Ari's Base Camp: Caucasus

Dombay-Ulgen (Dombai-Ulgen) (4046m)

Dombai area

normal route via Dombai saddle

3B

Mt.Belalakaja (Mt.Belalakaya) (3861m)

Dombai area

via northern ridge

Rock route. Most difficult parts are at Saharov's gendarme and close to summit.
3B

via southern rib

Easiest route.
3A

Mt Dzuguturlyuchat (3921m)

Mt Ptish (3520m)

Mt Aksaut (3910m)

Mt Bu-Ulgen (3910m)

Mt Kara-Kaya (3896m)

Mount Dalar (3979m)

Elbrus (5633m)

Located at Caucasus, volcanic Elbrus is the highest mountain of Europe and thus one of the "Seven Summits". There are two main summits, Elbrus West and Eastare separated by col (5416m). Snow line is around 3400m in August, and weather at base camp can be very warm. Normal routes start at Refuge Eleven Hut (also knows as Prijut 11 or Diesel Hut, 4100m) or Barrels Huts (also known as Botchki, 3900m). Barrels Huts can be reached from Baksan valley by ski lifts. Because of its symmetrical shape, Elbrus does not offer a great choice of different routes, most everyone climbs the normal route.
summits:
- Elbrus (5633m)
- Elbrus (5621m)

1868

First ascent

Akia Sottaev (Reached the summit at the age of 86!) and Douglas Freshfield

Mt.Elbrus Western Summit, 20 August 1996: By John Lohr
Elbrus at PeakBagger
Elbrus info site: Very good practical information about the approach, accommodation,permits etc.
Elbrus: Mountain page at Peakware.
Elbrus: Mountain page at SummitPost.

West Peak, Southern route

Non-technical snow climb via Pastuchov rocks and col between West and East summits. Almost crevasse-free.
RUS 2A (PD-; 35-40°) . 6-8h from Eleven Hut in ascent, 4-5h in descent.

1874-07

First ascent

D.W. Freshfield, A.W. Moore, C. Tucker, A. Sottajev, D. Datosov & F. Devouassoud

East Peak, Southern route

Non-technical snow climb via Pastuchov rocks and col between West and East summits. Almost crevasse-free.
RUS 2A (PD-) . 6-8h from Eleven Hut.

1874-07

First ascent

F. Crauford Grove, F. Gardiner, H. Walker, A. Sottajev & P. Knubel in

West Peak, Traverse from Kiukiurtliu Dome

From the Alter Rundblick stop on the cableway via southern route to Kiukiurtliu Dome (4912m, 2B) and West Ridge to Elbrus West summit. Camp in a col after the dome (7-10h).

Donguz-Orun (Donguzorun) (4452m)

summits:
- West (4437m)
- Main (4452m)
- East (4442m)

South side

From Cheget in Baksan valley via Donguz-orun valley and Donguz-orun Pass to the south (Georgian) side of Caucasus main ridge. Bivouac on the glacier.

South side via Donguz-orun Pass

2A . 2 days from Cheget.

North face of West Peak

Very long and difficult mixed routes with significant objective hazard. More difficult than neighboring Nakra-Tau north face. "Seven" considered to be the most feasible route on the face.
Donguz-Orun valley

West, NE Ridge

easiest ascent from Donguz-Orun valley. Complex and varies route with difficulties in rock and ice. Bivouac at NE ridge lake, from there 7-9h to West summit. Possible to traverse to the main summit.
4A . 2 days

West, North Face "Seven" (Khergiani)

5B . 2 days

West, NW Buttress "Rototaev"

Gains NE Ridge about middle way between NE Ridge lake and summit.
4B

East Ridge

From Camp Baksan via Yusengi valley. 5-7h.

Donguz-orun East, East Ridge and North Pillar

Possible to traverse to main summit.
2B . 7-8h from bivouac

North face of Main and East Peaks

Very long and serious mixed routes.
Yusengi valley

Ullu-Tau (Ullutau) (4207m)

summits:
- West (4203m)
- Main (4207m)
- East (4058m)

1903-08

First ascent

L. Rolleston via Garvash Pass and North Ridge.

North face

800m high North face between Mestiyskiy Pass in the east and Garvash Pass on the West has several difficult ice and mixed routes that can be climbed year round.
Base for the routes on northern side is Ullu-Tau Camp (2360m) in Adir-Su valley. From there routes are reached using Cheget or Naumov bivouacs as starting point.

