Mount Siguniang. The Fourth Girl of Mount Siguniang is the highest peak, with the Third Girl to its right, Sichuan. Credit: Ben Kaethner,  Shot on 2014-07-31 Photo taken in , Chengdu, Sichuan, China.Licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.
Mount Siguniang. The Fourth Girl of Mount Siguniang is the highest peak, with the Third Girl to its right, Sichuan. Credit: Ben Kaethner, Shot on 2014-07-31 Photo taken in , Chengdu, Sichuan, China.Licensed under: CC BY-SA 3.0.

Highest peaks of Eastern Asia are to be found in one of the many Chinese ranges. They have been very unknown, but during the recent years several high profile ascent, including few Piolet d'Or winners and nominees, have taken place in China. They are also probable place to be featured in climbing media in years to come, as there are lot of ranges with high and spectacular looking ranges of which very little is known and virtually all peaks have not been climbed.

  • Maier, Frith: Trekking in Russia and Central Asia - A Traveler's Guide. Isbn: 0898863554. Mountaineers Books, 1994.

Xuelian Group

Xuelian Group is covered in Tien Shan section.

Tibetan Plateau

General

Area structure

Tibetan plateau is the vastest and the highest plateau of the world. It is surrounded by great number of high mountain ranges:

In the center of these rises lie several little known ranges known collectively as Central Tibetan Plateau.

General information

Main center for accessing peaks in Tibet is Lhasa.

Climbing information

Rules and regulations

Politically Tibet is autonomous region of China, which makes it subject to rules and regulations regarding climbing in China as well as special rules and regulation regarding to tourism in Tibet. To further complicate things, many of the highest peaks are located immediately on the border or within border zone.

  • Nakamura, Tamotsu: Die Alpen Tibets - Östlich Des Himalaya, 1 edition. Isbn: 9783937597256. Detjen Verlag, 2008.

Kunlun

Kunlun Shan (or Kunlun/Kun-Lun) is a major mountain system of Asia, located along the north edge of the vast dry Tibetan plains in China about halfway between the Himalayas in the south and Tien Shan in the north. On the west side, it borders on Pamir. The highest mountains of the range are located in the narrow western part in Kongur Shan group if that part of the range in counted as being part of Kunlun (some argue it is, some that is belongs to Pamir. The main range is very long and runs generally west to east but it divides into complex system in the eastern part with numerous parallel chains.

  • Kingata Shan Massif located just north of Kongur Shan. The highest peak is Chakragil (6760m).
  • Kongur Shan The highest part Kunlun Shan is the group is counted as part of Kunlun and not part of Pamir. The range has two main massifs, each with high peaks: Kongur (7649m) and the famous Muztagh Ata (7546m).
  • Kunlun Shan Kunlun Goddess (7167m)
  • Altyn Tagh Long chain that is mostly parallel to Kunlun main chain on it's north side. The five highest peaks are Sulamutag Feng (6245m), Yusupu Aleketag Shan (6065m), Altun Shan (5830m), Muzluktag (5766m) and Kogantag (4800m).
  • Arka Tagh Central part of Kunlun. The highest peak of the range is Ulugh Muztagh (6973m)
  • Amne Machin Amne Machin (6282m)
  • Qilian Qilian Shan peak (5547m), situated some 60km south of Jiuquan, is the highest peak of the main range, but there are two higher peaks further south, Kangze'gyai (5808m) and Qaidam Shan peak (5759m). The range continues to the west as Yema Shan (5250m) and Altun Shan (5798m).
  • Qin Mountains Mount Taibai (3767m)

There are several high peaks in the range with very difficult Kongur (7719m) being the highest. Technically easy Muztagh Ata (7546m) is by far the most climbed of the high peaks, it probably being the most popular of all 7000m peaks. Apart from Muztagh Ata, many mountains of the range are little known, remote and access is both difficult and takes a great deal of time. There are several unclimbed high peaks to be found in Kunlun. July and August are considered the best months for climbing. Approach to Kongur Chan is typically from Bishkek (Kyrgystan) via Kashgar or from Pakistan using Karakoram Highway. Also possible from Almaty (Kazakhstan) or China. Rest of the areas are approached from various Chinese cities.

