. 1933-06-18First ascentColin F. Kirkus & Charles Warren, 1933-06-18.
Normal route. Via SW flanks and SE ridge. FA was done as four day alpine style ascent.
South face
Les Temps Sauvages. 6a,A2; 1300m. 1998-05-01First ascentArnaud Guillaume & Remi Thivel, 1998-05.
SW face
Impossible Star (Spanish Route). 6c,A3+, 60°; 1300m, 28 pitches. 1984-05-01First ascentJuan C. Aldeuger, Sergio Martinez, José L. Moreno & Juan Thomás, 1984-05.
left hand Pillar of West face. Harder and steeper than Scottish (SW) pillar.
Russian Route. nccs VI 5.11 A4; 1110m. 1998-10-01First ascentVladimir Kachkov.Yuri Koshelenko, Andrei Lukin, Igor Potankin, 1998-10.
Slovenian Route. ED+; VIII,A4, 85°; 1100m. 1990-09-01First ascentJanez Jeglič & Silvo Karo, 1990-09.
Stairway to Heaven (South-West pillar). 7b,A2; 1300m. 2004-05-01First ascentWalter Hölzler & Jörg Pflugmacher, 2004-05.
Scottish Route (SW pillar). 5.8,A2, 45-60°; 1300m, 44 pitches. 1982-11-01First ascentRobert Barton & Allen Fyffe, 1982-11.
West face. ED; 6b/5.10d, M5 WI5; 1300m. 2009-09-22First ascentMarko Prezelj, Rok Blagus & Luka Lindic, 2009-09-22.
Czech Express (Czech Direct, Central Pillar of South West Face). VII, 50°. 1993-08-01First ascentZdeněk Šlachta & Zdeděk Michalec, 1993-08.
Mana Parbat group
Mana Parvat I (Mana Parbat)30.96555555679.2127777786794
1970-10-08
Mana Parvat I, ,
First ascent
Party from Ind
Mana Parvat II6771
1995-06-06
Mana Parvat II, ,
First ascent
Party from Ind
Chaturangi6407
Arwa group
Arwa Tower30.84333379.3841676352
1900-01-01
Event
  • Fowler, Mick: On Thin Ice - Alpine Climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya. Isbn: 9781898573586. Baton Wicks Publications, 2005.
NE face
NE face (Lightning Strike). nccs VI M5 5.9 A3; 5/5+,A3; 900m, 6 days. 2007-06-07First ascentStephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf & Denis Burdet, 2007-06-07.
South Face
French Route. 4c, M5/80°; 500m. 2002-05-01First ascentPellissier & Savary, 2002-05.
NW face
NW face. ED+/nccs VI 5b A3 Sco V/VI; 1000m. 1999-05-14First ascentMick Fowler & Steve Sustad, 1999-05-14.
  • Fowler, Mick: On Thin Ice - Alpine Climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya. Isbn: 9781898573586. Baton Wicks Publications, 2005.
NW Buttress (Pilier Guilhem Chaffiol). TD+; 6b; 550m, 14 pitches. 2002-05-01First ascentMunoz, Miston, de Choudens & Muffat-Joly, 2002-05.
Arwa Spires30.8179.366193
1900-01-01
Event
East summit, East ridge
East ridge. TD; WI4/Sco V, VI/5.9; 1000m. 2000-01-01First ascentAndy Benson & Pete Benson, 2000.
North face
Fior di Vite. nccs V 6+ A2 80; VI+,A2/7a, 80°/M5; 800m. 2002-01-01First ascentStephan Harvey, Bruno Hasler & Roger Schali, 2002.
West Spire, North pillar
Capsico. nccs VI A3 M6+; A3, M6+; 800m, 12 pitches. 2002-01-01First ascentStephan Harvey, Bruno Hasler & Roger Schali, 2002.

Kamet group

Located to the east of Saraswati valley. Despite the fact that the highest mountains of Garhwal are to be found in this group, they are still somewhat overshadowed by more famous peaks around Gangotri.