Main, North face "Abalakov"

5B . 800m

1951

First ascent

V.Abalakov

West, North face "Shield"

Most classic climb on Ullu-Tau. Starting point is Cheget bivouac on Ullu-Tau glacier, from there 1h to start of the climb by rock island. Climb 6-10h.
4B (TD-) . 800m. Approach 1h, climb 6-10h.

1946-08

First ascent

D. Gudkov, M. Svesdkin, G. Odnobljudov & M. Tschertkov

East, North face

East Ridge

From Mestiyskaya hut on East Ullu-Tau glacier to Mestiyskaya pass

Main, "Zolotarew"

From Mestiyskaya pass along East Ridge to East Peak.
3A . 7-12h from Mestia Pass to East Peak, traverse to Main Peak 1h.

1938

First ascent

A.Zolotarev

Traverse

From Mestia Pass along normal route to Main Peak. From there traverse to West Peak 6-8h (V).
4A (V)

North Ridge

From the Camp Ullu-tau via Cheget bivouac and Garvash pass (3-5h, possible bivouac).

West, normal route from north

From Garvash pass to West Ridge. Avalanche danger.
2B . 3-4h from Garvash pass.

1903-08

First ascent

T.G. Longstaff & L. Rolleston

Shkhelda (4320m)

summits:
- West 1 (4228m)
- West 2 (4310m)
- Scientists' Peak
- Pik Aristov (4229m)
- Central (4295mm)
- East (4320m)

North face

Mighty steep face with numerous very difficult routes. One of the best-known faces in Caucasus.
Approach to north side climbs is from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley (access from Terskol).

East, Snow Couloir "Garf's Way"

From Skheldinskiy glacier via ice/snow couloir to the saddle on East Ridge. From there along the ridge via Rooster Pinnacle to summit.
5A . 1200m

1949

First ascent

B. Garf

Central, Snow Shovel "Martinov's Way"

From Skheldinskiy glacier via Col between Central Peak and Pik Aristov (4229m).
5B (VI 5.9/5.10) . 1300m

1955

First ascent

V.Martinov

Central, North Face "Subortovich"

On the east side of "Snow Showel".
6A (VI 5.11 A2+) . 1300m

1959

First ascent

B.Subortovich

North Face Original Route

4B (V 5.6/5.7) . 1600m

1950

First ascent

Abalakov and party

North Face

5B (VI 5.9/5.10) . 1200m

1939

First ascent

Chashnikov and party

North Face Left Side

6A (VI 5.10 A2+) . 1300m

First ascent

Astahov,Kolisnik,Koshelenko,Nikitenko & Polohov

Khergiani

5B (VI 5.10/5.11) . 1300m

1959

First ascent

Hergiani and party

The Mirror

6A (VI 5.11 A3) . 1300m

First ascent

Polevoi and party

North Face Original Route "The Little Fish"

1400m . 5B (VI 5.9/5.10)

1956

First ascent

Eliseev and party

North Face

5B (VI 5.9/5.10) . 1400m

1984

First ascent

Baliberdin and party

The Night Before Xmas

5B (VI 5.10) . 1600m

2001

First ascent

Bobok & Koshelenko

North Face to North West Ridge

5B (VI 5.10/5.11 A2) . 1500m

1965

First ascent

Rototaev and party

North West Ridge

A variant to this leaves the ridge in its upper section and slants right above the seracs to the summit crest.
5A (VI 5.8/5.9) . 1500m

1947

First ascent

Abalakov and party

Traverse from West to East

Long and demanding traverse over all Shkhelda summits. Normal route to Shkhelda West 2 via West 1 from the north side - traverse over Scientists' Peak, Pik Aristov (4229m), Central Peak (4295m) and East Peak (4320m) and descent on the north side via Rooster Gendarme, Garf's Notch and broad snow couloir down to Shkhelda glacier.
5B

1940-07-25 - 1940-08-01

First ascent

A.Mazkevitsch, V.Nasarov & P.Sysojev

Lower Donguz-Orun (3760m)

East Ridge

2A . 1 day roundtrip

Nakra-Tau (Nakra) (4277m)

Important peak rising above Donguz-Orun valley and Cheget village. Located next to Donguz-Orun West Peak on caucasus main ridge.

