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Caucasus

Western Caucasus

Dombai

Dombay-Ulgen (Dombai-Ulgen) (4046m)

Dombai areaThe only 4000m peak in Western Caucasus. There are plenty of established routes.
Mt.Belalakaja (Mt.Belalakaya, Gora Belalakaya)

Dombai area"Matterhorn of the Caucasus". Lower summit (3748m, 2A from NE.
Mt Dzuguturlyuchat
Mt Ptish
Mt Aksaut
Mt Bu-Ulgen
Mt Kara-Kaya

Uzunkol

Mount Dalar

Central Caucasus

Baksan valley (Elbrus area)

Elbrus

Elbrus (5633m)

Located at Caucasus, volcanic Elbrus is the highest mountain of Europe and thus one of the "Seven Summits". There are two main summits, Elbrus West and Eastare separated by col (5416m). Snow line is around 3400m in August, and weather at base camp can be very warm. Normal routes start at Refuge Eleven Hut (also knows as Prijut 11 or Diesel Hut, 4100m) or Barrels Huts (also known as Botchki, 3900m). Barrels Huts can be reached from Baksan valley by ski lifts. Because of its symmetrical shape, Elbrus does not offer a great choice of different routes, most everyone climbs the normal route.

  • Elbrus (5633m)
  • Elbrus (5621m)
1868
First ascent
 Akia Sottaev (Reached the summit at the age of 86!) and Douglas Freshfield
West Peak
West Peak, Southern route. Rus 2A/PD-/nccs III 35-40; 35-40°; 1540m, 6-8h from Eleven Hut in ascent, 4-5h in descent. D.W. Freshfield, A.W. Moore, C. Tucker, A. Sottajev, D. Datosov & F. Devouassoud, 1874-07.
Normal route. Non-technical snow climb via Pastuchov rocks and col between West and East summits. Almost crevasse-free.
Traverse from Kiukiurtliu Dome. Normal, .
From the Alter Rundblick stop on the cableway via southern route to Kiukiurtliu Dome (4912m, 2B) and West Ridge to Elbrus West summit. Camp in a col after the dome (7-10h).
East Peak
East Peak, Southern route. Normal, Rus 2A/PD-; 1540m, 6-8h from Eleven Hut. F. Crauford Grove, F. Gardiner, H. Walker, A. Sottajev & P. Knubel in, 1874-07.
Non-technical snow climb via Pastuchov rocks and col between West and East summits. Almost crevasse-free.

Main ridge

Lower Donguz-Orun
Nakra-Tau (Nakra, Nakratau)

Important peak rising above Donguz-Orun valley and Cheget village. Located next to Donguz-Orun West Peak on caucasus main ridge.
North face
1600m high north face has several big routes. Although easier and safer than routes on neighboring north face of Donguz-Orun West, the face is still plenty hard for most tastes. Lewft Pillar (Abalakov) is considered to be the best route on the face.
  • Donguz-Orun valley
NW ridge. Rus 2B-3A depending on chosen line.
Left Pillar "Abalakov". Rus 4B; IV; 12-16h.
Cosnsidered to be the best route on the face, classic. Bender considers the route to be comparable in difficulty to Frendo Spur on the north face of Aiguille du Midi (D+).
Right Pillar. Rus 4B; III.
North Buttress. Rus 4A.
"Italian couloir".
Donguz-Orun (Donguzorun, Donguz-orun) (4452m)

Large peak located on Caucasus main ridge dominating the landscape of Chgeget village with neighboring Nakra-Tau. Has several important climbing routes, especially on huge North Faces.

  • West (4437m)
  • Main (4452m)
  • East (4442m)
South side
  • From Cheget in Baksan valley via Donguz-orun valley and Donguz-orun Pass to the south (Georgian) side of Caucasus main ridge. Bivouac on the glacier.
South side via Donguz-orun Pass. Rus 2A; 2 days from Cheget.
North face of West Peak
Very long and difficult mixed routes with significant objective hazard. More difficult than neighboring Nakra-Tau north face. "Seven" considered to be the most feasible route on the face.
  • Donguz-Orun valley
West, NE Ridge. Rus 4A; 2 days.
easiest ascent from Donguz-Orun valley. Complex and varies route with difficulties in rock and ice. Bivouac at NE ridge lake, from there 7-9h to West summit. Possible to traverse to the main summit.
West, North Face "Seven" (Khergiani). Rus 5B; 2 days.
West, NW Buttress "Rototaev". Rus 4B.
Gains NE Ridge about middle way between NE Ridge lake and summit.
East Ridge
  • From Camp Baksan via Yusengi valley. 5-7h.
Donguz-orun East, East Ridge and North Pillar. Rus 2B; 7-8h from bivouac.
Possible to traverse to main summit.
North face of Main and East Peaks
Very long and serious mixed routes.
  • Yusengi valley
Kogutai