  • Karakorum Highway Map. 0952171813. Cordee

Kongur Shan

Kingata Shan

Massif located just north of Kongur Shan. The highest peak is Chakragil (6760m).

Kongur Shan

The highest part Kunlun if the group is counted as part of Kunlun and not part of Pamir. The range has two main massifs, each with high peaks: Kongur (7649m) and the famous Muztagh Ata (7546m).

Kingata Shan
Chagragil (Chakar Aghil, Kingata Tagh)38.865833333333375.10833333333336760
1988-09-01
Chagragil, ,
First ascent
Misao Hirano, together with Minoru Hachisu & Kenji Nakayama
Kongur Shan
Kongur (Kongur Tagh, Kongur Shan)38.59333333375.3133333337649
Kongur (7719m) is the main summit of the Kongur-Tagh Massif and Kunlun Shan range. It is located in the western part of the range, not far from the Karakoram Highway and Muztagh Ata. Approach is reasonable from Karakul lake along Karakoram highway but all routes demand difficult climbing at high altitude.
1981-01-01
Kongur, SW Ridge,
First ascent
SW Ridge: Chris Bonington, Pete Boardman, Alan Rouse & Joe Tasker
1989-01-01
Kongur, Japanese Route,
First ascent
Japanese Route: Kyoto Karakoram Club led by Ryuichi Kotani
2004-08-09
Kongur, Russian route,
First ascent
Russian route: Kirill Korabelnikov, Valdis Purinsh, Oleg Silin & Valery Shamalo
2004-08-19
Kongur, Moscow express,
First ascent
Moscow express: Vladislav Kagan, Viktor Kulbachenko, Vladimir Legkih, Andrew Medvedev, Vyacheslav Odohovsky & Andrew Petrov
North side
Japanese Route (North ridge, NNE ridge). Rus 6B; 4100m. 1989-01-01First ascentKyoto Karakoram Club led by Ryuichi Kotani, 1989.
Russian route. Rus 6A; 3700m. 2004-08-09First ascentKirill Korabelnikov, Valdis Purinsh, Oleg Silin & Valery Shamalo, 2004-08-09.
NW face to upper NNE Spur. Slopes to the right of the Japanese line, eventually joining it on the upper part of the mountain.
Moscow express (NNE spur). Rus 6A; 53°; 4100m. 2004-08-19First ascentVladislav Kagan, Viktor Kulbachenko, Vladimir Legkih, Andrew Medvedev, Vyacheslav Odohovsky & Andrew Petrov, 2004-08-19.
South side
SW Ridge (SW rib & West ridge, Bonington Route). TD-/TD/Rus 6A; V; 2900m. 1981-01-01First ascentChris Bonington, Pete Boardman, Alan Rouse & Joe Tasker, 1981.
Base camp is located at 4800m (one days walk from Karakul lake). Route to Advanced base camp at 5400m involves very crevassed glacier (7-9h). From ABC long loop around South face and joins main West Ridge at Kongur col (6750m). From there along the ridge over Karyalak Peak (Junction, 7245) to col at 7220m. From there steep and difficult ridge to the summit.
  • Bonington Chris: Kongur China's Elusive Summit.
Outskirts of Infinity (SW Buttress). Rus 6B extra/ED; VI+; 2900m.
Kongur Jiubie (Kungur Tjube Tagh, Kongur Tiube)38.61583333375.1958333337530
Despite the name migh suggest a minor side summit of Kongur is is not really the case as the peak has topographic prominence of 840m, which makes it very much an independent peak.
1956-08-16
Kongur Jiubie, ,
First ascent
Party from Rus/Chn
Kokodak Tagh38.62638888975.1555555567210
2006-08-11
Kokodak Tagh, ,
First ascent
Party from Rus
Aklangm Tagh38.66416666775.1308333336978
2002-08-28
Aklangm Tagh, ,
First ascent
Party from Rus
Kongur (Kongur Tagh, Kongur Shan)38.59333333375.3133333337649
Kongur (7719m) is the main summit of the Kongur-Tagh Massif and Kunlun Shan range. It is located in the western part of the range, not far from the Karakoram Highway and Muztagh Ata. Approach is reasonable from Karakul lake along Karakoram highway but all routes demand difficult climbing at high altitude.
1981-01-01
Kongur, SW Ridge,
First ascent
SW Ridge: Chris Bonington, Pete Boardman, Alan Rouse & Joe Tasker
1989-01-01
Kongur, Japanese Route,
First ascent
Japanese Route: Kyoto Karakoram Club led by Ryuichi Kotani
2004-08-09
Kongur, Russian route,
First ascent
Russian route: Kirill Korabelnikov, Valdis Purinsh, Oleg Silin & Valery Shamalo
2004-08-19
Kongur, Moscow express,
First ascent
