Stuck in someone's frames?
Free yourself!

Himalaya

General

Most of the worlds highest mountains are located in the vast and complex Himalayan range (that means The Land of Snow). It forms over 2000km broad crescent through Northeastern Pakistan (Punjab), Northern India (Garhwahl), Southern Tibet, Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. It is bordered on the north by the plateau of Central Asia and on the south by the fertile plains of the India. Ten of the world's fourteen 8000-meter peaks are located in Himalaya (the remaining are located in Karakoram).

Accessibility varies dramatically between different area, some areas are reasonably accessible while some are completely inaccessible. Climbing in Himalaya and Karakoram involves some bureocracy as climbers have to have a permit and there are other regulations as well. Accessibility varies dramatically between different area, some areas are reasonably accessible while some are completely inaccessible. Annapurna and Khumbu areas in Nepal are usually most accessible. The price of the permits varies considerably with Mount Everest from the Nepalse side being the most expensive. In the other end of the price range are so called "trekking peaks".

Künschner Iris: Himalaya - Gipfel der Götter. Brukmann, 2002. Isbn: 978-3765439360.

Maps of Asia & Himalaya

Climbing in the Himalaya Region: Information about the regulations and fees of climbing in Himalaya.
Everest News: Big site containing information about the expeditions to high mountains.
Himalaya: List of most important peaks at Alpex High Alpine Expeditions.
Himalayan Index: The Himalayan Index, an extensive record of expeditions to Asian peaks over 6000m.
The Indian Himalaya: A Brief Review: At Indian Mountaineering Foundation.

Punjab Himal (Pakistan & India)

Punjab Himal is located in disputed Kashmir area. The area is notorious of the dispute between Pakistan and India. It's located north of the city of Islamabad and south of Karakoram, separated from it by the river Indus.

The highest and most famous mountain is Nanga Parbat, the westernmost of 8000m peaks, that rises far apart of other 8000m peaks of Himalaya. Nunkun (7135m), located on Indian side of the border, is also reasonably well-known among climbers.

Season lasts from May to early June.

Usual access to climbs in Punjab Himal, as well as western Karakoram (K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum) and eastern part of Kunlun Shan (Kongur, Muztagh Ata), is to take an international flight to Islamabad. From there Karakoram Highway heads north to Kashgar (China). Gilgit, lying close to highway, is the most commonly used base for climbs in Punjab Himal. Drive from Islamabad takes about 24 hours. It is also possible to fly from Islamabad (~1h). Skardu, located closer to Karakoram, to the east of Gilgit, is another convenient center in the area (accessible by car from Gilgit).

map. at Footprint Adventures.

Nanga Parbat (Diamir) (8126m)

Nanga Parbat lies isolated from the other 8000m peaks of Himalaya in Punjab Himal, Pakistan, north of the city of Islamabad, not very far away from Karakoram. It is the most westernly of the 8000 meter peaks and is notorious of avalanches and fierce storms.
summits:
- Main (8126m)
- Rakhiot Peak (7070m)
- North Peak (7816m)

1895	Attemp	First attemp C.G. Bruce, Dr. J.N. Collie, G. Hastings and Alfred Mummery made first attemp in 1895 in lightweight alpine style. Mummery and two Gurkhas disappeared when trying to cross a pass between Rakhiot and Diamir glaciers.
1939	Attemp	Germans made several attemps in the 30ies. Most famous of them is the 1939 expedition during which the team was interned in India as the World war II broke out during the expedition. This began the saga of escape and travel in India and Tibet that is described in a book 'Seven Years in Tibet' written by Austrian member of the expedition Heinrich Harrer. It was filmed in 1990 whit Brad Pitt playing Harrer.
1953	First ascent	First ascent by Hermann Buhl in 1953 via Rakhiot Face. He was a member of expedition led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer. Herman Buhl's book 'Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage' describes the first ascent. This is very legendary ascent during which Buhl endured a bivouac at over 8000m.
1978	Ascent	Reinhold Messner summited in 1970 with his brother Gunther via Rupal Face. On the descent via Diamir Face Gunther perished. Messner returned in 1978 to solo a new route on Diamir Face (book by Messner: 'Nanga Parbat Solo'.

Buhl Herman: Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage. Isbn: 978-1898573272.
Harrer Heinrich: Seven Years in Tibet. Isbn: 9780874778885.
Messner Reinhold: Nanga Parbat Solo. Isbn: 978-0195201963.
Märtin Ralf: Nanga Parbat - Wahrheit und Wahn des Alpinismus. Berlin Verlag, 2002. Isbn: 978-3833300936.

Nanga Parbat: Mountain page at Peakware.
Nanga Parbat: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Diamir Face (NW Face)

Approach via Karakorum highway via Rowalpindi to Genar Farm or Bunar Das. Access to base camp is multi-day hike through Bunar and Diamir valleys. Base Camp is located on a big plain under Diamir Face at 4500m.

Kinshofer Route

UIAA IV-V, 90° . 3900m, usually 3-4 high camps

1962

First ascent

Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mennhardt & Siegi Löw. They were members of expedition led by Karl Maria Herligkoffer.

Rakhiot Face (NE face)

Rises 7000m above Indus river in just 27km. Technically easiest route but very serious due to avalanche danger.
From Raikot Bridge along Karakoram Highway toTatu Village. From there to fairy Meadow (3300m, 3-4h from tatu village) and further to base camp.

1953

First ascent

Hermann Buhl

Rupal face (South face)

4600m high Rupal face is often regarded as the highest mountain face.

Central Pillar

WI4 M5 5.9 . 8 days round trip

First ascent

Steve House & Vince Anderson

Garhwal Himal (Western India)

The main mountaineering areas in India are Garhwal Himal and Kumaon regions of Uttar Pradesh (also known as Utteranchal), located in the northern India, northeast of Delhi. The name Garhwal has been used interchangeably with the name Kumaun Himalaya, and has for the most part replaced the latter, although originally the two names described slightly different regions. Garhwal consists of rugged mountains and valleys, Kumaon is more gently angles.

In eastern Part of the Garhwal lies Uttarakhand Himal and especially Gangotri area, the best known climbing area in India. The Highest peak in the area is Nanda Devi (7816m, 23rd highest peak in the world). Together with surrounding peaks it forms impressive Nanda Devi Sanctuary. Besides Nanda Devi itself, the area has several other famous peaks including Trisul (7120m), Changabang, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar (6904m), Shivling (6543m), Meru and summits of Bhagirathi.

Central and western parts of the area are less famous. In central part of the lies Kamet (7756m).

Best season is from April-June, in the areas not affected by Monsoon from April until October. Mountain climbing in India is regulated by Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF).

Thalay Sagar (Phatig Pithwara) (6905m)

Beautifully shaped mountain located in Gangotri group of Gahrwal Himal, west of Shivling-Meru group. Very difficult from all sides.

1979

First ascent

John Tackery, Pete Thexton & Roy Kligfield via West Pillar.

North Face "Australian Route"

Winner of Piolet d'Or 1998
VII 5.9 WI5 . 1500m

1998

First ascent

Andrew Lindblade & Anthold Whimp

NE face

ED-/VI AI5 V+,A1 . 800m for the face, 400-500m for approach couloir

West Pillar

1979

First ascent

John Tackery, Pete Thexton & Roy Kligfield

Shivling (6543m)

Beuatifully shaped peak located in Gahrwahl Himal in India.

1974

First ascent

Hukam Singh, Ang Tharhay, Pemba Tharkay, Laxman Singh & Pasang Sherpa

West Ridge

D, SCO III/IV

Nanda Devi (7816m)

summits:
- East Summit (7434m)
- Main summit (7816m)

1936

First ascent

Tilman & Odell via South Ridge.

Roskelley John: Nanda Devi: The Tragic Expedition.. Mountaineers Books, 2000. Isbn: 0898867398.
Shipton Eric, Tilman H.W. & Houston Charles: Nanda Devi: Exploration and Ascent. Mountaineers Books, 2000. Isbn: 898867215.

Nanda Devi: Mountain page at SummitPost.

South Ridge

1936

First ascent

Tilman & Odell via South Ridge.

South Ridge: Route page at SummitPost.

NW face

1976

First ascent

James States & John Roskelley.

NW Face: Route page at SummitPost.