Kamet30.9279.5933333337756
Kamet is the second-highest peak in the Garhwal Himalaya region, after the much better-known Nanda Devi. Kamet was the first summit over 25 000ft (7620m) to be climbed, and was the highest summit reached until the first ascent of Nanda Devi five years later. (However, far higher non-summit altitudes had been reached on the north side of Mount Everest in the 1920s.)
1931-06-21
Kamet, ,
First ascent
Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton, R.L. Holdsworth & Lewa Sherpa
  • Moran, Martin: Higher Ground - A Mountain Guide's Life. Isbn: 9781908737557. Sandstone Press, 2014.
  • +Belles, pp.113
North side
NE Ridge. Usually 5 camps. 1931-01-01First ascentFrank Smythe, Eric Shipton, R.L. Holdsworth & Lewa Sherpa, 1931.
Normal route. Via the Purbi (East) Kamet Glacier, Meade’s Col (Kamet-Abi Gamin, 7100m) and the northeast ridge.
NW Ridge. Usually 5 camps. 2003-06-12First ascentAng Tashi sherpa & Satyabrata Dam, 2003-06-12.
from Meade’s Col traverse to NW ridge.
SE Face
Samurai Direct. WI5+ M5+; 1800m. 2008-10-05First ascentKazuya Hiraide & Kei Taniguchi, 2008-10-05.
Piolet d'Or together with other ascents.
SW Face
Spicy Game. ED1; 5+, 90°; 2000m. 2012-09-25First ascentSébastien Bohin, Didier Jourdan, Sébastien Moatti & Sébastien Ratel, 2012-09-25.
Joint winner of the Piolets d'Or 2013.
Abi Gamin30.9379.67355
1900-01-01
Event
NE ridge
NE ridge. 1950-08-22First ascentAlfred Tissierès, R. Dittert & G. Chevalley, 1950-08-22.
SW ridge
SW ridge. 1953-01-01First ascentNandu Jayal et al., 1953.
Normal route. W ridge from Meade's Col, reached up the East flank.
Mana I30.88083333379.6158333337272
1900-01-01
Event
NW ridge
NW ridge. 1966-09-13First ascentPranesh Chakraborty, Pasang Phutar, Tshering Lhakpa & Pasang Tshering, 1966-09-13.
South ridge
South ridge. 1937-08-12First ascentFrank Smythe, 1937-08-12.
Mukut Parvat (Mukut Parbat)30.94916666779.577242
  • Mukut Parbat (7242m30.94916666779.57)
  • Mukut Parbat (7130m)
1951-07-11
Mukut Parvat, ,
First ascent
H.E. Riddiford, F.M. Cotter & Pasang Dawa Lama
NW ridge
NW ridge. 1951-01-01First ascentH.E. Riddiford, F.M. Cotter & Pasang Dawa Lama, 1951.
Mana NW (Mana II)7092
1900-01-01
Event
Saraswati Parvat I31.03166666779.5016666676940
1992-08-18
Saraswati Parvat I, ,
First ascent
Mrs. Terasawa, Takako Kato, Mayumi Shirasawa, Emiko Yamaguchi, Yoshie Kameda, Eri Kusuda & Aparna Pangtey
SE ridge
SE ridge. 1992-08-19First ascentMrs. Terasawa, Takako Kato, Mayumi Shirasawa, Emiko Yamaguchi, Yoshie Kameda, Eri Kusuda & Aparna Pangtey, 1992-08-19.

Nanda Devi group

Nanda Devi. Nanda Devi group forms a westwards opening Horseshoe of high peaks above Rishi gorge known as Nanda Devi Sactuary. Nanda Devi (7816m) is the highest peak in Indian Himalaya (23rd highest in the world) and arguably the most beautiful. There are several other highly noteworthy peaks on the rim of the Sanctuary like Changabang (6864m), Dunagiri (7066m) and Kalanka (6931m).

Northern Nanda Devi Subsection

Dunagiri group

westernmost group north of Rishi gorge. Dunagiri group is SW-NE group with the following main peaks: Hanuman (6075m) - Dunagiri (7066m) - Purbi Dunagiri (6489m). The group has several subsidiary ridges. Dunagiri group forms the outer Sanctuary wall that connects to inner Sanctuary by a ridge leading fromDunagiri via Bagani col to Changabang.

Sanctuary NW

NW part of Inner Sanctuary wall. Two main peaks, Kalanka (6931m) and Changabang (6864m) are both famous climbing objectives. Particularly Changabang is very famous due to several milestone ascents, most done as envelope pushing alpine style endeavours. NE part of the chain is accessible from Bagani glacier outside the sanctuary and SW side from Rhamani glacier between Inner and outer sanctuary walls. SE side of the group rise above Changabang and Uttari Rishi glaciers from inside the Sanctuary.