Moscow express: Vladislav Kagan, Viktor Kulbachenko, Vladimir Legkih, Andrew Medvedev, Vyacheslav Odohovsky & Andrew Petrov
North side
Japanese Route (North ridge, NNE ridge). Rus 6B; 4100m. 1989-01-01First ascentKyoto Karakoram Club led by Ryuichi Kotani, 1989.
Russian route. Rus 6A; 3700m. 2004-08-09First ascentKirill Korabelnikov, Valdis Purinsh, Oleg Silin & Valery Shamalo, 2004-08-09.
NW face to upper NNE Spur. Slopes to the right of the Japanese line, eventually joining it on the upper part of the mountain.
Moscow express (NNE spur). Rus 6A; 53°; 4100m. 2004-08-19First ascentVladislav Kagan, Viktor Kulbachenko, Vladimir Legkih, Andrew Medvedev, Vyacheslav Odohovsky & Andrew Petrov, 2004-08-19.
South side
SW Ridge (SW rib & West ridge, Bonington Route). TD-/TD/Rus 6A; V; 2900m. 1981-01-01First ascentChris Bonington, Pete Boardman, Alan Rouse & Joe Tasker, 1981.
Base camp is located at 4800m (one days walk from Karakul lake). Route to Advanced base camp at 5400m involves very crevassed glacier (7-9h). From ABC long loop around South face and joins main West Ridge at Kongur col (6750m). From there along the ridge over Karyalak Peak (Junction, 7245) to col at 7220m. From there steep and difficult ridge to the summit.
  • Bonington Chris: Kongur China's Elusive Summit.
Outskirts of Infinity (SW Buttress). Rus 6B extra/ED; VI+; 2900m.
Kongur Jiubie (Kungur Tjube Tagh, Kongur Tiube)38.61583333375.1958333337530
Despite the name migh suggest a minor side summit of Kongur is is not really the case as the peak has topographic prominence of 840m, which makes it very much an independent peak.
1956-08-16
Kongur Jiubie, ,
First ascent
Party from Rus/Chn
Kokodak Tagh38.62638888975.1555555567210
2006-08-11
Kokodak Tagh, ,
First ascent
Party from Rus
Aklangm Tagh38.66416666775.1308333336978
2002-08-28
Aklangm Tagh, ,
First ascent
Party from Rus
Muztagata Kunlun
Muztagh Ata38.27583333375.1166666677546
Normal route is non-technical and Muztagh Ata is nowadays very popular, far more so than Peak Lenin. Steep and remote eastern side was first climbed in 2000 by the party led by Dan Mazur via eastern ridge.
1956-01-01
Muztagh Ata, Kalaxong Ridge,
First ascent
Kalaxong Ridge: Chinese-Soviet expedition
1956-07-31
Muztagh Ata, ,
First ascent
E. A. Beletskiy
2000-07-01
Muztagh Ata, SE ridge,
First ascent
SE ridge: Walter Keller, Dan Mazur & Jan Otto
2004-08-24
Muztagh Ata, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: Valery Shamalo & Alexey Gorbatenkov
East side
SE ridge. 80°. 2000-07-01First ascentWalter Keller, Dan Mazur & Jan Otto, 2000-07.
South ridge. 2004-08-24First ascentValery Shamalo & Alexey Gorbatenkov, 2004-08-24.
West side
Access to the base camp on the west side of mountain is 3-4h hike from Karakoram highway.
West Face. Rus 5A; 40-45°; 3100m.
Normal route. Non-technical route on snow and ice, often climbed as a ski mountaineering trip. Normally no more than 30° with short sections of 40-45° possible. Base camp at 4450m and high camps at 5200-5400m, 6200m and 6800m.
Kalaxong Ridge (West Ridge of Muztagh Ata South summit). Rus 5A/AD/D-; III. 1956-01-01First ascentChinese-Soviet expedition, 1956.
Snow and ice climb with crevasses, more difficult than West Ridge. Starting from the base camp of normal route (4450m), usually high camps at 5400m, 6400m and 700m. Although the route does not go via Kalaxang summit (Muztagh Ata South Summit, 7277m), it is possible to include it.
Kuksay Tagh (Muztagh Ata II)38.29575.1216666677184
1981-08-07
Kuksay Tagh, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Koskulak Tagh38.23166666775.11257028
2005-08-10
Koskulak Tagh, NW ridge,
First ascent
NW ridge: Andrey Mashenin, Nikolay Sinyushin, Igor Tarnovsky, Michael Volkov & Alexander Vorobev
West side
NW ridge. 2005-08-10First ascentAndrey Mashenin, Nikolay Sinyushin, Igor Tarnovsky, Michael Volkov & Alexander Vorobev, 2005-08-10.
Kalaxong38.265555555555675.10527777777787277