Located on the smaller side ridge branching from Caucasus main ridge at Dionguz-Orun West separating Donguz-Orun and Y4usengi valleys.
Ahksu
Little Shkhelda
Sportsman's Peak
Bivouac Peak
Trade Union Peak
Railway Worker's Peak
Shkhelda (4320m)

Shkhelda Wall is a long barrier with several summits.

  • West 1 (4228m)
  • West 2 (4310m)
  • Scientists' Peak
  • Pik Aristov (4229m)
  • Central (4295mm)
  • East (4320m)
West, North face
Mighty steep face with numerous very difficult routes. One of the best-known faces in Caucasus.
  • Approach to north side climbs is from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley (access from Terskol).
Central, North face
Mighty steep face with numerous very difficult routes. One of the best-known faces in Caucasus.
  • Approach to north side climbs is from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley (access from Terskol).
Martinov's Way (Snow Shovel). Rus 5B/nccs VI 5.9/5.10; 1300m. V.Martinov, 1955.
From Skheldinskiy glacier via Col between Central Peak and Pik Aristov (4229m).
Subortovich's way. Rus 6A/nccs VI 5.11,A2+; 1300m. B.Subortovich, 1959.
On the east side of "Snow Showel".
North face
Mighty steep face with numerous very difficult routes. One of the best-known faces in Caucasus.
  • Approach to north side climbs is from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley (access from Terskol).
Original Route. Rus 4B/nccs V 5.6/5.7; 1600m. Abalakov and party, 1950.
North Face. Rus 5B/nccs VI 5.9/5.10; 1200m. Chashnikov and party, 1939.
North Face Left Side. Winter, Rus 6A/nccs VI 5.10,A2+; 1300m. Astahov,Kolisnik,Koshelenko,Nikitenko & Polohov, .
Khergiani. Rus 5B/nccs VI 5.10/5.11; 1300m. Hergiani and party, 1959.
The Mirror. Rus 6A/nccs VI 5.11,A3; 1300m. Polevoi and party, .
North Face Original Route "The Little Fish". Rus 1400m; 5B (VI 5.9/5.10). Eliseev and party, 1956.
North Face. Winter, Rus 5B/nccs VI 5.9/5.10; 1400m. Baliberdin and party, 1984.
The Night Before Xmas. Winter, Rus 5B/nccs VI 5.10; 1600m. Bobok & Koshelenko, 2001.
North Face to North West Ridge. Rus 5B/nccs VI 5.10/5.11,A2; 1500m. Rototaev and party, 1965.
North West Ridge. Rus 5A/nccs VI 5.8/5.9; 1500m. Abalakov and party, 1947.
A variant to this leaves the ridge in its upper section and slants right above the seracs to the summit crest.
Bzedukh
Pik Woolley
Pik Kavkaz
Pik Germogenonova
Chegetkara
Ullukara
Free Spain peak (Volnaya Ispania)
Bashkara
Jantugan (Dzhan-Tugan)

Located next to Bashkara on Caucasus main ridge.
  • Jantugan. Mountain page at SummitPost .
Godil

Located south of Caucasus main ridge. Usually climbed only as part of Bahkara traverse.
Lekzir-Tau

Located south of Caucasus main ridge. Usually climbed only as part of Bahkara traverse.
Gumatchi

Easy and accessible peak, routes doable as one day trips from Green Hotel.
  • Gumatchi. Mountain page at SummitPost .
Cheget-Tau

Located next to Gumatchi.
Ullu-Tau (Ullutau) (4207m)

Most important peak in Adyr-Su valley for climbers. 800m high North face between Mestiyskiy Pass in the east and Garvash Pass on the West has several difficult ice and mixed routes that can be climbed year round.