Southern Nanda Devi Subsection

Trisul group

Trisul group runs generally from north to south and forms the SW outer Sanctuary wall. The group is connected to Inner Sanctuary wall by a ridge joining Trisul II to Devitoli (6788m).

The three peaks are named Trisul I, Trisul II, and Trisul III. The massif is a north-south ridge, with Trisul I at the north end and Trisul III at the south.

Sanctuary South

SW chain of Inner Sanctuary. Generally north-south chain with Devistan II (6529m) - Devistan (6678m) - Devitoli (6788) - Maiktoli (6803m) and Sundardhunga Kkal (5520m). From there the ridge runs from SW to NE to Longstaff col (5910m), south of Nanda Devi East. Nanda Khot group is connected to the group by a ridge joining Sanctuary wall between Nanda Khat and Longstaff col.

Eastern Nanda Devi Subsection

Nanda Devi South
Nanda Devi
Nanda Devi30.37583333379.9716666677816

Nanda Devi is the highest peak in Gahrwal Himal. It lies inside the sanctuary. Nanda Devi East ridge connects to Nanda Devi east, located on the Sanctuary wall. Other main ridges are complex NW ridge system and relatively short SW and South ridges. NW ridge has several subsidiary ridges.

The first ascent in 1936 was at the time the highest peak to be climbed and remained so until the first ascent of Annapurna I in 1950. Attempts were made from 1965 to 1968 by the Central Intelligence Agency (CIA), in co-operation with the Indian Intelligence Bureau (IB), to place a nuclear-powered telemetry relay listening device on the summit of Nanda Devi. The device was designed to intercept telemetry signals from Chinese missile test launches in Xinjiang Province. All existing routes are long and technical. The peak lies within Nanda Devi Sanctuary and is thus currently off limits as the sanctuary has been closed to climbing.