Kunlun Shan

Kunlun Goddess (7167m)

Liushi Shan group

Liushi Shan I (Kunlun Goddess, Aksai Chin I)35.31583333380.9158333337167
The highest peak on Kunlun, if Kongur Shan is considered to belong to Pamir.
1986-08-16
Liushi Shan I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
SE side
SE side. AD; 900m.
Chongce Shan I35.38583333381.1041666676903
1988-08-22
Chongce Shan I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp

Chung Muztagh group

Chung Muztagh II35.64833333382.3366666676942
2009-10-06
Chung Muztagh II, ,
First ascent
Party from Rus

Altyn Tagh

Long chain that is mostly parallel to Kunlun main chain on it's north side. The five highest peaks are Sulamutag Feng (6245m), Yusupu Aleketag Shan (6065m), Altun Shan (5830m), Muzluktag (5766m) and Kogantag (4800m).

Arka Tagh

Central part of Kunlun. The highest peak of the range is Ulugh Muztagh (6973m)

Ulugh Muztagh (Muztag Feng, Muztag Feng)36.412587.3856973
Old survey of 1890 gave it a height of 7720m, more recent ones 6973m or 6989. Ulugh Muztagh is very remote and inaccessible, thus there have been very few climbs. Some expeditions have been stopped long before they reached the base of the mountain.
1985-10-21
Ulugh Muztagh, ,
First ascent
Chinese climbers led by Hu Fung Ling
1985-01-01
Ulugh Muztagh, ,
First ascent
Sino-American expedition from the east side
2003-01-01
Ulugh Muztagh, ,
First ascent
Finnish expedition to West Peak (Ulug Muztagh II)
Ulugh Muztagh II6925
2003-10-12
Ulugh Muztagh II, ,
First ascent
Party from SF
Bukadaban Feng I (Syn Qing Feng I, Buka Daban)36.02416666790.8658333336860
1992-05-18
Bukadaban Feng I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp

Amne Machin

Amne Machin I (Anyi Machen)34.798399.46256282
1981-05-01
Amne Machin I, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
Amne Machin II (Spyan-ras-gzigs)6268
1960-01-01
Amne Machin II, ,
First ascent
Party from Ch

Qilian

Qilian Shan peak (5547m), situated some 60km south of Jiuquan, is the highest peak of the main range, but there are two higher peaks further south, Kangze'gyai (5808m) and Qaidam Shan peak (5759m). The range continues to the west as Yema Shan (5250m) and Altun Shan (5798m).

Central Tibetan Plateau

Vast range in Tibet located to the east of Karakoram, to the south of Kunlun, to the north of Gangdise and Nyangchen Tanglha and to the west of Tanggula. These ranges are considered part of Transhimalayan range.

Nganglong Kangri

Nganglong Kangri is located in far West Tibet in the province of Ngari, 45km north of the county town, Gegye. The range lies c250km due north of the famous peaks, Gurla Mandata and Kailash, not far from Northern Tibet Highway. The group is reported to have 37 glaciers and more than 40 peaks over 6000m. There appears to be no official record of climbing having ever taken place in this isolated massif.