Tibet

Tibet has vast number of high mountain ranges:

Himalayan Main Crest
Transhimalaya
Gangdise Shan
Nyangchen Tangla Shan
Tanggula

Himalayan main crest on the south border against Neopal is home to highest peaks. Three 8000m giants are accessible from Tibet: Mount Everest, Cho Ouy and Shisha Pangma. Most common way of accessing these climbs is to fly to Kathmandu. From there car via Nyalam to Shisha Pangma or Cho Ouy. For Everest flight to Lhasa (3660m) and land transportation from there. Southern side of Shisha Pangma is also accessible from Langtang valley (nepal).

Transhimalaya is located in southern Tibet, between main Himalayan Crest in the south and Kunlun Shan in the north.

In the western part of southern Tibet lies Gangdise Shan (or Kailas Range). By far the best known mountain of the range is Mount Kailash (or Gang Rimpoche, 6714m/6656m), the sacred mountain.

In eastern Tibet, east of Gangise, north from the city of Lhasa, lies Nyangchen Tangla Shan. North of Nyangchen Tangla Shan and east of Kunlun Shan lies Tanggula. The highest peak of the range is Nyenchen Tanglha Feng (7147m). Also Sepu Kangri (6950m) in the eastern part of the range, is among the best-known among the climbers.

map. At Footprint Adventures.
Tibet tourism map

Gangdise Mountain Range: List of most important peaks at Alpex High Alpine Expeditions.
Tanggula Mountain Range: List of most important peaks at Alpex High Alpine Expeditions.

Cho Ouy (8201m)

Cho Ouy is located in Mahalangur Himal, 32 km NW of Mount Everest on the border between China and Nepal.

1952	Attemp	First expedition took place in 1952 and it was led by Eric Shipton and included Edmund Hillary. They discovered a promising route from the NW over the Nangpa La.
1954	First ascent	Herbert Tichy, Sepp Jöchler and Pasang Dawa Lama in 1954 via NW Flank. The ascent is recounted on Tichy's book 'Cho Ouy: By Favour of the Gods'. This first ascent route is regarded as one of the easiest route to a 8000 meter peak.
1984	First winter ascent	Polish team led by Andrej Zawada and including Jerzy Kukuczka
1988	Ascent	The route was climbed in 22 hours from 5701m by Marc Batard and Sundare Sherpa.
1988	Ascent	Spaniard Fernando Garrido soloed the route.

Tichy Berbert: Cho Ouy: By Favour of the Gods. Isbn: 0208091867.

Cho Oyu 1998 - routes and ascent history: from Trekkari.
Cho Ouy: Mountain page at Peakware.
Cho Oyu: Mountain page at SummitPost.

NW Flank

Regarded as one of the easiest route to a 8000 meter peak. Approach via Zhang Mu, Nyalam and Tingri or from Lhasa via Tingri to Driver's camp (4900m). Base camp at 5650m. Firn spur descending WNW from the summit. The route follows the pillar descending from the top of serac barrier (6750m) towards Peak 6446 (Westbollwerk). At approximately 7600m low step (4-10m) cuts the whole spur. Along the West Buttress to the summit.
V PD+ (RUS 5A), UIAA II-III on rock (Yellow Band at 7500m), 50-55° . 3550m, customarily 3 high camps (6400m, 7050m & 7400m)

Joseph M. Coughlin's Cho Ouy page
Cho Oyu '97: Spring 1997 by Hartmut Bielefeldt.
Cho Ouy '99: Spring 1999 by Hartmut Bielefeldt.

Shisha Pangma (Gosainthan) (8012m)

Shishma Pangma lies in Tibet, 16 km from Nepalese border.

1963	First ascent	First ascent was made by a 195-member Chinese expedition, which put 10 climbers on top in 1963 via North Ridge.
1982	Ascent	In 1982 Britons Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter Jones made a new route in SW Face in alpine style, which was a major breakthrough for alpine style climbing on high peaks in the Himalayas. Scott's book describes the ascent.

Aberlein Manfred: Shisma Pangma - eine deutsche Tibetexpedition bezwingt den letzten Achttausender. Gustav Lübbe Verlag, 1980. Isbn: 3785702590.
Scott Doug: The Shishapangma Expedition. Isbn: 987-0898860986.

Shisha Pangma: Mountain page at Peakware.
Shisha Pangma: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Nortwest Face and North Ridge

One of the most popular routes of any on a 8000 meter peaks. Approach via Dhulikhel, Zhangmin and Laulung Leh Pass to Jeep Base Camp at 5000. From there with yaks to actual base camp on Shisha Pangma glacier (5635m).
VII PD (RUS 6A), 45° . 3400m, camps usually at 6350, 6950 and 7350m

1963

First ascent

First ascent was made by a 195-member Chinese expedition, which put 10 climbers on top in 1963 via North Ridge.

Sepu Kangri (6950m)

Nyachen Talglha, some 380km northeast of Lhasa.

2002

First ascent

Party led by Mark Newcomb

Nepal

Nepal is a small independent kingdom, located on the southern slopes of the Central Himalaya. Nepal has an unparalleled concentration of the world's highest mountains, including eight of the world's fourteen 8000 meter peaks. A ninth such peak, Shisha Pangma, is just over the border into Tibet.

There are several subranges of Himalaya (Himal) in Nepal. Western part is far less visited, Dhaulagiri is the only 8000m peak in the area. Cental and Eastern parts are well-known to climbers, especially Annapurna area in the Western part of Central Nepal (not far from Dhaulagiri) and Khumbu in eastern part of Nepal are popular among trekkers and climbers. Manang, Gurkha, Ganesh, Langtang and Rolwaling Himals lie between Annapurna and Khumbu. Easternmost part of Nepal includes Makalu and Kandchendjunga groups.

The weather is cool in the mountains year round, with winters being especially severe, and monsoon season creating impossible traveling conditions as the heavy rains bring torrents and mudslides. The best time for climbing or trekking in Nepal is during either the pre-monsoon (April through early June) or post-monsoon (late September through November) seasons.

Climbing in Nepal as a whole is encouraged but tightly regulated. Access is only allowed on government-approved peaks. There are different categories of peaks, the difference in the amount of bureocracy (and cost) varies dramatically between these.

Kathmandu (1300m) is the starting point to virtually all climbing activity in Nepal. From there areas lying in Central Nepal (mainly Ganesh and Langtang) can be accessed by car in a day, usually via Chunche. Climbs in Western Nepal are usually accessed from Pohhara (accessible from Kathmandu by bus or plane). Eastern areas are most conveniently reached by taking a plane from Kathmandu to Lukla.

Expedition Peaks Climbing expedition peaks requires fair bit of bureocracy. Some of the peaks have such lengthy waiting lists that a trip must be planned years in advance. Both the amount of necessary bureocracy and the price of climbing permit varies dramatically between peaks. Mount Everest is by far the most expensive. Trekking Peaks In the other end of the price range are so called "trekking peaks". There are currently two groups of trekking peaks; the original 18 trekking peaks are group B peaks while "new" trekking peaks form group A (slightly more expensive). Trekking peaks are typically between 5500 and 6500 high.

The term "trekking peak" might lead you to expect that trekking is all that is needed to summit them. Big mistake, the word "trekking" does not have anything to do with technical difficulty of these mountains. While some of them are technically quite easy (such as the standard route of Mera Peak), some on the other are extremely difficult (Kusum Kanguru often regarded as the most difficult with the easiest route graded alpine D or TD). Some of the "newer" group A peaks are practically unclimbed, however there are some very difficult mountains among those.

Baggaley David: Nepal Mountaineering Guide for Mount Everest and 25 other Peaks.. Trailblazer Publications, 2004. Isbn: 1873756747.
Bezruchka Stephen: Trekking in Nepal: A Traveler's Guide, 7th edition. Isbn: 978-0-89886-535-6.
O'Connor Bill: Trekking Peaks of Nepal. Mountaineers Books, 1999. Isbn: 0898866766.
Razzetti Steve: Trekking and Climbing in Nepal. Stackbole Cooks, 2000. Isbn: 0811729478.

map. At Footprint Adventures.