1936-08-29
Nanda Devi, ,
First ascent
Party from USA/UK
  • World Mountaineering pp.254-257
  • Roskelley, John: Nanda Devi - The Tragic Expedition. Isbn: 9780898867398. Mountaineers Books, 2000.
  • Shipton, Eric & Tilman, H. W.: Nanda Devi - Exploration and Ascent. Isbn: 9780898867213. Mountaineers Books, 2000.
North Face
North Face & Northeast Pillar. VI,A3; 3000m. 1981-01-01First ascentSrovnal, Kadlcik, Horka, Palecek, Karafa, Rakoncaj & Sulovsky, 1981.
The pillar joins NW ridge, a bit NW of the summit.
South side
South Ridge (Coxcomb Ridge). D; Sco II/III. 1936-08-26First ascentH.W. Tilman & Noel Odell, 1936-08-26.
  • Wolfe pp.89
  • Venables pp.112
South face. 1977-01-01First ascentRoberts, Harder, Smith & Jones, 1977.
West face
Northwest Face & North Buttress (1976 American route). VI. 1976-09-01First ascentJohn Roskelley, Jim States & Lou Reichardt, 1976-09-01.
Sunanda Peak (Nanda Devi East, Sunanda Devi)30.36611111179.9916666677434
1939-07-02
Sunanda Peak, ,
First ascent
Polish expedition led by Adam Karpiński
Trisul group
Trisul I30.31166666779.7766666677120
The highest peak to be climbed at the time of first ascent. Also the first use of supplementary oxygen in a major climb.
1900-01-01
Event
NE flank & North ridge
NE flank & North ridge. Snow/glacier, 1907-06-12First ascentTom Longstaff, A. Brocherel, H. Brocherel & Karbir, 1907-06-12.
  • Wolfe pp.74
West Face
3000m
Yougoslavian route. 1976-01-01First ascentYougoslavian expedition, 1976.
Trisul II30.2979.776690
1900-01-01
Event
SE ridge
SE ridge. 1960-01-01First ascentYugoslav team, 1960.
Trisul III30.2579.776007
1900-01-01
Event
North ridge
North ridge. 1960-01-01First ascentYugoslav team, 1960.
Sabctuary South
Maiktoli6803
1934-08-12
Maiktoli, ,
First ascent
Party from UK
South ridge
South ridge. 1977-05-29First ascentNishimura & Yamaguchi, 1977-05-29.
Panwali Dwar30.28944479.9558336663
1900-01-01
Event
SE ridge
SE ridge. 1980-01-01First ascentfour climbers led by Keisuke Nakae, 1980.
  • Moran, Martin: Higher Ground - A Mountain Guide's Life. Isbn: 9781908737557. Sandstone Press, 2014.
Nanda Khat30.30111179.9766676611
1900-01-01
Event
From Pindari valley. 1931-01-01First ascentHuge Ruttledge, Sri PN Choudhary & porter Pansingh, 1931.
Nanda Devi East
Milam group
Hardeol (Trishuli South)30.5680.0108333337151
1978-05-31
Hardeol, ,
First ascent
Indo-Tibetan Border Police
North ridge
North ridge. 1978-03-31First ascentIndo-Tibetan Border Police, 1978-03-31.
Tirsuli I30.58166666780.027074
1966-10-09
Tirsuli I, ,
First ascent
N. Mallik, S. Chakravorty, Tashi (Sherpa) & Dorji (Sherpa)
Tirsuli II (Tirsuli West)7035
2001-07-17
Tirsuli II, ,
First ascent
K.S. Dhami, SS Bhandari, Rattan Singh, Amrik Singh, Jagmohan Singh, Karamjit Singh & Laxman Singh
Nanda Kot group
Nanda Kot30.2880.0683333336861
Nanda Kot is connected to the Sanctuary wall by a high pass known as the Pindari Kanda, 5269m. This pass, Nanda Kot itself, and the ridge proceeding south from the peak together form the divide between the Pindar and Ghori Ganga River valleys, with Dana Dhura Pass connecting the two sides.
1900-01-01
Event
South Face
South Face. D+. 1995-01-01First ascentBritish team led by Martin Moran, 1995.
Changuch6322
1900-01-01
Event
NW ridge
NW ridge. D-; 3 days. 2009-06-09First ascentBritish team led by Martin Moran, 2009-06-09.
  • Moran, Martin: Higher Ground - A Mountain Guide's Life. Isbn: 9781908737557. Sandstone Press, 2014.
Nanda Devi North
Dunagiri group
Dunagiri30.51579.8666666677066
The highest peak of Dunagiri group and located at the center of the group. South and East faces are accessible from Rhamani glacier, North face from Gannakhui glacier and west face from narrow tributary valley of Gannakhui glacier.
1900-01-01
Event
South side
SE buttress (South ridge). 1975-10-08First ascentJoe Tasker & Dick Renshaw, 1975-10-08.
SW ridge. 1939-07-05First ascentAndré Roch, F. Steuri & D. Zogg, 1939-07-05.
Purbi Dunagiri6489
Northeastern main peak of Dunagiri group. South and east sides are accessible from Bagani glacier, west side from Dunagiri glacier.
1900-01-01
Event
South face
South face. 1988-01-01First ascentNidhir Kumar Pal, Debabrata Mukherjee, Sher Singh Rawat & Nandan Sigh, 1988.
Sanctuary NW
Rishi Pahar30.532579.99756992
1975-09-27
Rishi Pahar, ,
First ascent