Shahkangshan Range

Shahkangshan is 25km north-south chain on snow peaks in Central Tibet. The range lies to the west of Tsochen road. The highest peak of the range is Shahkangshan (6822m), located at the northern end of the group.

Zangser Kangri34.376388888888985.83527777777786450
1990-01-01
Zangser Kangri, ,
First ascent
Japanese-Tibetan expedition

Tanggula

Tanggula lies further north of Tibetan plateau, to the north of Nyengchen Tanglha.

Geladaindong33.49583391.16756621
1985-01-01
Geladaindong, ,
First ascent
Japanese team via NW ridge approaching from the northeast

Transhimalaya

Transhimalaya is located in southern Tibet, between main Himalayan Crest and Yarlung Tsangpo river in the south and Kunlun Shan and Altyn Tagh in NW. It consists of two main sections: Gangdise in the western part and Nyengchen Tanglha in the east. Generally speaking Transhimalaya is lower than Greater Himalaya. However, there are still several very high peaks, culminating at Nyenchen Tanglha (7147m), Sepu Kangri (6950m), Loinbo Kangri (7095m) and Kailash (Gang Rimpoche, 6714).

Gangdise Shan

Lower western part of Transhimalaya is known as Gangdise Shan (or Kailas Range). It is is located to the north of Uttarakhand and Nepal. By far the best known mountain of the range is Mount Kailash (or Gang Rimpoche, 6714m/6656m), the sacred mountain. It isn't the highest peak of Gangdise though as Loinbo Kangri (7095m) is significantly higher.

Nganglong Kangri

Nganglong Kangri in located in far West Tibet in the province of Ngari, 45km north of the county town, Gegye. The range lies c250km due north of the famous peaks, Gurla Mandata and Kailash, not far from Northern Tibet Highway. The isolated is reported to have 37 glaciers and more than 40 peaks over 6000m. There appears to be no official record of climbing having ever taken place in this isolated massif.

Kailash range

Lower western part of Transhimalaya is known as Gangdise Shan (or Kailas Range).It is is located to the north of Uttarakhand and Nepal. By far the best known mountain of the range is Mount Kailash (or Gang Rimpoche, 6714m/6656m), the sacred mountain.

Loinbo Kangri group
Kailash group
Kailash (Kailas, Gang Rimpoche)31.06666781.31256714
Loinbo Kangri group
Lunpo Kangri (Loinbo Kangri, Lunpo Gangri)29.83333333384.6133333337095
1996-10-23
Lunpo Kangri, NE ridge,
First ascent
NE ridge: Cha Jin-Chol, You Seok-Jae & Bang Jung-il
NE ridge
From the col between Loinbo Kangri and small rock and snow pyramid (P. 6340m).
NE ridge. 1996-10-23First ascentCha Jin-Chol, You Seok-Jae & Bang Jung-il, 1996-10-23.
Kangbulu (Chomogan)6655
2006-01-01
Kangbulu, SE face to to SE ridge,
First ascent
SE face to to SE ridge: Bruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio
SE side
SE face to to SE ridge. 2006-01-01First ascentBruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio, 2006.
Phola Kyung6530
2006-01-01
Phola Kyung, SE face to East ridge,
First ascent
SE face to East ridge: Bruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio
SE side
SE face to East ridge. 2006-01-01First ascentBruce Normand, Brian Alder & Erik Monasterio, 2006.
Most easterly of four snow couloirs on the South East face and then along the upper East ridge to the summit.
Gopalho6450
2006-01-01
Gopalho, East face,
First ascent
East face: Bruce Normand
East face
East face. 2006-01-01First ascentBruce Normand, 2006.

Nyangchen Tanglha Shan

Nyangchen Tanglha Shan is the higher of Tibetan Transhimalayan ranges. It is located in eastern Tibet to the north of Sikkim, Bhutan and Assam Himalaya and east of Gangdise, north from the city of Lhasa. The highest peak of the range is Nyenchen Tanglha Feng (7147m). Also Sepu Kangri (6950m) in the eastern part of the range, is among the best-known among the climbers. Not a lot is known about climbing in Nyangchen Tanglha. Most of the peaks have never been climbed and those that have, usually only a handful of times by one or two routes. That is to say that the range is full of potential for first ascents and explorative climbing.