Nepal Mountaineering Association: Official site. Information about climbing in Nepal.
Trekking peaks of Nepal: at Project Himalaya.
Trekking peaks of Nepal: Very good information about the trekking peaks of Nepal. at Trekkari.
Trekking peaks of Nepal: Information about the Trekking peaks of Nepal. at TrekNepal.
Trekking peaks of Nepal: Very good information about the classic trekking peaks with route maps. at Getaway! Himalayan Eco-Trekking.

Western Nepal

map of Western Nepal

Dhaulagiri (8172m)

Dhaulagiri is located in Dhaulagiri Himal in Western Nepal.

1960

First ascent

First ascent finally succeeded after six unsuccessful attemps in 1960. The Swiss expedition did not use supplemental oxygen and put Ernst Forrer, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert and Sherpas Nima Dorje and Nawang Dorje on the summit.

Greek Dhaulagiri Expedition Spring 1999
Dhaulagiri: Mountain page at Peakware.
Andrew Lock's Expedition
Dhaulagiri: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Northeast Ridge via NE Col

Long approach from Tukuche over Dhanpuss Pass and French Col. Base camp at 4600m. Joins NE Ridge at ~7950m.
VII AD . 3550m

Northeast Ridge-Regular Route: Route page at SummitPost.

East Face Central Route

VI AI3 M4

1980

First ascent

René Ghillini, Wocjiech Kurtyka, Alex McIntyre & Ludowik Wilczycvzynski

Annapurna area

Annapurn region is the most popular trekking and climbing area in Nepal, even more popular than Khumbu region. Most common access to the area is from Kathmandu via Pokhara (827m), located about 200km west of Kathmandu. Pokhara can be reached from Kathmandu either by plane or by bus (1 day).

Because of huge number of trekkers, there are several lodges and tea houses. Especially Annapurna Sanctuary with stupendous South Face of Annapurna and piqturesque Macchapucchare and Annapurna circuit treks are very popular. Also peaks located in nearby Ganesh (Damador Himal) can conveniently be combined with very popular Annapurna circuit trek.

April-May is the best timeframe for pre-monsoon climbing season. Post monsoon season running from October to November is considered to be better though.

Classic expedition peaks of the area are Annapurna and Macchapucchare. Sanctuary is reached from Pokhara in 5 days trek (35km) following more or less Medi Khola river and valley leads to Annapurna Sanctuary. Main peaks forming the horseshoe are Annapurna South (7219m), Annapurna I (8091m), Annapurna III and Macchapucchare (6993m). Most climbs start either from Macchapucchare base camp (3720m, 4 days from Pokhara) or Annapurna Base camp (4095m, 5 days from Pokhara).

Area also has several trekking peaks. Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak, 5663m), Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak, 6501m) and Hiunchuli (6441m) are located in Annapurna Sanctuary. Mardi Himal (5587m) is located to the south of Macchapucchare (not climbed from Annapurna Sanctuary). Other popular peaks are located in Damador Himal along Annapurna circuit trek, to the north of Annapurna Himal and Marsyandi river. Here lie trekking peaks Chulu West, Centreal, East and Far East and Pisang Peak.

Reynolds Kev: Annapurna A Trekkers Guide.
Thomas Bryn: Trekking in the Annapurna Region (Nepal Trekking Guide).

Guide to Treking peaks in the Annapurna Sanctuary: Very good route descriptions. At Armchair Mountaineer.

Annapurna Himal

Annapurna Sanctuary can be used to access the main expedition peaks of Annapurna area, Annapurna I (south face) and Macchapucchare. There are also several trekking peaks that are accessible from Annapurna Horseshoe. Of the trekking peaks Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak, 5663m) is the easiest (PD, 50 along the NW Ridge, AD along SE Ridge, both 2 days from base camp at 4200m). Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak, 6501m) and Hiunchuli (6441m) rank among the most difficult trekking peaks. Mardi Himal (5587m) is located to the south of Macchapucchare (not climbed from Annapurna Sanctuary).

Machhapuchare (7000m)

Located in Annapurna Himal of Nepal.

Machhapuchare: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) (6501m)

Trekking peak located in Annapurna Himal in Annapurna Sanctuary.

North-East Face

Starts from the base camp of Machhapuchhare. Climbs on the west side of Annapurna glacier to the first high camp at the end of Tharpu Chuli glacier. From there easy terrain to to the north side of SE Ridge (camp 2 at 4900m). Third camp at the foot of NE Face (5500-5600m). Snow couloir to the foot of the 120m face. The lower part of the face is turned on the left and upper part is climbed through the face. Along the ridge to the summit serac.
AD+/D-

1957-06-13

First ascent

Wilfred Noyce & David Cox

Perun (Southeast Face)

ED2, VI+/VI max 90° avg. 65°.

1995-06-10

First ascent

Bojan Pockar, Ziga Petric, Ramesh Dolaras Chetri & Pasangnuri Sherpa

South Ridge

Approach from the Macchapucchare base camp cross the South Annapurna Glacier and moraines to head up the valley to the North (towards the West Annapurna Glacier) until a rocky step. Scramble or abseil down and up the valley to grassy meadows (base camp 4200m). Northwards along the West Annapurna Glacier and its moraine (another possible base camp location) and to the west to a grassy shelf beside the glacier on the South East flank of Singu Chuli (4900m, high camp/ABC). Up the glacier beneath the East Face to the South Ridge, culminating in climbing up a snow ramp which takes you above a serac band just below the ridge (around 6000m, suitable bivvy site). Along the ridge to the summit.
IV D/TD . 2300m

West Face

From the Annapurna Base Camp follow the South Annapurna Glacier until the lowest point of the face. Climb up the moraine towards an obvious spur. Follow the spur up pinnacles and steep ice until you reach the summit plateau, then follow a tricky (usually corniced) ridge to the summit.
ED-

1982-09

First ascent

Alex McIntyre, Rene Ghilini & John Porter

Annapurna (Annapurna I) (8051m)

Annapurna is located in Annapurna Himal in central Nepal.
summits:
- East Summit (8026m)
- Middle Summit (8051m)

1950	First ascent	Annapurna was the first 8000 meter peak to be climbed. The first ascent was made in 1950 by a French team including Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat. Herzog wrote a book about the ascent.
1970	Ascent	South Face was first climbed in 1970 by a party led by Briton Chris Bonington. Don Whillans and Dougal Haston reached the summit. Bonnington's book recounts the climb.

Bonington Chris: Annapurna South Face. Isbn: 978-1560253150.
Herzog Maurize: Annapurna. Isbn: 978-1558215498.

Annapurna I: Mountain page at Peakware.
Annapurna I: Mountain page at SummitPost.
Annapurna South Face

South face

Rises 4000m above Annapurna Sanctuary valley floor (BC at 4234m).

South face

Technically very difficult
VII AI4 M5(?) (or 5.9 A2 80) . 2450m

1970

Ascent

South Face was first climbed in 1970 by a party led by Briton Chris Bonington. Don Whillans and Dougal Haston reached the summit. Bonnington's book recounts the climb.

East Ridge

From the Annapurna south base camp (4200m) via Col between Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak, 6501m) and Tarke Kang (7202m) to Tarke Kang and along the 7,5km ridge over Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir, 7485m) to Annapurna. Nominated for Piolet d'Or.

2002

First ascent

Jean-Christophe Lafaille & Alberto Iñurrategi

North face

North face is both lower and technically less difficult than the south face. However, due to frequent avalanches, it is also more dangerous. "Dutch Spur" ("Dutch Rib") variant objectively slightly less dangerous than the original French route.
Access to Annapurna north base camp (4250m) is from Annapurna Circuit trek. Drive from Pokhara to Goleshar. From there 6 day trek via Tatopani (1190m).

From West via North Face (French Route)

Propably the easiest route. However, the route is avalanche prone and extremely dangerous. BC at 4250.

1950

First ascent

Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray & Gaston Rebuffat

Damodor Himal

The area also has few trekking peaks: Chulu Central (6558m, group A), Chulu West (6419m), Chulu East (6200m, group B), Chulu Far East (6060m, group B), Pisang Peak (6091m) and Larkya Peak (6010m, group A). Chulus and Pisang peak are located in Manang Himal that is part of the larger Damodor Himal.