via the west ridge
West side
West ridge. 1975-01-01First ascentvia the west ridge, 1975.
Kalanka30.50333333379.9416666676931
Higher eastern neighbour of more famous Changabang. NE and SW ridges are part of Sanctuary wall. Third main ride is SE ridge which connects to long and complex sifge system separating Changanag (west) and Uttari Rishi (east) glaciers inside the sanctuary and south and east faces of the peak.
1975-06-03
Kalanka, ,
First ascent
Noriaki Ikeda, Kazumasa Ioue, Tsuneo Kouma, Ikuo Tanabe & T Singh
North Face
Bushido (North East Face and Central Spur). M5+; 1800m. 2008-10-01First ascentKazuaki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura & Yusuke Sato, 2008-10.
Piolet d'Or Asia.
Czechoslovakian Route. V; 1700m. 1977-01-01First ascentLadislav Jon & Josef Rakoncaj, 1977.
South Face
South Face to West Ridge. 1975-06-02First ascentNoriaki Ikeda, Kazumasa Ioue, Tsuneo Kouma, Ikuo Tanabe & T Singh, 1975-06-02.
across Shipton Col, then up the South Face to gain the col between Changabang and Kalanka. From here they followed the West Ridge of the latter to its summit.
South Face Direct. 1982-01-01First ascentGerry Besl, Peter Farbiger, Manfred Hesse & Bernhard Lukas, 1982.
South Face. 1978-01-01First ascentBob Barton & Alan Fyffe, 1978.
Up a rib on the right side of the South Face.
South Face to East Ridge. 1982-01-01First ascentErwin Prazenthaler & Karl Schrag, 1982.
slope right of the Barton-Fyffe Route to gain a small col on the East Ridge, up which to the top.
Saf Minal30.52833333379.9666666676911
1975-10-02
Saf Minal, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
North face
North face (NW face). 2000m. 2004-10-05First ascentIan Parnell & John Varco, 2004-10-05.
Changabang30.579.9269444446864
Impressive and very difficult peak located on Nanda Devi Sanctuary. The peak has three main ridges: NE ridge from Kalanka Changabang col, South ridge from Shiton col and NW ridge from bagani col (Dunagiri). Despite being lower than several other peaks in the group, probably the most famous peak in the area. All routes are highly technical and many of them milestones in mountaineering history.
1900-01-01
Event
  • Boardman, Peter & Tasker, Joe: The Shining Mountain, 1st Vintage Books Ed edition. Isbn: 0394729293. Vintage Books, 1985.
  • Cave, Andy: Learning to Breathe. Isbn: 009947266X. Arrow, 2006.
  • Fowler, Mick: On Thin Ice - Alpine Climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya. Isbn: 9781898573586. Baton Wicks Publications, 2005.
  • Bonington, Chris; Boysen, Martin; Hankinson, Alan; Haston, Dougal; Sandhu, Balwant & Scott, Doug: Changabang. Isbn: 0195198360. Oxford University Press, 1976.
  • Tasker, Joe: Savage Arena, 1st U.S. Ed Edition edition. Isbn: 9780312699840. St. Martin's Press, 1982.
North Face
Very difficult 1600m north face that was first climbed by British team of Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy followed by Mick Fowlewr and Steve Sustad a day later. Brendan Murphy was swept to his death by avalanche during the descent. The ascent is featured on books by both Mick Fowler and Andy Cave ("Learning to Breathe").
North face. Sco VI; 1600m. 1997-06-06First ascentAndy Cave & Brendan Murphy, 1997-06-06.
The Lightening route. nccs VII 5.9,A4 WI4; 1580m. 1998-01-01First ascentCarlos Buehler, Dusharin, Mariev, Shabalin & Volkov, 1998.
SE side
South Ridge. 1981-01-01First ascentUgo Manera & Lino Castiglia, 1981.
Direct start to SW ridge from Shipton col.
South Buttress (Direct South Face). VI,A3, Sco V; 1700m, 8 days. 1978-09-27First ascentWojciech Kurtyka, Krzysztof Zurek, Alex MacIntyre & John Porter, 1978-09-27.
1976 route. Ice, nccs VI WI4; 1700m. 1976-01-01First ascentSyd Clark, Dr. Jim Duff, Colin Reid, Alan Roberts, & Ted Rogers, 1976.
SE face and East Ridge. Snow/ice, AD/D; 2500m. 1974-06-04First ascentChris Bonigton, Dougal Haston, Balwant Sandhu & Doug Scott, 1974-06-04.
Normal route. Via Kalanka-Changabang col.
SW Ridge. 1976-01-01First ascentNaoki Toda, Akira Kobayashi, Masahide Aida, Harumi Ohno, Yukio Asano & Teruyoshi Karino, 1976.
SW face
West face. VI,A2; 1250m. 1976-10-15First ascentPete Boardman & Joe Tasker, 1976-10-15.
Legendary climb, milestone of alpinism. Boardman and Tasker pushed the envelope on what is possible in greater Ranges.