West Nyenchen Tanglha

West Nyenchen Tanglha includes the four highest peaks in the range, all above 7000m: Mount Nyenchen Tanglha (Nyainqêntanglha) (7162m), Nyenchen Tanglha II (7117m), Nyenchen Tanglha III (7046m) and Jomo Gangtse (Qungmoganze) (7048m), all located in Damxung (Damshung) County of Lhasa Prefenture. West Nyenchen Tanglha separates the basins of the Yarlung Tsangpo River (Brahmaputra) in the south from the basins of the Changtang in the north. In particular, it lies to the southeast of Namtso Lake.

Shakangsham (Xiakangjian Feng, Shahkangshan)31.69666666785.06256822
2002-10-07
Shakangsham, ,
First ascent
Party from UK
Nyenchen Tanglha
  • Nyainqentanglha Feng (Nyenchen Tanglha I, Nyenchen Tanglha NW) (7147m)
  • Nyainqentanglha II (7117m)
  • Nyainqentanglha III (7046m)
The highest peak in the whole range has three main summits: Nyachen Tanglha I (NW or Main Summit, 7162m), Nyanchen Tanglha II (Central, 7117m) and Nyanchen Tanglha III (SE, 7046m)
Nyainqentanglha Feng (Nyenchen Tanglha I, Nyenchen Tanglha NW)30.38916666790.5591666677147
1986-01-01
Nyainqentanglha Feng, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Hiroshi Naganuma, Yusake Maruyama & Michihara Wada
West side
West ridge. 1986-01-01First ascentHiroshi Naganuma, Yusake Maruyama & Michihara Wada, 1986.
Nyainqentanglha II30.37083333390.5841666677117
1989-01-01
Nyainqentanglha II, SSW spur,
First ascent
SSW spur: Wolfgang Axt and four other members from his Austrian expedition
SW side
SSW spur. 30-45°. 1989-01-01First ascentWolfgang Axt and four other members from his Austrian expedition, 1989.
Nyainqentanglha III30.36833333390.6008333337046
1995-08-22
Nyainqentanglha III, ,
First ascent
Party from Jp
2002-01-01
Nyainqentanglha III, SW ridge,
First ascent
SW ridge: Erich Gatt & Stefan Gatt
SW side
SW ridge. IV/V, 60°. 2002-01-01First ascentErich Gatt & Stefan Gatt, 2002.
Qiongmo Kangri (Qungmoganze, Jomo Gantse)29.90416666790.0258333337048
1996-10-07
Qiongmo Kangri, ,
First ascent
Wang Yon-Feng, Jung in-Kyu, Cha Jin-Chol, Moon Young-Soung & You Seok-Jae
1996-10-07
Qiongmo Kangri, South ridge,
First ascent
South ridge: Wang Yon-Feng, Jung in-Kyu, Cha Jin-Chol, Moon Young-Soung & You Seok-Jae
South ridge
South ridge. 1996-10-07First ascentWang Yon-Feng, Jung in-Kyu, Cha Jin-Chol, Moon Young-Soung & You Seok-Jae, 1996-10-07.
Karpogo Sar I (Kezhen, Chiring Peak)35.92576.1733333337038
1989-08-14
Karpogo Sar I, ,
First ascent
Party from Cz/Ger
Beutse6270

East Nyenchen Tanglha

East Nyenchen Tanglha, located in the prefecture of Nagchu, Chamdo and Nyingchi, marks the water divide between the Yarlung Tsangpo to the south and the Nak Chu river (which becomes the Nujiang and Salween in its lower reach) to the north. The rugged and heavily glaciated range counts more than 240 peaks over 6000m, culminating with Sepu Kangri. Most of the peaks in East Nyenchen Tanglha, sometimes called the Alps of Tibet, are unclimbed.

Nenang Group

South of the Yigong Tsangpo between the village of Lhari (4460m) and Basong Lake (c3500m, NW of the lake).

East of Basong lake

East of Basong lake.

Jalong group

Group of four main peaks around Jalong Glacier west of the Zepu Qu Valley. Jalong II is the highest mountain in the largely unexplored eastern end of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha, surrounding the Botoi Tsangpo Basin north of the Parlung and Yibong Tsangpo Rivers. No mountains there have yet been climbed. Particularly East face of Jalong I is highly aesthetic objective.