  • West (4203m)
  • Main (4207m)
  • East (4058m)
1903-08
First ascent
 L. Rolleston via Garvash Pass and North Ridge.
Main, North face
800m high North face between Mestiyskiy Pass in the east and Garvash Pass on the West has several difficult ice and mixed routes that can be climbed year round.
  • Base for the routes on northern side is Ullu-Tau Camp (2360m) in Adir-Su valley. From there routes are reached using Cheget or Naumov bivouacs as starting point.
Abalakov. Rus 5B; 800m. V.Abalakov, 1951.
West, North face
800m high North face between Mestiyskiy Pass in the east and Garvash Pass on the West has several difficult ice and mixed routes that can be climbed year round.
  • Base for the routes on northern side is Ullu-Tau Camp (2360m) in Adir-Su valley. From there routes are reached using Cheget or Naumov bivouacs as starting point.
Shield". Rus 4B/TD-; 800m. Approach 1h, climb 6-10h. D. Gudkov, M. Svesdkin, G. Odnobljudov & M. Tschertkov, 1946-08.
Most classic climb on Ullu-Tau. Starting point is Cheget bivouac on Ullu-Tau glacier, from there 1h to start of the climb by rock island. Climb 6-10h.
East, North face
800m high North face between Mestiyskiy Pass in the east and Garvash Pass on the West has several difficult ice and mixed routes that can be climbed year round.
  • Base for the routes on northern side is Ullu-Tau Camp (2360m) in Adir-Su valley. From there routes are reached using Cheget or Naumov bivouacs as starting point.
North face.
Main, East Ridge
  • From Mestiyskaya hut on East Ullu-Tau glacier to Mestiyskaya pass
Zolotarev. Rus 3A; 7-12h from Mestia Pass to East Peak, traverse to Main Peak 1h. A.Zolotarev, 1938.
Normal route. From Mestiyskaya pass along East Ridge to East Peak.
Traverse. Rus 4A; V.
From Mestia Pass along normal route to Main Peak. From there traverse to West Peak 6-8h (V).
North Ridge
  • From the Camp Ullu-tau via Cheget bivouac and Garvash pass (3-5h, possible bivouac).
West, normal route from north. Rus 2B; 3-4h from Garvash pass. T.G. Longstaff & L. Rolleston, 1903-08.
Normal route. From Garvash pass to West Ridge. Avalanche danger.
Lazga
Sarikol
Mestia-Tau

Ushba group

Ushba (4710m)

Twin pyramids of Ushba is a very difficult and prestigeous mountain. There are more than 50 routes up to Ushba, 10 of them are RUS 6A and 13 rated as RUS 5B.