Panchchuli group

Panchuli group is -SE ridge between Gori Ganga (Munsiyari) in the west and Lassar yanka in the east. It runs from Lassar located on Tibetan border. The best known part of the group is Panch Chilu group in the southern part of the group. This is also where the highest peak Panch Chuli II (6904m) is located. Northern part of the group consists if Chiring We massif, which contains several little known peaks around 6500m.

Chiring We massif

Northern part of Panch chuli group consists if Chiring We massif, which contains several little known peaks around 6500m. Northern part of the group extends from Lassar located on Tibetan border - Kalanga Dhura (6215m) - Bamba Dhura (6334m) – Chiring We (6559m) – Suli Top (6300m) – Trigal (5983m) and Suitilla (6373m) to Ralam pass. Peaks south of Ralam pass include Chaudhara (6510m) - Rajramba (6539m) and Ngalaphu (6410m). These peaks are located very close to Panchuli peaks.

Panch Chuli

Panchchuli peaks are a group of five snow-capped Himalayan peaks lying at the end of the eastern Kumaon region, near Munsiyari. They form the watershed between the Gori and the Darmaganga valleys. Panchchuli is also located on the Gori Ganga-Lassar Yankti divide. The five peaks on the Panchchuli massif are numbered from northwest to southeast. The highest peak is Panchchuli II (6904), which was first scaled by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition, led by Mahendra Singh, on 26 May 1973.

  • Saunders, Victor: No Place to Fall - Superalpinism in the High Himalaya (Teach Yourself). Isbn: 9780340572269. Teach Yourself Books, 1994.
Panch Chuli massif
Panch Chuli II (Panch Chuli)30.21416666780.42756904
1900-01-01
Event
North ridge
North ridge. 1992-01-01First ascentSuraj Bhan Dalal, 1992.
NE ridge
NE ridge. 1992-01-01First ascentN.B. Gurag, 1992.
West side
SW Ridge. 1973-05-26First ascentIndo-Tibetan Border Police expedition led by Mahendra Singh, 1973-05-26.
West ridge. 1992-06-08First ascentChris Bonington & Grahamn Little, 1992-06-08.
Panch Chuli V30.1880.476437
1900-01-01
Event
South ridge
South ridge. 1992-06-01First ascentDick Renshaw, Victor Saunders, Stephen Sustad & Stephen Venables, 1992-06.
Chiring We massif
Chiring We30.4280.36559
A remotely situated 6599m snow peak close to the head of the Kalabaland Glacier in northern Kumaun.
1900-01-01
Event
West Ridge
West Ridge. 1979-06-10First ascentZerksis Boga, Nayankumar Katira, Kami Tsering sherpa & Lakhpa Tsering sherpa, 1979-06-10.
Suitilla
Chaudhara30.2880.376510
1900-01-01
Event
West face
West face. 1973-01-01First ascentA.R. Chandekar & Sherpa Ajeeba, 1973.
Rajrambha30.2580.376539
1900-01-01
Event
  • Venables, Stephen & Willis, Clint: A Slender Thread - Escaping Disaster in the Himalaya (Adrenaline). Isbn: 9781560252986. Da Capo Press, 2001.
North side
From north. 1976-01-01First ascentITBP team, 1976.

Kalapani group

Far eastern part of Uttarakhand Himalaya, located close to Nepal border. The highest peaks of the area are Sangthang (6430m) and P. 6172. The area is probably the least known part of Uttarakhand Himalaya.

  • Moran, Martin: Higher Ground - A Mountain Guide's Life. Isbn: 9781908737557. Sandstone Press, 2014.

Eastern India

Sikkim

West Sikkim

West Sikkim consists of several ridges extending east from Kanchenjunga Himal main ridge forming the border between Nepal (west) and Sikkim (east). The highest and best known peak of the area is Kanchenjunga. of the peaks located completely in Sikkim, Siniolchu (6888m) is probably the best known.

Tent Peak – Putung La

Tent Peak – Putung La and further. Several peaks close to 6000m and few a little over.

Zemu group

Kanchenjunga South – Zemu Gap – Simvu – Chibge La – Siniolchu. The ridge system is complex with numerous side branches. In particular it divides in two at Siniolchu. The northern branch is only separated by narrow col from North-south group of peaks forming western border of Lachen Chu valley and containing reasonable high peaks like Angdang (5868m)

Pandim group

Kabru North – Kabru Dome – Pandim – Japuno (5936m). Complex ridge system with numerous side ridges.

Chorten Nyima range

Chorten Nyima range is located in NW corner of Sikkim, forming the border between Tibet (north) and Sikkim (south). It connects to Kanchenjunga Himal at Jongsang (7462m). The group contains several high 6000ers with Chorten Nyima (6927m) being the highest. None of the peaks in the range are famous. Access is (and particularly has been) highly restricted, so ascents are few and far between.