Kangri Garpo
Sepu Kangri group
Sepu Kangri30.90333333393.78756950
2002-10-02
Sepu Kangri, West ridge,
First ascent
West ridge: Carlos Buhler & Mark Newcomb
  • Bonington, Chris & Clarke, Charles: Tibet's Secret Mountain - The Triumph of Sepu Kangri. Isbn: 9780756762308. Diane Pub Co, 1999.
West side
Chris Bonington tried to gain the West ridge by North (1997) and NW ridges (Fotheringham's Ridge, 1998) of Seamo Uylmitok (Turquoise Flower; 6650m). The west ridge proper starts as 6400m.
West ridge. 2002-10-02First ascentCarlos Buhler & Mark Newcomb, 2002-10-02.
Nenang group
Nenang30.302593.6491666676870
Chokporsium6359
Kajaqiao6447
A spectacular rock and snow peak often dubbed the Matterhorn of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha.
2005-10-31
Kajaqiao, West face & upper NW ridge,
First ascent
West face & upper NW ridge: Mick Fowler & Chris Watts
West face
West face & upper NW ridge. TD; Sco V; 1100m. 2005-10-31First ascentMick Fowler & Chris Watts, 2005-10-31.
Manamcho6240
2007-04-25
Manamcho, NW ridge,
First ascent
NW ridge: Mick Fowler & Paul Ramsden
NW ridge
NW ridge (British route). TD; Sco V; 700m. 2007-04-25First ascentMick Fowler & Paul Ramsden, 2007-04-25.
Birutaso6691
East of Basong lake
Jieqinnalagabu (Namla Karpo)6316
Kangri Garpo
Lopchin6805
2009-11-05
Lopchin, ,
First ascent
Party from Chn

Hengduan Mountains

The Hengduan Mountains is a large mountainous region in southwestern China. It occupies most of the western part of the present-day Sichuan province, as well as the northwestern corner of Yunnan province and the easternmost section of Tibet Autonomous Region. This approximates the historical region known as Kham. It forms the south-eastern border of the Tibet Plateau. Mountain ranges in the southern end of the Hengduan system form the border between Burma and China.

It is a complicated system of mountain ranges, most of which run roughly north to south. The best known of these areas are Daxue Shan and Qionglai ranges in Sichuan. The former is where Minya Konka (7556m), the highest peak of the range, is located. Smaller ranges forming the eastern edge of the Hengduan system include the Daxiangling and Xiaoxiangling ranges.

  • Brandtner, Michael: Minya Konka - Schneeberge Im Osten Tibets. Die Entdeckung Eines Alpin-Paradieses, 1 edition. Isbn: 9783937597201. Detjen, Pedro, 2006.
  • Nakamura, Tamotsu: Die Alpen Tibets - Östlich Des Himalaya, 1 edition. Isbn: 9783937597256. Detjen Verlag, 2008.

SE Tibet (Yunnan)

  • Hkakabo Razi
  • Baxoila-Gaoligong Ranges
  • Damyon and Meili Xueshan
  • Baimang Shan
  • Yulong Xueshan and Haba Xueshan

Daxue Shan

The Daxue Mountains are a great mountain range in the western part of Sichuan province in Southwest China, to the east of Assam Himalaya and Nyengchen Tanglha. The Daxue Mountain Range runs for several hundred kilometers in the general north-south direction, mostly within Sichuan's Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It separates the basins of the Yalong River (to the west) and the Dadu River (to the east). Both rivers flow in the general southern direction, and are tributaries of the Yangtze. The tallest peak of the range is Gongga Shan (Minya Konka, 7556m), the easternmost 7000m peak in Asia, located in the southern part of the range. To the east and south of the Gongga Shan, the Daxue Mountains are adjacent to the smaller Daxiangling and Xiaoxiangling ranges, which are usually considered by cartographers as separate ranges.