Chulu West (6630m)

normal route round Gusang Peak from north

AD . 3 days

Chulu Central (6558m)

NW Face

Chulu East (6220m)

normal route

Base camp at 5334m
PD+

Pisang Peak (6091m)

SW Face

Base camp at 4380m, C1 at 5100m
PD- . 2 days

Chulu Far East (6060m)

normal route

Base camp at 5334m
PD-, 45

Gurkha (Manang)

Located to the east of Annapurna. The giant of the area is Manaslu (8163m). Technically easy Himlung Himal is another famous peak in the area.

Manaslu (Manangula) (8163m)

Manaslu lies in Mansiri (or Managula, Gurkha) Himal.

1956-05-09	First ascent	T. Imanishi and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu from NE Flank
1981	First ascent	West Face was judged 'Impossible without wings' by H.W. Tilman, until a French team including Pierre Beghin climbed it in 1981.

Kammerlander Hans: Bergsüchtig. Piper Verlag, 1999. Isbn: 978-3492041300.

Manaslu: Mountain page at Peakware.
Manaslu: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Northeast Flank (Japanese Route)

via Naike Col and North Col

Ganesh

Located between Gurkha Himal in the West and Langtang in the east, separated from the latter by Trisuli river. Trisuli river valley is used to access eastern reaches of Ganesh.

While Ganesh (7406m), Ganesh V (6950m), Pabil (7101m) and Lapsang Karbo (7150m) are far higher, probably the most popular climbing destination of the area is trekking peak Paldor (5928m, group B), located in SE end of Ganesh.

Eastern reaches of Ganesh are most readily accessed same way as nearby Langtang valley, by taking a car via Dhunche to Syabru village (2200m, ~8h from Kathmandu, 6h hike from Dhunche). From there Paldor BC can be reached in 2-3 days trek.

Pre-monsoon climbing season March-May and post-monsoon climbing season October-November.

Paldor (5928m)

Group B trekking peak.

Access to base camp in upper Maikung Khola (4200m) from Syabru village in 2-3 days trek. If different route is preferred for exit, it is possible to trek directly to Trisuli Bazaar (4-5 days).

NE Ridge (Tilman ridge)

Camp 1 due east of Fang (5200mm).
III PD+ . 1730m, 5-7h

SE Ridge

AD+, 55

1974

First ascent

Cleare & Howell

SW Buttress

D, 45-50 . 3h

1986

First ascent

Allen

West Ridge

D+, 55 (200m) . 3h

Langtang & Jugal

Langtang valley is located to the east of Ganesh and to the west of Rolwaling and Khumbu, directly to the north (30km) of Kathmandu. On the north side of Langtang valley rises Langtang Himal with Langtang II (6571m), Langtang Lirung (7205m, the highest peak accessible directly from Langtang valley), Yubra Himal (6035m) Tsanbu Ri (6760m), Yensa Tenji (6543m), Tsergo (5732m) and Tsergo Ri (4984m). In the west, at the end of Langtang valley, and on the southern side on valley rises Jugal Himal with Morimoto Peak (6750m), Bhemlang Karpu (5691m), Langshisa Ri (6151m), Gangchampo (Gang Chennpo, 6387m) and Naya Kanga (Gang-La Chuli, 5846m).

Jugal Himal also has plenty of high peaks that are not directly accessible from Langtang valley. They include Phola Gangchen (7661m), Porang Ri (7284m), Pungpa Ri (7443m), Dorhje Lakhpa (6966m) and Shisma Pangma (8048m). Jugal Himas reaches to the Tibetan side, also Shishma Pangma is located in Tibet.

There are few alternative means to access Langtang valley from Kathmandu. Most convenient access is to take a car from Kathmandu via Trisuli river valley to Dhunche and further to Syabru village (2200m, ~8h from Kathmandu, 6h hike from Dhunche). From there 2 days trek along Langtang valley via Lama Hotel (2480m, 7h) to Langtang village (3480m, 6h) and further to Gyangjin Gompa with famous cheese factory and monastery (3870m, half a day from Langtang village). Another option is to trek through Helambu, then cross Ganja La Pass (5200m) close to Naya Kanga to access Langtang valley. There are several optional routes from Kathmandu through Helambu to Ganja La, usually taking between 5 and 7 days.

Most climbs are accessed from Kyangjin Gompa (~3870m). Upper reaches of of Langtang valley and Jugal Himal is accessed from Langhisa Kharka (4164m, half a day from Gyangjin Gompa) further up in the valley. From there access to climbs on Gangchempo and Langshisa Ri is provided b Tilman's Pass (5320m), located to the south of Langtang glacier between Gangchempo and Urkgyebnmang.

Climbing in Langtang area requires no special permits, but several park fees are required in addition to the peak fees. Most climbing takes place on trekking peaks of the area, especially Naya Kanga (5846m, group B) and Yala Peak (5732m, group A, formerly regularly climbed without permit). Two new group A trekking peaks Langshisa Ri (6427m, difficult involving steep ice (60)) and Yubra Himal (6035m) are found in the area. Tsergo Ri (5033m) is popular acclimatization climb reached from Kyangjin Gompa (3900m, monastery, popular among the trekkers).

Langtang Lirung, the highest peak of the area, is expedition peak and very difficult at that. The other expedition peaks to see some climbing activity is picruresque Gangchempo, that has beautiful ice face, somewhat reminiscent of Andean flutes, hence the peak is also known as "Fluted Peak".

McGuinness Jamie: Trekking in Langtang - Helambu & Gosainkund. Aventura/Bokklubben Villmark.

Langtang valley
Langtang valley
Langtang valley
Yala Peak, Kyangjin Gomapa, Naya Kanga
Langtang area
Schematic map of Naya Kanga
Deutsche Alpenverein: (Langtang Himal East).
Deutsche Alpenverein: (Langtang Himal West).
Finnmap: 2885 11 (Lantan Lirun), 1:50 000.
Finnmap: 2885 14 (Dchunche), 1:50 000.
Finnmap: 2885 15 (Lantan), 1:50 000.
Nelles-Schneider maps: sheet 8 (Helambu-Langtang), 1:100 000.

Langtang Trek: Dhunche -> Kyangjin: Photo collection of Langtang trek.
Nepal 2003.: Photo travelogue by Gernot Koller and Barbara Springinsfeld.
Photo collection from Langtang valley: Fine photos of some of the more important peaks.

Langtang Lirung (7234m)

Langtang Lirung: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Lanshisa Ri (Langsisa Ri) (6427m)

Group A trekking peak. According to Himalayan Index, the following routes have been climbed: South Ridge, South face (sw side), SW Ridge and W-NW face.

SE Ridge

Access from Langtang village via Kyangjin Gompa and Langhisa Kharka (4164m). From there through glaciated Tilman's Pass below Gangchempo. Grade 1 scrambling up moraine to camp 1 at 5400m. Further along easy rocks to glacier ( C2 at 5750m). 400m (8-9 pitches) of ice 55/60 to gain ridge at ~6100m. From there along the ridge to summit.
3 days.

Gangchampo (Gang Chennpo) (6387m)

Jugal Himal at the end of Langtang valley.

SW Ridge and South face

South Face

Beautiful face of ice and firn. From Langhisa Kharka (4164m) at the head of Langtang valley. Camp 1 at 4800, Camp 2 (5500m), Camp 3 at 5800 on the glacier bowl below south face. Approach involves crevassed glaciers and serac danger.
60 . ca. 500m

Langtang wanderers 1999 - Deep undercover in a Himalayan playground: By Dave Benton. (Published in Gripped magazine December 2000)

West Ridge

Yubra Himal (6035m)

Group A trekking peak, located on the north side of Langtang valley, to the east of Langtang Lirung. Very little information about routes and climbing history is available.

Naya Kanga (Gangula Chuli) (5846m)

Located to the south of Langtang village, directly opposite Langtang Lirung.

Naya Kanga: Mountain page at SummitPost.