Dongkya range

Kangchengyao group

West-east ridge with Kangchengyao (Gyao Chang , 6889m) - Yulhekhang (6429m) - Gurudongmar (6715m) - Sanglaphu (6224m) – Donkya La (5495m).

Chombu group

North-south ridge with Chombu (6362m) running south from Yulhekhang (6429).

Donkya group

Group between Donkya La (5495m) in the west and Karpo la in the East with Donkya Ri (6190m) – P. 6517 – P. 6626 – P. 6911.

Pauhunri group

Pauhunri group forming the border between Sikkim (west) and Tibet (east) with the main peaks from north to south: Pauhunri (7128m) – Shudu Tsenpa (7032m) – P. 6730 – P. 6698 – Gora La.

Chola range

Forms the border between Sikkim (west) and Bhutan (east). The highest peak of the range is Rishila.

West Sikkim

Zemu group
Simvo6811
1936-01-01
Simvo, ,
First ascent
Paul Bauer, Adi Göttner, Karl Wien & Günther Hep
Siniolchu27.71138988.3177786887
1936-01-01
Siniolchu, ,
First ascent
Karl Wien & Adi Göttner
North face

Chorten Nyima range

Chorten Nyima Ri (Chorten Nyima)27.9588.1788888896927
1930-06-12
Chorten Nyima Ri, ,
First ascent
Party from Ger
Kellas Peak6680
Peak names after Scottish Alexander Kellas who made several trips into Sikkim on 1900's-1920's and did several first ascents during those trips. He also attempted Kellas Peak in 1921, but did not succeed.
Chomo Yummo28.03333333388.5458333336829
1910-01-01
Chomo Yummo, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: Alexander Kellas
    North side
    NE ridge. Snow, 1910-01-01First ascentAlexander Kellas, 1910.

    Dongkya range

    Kangchengyao group
    Kangchengyao27.98583333388.6556889
    1912-08-06
    Kangchengyao, ,
    First ascent
    Party from UK
    1982-01-01
    Kangchengyao, NE ridge,
    First ascent
    NE ridge: Indian Army expedition under Vijay Singh
      North side
      NE ridge. Snow, 1982-01-01First ascentIndian Army expedition under Vijay Singh, 1982.
      Gurudongmar6715
      • Gurudongmar (6715m)
      • Gurudongmar West (6630m)
      1936-01-01
      Gurudongmar, ,
      First ascent
      Eric Shipton & E.G.H. Kempson. Somewhat unclear, they may have climbed West peak
      Pauhunri group
      Pauhunri27.952588.8433333337128
      1910-06-16
      Pauhunri, ,
      First ascent
      Alexander Kellas. At the time the highest climbed peak.

      Assam Himal

      Assam Himalaya is a traditional designation for the portion of the Himalaya range between the eastern border of Bhutan, on the west, and the Great Bend of the Tsangpo River, on the east. The area is partly located in Indian Assam while other parts of the range are located in southeastern Tibet, and some are in the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh. Here, Namche Barwa (also Namjagbarwa, 7782m) and it's sister peak Gyala Peri (7295m) in the southeaster part of Tibet mark the eastern end of Himalayan range. They rise high above the canyon of Yarlung Tsanpo river in Medog county.

      Many of the high peaks are located either on a border or on the Chinese side and have not been climbed from the Indian side. In fact, of high peaks of Assam Himalaya only Gori Chen (6858m) is regularly climbed from India.

      Kangto group

      The high range of the Kangto section is least known of all Himalayan area. It lies in a gigantic curve running roughly west-southwest and east-northeast between the passes of the Tulung la and Keshong la. Dominating peak of the range is Kangto (7060m). Access from the north (Tibet) is far easier than from the heavily forested south. Westernmost main peak, Gorichen is easiest to access from the south.

      Namche Barwa group

      Namche Barwa (also Namjagbarwa, 7782m) and it's sister peak Gyala Peri (7295m) lie in the southeaster part of Tibet mark the eastern end of Himalayan range. They rise high above the canyon of Yarlung Tsanpo river in Medog county of China.