Minya Konka (Gongga Shan)29.595101.876666677556
1932-10-28
Minya Konka, ,
First ascent
Party from USA
Left Pillar (NW ridge). 45-50°, II.
Normal route. Base camp around 4380m. From there to NW ridge via steep glacier (45-50°) and left pillar. Then along ridge until the "Hump", vertical ice block at 6300m, that is turned, then along the the ridge on ice and rock (UIAA II) to the summit. Camps at 5310m, 5900m and 6600-6800m.
Zhong Shan29.640555556101.926885
1981-06-04
Zhong Shan, ,
First ascent
Party from CH
Mount Grosvenor (Ri Wu Qie Feng)29.7631101.87006376
2003-11-01
Mount Grosvenor, ,
First ascent
Roger Payne & Julie-Ann Clyma
2003-11-01
Mount Grosvenor, SW ridge,
First ascent
SW ridge: Roger Payne & Julie-Ann Clyma
2010-11-01
Mount Grosvenor, Central couloir,
First ascent
Central couloir: Kyle Dempster & Bruce Normand
2011-01-01
Mount Grosvenor, Black Wolves and Blue Poppies,
First ascent
Black Wolves and Blue Poppies: Jeff Shapiro & Chris Gibisch
West side
Central couloir. WI4+; 2050m, 15h. 2010-11-01First ascentKyle Dempster & Bruce Normand, 2010-11.
Black Wolves and Blue Poppies. M5+ WI4+ AI6; 1300m. 2011-01-01First ascentJeff Shapiro & Chris Gibisch, 2011.
SW ridge. 2003-11-01First ascentRoger Payne & Julie-Ann Clyma, 2003-11.
Mount Edgar (E-Gongga)29.7335101.91276618
2002-01-01
Mount Edgar, ,
First ascent
Korean party
2002-01-01
Mount Edgar, South side,
First ascent
South side: Korean party
2010-11-01
Mount Edgar, The Rose of No-Man's Land,
First ascent
The Rose of No-Man's Land: Kyle Dempster & Bruce Normand
North face
East face
The Rose of No-Man's Land. nccs VI M6 WI5; 2400m. 2010-11-01First ascentKyle Dempster & Bruce Normand, 2010-11.
South side
South side. 2002-01-01First ascentKorean party, 2002.
Daddomain6380

Qionglai Mountains

The highest point of the Qionglai Mountains is Siguniang Shan (6250m) located in the southern part of the range.

Siguniang Shan31.106667102.9016676250
  • DaFeng (5025m)
  • ErFeng (5276m)
  • SanFeng (5355m)
  • Yaomei Feng (6250m31.106667102.901667)
Siguniang Shan ("Four Sisters Mountain") is the highest peak of Qionglai Mountains in Western China. It is located in the bordering area of Rilong Town, Xiaojin County and Wenchuan County in Ngawa Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. The peak is the second highest in Sichuan. While the lower peaks are popular and nor particularly difficult (DaFeng requires only Trekking), the highest peak is serious climbing peak with few attempts and even fewer successes.
1981-01-01
Siguniang Shan, SE ridge,
First ascent
SE ridge: Japanese party via East ridge
1992-01-01
Siguniang Shan, South Buttress,
First ascent
South Buttress: Japanese party
1994-01-01
Siguniang Shan, Charlie Fowler route,
First ascent
Charlie Fowler route: Charlie Fowler
2002-04-21
Siguniang Shan, Inside Line,
First ascent
Inside Line: Mick Fowler & Paul Ramsden
2009-11-27
Siguniang Shan, Free Spirits,
First ascent
Free Spirits: Yan Dongdong & Zhou Peng
2011-11-13
Siguniang Shan, Liberation,
First ascent
Liberation: Sun Bin & Li Zhongli
North face
Inside Line. ED+; VII/AI6/M6; 1500m. 2002-04-21First ascentMick Fowler & Paul Ramsden, 2002-04-21.
Winner of Piolet d'Or 2002.
South face
SE ridge (Japanese route, Iwata-Takahashi). 1981-01-01First ascentJapanese party via East ridge, 1981.
Snow and ice on the left-hand side of the south face to prominent shoulder on the East ridge, along the ridge to summit.
Free Spirits. 1120m. 2009-11-27First ascentYan Dongdong & Zhou Peng, 2009-11-27.
Logical line through central couloir.
Liberation. AI3+,M4. 2011-11-13First ascentSun Bin & Li Zhongli, 2011-11-13.
Charlie Fowler route. 1994-01-01First ascentCharlie Fowler, 1994.
South Buttress (Yoshimura). 1992-01-01First ascentJapanese party, 1992.