North face

1600m high north face has several big routes. Although easier and safer than routes on neighboring north face of Donguz-Orun West, the face is still plenty hard for most tastes. Lewft Pillar (Abalakov) is considered to be the best route on the face.
Donguz-Orun valley

NW ridge

2B-3A depending on chosen line

Left Pillar "Abalakov"

Cosnsidered to be the best route on the face, classic. Bender considers the route to be comparable in difficulty to Frendo Spur on the north face of Aiguille du Midi (D+).
4B, IV . 12-16h

Right Pillar

4B, III

North Buttress

4A

"Italian couloir"

Kogutai (3821m)

Located on the smaller side ridge branching from Caucasus main ridge at Dionguz-Orun West separating Donguz-Orun and Y4usengi valleys.

Ahksu (3827m)

Little Shkhelda (4140m)

Sportsman's Peak (399m)

Bivouac Peak (3990m)

Trade Union Peak (4110m)

Railway Worker's Peak (3900m)

Bzedukh (4271m)

North Ridge

Gain ridge via long snow couloir (4-5h to the top of couloir). Bivouac in the snow saddle above Great Gendarme. Ridge can be gained on the saddle also directly from Kashkatask glacier (more difficult) or from Bzedukh glacier in Shkhelda valley. 6-8h from saddle to summit.
3B . 1250m, 2 days

SE Ridge

2B . 1250m, 5-6h from Red bivouac

Pik Woolley (3960m)

SW route

1B

Pik Kavkaz (4037m)

Pik Germogenonova (3993m)

West Ridge

2B . 1250m, 6-7h

North Face

Ice face, alternative to much more famous Ullukara and Ullu-Tau north faces. From Steinbock bivouac.
4B, avg. 50°

NE Ridge

NW Ridge

Chegetkara (3770m)

Ullukara (4302m)

SW Ridge from north

3A, IV . 1250m, 10h from Red bivouac, 5-6h from Kashkatash Pass (3730m)

NW Pillar

North face "Austrian route"

Caucasus classic, one of the longest ice routes of the area. Subject to objective danger in lower section. Starting point is bivouac at the base of Chegetkarabashi East Ridge.
4B (TD-?) . 1400m

First ascent

Erich Vanis and party

Free Spain peak (Volnaya Ispania) (4200m)

Bashkara (4241m)

North face

Grade 6

West Ridge (gained via spur)

Easier than North face but harder than South Ridge.

South Ridge and shoulder via Jantugan Pass

3A . 9-10h from Jantugan pass. 3 days from Green hotel.

Bashkara - Gadil - Lekzir-Tau -traverse

Classic ridge traverse, somewhat easier than Shkhelda or Ullu-Tau traverses. From Jantugan Pass to Bahkara via South Ridge. From there traverse to Gadil, down its East Ridge and traverse to and Lekzir-Tau to the south of of Main Ridge. Bivouac right after Gadil summit, above steep rock wall. Comparable to Rochefort Arete (III AD, II) according to Bender (probably meant to be comparable to complete Rochefort Arete including Dome de Rochefort)
4A, III . 2 days roundtrip from Jantugan Pass.

Jantugan (Dzhan-Tugan) (3991m)

Located next to Bashkara on Caucasus main ridge.

Jantugan: Mountain page at SummitPost

North face

Ice face. Easier alternative to Ullu-Tau, Ullukara and Pik Germogenova north faces (all 4B). The actual route avoids very steep final face, climbing it directly bumps the grade quite a bit. According to Bender comparable in difficulty to Dreieselswand on Lenzspitze (D/D+, 57°). Has been skied down.
3B . 6-8h

NW Ridge

Mixed and exposed
3B (AD+) . 6-7h from Green hotel

East Ridge/couloir

Easiest route. May be difficult to get to Jantugan Pass, in this case via Jantugan East Pass (1h longer).
2A . 3h from Jantugan Pass.

Godil (4120m)

Located south of Caucasus main ridge. Usually climbed only as part of Bahkara traverse.

Lekzir-Tau (3764m)

Located south of Caucasus main ridge. Usually climbed only as part of Bahkara traverse.