      Gyala Peri group

      Gyala Peri is sometimes considered to be part of Namche Barwa Himalaay, sometimes part of Nyanchen Tanglha Shan. The latter is probably correct in geographical terms, however, for logistical purposes, the former classification makes sense.

      Kangto group

      Gorichen group

      Gorichen is a high rock and ice peak and the most western and most easily accessed of the main Arunchal peaks. Today it is the most frequented of the Assam peaks. The elevation of the mountain is still disputed; the 1994 Indian expedition revised it from 6858m to 6488m/21286ft, but also other elevations have been measured. The mountain has several subsidiary, slightly lower peaks, which also have been climbed.

      Gorichen I6488
      1966-10-29
      Gorichen I, ,
      First ascent
      Maj. J.C. Joshi, Capt. N. Thapa, Lt. A.J.B. Jaini, Lt. N.P. Rajagopal, Nk. Mann Singh, L/Nk Darshan Singh, L/Nk Hira Bahadur & Gyamtsola
      Gorichen (Gorichen II)6488
      India. The highest peak of Arunachal Pradesh and probably the most frequented peak in the whole Assam Himalaya.
      1993-01-01
      Gorichen, ,
      First ascent
      Dutch expedition
      Gorichen East6422
      Kangto group
      Kangto (Kanggardo Rize)27.86592.53257090
      • Kangto North (7037m)
      • Kangto (Kanggardo Rize) (7090m27.86592.5325)
      1988-02-24
      Kangto, ,
      First ascent
      Japanese expedition from Tibet
      1988-03-24
      Kangto, NW ridge,
      First ascent
      NW ridge: Takafumi Miyazaki & Kosuke Takano
      West side
      NW ridge. 1988-03-24First ascentTakafumi Miyazaki & Kosuke Takano, 1988-03-24.
      The long NW ridge is gained from the narrow valley south (between (NW and West ridges). Via North summit to main peak.
      Yalaxianbo6635
      Nyegyi Kansang group
      Nyegyi Kansang (Nyegyi Kangtsang, Nygyi Kangto)27.93666666792.6666666676983
      1988-01-01
      Nyegyi Kansang, ,
      First ascent
      Doshisha University AC
      1995-10-23
      Nyegyi Kansang, ,
      Event
      Indian expedition. The team crossed into Tibet and the summiteers reached a point about 600 m lower than the real summit. Faced with evidence and studies this time the leader and summiteers had to admit that this was the case.
      Takpa Shiri6655
      Takpa Siri is a holy mountain just north of the Indian border, near the Tibetan village of Migyitun.

      Gyalha Peri group

      Gyalha Peri (Gyala Peri, Gyalha Bairi Feng)29.81594.9716666677295
      1986-10-31
      Gyalha Peri, South ridge,
      First ascent
      South ridge: Y. Hashimoto, H. Imamura & Yoshio Ogata
      South ridge
      South ridge (West face & South ridge). 1986-10-31First ascentY. Hashimoto, H. Imamura & Yoshio Ogata, 1986-10-31.
      Sendapu (Sengdom Pu, Sedong Ri)29.8494.94256812
      On a ridge between Tiba Kangri and Gyala Peri

      Namche Barwa group

      Namcha Barwa (Namjagbarwa, Namche Barwa)29.63166666795.0557782
      Rises stupendous 5000-6800m above Yanglung Tsangpo. Was the highest unclimbed peak after the first ascent of Batura Sar (Karakoram) in 1976 until Japanese party made the successful first ascent.
      1992-10-30
      Namcha Barwa, ,
      First ascent
      Japanase/Chinese expedition via South Ridge.
      1992-10-30
      Namcha Barwa, South ridge,
      First ascent
      South ridge: Japanase Chinese expedition via South Ridge.
      • +Belles, pp157
      • Japanese Alpine News Gankar Punsum, Namcha Barwa and Gyala Peri massifs
      South ridge
      South ridge (SSW ridge). Snow/oce, 1992-10-30First ascentJapanase Chinese expedition via South Ridge., 1992-10-30.
      Normal route. Over Nai Peng (7043).
      West face
      Overwhelming 3000m West face
      Sanglung29.66333333395.1366666677095
      Sanglung is located 8 km east of Namcha Barwa inside of the Great Bend.
      Nai Peng (Naipung, Nepen)7043
      1983-04-21
      Nai Peng, ,
      First ascent
      Party from Chn