East side

Naya Kanga is most commonly climbed form the east.
From Kyangjin Gompa accross Langtang Khola and Branchen Kharka (4100m, some choose to camp here). Most parties place base camp higher up, ca. an hour trek before Ganja La Pass at ~5000m. It is also possible to camp immediately below Ganja la Pass (~5100m).

photo with route line
Photo of east face

East face and North ridge

Ice and snow. Accross flat glacier shelf below East face (crevasses), then gain North ridge by following narrow couloir to the right of rock buttress (can be climbed directly at about uiaa III). It is also possible to climb directly the prominent central couloir of East face to join normal north ridge route to the last part to the summit.
III PD+/AD- . Depends how the peak is climbed. Some people place base camp lower in the valley (4100 or ~4400m). High camp is placed at about 5000m below Ganja La (5122m, reachable from Kyangjin Gompa in a day. 1 day round trip from high camp, 900m.

North face

Possibly the easiest access is to follow the normal route and place intermediate camp on the north ridge above the shoulder (~5400m). Descent from there towards north along, turning huge serac on the right, then follow the ridge towards glacial shelf below the north face (about Sco II).

Topo of Naya Kanga North face
Naya Kanga: Expedition report by Utrecht Students' Alpine Club (USAC)
Photo of north face

North face "Dutch route"

Almost pure ice ascent with short section of mixed climbing on the lower part of the face. Summit ridge may be corniced.
D-/D, Sco II/III (60, uiaa II) . 700m, 7h

1999

First ascent

Memmbers of Utrecht Students' Alpine Club (USAC)?

West ridge "Scottish route"

Mixed climb along the west ridge.
D-/D, Sco III (60, uiaa III) . 700m, 10h

1989

First ascent

Foster, McEwan, McGlashean & O'Reilly

South side

From the north across Ganja La Pass (5122m). From the south through Helambu (several possible treks from Kathmandu, usually 5-7 days.

East Ridge

Yala Peak (5732m)

Group A trekking peak. Previously regularly climbed without permit. Easy snow peak. Two days from Kyangjin Gompa. Camp at Yala Kharka (4800m), located just NE of Tsergo Ri. F (UIAA I). 1232m.

Yala Peak: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Tsergo Ri (5033m)

Located to the north of Langtang valley and Kyangjin Gompa (3730m).

Tsergi Ri: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Rolwaling

Located SW of Khumbu region, to the north of Rolwaling valley. Highest peak of the group are Melungtse (7181m) and Gauri Sankar (7145m). Rolwaling also has trekking peaks, Kwangde, Parchamo, Chekigo and Ramdung.

Challenging Kwangde (6187m, group B) is located close to Nache Bazaar. Its north face (Hungo face) is very difficult though. Lumding valley in the easternmost part of Rolwaling is accessible from Dud Kosh valley (Lukla, 2800m) via Moro La (alternatively from Ringmo via Traksindu La). It is seldom visited by trekkers and provides access to Katy Olng (6511m), Khatang (6782m), Numbur (6957m) and south side of Kwangde (6011m, group B).

Parchamo (6187m, group A, NW Ridge PD+) is located further to the west. Chekigo (6257, group A) is located still further to the west in Gaurisankar range, close to Chinese border. It's NW face is reasonably difficult ice/snow climb at at III D (200m of 45-55). Ramdung locates somewhat south of Chekigo is easier (NE Face PD, 2 high camps).

East Patricia, Hoivik Susan, Schneiderman sara & Turin Mark: The Gauri Shankar trekking area. 2003. Isbn: 99933-10-20-4.

Namche Bazaar & Lumding valley

Kwangde (Kongde Ri) (6187m)

Located in the easternmost part of Lumding/Rolwaling Himal, to the SW Namche Bazar (3440m).
summits:
- Kwangde Lho (6187m)
- Kwangde Shar (6093m)
- Kwangde Nup (6035m)
- Kwangde Nupla (5885m)

1975-10-17

First ascent

Lhakpa Tenzing, Sonam Gyalzen, Shambhu Tamang & Sonam Hisi via the South Ridge

Hungo face

From Namche Bazaar

Kwangde Lho, Lowe-Breashears

VII/WI6 X . 1400m

1982-11

First ascent

Jeff Lowe & David Breashears

South face

Lumding valley is the starting point from southern ascents. It is accessible from Lukla via Moro La (alternatively from Ringmo via Traksindu La).

Kwangde Lho, South Ridge

From Lmding valley. base camp before Lumding la (4700m), 2 high camps (first at 5100m at Lumding Tscho Teng, the second at the upper part of the Lumding glacier).
AD+/D

1975-10-17

First ascent

Lhakpa Tenzing, Sonam Gyalzen, Shambhu Tamang & Sonam Hisi

Khumbu

Very popular area in the eastern Nepal. Located to the northeast of Rolwaling, separated from it by Dudh Kosi valley. Beside 8000-meter giants (Everest, Lhotse) and picturesque Ama Dablam, the area has several trekking peaks:

The areas are also popular among the trekkers so there are several lodges and tea houses. Khumbu is most commonly accessed from Kathmandu via Lukla (2800m, plane from Kathmandu). From there hike to Namche Bazar (3440m, 9h).

In Khumbu Himalayan main ridge includes Khumbutse and Lho La pass (6026m). From there rises Everest West Ridge via West Shoulder to Mount Everest Main summit (8850m). From there the ridge continues south via Everest South Summit to South col (7906m) between Everest and Lhotse and further to The Lhotse Main summit. Here the ridge turns to east and continues over Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar to Lhotse -Shartse Col (7577m) and further to Shartse (7591m), Shar La (6174m) and Pethangtse (6739m). There are three prominent side ridges.

Northern branch branches at Everest main summits and runs towards NE ro Raphu La. There is prominent side ridge that branches at Everest NE Shoulder (8370m) and runs towards north to Chang La (7042m) and further to Changtse (7543m).

One ridge runs west from Lhotse Main summit separating Khumbu (north) and Imja (south) valleys. Nuptsa is located on the ridge.

Third and longest of the ridges runs to the south from Shartse separating drainage areas of Dudh Kosi (west) and Arun (east) rivers).

schematic map of Everest area

Northern Khumbu

Gokyo valley

Gokyo valley runs in NW direction of Tengboche, towards Cho Ouy. Main village of the valley if Gokyo (4550). At the end of the valley lies Ngozumpa glacier that gives access to southern slopes of Cho Oyou. Probably the most climbed peaks in the valley are Gokyo Ri (5438m) above third Gokyo lake and Nameless Towers between 4th and 5th Gokyo lakes. Highest Tower (5800m) is technically challenging mixed climb (TD) while the lowest (5500m) is easy (F, 5-6h).

Group A trekking peaks Phari Lapcha, Machermo and Kyazo Ri are all located to the west of Gokyo valley. Kyajo Ri is by far the most difficult of these. It's SW face is mixed at around 70 degrees steepness.

Also Kangschung Peak (6063m) is accessible from Gokyo valley.

Khumbu valley

Khumbu valley is the northern side valley if Imja valley that begins at 4135m at the junction with Imja valley (Pherice). Northern border is Himalayan main ridge with Peak 6792, Pumori (7138m), Lingtren (6713m), Khumbutse (6639m), Lho la (5981m), Everest (8850m), South Col (7906m) and Lhotse (8516m). Western border is the ridge that runs from main ride with Chumbu (6822m), Changri (5962m), Jobo Lhapson (6423m) and Taboche (6495m). Eastern border is 22km ridge branching off at Lhotse main peak and running to the west with Nuptse (7861m). The ridge turns sharply to the south after P. 6480 and includes Oxygen Peak, Kongma Tse (5798m) and Pokalde (5778m).

Length of the valley from Pherice to the end at Western cwm below South Col is 22 km. Uppermost part of the valley is made by Khumbu glacier. On the edge of Khumbuy ice fall lies Everest base camp (5400m). The valley is very popular both among the climbers and trekkers. Obvious attraction of the valley is Mount Everest. Trek to Everest base camp is very popular. Other climbing destinations that are reached from the valley include Ama Dablam (6812m), Pokalde (5794m, group B), Kongma Tse (group A) and Oxygen Peak on the east side on valley. On the other side, on a ridge between Khumbu valley in NE and Gokyo valley in SW lie Pumori (7165m) and further south, close to Pherice lies Cholatse (6440m, group A).

Further up close to Lobuche village trekking peaks Nirekhu (6159m, group A), Lobuche East (group B) and Lobuche West (group A) are located. Also popular Kala Pattar (5554m) is located here.