Gumatchi (3810m)

Easy and accessible peak, routes doable as one day trips from Green Hotel.

Gumatchi: Mountain page at SummitPost

East Ridge

1B . 3-4h from Green bivouac to Gumatchi Pass, from there 2h.

West Ridge

1B . 1 day from Green bivouac.

North Ridge via Jantugan Pass

1B . 1 day from Green bivouac.

Cheget-Tau (4110m)

Located next to Gumatchi.

Lazga (3995m)

Sarikol (4160m)

Mestia-Tau (4130m)

Chatyn (Chatin) (4368m)

summits:
- West (4310m)
- Main (4368m)

North face (Rhombus)

North face, known as "Rhombus", that rises for 500m with average angle of 82° is home to some of the most difficult routes in Caucasus (grade 6)

Main, West Ridge via West Peak

3A

Ushba (4710m)

summits:
- North Peak (4694m)
- Souith Peak (4710m)

1888	First ascent	North Peak, J.G.Cockin & Ulrich Almer from Gul Glacier via great ice couloir (4A, very serious).
1903-07	First ascent	South Peak, A. Schulze, R. Helbling, F. Reichert, O. Schuster & A. Weber via SW Ridge.

North Ridge (Ushba Plateau)

Ushba glacier can be reached from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley via Shkhelda glacier and over the pass on Shkhelda wall (through Ushba ice fall). Ascent takes typically 2 days (13-17h) from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) to Ushba Plateau (4000m, bivouac).

North Peak, NE Ridge

The easiest route, mainly on snow and ice. The route is supposedly technically easier than its grade suggests (3B) but the harder grade is is given due to significant objective risk.
4A (D; 50°, corniced ridge) . From Ushba glacier 700m, 6-9h to summit.

1903-08

First ascent

H. Pfann, L. Distel & G. Leuchs

Ushba North Peak by the North-East Ridge (4696m: Route Guides - Climbing in the Caucasus. Route description at Trip-Zone.com

South Peak, Traverse from North Peak

The easiest ascent on Ushba South from from Ushba Plateau. Follows the normal route of Ushba North (N Ridge, 4A, 6-9h), then traverses to South summit.
5A . From a bivouac on Ushba glacier (4000m), 700m.

1903-08

First ascent

Pfann, L. Distel & G. Leuchs

West face

Ushba glacier can be reached from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) in Adyl-Su valley via Shkhelda glacier and over the pass on Shkhelda wall (through Ushba ice fall). Ascent takes typically 2 days (13-17h) from Camp Shkhelda (2000m) to Ushba Plateau (4000m, bivouac).

North Peak, West Face Direct

Ice route.
5B (SCO V) . 1600m

1986-08

First ascent

M.A. Fowler & A.V. Saunders

North Peak, NW Face "Kolomitsev's Route"

From Ushba glacier on West side (bivouac "Okhotnichi nochiovky"). At first in the couloir leading to col between the summits, then slanting to North Peak.
6A . 1500m

1982

First ascent

V.Kolomitsev

South Peak, "Kustovskiy"

The prestige route of Caucasus on the Pillar of Ushba. From Ushba glacier on West side (bivouac "Okhotnichi nochiovky") to Georgian ledge at the start of the pillar.

1963

First ascent

A.Kustovskiy

South Peak, NW face - NW Rib

5B

South side

South Peak, SW Ridge "Schulze"

From Gul bivouac via Mazeri notch to SW Ridge.
5A

1903-07

First ascent

A. Schulze, R. Helbling, F. Reichert, O. Schuster & A. Weber

Pik Shchurovskiy (Pik Schurovskogo) (4259m)

North face

North Face has routes between 4B (NW Ridge) and 5B with "Khergiani" at 5B (TD+) being probably the most famous (45° steep rock, 400m).

NW Ridge

4B

"Khergiani"

5B (TD+, 45°) . 400m

SE Ridge

2A . 300m, 2-3h from Ushba Plateau

Little Ushba (4320m)

Western route

2B

Jailik (4533m)

SE Ridge

3B

Tiutiu Bashi (4460m)

Yunomkara-Tau (4365m)

Oru-Bashi (4310m)

Adyr-Su Bashi (4370m)

NE Ridge

From Yunum glacier
4A

NW Ridge

3B . 7-9h from Adyr-Su glacier (access 4-5h from Camp Ullu-Tau).