  • North Peak (4694m)
  • South Peak (4710m)
1888
Ushba, ,
First ascent		 North Peak, J.G.Cockin & Ulrich Almer from Gul Glacier via great ice couloir (4A, very serious).
1903-07
Ushba, ,
First ascent		 South Peak, A. Schulze, R. Helbling, F. Reichert, O. Schuster & A. Weber via SW Ridge.
North Peak, north side
  • Ushba glacier can be reached from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley via Shkhelda glacier and over the pass on Shkhelda wall (through Ushba ice fall). Ascent takes typically 2 days (13-17h) from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) to Ushba Plateau (4000m, bivouac).
NE Ridge. Rus 4A/D; 50°; 700m, 6-9h. H. Pfann, L. Distel & G. Leuchs, 1903-08.
Normal route. The easiest route, mainly on snow and ice. The route is supposedly technically easier than its grade suggests (3B) but the harder grade is is given due to significant objective risk.
South Peak, North Ridge
  • Ushba glacier can be reached from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley via Shkhelda glacier and over the pass on Shkhelda wall (through Ushba ice fall). Ascent takes typically 2 days (13-17h) from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) to Ushba Plateau (4000m, bivouac).
Traverse from North Peak to South Peak. Rus 5A; From a bivouac on Ushba glacier (4000m), 700m. Pfann, L. Distel & G. Leuchs, 1903-08.
The easiest ascent on Ushba South from from Ushba Plateau. Follows the normal route of Ushba North (N Ridge, 4A, 6-9h), then traverses to South summit.
South Peak West face
  • Ushba glacier can be reached from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley via Shkhelda glacier and over the pass on Shkhelda wall (through Ushba ice fall). Ascent takes typically 2 days (13-17h) from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) to Ushba Plateau (4000m, bivouac).
Kustovskiy. Rus 6B extra; VI; 1500m. A.Kustovskiy, 1963.
The prestige route of Caucasus on the Pillar of Ushba. From Ushba glacier on West side (bivouac "Okhotnichi nochiovky") to Georgian ledge at the start of the pillar.
South Peak, NW face - NW Rib. Rus 5B.
North Peak, West face
  • Ushba glacier can be reached from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley via Shkhelda glacier and over the pass on Shkhelda wall (through Ushba ice fall). Ascent takes typically 2 days (13-17h) from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) to Ushba Plateau (4000m, bivouac).
West Face Direct. Rus 5B; Sco V; 1600m. M.A. Fowler & A.V. Saunders, 1986-08.
Ice route.
Kolomitsev's Route. Rus 6A; 1500m. V.Kolomitsev, 1982.
From Ushba glacier on West side (bivouac "Okhotnichi nochiovky"). At first in the couloir leading to col between the summits, then slanting to North Peak.
South side
South Peak, SW Ridge "Schulze". Rus 5A. A. Schulze, R. Helbling, F. Reichert, O. Schuster & A. Weber, 1903-07.
Normal route. From Gul bivouac via Mazeri notch to SW Ridge.
Pik Shchurovskiy (Shchurovskiy Peak, Pik Schurovskogo)
North face
North Face has routes between 4B (NW Ridge) and 5B with "Khergiani" at 5B (TD+) being probably the most famous (45° steep rock, 400m).
NW Ridge. Rus 4B.
Khergiani. Rus 5B/TD+; 45°; 400m.
SE Ridge
SE Ridge (SE Crest). Rus 2A; 300m, 2-3h from Ushba Plateau.
Little Ushba
Chatyn (Chatin, Chatyn-Tay) (4368m)
  • West (4310m)
  • Main (4368m)
North face (Rhombus)
North face, known as "Rhombus", that rises for 500m with average angle of 82° is home to some of the most difficult routes in Caucasus (grade 6)

Adyr-Su chain

Jailik
Tiutiu Bashi
Yunomkara-Tau
Oru-Bashi
Adyr-Su Bashi

Bezengi area

Bezengi Wall

Shkhara (5184m)

Highest point of Bezengi wall. Main summit is the second highest peak in Caucasus. All routes are difficult. Climbing is mostly done on huge icy north face and summit ridge, rocky south side is seldom climbed.

  • South (SW) (4350m)
  • West (5047m)
  • Main (5184m)
  • Southeast (4500m)
1888-09
First ascent
 J. Cockin, U. Almer & C. Roth via NW Ridge.
  • Shkhara. Mountain page at SummitPost .
Main, North face
Mixed north face rises about 2000m from the base and features several difficult routes.
Gestola
Lyalver
Northern Massif
Dych-Tau (Dychtau, Dykhtau)

Massive, technically challenging mountain located in Northern massive in Bezengi area.
1888
First ascent
 A.F.Mummery & H.Zurfluh via SW Ridge.
  • Dychtau. Mountain page at SummitPost .
Koshtan-Tau

Located in Northern massif in Bezengi area.
1889
First ascent
 H. Wooley and party
  • Koshtan. Mountain page at SummitPost .
Misses-Tau

Located in Northern massif in Bezengi area.
1889
First ascent
 H. Wooley and party
Pik Sella

Located to the south of Mirzhirgi. Because of its location, Pik Sella has a fine panorama to the mighty Bezengi Wall.
First ascent
 First ascent by Emmanuelle Sella & party.

Kazbek region

Mount Kazbek

6th highest peak in Caucasus (and Europe). Extinct volcano located in the eastern part of Central Caucasus. From meteorological station (3680m) there are two options, either normal route or SE snow and ice gully (3B).
1868
First ascent
 Douglas Freshfield, A.W. Moore & C.C. Tucker
Gergeti Glacier. Rus 2A/PD; 35-40°; 1400m, 6-8h.
Normal route. From the village of Kazbegi (1700m) to Observatory meteorologigal station (3680m, 4-6h). From there along Gergeti glacier to summit.
SE route. Rus 3B.
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