Access is from Lukla (2800m) via Namche Bazar (3440m) and lower Imja valley (northeast of Namche) to Tengboche (3860m, 5,5h), Pangboche (3985m, further 3h) and further to Pherice (4240). From there higher up to Dingboche (4413, 5h from Pangboche) and to Lobuche (4880m, 6h).

Rongphu valley (Rongbuk valley)

Located in China, to the NW of Everest. The valley has two main branches: Rongphu Nup glacier valley in west and Ronphu Shar glacuer valley in the East. Changtse (75443m) rises between the branches. Ronphu Nup between between Khumbutse and Everest West Ridge in the south and west and north and NW ridges of Everest and Chantse in the east and north is used for the normal ascent of Everest from the north.

Kangshung valley

Kangshung valley is located in China to the East of Everest. Is is defined by the Everest North (NE) Ridge in the north and thew Himalayan Main Ridge with Lhotse and Shartse in the south. Valley is used to access stupendous Kangshung face of Everest. Access via Pethang and Ringmo villages.

Barun valley

Barun valley is located to the southeast of Everest, bordered in north and northeast by the Himalayan Main Ridge with Shartse, Pethangtse (6739m), Chago (6893m), Kangshungtse (7678m) and Makalu (8485m). Western border is the ridge running south from Shartse with Cho Polu (6700m), Num Ri (6635m), Baruntse (7152m), Peak 6535 and Khandro Tseheringma (6565m).

Southern Khumbu

lower Dudh Kosh valley

Dudh Kosh valley with Lukla 2800m) and Namche Bazar (3440m) is the main valley of Khumbu region and is used to access all other parts of Khumbu. Some climbs on Charpati Himal, lying between Dud Kosh valley in the west and Hinku valley in the east can be started directly from Dud Kosh. Main peaks of Charpati Himal are Thamserku (6623m), Kantega (6767m) and Kusum Kanguru (6367m). Kusum Kanguru is widely regarded as the most difficult of original trekking peaks.

Imja valley (Chukung valley)

Imja valley (aka Chukung valley) is located NE of Namche Bazar (3440m). Upper part of Imja valley is separated from Khumbu valley in the east by ridge branching off at Lhotse main peak and running to the west with Nuptse (7861m). The ridge turns sharply to the south after P. 6480 and includes Oxygen Peak, Kogma Tse (5798m) and Pokalde (5778m).

Northern border is Himalayan Main Ridge with summits of Lhotse and Shartse (7591m). Stupendous South Face of Lhotse is one of the hardest faces in Himalayas. There are three subsidiary ridges coming down from Himalayan main ridge. Easternmost of those fall from Lhotse Shar and includes Imja Tse, the most popular trekking peak of the region. Chukung Ri is also located close to Imja Tse.

Eastern border is the long ridge running south from Shartse including Num Ri (6635m) and Baruntse (6985m).

South border is formed by Zininga (6230m), Pokhari Peak (6402m), Ombigaichen (Pumo Dablam, 6340m, group A) and Ama Dablam (6340m).South side of Ombigaichen is accessed from Namche Bazaar via Pangboche (4000m) and Ama Dablam SW ridge base camp. Base camp at 5200m. SW Ridge via Mingbo La (5815m, camp) is AD/D with 200m of 50. SW face is 800m snow/ice face (55). SE (Hunku) face is more complex with upper part ice (50).

From Namche to Tengboche (3860m, 5,5h), Pangboche (3985m, further 3h) and further to Pherice (4240). Khumbu Chukung valley lies to the east of Pherice and it provides access to north side ascents of Ama Dablam (6812m) and NW side of Baruntse. To the north of the valley the southern slopes of Khumbu Himal with Pokalde (5794m), Nuptse (7861m), Lhotse (8501m) and Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6173m).

Hinku Valley

Hinku valley is located between Charpati Himal (Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Kanguru) in west and Mera Peak and Peak 41 in the east. The access from Dud Kosh valley is over one of the high passes (4943m or 4590m) to the south of Kusum Kanguru.

Hongku valley

Hongku valley is located further to the east, on the eastern side of Mera Peak. It can be reached from Hinku valley via Mera la (5415m, immediately north of Mera peak. Ama Dablam (6812m, in NW) and Baruntse rise at the end of the valley.

Mount Everest (Chomolungma) (8850m)

Everest lies in Khumbu Himal, on the Himalayan main ridge.
Mount Everest - The Jolly Big Hill. Tallest mountain in the earth is also knowns as Chomolungma (Tibetan, meaning 'Mother Goddess of the District') and Sagarmatha (Nepalese). Mount Everest is the hisghest mountain in the world and one of the seven summits.
Mainly climbed from the the Nepalese side from Khumbu valley via south col and south ridge and from China side via north ridge. Several other routes exists but they are all more difficult.

	First ascent	First solo ascent by Reinhold Messner via North Col during the monsoon 1980. This ascent was particularly influencial in introducing lightweight alpine style tactics to the highest mountains.
1921	Attemp	Britons became intrigued with reaching the top in the 1890s. Major C.G. Bruce's 1922 expedition was the first of several British attemps on the North Col. Nepal was closed for the westerners at the time, so the early attemsp were made from the north side.
1924	Attemp	In 1924 George Leigh Mallory and Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine disappeared high up on the mountain. Their bodies were found in the spring of 1999, but the question remains open: Did they reach the summit? All things considered, bearing in mind that they still had the second step to climb, it seems highly unlikely that they summited.
1950	Attemp	In the 1950s the entry to Tibet became impractical due the Chinese takeover, so new route was searched in Nepalese southern side of the mountain.
1953	First ascent	Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay
1978	First ascent	First ascent without bottled oxygen in 1978 by Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) via South Col.
1980	First winter ascent	Poles Leszach Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki via SE Ridge
1988	First free ascent	Lydia Bradey (New Zealand)
1996	First ascent	Hans Kammerlander
1996-05-10	First ascent	During the 1996 season, 10 climbers died in a day during the storm. Jon Krakauer's book 'Into Thin Air' recounts the tragedy. Though definitely most well known, Krakauer's book is not the only one about the same epic. Beck Weathers (client in Rob Hall's team) recounts his view of the tragedy in 'Left for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest' as does Lene Gammelgard (client in Scott Fischer's expedition) in 'Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy'. Fischer's team guide Anatoli Boukreev shares his view in 'The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest'. Rescuer's point of view is given by David Breashers in 'High Exposure'. Swedish soloist Göran Kropp was also on the mountain at the same time (Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey).
2001-05-24	First ascent	Marco Siffredi via Norton Couloir (North Face 8848-6400m)

Mortals on Mount Olympus: A History of Climbing Everest
Mounteverest.net
Mnteverest.net
Everest links
Mount Everest: Mountain page at Peakware.
Everest: Mountain page at SummitPost.

South face

SW Face rises from West Cwm. Most prominent features of the face are huge central couloir running on the face and 500m high rock band.
By far the most commonly climbed route on this side, and on the whole mountain for that matter, is classic south col route.
Another famous route from this side is American route (Hornbein) that climbs to West Ridge above West Shoulder (7268m), then climbs the ridge up to around 7500m to traverse through NW Face and climbs Hornbein Couloir (50° IV).
Bonington route climbs the couloir, then turns rock band on the left, traversing right to the SSE ridge above it to join the ridge at south summit (8749m).
South Pillar (Polish Pillar) descends from South Summit giving climbing around IV, 45-55°).
Central Pillar dropping from P. 8296 on the West Ridge is even more difficult (Soviet Route, VI, 50-60°).
West Ridge drops 6,5 km from main summit to Lho la (5981m). It is accessible from both Rongphu and Khumbu valleys, access from the latter avalanche endangered and difficult at III-V).
Approach is from Nepal, at first flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, from there trek to Namche Bazaar and Tengboche to the base camp on the rand of Khumbu Icefall (5400m, very popular trekking destination). From there through the Khumbu icefall to Western Cwm.

South Col route

By far the most popular route. Approach is from Lhasa and Tengboche to the base camp on the rand of Khumbu Icefall (5400m, very popular trekking destination). The route climbs through the Khumbu icefall, Western Cwm and Lhotse face (50° fixed rope) up to the South Col (7906m, camp IV). From there there are several variations to join the south ridge (between 8150 and 8350), then continue along the ridge mainly on firn via South summit (8749m) and Hillary Step. VIII PD+ (50°), 3500m.
842m, 2km. One day roundtrip from South Col (ascent time 5-10h).