Shkhara (5184m)

summits:
- South (SW) (4350m)
- West (5047m)
- Main (5184m)
- Southeast (4500m)

1888-09

First ascent

J. Cockin, U. Almer & C. Roth via NW Ridge.

Shkhara: Mountain page at SummitPost

North face

Mixed north face rises about 2000m from the base and features several difficult routes.

Gestola (4860m)

Lyalver (4350m)

Dych-Tau (Dychtau) (5198m)

Massive, technically challenging mountain located in Northern massive in Bezengi area.

1888

First ascent

A.F.Mummery & H.Zurfluh via SW Ridge.

Dychtau: Mountain page at SummitPost

Main Peak, North Ridge from West

4B

1888-08

First ascent

J.G.Cockin, W.Holder, H.Woolley, U.Almer & C.Roth

Main Peak, SW Ridge

Caucasus classic. From Austrian Hut.
4B

1888

First ascent

A.F.Mummery & H.Zarfluh

Mummery A.W.: My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.

NE face Central Pillar

Rock fall and avalanche danger.
5B

1954-08

First ascent

V.Abalakov, M.Anufrikov, J.Arkin, V.Buslajev, V.Kisel, I.Lapshenkov, L.Filimanov & V.Tscheredova

East Buttress & North Crest

5B

1983

First ascent

N.Nukhartov

NE Buttress & N Crest "Georgian route"

5B

South Peak, S Buttress

Rock climb
5B

1958-07

First ascent

Mike Harris & Gerge Band

Koshtan-Tau (5151m)

Located in Northern massif in Bezengi area.

1889

First ascent

H. Wooley and party

Koshtan: Mountain page at SummitPost

NE Ridge from west

Predominantly on rock. From Kundium-Mizhingi glacier to NE Ridge between Ptiza (4560m) and ice dome (possible bivouac) and along the ridge to the summit.
4A . 12-15h from Flat Iron bivouac

1929-07

First ascent

W.Merkl, F.Bechtold & W.Raech

North Buttress & NE Ridge

From Kundium-Mizhingi glacier. At first through the couloir between large rock islands. NE Ridge is gained between 2nd and 3rd gerdarmes.
4B

1964

First ascent

E.Mikhalskiy

Main Peak, North Face

From Kundium-Mizhigi glacier via right hand pillar of North Face to West Ridge.
5B

1961-08

First ascent

A.Jimanik, I.Kudinov, E.Sokolovski & V.Schurtivi

Misses-Tau (4427m)

Located in Northern massif in Bezengi area.

1889

First ascent

H. Wooley and party

Misses Tau: Mountain page at SummitPost

South Ridge from west

3A

1931-08

First ascent

A.Germagenov, M.Afanasjev & N.Nikoljev

North Ridge from west

Elegant and logical ice route from Mizhingi glacier.
4B

1951-08

First ascent

A.Ivanishvili, I.Bakradse, A.Kavtaradse, D.Kandesili, W.Kvatshandadse, G.Kiniari & R.Natadse

Pik Sella (4300m)

Located to the south of Mirzhirgi. Because of its location, Pik Sella has a fine panorama to the mighty Bezengi Wall.

First ascent

First ascent by Emmanuelle Sella & party.

North Face

From Sella Glacier.
3A (55°) . 350m

Ice Flank & SW Ridge

From Sella Glacier
3A (50°)

Mount Kazbek (5047m)

6th highest peak in Caucasus (and Europe). Extinct volcano located in the eastern part of Central Caucasus. From meteorological station (3680m) there are two options, either normal route or SE snow and ice gully (3B).

1868

First ascent

Douglas Freshfield, A.W. Moore & C.C. Tucker

Gergeti Glacier

From the village of Kazbegi (1700m) to Observatory meteorologigal station (3680m, 4-6h). From there along Gergeti glacier to summit.
RUS 2A (PD; 35-40° (100m near the summit)) . 6-8h

Caucasus

Western Caucasus

Dombai

Uzunkol

Central Caucasus

Baksan valley (Elbrus area)

Elbrus

Main ridge

Ushba group

Adyr-Su chain

Bezengi area

Bezengi Wall

Northern Massif

Kazbek region