1953

First ascent

Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay

North face

2500m high NW flank rises from Rongphu glacier.
There are two very prominent couloirs: Great couloir (left hand couloir) and Hornbein couloir (right hand couloir). Both have been climbed (the former holds Australian route and Messner's solo route) and the latter has Japanese route (IV, 50°) and American route (Hornbein). There are also routes below north ridge to the left of Great couloir.
NNW Ridge is subsidiary ridge that drops from NE Shoulder (8403m) to Chang la (7042m). The ridge is 3 km long and rises 1480m to the shoulder. Chinese normal route follows NNW ridge.
North face rises from Rongphu Sar glacier and is bordered by the ridge dropping from NE Ridge to Chang La (north col) and the ridge from the summit to Raphu La. All routes join northern normal route at NE Shoulder (8403m).
North (or NE) ridge runs from the main summit to Ranphu La (6501m). 5,5km, 2347m.
Access is from Lhasa in Tibet (China) to base camp on East Rongbuk glacier at 5200m, only a short travel away from Rongbuk monastery.

1960

First ascent

In 1960 China launched a massive 214-climber expedition from the North Col. They succeeded to put first three men on top from the Tibetan side.

NNW Ridge from North Col (normal route from north side)

Classic route attempted several times in the 1920's. The route is longer and the exposes climbers to high altitude for longer than time than South Col route. Technical difficulties are faced during the summit day. Base camp on East Rongbuk glacier at 5200m, only a short travel away from Rongbuk monastery. From there with camps 1 (500m) and 2 (6000m) to Advanced base camp (6500m, 2 days from base camp). Next up to north col (Camp 4, 7050m, 2-3h from abc). More or less along the ridge with camps on 7990m and 8450m. From there to the summit via Yeallow Band, First Step, Second Step (30m of IV, fixed ladders), Third Step and summit pyramid.
5B

1960

First ascent

Chinese expedition in 1960

Kangschung face

5km wide and 3300m high east (Kangshung) face rising from Kangshung glacier at the end of Kharta valley. This and technical difficulty of the face make Kangschung face much quieter than the two other faces; there have been only few attemps and even fewer successful ones.
Prominent East Rib (Fantasy Ridge) drops from P. 7856 on the North (NE) Ridge on the right-hand side of the face. Central Rib is the most prominent feature on the left-hand side (very difficult climbing on the 1000m rock band on the lower part, V+, A3).
35 mile trek from Kharta is logistically challenging.

1983

First ascent

American team via American Buttress (using rope launchers!)

Baruntse (7229m)

Located in Hunku between Imja (Chukung) Valley on the Northwest, Hongu Valley on the South-West and Barun Valley on the East.

South Ridge (SE Ridge)

Approach either from East (Lower Barun Glacier) or from West (Hongu Khola). Base camp at 5800m and ABC near the West Col (6135m). Customarily two high camps on the foot of South East ridge (6420m) and at 6650m.
D+, 45-50°

1954-05-30

First ascent

Geoff Harrow & Colin Todd via the South Ridge

Pumori (7161m)

Pumori is one of the easiest 7000m peaks in Nepal.

Pumori: Mountain page at SummitPost.

South-East Ridge

Southeast buttress then traverse to East Ridge. From the base camp at 5300m. Usually Camp 1 (ABC) at 5700m (4h), Camp 2 at 6100m (480m) and Camp 3 at 6500-6700m. Most challenging part of the climb is 6m high 75° snow-ice slope at 6400m.

Ama Dablam (6856m)

Very beautiful symmetrical mountain in Khumbu region looking over the famous Tengboche monastery. In Sherpa language the name means "Mother's jewel box".

1961

Attemp

Sir Edmund Hillay

Ama Dablam: Mountain page at Peakware.
Ama Dablam: Mountain page at SummitPost.

SW face

Southwest Ridge

Very popular route, usually completely equipped with fixed rope from Camp I to the summit. Base camp at (4500m) and ABC at 5200m. Actual ridge is gained at 5800m between Ama Dablam and Kantega. Usually three high camps. Crux is a steep pitch at Yellow tower.
IV D+ (5.5, 45-55°, TD+ if there were no fixed ropes) . 4 days

Southwest Ridge route description: By Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam Team
1997 International Expedition: Technical Peak Attempt
The 1997 Winter Ama Dablam Expedition: Expedition led by Jim Williams via SW Ridge.

South Face

VI AI5 M5+

Southeast Face

VII WI5

NE face

VI, 90° . 1400m, 8 days

First ascent

Carlos Buhler & Michael Kennedy

NE face "Stane Belak Strauf Memorial Route" (Humar-Furlan)

Winner of Pioler d'Or
VI 5.7 AI5 A2+ . 1650m

First ascent

Tomaz Humar & Furlan

NW Ridge

More difficult than SW Ridge
VI, Sco 7 . 2000m

North ridge

VI 5.7 . 1600m

1979

First ascent

Louis Audoibet, Francis Chaud, Yva Estienne, Jean-Francois Magnificot, Raymond Renaud, Marc Salomez & Bruno Solomieux

East Ridge

VI, 80°

1983

First ascent

Andre Georges & Alain Hubert

Peak 41 ("Real Mera") (6654m)

Due to disparity in maps and trekking peak lists, this can/could be climbed with the permit of Mera Peak.

2002-10-16

First ascent

Matic Jošt, Urban Golob and Uroš Samec via West face

The Mera Mixup: It turned out, that thousands of mountaineers have climbed the wrong peak.
Real Mera Expedition: First known attemp to climb real Mera Peak.

West Face

Ice. First ascent took 2 days (bivouac at small col north of the summit (6500m). From there exposed ridge (50-65°)to the summit.
TD+, V,WI4+ (55-80°) . 1500m from the saddle

2002-10-16

First ascent

Matic Jošt, Urban Golob and Uroš Samec

Slovenian Peak 41 expedition: Site of the first ascent party.

Cholatse (6440m)

Located on the ridge between Khumbu and Gokyo valleys, just north of Taboche and just south of a 5420m pass used by Sherpas and trekers alike to go between the Gokyo and Khumbu valleys.

1982

First ascent

Vern Clevenger, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Bill O'Connor via SW Ridge

Kusum Kanguru (6369m)

Kusum Kanguru dominates the southern end of Charpati Himal separates the valley of the Dudh Koshi in the south from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka in the north.

1979

First ascent

Japanese team in autumn 1979 via South-East Face. Four other expedition had turned back unsuccesfully before.

North face

Several routes, all very difficult

Main Summit, "Kurosawa"

1000m, 2 days

1985

First ascent

Kurosawa in spring 1985

Main Summit "Ball-Curtis"

TD+ . 1500m, 4 days

1985

First ascent

John Ball & Tom Curtis in autumn 1985

South East Face

Ice. Access from Lukla in 5 days via Hinku valley to BC at Lungsamba Glacier (4360m).
45-70° . 1010m, 3 days

1979

First ascent

First ascent by Takeshi Kanazawa, Hideo Naoi, Hajime Vematsu, Mansanori Miyano & Tomooh Toyoda in autumn 1979

North Ridge

Approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar.
70° IV

1979

First ascent

Scott

Lobuche East (Lobuje East) (6119m)

Trekking peak in the Khumbu region. Access from Lobuche village.

South Ridge

Base camp close to lake at approximately 5100m. Via flank to South ridge (40-50°). High camp at the juction of ridges. From high camp along the snowy South Ridge to eastern summit (Lobuje Far East). PD. Most climbers stop here. Down to col and steeply to main summit. AD/D.
PD / AD/D

1984-04

First ascent

Nielson & Ang Gyalzen

East Face Couloir

From Lobuje village (4940m) to lake, from there to the foot of the face. Left side couloir to south ridge (at leats four long climbing sections, max Scottish 5). From the col along the ridge to the summit.
TD, Sco 5 . One day

1986

First ascent

Lowe & Kendal in spring 1986

Mera Peak (6476m)

Mera is located to the south of Everest and dominates the valleys of Hinku and Hongu.
summits:
- West (6255m)
- North (6476m)
- Central (6461m)
- South (6065m)

1953-05-20	First ascent	First ascent (Eastern Summit) by Jimmy Roberts & Sen Tenzing via North face
1975	First ascent	First ascent (North Summit) by Jolly, Baus & Honills

Mera Peak: Mountain page at Peakware.
Mera Peak: Mountain page at SummitPost.

North Face

From the Mera La pass (5415m) conneting the valley of Hongu to the Hinku Valley. Base camp is usually at Khare base camp at the start of glacier leading to the Mera La (5099m, six days trek from Lukla). One or two high camps are customary (5385m, below Mera La and at 5800m). Glacier may be crevassed.
PD, Scottish I

1953-05-20

First ascent

First ascent (Eastern Summit) by Jimmy Roberts & Sen Tenzing via North face

Wrath of Mera: Report of expedition to Mera.
Mera Peak 98: Report of expedition to Mera by S. Kraml. In German.

Imja Tse (Island Peak) (6183m)

Located in Imja valley on the south ridge of Lhotse Sar between Lhotse Sar and Lhotse glaciers.
summits:
- Main (6183m)
- SW summit (6098m)

Imja Tse: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Southeast flank/Southwest ridge

Very popular route. The usual site for base camp is at Pereshaya Gyab at 5087m, between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier (threatened by avalanches). From the glacier straight up to the prominent couloir between two ribs. Above the couloir gain the right rib to gain the hanging glacier and summit ice wall (100m of 50°, fixed rope).
PD/PD+ with ice IV/PD (45°) . 1000m. Well acclimatized party can make the roundtrip to the summit in a day from base camp. However, most parties use one high camp above Pereshaya Gab (+/- 5700m).

1953

First ascent

Evans, Gregory, Wylie, Tenzing & 7 sherpas

South East Flank/South West Ridge: Route page at SummitPost.

North Ridge

The route follows the true right bank of Imja glacier and right bank Lhotse Sar glacier, then climbs northwest slopes to the col of North Ridge (5690m, possible high camp). North ridge rises from Imjatse La (5690m) to the main summit (1 km, 490m). Along the snowy and possibly corniced ridge to the summit. Little more difficult than the normal route.
PD+

1958

First ascent

Alf Gregory, Dick Cook & two Sherpas

Lhotse (8501m)

Located right next to Mount Everest on the Himalayan main ridge. Separated from Everest by South Col (7906m). Lhotse means 'south peak' as it stands immediately south of Mount Everest. Actually it was earlier considered to be Everest south summit.
summits:
- Main Summit (8501m)
- Lhotse Middle (8430m)
- Lhotse Shar (East Summit) (8386m)

1956	First ascent	Swiss Fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss in 1956 via Khumbu Ice Fall and NW Face
2001-05-23	Ascent	Lhotse middle saw its first ascent by four members of the Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition from West Side on 23rd May 2001 at 3:00 p.m. Summiteers were Serguei Timofeev, Peter Kouzentsov, Alexei Bolotov and Evgueni Vinogradski.

Lhotse: Mountain page at Peakware.
Lhotse: Mountain page at SummitPost.
Lhotse Middle: Mountain page at SummitPost.

West face

Most common way of climbing Lhotse. The face is 2000m high and has average inclination of 40°.
From Western Cwm (Khumbu valley)

From Western Cwm in Khumbu valley. Shares the base camp and lower part of the route with Everest South Col route.
40-60°, IV . 2000m from Western Cwm

1956

First ascent

Swiss Fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss

Nuptse (7864m)

Located on the ridge running west from Lhotse main summit separating Khumbu and Imja valleys.
summits:
- East II (7686m)
- East I (7745m)
- Central (7810m)
- Main (7864m)
- West I (7775m)
- West II (7732m)

1961

First ascent

Denis Davis & Tashi Sherpa via the South Ridge/Face

North Face from Western Cwm

1979

First ascent

Georges Bettembourg, Brian Hall, Al Rouse & Doug Scott

Pokalde (5778m)

Pokalde is located at the end of the ridge separating Khumbu valley (west) and Imja valley (east).
summits:
- Main (North) (5778m)
- West (5700m)
- Middle (5730m)
- South (5700m)
- East (5575m)

North Ridge from Kongma La

From Kongma La pass (5535m) separating Pokalde from Kongma Tse (5798m). To the summit aloong long North ridge (aka Jolly Ridge) on firn.
PD . 3h from the col

S/SE Ridge

From Khumbu valley Kogma La pass
PD/PD+

Eastern Nepal & Sikkim

Sikkim lies sandwitched between Nepal in the west and Bhutan on the east, directly north of Bay of Bengal. It was formerly independent, but is know part of India. Mountains of Sikkim are renowned for their poor weather, frequent snowfall and general cloud cover. The considerable precipitation on these often steep sided peaks produces spectacular flutings and corniced crests much more in keeping with Peruvian mountains than those of the Himalaya. The range is dominated by massive Kangchenjunga (8586m), the easternmost 8000m peak. Little is known about the area and access is complicated. However, there are several high peaks, including several unclimbed 7000m peaks. Darjeeling, lying some 70km south of Kangchenjunga is the most conveniently located starting point for climbs in Sikkim.

The are has only one trekking peak, Bokta (6143m, group A). It has been very rarely climbed (if ever) and it is one of the most difficult trekking peaks.

map. At Footprint Adventures.

Makalu (8463m)

Makalu is located in Barun Valley in Nepal, immediately to the east of Khumbu area.

1955	First ascent	French party consisting of Jean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Jean Franco, Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux, André Vialatte and Gyalzen Norbu. They used NE Ridge from Makalu La.
1982	Ascent	Japanes team made the first ascent from Tibet

Makalu: Mountain page at Peakware.
Makalu: Mountain page at SummitPost.

North Flank and Ridge

NE Ridge from Makalu La

1955

First ascent

French party consisting of Jean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Jean Franco, Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux, André Vialatte and Gyalzen Norbu

Jannu (Khumbhakarna) (7710m)

Located in Kanchenjunga Himal in Nepal

1962

First ascent

Robert Paragot, Paul Kellar, René Desmaison & Sherpa Gyalzen Mitchu via SE Ridge

Kangchenjunga (8598m)

Located in Sikkim, in the northeast corner of Nepal, Kanchenjunga is the easternmost 8000m peak.
summits:
- Main (8598m)
- Central (8496m)
- South (8476m)
- Yalung Kang (West) (8420m)

1905	Attemp	Fist climbing attemp made in 1905 by a party led by Briton Aleister Crowley
1955-05-25	First ascent	First ascent by Britons George Band & Joe Brown 25.05.1955 via Yalung Face (SW side) to main summit. Tony Streather & Norman Hardie reached the summit only one day later.
1983	First solo ascent	Pierre Beghin (France) via SW Face
1985	First winter ascent	Poles Jerzy Kukuczska and Kryzysztof Wielicki. Their partner Czech Andzej Czok died on the descent from pulmonary edema.
1989	Ascent	Traverse of four summits were made in 1989 by a party of 10 Russian climbers

Karl Maria Herliggkoffer: Sieg am Kanchenjunga - die deutsche Erstbesteigung. Knaus Taschenbuch. Isbn: 3426037165.

Where is Kanchenjunga?
Kangchenjunga: Mountain page at Peakware.
Kangchenjunga: Mountain page at SummitPost.

Yalung Face (SW Route)

From Yalung glacier (Base Camp at 5500m close to Pache's grave) via Yalung Face (SW side).

1955-05-25

First ascent

George Band & Joe Brown

North Face "Warth"

Possible the safest, but not the easiest, route to main summit, that bypasses avalanche danger zone that threatens Japanese route. Base camp at 5200m on the rand of Kanchenjunga glacier.Camp 1 at 5500m, Camp 2 at 6000m, Camp 3 at 6600m, Camp 4 at 7300m, Camp 5 at 7500m and Camp 6 at 7900m. Techniocal difficulties are mainly found between Camps 2 and 3 on short ice wall and gully (45°) and mixed rock band between Camps 4 and 5 (up to British Severe/YDS 5.4. Route was found by the party led by H.Warth in 1983. They didn't reach the summit.

Bhutan and Eastern Tibet & India

The most important peak in Bhutan are Kula Kangri (7554m), Gankar Punsum (7541m) and Chomolhari (7314m).

Namche